January 2018 by Antique Doll Collector magazine

Antique DOLL Collector January 2018 Vol. 20, No. 12

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An Important Auction of 19th Century Automata, Dolls and Playthings

Saturday and Sunday, January 6 and 7, 2018 at the fashion Island Hotel in Newport Beach, California

ver 500 lots of rare treasures of childhood past, highlighted by a the long-lost collection of Madame X of Texas, with rarities ranging from exceptional automata to the Kaonis Collection of Palmer Cox Brownies, a remarkable collection of early Steiff pieces including Teddy Clown and the complete 9-piece Skittles set, circa 1900, to the extremely rare bejeweled French lady by Rochard, other superb French bébés including the Bébé Huret and a remarkable 30” early portrait bébé by Jumeau with so-called wrap-around eyes. German bisque characters range from the beloved Wendy to solemn-faced Karl, from a collection of more than 100 rare art character models, and collectors will also vie for an important early English wooden doll, early Kathe Kruse dolls, rare variations of mignonettes and all-bisque dolls

the dollmasters

PO Box 151 • Annapolis, Maryland 21404

Facebook.com/TheriaultsDolls

Tel: 410-224-3655, M-F 9AM-5PM EST

Twitter.com/TheriaultsDolls

Fax: 410-224-2515 • www.theriaults.com

Pinterest.com/TheriaultsDolls YouTube.com/TheriaultsDolls Instagram.com/TheriaultsDolls

Go to YouTube.com/TheriaultsDolls to see Florence Theriault’s Video Vignette Series highlighting the automata featured here in action.

To order the auction catalog or to review the many ways to bid at the auction call 410-224-3655 or visit theriaults.com

and splendid French bisque poupées including an important Huret poupée with trousseau. Theriault’s January Marquis doll auctions have become legendary in the doll world, with offerings from important collections that range from the most rare to those in all collecting categories of rarity and value. The January weekend begins with a preview and welcome party on Friday evening, and continues with two full days of fabulous and fun auctions that attract collectors seeking the best of dolls in all price ranges, and seeking community with fellow collectors from around the world. For those who cannot attend, the auction can be watched in its entirety by live video/audio feed via Proxibid. For more information or to order the fabulous 225 page art catalog with award-winning photographs and important descriptions and historical details, visit theriaults.com, email info@theriaults.com, or call 410-224-3655. Absentee, live telephone and live internet bidding are available if you cannot attend. x

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Mary Ann Spinelli Nelling, Inc.

F ine antique dolls and a c c essories BUYING & SELLING QUALITY DOLLS FOR OVER 24 YEARS

Happy New Year

published by the

www.antiquedollcollector.com

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15” Simon Halbig rare 150 character, similar to the K*R family of rare molds, brn. ptd. eyes, completely original costume of Scotland, accompanied by his Scotty dog. $7650.

Publications Director: Lisa Brannock Editor-in-Chief: Gay Bryant Art & Production Director: Lisa Claisse Administration Manager: Lorraine Moricone Social Media Director: Ellen Tsagaris -------------------------------------------------------------------Contributors: Elizabeth Ann Coleman, Lynn Murray, Samy Odin and Andy and Becky Ourant --------------------------------------------------------------------Subscription Manager: Jim Lance --------------------------------------------------------------------Display Advertising: Lisa Brannock 717-517-9217 antiquedoll@gmail.com Classified & Emporium Advertising: Lorraine, email: adcsubs@gmail.com phone: 631-261-4100 Graphic Design: Lisa Claisse, email: adclisa@gmail.com phone: 631-208-7244

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24” Size 11 Tete Jumeau, brn. pw. eyes, cl. mo., silk factory dress, marked Jumeau shoes and body. $4150.

Subscriptions: Send to Antique Doll Collector, P.O. Box 239, Northport, NY 11768. Phone: 1-888-800-2588 or 1-631-261-4100 Subscription Rates: One Year (Twelve Issues) $42.95; Two Years (Twenty-four Issues) $75.95. First class delivery in U.S. add $29 per year. Outside the U.S. add $30 per year. Foreign subscriptions must be paid in U.S. funds. Do not send cash. Credit cards accepted. Antique Doll Collector (ISSN 1096-8474) is published monthly by the Puffin Co., LLC, P.O. Box 239, Northport, NY 11768 Phone: 1-631-261-4100

Postmaster: Send address changes to Antique Doll Collector, P.O. Box 239, Northport, NY 11768.

11” Size 2 Tete Jumeau, bl. pw. eyes, cl. mo., festive antique ruby red silk dress and bonnet, and antique mohair wig. $5400.

Exhibiting: January 27, 2018 – Verdugo Hills Doll Club Show, Glendale Civic Auditorium, Glendale CA

P.O. Box 4327, Burbank CA 91503 • e-mail: nellingdolls@gmail.com Cell: 818-738-4591 Home: 818-562-7839 • Member NADDA and UFDC

Visit us at: www.maspinelli.com

Antique DOLL Collector

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Antique Doll Collector is not responsible for any inaccuracies in advertisers’ content. An unsolicited manuscript must be accompanied by SASE. Antique Doll Collector assumes no responsibility for such material. All rights including translations are reserved by the publisher. Requests for permissions and reprints must be made in writing to Antique Doll Collector. ©2017 by the Puffin Co., LLC.

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Important: We need your old address and your new. The Post Office does not forward magazines. Call 1-888-800-2588 or write to us at: P.O. Box 239, Northport, NY 11768.

January 2018

12/13/17 12:52 PM

The Grovian Doll Museum presents:

Palais Royale A Louise Hedrick & Denise Buese Sewing Workshop March 22-25, 2018

ou are cordially invited to be a part of our annual Spring Sewing Workshop. We are pleased to announce that our popular instructor, Louise Hedrick, has joined forces with the very talented Denise Buese. In this upcoming workshop, Louise will provide the kits for our attendees, while Denise will provide the instruction. Under Denise Buese’s skillful direction, attendees will create a lovely twopiece ensemble to fit the 15” Darlene Lane Huret on a jointed body, featuring a head that was modeled from the antique original in the Grovian Doll Museum’s Collection. The second in a series, the project that attendees will sew is a charming promenade ensemble entitled “Palais Royale”. (From an exclusive to The Grovian Doll Museum silk print.) A limited number of kits will be available for purchase after the event. The workshop will take place inside the spacious home of the Carmel Doll Shop, which is located at 213 Forest Avenue in Pacific Grove, California. (831) 643-1902

Registered Attendees will Receive: u A Thursday evening Welcome Reception with delicious food and drink. u A complete Louise Hedrick kit to create a stylish ensemble for the Darlene Lane Huret. u Three days of personal instruction from the talented costumer, Denise Buese. u Delicious lunches and dinners on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday are also included in the workshop fee. u Special shopping opportunities tailored just for doll costumers. u Private viewing of The Grovian Doll Museum Collection, plus a Sunday morning program.

All of the above for $650. Space is Limited Priority is extended to previous Workshop Registrants www.carmeldollshop.com

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Name / Phone

ORDER FORM

Address City, StatE, Zip

Credit Card Information: Card#

3 Digit Security Code

Exp. Date Signature

Please complete this order form and send with Credit Card information or Check made out to The Grovian Doll Museum. $650. Credit card charges will appear as “Legacy Antiques.” Send to: Carmel Doll Shop, 213 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove, CA 93950

12/11/17 12:28 PM

The Complete Guide to Antique, Vintage and Collectible Dolls January 2018, Volume 20, Number 12

UFDC’s Competitive Exhibition Part 4

The last portion of the 2017 blue ribbon winners, categories include: Paper Doll, Japanese Doll, All Bisque, Half-Doll, Bathing Beauties and more.

Rose Percy, The Doll by Elizabeth Ann Coleman

About The Cover

The beloved Rose Percy, 150 years old, she is an English wax doll, who changed hands at a Sanitary Fair. Famous for her wardrobe, she had a stellar history as a fund-raiser, and now will retire to Carmel Doll Shop in California. Shown with some of her favorite things. Photograph by Michael Canadas and David Robinson.

51 Auction Gallery 50 Emporium 62 Calendar 64 Classified

Moroccan Art Dolls The 1930’s Leather Figures of Gertrude Arnell and her Artisans by Linda Holderbaum

Remembering Dutchie

A Personal Doll Story by Brigid McHugh Jones

by Rhoda Seidenberg Blatt

by Nicki Burley

Nostalgia or Propaganda Souvenir Dolls and the Franco Regime

Fit for an Empress A Jacket Pattern to Fit the 15” Dollspart Huret Body

A Rose Blooms in the Land of Lincoln by Elizabeth Ann Coleman 6

Antique DOLL Collector

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January 2018

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1) Petite 11” Carl Bergner 3-Face – A cabinet gem, glass eyes, signed head, working head and pull cord crier, exquisite original clothes. No cheek scuffs! $1100

3) Extremely Rare Arm Band Jumeau including Exhibition Signed Shoes – A 12” Factory Original example by the hand of Ernestine Jumeau with Red Silk Arm Band and Gold Lettered Signed Shoes and Original Factory Chapeau & Wig! Fully marked head and body in unplayed condition. When will you see another! $8200

2) 24” Magnificent Bru-Era Poupee – an 1860’s Barrois type, flawless quality, with blue PW’s , slight smile, Factory Ornate Wig & Pate w. Ribbons, gorgeous antique Bustle Back Silk Gown with Matching Parasol! Majestic! $3900

(212) 787-7279

4) Factory Original Musical Marotte – A luxurious and rare celluloid example in Ornate Silks with pompoms and Factory Wig, Hat and even the foil Swing Tag! $495

P.O. Box 1410 NY, NY 10023

matrixbymail@gmail.com

Quality Antique Dolls by Mail Return Privilege • Layaways Member UFDC & NADDA

5) 19” Tete Jumeau with Signed Shoes and Golden Jumeau Box – Signed head and body with Stiff Wrists, orig Mint Wig/pate and coil, Closed Mouth, blue PW’s and professionally conserved Original Dress and Hat! $4250

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Two ways to buy great dolls from us...

Becky’s Back Room on

Located in Stoudtburg Village Open by appointment We welcome your visit 8 N. Village Circle P.O. Box 705 Adamstown, PA 19501

View our dolls online at our exclusive shop:

beckysbackroom.rubylane.com New dolls listed every week!

16” Series C wire-eyed Steiner. $4600 20” Kestner 162 lady doll. $1200

7.5” K&R 114 “Gretchen.” Fully-jointed body. $995

Please check out our Ruby Lane shop or call us for details about these dolls.

15.5” Rare S&H 759 dimpled character. $1750

11” Sonneberg #137 “Jumeau-look” $1400

Telephone: 717-484-1200 • Mobile: 610-662-5473 • Email: ourant@me.com

Antique DOLL Collector

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January 2018

12/13/17 12:54 PM

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Lynette Gross

Selling a diverse array of unique and antique dolls Telephone (317) 844-6459 Email LynetteDolls@yahoo.com Visit my online shop open 24 hours, 7 days a week.

Joan & Lynette Antique Dolls joan-lynetteantiquedolls.rubylane.com

Joyce Kekatos joycedolls@aol.com 718-863-0373 or 917-859-2446 I buy dolls and will sell on consignment.

LAYAWAY AVAILABLE • Member UFDC & NADDA Rare Glass Eyed 12” K * R 114 Pouty (Gretchen), immaculate pale bisque, sl. eyes, orig. braided mohair wig, completely FACTORY ORIGINAL 3 pc. costume, woolen skirt & ribbed blouse & jacket, & orig. beret, undies shoes & socks, orig. K * R body, great cabinet size pouty w/RARE glass eyes. ABSOLUTELY ADORABLE!! ONLY..$3975.

14” Early Portrait Jumeau Bebe, perfect pale bisque, pw eyes, long full mohair wig & pate, ant. silk & lace dress, complete orig. undie set & orig. socks & orig. leather shoes w/rosettes, magnificent ant. silk hat & Jumeau necklace, orig. “signed” early 8 ball str. wrist Jumeau body, orig. “head coil” intact. ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS!! SALE PRICE at: only...$6200.

www.grandmasatticdolls.com Look for me on Ruby Lane!

11.5” Sonnenberg, mint pale bisque, pw eyes, beautiful full lips plus her great orig. long mohair wig, silk & lace dress from anti. fabrics, everything else is orig. incl. leather shoes & socks, ant. straw bonnet., orig. Sonnenberg jointed body w/early str. wrists, STUNNING with a French Schmitt face!! This doll is AMAZING!!! $2550.

Antique DOLL Collector

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5” Kestner All Bisque Pouty, perfect pale bisque, sl. eyes & orig. long mohair wig, darling dress adorned w/lace & ribbon from ant. fabrics, on orig. all bisque JDK body, “swivel neck” & desirable “clenched fists” & barefeet., very pouty face. DARLING!! $2700.

8” French Fashion Parasol, all orig. silk and lace, ivory handle & ivory tip with a ring, perfect working mechanism, some splits in silk. Still looks GREAT. Very hard to find & GREAT accessory for your French Fashions or a Bebes. Sale Priced at only....$750.

January 2018

12/13/17 9:15 PM

Rose Percy The Doll

by Elizabeth Ann Coleman

ver one hundred and fifty years ago, when her wax parts were created in England, what was to become the doll “Rose Percy” was recognized internationally as a luxury doll. Dolls with poured wax heads and limbs demanded the highest prices everywhere they were sold. Beyond their life-like appearance and touch, they were seen by consumers as the most appealing with their inserted hair and glass eyes. We do not know which English wax doll maker made Rose, though we know these company’s products were exported to the United States either as whole dolls or wax parts, the body often being made up on arrival. Rose came to New York City where she might have been merchandized by an assortment of toy shops including Liepold, Althof, Bergman & Co., and for her two important possible vendors - Tiffany & Co., and F.A.O. Schwarz. Tiffany’s, an import firm, is a possibility because they sold toys beginning in the 1840s and contributed to Rose’s wardrobe as is the newly founded Schwarz toy shop because other family merchant members were involved with dolls at other Sanitary Fairs.

Antique DOLL Collector

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January 2018

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Most wax dolls of Rose’s period were created and dressed as girls and Rose is no exception. One only needs to take a look at her contemporary cartede-visite image, where she wears a lilac taffeta party dress. Here we see her not as a little girl but as one entering her teens with long flowing blond hair which has been tinted a darker shade to separate it from the background. The garments in her wardrobe confirm her age – she has yet to outgrow slips in favor of petticoats; her dresses are mid-calf not knee or floor length. While nearly all the garments in Rose’s wardrobe were made by the female students of Mrs. Ogden Hoffmann’s school, a few special items are known to have been contributed by others. Because furs demand special construction skills C. G. Gunther, a premier New York furrier, contributed Rose’s wintertime accessories including a unique pair of fur cuffs. And, of course, her Tiffany jewelry, still in its original custom-made boxes, adds sparkle. Just for the basics of her wardrobe as it survives today there are 5 items of headwear; 5 items of footwear; 5-1/2 pair of socks; 5 pairs of drawers; 5 chemises; 5 summer slips: 2 winter slips; 4 nightdresses; 1 dressing gown; 4 outerwear items; and 16 dresses most of which qualify as party wear. All told in her wardrobe

Antique DOLL Collector

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January 2018

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Rose has come down to us with one hundred and seven distinct items, many having multiple parts. Her skating outfit is a perfect example. Not counting undergarments it is composed of fur cap, collar, jacket, muff and cuffs; blouse; skirt; stockings; boots; blades and a bag to hold the blades when Rose is off the ice. At the time of her raffle at New York’s Metropolitan Sanitary Fair in May 1864 Rose and her extensive wardrobe were deemed remarkable for the amount of money she raised. Rose remains remarkable to this day not just for the charitable work she continues to do but also because of the unique breadth and provenances associated with her wardrobe. Exceptionally she is a three-dimensional time capsule fashion model for the year 1864, even down to her face sponge in its rubberized waterproof bag. Rose has not been impervious to the ravages that sometimes afflict wax dolls. Twice it has been recorded that work was done to remedy minor but destructive encounters. While the repairs were skillful for their time, they have left Rose with a slightly different appearance to what she had when photographed in the early 1860s. But shouldn’t we ask ourselves; doesn’t Rose look remarkable for being over one hundred and fifty years old? A girl entering adolescence. A Rose about to bloom. For more information see: Canadas, Michael and Robinson, David, The Remarkable Rose Percy: Duty’s Most Faithful Child, Legacy Productions, Pacific Grove, CA, revised edition 2017.

Antique DOLL Collector

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A Rose Blooms in the Land of Lincoln

An Honor Guard stands in service to Miss Rose Percy and all her possessions.

Brunch souvenir doll created by Darlene Lane, and costumed by the Carmel Doll Shop staff, in tribute to Red Cross workers. 16

Antique DOLL Collector

Rose Percy review.indd 16

by Elizabeth Ann Coleman

oses are enjoyed for their form, beauty, color and scent, and their thorns are to be avoided if possible. The Rose of which I write is unusual for she has re-bloomed over the past ten years thanks to the careful cultivation of masterful impresarios and personal guardians Michael Canadas and David Robinson, proprietors of this Roseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s home turf â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the Grovian Doll Museum in Pacific Grove, California. This Rose is a working Rose, one who over the past decade has traveled to eight destinations across the United States, from the deep south to northern reaches and from coast to coast raising at each destination sizeable amounts in support of veterans organizations and through ancillary events monies for her second in time home, the American Red Cross. Her final on-the-road destination was dead center of the country and brought

January 2018

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A lively and competitive auction was professionally expedited by Rick Martinez, with the assistance of Michael Canadas.

her for the first time in her life to the hometown of the man she championed: Springfield, Illinois and Abraham Lincoln. I think we would all agree a Rose in full bloom is an exceptional sight and our Rose, the doll Rose Percy, was no exception in her final outing before taking a well deserved retirement. Two back-to-back events, held in early September 2017, were sponsored by the ever hard working and generous Carmel Doll and Toy Study Group and were more than capably organized by one of its many talented members, Chairperson Mary Senko. Their efforts, working around Rose and her mandate to help those in need, paid off handsomely. Over a mere two days incredibly generous participants at the event dug deep and bountifully into their pockets and pocketbooks giving Rose a sum in excess of $106,000 dollars to spread among five worthy veterans charities and the American Red Cross. Also in recognition of their support of the event a special contribution was made in honor of President and Mrs. Jimmy Carter to Habitat for Humanity. The weekend began on Friday with a bang-up brunch featuring not one but two amazing historical displays of dolls. One was a tribute to nurses with a thoughtprovoking historical array of dolls dressed in nurse’s uniforms selected from the comprehensive collection of Vickie Kriewall. The other focused on dolls with associations to World War I and the American Red Cross. This was a nice tie-in with the morning’s program on the Red Cross particularly in the Great War delivered by

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Even the food favored the tri-colors.

In honor of Rose Percy the décor featured a theme of red, white and blue. Antique DOLL Collector

January 2018

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Members of the steering committee for the Red Cross Brunch and the Rose Percy event stand front and center, while key contributors include (l-r) Kay Morton, Judy Lloyd, Mary Senko, Michael Canadas, Vickie Kriewall, David Robinson, Jan Rohrmann and Carrie Caldwell.

Lunch time table tops featured not just fine food but amazing center pieces, each an antique doll creatively dressed by the Carmel Doll Shop staff reflecting moments associated with the Civil War or the American Red Cross. Diners not only broke bread but broke auction records in acquiring these very special mementoes.

Attendees came from near and far, including guests from Switzerland, England, and the middle Atlantic states. 18

Antique DOLL Collector

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January 2018

Michael Canadas and harking to the time when Rose’s owner, Bertha Chittenden, was preparing to loan Rose to the American Red Cross. Tie-ins were everywhere at this event, even recalling an earlier one where the limited number of guests had been treated to an early 20th century doll made especially for the American Red Cross. For this event Darlene Lane stepped forward creating a heart-stealing all-bisque charmer who was dressed in a nurse’s uniform, complete with a red cross. The rest of the day was unscheduled and attendees were like bees in search of flowers as they swarmed over downtown Springfield in a quest for all things Lincoln. But as evening came on the lure of food and friendship brought them to a reception where the scent of Rose permeated the room over which she would reign the next day. Rose Percy had begun her working career as a raffle item for the United States Sanitary Commission in New York City in 1864 and at the reception local costumed Soldier’s Aid Society re-enactor ladies manned stalls featuring replicated items that one might have found at any one of the multitude of Sanitary Fairs. They discussed, among other things, some of their now obsolete offerings: pen wipers, house and night caps, reticules, etc. Many of the items whet participant’s curiosity – would Rose Percy already have an example in her possession? Yes, they would find out she did. On her special day Rose stood like girlish royalty on her platform surrounded by items from her wardrobe crafted by the girls from Mrs. Ogden Hoffman’s school, furs donated by Gunther, and her not-to-be-missed jewelry and stationery from Tiffany. She smiled at the donations of recent admirers. Some noted her new hair-do, hair let down in accordance with her recently found carte-de-visite photograph taken at the time of her public debut in 1864. She surveyed a room bedecked in red, white and blue with over twenty luncheon tables. Atop each table was a stunning auction doll dressed in tribute to either the Civil War era or the nursing profession and dedicated to someone who had become special in assisting the remarkable team effort required in a Rose Percy event. Additional special auction items included two quilts, one generously created and donated continued on p. 20

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Gigi’s Dolls & Sherry’s Teddy Bears Inc.

17” 1910-20 Kathe Kruse Boy All Original w/ wrist tag and cardboard attachment from box, beautiful painting, slight fading on front of playsuit $3850.

25” K star R S &H, blue sleep eyes, mohair wig, pierced ears, some crazing on legs, antique clothing $495.

30” 1079 S & H, brown St eyes, HH wig, pierced ears $595. 12.5” Rose O’Neill Scootles wonderful compo, blue painted eyes $195.

33” Bergman Simon & Halbig 14 ½, blue sleep eyes, pierced ears, beautiful body, HH wig $950. Now $675.

18 ¾” Revalo 5 Germany, blue sl eyes, HH wig, vintage clothing 31” 1078 S & H, blue sl eyes, $345. pierced ears, few cheek rubs $395. 13.5” A & M 1894, blue sleep eyes $125.

25” CM Kestner K 14, blue sleep eyes, repainted body w/ some repair, antique clothing, HH wig $1050.

24.5” Kestner 146 K 14, blue sl eyes, brown mohair wig, antique clothing $495.

18” K star R S & H 122 baby, blue sl eyes, mohair wig, pretty coloring $265. 15.5” K star R S & H 126 Toddler, blue sleep eyes, mohair wig $295.

26” S & C Swain & Co. Germany 13, blue sleep eyes, HH wig, antique clothing $445.

8” Alexanders: Alexander-kins in Wendy’s Perky Hairdo #539 1956, BKW $125. Alexander-kins in Wendy in Party Sun Dress #344 1957, BKW $125. Little Genius Baby all original w/baby bottle $110.

25” HH S & H, blue sleep eyes, HH wig, pierced ears, missing 1 finger $325.

German Nodders – All Bisques: 2.5” Chester Gump of Gasoline Alley $75. 3.5” Farina of the Our Gang $195. 2.5” Weezer of the Our Gang, w/ label $150.

Layaw Availa ay ble

24” MOA – Max Oscar Arnold 200 8, blue stat eyes, mohair wig, label on body – Made for G.A. Schwarz, Philadelphia Made in Germany $265. 23” K star R S &H w/ blue sleep eyes, HH wig, repainted body, antique clothing, few cheek rubs, $265.

12.5” S & H 1079, brown sleep eyes, pierced ears $275. 6” Heubach Baby w/ blue intaglio eyes, flocked hair, baby body w/ chipped toe $165. 6” Rare All Bisque K * R Kaiser Baby #892 2, beautiful molding & coloring $595. Now $495. 12 x 10.5 x 8.5” French Baby Buggy by Red $195.

24” Kestner 249, brown sl eyes, red mohair wig, hairline on back, antique coat & hat $445. 4 ¾” Kestner #150 4/0, all bisque w/ brown sleep eyes, mohair wig $165. 4.5” Kestner #130 24, all bisque painted eyes, original mohair wig $165.

10” Alexander Cissette’s: Jacqueline in Yellow MIB w/ wrist tag $285. Cissette all original in Toreador pants $105.

7 ½” Alexander set of Dionne Quint Toddlers redressed, nice compo – crazes on 2 faces $595. 8” Alexander set of 1964 Fischer Quints redressed $195. Klumpe Dolls from Spain w/ tags 11” Doctor w/ saw and bag – some spots $85. 11” Skiing pair Beautiful, fresh and clean $95. 12” Etnic pair in well detailed costumes $95.

6029 N. Northwest Hwy. Chicago, IL 60631 • 773-594-1540 • (800-442-3655 orders only) • Fax 773- 594-1710 Open: Tues., Wed., Sat. 10 a.m. - 5 p.m., Thurs., Fri. 10 a.m. - 6 p.m. Closed Sun. & Mon. Near O’Hare, Park Ridge & Niles

Chicago’s finest selection of Antique, Modern and Collectible Dolls, Barbie, Gene, Alexander, Tonner, Fashion Royalty, Steiff, Dollhouses and Accessories. Member U.F.D.C. & NADDA • Worldwide Shipping • email: questions@gigisdolls.com

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Red Cross Brunch program presenter to the assembled, Michael Canadas with Rachel Hoffman, event presenter to the world via Ruby Lane’s Facebook page.

“Abraham Lincoln” chats with one of his many admirers, Janet Krick.

Just as at the original Sanitary Fairs creative mothers bid fond farewells to their fund raising donations, here Denise Buese parts with yet another fully outfitted Rose daughter, “Elizabeth Rose.” 20

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January 2018

by Kathy Nebel, and the other, the work of Beverly Schiavoni and Judy Lloyd, was signed by President Jimmy Carter and his wife Rosalynn. Outstanding dolls with amazingly outfitted wardrobes were created and donated by Louise Hedrick and Denise Buese. The ladies each made a distinctive statement; the Buese contribution has always been the overthe-top doll and this year’s Elizabeth Rose was no exception adding $12,500 for the charities. Rick and Fritzi Martinez masterminded the staggering auction. Generously contributed and gratefully won raffles and silent auction items emptied more pockets. As if all this was not a shopping opportunity for every taste and pocket, a brilliant array of dealers had also been assembled. But the event was not just about giving and acquiring it was also about learning and nothing other than a Civil War attired guard of honor introduced the audience to an uncanny Abraham Lincoln. Not only did the actor look like the honored President but he also sounded like him in both speech inflection and in words. Topping off activities, insightful Michael Canadas shared with attendees an overview of why a doll, Rose Percy, and a President, Abraham Lincoln came to be associated and what that association has meant over time. Aside from the above, Rose received unexpected support from new avenues: corporate sponsorship. Cindy Bailey of Bailey Trucking provided gratis tickets for attendees to the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum and Rachel Hoffman not only nudged Ruby Lane to offer a generous cash donation, along with gift bags, but she energetically masterminded interviews and coverage through Ruby Lane’s Facebook page thus exposing the excitement and history of Rose to not just a few hundred select souls in one room but a global audience. As the day drew to a close and Rose Percy was lifted down from her perch overlooking a room of color, form, beauty and the lingering scent of fine food, the prick of a thorn was felt. Many had come to rally round the old girl and now she was going into retirement. But as gardeners know the fading of one rose usually heralds the coming of another and so one hopes Rose Percy will one day return to her birthright duty of raising funds for those in need who have served their nation. In the meantime attendees can reminisce over Rose in the liberally expanded and highly informative event souvenir volume authored by Michael Canadas and David Robinson. Our national treasure, our remarkable Rose lets her hair down in it and blossoms.

12/12/17 7:25 PM

& LOWE Connie

Jay

100cm(40”) K*R 117 flirty eyed child. The largest K*R child ever produced this doll has a fully jointed composition body in very fine original condition. The bisque head has no issues, dressed in a fanciful whiter cotton outfit and having an antique brown mohair wig. $2500 OOAK Rotraut Schrott “Binda” black child. This one of a kind doll, made from cernit, is in a seated position, elaborately dressed with a braided hairdo. Originally costing many thousands of dollars she is available for $1000.

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P.O. Box 5206 Lancaster, PA 17606 Call Toll Free 1-888-JAY LOWE or (717) 396-9879 Email: jay.lowe@comcast.net Always Looking to Buy Quality Dolls, Toys, Marklin Doll Carriages or Entire Estates

Buy & Sell With Confidence

Member of UFDC & NADDA

A cabinet sized K*R 116A character toddler child. Overall a nice package and ready for display. $1500 A 23” Simon & Halbig 949 child on an early straight wristed fully jointed composition body. Dressed in a vintage outfit with her original blonde mohair wig. $2400 Incredibly rare “G” Steiner French Bebe. A most desirable and seldom found mold this particular example is without any issues what so ever. Please call for pricing and detailed description.

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AND THE WINNERS ARE…

American or European commercial representing a child Left: Barbara Murphy Below: Carol Noel

Part 4 of the Blue Ribbons awarded at UFDC’s 2017 Competitive Exhibition

PAPER DOLL

It’s Easy To Join UFDC

If you collect dolls, you owe it to yourself to belong to the UFDC! For membership information contact: UFDC, Inc., 10900 North Pomona Ave., Kansas City, MO 64153 Phone 816-891-7040 Fax 816-891-8360 Visit www.ufdc.org

American commercial representing movie stars from the 1940s and 1950s. L-R: Lynn Kublank, Loretta Nardone

JAPANESE DOLL

Gosho Ningyo Kathy Turner Japanese Play Doll Heather Hogan 22

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Japanese Girl’s Day Doll Beverly A. Perham

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ALL BISQUE

French or German

Other than Caucasian Left: Elaine Romberg Above: Suzanne Swanton Right: Suzi Smith

Caucasian, painted eyes Left: Marilyn Dornbush Center: Birdie Dapples Right: Judith Schafer

Caucasian, glass eyes Marilyn Dornbush

Baby, Caucasian, bent limbs L-R: Eleanor McBride, Karen Monahan

ALL BISQUE

Japanese Novelty Doll Set Patricia Bellamy Occupied Japan Judith Schafer

Kewpie Donald Crosby

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Googly Jocelyn Adelaar

Nancy Ann Storybook L-R: Jill Kaar Hanson, Rosie Morrill

ALL BISQUE No Jointing Left: Cynthia Orgeron Center: Judith Schafer Below: Marilyn Dornbush

Walt Disney Characters Heather Hogan

Artist, under 10 inches, including reproductions Above: Barbara Patrick Center: Birdie Dapples Right: Jill Kaar Hanson Artist, under I0 inches, including reproductions, Cathy Hansen only L-R: Nancy J. Lee, Patricia Bellamy 24

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L-R: Carol Bohlman, Margaret Vitale

HALF-DOLL

Bust only with one arm molded to body or returning to body Margaret Hein

Original Factory Assemblage Below: Carrie Falatick Right: Rosie Morrill

Bust only, both arms molded to body or returning to body. L-R: Margaret Hein and Rosie Morrill

BATHING BEAUTIES

Other Than Bisque or China Victoria Christopherson

L-R: Gail Cook, Marilyn Dornbush

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SEWING COMPANION Pre 1930 Marylu Phelan

1930 on L-R: Margaret Vitale, Sharon Eastman

NATIVE AMERICAN

Seminole L-R: Carol Bohlman, Suzanne Swanton

Skookum L-R: Carol Bohlman, Karen Monahan

DOLLHOUSE DOLL

Pre 1940, group Above: Carol Cameron Below: Michael Albanese

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1940 on Top L-R: Deborah Osbach, Loretta Nardone Bottom L-R: Victoria Forbes, Suzanne Swanton

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Moroccan Art Dolls Linda Holderbaum Discovers the 1930’s Leather Figures of Gertrude Arnell and her Artisans

Two Arnall dolls here represent a Riff man and woman. He stands 10-inches and carries a wooden rifle as well as a leather bag over his left shoulder. The lady is 9-inches.

The Riff are a Berber ethnic group of Northwestern Africa, who derive their name from the Rif region in the northern edge of Morocco. Living close to the Iberian Peninsula, communities of Riffian people are found both in northeastern Morocco and southern Spain.

A In this small (2 1/8 by 3 ½-inch) envelope glued to a piece of card board is the folded brochure about the Leather Dolls by Arnall of Tangier. The brochure itself, printed in deep red ink, is 3 ¾ inch by 8 ¼-inches. There is an uncancelled Moroccan stamp on the envelope and a fake cancelation circular stamp that reads: EVERY GENUINE ARNALL PRODUCT IS STAMPED ‘ARNALL’. Around the edge of the stamp it reads: “ARNALL’S MOROCCAN CRAFTSMEN TANGIER.’’

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By Linda Holderbaum

rt produced by the Moroccan leather artisans is well-known throughout the world. Among the items sold to tourists and also imported in the 1930s and 1940s were the amazing leather dolls produced by Arnall’s Moroccan Craftsmen of Tangier. I would not have been aware of the work of Mrs. Gertrude Arnall if I had not found tucked under the robes of one of my Moroccan dolls a small envelope addressed to “My New Owner.” The envelope contained a detailed brochure on the dolls created by Mrs. Arnall and her artisans. The brochure reads: “THE STORY OF THE BACKGROUND OF YOUR MOROCCAN DOLL

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The Riff man and woman wear the same type of loosely woven outfits in natural colors with great attention to detail. She has a lovely face with painted features, short cropped hair and a close fitting hat.

The man’s right hand grips his rifle and you can see in this photo that there is no visible stitching visible on his hands, which have individually detailed fingers.

The man has tied onto his left foot a paper tag which has written in script in brown ink “Riff.”

Much harder to find are Spanish dolls constructed by Arnall’s. This Spanish pair, both 10-inches in height, are in wonderful condition, right down to the tatted stockings the lady wears. This close-up below shows the glued seam line on the lady’s neck. That is the only place a seam can be seen with the remains of glue. The elaborate detail on the lady’s hat includes the delicate pompoms on the sides and back and the sections of tiny black jet seed beads.

“ARNALL’S MOROCCAN CRAFTSMEN”

“This leather doll was hand-made by a special process developed by Mrs. Gertrude Arnall in 1921, when she began making the first dolls ever created in Morocco. Until that time, the making of dolls had been considered a breach of the Koranic law which forbids the making of images. Mrs. Arnall was able to convince the authorities of this Moslem land that no disrespect was intended and that her dolls were neither idolatrous nor representations of any individual. Antique DOLL Collector

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The 8 1/2-inch woman on the right is the doll that had the envelope and pamphlet hidden under her skirt. Inside a small envelope addressed to: My New Owner with a postage stamp and cancelation stamp. “Lady at Home” “A GENUINE MOROCCAN LEATHER DOLL by ARNALL of TANGIER// HAND MADE. The man on the left is 9-inches and represented an older man with gray wool glued to his face. He carries a plain blue leather bag over his left shoulder

This close-up of our “Lady at Home” shows her large brass earrings on each side of her head attached with small pieces of leather. Her face has the slightly molded nose with the indented nostrils that all the dolls seem to have.

This colorfully dressed woman is 8 ½-inches.She is adorned in a purple flowered dress over a light blue and white under-dress. Light pink embroidery edges her dress and also her hat that has pink fabric hanging down in the back. She even has one gold “ring” painted on each hand. 30

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The bottom of page 30 of the 1939 Kimport Catalog is this ad for: “MOROCCAN WOMAN AND WATERCARRIER All the mystery of Morocco is in the veiled woman, swathed in native-woven materials and hidden beneath a large straw hat. The water-carrier is picturesque with his goat-skin bag and tin cup soldered to his belt. Both are entirely made of fine leather in Tangier bazaars and dressed authentically.” The Country Woman and the Water Carrier were offered for sale at 7-inches for $3.95, 8-inches for $4.95, 9-inches for $5.95 and 10-inches for $7.50”

This 9 ½-inch water carrier by Arnall’s is pictured in the 1944 Kimport Catalog. He carries his goat skin bag but is missing the tin cup mentioned in the catalog. He came in four sizes from 7 to 10-inches.

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Morocco is a land of tradition, where styles of dress change very slowly. After many years of close study, Mrs. Arnall evolved some forty “types,” each representative down to the last detail of a living Moroccan type—the poultry merchant, the firewood seller, the Riffian woman, the gentleman dressed for town, and so on. This class of work cannot be done by merely taking a celluloid doll and clothing it in “Oriental” clothes. Such a doll may be all very well for a child to play with but it can be of no interest to collectors or museums, nor should it be called a “Moroccan” doll. Mrs. Arnall and her Moroccan workers meticulously studied the details of the clothing of the living originals; true-to-life quality is the reason for the sustained demand for Arnall’s dolls by museums, collectors and those who value serious, painstaking work. The Arnall tradition is now upheld by Ira Marsh (Mrs. B. A. Marsh) who, after years of study, assumed control of the Craftsmen on Mrs. Arnall’s death. Mrs. Marsh is as much a perfectionist as Mrs. Arnall was; she exercises the same strict supervision of every stage of creation of these unique leather dolls. You should cherish your Arnall doll, for it was made with loving care. There is no other doll in the world exactly like it, although each doll is true to type, every face is hand-painted on the individually-moulded leather and there are minor This 9-inch couple was purchased as a pair and probably originally sold together. They both have numerous layers of clothing. The lady has simple but elegant light blue embroidery trim on her veil and just below the waist of her skirt. The man has a thread tassel on the back of his hooded cape. The man has a hand written mark on the bottom of his left foot: “ARNALL TANGIER” and on the right foot: “ TOWN GENTLEMAN.” The doll on the left is a Country Woman created by Arnall’s. Nine-inches tall, she is pictured in the 1944 Kimport catalog and has a cloth “Kimport//Dolls//INDEPENDENCE, MO// THIS DOLL//WAS MADE IN//MOROCCO” sewn to the back inside of her skirt. On the right is another Country woman not created by Arnall’s. She has a wonderfully expressive face and carries a baby on her back—just peeking over her shoulder. She has stitched hands and feet. The sewn hands are stitched on one side—the leather is folded over so only one side needs to be stitched. The individual fingers are less detailed than the Arnall dolls.

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Assembled here are a few other non-Arnall produced dolls. They range in size from the 10-inch man in the back to the smaller 7-inch ladies in the front. The lady in the front right is probably another Country Woman that is missing her large straw hat.

differences of construction in every body. Arnall’s Moroccan Craftsmen have no batteries of sewing machines; they use no presses. The cloth is cut with scissors, the stitches are sewn by hand, everybody is individually assembled. We hope that your doll will give you pleasure for many years; you will always be able to show it with pride, even to the greatest expert, as a real Moroccan Type. “ The pamphlet goes on to illustrate a history of Morocco. It ends with the address: “ARNALL’S MOROCCAN CRAFTSMEN, 17, Imm Sidia, 54, Blvd. Pasteur, Tangier, MOROCCO.” Why I never noticed this envelope before I will never know but it made me take a hard look at the construction of all the Moroccan leather dolls in my collection. And taking that closer look I truly marveled at the technique used by Mrs. Arnall-- you really cannot see a seam in the leather. 32

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Leather dolls from Morocco were offered for sale by Kimport Dolls and I am sure other distributors as well. Moroccan dolls are pictured in the 1939 and 1944 Kimport catalogs—whether made by the Arnall artisans is not know with the exception of one Arnall doll here that does have a Kimport label. Commonly found varieties include the water sellers—many have a wire stand that runs from one foot to the other and are not of the nice quality of the Arnall dolls. And of course, there are many of the riders on their camels—common souvenirs from the area. Take a close look at your Moroccan dolls. Those not produced by Mrs. Arnall’s craftsmen is obvious. There seems to be no visible difference in the construction of the heads but the stitching on the hands and arms is very apparent. As always, if you have any additional information to share, please feel free to contact me at dolldetective@gmail.com.

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Costumed by Annick Phillips

Mademoiselle Chantelle Barrois welcomes 2018!!

The top doll offered for sale in the 1939 Kimport “Foreign Folk Dolls” catalog is a Moroccan Riff soldier. “A MOROCCAN RIFF Proud we are to offer you such a distinguished man about town (Tangiers) and the surrounding desert, as Abd-erRahman. His handsome head, and limbs, are fashioned of goat’s skin, a material in which the Moroccans are master craftsmen. His great enveloping outer garment is homespun, tassel trimmed, with a huge hood—protection in a sandstorm. Rahman has the handsome liquid eyes of the shiek, the unshaven chin as Mohammed decreed, and the haughty mien of his warrior progenitors… Direct from the Bazaars of Barbary.” He came in for sizes: 7-inches Riff Soldier for $3.95, 8-inches for $ 4.95, 9-inches for $5.95 and 10-inches for $7.50.”

Pattern for this lovely suit made by Annick is available at Dollspart.

1-800-336-3655

www.dollspart.com

The Tender Years Deborah Varner 303-475-3274 queenbeev1@comcast.net • Member UFDC

Layaways welcomed and consignments taken. Time to spend your Christmas money!!

5-1/2” Mint all orig. all bisque French mignonette.BL glass eyes. Lg. lips Rare orig. sheepskin wig. Rare heeled blue boots. Perfect bisque. Peg strung. Orig. coat dress. Orig. undergarments. Hard to find. Be the one to get her at this reduced price. $ 1,200.

Simon and Halbig 102. All bisque. Open mouth with teeth. All orig. Aqua dress with matching hat.Blonde mohair wig. Over the knee black stockings with rare brown Mary Janes. Purchased from the Merry Merrit Doll Museum. $ 1,150.

In 1944 Kimport offered in their Foreign Folk Dolls catalog: “SPANISH MOROCCANS From sprawling, noisy Tangier we have wonderful Moroccan leather dolls that came across the Atlantic before all shipping space was commandeered. The leather work is remarkable on these eight to ten inch dolls; one scans a bare arm or leg ‘round and around to discover the join. The types are widely assorted—Muslims, holy fanatics, midwives, picturesque tribesmen and wily tradesmen. They are a cosmopolitan group, with gypsies predominating, seconded by Spanish dancers over from the Continent. We can assemble a balanced group of six assorted types, wonderful for exhibits, at $40.00 special. No. 100—Gypsy Man No. 100A—Gypsy Woman No. 101—Entertainer (Man) $7.50 each No. 101A—Dancer Other Types—each $ 7.50”

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See me on RubyLane.com

14” Fabulous bathing doll. Rarer than most due to the white body and pink head and neck. Desired Fawn colored,bush strokes on hairlines. Brushed curls as well. Fired beauty mark adds rarity. Blue eyes. Both hands fisted. Bare feet. A beauty. $ 475.

www .thetenderyears.net Antique DOLL Collector

January 2018

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r Showcase... e l a e D

Come see us at the Naples Doll Club Annual Doll Show and Sale! January 19 and 20, 2018 at New Hope Event Center, 7675 Davis Blvd., Naples, FL 34104

The Naples Doll Club 2018 Annual Doll Show and Sale Friday, January 19, 2018 Noon to 5pm Saturday, January 20, 2018 10am to 4pm

To be held at: New Hope Event Center 7675 Davis Blvd., Naples, FL 34104

Nancy McCray c 319-651-6440

Nlmccray@q.com hm 319-363-3936

Fritzi’s Antique Dolls Fritzi’s cell# 630-247-1144 Rick’s cell# 630-247-1219 fritzisantiquedolls@comcast.net

Admission: Both Days $8 Saturday Only $5 Children Under 12 $3 (proceeds benefit local charities) Doll Appraisals $5 per doll For Dealer/Travel Info contact Myrna Eby mydolls_2@yahoo.com General Information Contact Wendy Mitchell 239-530-0010 THE BEST IN DOLLS AND DOLL RELATED ITEMS!

Phil May - Antiques & Collectables 732-604-3011 dollmanofog@aol.com

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McHugh’s Dolls, Richmond, VA Mchughsdollstoys@aol.com 804-938-6749

Alan Scott Pate Antique Japanese Dolls www.antiquejapanesedolls.com 858-775-6717

Valerie Fogel’s Beautiful Bébés 425-765-4010 www.bebesatticfinds.rubylane.com

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Nostalgia or Propaganda

Souvenir Dolls and the Franco Regime By Rhoda Seidenberg

All photographs are by D. M. Seidenberg, unless stated otherwise.

Francisco de Goya, Self-Portrait, ©Castres – musée Goya, musée d’art hispanique

This Roldan doll bears a resemblance to Goya as seen in self-portrait. The doll wears a brocade jacket and knicker that the painter would have worn. He also holds palette and paintbrush.

any travelers have, in the past, encountered dolls made for the tourist trade. Most of these dolls were cheaply made of plastic and dressed in regional costumes. Travelers to Spain during the 1950s and 1960s encountered these plastic dolls, but others remembered their travels by taking home well-made cloth dolls manufactured by Klumpe, Roldan, Nistis and Layna, also in regional dress. These companies, centered in Barcelona, made dolls in the 40s during the Franco dictatorship. Also, Marin Chiclana made sophisticated plastic souvenir dolls depicting Spanish regional dress in this period. The Spanish Propaganda department of the time wanted to show a happy, proud, and united Spain to the Western countries. Images of Spaniards in regional dress were dominant themes of Propaganda machine. Is there a relationship between these dolls and the political regime? Were the dolls used as propaganda or just as reminders of a trip to Spain? This article will look at the relationship between these dolls and the political climate in Spain the mid-20th century.

Francisco de Goya y Lucientes. La Tauromaquia, Pedro Romero killing the halted bull. 1816, Permission of Meadows Museum, SMU, 36

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Overview of the Political climate in Spain during the Franco Regime Like most of Western Europe, Spain was once a mighty empire. She has had territories in the Americas, the Pacific and the Netherlands, Belgium, and North Africa. Revolutions saw Spain lose the Netherlands in the 17th century, then the Americas and the Pacific regions after the Spanish-American War. After World War I, the instability of European monarchies led to civil conflicts in Italy, Germany, and Spain. When the dust settled, Mussolini became the dictator of Italy, Hitler of Germany, and Franco of Spain. All three Trajes de luces or suits of light would dazzle in the afternoon sun. These matador suits were probably ornaments for a bull fight aficionado. countries embraced Fascism, though Spain under Franco didn’t espouse the same strain of Fascism as Nazi Germany. Spain under Franco, like Germany under Hitler, used visual imagery of the simple folk--namely people from small towns and farmers – in their propaganda. These people seemed to represent the roots of their civilizations. Spain reached back to the 18th century to images produced by artists such as Francisco de Goya. Goya was the painter of the royal court, and he also depicted the horrors of Spain’s conflict with France. Reproductions of Goya’s paintings and prints appeared in political journals and newspapers and were used by both sides of the Spanish conflict. In addition to his famous depiction of the executions of Spaniards in the “Third of May 1808,” Goya’s images of bullfights and common folk were used by Franco to soften foreign public opinion, which was swayed by Pablo Picasso’s contemporary depiction of the viciousness of the attacks on the Spanish town of Guernica. Franco’s goal was two-fold: convince the world that his government was stable and content, and convince his people of the same by glorifying the Spanish national identity. National pride in Regional Dress starts with the Bullfight One cannot think of Spain without thoughts of bullfights. Known as la fiesta brava in Spanish, bullfighting probably has its origins in Roman venatio, where gladiators fought animals in arenas. Moors changed the sport from wild and disorderly to the spectacle seen today. The bulls are taunted by picadors,sometimes on horseback, then the creature meets with the matador, whose name means killer. Watching bullfights are not just for the rich, it was and is a Spanish national pastime.

The Roldan Maja doll, two pages on, is dressed like Goya’s Duchess of Alba, seen above: A102 Hispanic Society of America.

Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida, Vision of Spain, Castilla, A1813, Hispanic Society of America.

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The Nistis couple are typical Andalusian dancers.

The Klumpe flamenca from Seville is in a white lace dress. 38

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Francisco Goya created a series of aquatints depicting bullfighting called the La Tauromaquia in 1815. These prints presented an historical depiction of bullfighting in Spain from the Moorish period to the 19th century. Goya’s careful rendering of the bullfighter’s attire is closely followed today. Picadors wore silver embroidery and the matador wore gold. Their suits are called trajes de luces or suits of light that would dazzle in the afternoon sun. Bullfighters’ suits are thought to come from the majos, lower class Spanish males, typically depicted wearing tight-fitting short jackets and knickers, black hairnets, topped with a broadbrimmed hat. Such men had a female equivalent called a maja, who wore lacy gowns, held coquettish fans. Their hair would pulled into a bun with a comb and wrapped in a mantilla. This Roldan maja wears a long gown with lace trim. Her hair is pulled back with a high comb and mantilla. Even though many of these majas were courtesans, upper-class women like the Duchess of Alba was depicted this way by Goya. Regional Spanish culture and costumes were on Franco’s propaganda agenda. Early 20th century artists such as painter, Joaquin Sorolla, and photographer, Jose Ortiz Echagüe created depictions of folk costumes worn by the simple peasants. Spaniards were shown in regional festival dress, enhancing the concept of Spanish national heritage. Costumes were rich in regional cultural history, which varied in dialect and mores. Sorolla was an impressionist artist popular in Spain and Europe in the early part of the 20th century. He was a genius at capturing slices of ordinary life with a palette rich in color and light. He was commissioned to paint a panoramic view of Spain by the Hispanic Society of America. His “Vision of Spain” depicted different provinces of Spain, detailing festivals and pageantries of each region. Even though Sorolla died before the Fascist regime, Franco appropriated the folk culture to his advantage. This idea of a united Spain is what Franco wanted to show the world, who knew of his harsh treatments his subjects. Sorolla’s works were painted before the Spanish Civil war, but they probably served as an This Klumpe lady from inspiration for Ortiz Echague’s Cordoba is dressed as a bullfighter, though photographs. He would create she is not wearing the a photo journal of Spain in his traditional traje de luces. epic, Espana: Tipos y Trajes (Spain:

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Jaime Fernandez Pimentel, statue of El Cenachero. Bronze, 1963.

Klumpe fish seller’s costume and posture harken back to the statue of El Cenachero.

People and Costumes); publishing 12 editions from 1953 to 1973. The early editions were mostly black and white photos. Even so, the photographs still retained the textures of Sorolla’s paintings. In both Sorolla’s paintings and Ortiz-Echague’s photos people were dressed and posed for the resulting images. Costumes and customs of Spanish regional culture were also depicted on postcards, postage stamps, and even dolls. At first glance Spanish cloth dolls made in Barcelona, namely, Klumpe, Roldan and Nistis, are just caricatures, in silly postures - dolls dressed as sports characters, cooks, thieves, and posh ladies. Regional dolls are often over-looked by collectors and cultural historians, but the costumes on these dolls show a meticulous attention to detail. We will now look at how the dolls’ outfits match back to Sorolla’s paintings, Ortiz Echagüe’s photographs, even to silk-embroidered postcards with somewhat kitschy versions of Spanish costumes, made for the tourist trade. We will discuss each region much like a travel guide beginning in southern Spain, then proceeding in a counter-clockwise direction and terminate in Madrid. The most familiar image of Spain, besides bullfighters, is flamenco dancers. Flamenco has its origins in the southern region of Andalucia,

This silk-embroidered postcard made by an artist named Elsy Gumier depicts a children’s version of El Cenachero.

which include the towns of Seville, Cordoba, and Malaga to name a few. The Nistis couple shown are typical Andalusian dancers. She is wearing a red dress decorated with white polka-dots called traje de lunares. The Spanish word, luna means the moon; lunares suggests luminary bodies like stars, so the dress is ornamented with “stars.” The sleeves and the skirt portion of the dress are layers of ruffles. Her hair is pulled back and topped with a red comb, called peineta and a fabric flower. Standing slightly behind her with his foot on the chair is a guitarist dressed in tight pants, white shirt, and a wide brimmed hat called a cordabés. The Flamenco costume derives from the majo, which was the mode in 19th century Spain. These Klumpe ladies represent Seville and Cordoba. The flamenca from Seville is dressed in a white lace dressed presented in tiers of ruffles. She wears highheeled felt shoes. Her head is flung back as is wrapped up in her dance. The lady from Cordoba is dressed as a bullfighter, though she is not wearing the traditional traje de luces. Along the southeastern coast of Spain within Andalucia is the town of Malaga. This coastal town was known for its fishing industry. Featured in the town square is a statue celebrating the Malagan fish Antique DOLL Collector

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Joaquin Sorolla. Vision of Spain, Extremadura, A1813, Hispanic Society of America. Detail of Women wearing gorra.

Jose OrtizEchagüe. Photograph of women from Extremadura. Espana: Tipos y Trajes.

This Roldan doll is dressed in the costume of Extremadura. No detail was neglected, especially the gorra.

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seller, better known as El Cenachero. The bronze sculpture was created by Jaime Fernandez Pimentel. The image of the Cenachero was recreated in this Klumpe fish seller. His costume and posture harken back to the statue. The doll wears a broadbrimmed hat, cut-off pants, and white shirt. He evens balances two pans made to look like the cenacho baskets holding that day’s fresh catch of fish. The silk-embroidered postcard made by an artist named Elsy Gumier also depicts this iconic figure. It is interesting to note that the postcard, statue, and doll was made in the mid-twentieth century during Franco’s dictatorship. Toward the western border of Spain near Portugal, is Extremadura, Caceres. Extremadura served as winter pasture for the region’s sheep, prized for their fleece and skins. In Sorolla’s depiction of Extremadura, he features women wearing their unique hat called a gorra. The hat is made of straw and decorated with ribbons, felt flowers, and pearl buttons. The addition of a small mirror to the front of the hat means that the lady is not married. The woman near the horse, has her arms akimbo, which is said to be the typical posture of women from this region. Ortiz-Echagüe’s photograph features a woman with one hand on her hip. The Roldan doll dressed in the costume of Extremadura is one the finest examples of any doll that I have seen dressed in this costume. The artisan who crafted the doll was very familiar with the dress of this region. She stands with hands akimbo, much like Sorolla’s lady. She wears a heavy wool dress, trimmed with grosgrain ribbons. A caplet composed of ribbon is crossed over the bodice. Even the gorra is very similar with the exception of the material. The doll’s hat is felt festooned with felt flowers and sequins. The regions of Castile and Leon were once the seat of the ancient Spanish kingdom. Within these regions are the towns of Segovia, Salamanca, and Lagatera (Toledo). These towns are known for their elaborate, jewelry and embroidery. The costumes of this regions are centered on life cycle events and religious festivals. Segovia is an ancient town. Once a major Roman center, the remains of an aqueduct is a focal point of the city. Also important, religious pageantry. During Holy Week and the Feast of St. Agatha, a woman is elected to “mayor” of the town. She is called the Alcadesa (female mayor). The title is an honorific with no real governmental power, but the alcadesa looks regal. Sorolla places the alcadesa in the crowd at the cattle market. What distinguishes her from others in the crowd is her miter-shaped hat. It is decorated with embroidery and has six

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Elsy Gumier postcard also presents a kitschy version of Segovian couple.

Sorolla places the alcadesa in the crowd at the cattle market. Detail from Vision of Spain, Castilla, A1813, Hispanic Society of America.

cones on each side, called the twelve apostles. The top of the hat is festooned with pompoms. The Klumpe Alcadesa shows the full outfit. She wears a red skirt with black and gold accent embroidery and black bolero. A lace shawl comes from under her hat and wraps around her shoulders. The hat, minus the twelve apostles, is topped with a frayed red and green pompom. She holds a scepter which is the symbol of her office. The Elsy Gumier postcard also presents a kitschy version of this Segovian lady. Salamanca is another ancient town in this region. The most elaborate costume here is the bridal dress, which is not white. I have not found an example of a doll dressed in the bridal outfit. This might be because of the amount of metal for the amulets might make such a doll too heavy. These Klumpe ladies are example of matrons from the region. The embroidery is outstanding in both. Lagartera, located in Toledo, is our last stop in Castile and Leon. The womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s costumes are more interesting than their male counterparts. Sorolla presents the people of Lagartera along with those of Salamanca and Segovia. The young ladies carrying loaves of bread are from Lagartera. They wear three layers of skirts called guardapies and with a mandil (an apron) on topâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;each one with heavy embroidery and sequins. The women wear special wool socks, also heavily embroidered, called medias. Their chest is covered in gold jewelry. Some of the women wear a simple headscarf. These Nistis ladies wear the regional costume of Lagartera. One of the ladies wears highly embellished socks called the medias. Both wear lots of necklaces and chockers called gargantillas. Counter-clockwise to the far north is Galicia. The region got its name from the Roman, who found aboriginal Celtic tribes living there. The Galician dialect is very different from Castilian Spanish,

The dress of this Klumpe lady from Salamanca is a work of art. The use of gold and silver threads really sets this doll apart from other souvenir dolls.

Klumpe lady from Salamanca wears a red skirt with rich embroidery. Even the front of her apron is embroidered. Antique DOLL Collector

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Sorolla presents the people of Lagartera along with those of Salamanca and Segovia. Vision of Spain, Castilla, A1815, Hispanic Society of America.

Nistis lady wears the regional costume of Lagartera. Both these ladies wear lots of jewelry. This Nistis lady in costume from Lagartera wears highly embellished socks called the medias. 42

Antique DOLL Collector

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probably because it is a blend of Roman Latin and Gaelic. It is still a place of pilgrimage for Catholics going to Santiago de Compostela—a place of miracles. In addition to pilgrimages, Galicia was a source of beef for the Spanish peninsula. Sorolla chose a cattle market scene in his vision. One figure is conspicuous in the scene. A lone Galician bagpiper adds musical accompaniment. Unlike Irish or Scottish counterpart the Galician bagpipe, called a gaita galega, is a single drone. Besides the gaita, the other unique feature is tricorne hat called a monteira. The Klumpe Galician piper is dressed like Sorolla’s piper. His black monteira slumps slightly forward with red and green pompoms. Yellow, green, and white pompoms hang from his pipes. He is attired in a black vest over a white shirt and black breeches. His boots are covered by black gaiters. This Klumpe doll is dressed as an Asturian shepherd. Asturias is the province just to the left of Galicia. Like Galicia, Asturias is a region that breeds livestock. His outfit is similar to the Galician piper with the exception of the crossstitch embroidery on his vest and breeches and his hat. Cataluña is the province closest to France. The region is home to the Catalan language–a dialect very different from Castilian. Barcelona, a major city in the region, was the site of a decisive battle in the Spanish Civil War. It fell to Franco’s right-wing Nationalists in 1931. It is ironic that twenty years later, Barcelona would produce dolls that would become mid-century ambassadors for Franco’s Spain. This Roldan Shepherd wears the garb of the Catalonian man during festival time. He is wearing a

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This Klumpe Galician piper resembles Sorolla’s piper. Roldan Shepherd wearing the garb of the Catalonian man.

Klumpe doll is dressed as an Asturian shepherd.

velvet short jacket with matching short trousers over long white socks and shoes called alpargatos, made of hemp and cotton straps. These shoes are the progenitor of the modern espadrilles. They are also called espartos. The outfit is topped with a red beret called a barretina. To the south of Cataluña is Valencia of oranges and paella fame. Its warm climate and abundant seafood make it a favorite with tourists. Like matadors and flamenco dancers, the costume of the Valencian woman is familiar to foreign visitors. Ortiz-Echagüe’s photograph of a smiling Valenciana is captured by the artisan who created this Layna doll, a company known for its sexy ladies. She is dressed like a queen in floral brocade gown, pearl necklace and striped sash. Like the woman in the photograph, the doll wears an ornate peineta, engraved in high relief, tucked into her elaborate hairdo. The Valencian lady would be accompanied by a male counterpart. This Klumpe Valencian singer is dressed in traditional festival garb. He Antique DOLL Collector

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Layna Doll of Valencian Woman; notice the intricacy of her peineta is similar to woman in photograph.

Roldan doll in costume from Tenerife 44

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Jose Ortiz-Echague, Valencian Woman, from Espana: Tipos y Trajes.

Cancelled Spanish stamp postcard representing Santa Cruz de Tenerife.

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Franco’s Moorish Guards.

Moorish Guard, no. 823.

wears a yellow satin jacket over matching knee trousers. Like the Barcelonan shepherd he wears esparto shoes. A woven scarf with dangling pompoms, called a manta is draped over his shoulders. His matching yellow cap, the cofia, is trimmed with a tassel. Outside of the Iberian Peninsula are two island groups: one in the Mediterranean, the other in the Atlantic. The Canary Islands is a mixture of Moorish and European Spanish culture. Tenerife is one of the main islands. Like other women’s costumes we have discussed, the ladies from Tenerife wears layers of clothing. This canceled postcard depicts a lady wearing a multicolored skirt, revealing a white petticoat, topped with a small white apron. A red weskit is worn over a short-sleeved blouse. She wears a short-brimmed straw hat over a red scarf. The Roldan lady is similarly dressed in the striped skirt under a black pinafore apron. The red scarf is more prominent and has a more fashionable flair. The last stop on this journey of regional Spanish costumes is Madrid, the capital, and the Donaty Moorish Guard. I didn’t fully understand why this doll was included in the Donaty catalogue until I saw a photograph of Moorish guards wearing similar attire in front of Franco’s palace in Madrid. Why Moorish Guards? Franco was stationed in

Morocco early in his military career. He found the North African Corps to be fierce and loyal. When he came to power he commissioned these soldiers to be his personal guard. According to the Donaty catalogue, tourists to Madrid would see these guards as a familiar sight. The Donaty guard wears a red and white turban, a red tunic cinched with a white waistband, loose white short trousers tucked into white boots. His cape is red revealing a white lining. He holds a staff or spear. This Donaty doll inspired the article. It became clear that there might be more to these Spanish tourist dolls that meets the eye. Many cultural historians have written about Franco’s keen use of imagery, particularly the image of Spanish peasants, during his regime. This article may be one of the first to look beyond the visual arts to the decorative arts. There has not been a study on how tourist dolls can be used in foreign affairs, so to speak. Dolls made in midcentury Spain seem to be a mix between a souvenir and an ambassador for Franco’s regime. The similarity of costumes is evident on silk-embroidered postcards, which were also made for the tourist trade. The intricacy of the dolls’ embellishment can’t be dismissed as coincidental. It would make sense that these Spanish regional dolls fit within the mechanism of Franco’s regime. Antique DOLL Collector

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Remembering Dutchie A Personal Doll Story by Brigid McHugh Jones

rowing up there were always dolls around. They were either being repaired by my mother Louise McHugh or being sold by her. I loved my dolls and loved to play with them. I can recall spending hours playing with my Suzanne Gibson doll, aptly named Baby Brigid, or my Cowboy Barbie that winked when you pressed the button in her back, and we won’t even discuss the hunt and obsession for Cabbage Patch dolls. Where did my love of dolls come from? My mother. But where did her love of dolls come from? That answer is easy and complex at the same time, but at the end of the day it lies with Aunt Hattie and Dutchie. Great Aunt Hattie was a Victorian woman who never married and by the time my mother Louise was born in 1936 she was already 69 years old. As my mother grew, Aunt Hattie would take the bus from the Spinster’s Home and she would come and spend time with my mother.

Louise as a little girl, on the porch with Dutchie

My mom holding her doll Dutchie. 48

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Aunt Hattie taught my mother how to sew and have tea parties. She was multitalented and had a lovely hand at painting but sewing was her true gift. The Christmas my mother turned three she received Dutchie who was a handmade cloth doll dressed like a Dutch girl and created by Aunt Hattie. Dutchie was my mother’s daily play-with doll. In an era when money was tight and the Great Depression was still strong in everyone’s memories, Dutchie was a repeated present: Aunt Hattie would take Dutchie back and she would reappear under the Christmas tree with a new face and all new wardrobe.

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Close up of Dutchie

My mother would play with her for hours and her love and attachment to Dutchie is why we all love dolls and want to see them go to a home where they will be cherished. Every doll has a unique story, we are lucky to be a part of Dutchieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and she still has a special place in our home. She gives me a connection to a fascinating woman that I never knew and whose memory we cherish by looking at a painted face on an old cloth doll.

Harriet Powell, Aunt Hattie

Brigid-Mom.indd 49

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Call 215-794-8164 or email alloyddolls@gmail.com. Member UFDC and NADDA. Other dolls and photos may be seen at RubyLane.com/shops/anntiquedolls.

15 inches of elegant beauty, circa 1886 Petite, Rabery and Delphieu’s cabinet size beauty. She has perfect luminescent bisque and coloring. A fetching dimpled chin and exquisite brown paperweight eyes. Her precious antique broach says darling, and darling is what she is. Her vintage clothing is superb! Original boots, the dress of ashes of rose taffeta, is trimmed in old ecru lace which is repeated on her straw bonnet. $4700.

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AUCTION GALLERY

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Paris Bebe by Danel & Cie

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Gaulthier with French borzoi dog, great original sac duvoage and French table with accessories.

rasher’s catalogued March 25, 2018 auction in Kansas City, Missouri titled “Fascination” is an event following the annual NADDA doll show. The auction features the estate doll collection of Carol Musulin of Villa Park, California. Highlights include: Jumeau, Steiner, Gaulthier, Petit and Dumoutier, Bru, Johanny, Danel & Cie, Rohmer, Barrois, Gaulthier, Sonneberg, Belton, Kammer and Reinhardt, Gebruder Heubach, Kestner, Handwerck, Simon Halbig, two early poured wax dolls of superb quality and a delightful group of mask-face googlies in original costume. A generous assortment of doll accessory items English poured wax doll in original including doll clothing, bonnets, shoes, wooden box with handwritten provenance indicating the doll was made by the doll jewelry and accessories. maker to Queen Victoria, circa 1854. To be held at the Four-Points Sheraton Hotel, 11832 Plaza Circle, Kansas City, Missouri. Preview 9 a.m. Auction 10 a.m. Hotel Reservations: 816-464-2345. Written, telephoned, faxed, or live bidding available. Live internet bidding available at liveauctioneers.com. More information or to order a catalog phone Frasher’s at 816-625-3786 or approximately three weeks prior to auction day, you may view the full auction at liveauctioneers.com.

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January 2018

12/12/17 7:07 PM

Fit for an Empress A Jacket Pattern to Fit the 15” Dollspart Huret Body by Nicki Burley

All photos by Nicki Burley, doll from collection of Nicki Burley

he Empress Eugenie led the fashionable world during the glittery Second Empire: a glorious moment when Paris was transformed by splendid buildings, parks, and boulevards cut through the old, dark districts. The world turned eager eyes to the transformed City of Lights, and “Paris” became synonymous with both craftsmanship and style. Tourists stopped there on their Grand Tours, millions visited the Exhibitions, and everyone wanted to bring something home. Royal patronage had long been used to boost economies, and industries still flourished or sank based on what was stylish at the French court. The Emperor once convinced Eugenie to wear a gown of Lyons silk, which she thought looked like curtains. Once they saw her in it, buyers eagerly sought the heavy striped material, bolstering the French silk market. Luxury houses still known today were established in her time: Louis Vuitton was her personal box maker, and Guerlain’s career was launched by the scent Eau de Cologne Imperiale, supposedly created to cure Eugenie’s headaches. Another perfumer, Creed, actually moved its London location of 100 years to Paris in 1854 just to serve the Empress at her request. Sometimes criticized for her huge and costly wardrobe, Eugenie’s usual style was reportedly so simple that Napoleon made fun of it, though everything she wore was of the best cut and quality. She chose subdued gowns in shades of grey or blue for day wear and saved the truly exquisite, shoulder-baring creations for evening. These gowns can hardly be imagined today…at one ball, Pauline Metternich described the Empress wearing “a white gown spangled with silver and dressed with her most beautiful diamonds. She had carelessly thrown over her shoulders a sort of burnous of white embroidered with gold.”

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Every court appearance required a new dress; repeating an ensemble was an offense which banned the wearer from the next evening’s ball. This led to storage areas so full of gowns that Eugenie gave many away to her ladies and sold others yearly by special invitation. In an era when society ladies changed their dresses several times a day for everything from visiting to luncheons and walking on the boulevard, grand events required even grander wardrobes. Before traveling to the opening of the Suez Canal, Eugenie ordered 100 gowns from Worth, who had become her exclusive designer. Together, Eugenie and Worth made fashion decisions for the world. While they didn’t invent the cage crinoline, Eugenie’s influence made it popular. French women’s enormous skirts first caused a sensation in 1855, when Napoleon and Eugenie visited the comparatively dowdy English court. Once the crinoline had its day, Eugenie led the trend toward bustles with yet another Worth gown. It seemed everything Eugenie wore became fashionable; if her dress was blue, a new color was named for it, and her interest in Marie Antoinette led to a revival of Louis XVI styles. Magazines called paletots “Empress” and labeled hairstyles “a la Imperatrice,” guaranteeing their popularity. Whether or not Eugenie actually wore anything they pictured mattered far less than the association with her. This “Empress Jacket” pattern, modeled by a Darlene Lane Huret, was first published in an 1865 issue of the American women’s periodical Peterson’s Magazine. Peterson’s was available from 1842 to 1898. It was a direct competitor of the Godey’s Lady’s Book in many ways, offering the same types of sentimental stories, recipes, and fashion advice, but costing substantially less—subscribers paid just $2 per year, rather than $3! The magazine also hired a female editor and encouraged contributions by women, but never matched Godey’s

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Sarah Josepha Hale, who edited and influenced women’s issues for 40 years. Peterson’s patterns, simplified versions of fashion plate styles, were printed as line drawings with measurements given along the side of each pattern piece. Readers were expected to enlarge the patterns themselves, then adjust as needed to fit the wearer, requiring a degree of tailoring skill generally alien to modern seamstresses. Intended for wear over a skirt and collared chemisette or a separate guimpe and sleeve set, this long jacket has wide, somewhat short coat-style sleeves to reveal the whitework beneath. It also features a belted waistcoat, which is attached at the side seams and flares open over the skirt. Because this was a pattern for real people, it teaches some interesting lessons about historical fit: shoulders were thrown back quite far, and the shoulder line is long and low. The center and side back seaming creates the appearance of an extremely narrow waist, aided by the jacket skirt flaring out into a full half circle of fabric. Dressing in separates was popular and economical, as different jackets, belts, and blouses could be worn with a few—comparatively expensive—skirts to extend their wear from season to season or even over several years. Some skirts also had a matching bodice made of the same material to create an evening dress. Peterson’s suggested that this “early fall” jacket be made up in silk, trimmed with Chantilly lace and beads. Lightweight taffeta, lined in cotton lawn, works up well in doll size as there is little bulk, but it would be equally attractive in very light wool or a cotton print for other seasons.

Materials

¼ yd jacket silk tissue taffeta

1/8 yd vest silk tissue taffeta ¼ yd cotton lawn lining

1-3/4 yd scallop edge trim ½” wide 1 yd lace insertion trim ½” wide

Size 3 crochet thread or other cord 6” velvet ribbon 3/8” wide

General Notes

1) Make a muslin to check fit over all undergarments, including skirt, prior to cutting expensive fabric. 2) Jacket is entirely handsewn to reduce bulk and make small adjustments in fit, but could be sewn by machine. 3) Hold lining together with silk unless stated otherwise. 4) Sleeves will slip over chemisette more easily if the linings are cut from taffeta rather than lawn. 5) Photocopy pattern pieces onto cardstock, then draw around each with a fine marking pen. Cut just inside the line. Carefully mark placement of darts, belt, sleeve seam, and false pocket tab. Pocket tab can be lined, or its edges can simply be pressed under. Seams are ¼” throughout. 6) Also cut the following pieces: From lining—7” x ¾” bias From jacket silk—14” x ¾” bias

Making the Jacket Vest

Sew lining darts and silk fabric darts separately. Press silk darts toward the center, and lining darts toward the side seams. This will reduce bulk when the pieces are held together. Sew lining to vest, right sides together, along the front edge. Turn right side out and press flat. Baste vest together along all other edges. Cut velvet ribbon in two 3” pieces, then stitch into place on the vest sides under the armscyes.

Jacket Front

Place lining and jacket fronts right sides together. Stitch along the neck edge and down the curved front. Clip the curves, then turn and press flat. Baste along loose edges.

Supplies

Matching thread

Fine marking pen (sample: Clover’s white pen) Clear nail polish Lint roller

Hemostats

Metal buckle to fit ribbon 4 hooks

Seed beads (sample used #00081 Mill Hill “Jet” color) 4 size “E” beads (sample used black) 54

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Lining the jacket front

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Jacket Body

Begin assembling jacket with the two center back pieces. Holding lining together with silk jacket fabric, sew the center back seam. Press the seam open and overcast the edges. Baste the free edges of this piece if the fabrics tend to slip. The center back is now one piece. Make small clips along the deep curve of each unsewn side of the center back. Stretch this edge out gently to fit edge D-E of the side back pieces. Pin in place, then sew. Press each seam toward the center back, then overcast edges together. Baste free edges of the side backs if needed.

Stretching side back seams to fit before sewing

In the next step, you will be sewing three layers together along edge A-B. The vest is caught into the side seams of the jacket body, so you don’t need to create a separate back for it. Layer the pieces in this order: jacket back, right side up; jacket front, lining side up; vest, lining side up. Line up the pieces at the armscye edge, because the jacket front is about ¼” shorter at the neck. Sew shoulder seams, then press open and overcast each edge.

Sew side seams through all three layers. Notice that the jacket front is also about ¼” shorter than the other pieces at the lower edge. To prevent the layers from slipping, baste the front and vest together first along the side seam and armscye, then pin and sew through all thicknesses. Sewing side seams through all layers

Sleeves

The sleeves are corded at the armscye, but this is an optional step. To make the piping, press the 14” strip of bias cut silk in half lengthwise. Lay 16” of cording (size 3 crochet thread works well for this) down the center, then pinch together and sew a large running stitch as close to the cording as possible. Cut this piece in half so that each sleeve has 7” of piping. Trim the piping edge down if needed so that there is ¼” of fabric next to the stitched cord.

Making piping for corded sleeve seam

Sewing shoulder seams; jacket front is shorter than other pieces Antique DOLL Collector

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Lay out the 8 sleeve pieces (4 each of main fabric and lining) to make sure you create right and left sleeves, then work with one sleeve at a time. First, sew the linings together at the inside seam, then press open. Do the same for the main fabric. Place the sleeve and lining right sides together, then sew at the cuff edge. Open the pieces out and press the seam back toward the main fabric—It will look like one long sleeve at this point.

Make the sleeve into a long tube by placing the right sides together along the back seam, then sew. Press seam open. With hemostats, turn sleeve right side out and slip lining up into the sleeve. Baste lining to sleeve along the top edge. Test fit sleeve into the armscye, then sew securely into place. Trim and overcast the raw edge. Press seam toward sleeve.

Sleeve pinned right sides together to sew along outside (back) seam

Binding

Sleeves and linings matched and sewn along inside (front) seam

Press and curve the piping with a steam iron to match the shape of the sleeve’s top edge. Pin and baste the piping in place onto the main fabric piece. Sew scallop edge trim to the cuff edge of the main fabric piece. If trim ravels, place a dot of clear nail polish at each end. Place straight edge of trim at cuff, with scallops facing up the arm. Sew a seed bead to the crest of each scallop.

Press down ¼” along the long side of the bias lining strip, then press back ¼” on each short edge. Steam the strip into a curve. This is the “wrong” side of the strip. Place the strip onto the jacket neck (vest and center back) right sides together. Sew in place, trim the seam, then turn the strip to the inside and hem down the pressed edge.

Binding the neck

Sleeve sewn at cuff and turned back. Cuff trim and cording sewn into place 56

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Bind the lower edge of the jacket with insertion lace, which works well on curved hems. Steam the lace into a curve and turn back ¼” before applying it to the hemline. Sew the lace to the right side of the jacket, about ¼” above the edge. Turn back and press the hem. Pin into place, pulling threads in the lace heading to draw it up into a nice curve. Slipstitch hem in place, being careful to catch just the lining in your stitches.

Jacket Trimming

Line pocket tabs or sharply press back ¼” all around. Raw edges can be sealed with clear nail polish, Fray Check, or a glue/water mixture. Begin by sewing scallop trim down the jacket front, with scallops facing the jacket opening. Dab trim ends with a fray product as needed. Scallops should meet the edge, but not extend over it. Sew in place along the straight edge of the trim. Continue the trim around the curved front and about 1” past the side seam, then angle up sharply toward the pocket tab placement. It helps to draw a line with your marking pen for trim placement as there is no edge to follow at this point. On the sample jacket, the trim crossed the side seam about 2-3/4” up from the lower edge and about 2-1/2” down from the armscye. Slip the pocket tab under the end of the scallop trim and sew in place. (Photo 10)

Pocket tab pinned into place beneath end of jacket trim Lace binding sewn onto lower edge of front

Lace binding turned to back and hemmed to lining Antique DOLL Collector

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Front of Empress Jacket in “Eugenie blue,” reduced 80% to fit a 12” doll. Trim is 3/8” cotton lace.

Mark the trim placement on the center back of the jacket, then sew trim with its straight edge on the line. The pattern looks like an upside-down letter “V.” Bead all the trim: sew a seed bead at the crest of each scallop, which also helps to anchor the scalloped edge to the fabric. Sew one seed bead at each corner of the pocket tab. At the back, place three beads at the top of the “V.”

Closures

Close the jacket front with a hook and thread loop at the neck edge. The jacket just meets at this edge. Close the vest with three hooks and thread loops. Place the first hook at the neck edge, then each hook 1” down. The vest fronts overlap ¼”. Sew four “E” size beads as false buttons down the front over the hook and loop closure. If you have questions or would like the pattern for the crochet toque hat, please contact the author at rosewrendolls@gmail.com. Original pattern illustration from Peterson’s Magazine for the Empress Jacket. It was called “the most fashionable affair, which has come out for early Fall wear, from Paris” in 1865, a year which also marked the end of the American Civil War.

Back of jacket, showing beaded trim 58

Antique DOLL Collector

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Belt

Vest 2 Fabric 2 Lining

Antique DOLL Collector

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Upper Sleeve 2 Fabric 2 Lining

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Center Back 2 Fabric 2 Lining

Under Sleeve 2 Fabric 2 Lining

Antique DOLL Collector

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Sleeve Seam

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January 2018

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Gaithersburg Antiques Doll Show

Hundreds of Selling Tables…

June 2&3 The 174th Eastern National Antique to Modern Doll & *Toy Show 2017 Established 1972

Calendar of Events Send in your Free Calendar Listing to: Antique Doll Collector, c/o Calendar, P.O. Box 239, Northport, New York 11768 or Email: adcsubs@gmail.com If you plan on attending a show, please call the number to verify the date and location as they may change.

ONGOING

10/21‑4/8/18 ~ Switzerland. The Storp Collection Exhibition ‑ from antiquity to present day. Toy Worlds Museum Basle. 11/18/17‑2/11/18 ~ Switzerland. “Edible” Christmas Tree Decorations Exhibition. Basel Toy Museum.

JANUARY 2018

6‑7 ~ Newport Beach, CA. Marquis Auction. The Island Hotel. Theriault’s. 800‑638‑0422. www.theriaults.com 6‑7 ~ San Diego, CA. Al Bahr Shriner Center. Crossroads. Dorothy Drake. 775‑348‑7713. www.crossroadsshows.com

The Antique Doll & Toy Market Sunday, February 11, 2018 11am-4pm $7

Seattle’s Best Show for 39 Years!

• 50 Select Exhibitors • Antique & Collectable Dolls • Toys • Teddy Bears • Miniatures • Accessories • Doll Stringing • Free Parking • Restaurant & Much More!

Admission $10 Good 2 Days

Save $2 on one ticket with a copy of this ad. Email us for Coupons and Maps

The Fairgrounds

16 Chestnut St. Gaithersburg, MD 20877 Building 6 / 4 Exhibit Halls / Air Conditioned and Heated

12 Miles North West of Washington DC (I‑270) Exit 10 to red light, turn left, follow fairgrounds signs. Hotels: HOLIDAY INN 301.948.8900 HILTON 301.977.8900 Ask for special rates for Bellman Doll Show. Book hotel 30 days before each show

3 International Airports Ronald Reagan Washington National (DCA) Dulles International (IAD) Baltimore / Washington International (BWI)

Bellman Events 410.357.8451 • 443.617.3590 InfoDOLLS@comcast.net *LIMITED Number of Toys and Games

Antique DOLL Collector

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Red Lion Bellevue Inn, 11211 Main St., Bellevue WA 98004 I-405 Exit 12 SE 8th St, West on SE 8th, Rt at 112th Inquires: Lisa Pepin 206-362-8723 pepins4@msn.com 2202 NE 171st ST, Shoreline, WA. 98155 Our next show will be August 27, 2017

Edison Talking Dolls Wanted Any Condition Doug Burnett Music Museum

816‑210‑3684 Edisondoll@yahoo.com

7 ~ Hauppauge, NY. Doll & Teddy Bear Show. Radisson Hotel. Patchogue Doll Fanciers Club. Deb Karshick. 631‑654‑9184. 18‑21 ~ Pacific Grove, CA. The Grovian Doll Museum presents A Sheryl Williams Sewing Workshop. 831‑643‑1902. www.carmeldollshop.com

19‑20 ~ Naples, FL. Doll Show. New Hope Event Center. Wendy Mitchell. 239‑530‑0010. Myrna Eby. mydolls_2@ yahoo.com. www.NaplesDollClub.com

20 ~ Chandler, AZ. Doll Show. St. Katherine Greek Orthodox Center. Julia. 661‑492‑1324. Mary. 505‑379‑4534. 25‑26 ~ Newark, OH. Doll Auction. McMasters Harris Doll Auction Co. Mark Harris. 470‑877‑5357. mark@ mcmastersharris.com

27 ~ Clackamas, OR. Doll Show. Monarch Hotel. Crossroads. Dorothy Drake. www.crossroadsshows.com 27 ~ Glendale, CA. Doll Show. Glendale Civic Auditorium. Verdugo Hills Doll Club. Dene Alcott. 818‑248‑4862.

27 ~ Lake Worth, FL. Doll Show. St. Luke’s Catholic Church. Gold Coast & Sunshine Doll Clubs. Margaret. 561‑406‑5179. Donna. 561‑965‑9460. 27 ~ Palm Springs, FL. Doll & Bear Show. St. Luke Catholic church. The Gold Coast Doll Study Club and Sunshine Doll Club of Florida. 561‑965‑9460. 561‑406‑5179.

28 ~ Naperville, IL. Doll Show. Naperville Marriott Hotel. Karla Moreland Presents. 815‑356‑6125. www. NapervilleDollShow.com.

FEBRUARY 2018

3 ~ Leesburg, FL. Doll & Teddy Bear Show. Leesburg Community Bldg, Venetian Gardens. Orange Blossom & Hills and Lakes Doll Collectors Club. 3 ~ Westampton, NJ. Antique & Vintage Doll Auction. Crescent Shrine. Sweetbriar Auctions. Dorothy Hunt. 410‑275‑2213. www.SweetbriarAuctions.com

4 ~ Santa Ana, CA. Doll, Teddy Bear & Miniature Show. Elks Lodge. Rowbear & Friends Presents. 530‑366‑5169. 10 ~ Ft. Myers, FL. Doll & Teddy Bear Show. Araba Temple. Ft. Myers Doll Club and Cape Coral Doll Guild. Marilia. 239‑540‑8628. Sharon. 239‑267‑1483. magicofdolls@gmail.com

10 ~ Schertz, TX. Doll Show. Schertz Civic Center. Dorothy Meredith. 830‑606‑5868. dmeredith@dolldr.com 11 ~ Bellevue, WA. Doll Show. Red Lion Hotel. Antique Doll & Toy Market. Lisa Pepin. 206‑362‑8723.

17 ~ St. Petersburg, FL. Doll & Bear Show. Minnreg. Building. St. Petersburg Doll Club. Ilene Delk. 727‑347‑7556.

24 ~ Roseville, CA. Doll Show. Placer County Fairgrounds. Crossroads. Dorothy Drake. 775‑348‑7713. www.crossroadsshows.com 25 ~ Strongsville, OH. Doll & Bear Show. Holiday Inn. Gail Lemmon. 440‑396‑5386.

To find more doll events near you go to our website at www.antiquedollcollector.com and click on “Events” tab. Also, sign up on our email list to have the most up to date info on upcoming events. Just email adclisa@gmail.com with the subject line “sign me up for doll events.”

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The Doll Works Judith Armitstead (781) 334‑5577 P.O. Box 195, Lynnfield, MA 01940

106 W. Main St., Carlisle, KY 40311 859‑289‑3344 Open Wednesday, Thursday, Friday 11-4 Open by appointment at other times, call 859-707-6123

Evans and Cartwright Table c.1830

Please visit our website for a fine selection of antique dolls, dollhouse dolls, dollhouse miniatures, teddy bears, all bisque dolls, bathing beauties, kewpies, dresser boxes, snow babies, half dolls, and doll accessories at …

www.TheDollWorks.net

The Cape Coral Doll Guild and Fort Myers Doll Club present their annual

Something To Sing About!

Doll Show and Sale Saturday, February 10, 2018

Visit us at www.kydollandtoymuseum.com Like us on Facebook at ky doll and toy museum

Sara Bernstein’s Dolls

10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. It will be held at the ARABA TEMPLE, 2010 Hanson St., Fort Myers, Florida

For the serious collector as well as the casual observer this is a “must see” show for 2017. Admission is $4 for adults, children 10 and under are free. This Doll Show and Sale is your source for both the needs of the collector and the doll artist. Sales tables will feature antique to modern dolls and toys, doll clothing, furniture, supplies, lace, ribbon and fabric. Contacts: Marilia (239)540-8628 or Sharon (239)267-1483 email: magicofdolls@gmail.com

Come check us out for a variety of Antique Dolls, Vintage Dolls and lots more! Shop for all your gift giving needs - we aim to make our shop a One Stop Shopping place. Shop with confidence - UFDC Member; Articles published in Antique Doll Collector. Contact: Laura at

etsy.com/shop/Something2SingAbout

10 Sami Court, Englishtown, NJ 07726 Ph. 732‑536‑4101 Email: santiqbebe@aol.com www.rubylane.com/shops/sarabernsteindolls

Your Ad Here CLASSIFIED ADS

We can convert color to black and white

Black and White ad

1/9 Page (3-3/8” h x 2-3/8” w) $50

Full Color Photo Ads

1/9 Page (3-3/8” h x 2-3/8” w) $75 Please include payment with your ad. Call for current deadline dates. Larger ads are considered display ads — call us for information.

888‑800‑2588 or 631-261-4100 Antique Doll Collector, P.O. Box 239, Northport, NY 11768 64

Antique DOLL Collector

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January 2018

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Valerie Fogel’s

Beautiful Bébés Fine Dolls and Precious Playthings of the Past Tel: 425.765.4010 Beautifulbebes@outlook.com For excellent service contact Beautiful Bebes when Selling or Consigning!

www.bebesatticfinds.rubylane.com

Always Buying. Trades, Consignments, Sales and Estate.

28” Sie C Steiner in original capelet and matching dress, French styled bonnet with wax flowers, leather shoes, antique wig. Excellent bisque and body with original finish. $7800~

Lily by Lavalee Peronne of Nuremberg. Deluxe model with exquisite face, articulated kid/ wood body, carved wooden legs and feet, original wig over cork pate, and superb original white pique two pc. ensemble, matched undergarments, Huret styled leather boots. $13,800~

3” Steiff Bear cinnamon color with button & cutest face! $625 Sale!

Beautiful 26” E12J in spectacular frock and matching bonnet. Wonderful condition! Sale! $7800~

Tiny 9.25” Bru Jne 1with tiny China Doll. Bru shoes, original wig, antique silk fabric Parisian Bebe ensemble. Excellent Condition! Layaway Offered! Please Call~

Member UFDC & NADDA Tiny 10” F2G Block Letter with wardrobe including Pagoda Parasol and extra wig. SALE! $7200~

12” Bebe Jumeau in antique bebe frock , orig Jumeau blue earrings, original wig... Excellent! $4950

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So RARE! Flirty Eye Bebe Jumeau with incredible wig, Mariner costume, marked Jumeau. Only made for very short time~ c. 1883-1884 $9500

12/14/17 4:00 PM

Theriault’s Fourth Annual Marquis Doll Auction in Naples, Florida

Saturday & Sunday, March 17-18, 2018 A t t h e H y a t t R e g e n c y C o c o n u t P o i n t R e s o r t & Spa

The important two day Marquis auction features both famous and long-lost collections including Part II of Samy Odin’s Musée de la Poupée in Paris, now closed forever; an outstanding private collection of rare French poupées, bébés and automata; and the extraordinary Myla Perkins Collection of Leo Moss dolls (three of which are shown here) as featured in her book, Black Dolls. More details will be forthcoming in the next month.

For auction information call us at 410-224-3655. the dollmasters

PO Box 151 • Annapolis, Maryland 21404

Facebook.com/TheriaultsDolls

Tel: 410-224-3655, M-F 9AM-5PM EST

Twitter.com/TheriaultsDolls

Fax: 410-224-2515 • www.theriaults.com

Pinterest.com/TheriaultsDolls YouTube.com/TheriaultsDolls Instagram.com/TheriaultsDolls