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VACATION & TRAVEL A N
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MAY 4 - 10, 2016
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Views of Cliff Walk
A Nautical And Guilded-Age
Visit To Newport, RI BY TAB HAUSER specialsections@antonmediagroup.com
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The nautical and gilded-age town of Newport, RI, is an easy three-and-a-half hour drive on I-95 for most residents of Nassau County. For a weekend away, Newport offers many things to do along with plenty of good restaurants. We recently spent two fun nights near the
center of it all at the Newport Marina and Hotel and could not have had a better visit. Newport was founded in 1639 as a place of religious freedom and immediately became a center of commerce from the mid-1600s. It is rich in colonial history, and its architecture shows when strolling by the many homes dating back to the colonial and post-colonial
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time. In fact, Newport claims to have the highest number of surviving colonial buildings of any city in the United States. Its dark history includes being an important part of the “triangle trade” that bought and sold slaves, sugar and rum. During that time, many slaves were traded here, and the city had 22 rum stills. Among other things, piracy was practiced here in its early days, and
during Prohibition there was much rum-running because of all the hidden little coves in the area. After settling down, we walked three blocks north to the Newport Discovery Center. This place should be your first stop, as everything you need to see and do can be explained at the information booth and many attraction tickets can
see NEWPORT on page 4C
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VACATION & TRAVEL • MAY 4 - 10, 2016
be purchased here. At the discovery center, we boarded the Newport Travel Tours trolley to get acclimated to the city. We picked this company because the open windows on the trolley allowed better viewing and photos. This tour took us all around Newport and out on the scenic 10-mile drive. Here, we viewed the 28-room Hammersmith Farm mansion that President and Jackie Kennedy were married in. During our tour, the driver frequently stopped to tell us the history of what we were seeing. He also discussed some of the prominent families of the area, as well as their clubs where only the “right” names could become members. On Bellevue Avenue, we made short stops at a few of the cottages for a quick look or to let passengers off. Our guide ended the nearly two-hour tour passing the historical section. Arriving back from the tour, we strolled Bowen’s Wharf next to our dock bustling with people going in and out of the shops and restaurants. After a snack here, we walked over to Sayer’s Wharf to catch the sunset sail with 12 Meters Charters. Here we boarded a 1970 America’s Cup-style race boat named the Heritage. Guests on board can help raise the sails and take turns at the wheel. Seating on board is basic. The idea here is to experience
of their backyard and the ocean. The more mellow experience on the water, Classic Cruises of Newport offers tours trail is nearly flat and relatively easy all day on an old rumrunner or a classic to walk on with the exception of some schooner.) Our sail was an exhilarating areas near the end that have you walk experience, giving us a small taste of on rocks that are uneven. what a race boat feels like. Coming back Cliff Walk ends on Bellevue Avenue. to the bay, our captain raced and beat From here we walked back toward the another 12-meter boat to the entrance. Breakers, stopping at three cottages. Dinner that night was at the Speakeasy The first one was called Rough Point, on America’s Cup Avenue, where there last owned by Doris Duke (as in were plenty of good choices for my Duke University and the Doris Duke non-seafood dining wife. We found the Foundation). This 39,000-square foot food there very Tudor-style house good and reasonwas completed in IF YOU GO: ably priced with a 1892 for Fredrick w ww.discovernewport.org lively atmosphere. Vanderbilt and is for complete information on Our next day one of the more all that’s new www.12metercharters.com had us on a full moderate “cotfor a experience under schedule starting tages” we visited. the sail out on the R67 bus The Duke family www.newporthotel.com for $2 from the bought the house for dock or room reservations discovery center to in 1922 and it is www.newportmansions.org the Breakers manknown locally as for complete information on sion. We picked the Doris Duke touring the cottages this stop because House because www.newporthistorytours.org it let us off on the she inherited for walking tours Cliff Walk. Cliff it. Here a tour Walk has been said guide gives you to be one top 100 walks in the United a history of the family and then takes States. It is designated a National you through the house that is filled with Recreational Trail in a National Historic Duke’s furniture and personal effects. District. If you start at the beginning it This house also has some modern art is 3.5 miles one way but starting at the displayed and for sale. It ends with a Breakers shaves off a mile. The trail brief film on her and life and charities. goes along the water’s edge which is Marble House was our next stop. It behind all the mansions of the area. was completed in 1892 for Mr. and Mrs. William K. Vanderbilt and designed by Richard Hunt to look like the Petit Trianon at Versailles. The cost of the house was reported at $11 million, of which $7 million was spent on 500,000 cubic feet of marble. This would be the equivalent of more than $270 million in today’s dollars. Part of the cost included the intricate hand designs on all the ceilings. Upon its
Harbor full of boats
P u(For b lthose i s hwho e dwant b ya A n t o n M e d i a G r o u p a race boat. This puts you directly between the end KARL V. ANTON, JR. Publisher, 1984–2000 ANGELA SUSAN ANTON Editor and Publisher FRANK A. VIRGA President STEVE MOSCO Senior Managing Editor CHRISTY HINKO Managing Editor, Special Sections ALEX NUÑEZ Art Director KAREN MENGEL Director of Production IRIS PICONE Operations Manager SHARI EGNASKO Executive Assistant JOY DIDONATO Circulation Director
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completion, Vanderbilt gave the house to his wife as a 39th birthday present. It has 50 rooms and a staff of 36 to run it. Marble House was important to Newport because it was the first cottage to transform Newport from less formal wooden structures to the legendary over-the-top stone palaces. The grounds have a Chinese tea house on the water’s edge above the Cliff Walk. Walking further down the street we visited The Breakers which is the grandest of the cottages. In 1895 Cornelius Vanderbilt II became Chairman and President of the New York Central Railroad and purchased a wooden house called The Breakers in Newport. After the house burned down he also commissioned Hunt to design a 70-room Italian Renaissance-style palazzo inspired by the 16th-century palaces of Genoa and Turin. This house is 125,339-square feet and looks palatial when walking up to it. Gladys, their daughter, inherited The Breakers on her mother’s death in 1934. As a supporter of The Preservation Society of Newport County, she opened The Breakers in 1948 to raise funds for the Society. In 1972, the Preservation Society purchased the house from her heirs with the condition that members of the Vanderbilt family can use the third floor when they wish. The style, room count and what the house offered for the summer season was an amazing show of wealth. Tours of both Marble House and the Breakers are done by hand-held audio player and take about 45 minutes to one hour depending on how detailed you wish to get. In both audio guides there were clips of life by
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Admiral Fitzroy Inn
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a friendly Inn right in the heart of Newport
Inside the Marble House
The Admiral Fitzroy Inn Bed & Breakfast is conveniently located in the heart of Newport’s bustling waterfront district with rooms decorated and furnished in a distinctive fashion to please the eye and lift the spirits. Go to our website for our Special Spring Packages.
398 Thames Street, Newport, RI 02840
866-848-8780 admiralfitzroy.com
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and chips, stuffed clams, Portuguese stew and fried whole belly clams. For nighttime entertainment, boaters can usually find music at one of the clubs near the docks. For our last morning we decided to stroll around the historic district, visit the Touro Synagogue and take a historical walking tour of the area. As mentioned earlier, Newport claims to have the largest collection of colonial homes in Newport. Many of these were saved by a grant from the Doris Duke Foundation. Walking these back streets we saw many homes with signs dating back to the mid 1700s to early 1800s. At our visit to the Touro Synagogue we learned how President Washington issued an important letter regarding religious freedom to the oldest Jewish house of worship in the United States. For those that like to take walking tours, Newport History Tours offers different ones on different days. For help planning this trip contact tab@tabhauser.com or see his travel web site at www.tabhauser.com.
Make the
NEWPORT VISITOR CENTER
your first stop for area maps, brochures, event and attraction tickets, lodging and dining reservations.
Open 7 days a week. 23 America’s Cup Avenue, Newport, RI 800.326.6030 401.845.9130 FREE WIFI
The Breakers from Cliff Walk
DiscoverNewport.org
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the family or servants. All three tours talked about the life and times of the Gilded-Age and made it clear that money was to be shown and flaunted. That meant to see and be seen. It was said that women would change up to seven times a day to show the latest fashions. Men would occupy their days with sailing, golf or other sports. Lavish dinners were also a must to throw or get an invitation to. It was here that marriage-age children would also be decided on because “marrying up” or to the right family was considered very important. After our three cottages we hopped on the R67 for the ride back to town. We stopped for a quick view of the grass tennis courts at the Tennis Hall of Fame before walking on Thames Street to do a little shopping. Dinner that night was near the marina at The Landing, where we dined outdoors on panko-coated fish
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VACATION & TRAVEL • MAY 4 - 10, 2016 ANTON MEDIA GROUP
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Great Ocean Liners: 1900-1940 On view April 2nd - October 2nd, 2016 Open daily 11:30am - 3:30pm at Coe Hall $5 Admission for Coe Hall I $8 Parking
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Planting Fields Foundation opens its new exhibition
Day Trip:
Beacon, New York BY LYN DOBRIN
my eye filled in the glass. And Heizer’s four pits, innocently called “North, East, South, West,” are terrifying My first visit to Beacon, around negative space sculptures that dig 12 years ago, was to see the new art 20 feet down into the museum floor. museum, DIA: Beacon. Afterward we When I peered down into the last pit, I stopped to watch glass-blowing at felt as if I was looking into hell. This is a Hudson Beach Glass and left; there dangerous exhibit and you need to sign appeared to be nothing else to see or up in advance to see it. do in the down-and-out town. But Happily, Hudson Beach Glass is we kept returning to the astonishing still in Beacon. This glass blowing museum and witnessed Beacon’s studio/gallery is located in a restored transformation as first artists and firehouse and you can watch the artists craftspeople and musicians, and then at work. For those who want to learn galleries and restaurants have made a bit about the craft hands-on, there the town their own. are classes for Beacon is definite- If you’re in Beacon on the making ornaments, ly a great choice for a second Saturday of the paperweights and day trip or weekend beads. month, you can enjoy away. If you’re in First on your “Second Saturday,” a city- Beacon on the must-do list is DIA: wide celebration where second Saturday Beacon. This is of the month, you galleries and shops stay installation art at can enjoy “Second its finest, three-diSaturday,” a cityopen until 9 p.m. mensional works wide celebration that are site-specific and designed to where galleries and shops stay open transform your perception of a space. until 9 p.m. Many are located along The museum is housed in what was Main Street. Main Street leads toward a Nabisco printing plant and each Mt. Beacon, the name derived from gallery was created specifically for the the fact that during the Revolutionary art it contains. My two favorites, that War soldiers lit signal fires to let people still startle me and bring out a visceral know the British were coming. Beacon response every time I see them, are Mountain is on the New York State Fred Sandback’s yarn sculptures and seal. Michael Heizer’s pits. I first came upon Where there are people making art, Sandback’s work as I rounded a corner there are also people making music in one of the wide corridors. I stopped and Beacon is now the home of the short thinking I was going to walk Town Crier Café, a folk music and into a pane of glass. Closer inspection blues haven. In 1972, Town Crier’s showed that what I thought was glass founder, Phil Ciganer, began bringing was empty space. Sandback had strung music to audiences at his alternate yarn to create a narrow rectangle and lifestyle boutique in Brooklyn. He specialsections@antonmediagroup.com
PLANTING FIELDS ARBORETUM STATE HISTORIC PARK 1395 PLANTING FIELDS RD., OYSTER BAY, NY 11771 WWW.PLANTINGFIELDS.ORG OR 516-992-8678
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Beer tasting at 2Way Brewing Company
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VACATION & TRAVEL • MAY 4 - 10, 2016
moved upstate first to Beekman and then Pawling, and now, three years ago, landed in Beacon, an appropriate place since Beacon was the hometown of Pete Seeger who was a friend of Ciganer. Make sure you order one of Mary Ciganer’s delicious desserts at the end of your meal or just come in for coffee and cake. These days there are numerous places to eat in and around Beacon and we enjoyed an elegant brunch at The Roundhouse, a boutique hotel and restaurant housed in an industrial building (it once was the nation’s first lawnmower factory) that looks out toward Beacon Falls. There is outdoor dining from spring until October. A brewery and distillery both opened in Beacon in 2014, 2Way Brewing Company and Denning’s Point Distillery, both endeavoring to use locally grown crops for their products. Brewer Michael O’Herron says some of the product he uses are from his family’s farm. O’Herron is fascinated with yeast: “Keep it alive and make it happy—70 percent of the character of beer is from the yeast.” Just a bit out of town, 2Way Brewing is a great place to “chill and relax,” said O’Herron. In town, Denning’s Point Distillery is making whiskey. The place is so new that their bourbon has yet to mature. “Bourbon matures when it feels like it,” says distiller Kyran Tompkins. Speaking of bourbon, a great find
Michael Heizer’s “North, East, South, West” at DIA: Beacon was the bourbon maple syrup at Crown Maple at Madava Farms, a bit out of town but a lovely ride through farm country. We were there during tapping season (January through April) when the maple sap flows and were amazed to see modern production with 330 miles of tubing, all oozing toward a central processing area. There are 90,000 taps each producing one gallon per day of the four types of syrup—amber, dark, very dark and bourbon. The beautiful visitors’ center is a good place to taste the syrup (which is for sale) and to lunch in their café on maple-inspired foods such as maple roasted chicken salad and NY cheddar grilled cheese drizzled with syrup. Hiking, climbing, kayaking, and a variety of water sports are available
Brunch at Round House if that’s your fancy. Mountain Tops Outdoors Kayak Company is based in Beacon, with a seasonal rental pavilion at the Hudson Valley’s premier kayak beach and facility at Scenic Hudson’s Long Dock Park. Very often, kayakers go around nearby Bannerman Castle Island. It’s a half hour boat ride to the island, then you can walk/hike around the island. Bannerman Island Trust also offers tours. Scenic Hudson,
an advocacy group, has cleaned up riverfront property and many riverfront parks and opened up access to the Hudson River for all for fishing, boating and swimming; all of their parks are now free. And there’s always Mt. Beacon for a strenuous hike. A special treat was the guided tour of the historic house, Mount Gulian. This is a slice of American history beginning with the arrival of the Dutch Verplanck family in 1633. The house, built in the 1720s, was the headquarters of a Revolutionary War general and where America’s first veterans’ organization was formed in 1783. James F. Brown, a fugitive slave whose freedom was purchased by the Verplanck family in the 1820s, was the estate’s master gardener. We read the letters that Robert Newlin Verplank, who served as an officer of “Colored Troops” for the Union Army in the Civil War, wrote to his mother. In a letter dated April 19, 1865: “Dear Mother, The death of the President has had a most depressing effect on the army, a few days ago everyone was in the highest spirits, today all is sad and gloomy.” If the Verplank name is familiar, it might be because there is a Verplank Room at the Metropolitan Museum of Art with furnishings from the house. So come and give Beacon a try. In the words of distiller Kyran Thompson: “Every month something new is opening up here.”
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Eac h hotel features 1-4 bedroom suites and cottages.Children’s prog rams, spa ser vices, heated pools, yoga, Tennis Club with pro at the Winnetu, fitness club at The Nantuc ket, and award-winning restaurants.
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