North American
g n a P-51B Mustang t s u M t u Kra
- Two brasilians in the Luftwaffe. - F-16 F.A.V. Simulator. - Solomaquetas.com Special article. -Review Airfix’s McDonnell Douglas F-4 Fg.1. 7 09
Pz Kpfw III Ausf. L 1
Sixth IPMS - Caracas Venezuela Show- 2019
Polish TKS 20mm Tankette
Download them all.... Follow us in Instagram and Facebook... Get them all!!!!!!
@worldmodellingmagazine worldmodellingmagazine
2
Sixth IPMS Venezuela Show 2019
Page
5
North American P-51 Mustang
Page
11
IPMS Venezuela Board of Directors Javier Aguilar - Presidente Nestor Yanez - Secretario José Luis Reinoso - Tesorero
Editors
F-4 FG.1 Phantom II Kit Review
Page
24
Javier Aguilar Delgado Antonio Ces José Luis Reinoso
1:72 Pz Kpfw III Ausf.L
Page
27
Two Brazilians in the Luftwaffe
Page
35
Polish TKS 20mm Tankette
Page
40
Angelo Palladino
Collaborators Manuel Gil Antonio Ces Willy Puchades Joe Odoardi Daniel Zamarbide Jose Luis Reinoso
F-16 F.A.V. Cockpit Simmulator
Página
48
Chilean Choppers Solomaquetas.com
Página 3
56
Sponsored by
EDITORIAL Welcome all to our seventh World Modelling Magazine, our second in English, a magazine made by modelers, with a lot of illusion, effort and dedication. Modelism, a very intimate hobby by nature, as most human activities, transcend the pure personal reality and becomes a social event. Here is where Model shows born. They are not just model contests, they become enjoyable moments once you start sharing with colleagues. They are the moments when we can enjoy our comrade’s Works and also show our own models, sharing experiences, anecdotes, and technics and have fun. That’s why in World Modelling Magazine wanted to start this seventh edition sharing with you, our readers, a little photo reportage of the recent Sixth IPMS Venezuela’s National Show that took place this late July in Hatillo Town, in the outskirts of Caracas. However, what we do in our magazine is show great works made by our fellow modelers. That’s why, in this seventh edition we’re proud to have back in our pages a marvelous work from Master Modeler (and friend) Daniel Zamarbide who brought us a rare North American P-51B Mustang with a Little twist, a captured one. You will also enjoy the second part (and final) of a Big scratch work in a little tank; Antonio Ces brought us his Polish TKS 20mm Tankette. Moreover, our friend and collaborator Joe Odoardi show his last scratch work, and F-16 Fighting Falcon cockpit simulator to represent the same one Venezuelan Air Force (FAV) haves. Finally our friend and well known modeler, Manuel Gil, give us a look into his beautiful Panzer III in 1/72 SCALE!!!!!!! Another face of modelism, very appreciate by our magazine, is History. That’s why we brought you an interesting work from our resident historian Clemente Valladares, the story of two Brazilian who fought in the WWII skies…. IN THE LUFTWAFFE!!!! To end, José Luis Reinoso show us the new Airfix’s MacDonnell Douglas F-4 K Phantom II in 1/72 scale. He remarks its characteristics and compares it with the old molds from Fujimi, the only model available British Phantom in this scale… Enjoy!!!!!
4
6th. National IPMS Venezuela Show José Luis Reinoso Between the 27th and 28th of July, in the facilities of Centro Social y Cultural Don Manuel Henrique Eraso in Hatillo town, the sixth National IPMS Venezuela Show was held. This is the sixth IPMS Venezuela show but the first to be organized entirely by the IPMS Venezuela board of directors. For this occasion, it counted with the sponsorship of valorous organizations like Centro Cultural, Only Tickets, Club de Modelismo Ávila, Hobby Scale, Drycleaning Popeye, who collaborate with us in order to produce such event. We also counted with the support of fellow modelers who donate no less than 17 scale models to be raffle between all the present children in order to motivate the newer generations in the hobby. At last but by any means less important, we have to mention the invaluable support from model clubs from abroad like IPMS Spain and Model 34 both from Spain. Glad to say that the participations of modelers surpassed the initial expectative, counting more than 45 participants and a grand total of 274 models in the exposition tables. This kind of shows demonstrate that against all odds, plastic modelling is still alive in our country, showing a great level in all its exhibits…. THANK YOU MODELERS!!!!!
5
Caracas, 2019
6
7
8
9
10
Daniel Zamarbide
North American P-51B Mustang D E R U T P CA
Model: North American P-51B Mustang Brand: Tamiya Scale: 1/48
11
Tamiya1/48
A “SPECIAL” MUSTANG “Zircus Rosarius” was the name of the Luftwaffe squadron that had allied airplanes captured from force landings or overtaken airfields. Most of them were repaired by the Germans and prepared to fly again studying their unique flight characteristics. Among the models used with the squadron were P-47 Thunderbolts, P-38 Lightnings, Hawker Typhoons, Mosquitos and, of course, the object of this article, the notorious North American P-51B Mustang. For this article I’m going to use the excellent Tamiya model in 1/48 scale which detail and quality is already demonstrated to be superb over the years. I center the article mostly in the painting and weathering of the cockpit parts, props, wheels and fuselage of the Mustang, using tones of pictures and articles that can be found all over the internet. I hope you enjoy the article.
12
1
Before commencing the model’s construction, and supported by good documentation in the right scale, I retouch all the rivets with the use of riveting tools. I choose to improve the exterior using a new resin spinner and exhaust tubes from Ultracast Canadian Brand (1). In order to improve accuracy, some basics, I use the Aires Cockpit set, which have a good fitting although there is always room for improvement, mainly the cockpit’s floor with the sidewalls. Another issue would be the upper end of the main wheel bay (2).
2
Cabin is painted in Olive green (Tamiya XF-58) that I apply making shadows with “Brown Oil” oil colors and accentuate the edges mixing the olive Green with yellow or green yellow detailing the rest with AK-Interactive acrylics applied with brushes (3).
3
The two halves are together, after some minor adjustments on the fittings, and the Aires cockpit rest perfectly in place. Once the fuselage is in one piece, the wings assembly it’s a simple procedure.
13
The last detail before putting in place the crystal cabin, is the aiming device. In order to simulate it I use a thin little piece of acetate glued with carpenter’s white glue that once dry it becomes completely clear (4).
4
For the wheel bay paint I use the same technic done in the cockpit, mi idea is to show the ventral doors closed and therefor I let the original factory level of detail (5).
5
The aircraft completely assembled with a perfect fit in all its parts, including the four part transparent pieces of the cockpit. The model offers two possibilities, crystals opened or closed. I put some more extras, in this case a couple of high quality Barracuda Studios resin wheels (6). After masking the crystals with eduard pre-cut masks and cover with Humbrol’s Maskol the model is prepare to be painted (7). 6 7
I apply the first cockpit, interior olive green in the outer part of the crystals in order to be able to see the color from inside of the cockpit as on the real aircraft.
14
Before begin the painting process, the model’s Surface has to be cleaned up, later a thin layer of Xtreme Metal black coat is applied. Let it dry approximately half an hour.
8 10
I apply a good layer of Aluminum Xtreme Metal on the entirely aircraft (8). 9
I mask the bottom fuselage in order to airbrush the yellow in the rest of the aircraft including the tail and be careful in the radiator area because there it makes an “S�. I do it using a thin length of masking tape in order to easily bend it (9). 15
Next I apply yellow from AK-Interactive in the bottom of the aircraft (10). 11
At this point I remove with great care the tape in order not to spoild the Paint job (11).
Now I start the fine painting details, like the red band in the nose, that I painted masking the area and airbrushing matt red from AK-Interactive (12).
12
The anti-reflective paint in the nose is painted in olive drab; special care must be applied in the joint between the windshield and the fuselage (13). Final aspect after all the painting process done so far (14). 13
14
NOSE WEATHERING A.- I start the first part of the weathering; to do that I start chipping the Wheel doors, joints and bolts in the Green area using a silver watercolor.
A
B.- Afterwards, with a yellowish green I simulate little scratches on the paint, not chipping as I did in the previous step. C.- In order to show some wear in the red stripes of the nose I use a reddish orange watercolor pencil, without getting to the aluminum plate.
B
C
16
In order to assure the integrity of the work done so far, I airbrush a glossy varnish layer all over the model.
15
Once the varnish is dry, I proceed to mask some part of the airplane, which are made of other kind of alloys of aluminum and therefore goes in different colors (15). To achieve this contrast between different parts I use a second color, in this case Xtreme Metal Dark Aluminum (16). 16
With two different tones of aluminum is enough if I use more tones it could be too exaggerated and it would not look realistic (17). 17
17
The model has no decals for this version. All the swastikas, letterings and numerals and other marks has being painted with an adhesive Koster’s template. 18
20
19
After spraying a new layer of glossy varnish, once dry, I apply a brown wash in all rivets and panels of the fuselage (18). I redo the same procedure in the bottom area, the yellow part (19). After ten minutes, and using a clean cloth, I remove the excess of the Brown wash leaving a nice and clear trace of all the rivets and panels (20).
18
21
In order to achieve “volume”, I apply Brown oil color in the lower right corners of each fuselage panels (21).
22
23
After a few minutes, I proceed to dilute the oil color creating a shadow effect that gives a lot of volume to the rather plain natural metal; this also simulates a nice dirty effect in the surface. If you don’t like the effect, you can always apply White Spirit removing all the oil color and start again (22). 24
The sprayed varnish is from GAUZY, this gives a good resistance to the Xtreme Metal from masking tape and weathering process; with a very short drying time. It is also very easy to clean using acrylic thinner from AK-Interactive (23). Aspect of the model after all the procedures applied and so far. Again, all the process is protected with a new layer of GAUZY glossy varnish (24).
19
25
To do some wear on 26 the yellow paint, I apply orange oil paint and I blur it to create volume in this area (25). I keep using the same oil color technique in other parts of the model, in anti-reflective paint zone I use Brown yellow which I’ll blur later (26).
I seal the whole oil treatment with a new layer of GAUZY gloss varnish and this es the general result so far.
27 Finally, and taking advantage of the glossy finish of the GAUZY varnish that does not reduce the metallic shine of Xtreme Metal paints, I mask again the anti-reflective green surface. I finish the process spraying ultra matt varnish (27). I remove the mask and glue the rest of the pieces finalizing the model, wheels, doors, landing gear struts, propeller and the antennas. You can see the contrast between the ultra matt anti-reflective green and the shiny GAUZY metallic fuselage. 20
21
22
McDonnell Douglas F-4 Phantom FG.1 Airfix 1:72
Jose Luis Reinoso Enough has been said about the F-4 Phantom II in any of its designations so I’ll not bore you speaking about it. I rather prefer to talk about the latest launch of Airfix’s last Phantom in (my favorite) 1:72 scale. I must confess that I am an enthusiast of the phantom in all its variants and I have at least one model from each model brand. So far, Fujimi was the only, which, in the 80’s, produce every variant of the F-4 Phantom. It also was the only one to accurately distribute all British phantoms. The situation was the same until this very same year Airfix launched its brand new mold of the fg.1 Phantom. From the moment they announce it, in November 2016, it has being my personal challenge to get one. Always watching out for new in the internet, expecting. Here I must thank the people of Hobby Scale Shop, Mr Ricardo Gonzalez in particular, who brought one model to me. After Airfix postpone in two opportunities its launch, I was somewhat nervous. Now going into the matter at hand, let me talk you about the model. THE MODEL From my perspective, not an expert modeler but a phantom lover, the British ghouls are my favorites. In order to make a fair comparison, I will compare the both fg.1 phantoms, one from Airfix and the second one from Fujimi. The new model has many positive features, which are its strong points. But I will also point out the weakness of the mold that, as many models, also have. Let us start by the strong points. Basics, the box is nice, made of thick cardboard, which for me is a plus because it guaranteed the integrity of the content. Besides, it allows an easy and safe storage. You can stack it with no fear of being squash and cause damage to the model inside the box. The instructions came, as usual for the latest Airfix’s launches, well presented (as a thin book) and well detailed. Decal options are the same as the old Fujimi fg.1’s.
If you like other liveries, you have the Xtrakit’s decals option. Personally, I’ll choose this option because I want to represent the “Colonial Navy” Phantom. Of course that the Airfix’s decals are far superior than old Fujimi’s; they are made by Cartograf. Let us take note of the nice new features of this model: - Three wing configurations, in flight, landed (with flaps and slats deployed) and parked in the aircraft carrier (folded). - Airplane’s nose also in three positions, normal, folded in order to fit the elevator’s shatf and folded with the radar equipment exposed for maintenance. - Tail dive surfaces in two different positions. - Tail rudder separated in order to be positioned at will. - Air to Air and Air to Surface armament. - Refueling probe deployed or retracted. It also have a nice detail in the tires, engines and intake trunks (which let you see the engine’s fans). Of course it haves engraved panel lines with a good detail. Finally an engineering innovation in the loin of the airplane that helps in the closured process of the two halves of the fuselage (and avoids the repaneling in that area). However, not all in this model is better: - A Spartan cockpit, if you want to detail it you will have to use your scratching abilities or buy a aftermarket photo-edge set. - Poor detailing in the landing gear and wheels bays. - Poor detailing in the air intakes. - Missiles and bombs pieces lack of any detail. - The Marconi’s RWR in the tail seems too thin. - Again, armament supports and fuel depots have poor details. - Airbrakes detail is weak. - Outer wing fuel tanks are wrong but It can be corrected after a good sanding session.
CONCLUSION It is not a bad model after all but when you compare it with more than 30 years old Fujimi model it clearly lift your eyebrow, in my personal opinion I expected more from a computer designed model kit. It has new and good new options but they are fail to match modern standards of detail stablished by even them in other remolded items like the Buccaneer or the Gnat. One positive point on new building options but minus two for poor quality in the basic parts like armament and fuel tanks or air intakes detailing.
PzKpfw III Ausf. L Revell AG 1:72
Manuel Gil
INTRODUCTION Because of the A Coruña’s CIM Escala 2009 model show, we create a couple of Special Interest Groups. I was later interested in the Panzer III group. By that time, I was very involved with aviation modeling, I was not attracted to AFV modeling, and in fact, I didn’t know the difference between a Panzer III from a Panzer IV. However, something happened spending an afternoon with my friends in the association’s HQ. We’re showing each other’s works when my friend Miguel Ángel Fernández showed his 1/72 Panzer III M ready for paint. In that mo-ment, I felt in love with the model. I was amazed with the level of detail in that Revell tank. I have heard before that Revell’s tanks were well detailed in 1/72 but I have not seen one before that one. Instantly I took the decision to assemble one. Miguel Ángel recomended me a Panzer III mark L. After a couple of days I already have one purchased to our friend and colleague Miguel Castro Urresti. ASSAMBLE I will do an Out of the Box model. With no complications just straight building and painting using the instructions starting with the barge. I drill a hole and attach a nut, aligned with the turret opening. This nut will allow me to screw a bolt in order to facilitate manipulation during painting and weathering pro-cess. Building is fast, free of troubles due to its good fittings, and engineering.
27
Modelo: PzKpfw III Ausf.L Marco: Revell AG Escala: 1/72
However, it is in this moment when you see the work done that temptation arises and you decided to improve some details. Once more, I change a simple project for a more complex long-term one. Here is where I feel like a fish in the water. For this end, I start my research, mainly in books supplied by Diego Barreiro, and a good number of pictures from Pedro RamĂrez and the always-trusty Google search.
28
I resume the turret assembly. I add or improve details using plasticard, copper wire and plastic rods. The machinegun barrels were made with hypodermic needle filed to replicate its characteristic conic nozzle.
1
Later I simulate the welding lines using fine plastic rods and giving the correct textures with a blade and liquid glue. I drill the front end of the main gun, which I will glue in place later (pictures 1 and 2). In the barge area, I start improving the vent’s grills using wire mesh from an old gas-oil filter and rectangular plastic strips for the frames. I make the antenna’s base using two stripes of plastic glued and adding it to the turret by three little supports made of aluminum foil. For the front of the tank, Revell supplies two short sets of tracks with their supports for extra armor. I file the supports and make new ones using aluminum strips and a couple “L” shape plastic strip. Before introducing the links, I drill al the teeth of the tracks. Once glued in place I add a couple of bolts for their subjection. I make the towing cables using copper wire twisting them and gluing the ends to the plastic hooks from the plastic kit. In the upper side of the barge, I glue three triangular plastic strips forming a perimeter surrounding the turning ring the turret. With aluminum stripes, I add several rings in the back of the engine deck, where the towing wires sit. More detail is added using plasticard, rubber tubing and copper wire.
29
2
3
4
On the recommendation of my friend Tomรกs de la Fuente, I fit all the parts corresponding to the chains and undercarriage, doing fit tests on the barge and leaving the two sets already separated to facilitate the painting work. On the fenders, I add two small headlights and the wiring made with copper wire. With plastic sheet, I detail the headlights; I make a new cover for the right fender drawer and build two jack clamps and five hooks on the back of the barge. In the rear part, I make a structure with thin strips of plastic sheet as a support for various equipment and tools of the car crew. This has included resin pieces such as metal and wooden boxes, bales, tarpaulins, fuel cans and a bucket to which I added the ring with copper wire. To finish the assembly I perform the antenna with stretched plastic (photos 3 to 7). PAINTING
5
At first, the camouflage for the car was not very clear, alternating between a camouflage sand in the African desert or a winter white one in Russia. Discarded the first and parked the second for another occasion with more experience I opted for a decoration on the east front in the summer-autumn of 1942 after verifying the existence of this model in this period. I did not focus on any specific car and I was contributing to the model several aspects that I had seen in the cars of this model on this front. The numbers of the turret belong to the decal sheet of the model, to which I have reversed its order for the simple reason of liking the odd ones more.
6
30
After separating the groups of pieces for painting and masking the axles of the wheels, I print the model with Tamiya xf-63 German gray except the chains. The mixtures for the airbrush are made with 9 parts of solvent and 1 of paint. I apply three rises of light, which I will gradually give in smaller and smaller areas. Insisting more on all the most exposed and upper parts of the surfaces. 1st light in equal parts of xf-63 German gray and xf-50 field blue, 2nd light with field blue and 3rd with eight parts of field blue and two of matt white xf-2. I mask all the metal parts of the wheels, including the two spare parts, and Tamiya’s matt black xf-1 project on chains and wheel rubber, retouching after removing the matte black masks from Model Air by brush. The escapes and the chains on the front of the barge are painted by brush with matte brown by Model Color as the basis for a rust tone. Next, I make variations of the tone mixing sand brown and apply them randomly. For orange tones, I mix yellow and matt red, varying the proportions to achieve different tones. I spray Tamiya glossy acrylic varnish in the areas where the decals are going to be placed. Afterwards I fix them with the help of Micro Sol and Micro Set liquids after cutting out the transparent support to the maximum. After a few days, I apply a wash to all the elements of the car with Titan’s black oil, very diluted with solvent for Humbrol enamels. After what seems like a much-exaggerated result, I airbrush very diluted mixture of the third rise of light to mitigate the effect. I make a second wash with sienna toasted earth oil around the logs and on the panel lines of the engine cover to simulate dirt and dust. Using enamels of Tamiya, xf-54 dark navy gray and xf-63 German gray, mixed in equal parts, I apply with a flat brush a light dry brush across all the edges. For the weathering of the low and area of the chains I use pigment powder from pastel color bars, trying to get a dry and sticky mud on which dust has been deposited after passing through dry roads. I mix the ground pastel powder of toasted sienna with matt varnish from Vallejo, obtaining a paste that I deposit with a brush through the lower parts of the hull, fenders and certain areas of the wheels. When dry, I dry natural sienna and fix it with Humbrol solvent. To finish, I mix the two shades of cake in different proportions and moistened with Humbrol solvent I apply them randomly to vary the tonalities of the mud. In the chains, I apply a wash with a much-diluted mixture of sand brown and matt brown acrylics. Once dry, I apply dust with natural sienna color, fixed with solvent, the tow cables are painted in acrylic black, I apply a wash with matt brown acrylic and simulate the bare metal with a graphite mine. I also apply this for all the friction surfaces of the chains. With acrylic black and a fine brush, I make micro chipping marks in all those areas susceptible of rubs, crashes and bumps. I add a heavier weathering with acrylic brown ending again with some details in graphite. I perform a more pronounced deterioration in the jack. I present on the back the boxes, cans and bales, looking for a logical distribution so that the heaviest elements rest against the metal structure. I glue them with cyanoacrylate in two groups. I paint them with acrylics with brush using the same technique as the one used for the figures. On the antenna’s base, I apply chafing and chipping with a mixture of sand brown and white acrylics to mimic the color of the wood with which they were made. The tools and the wooden block are, first outlined in black and then painted by brush with the colors corresponding to each material.
31
I perform a general weathering with Mig P027 Light Dust pigment on the horizontal surfaces and equipment of the car. With bright Model Color ‘s black 70861, very diluted and with the help of a brush I deposit small drops on the engine cover to imitate fuel spills, adding more or less to vary the intensity of the stains. On the muzzle of the barrel and exhaust pipes, I apply carbon black pigment 73116 from Vallejo.
32
33
34
Clemente Valladares
Two Brasilians in the Luftwaffe
Wolfgang Ortmann. Almost 20 years ago, when I began to investigate the Latin American veterans of the great world conflicts I found an email from Sergio Luis dos Santos. Between the Portuguese and Spanish language, in 2003, we crossed a few emails where he told me about two Brazilians fighting in the Luftwaffe. First, Wolfgang Ortmann, who was born on May 25, 1917 in Sao Bento do Sul. Sergio acknowledges in his research that the initial finding of Ortmann is due to the British historian Francis Marshall. And the Brazilians completed the information using the German archives and local records. Wolfgang is registered, according to his birth certificate in Brazil, as Karl Christian Wolfgan Ortmann. His father Eduard Ortmann and Fanny Kreuz baptized him in the Evangelical Lutheran parish of Sao Bento do Sul city. His parents and grandparents worked between 1912 and 1924 in that region of South America. The circumstances explaining how the young 22-yearold Wolfgang arrived in Germany during the Third Reich are unknown. What’s true is that he is registered in the Deutsche Dienstelle on October 6, 1939 on 4./ Fl.Ausb.Rgt 14. This was a Luftwaffe school in Klagenfurt for military training. This suggests that he volunteered for his Germanic origin, his preference for aviation and the call made to the whole world by the Nazis. On April 9, 1941 was already part of the 3rd unit of the ZG76, this squad flew the double-tailed twin-engine Messerschmitt Bf110 Zerstorer (destroyers). A few months later, he went to the 2nd unit of ZG1 “Wespen”. This wing was famous for painting in its nose a large wasp cartoon on both sides of the front fuselage (where the 4 7.92mm machine guns and the two 20mm cannons were). With the Wespen, he will fly with Lieutenant Herbert Kutscha, one of the great aces of the Luftwaffe and the Bf110, who survived the war with 900 missions and 47 confirmed demolitions, half of them in the Zerstorer.
35
Unit Simbol of the ZG1 “Wespen”.
Messerschmitt Bf-110 de W. Ortmann in the ZG1 “Wespen”.
The captain of the 2.ZG1 was Rudolf Kaldrack, with 275 missions and 24 aerial victories, ten of them in the Battle of England. Rolf, as he was called, was a 28-year-old man in January 1942. Six months earlier he had been assigned to bomb Russian positions on the eastern front and in those missions Kaldrack flew in Rotte formations with his Brazil-ian wingman. In these operations, the speed of the Bf110E and its bomb capacity made it an excellent airplane. During that first semester of Operation Barbarosa he attacked hundreds of trucks, artillery pieces and land posi-tions; he also achieved a dozen additional demolitions.
Rudolf Kaldrack
His luck ended on February 3, 1942. By winter the zertorers had to wear their winter white camouflage. The mis-sion was to attack the Basary airfield south of Torpetz. Ortmann was carrying Obergefreiter Josef Milichowsky in the back seat. While Rolf flew with Unteroffizier Martin Enke. Upon arriving at the airfield, the captain of the 2.ZG1 observed a Soviet R5 observation biplane, which he set on fire with an accurate blast on his second pass. The third in the attack formation was Felwebel Tamm who makes this narration: “I was coming somewhat behind Wolfgang and Rolf when my radio operator alerted me of fighters back, they were Polikarpov I-18”. “I turned to evade the enemy, but the turning angle of the I-18 is more tight and it hit me when I told Kaldrack about being careful with the fighters I was getting into combat too. Another I-18 was attacked by Rolf, but when the captain was going to shoot, Ortmann was very close and crashed into Kaldrack’s plane, killing Martin where he was seated. Both Bf110 went down. I didn’t see any of the 4 men jump. I managed to knock down one of the en-emies, but the others who attacked me and I made my escape to the base. ” These bodies were not recovered because they were behind enemy lines, in territory not controlled by the Ger-mans They were lost in Russian flat lands immensities. Rolf was posthumously given the Knight’s Cross but for the Brazilian, only the remembrance of his compatriots remained.
36
Egon Albrecth Sergio Luis dos Santos, in the emails he sent to me in 2003, told me that the other Brazilian from Curitiba was born on May 19, 1918. Egon Albrecth as his compatriot Ortmann began at age 22 to fly the twin-engine Messerschmitt Bf110 with the ZG1 “Wespen” squad. In June 1940, he was re-designated ZG76 and then SKG210 in April of the following year. In January 1942 he was sent to the Russian front with the sixth squadron of the ZG1 (in February of that year his compatriot Wolfgann died in 2.ZG1, perhaps they did not know each other, although most likely they would talk about him). Already by mid-year, he was the captain leader of his unit and even received a Knight’s cross in May 1943 for having knock down two Yak-1 and a Polikarpov I-16; he destroyed 12 airplanes on the ground, 142 vehicles, three locomotives, eight anti-aircraft, a dozen anti-tank positions and 8 more infantry. Some of Egon’s known radio / machine gun operators on the eastern front were Kurt Urban and Hans Steckmann. There are reports stayed that sometimes returned with almost half of the plane covered with bullet holes. In October 1943 he reached the rank of group commander 1.ZG1 and was sent to the western front on the Atlantic coast, in occupied France, and he was completing missions over the Bay of Biscay. At the end of that year, he was transferred to Weis in Austria to fight in Italy against the Fifteenth United States Air Force. After heavy losses in July 1944 the 2.ZG1 begins to fly the single-engine Messerschmitt Bf109 and the squad is re-designated as 3.JG76, later it was returned to the west of France. In Europe, Egon was able to take down six confirmed American B24 four-engines. On August 25 in his Bf109G14 Black 21 (W.Nr. 460593), after having accumulated 25 air victories, he was shot down by a P51 of the RAF or a P38 USAF - there is no clarity here - near Creil. Despite having jumped his parachute didn’t open, something happened with his parachute or he was already injured, and he was found dead in the field of St Claude, France. 37
Egon Albrecth
We don’t know much about his personal life, or how he came to his father land to fight for Nazi Germany, but there are records that between 14 and 18 years old, he was in the Hitler Youth. There are some pictures of him during wartime and even a very good one with Walter Kuprinski and Adolf Galland. Besides his last sortie is also well documented. On the internet, it is easy to find him among the first aces of the Luftwaffe; his tomb is well demarcated and sometimes there are some people who remember him and leave flowers where he fell in the French countryside. -Clemente Balladares Castillo Marine Biologist, MSc. Conservation Program Coordinator Biologic Diversity General Management MinEC-Venezuela-Ccs. Phone Number +58 416-7520658 / 212-4084801
Egon Albrecth y Walter Kuprinski
Egon Albrecth y Adolf Galland
38
2da Parte
Antonio Ces
TK-S Tankette 20mm FK wz.38 1/35
LA PINTURA 1 The original color inside the tank is light beige. First, it is applied Beige 917 Vallejo Model Color as a base color. Then we make lights mixing this with White Parchment Color on the surfaces that will be oriented towards the light sources (thinking that they are the access gates of the tank). Once we have done this we proceed to paint the scratches. Using a reddish brown, always thinking about the areas of more bumps, friction and use of the tank (1). We are constantly placing the engine (barely anchored in black) to observe the assembly as we continue adding scratches and chipping (2). 2 We do this in all areas that will be visible from the outside thanks to the fact that we take the forecasts to open all the hatches of the tank (3). General view of the process (4).
4
3
Interior is ready for the next step of Weathering once the chipping is done.
5
I did the internal weathering with pigments of the brand K4 of my friend Richard Ordenes, the colors used are Light Mud, Brown Mud and European Dirt. We always put the lightest first to give the sensation of dry mud and then the darkest ones above. In this way, we give you the feeling of accumulated land and continued use. I fix the pigments with Mineral Spirit (5-6). On the engine, we use light oxide and dark oxide colors from K4 and Mig Productions (7).
6
7
8
9
10
MAIN ARMAMENT The gunner had two important elements in his place, the telescopic sight and the Nkm wz.38 FK 20mm gun. First, I make the viewfinder/periscope at the top. On the hull I made the plastic base (8-9) and the protective cap of the visor with a small copper foil to give it the shape. Also using this material I’ll be able to bump it a bit as it would happen with the real one (10).
11
As for the Nkm wz.38 FK cannon, the Pancerny Cp kit brought the body of the cannon into its leftover parts. Starting from it as a base, the rest of the weapon was scratched, including its assembly and the outside (11). Using the cannon photography in its field version as a guide, scratch using plasticard, stretched plastic and other materials (12).
12
13
16
14
15
I built the sight, the lifting mechanism, trigger, and other gears with stretched plastic and plasticard (13-14-15). The barrel itself is made with a thicker hypodermic needle (donated by my friend Alejandro Garrandez), excuse me, but now I don’t remember the measure; but believe me it was big (16). I made the barrel nozzle with stretched plastic, placed in the drill bit of the Dremel using it as a lathe and sanded to its shape. Then I drilled it and made the opening until it reached the hole of the hypodermic. View of the set be-fore painting (17). 17
18
19
In this image we can see the tiny size of the TKS tank in 1/35 scale (18-19).
20
22
23
21
As a base we use a sand color similar to RAL 7028 mixed with Ice Yellow (2021). After that I applied the green and brown colors of Polish camouflage (22-23)
24
25
With Reddish Brown and yellow of the base color I made scratching and chipping all over the surface of the tank (24-25-26-27).
26
27
Joe Odoardi
F-16 F.A.V. Cockpit Simmulator
The F-16 Fighting Falcon training cabin is designed to train pilots and technical personnel that work with the aircraft systems for the Venezuelan Air Force (F.A.V.). It also teaches how to carry out the pertinent operations in the as-sembly and disassembly of the ejection chair used by the aircraft, familiarization of all the functions and systems presented by the cabin, to practice and perfect emergency procedures. This unit was acquired, by the Fighter Air Group No. 16, with the arrival of the airplanes in the year 1983. Since then it has been used for this purpose, having a great benefit for the technical staff of the group and additionally, it is used for static displays at air events so that the public knows about the cabin. For the construction of this scale model I used materials such as: PVC sheets, Copper wire, Evergreen plastic sheets, Bacci Chocolate paper, aluminum foil, Bare Metal, copper filaments and parts of an F-16 Italeri kit (fuselage section and the glass). I eliminated the cannon in the fuselage, cutting and adapting the canopy as the real piece from the plastic kit. The base of the HUD was elaborated from acetate, cartwheels are handcrafted with filled copper pipe, the plat-form and control box are made from strips and tubes
Scratch1/72
of Evergreen, the ejection chair is completely improved. The same modeler took the reference photographs between 2013 and 2014 at the facilities of the Fighter Air Group No. 16.
1
Inspired by the great effort that technical personnel are currently making to keep airplanes in the air. BUILDING There are no construction plans, as it is common to find them in a commercial model, since this is a referenced model by photographic supports taken by the same modeler.
2
For the preparation of the solid wheels of the cart, I used a copper tube with the exact diameter for the scale (1). I cut it with a tube cutter (2), then I sanded until it was taken to the width of the wheels accordingly. As you can see, it was filled with putty to give it the desired realism (4). For the construction of the support base of the wheels I used copper sheets, with the corresponding shape and scale. On the other hand, the elaboration of the platform was constructed with PVC sheets and square copper tubes to give the real outline to the structure of the platform.
3
For the construction of the support base of the wheels, I used copper sheets, with the corresponding shape and scale. On the other hand, the elaboration of the platform was built with PVC sheets and square copper tubes to give the real outline to the structure of the platform (5).
4
5
I cut the square tubbing using a Dremel with a cutting disc, it was subsequently sanded to match the surfaces.
6
To give the supplement to the structure I used Evergreen sheet and thus obtain the appropriate thickness for the scale (6-7-8). The ladder used by this training cabin is a short ladder in relation to the one used in the air system. The ladder was prepared with PVC sheets and copper filaments (9).
7
8
9
A section of the fuselage and the ACESII seat of a kit of the Italeri brand was used to perform the adjustment and re-paneling according to the training cabin (10). Improvements were made in the internal part of the cabin fuselage with putty and plastic (11).
11
10
The section of the barrel in the fuselage was eliminated, since the training cabin does not have it, in that section it is smooth (12-13).
12
To improve the finishes of the cabin seat I used Bacci brand chocolate protective paper to make the seat belts and chair fabric, in relation to the cabin at the back of the seat the space was closed as in reality takes it; a wall parallel to the chair (14).
13
14
15 The ejection seat is presented in the cabin to make the last adjustments. All the details presented inside the cabin are thanks to the photographic reference of the real cabin (15-16). The cabin is painted in the captured way: the front panel and the side panels (17).
16
17
I prepared the cabin HUD base with plastic material from a 3 ½ TDK disc guard. This HUD does not have glass as we used to visualize on airplanes, this training cabin 20 years ago was presented with an acrylic sheet and over time this use was eliminated (18). Once the paint details on the inside of the cabin were finished, it was closed (19).
18
19
18
20
The elements are prepared with PVC sheets to give the piece the real shape (20). The glass has the shape of the training cabin, being completely different in the back to the cabin of the single-seater and two-seater aircraft (21). Adjustments were made on the lower surface of the cabin. I cut and sanded to match the exact shape of the PVC sheets (22).
21
22
The inner part of the canopy was painted with yellow transparent Tamiya paint; it was applied in a very subtle way so as not to obscure the internal view.
23
I covered with Tamiya tape the glass on the top, to proceed to paint. I used the Bluetac product to perform the freehand camouflage scheme (23). Model Master paints were used to paint the fuselage (24). The sponge technique on the back of the fuselage was used to represent the wear of the paint in that area (25-26). View of the process so far (27). 24
25
26
27
To make the handles on the back of the cabin where the external controls are located, I used custom-bent aluminum wires with the special tool for folding photogravures. They were glued with cyanoacrylate and I waited until they dry to make the final adjustments. Painted power cable filaments were used to represent the exposed wires in the training platform and cabin. The red “Remove Before Flight� tape is a aftermarket photoetch.
I interested in building Chilean models because, in one way or another, you always have to add details forgotten by the kit’s manufacturer or because I simply prefer the Chilean camouflage better.
56
Bell UH-1H, Revell, scale 1:35
in the case of being from the UN they did not necessarily install it, but I did. What is missing is the small Chilean Chilean Air Force based at Los Cerrillos Aerodrome and flag that goes in the tail; instead of it, I put the Chilean later sent to The Persian Gulf. I started building it with Republic Seal since I could not find the flag. the cabin adding details on the dashboard and armchairs, then I continued with the Fuselage and, in this Bolkov BK, scale 1:35 particular case, I added a battery, a switch and three leds, one located on the upper outside of the helo, ano- From Carabineros de Chile based at the Tobalaba Aerother one on the bottom outside and finally one on the drome. I built it starting around the cabin; I added the inside. Then I passed on the tail, there I added copper seat belts and then I continued with the fuselage. I cut wires to replicate the communication antennas, I left the some sectors and put grilles in the air intakes of the turtail rotor free to rotate as well as the main rotor, and the bines. In the rear compartment, I cut to open the doors blades are movable. At this moment, I decided to leave where cargo or stretcher is introduced or loaded. I later the engine access doors opened so that part of the engi- assembled the main rotor with the movable blades. Sinne is going to be exposed. The doors have a system of ce I want to transport it without major problems, I left hinges to open and close freely. Then I add the skates or the main rotor unglued. Then came the painting proskis and as I put together all the pieces, I was working cess, most of the complication here was trying to find in the painting; at the end, I do a final pass of paint to the specific green that uses and that is based on the phomatch all the helo and I finish adding the Machine Gun, tographs.
57
Bolkov BO 105, Revell, scale 1:35
of the height, I built it with some speed since despite having many pieces and details it is relatively easy and fast Chilean Navy based in Antarctica, the construction pro- to assemble cess is similar to the previous ones but, as in UH-1H, I also added a lighting circuit with led lights and a pair Super Puma 330, Revell, Scale 1:35 of batteries in the turbine sector and behind the cabin. I finished adding the radar nose with putty and trying Used by the Chilean Navy, it is based on the Admiral La to give it a weathering like the real one. Also add a ska- Torre Destroyer. Its main work is submarine warfare, cating system to skates or skis anti snow sinking (which rrying equipment such as sonar, torpedoes, and missiles. this model occupies normally) since it works in the harsh It is also used as personal transport. I did it to be in a dioweather of Antarctica. rama replicating the flying deck of the destroyer and its personnel performing a maintenance before the flight, ground crew loading provisions and the pilots are checAlouette II, Revell, scale 1:32 king the flight procedures. The personnel figures are Property of the Chilean Army, it is based at the Ranca- from Dragon, and I had to make some changes. Fuel bagua Aerodrome. One of the unique heli-copters that can rrels, oilcans, food cans, backpacks and drums are from reach great heights (7,000 meters.) and very easy to ma- the same dragon kit. neuver because it has little resistance to the high winds
58
59
We are a store dedicated to the sale and promotion of static modeling in all its variants, with twenty years of experience. We are located in the center of Palma de Mallorca, in the Els Geranis Shopping Center. We also conduct workshops for our partners and customers so they can move forward in this fantastic world of models. Our address is as follows: Center Modelisme S’Estel, private passage Guillem de Torrella nº 1. 07002 Palma de Mallorca.
Image of our workshops, sharing modeling techniques.
We have an online store www.sestelmodels.com In addition to being in almost all social networks and You Tube.
Our marathons that are made at the door of the store. 60
“Asimov nos Engañó” As an introduction, for those who still do not know us, we are a Spanish company dedicated to the design, production and distribution of accessories and tools for modeling and wargames. In addition, we are fortunate to be able to say that we love both, which makes us want to gather around us people who enjoy the hobby. Nothing better than this magazine to share with you what we like! What we really like is the creation of “parallel” worlds. With the right tools, you can create miniature realities. That is why we are going to create a vignette based on the laws of robotics, where the human being is absent, perhaps because the machines have definitely taken control. Give it the interpretation that you like the most!
61
1 Whenever we start a project, it is very important to know what space we have to show it, and above all, to present the different components before facing it (1). Well, that will be the space where we will tell our story, which we will decorate with the remains of a collapsed wall, with pieces taken from our concrete block mold (2). We will use our plastic tubes to give the vignette an industrial environment, manufacturing a section of broken pipe (3).
2
Moreover, to help tell the story, an advertising poster on the wall, which we will make with plastic strips (4). The poster is easy to manufacture, we should only try to give it an old and deteriorated appearance, forcing the angles and folding the surfaces. If we want to recreate a post-apocalyptic environment, given detail, do not forget (5). 3
4
We have finished the ground, slightly raised in the back, lower in the front, so that the viewing angle is perfect from any position (6).
5
62
6
8
7
It is important to work on a primer that helps us in the final finish. Therefore, when the colors cement, earth and sand prevail ... gray will be perfect as a base (7). On that basis, we will use ocher colors, earth and sand, to decorate the different areas, taking into account that the final finish will be based on pigments (8).
While we let the ground dry, we go with the protagonist of the scene. A robot of the Fillbot brand, perfect for the 1/35 scale, to which we will give a gloss black primer before painting.
63
9
11
10
The gloss black primer is the one to use the chameleon changing colors later. On this primer, the effects are accentuated (9). We have decorated the chest of the figure, with Cobalt Blue. The paint tends to turn from blue to purple, as the light strikes. The iridescent effect is really attractive (10). Well, let the robot’s paint dry, adding color to the stage. The chromatic richness of a scene will make us contemplate it with more or less attention. That is why I recommend loading it with nuances (11).
The wall is subjected to a wash and glaze session in brown and green to mimic dampness. The pipe, painted in oxid colors, will also have an oxide blue patina (12).
12
The time has come for pigments, which help us to texture the ground. Although there are many ways to work them, I use a brush, and then fix it to the surface with a layer of matte varnish varnish (13). 13
14
64
We will begin to integrate elements. The poster has been painted in rust color, on which we have added a layer of chipping medium, and then go on to decorate it in yellows. We want you to get attention (14).
15
Well, the painting of the poster is dry, now it is a matter of moistening it with a brush, and lifting it, revealing the oxide-colored layer below (15). A good session of chopped with sponge. We will finish the work with a touch of airbrush and sepia ink, and a little bit of rust pigment (16).
17
16
So is our post-apocalyptic scenario. We have used a transparent plastic strip to imitate the water line from the pipe to the area that we will then flood with artificial water (17).
18 It is very important that we leave messages to the viewer, which accompany the scene. These posters are part of the environment we want to convey. They are printed on photographic paper, respecting the scale of the vignette (18). 19 Touch the most dangerous moment of modeling! When you must imitate water in a vignette. We have made the dike, directly with transparent vinyl tape, which you can find in any store (19).
65
20
As you can see, we have decorated the bottom of the flooded area, giving it color and adding herbs. Carefully and very slowly, to avoid bubbles, we drop a thread of artificial water (20). Touch wait for the water to dry. It is usually a matter of 24 hours. I advise avoiding that at that time, dust or impuri-ties may fall on it, so protect it as much as possible (21).
21
If the water has left you a little designated, something very normal sometimes, acrylic products to imitate water, are very valid to smooth the surface. They dry the air and are completely transparent (22).
23
22
While the poster dries, we have masked the area painted with chameleon paint, to give color to our robot. The choice of this industrial blue will give much prominence in the scene (23).
24
New drying time for our land, which we take advantage of to give aging touches to the robot, gently, in some areas. We use rust color and a very fine pincer. No exaggeration in this case (24).
66
Fast drying cyanoacrylate glue and ... our scene is almost ready !!
67
68
in the next magazine.... Super Detailed Project
Flakpanzer IV Wirbeldwind
1:35
Will visit the Venezuelan Air Force Museum in Maracay, Venezuela
ÂżWhat happened in Vietnam after EEUU retired?
69
Expo Escala 2019 Model Show
70