smthn else ISSUE #@! 001
MUSES The designers, models, and personalities defining our era of fashion
FORESTS Music is an art form and activity whose medium is sound organized in time
FEEL EM In this city, vintage shopping is not just a means to an end, it is a life style
feb 2017
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SomethingElse the bomb of vintage styles
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SomethingElse the bomb of vintage styles
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DON’T BE SHY
WELC It would be... Something Else...
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ISSUE #@! 001
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ur choice of cover star this month was informed by the spring/summer catwalk shows last year. More than ever, this season has a strong message - one of individuality, craftsmanship and idiosyncrasy. All those qualities are famously epitomised by British creativity, so who better to showcase the prevailing mood than home-grown beauty Edie Campbell - a model who, no matter which way she is styled, never becomes a catwalk cookiecutter figure, but retains her own look. Although many of the London designers are great exemplars of this move towards a precious, almost one-off feel (take the prairie laces of Erdem, the rich embroideries of McQueen, the delicate fabrics of Simone Rocha), it was a trend that was by no means confined to Britain. From designers’ studios worldwide came an exotic blend, as Ellie Pithers outlines in her article “Rich Mix”. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele was certainly one of the most celebrated exponents of this haute-heirloom style, but so too were Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli at Valentino, Miuccia Prada, and Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière. All created beautiful clothes that will be the influencers of how we dress this summer. One woman who has successfully remained immune to the sensibilities of the catwalk is Her Majesty the Queen. Instead she has forged an inimitable style of her own, which demonstrates as deliberate and clear a vision of how she wants to present herself as any fashion figure. As a woman who has spent the majority of her life in the public eye, she has developed a relationship with clothes that shows enjoyment in the act of dressing as well as an element of armour for the role of figurehead. Drusilla Beyfus, herself a close contemporary of the Queen, visited the curator of the forthcoming exhibition of her clothes that will be shown around the country and got a look into the treasures that will be displayed. Style is an evergreen subject. Often difficult to pin down and always open to personal interpretation, good style manages to be both transcendent of fashion and absolutely of the moment. We talk about it often in the Vogue offices, and for this issue I asked Fiona Golfar to look at the question of what is considered smart dress now. Of course, what she discovered is that the definition is more slithery than ever.
Anya Vasilyevna xoxo Editor in Chief
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- ME
contributors
ISSUE #@! 001
THELMA LIAM
MARIE HELLER
ROSE RIDDELL
WRITER
PHOTOGRAPHER
WRITER & ILLUSTRATOR
ABOUT: The editor of Portland Magazine at the University of Portland. He has written fourteen books, among them the novel Chicago and the collection The Thorny Grace of It: And Other Essays for Imperfect Catholics
ABOUT: Trained as a classical violinist at a young age but discovered photography in college. She is coauthor of the book Keeping the Embers Alive: Musicians of Zimbabwe (Africa World Press)
ABOUT: The author of Madame Deluxe, a collection of poetry inspired by drag queens, and the novel Maybe Baby. She teaches at St. Joseph’s University and serves as a contributing editor to the online arts journal Born Magazine
FROM: Portland, Oregon INSTAGRAM: @liaambby
FROM: Brooklyn, New York INSTAGRAM: @mac0tter
FROM: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania INSTAGRAM: @roseriddell
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BEHIND THE SCENE
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ABOUT: Spends three months a year on the Austrian farm where she grew up
ABOUT: Has a passion for photography, cooking, and whistling. “I come from a long line of whistlers“ she says
ABOUT: She skiis, dances, and grows her own food where she lives
FROM: Portland, Oregon INSTAGRAM: @monicaa
FROM: New York, New York INSTAGRAM: @barbapapa
FROM: Homer, Alaska INSTAGRAM: @annieerbns
WRITER
PHOTOGRAPAHER
ILLUSTRATOR
MONICA ADAMS
BARBARA JOHN
ANNIE RUBENS
CONTENTS
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COCO PRINCESS The 6 Year Old Japanese Fashionista Like No One Else. From a family who runs a vintage store in Tokyo
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INTERNET GIRL Success Through Depop Online Store. Successful at the age of twenty one
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TECHNO PRINCESS
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The Girl That Caught Riri’s Eyes. Internationally acknowledged, with a unique sense of style
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CRY BABY Q&A with Melanie Martinez on her new album Cry Baby
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LIFE IS BETTER Life is always better with them, who are they? The Indie British band
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NORWEGIAN FAIRY
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No 1 on itunes chart! Known by her angelic voice, she refers her fans as warriors
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BOMB OF V. STYLES “Ur Not in Fashion” or more like UNIF! Independent family owned online store that is oh so popular
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ARTISTS BRAND LA based brand, Valfre, is killin us all! Illustration artist, Valfre, makes the best stuff out there
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KIKO x UNIF We are the crooked stream,where you’ll find the gem. Must have for every girl
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INTERNET GIRL
Success Through Depop Online Store
THE TECHNO PRINCESS
The New Girl That Caught Riri’s Eyes
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coco princess The 6 Year Old Like No One Other
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six year old like no other
by Rose Riddell
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Why you’ll like her: This street style star in the making is a chic outlier in the world of well-dressed tots! Unlike her fashion-conscious peers in, say, Russia , 6-year-old Coco isn’t so hung up on looking stereotypically adorable. Instead, she takes a more rebellious approach to her wardrobe, preferring pint-size looks with a more Vetements-like flair. Her ensembles range from punk—think, a puffer jacket thrown over a white button-up, worn with black track pants, teeny Vans, and a red beret—to more kawaii; Coco can easily rock Pepto-pink track pants and a matching Comme des Garçons Girl messenger bag, for example. She’s totally in on that cheeky normcore vibe too: In fact, this cool little lady makes an “Ikea”-emblazoned messenger bag and Nike dad hat seem next level.
Clothes from Funktiquetokyo
Her love for fashion started early: According to her mother, Misato, Coco started to take an interest in shopping and fashion around the age of 3, but “she was picking out a pink dress from her wardrobe from the age of two!” writes Misato. Coco has friends in high digital places: Remember @internetgirl, aka Bella McFadden, the college dropout who now runs a mini-empire selling noughties-era clothing on Depop? Turns out, McFadden and Coco are friends in the Instagram-verse, too. Cute! Fun fact: Turns out Coco’s love for fashion is hereditary: Her parents own a vintage store called Funktique in Tokyo. You can follow them here on Instagram @funktiquetokyo.
Photo: Courtesy of Coco / @coco_pinkprincess CHECK OUT COCO PRINCESS & FUNKTIQUE TOKYO! @coco_pinkprincess @funktiquetokyo
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INTERNETGIRL
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the queen of depop
by Thelma Liam
Illustration by Rose Riddell
I Heart My Attitude Problem... ella McFadden just celebrated her 21st birthday and spends a lot of time online, but that’s where the similarities between her life and that of your average millennial ends. McFadden goes by “Internet Girl” (or @internetgirl, more accurately) for what she calls her “9-to-5,” selling clothing on the e-commerce app Depop. The bulk of it is noughtiesfocused pieces that “cater a lot to teens,” all of which McFadden models herself. “People like to know they are buying it from Internet Girl,” she says. In the images, which also appear on her Instagram (a space where she first cultivated her online
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presence), her ensembles vary from mall-rat-Lolita (renaissance fair–tinged frill crop tops) to small-town hooligan (JNCO-style pants with an unforgiving Monster energy-drink logo). She’s obsessed with the saccharine cast over the early 2000s, which her wares—logoed Tommy Hilfiger shirts, or plaid Catholic schoolgirl skirts—reflect. And the sales show that she’s not alone: On average, she sells 25 to 30 products a day. Her business has become so large that she and her mother converted their basement into an office. McFadden started selling her clothing at the age of 17, after a less-than-ideal high-school experience that
internet girl the queen of depop
often left her feeling like an outcast. “I was a teen witch! I would spend my free time doing séances with my very tight-knit group of friends, or going to the local occult shop to buy charms and incense,” says McFadden, “I attended a very average public high school that I despised. I have always hated the school system and wanted out, because I felt judged,
“I dress like a full-time princess, is that not the dream come true?” based on my look, by the faculty.” She started buying vintage clothing in high school, hosting her first photo shoot for a site in a graveyard behind her yard. McFadden then entered university to study communications, and subsequently left to take what was supposed to be a semester off. That semester turned into a year, thanks to the success of Depop. Now McFadden spends most of her time at home, working, only venturing out to search for new clothing: “I find clothes all over the place, at random thrift shops, people invite me over to look in their basements, I go everywhere to find product.” Her talent lies in her ability to source deadstock from the ’90s and 2000s, which arrives new to the customer in the original packaging from a past era. “Deadstock has a special place in my heart.
FOR @FUNKTIQUETOKYO, CHECK OUT THEIR STORE IN INSTAGRAM!
Photos by Marie Heller
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Most of the brands I find are no longer manufactured making them as rare as endangered species,” she says. McFadden’s success isn’t unfounded. Her brash nostalgia for the mall-rat aesthetic has been echoed on runways like Alexander Wang’s, for Fall 2016, while models such as Ruby Aldridge and Alice Metza often dress straight from the Y2K generation in gothic, raver-kid getups. Instagram is chock-full of TBT accounts focused on the era, such as @ destinyslegendarychildren. McFadden understands the popularity of her e-commerce shop, too, and is planning on expanding by making in-house “supercute” products. And as of now, she has no plans to return to university. “I dress like a full-time princess,” says McFadden. “Is that not the dream come true?” BELLA IN TOKYO SHOTS FROM DECEMBER 2016
13 CHECK OUT INTERNET GIRL FOR MORE INFO @internetgirl @INTERNET GIRL
WANT TO KNOW MORE??? Go to www.somethingelse.com
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by Monica Adams
A RISING STAR FROM SOUTHERN SPAIN, SITA, IS BECOMING ONE OF THE LEADING YOUNG TALENTS OF HER GENERATION.
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his time it’s going to be more about fashion,” said Sita Abellán, when she stepped into the offices last week. Abellán was talking, of course, about her trip to Paris, a city she’s visited numerous times but as a musician rather than a model. Juggling life as an in-demand editorial star and night work as an international DJ, Abellán has spent the past year traveling around the globe playing techno and updating her popular Instagram account with pictures of her adventures. Known for her distinctive style—a typical outfit might involve a rhinestone-encrusted S&M choker, an offbeat hoodie, and Jeremy Scott pink cow-print heels—and cheeky posts, Abellán is part of the new wave of social-savvy models who seem to do it all. After months spent on her music, she plans to spend Paris Fashion Week focused on her day job, kicking things off with a walk for Fenty x Puma’s collection. Abellán’s appearance on the Fenty runway marks her second collaboration with Rihanna, who cast her in the “Bitch Better Have My Money” video back in 2015. Since then, they’ve remained friendly, thanks in part to the superstar’s approachable attitude. “I became such a fan of hers after meeting her,” Abellán says. “I didn’t expect that she would be so sweet, but when I went and had a meeting with her, I was like, ‘Whoa, this girl is cool.” The connection makes sense given their
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Editorial shoots for Odda
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Special race car made for Odda
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“I wake up and I say, “Okay, Im going to wear this today!” It’s not something that I can explain; it just comes to me naturally.” parallels. As musicians with a taste for pushing fashion boundaries, they share an audacious spirit, and now that Abellán is an artist complete with merch, and her own capsule collection, she’s starting to see the design side of the business as well. Created with pals from Polish label Misbhv, Abellán’s limited-edition collection entitled Pain will have showroom appointments this week in Paris. The concept behind the pieces is as inventive as one would expect. “I got inspired by my travels in Japan; I was impressed by the mixture of tradition and modernity of Tokyo, this blending of nostalgia and new,” says Abellán, who
All the photos by Marie Heller
sitabellan.com for more information
cites her strongest look as a kimono with matching gloves and cap. “I just invented an outfit that was going to fit this cool Japanese motorcycle girl gang that I pictured in my head.” That madcap approach to dressing is part of what has kept Abellán in the spotlight. With blue hair, cat-eye sunglasses, and wild layers of vintage sourced from global outposts, she’s a photographer’s dream. Though her outfits have become frequent street style subjects, Abellán admits that she doesn’t do much planning before stepping out in them. “I wake up and I say, ‘Okay, I’m going to wear this today!’ It’s not something that I can explain; it just comes to me naturally.” And though it’s popular at the moment, it’s taken a long time for her personal style and what’s considered chic to earn appreciation. “Growing up everyone was like, ‘Wow, this girl is crazy,’ ” Abellán says. “It’s funny to see how that perception has completely changed. Now people see as cool.” Let the techno princess take you on a journey discovering her enigmatic world where pop meets electro. She never questions her own attempts nor puts limits to herself. Her open-minded, honest and bold attitude makes her attractive to the social media where she has found a vaste audience. A twenty-something spanish model, dj and creative mind based between milano and new york, sita’s assertive, open and warm personality brought her to many different cities. New York is her favorite, as she can find her balance there.
bedazzled with the word Pain. “I feel like when I was in my hometown I had a lot of ideas that I couldn’t express,” she told us ahead of the presentation. “Pain for me is not always something bad, you know? It has two faces of a coin.” Read about them both below. Feel like I always wanted to do it but, after my trip to Japan, I got really inspired. I’m friends with the Misbhv guys and we talked about it and thought there was something there. I found it really interesting, first of all, how different their culture is and the vision they have of life in general. I went to to Tokyo because I was working there and I got really inspired by the subcultures and people in the street and how crazy the city is. I’m from a little town in the south of Spain so for me going there it was like, oh, my god, this is completely different from where I’m from. The fact that people go out on the street and no one looks at you or judges you for how you dress was, for me, really impactful. I don’t know if I’m alone in that
S
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ita Abellan in proving there’s life after working with Rihanna. The model may have amassed her quarter of a million Instagram followers thanks in part to a scene stealing turn as a hench women in the singer’s controversial Bitch Better Have My Money video, but the Sita Abellan story does not end there: a successful modelling career beginning back in Spain and supplemented today by a fine line in widely coveted, Jeremy Scott approved DJing. In fact, those quarter million Instagram followers may have been partly enticed by that much double-tapped #behindthescenes selfie, but what they really stuck around for was the 23-yearold’s “techno princess” aesthetic: one that reached fruition this weekend with a capsule collection for Polish label Misbhv’s 00s club kid inspired NYFW show. A sexed-up take on Japanese biker garb, it saw a blue haired Abellan in a silk kimono, surrounded by roses, rhinestone shorts Techno princess aesthetics
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A Spanish model, DJ and creative mind based between Milano and New York
21 Sita Abellan special for the new line
“I was impressed by the mixture of tradition and modernity of Tokyo, this blending of nostalgia and new.” — Sita
sitabellan.com for more info
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but I’ve always been interested in fashion since I was a kid. I mean, for me, when I try to draw something it takes a long time, so it was easier to do styling. But since I was a super little I used to dress myself and my mum let me do what I wanted in that way. I had a hard time when I was in Japan because it was really stressful. I went there as a model, I was doing castings every day, working everyday, waking up at 5AM, stuff like that. And I think that period was really important for me. I feel like it made me adult. Out there alone in a completely different culture, not everyone speaking English, feeling really alone. I was happy to be there but at the same time it was tough. So for me, I found that “pain” was the perfect word. But pain for me is not always something bad, you know? It has two faces of a coin. I was in Japan, it was beautiful, I met a lot of beautiful people, it was great. But, at the same time, I was having a hard time. So “pain” makes sense for that. I have five pieces that I designed. One is a kimono that is the most important piece of the collection. It’s a silk kimono and it’s like a motorcycle gang thing that I invented in my head. And the rest of the pieces are one top and one pair of shorts that are really sexy. I want the girls that wear it to be really sexy, because with the shorts you’re showing your legs and a bit of your ass and, with the top, your back, which I think is really sexy. Doing these pieces I wanted the girls to feel sexy and to be cool at the same time. I’m doing so much stuff. Sometimes I ask myself, should I focus on one thing? And right now, it doesn’t work for me to just do one thing. I think, right now, everything I do is complimentary. Fashion goes with music and music goes with fashion. So I want to keep doing that. I don’t know where I’m going to finish, to be honest.
Sita Abellan
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WANT TO KNOW MORE??? Go to www.somethingelse.com
Her open-minded, honest and bold attitude makes her attractive to the social media where she has found a vaste audience
ISSUE #@! 001 FEBRUARY 2017
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CRY BABY Q&A with Melanie Martinez on her new album
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LIFE IS BETTER Life is always better, who are they?
NOREWGIAN FAIRY No 1 on itunes chart!
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forset cry baby
Photo by Marie Heller
cry baby Q&A on her debut album ‘CRY BABY’
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I love ‘Cry Baby’. In the title-track you sing, “You seem to replace your brain with your heart.” Do you tend to make decisions based on your head or your heart? Definitely my heart. I think that every decision I make in my life is based off of an emotion and it definitely hurts me in some situations, and helps in some situations, like obviously writing and stuff is my favourite thing to do because I get to use all of my emotions and express them in that way. Obviously in more professional situations, I have definitely noticed I am very passionate. So if I’m fighting with someone I’ll be so super loud and aggressive, and make sure that my point is heard. That’s also just from being super emotional and wanting to get it all out. So, definitely my heart. Cry Baby is a really empowering character, especially for young women who’ve experienced the same as you - being seen 27
as over-sensitive. And the idea of ‘Cry Baby’ also reminds me of the saying, “you cry like a girl,” a phrase used to tease young boys about their sensitivity. Why do you think there’s such a portrayed negative relationship between sensitivity and femininity? Honestly, I think it’s because if you’re emotional and a little bit-- I think, being emotional is this thing that people think you’re not strong. They don’t look at you as a strong person, and it’s weird ‘cuz honestly being emotional has nothing to do with your strength. It shouldn’t be associated with each other, but it just is. That’s always how it has been, and it sucks. I don’t know, that’s just how it is. ‘Training Wheels’ is the only love song on your album. Do you think that love is something you have to learn, just like riding a bike? I think love is something that-- there are a lot of people who go their whole lives without truly knowing what love is, or ever experiencing that.
by Rose Riddell
MELANIE MARTINEZ
Insta by Coup de Main
I think it has a lot to do with multiple things. I think people say that it’s how you were raised, like if your parents show you a lot of love, you’ll know how to love. Or a lot of people say if you can’t love yourself, then you can’t love others. It’s always different, but I definitely have loved a lot in my life. I definitely fall in love quickly, and I’m very in love with being in love. But it is hard for me to write about love. I think, ‘Training Wheels’ was the hardest song for me to write, because I’m not used to writing about happy emotions, I’m just used to pulling from my sad or angry - happy emotions are very hard for me to portray in music. But ‘Training Wheels’ was the only exception.
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CRY BABY
Insta by Coup de Main
The album’s narrative follows Cry Baby through love, heartbreak, to eventual craziness - and contentedness with this craziness. I find it interesting to think about how women are traditionally represented in pop music (often as apologetic or playing the victim). Being so closely connected to your young fans and also being a young woman yourself, do you find it frustrating that so many pop music narratives represent females so narrowly?
So I don’t know - I never really think about girls specifically. ‘Mrs. Potato Head’ is a good example on the album, it’s one of my favourite songs because it was something that I felt strongly about. My intentions were never to bash people who get plastic surgery, it was just to help people to understand that they’re beautiful naturally. That was something that as a kid growing up, I’ve had so many insecurities, and am still getting over a lot, but I think ‘Mrs. Potato Head’ is a song that I needed to write for myself to feel confident and feel like, ‘I don’t need that.’ I’ll always definitely strive to write songs that are going to help people feel confident in themselves. You’re heavily involved in the art direction and treatment of all of your music videos, and the aesthetic of each of your videos is so distinct. Is the idea of continuity in terms of the mise en scène in each video something that adds to the overall narrative of Cry Baby? Yes, for sure. Cry Baby is just a character in this world that I’m trying to create, and the music videos are really important to me, and I’ve fought to obviously get all of them approved. It’s very hard to be an artist, on my first album, and I’m like asking for money for a music video for every song - it’s so hard to do. You have to pick your battles for sure, but I definitely want - and I’ve always worked to make it all connect - for all of it to feel cohesive. I’m putting out a music video soon, I don’t know when, I’m still in the editing process, but I just shot it. It’s the beginning of the story and it’s really important. I feel like with this piece, it will help a lot of people who haven’t listened to the album or don’t really understand the story, it’ll make a lot of sense once they see the beginning. And then they see ‘Dollhouse’ and ‘Sippy Cup’, in order - I think it’ll really help people understand the story of Cry Baby.
Yeah, I mean ‘cuz again, it’s the same thing as being emotional means you’re not strong. I definitely feel like if I put out a song that was like me being super vulnerable, people would look as me as weak. I don’t know if that has to do with me being a girl, or if that really has to do with anything, but I’m sure. Again, I don’t really know. I definitely have worked trying to create music that inspires girls to feel confident and strong, and feel like they can do anything. Aside from girls, anyone.
Insta by Coup de Main
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Canadian
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Albums
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US Billboard 200
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glass animals
Photo by Marie Heller
How To Be A Human Being, hype, and attention to detail SomethingElse
by Thelma Liam
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ife has changed drastically for Glass Animals since the release of their debut record, ‘Zaba’, earlier this year. Long gone are the days when the band sat in their secret shed-cumpractise room honing their dripping indie sound. Now, they worry about the size of the palm trees they’re supplied for shows. “There has been an amount of chaos on this tour,” frontman Dave Bayley explains. “Simple things. Nothing has gone wrong – things have just been strange.” Their manager has just raced out to replace the in-ear monitors that nobody can find, and a few nights ago they arrived at a venue expecting some sizable foliage for their show and, instead, came across, “like eight, really f*cking small palm trees. Instead of being like eight foot, they got like eightinch ones. I’m not complaining though, it was funny.” The smile that warms Bayley’s voice supports his seeing of the brighter side to a very Spinal Tap situation. Having known his three bandmates – Drew MacFarlane, Joe Seaward
and Edmund Irwin-Singer – since their school years, Bayley believes that formative time together has helped to streamline the creative process cooly. “I think we know what everyone is going to say about ideas that we have. There’s a level of openness, because we’ve known each other for so long. If we don’t like something someone has done, we will just say. No one gets pissed off about it anymore, so it helps us to refine bad ideas quickly and makes the process more truncated, I suppose.” When recording ‘Zaba’, the Oxford quartet had two simple goals. The first was to make a record they enjoyed. While that may seem a turgid point, Bayley is quick to stress bands can be rushed to release if they garner media hype and that was something Glass Animals wished to avoid. They took cautionary steps choosing a label, management and a recording studio: a mindset that Bayley is quick to cite as their biggest lesson up to date. “You’ve got to trust your gut instinct,” he says. “That mantra
forest
applies to so many things, and you have to learn to follow it without trying to over analyse everything.” Their second goal was to release a coherent record that boasted a fluidity some modern, singleorientated LPs lack. “You put ‘The Dark Side Of The Moon’ on and 45 minutes later you get chucked out the other side. I think the album has been neglected a bit. Single culture is huge and has been growing for a while, but I do think there are artists returning to the album.”
Personally, it’s an art form that I
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really appreciate and want to work at,” he continues. “When you can, achieve both – get the hit singles and a fully formed record, then you’ve really done something special. When the record becomes bigger than the sum of its parts, and it’s more valuable as a whole, that’s when you know you’ve hit a home run.” Since its release, ‘Zaba’ has collected considerable praise, notably for its jungle-centric theme. Bayley admits he drew influence from films and reading material: Heart Of Darkness, The African Queen, The Mosquito Coast and The Island Of Doctor Moreau are all referenced in a loving tone. All of these influences, at their core, deal with themes of exploration into the unknown – and while that accounts for the concept of the record, I suspect the ideology runs a little more deeper. “It is hard writing about your own experiences,” Bayley confirms. “That’s why a lot of songs on the album are, lyrically, quite cryptic and abstract. I think I’m slowly getting
over it, so some new stuff might be more tangible and raw, and obvious in a way. I disguised everything that was personal to me on that record.” It’s clear that ‘Zaba’ is a valuable document for Bayley and his bandmates, but when I ask what he hopes the public take away from the album, he has to pause and think. While his previous answers have flowed quite naturally, he seems to construct this answer before letting it past his lips. “I hope they at least find it interesting,” he says, stressing the last word. “All we want as a band is to make something of interest, something that will evoke thought. I guess if others find the record intriguing then that’s great, that’s what we really want.” Touring is often touted as the dream job, with many starry-eyed youths dreaming of a way into the business. And while life on the road can be calamitous, crammed and downright boring, Bayley isn’t out to crush any other dreams. “It’s been a huge change in our lives, and something we’ve had to adapt to quite quickly,” he says. “I haven’t been home in two months, but it certainly isn’t a change for the worse. We are all really enjoying it. When you get to go on holiday with your three closest friends, that’s something. We’ve just been on the dream American road trip together and somehow our job allowed us to do it, there’s no way I can complain about that.” The four-piece isn’t destined for Oxford anytime soon. Instead, they’ve got plenty more tour dates to tick off before they can think of
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Photo by Marie Heller
For their second LP singer Dave Bayley turned other people’s stories into songs, and in doing so revealed a little something of himself.
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“All we want as a band is to make something of interest, something that will evoke thought…”
returning home, or another album. Regarding a second LP, Bayley assures me that thoughts are turning to a sequel to ‘Zaba’. “Things are always ticking over,” he says – creativity is a hard thing to stifle once it’s been nurtured, after all. “The ideas never stop – there’s no off button. But, having said that, there are no concrete plans yet. We have a lot of touring to do. When we do get to do another record, though, it should be quite quick, as ‘Zaba’ was a relatively straightforward process. There was a lot of prestudio preparation, but once that was sorted the actual recording was painless.”
As has been Glass Animals’
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life is better
transition from underground act of potential to a band big enough to pack London’s Oval Space with a sold-out crowd. The flora looks up to scratch, too. Perhaps the chaos is, just about, beginning to take a back seat. At the core of every great song is a great story, and if there’s anyone who’s hyperaware of this, it’s Dave Bayley, frontman of Oxford-based indie rock quartet Glass Animals. The band’s sophomore LP, How to Be a Human Being, is chock-full of stories that ground the listener in visceral scenes. Not that their 2014 debut album, Zaba, didn’t communicate clearly. But songs like the psychedelic, abstract “Gooey” (sample lyric: “Right, my little pooh bear / Wanna take a chance? / Wanna sip this smooth air, kick it in the sand?”) are a far cry from recent singles like “Life Itself,” an urgent, hand-drum-driven anthem rooted firmly in day-to-day reality. On it, Bayley proclaims, “I can’t get a job / So I live with my mom / I take her money / But not quite enough / I sit in the car / And I listen to static / She said I look fat / But I look fantastic.” Speaking to Bayley at New York’s Hotel on Rivington, it almost doesn’t add up that the soft-spoken singer sitting in front of me is also the largerthan-life narrator of “Life Itself.” In a white-andyellow baseball tee with a lock
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of curly chestnut hair drooping just above his eyes, the 27-yearold has a distinct boyish shyness to him, but he’s animated too, constantly gesturing with his hands as he explains why Glass Animals—alongside guitarist Drew Macfarlane, bassist Edmund IrwinSinger, and drummer Joe Seaward— have evolved so much. It’s just like Malcolm Gladwell posited: If they haven’t hit it already, the quartet must be edging toward the 10,000 hours tipping point—from writing together and performing together, and probably just existing in a small space together—that surely has to counts towards the “deliberate practice” quota too. Although they’ve known each other since grade school, it wasn’t until 2012 that they formed a band. Before the year was out they were scooped by producer Paul Epworth (Adele, Florence & The Machine, Bruno Mars) and signed to his boutique indie label, Wolf Tone (they’re signed to Harvest in the US). Glass Animals have spent more or less two years on the road, cementing the buzz of early singles, and in support of their full-length debut. “Gooey” went on to become one of Spotify’s top five global viral tracks of of the year, and the band made headway Stateside too, booking slots on Seth Meyers and David Letterman. The influence of this period on the road was truly formative when it came to writing their follow-up. “This time around, we were much more comfortable committing to bolder, more extreme ideas,” explains Bayley. Subconsciously, I think we really came to appreciate that rawer sound.
Photo by Marie Heller CHECK OUT VIDEOS ON GLASS ANIMALS THROUGH OUR WEBSITE www.somethingelse.com
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“I don’t like not saying anything. I don’t like having a wall between me and the audience.”
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NORW FAIR
EGIAN RY by Monica Adams
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t’s not just to follow up the buzz around her debut album All My Demons Greeting Me as a Friend and the singles Conqueror, Runaway and Running With the Wolves. And it’s not just because Aurora’s heard Australian people “are so relaxed with a real light inside them.” Rather, she’s a bug lover. “No, I really love bugs,” Aurora says. “I love all kinds of insects and I’ve heard Australia has some really interesting bugs.” Born Aurora Aksnes 20 years ago, the singer isn’t wired like most. She started writing songs at nine — the choruses on Lucky and I Went Too Far on her album date back to then, with Runaway written aged 11. “It’s strange those songs still fit my life,” she notes. Aurora is regularly asked about her age. “People say ‘How can you write music like that when you were 17 or 18?” she says. “Or they’ll say ‘And she’s only 20’. Talent is something that comes from within, it has nothing to do with age. Young people can create beautiful things. My age is always the main focus but I don’t think it’s a strength or a weakness. My age is very insignificant to me. I don’t think about it but the world does. The world likes young people in general.” The cat is out of the stocking: a little-known 19-year-old from Norway has covered one of Britpop’s most beloved ballas for this year’s John Lewis Christmas advert. Aurora Aksnes, who performs under her meteorological first name, recorded the cover less than a week before the advert’s release, on Friday – despite the creators of the advert chosing the Noel Gallagherwritten track during filming, back in July. Steve Winwood’s Higher Love was also considered. After two years of featuring recognisable British singers (Tom Odell in 2014, and Lily Allen the year before, who beat Annie Lennox in auditions to sing the charttopping cover) the British high street heavyweight has settled on Aurora, who
Aurora has a sp to Australia nex Laneway Festiva
Photos by Marie Heller
pecial motivation to get xt January as part of the al.
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The dress from Aritzia.com
only released her first EP in April. It is thought that a music agency brought Aurora to John Lewis, who spent “months choosing who will be their voice of Christmas”. “There have been lots of options and the process has been kept top secret. Even though Aurora is a complete
A
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ksnes is now signed to Decca, an imprint with Universal, but her first track, Awakening, which appeared online two years ago, has been played nearly 250,000 times. Since then, a small repertoire of soaring, twinkly ballads (Runaway) and arch, synth-laden narratives of mercy killing (Murder Song) hasearned her attention on music blogs and at festivals such a Wilderness and CMJ in New York. Katy Perry, the highest-earning woman in pop, is also a fan: in March the star tweeted: “Finally. New music that makes my heart flutter.” Vocally, Aksnes can be filed somewhere between Scandinavian country duo First Aid Kit and the featherlight falsetto of Soak, the teen Mercury Prize nominee from Northern Ireland. While her effort for John Lewis will inevitably be heart-warming, Aksnes’s music is noticeably dark. She’s previously said that the dark skies of her hometown inspired “the melancholy sound” in her songs, as well as inspiration from the music of Bob Dylan and the Chemical Brothers. Her favourite song is Suzanne, by Leonard Cohen. She appears to be a sensitive soul: having written her first, fateful song, I Had a Dream, at just nine years old. A decade on, she told Interview magazine she finds performing live “awkward” and “stressful”. We won’t know what her take on Half the World Away sounds like until tomorrow morning – a small Christmas morning 25 days before advent has event started – but the spotlight is likely to be more than Aksnes was anticipating.
Norway, Bergen, Aruroa’s Hometown
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DID YOU KNOW?
AURORA WROTE HET FIRST SONG, “I HAD A DREAM”, WHEN SHE WAS ONLY NINE YEARS OLD.
“When you’re outside, and everything is highland, it’s like nature has its own sound, and that’s one of my favorite sounds.”
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Norway, Bergen, Aruroa’s Hometown
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Top 10 Songs of :
Aurora Aksnes
Album: All my Demons Greeting Me as a Friend Released: 2016
1
Running With the Wolves Nominations: Spellemann Award for Hit of the Year
Genre: Pop
2 3 4 5
Runaway Genre: Pop
Conqueror Genre: Pop
Murder Song Genre: Pop
Half the World Away Genre: Pop
6
Under Stars
7
Little Boy in the Grass
8 9
Genre: Alternative/Indie
Genre: Alternative/Indie
In Boxes Genre: Alternative/Indie
I Went Too Far Nominations: Spellemann Award for Hit of the Year
Genre: Pop
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Through the Eyes of a Child Genre: Pop
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ISSUE #@! 001 FEBRUARY 2017
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ARTISTS BRAND LA based brand, Valfre, is killin us all KIKO x UNIF We are the crooked stream, where you’ll find the gem
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THE BOMB OF VINTAGE STYLES “Ur Not in Fashion” or more like UNIF!
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THE DOLLIES $68 USD
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UNIF IS LIFE... The most classic brand for vintage clothing geeks by Monica Adams
PRISMA SWEATER $88 USD
PRIX DRESS $88 USD
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BOBO TOP $88 USD
AH!
UNIF Clothing or “Ur Not in Fashion” is the sickest brand we have seen hit shop in a few years now. Eric Espinoza started out as a DJ in Hollywood but quickly found his passion in clothing. Soon he was exchanging his DJ decks and late nights partying for a late night in his backyard hand dying and sewing the beginnings of UNIF. UNIF has been widely disbursed via one of the coolest blogger chicks in the game, Christine Lai from www.Christeric.com. Unif Clothes are seriously influenced by music and culture. It is super obvious in their graphic print muscle tees that portray messages such as “Tech-No” and “Hell is so Hot Right Now.” The most amazing thing about UNIF clothing is their darker approach to fashion. Their tops and tees are perfectly shredded and destroyed giving them that “worn to death” look and feel. We were smitten by the quirky yet super emo quotes on their shirts, such as the “jesus saves, I spend” tank that was seen all over magazines and editorials, from Urban Outfitters to radicle little Japanese magazines. Excited to see what lies ahead for UNIF. We really see a great future for them and are true fans of the clothing brand. Seeing that Eric Espinoza’s goal in fashion is not to be the “mainstream or the next Dior,” he truly wants to stay true to his backyard style and grunge ethics. Check them out now!
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UNIF
Clothing or “Ur Not in Fashion” is the sickest brand we have seen hit shop in a few years now. Eric Espinoza started out as a DJ in Hollywood but quickly found his passion in clothing. Soon he was exchanging his DJ decks and late nights partying for a late night in his backyard hand dying and sewing the beginnings of UNIF. UNIF has been widely disbursed via one of the coolest blogger chicks in the game, Christine Lai from www.Christeric.com. Unif Clothes are seriously influenced by music and culture. It is super obvious in their graphic print muscle tees that portray messages such as “Tech-No” and “Hell is so Hot Right Now.” The most amazing thing about UNIF clothing is their darker approach to
CLARISSA SWEATER $88 USD
fashion. Their tops and tees are perfectly shredded and destroyed giving them that “worn to death” look and feel. We were smitten by the quirky yet super emo quotes on their shirts, such as the “jesus saves, I spend” tank that was seen all over magazines and editorials, from Urban Outfitters to rad little Japanese magazines. Excited to see what lies ahead for UNIF. We really see a great future for them and are true fans of the clothing brand. Seeing that Eric Espinoza’s goal in fashion is not to be the “mainstream or the next Dior,” he truly wants to stay true to his backyard style and grunge ethics. Check them out now!
BOP LONG SLEEVE $78 USD
POX TOP
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"Ur Not in Fashion"
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51 DID YOU KNOW? KIKO AND YUKA MIZUHARA SISTERS ARE HUGE UNIF LOVERS! JOIN THEM!
YMANI SWEATER $88 USD
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artist's brand
Valfré, an LA based clothing, accessories, and art brand by Ilse Vaflré by Thelma Liam
uitting a stable job as a Montessori kindergarten teacher to go full-time as a freelance illustrator is a move that takes some serious balls—although in the case of Ilse Valfré, perhaps “ovaries” would be more apt. I first came across the 29-year-old’s work on Instagram, as many of her fans do, and was quickly hooked on the drawings of wide-eyed girls with starshaped freckles and cotton-candy hair, and the bomber jackets she designs for her namesake brand with cheeky slogans such as “Anti-Everything” and “Grow a Pair”— the latter below a heart-shaped illustration of the female reproductive system (hence that whole ovary thing). Valré’s work expresses a particular mix of vulnerability and girl-power confidence: in one drawing, a tattooed babe leans against a pay phone and says, “I look hot today. You missed out.”; in another, a girl dives head-first into a set of drawers, asking, “Have you seen my dignity?” The dichotomy should be familiar to anyone who follows young, internet-native female artists, who have carved out a space online where fuck the patriarchy can peacefully co-exist with why didn’t he text me back? (think of the popularity of Twitter account @SoSadToday, or patches and pins declaring “Mixed Emotions Club” and “Whatever Forever”). Even within this space, Valfré’s designs stand out for their whimsy and wearability—there are iPhone cases, baby tees, day planners, and canvas pouches, featuring drawings and slogans that are by turns confrontational and unabashedly girly.
the artists brand
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DON’T WORRY SATAIN JACKET $98 USD
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“Valfré has become more than just a brand; it has become a community of creative woman who enjoy art and the world around it.” — Founder of Valfré
Now based in Los Angeles, Valfré was born and raised in Tijuana, Mexico, and from a young age she turned to drawing for comfort. “When I was in elementary school, I had some problems learning how to write and read, and I used to go to this lady after school,” she recalls. “She used to make me draw all the time, so it was kind of like a therapy session, and I fell in love with it.” Her signature characters also came out of a childhood obsession with Betty and Veronica from “Archie” comics—she developed a knack for drawing the female form after poring over the collection she shared with her sister.
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BOYS, BOYS, BOYS JERSEY $98 USD
WHAT’S IN THE STARS:
Find what your flower power is below!
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By Valfré
Gemini Carnation
Aries Sunflower Just like a sunflower, Aries babes are always in direct position of the sun. Your glow guides growth and vitality. Your friends and family naturally gravitate towards you for warmth and serenity. Set some fresh sunflowers somewhere in your living space that gets a lot of sunlight. It’ll bring in tranquility in times of strain. Be patient with yourself, and acknowledge any passing feelings. Remind yourself to take in some daily sunshine in order to keep blooming.
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whats in the stars
Taurus Tulips hold pure quintessential grace. Perfectly describing our badass Taurus. Now, don’t go thinking 15th century grace, no. This grace is having an affinity for all things passionate. Whether it be your undying love for chocolate covered strawberries, or your undying passion for Alexander McQueen gowns. This passion you carry is one to be shared. You are an ultimate combination of yellow and pink Tulips.
Cancer Aquarius Daffodil
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Tulip
The stars are reading a significant month for you birthday babies. The daffodil symbolizes creativity, inspiration, and memory. Since your month is starting off with your birthday, get ready for a wave of nostalgic memories from past birthdays. This feeling will be your motivation to use creative outlets to express yourself.
With Carnations being one of the oldest cultivated flowers in the world, Geminis’ are very genuine when they please. Along with your genuine personality, you have a well-curated style. Take time this month to generate some content displaying your style, and style can be anything. Your style of clothing, photography, writing, etc. Do anything that helps you get out of a creative block. The ideas are there, you just need to break into that headspace. The carnation flower stands for love and fascination. Through your chosen medium, it is easy to see those emotions displayed through your work, you just have to orientate yourself.
Pisces
Snapdragon
Iris
A snapdragon has a juxtapositional meaning. In that it’s shape posses dragon-like features, representing grace and deviousness. Like a mythical creature, it is admired by some and feared by others. Derived from its growth in rocky areas, a snapdragon illustrates strength. These qualities make Cancer babe’s gracefully powerful. Take this month and make it a dreamy vacation away from your anxiety-driven thoughts. This month will be solid.
The last half of this month we are celebrating Pisces birthday babies! Your flower is the Iris, symbolizing wisdom and courage. For your birthday, find something intimate to do with your close friends and celebrate in a small environment. These intimate moments with your friends and family are among the most special of times, take advantage of them. Take lots of photos, try new food, and wear whatever you want. Illustrations by Valfré
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Libra Calla Lily
Sagittarius
whats in the stars
Rose
Leo Daisy For the Leo babe, a daisy embodies purity and is often associated with cheerfulness. Think of a baby laughing at their own reflection. It’s such a pure kind of joy, the kind that brightens your day with a genuine smile. That pureness is something you carry with you everywhere. Others adapt to your sparkling environment. You are a dream fairy, carrying a sparkle everywhere you go or be at.
The most famous of flowers is the Rose. The meaning of a rose can range widely depending on the color of the rose. Most commonly, and relatable to Sagittarius angels, the rose symbolizes wisdom, beauty, and sensuality. For the month of February, the rose represents the start of a luminous romantic month. The stars are reading an intellectual romance around the middle of this month. Your craving for conceptual conversation will be satisfied shortly.
Libra’s convey striking and overwhelming beauty. This beauty is defined in any way you may like. Both physically and in your psyche, you carry an undeniable charm. Lily’s are among the most powerful flowers; they can be cut and grow in a case, and survive frosts. Representing resurrection and birth. Libra, you are a badass babe, able to revitalize yourself in any environment, and blooming in jarring environments.
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Scorpio Orchid
Capricorn Lily
Virgo Peony
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Peonies manifest romance. Although this month is known for Valentines, you carry romance year round. You are able to view the world through a different lens. Colors are a bit brighter, music is prettier, and the sun feels snug. Don’t lose sight of this ability, even if this Valentines day doesn’t bring in the romance you may picture, it will come in ways that you do not expect.
This month the Lily will represent passion and drive for our Capricorn babies. You’ve been working hard on your personal projects lately. Do not feel like it is all going to waste, it will all be payed off this month. Remind yourself of your zodiac flower, the lily, holding beauty of rebirth.
A major representation of the Orchid, as it is for Scorpio, is thoughtfulness. Scorpios are conscious of themselves and their surroundings. Like Orchids, that are usually used as houseplants, Scorpio babes are most comfortable in a welcoming environment. Give yourself patience and understanding. Even if you catch yourself wrapped up in your thoughts, calmly give yourself the attention you need in order to bloom.
Illustrations by Valfré
by Thelma Liam
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SomethingElse the bomb of vintage styles
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Known for her ultra-cool, original style and fun personality, Kiko Mizuhara has teamed up with UNIF to launch a 2017 spring collection
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Photography by Marie Heller
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K
Kiko for Kiko x Unif new Spring 2017 collection
nown for her ultra-cool, original style and fun personality, Japanese model and actress Kiko Mizuhara has teamed up with LA based label UNIF to launch a 2017 spring collection. The range is inspired by Kiko’s love of retro clothing, and the collab features a line-up of far-out ‘90s pieces, including a rainbow-colored crop top, an embroidered denim jacket, a mini slip dress and even a delicate, baby blue bra with butterfly detailing. Click through the lookbook above to see Kiko and her sister Yuka Mizuhara modeling these irresistible pieces. When she was still a teen in Tokyo, Kiko Mizuhara was hailed as the new Japanese modeling sensation. In 2010 she made her film debut in Anh Hung Tran’s adaptation of Haruki Murakami’s 1987 novel, Norwegian Wood, which was set in the Tokyo of the 1960s. Working alongside actress Rinko Kikuchi, Kiko played the character Midori, one of Japan’s cult literary heroines. As a model, she recently represented Barney’s New York 2010 Holiday campaign, and was photographed by the Japanese legend, Nobuyoshi Araki. But Kiko isn’t really Japanese at all — she was born in Dallas, Texas, to a Korean mother and an American father. The moment she walks into the studio, the whole place comes alive. Her beauty and vivacious personality are as captivating as ever, but Mizuhara has recently developed an unreservedly confident presence as well—in a good way. With everything already set in place, photographer Nobuyoshi Araki gets down to shooting right away. Kiko Mizuhara. 25. A prolific model and actress, not a day goes by when she can’t be seen on TV or on the cover of a magazine. But she pays no heed to the fickle opinions and gossip of society, with a fearlessness and an indefatigable drive that allow her
Unif leather choker
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hink you just have to look to see that there are a huge amount of talented young people out there today, in the generation between the ages of about 17 and 30. Thanks to social media, people in Japan can now learn about and meet people doing awesome things all around the world, whereas only a few years ago it felt like there was a kind of invisible barrier between Japan and the outside world. Young people today are really free in that regard. It’s like there’s this sort of energy going around right now, where young people everywhere want to create great things together—I’m glad I was born into such a great generation. I encounter loads of new things every day, and that gives me a lot of motivation. I really feel like there are getting to be more and more interesting people out there all the time, too. It’s totally different today to when I started out as a model twelve years ago, you know? Japan was in its third wave of Gyaru fashion back then: girls were doing the whole ganguro thing, walking around Shibuya in kigurumi onesies, and Kumi Koda was one of the most popular singers around. Women really had a “strong” attitude back then. I feel like there was a period after that when girls were more quiet and understated for a while, but recently you see more women being strong in a different kind of way. It’s like everyone’s gotten sick of being conservative. You can really feel the excitement in the air right now, and I want to take part in that kind of movement, too. Asians outside of Japan are all super aggressive in how they approach things. I’d say China is number one in Asia in that regard. Koreans also
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tend to speak their minds, and they’re very entertaining. They love to do new things but they’re also good at imitating others, and they rise to any challenge with a lot of flexibility. They’re very accepting, but I still think it’s really important to understand those countries’ cultures and take a respectful attitude towards them—it’d be really naïve to think that you could just go over to China and have work handed to you right away. I want to work over there so I’m trying to learn a lot about Chinese culture right now to show good will… and I’m seriously enjoying it! Since I’ve had more opportunities to go to other countries in Asia I’ve been able to look at Japan more objectively: I feel like we used to have so much originality as a country, but we’re in a bit of a slump right now. If Asia could pull together and work as one we could do amazing things, and create some great entertainment too. But for political reasons, and because of our national rivalries, we’re not getting along very well right now. That’s something I’d hope that my generation could start to change. I want Asia to work together to make great stuff and share it with the world. I’m set to be in a few movies this year in China.
“I encounter loads of new things every day, and that gives me a lot of motivation.”
Kiko Mizuhara collab with Unif butterfly mini dress
Kiko Mizuhara collab with Unif baby blue fluffy jacket
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Kiko Mizuhara collab with Unif butterfly jacket
“I myself havent changed at all, but as I put more stuff out there, the people who are watching me are changing.�
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Kiko Mizuhara collab with Unif see through Kiko hoodie
I’m so happy it’s finally been decided! I want to stay true to my roots as an Asian. It would be ideal if I could make the move from Japan to the rest of Asia, and then from Asia to the world: I was raised on Japanese, Korean, and American culture, which I think is pretty unusual, and I’d like to use the unique background that I was blessed with in my work. Yeah, it happens. But I just feel like nipple is nipple. So what? It’s not a big deal. But when that kind of stuff happens it really drives home just how many people are looking at me and my posts. I myself haven’t changed at all, but as I put more stuff out there, the people who are watching me are changing. And that means that way more people are criticizing me now. I’ve never once thought about trying to sell myself in a favourable light, and my stance on that hasn’t changed. But lately, I’ve definitely been feeling that the more people watch me, the more this sort of thing is going to happen. Let’s see, I’ll be 35. I’d like to make a kind of “union,” where young artists and upcoming actresses, singers, and creators can get together to create new things. I hope I’ll still be working as an actress then, but only in the kinds of things I really want to.
Kiko Mizuhara collab with Unif see through Kiko shirt
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ISSUE #@! 001 FEBRUARY 2017
FORESTS
FEEL EM
The designers, models, and personalities defining our era of fashion
Music is an art form and activity whose medium is sound organized in time
In this city, vintage shopping is not just a means to an end, it is a lifestyle
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MUSES