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Hotspots EAT
EAT
RAF DALMAU checks out the dizzy panoramic heights and dazzling coastal Australian fare at new restaurant, Kaarla.
Kaarla, meaning “where the home fires burn”, is a new and exciting contemporary restaurant and bar highlighting coastal Australian cuisine. Helmed by Executive Chef John-Paul Fiechtner (JP as he is affectionately known), it honours nature by maximising every ingredient used. A central element of Kaarla’s kitchen is its custom-built grill and oven designed by Samuel Fraraccio, a trained stone mason in Australia. In line with the concept, Kaarla’s wine list features Aussie wines produced by sources that follow eco-friendly growing principles.
We’d already heard the buzz around Kaarla before we arrived. The menu is truly inventive, mysterious, rich, and unique; the ambience is light and informal; and the offerings encourage the table to share.
We started our culinary adventure with the Sydney Rock Oyster, Fig Leaf, Oyster Plant Vinegar (S$8/piece), a simple mix of raw Sydney rock oysters drizzled with subtly sweet house-fermented fig leaf and oyster plant vinegar. Next up was the Salt Cured Kangaroo and condiments (S$32). This ‘carpaccio’ of kangaroo loin was house cured and topped with nutty, chewy black barley ancient grain from Western Australia,
Aged beef, braised onions, garden slasa verde and green pepper Murray Cod, fermented fennel juice, bitter leaves and carrot
anchovy and shiro dashi dressing, bunya nut and finger lime, and crowned with greens and flowers from Kaarla’s own food forest. It was one of the most unique dishes we’ve ever tried.
We followed with Zucchini, Mussels, Tomato, Trout Roe (S$30), a sophisticated but light creation with locally sourced zucchini flowers steamed and infused with smokiness and a slight char on the coals. This was served alongside mussels from South Australia, pickled in mirin and chardonnay vinegar, and sweet Japanese tomatoes and trout roe sustainably sourced from Yarra Valley in Victoria. On the side was the Kaarla Closed
Loop Salad - Roof Top Leaves and
Flowers, Tiger Nut Curd, Daikon (S$28).
This dish highlights ingredients from the day’s harvest of edible leaves and flowers, all tossed in a housefermented calamansi juice dressing.
For our main we ordered the White Pyrenees Lamb Saddle, Myrtle Honey, Salt Bush, Bunya (S$58). We also had the Aged King Island Beef, Braised Onions, Garden Salsa Verde, Kampot Pepper 600g (S$120). The Free-Range Pork, Minya, Riberry, Eggplant (S$58) could be cut with a fork, the sweet meat matching perfectly with the minya and the bitterness of the eggplant. For a taste of the pecan we chose the Murray Cod, Fermented Fennel Juice, Bitter Leaves and Carrot (S$62). The cod undergoes a quick salt brine with citrus and aromatics, and is then steamed and lightly finished in the wood-fired oven. A flavoursome beurre blanc-style sauce of fermented fennel juice and fish stock served alongside sea blite and pickled vegetables sets it off perfectly.
Our desserts were Arden Grown Tigernut Ice Cream, Tigernut Nougatine, White Chitose Corn, Calamansi Jelly and Poached Oranges (S$25) - a great way to end a fantastic meal.
VERDICT: Kaarla is not a cheap night out, but unlike other restaurants, the menu is guaranteed to surprise and the location features some of the best skyline views Singapore has to offer. Put it on your list of places to try.
Arden grown tigernut, salted honey orange and lime
Veg or no v(eg)? That is the question on everyone’s lips at hip Indian restaurant Firangi Superstar, the latest venue to offer a new plant-based menu ...but this time it’s serious.
FIRANGI SUPERSTAR
20 CRAIG RD, #01-03, 089692 firangisuperstar.com
At Firangi Superstar, you’re transported into another land. Namely 1940s Calcutta, which doubles up as this flamboyant restaurant’s entry point and the start of your journey, both physically and gastronomically. Am I actually in West Bengal or just down from the carpark on Craig Road? Things get fuzzy fast.
Firangi opened just over a year ago describing itself as “a foreigner’s love letter to India”. Launched by The Dandy Collection (Neon Pigeon, Fat Prince), it had big boots to fill and no problems in doing so. It swiftly gained a reputation as one of the swishiest places to find fresh and innovative Indian cuisine and tables are never easy to come by - not bad for a pandemic baby.
With everything going so well, we could have forgiven Firangi for simply continuing on. However, aware of the ever-changing tastes of punters and the plight of the planet, they’ve launched a range of plantbased dishes on a “Veg Or No (V)eg” menu which pay homage to their most popular meaty offerings.
Instead of presenting food made with wellknown meat alternatives, the chefs here use only fresh vegetables and talent to create delicious doppelgangers that replicate the original flavour profiles and spices. “We conceived “Veg Or No (V)eg” to be a menu as flexible as a yogi,” explains head chef Raj Kumar. “We use as much local produce as possible, no MSG, and there is something for everyone. You will have to try it to truly understand the depth of the versatility of this menu!”
We’re presented with the original and new planty equivalent placed side by side. This provoked much oohing and ahhing from us over the elegant presentation and attention to detail: a purple flower petal here, a drizzle of Chermoula there - and yes that is a Parle-G biscuit attached to my Chai Masala Milk Punch. It’s all par for the course in this Wes Anderson setting.
We start with homemade flatbreads and a medley of chutney comprising Smoky Tomato, Coriander Mint and Roasted Almond. For an extra dipping option, the Sacred Earth Samosa joined the party. The meat version is a tangy wagyu beef tartare with citrus pickle and caviar; the herbivore alternative packs beetroot tartare, citrus pickle and caviar. Remarkably, both dishes taste similar with the beetroot maintaining the same texture, consistancy and taste profile of the beef. We didn’t believe that plant-based Holy Cow could be as impressive,
Clockwise from top left: Holy Cow (NonVeg). Dosa Pancake. Sacred Earth Samosa (Non-Veg) and Tawa Fried Brussels Sprouts with Garam Masala
but boy, were we wrong. Crispy beef tongue mixed with a beef masala and pickled shallots served in a bone marrow had the plant-based option of snake gourd-potato masala mixed with crispy potatoes and pickled shallots hot on its heels. The bed of accompanying naan chips were beyond addictive. Next up was the plant-based version of Grogu’s Roast, a roasted cauliflower with a Mangalorean spice mix and ghee. Firm, hearty and satisfying with a chilli kick, it fully stood up to its carnivorous counterpart of tender and nutty Iberico pork. In fact, the two were a match made in heaven. Backing up ANZA’s strong belief that Brussels Sprouts should not just be for Christmas were the Tawa Fried Brussels Sprouts with Garam Masala (S$16), which were delicately spicy and full of bite.
As a special treat, Raj treated us to Back In The Saddle, a Tandoori Spiced Lamb, Confit Garlic and Curry Leaf. The melt-in-the-mouth Australian lamb comes smothered in tandoori spices and a moreish confit garlic sauce.
Dessert is Dosa Pancakes layered with a delicate wild berry compote and light coconut chutney, served with coconut cream. Jaggery syrup creates a quintessential kick of Indian sweetness that ends our meal and escape to India on the ultimate high.
VERDICT: Dining at Firangi Superstar can be all your plant-based dreams come true or a carnivore’s haven. The effort, creativity and attention to detail that goes into every dish to deliver innovative, tasty and decidedly different gastronomy is second to none. Go for a night to remember.