APRIL OTJEN Introduction to Fashion Business FA12-27-1910-03 Fashion Journal
Table of Contents 1
Women’s Wear Daily - Cosmetics Article
2
Wall Street Journal - Business Article
3
Wall Street Journal - Business Article Continued
4
Vogue - Fashion Trend Summary
5
Vogue - Fashion Trend Article
6
Vogue - Fashion Trend Article Continued
7
Fashion Observation - Fall 2012
8
Five Department Store Trends
9
Fabric and Color Trends
10
Global Trends
11
Visual Displays - Retailer 1
12
Visual Displays - Retailer 2
13
New Television Show
14
Firstview.com Designer - Nicole Miller
15
Career Descriptions
16
Fashion Don’ts
17
Fashion Don’ts Continued
18
Career Opportunities
Entry #1 - Women’s Wear Daily - September 7, 2012 Beauty Bulletin: Velvet Dominates Makeup by Jayme Cyk This article introduces velvet as the primary texture in the cosmetics industry this fall. It suggests that velvet will introduce a level of sensuality and sophistication to makeup in opposition to the glossy look that was popular over the summer. It also suggest that a velvet look and texture offers an erotic, feminine finish. I think that the velvet look for fall is completely appropriate. As the weather cools down, transitioning our cosmetics to a warm, luxurious look is needed. Velvet finishes will offer rich, deep colors that enhance fall’s color trends and are cohesive to the heavier fabrics we will be wearing. Article: http://www.wwd.com.emils.lib.colum.edu/beauty-industry-news/color-cosmetics/ beauty-bulletin-velvet-dominates-makeup-6209702?module=beauty-industry-newscolor-cosmetics-page-3
Beauty Bulletin: Velvet Dominates Makeup By JAYME CYK This fall, velvet is the dominant texture for makeup, ushering in a new era of sensuality and femininity and offering a marked contrast to summer’s shiny finishes. “Velvet, with its subtle sophistication, has a strong connotation of erotic femininity,” says Valerie Steele, curator and director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “Translated to cosmetics, it acquires a different meaning, but with the idea of a velvet touch, you can’t escape the eroticism.” To that end, deep, rich colors and a plush finish dominate makeup artists’ offerings, from lushly opaque liquid lipsticks in deep hues, like those by Hourglass and Shiseido, to Ciaté’s textural nail lacquer. “Glossy can be quite overt since it looks wet,” says Steele. “The velvet surface has a greater tactile eroticism.”
Entry #2 - Wall Street Journal (Online) - September 17, 2012 Burberry CEO Says Strategy Won’t Change by Paul Sonne Burberry disclosed that this fiscal quarter resulted in the worst retail-sales growth since the economic downturn. They also informed the public that they had no plans to change any of their strategies to make up for the loss. Although their fashion show displayed new designs, which reflected the Burberry’s trench-coat beginnings, Angela Ahrendts, Chief Executive, commented that steady performance and not one collection or quarter is how successful business is measured. I think that the Burberry brand can sustain during and after a lackluster economy. By choosing to not change up any of their business strategies, they are showing the confidence they have in their products and brand. I also think that it is possible they are in a position where they may not be able to change their game plan. With the new, and highly anticipated, Burberry store that will be opening on Michigan Ave. in the Fall, and the flagship location in London that just launched, Burberry is probably anticipating sales to show a drastic increase this quarter due to the openings of these locations. Both are said to set the standard in which more stores will be modeled after. Article: http://search.proquest.com.emils.lib.colum.edu/wallstreetjournal/docview/ 1040709433/13AC474D7385E5DD1CC/30?accountid=10231
Burberry CEO Says Strategy Won't Change Sonne, Paul. Wall Street Journal (Online) [New York, N.Y] 17 Sep 2012. Burberry Group PLC Chief Executive Angela Ahrendts said the British luxury label isn't shifting course after revealing a surprise profit warning last week and reporting its worst retail-sales growth since the financial crisis. "We aren't changing strategies," Ms. Ahrendts said in a brief interview Monday after Burberry unveiled its Spring/Summer 2013 collection at London Fashion Week. Ms. Ahrendts said Burberry can't control the external consumer environment, which includes continued economic turbulence in Europe and decelerating growth in China, one of Burberry's most important markets. "Can anyone control China?" she asked, noting that analyst reports suggest growth in the country will continue despite the recent slowdown. Last week, Burberry informed the market in a surprise announcement that same-store retail sales for the first 10 weeks of its current fiscal quarter were flat--the fashion house's worst performance since 2008--and warned that full-year pretax profit would come in at the low end of market expectations.
The company reports full quarterly results on Oct. 11. The profit warning sent Burberry's shares sliding 21% to ÂŁ10.88 ($17.67) on the day of the announcement, and they have fallen farther, to ÂŁ10.71 a share, since then. Still, the profit warning didn't sour the mood at the British fashion label's show Monday, where designer Christopher Bailey sent colorful metallic trench coats--even one made of peacock feathers--down the runway. Asked if the new designs would revive Burberry sales, Ms. Ahrendts said it was one of Mr. Bailey's "most magnificent" shows, with clear nods to Burberry's trench-coat heritage, but said a successful business is about steady performance, not one collection or one quarter's sales. Sonne, P. (2012, Sep 17). Burberry CEO says strategy won't change. Wall Street Journal (Online), pp. n/a. Retrieved from http://search.proquest.com/docview/ 1040709433?accountid=10231
Entry #3 - Vogue - September 1, 2012 Look Both Ways Editor: Mark Holgate The trend for fall in this article is two-sided clothing. The outfit looks like one from the front, and a different one from the back. Differing fabrics, silhouettes, colors and designs offer two separate looks in the same outfit. Finding ways to display these outfits in order to adequately advertise them poses a problem. Flat photos and even mannequins are not effective to show customers what the outfit truly looks like. In order to see the entire picture, customers need to be able to see it from all angles and possibly even see how it moves. I think that this trend could be a really fun one, but the lack of options to successfully display the clothing could pose a problem with sales. Clothing articles like this really do not have any hanger appeal and they can’t be laid flat or folded in stores to attract customers. Like most trends, it takes a certain clientele to help it appeal to the masses.
Article: http://emils.lib.colum.edu/login?url=http://search.proquest.com/docview/ 1081667735/fulltext/2?accountid=10231
Entry #4 - Fashion Observation - September 20, 2012 Something I am noticing in the stores is the push for embroidery, lace and intricate embellishments on articles of clothing; especially on outwear. Coats, blazers and jackets that are embroidered to be spotlighted pieces of an outfit. I saw a small blurb about this in Vogue when researching Entry #3; and I have also seen many stores like Bloomingdale’s, Neiman Marcus and Anthropologie bring out these pieces. This trend is similar to the sequin embellishments we saw last year that are still around this year. It differs from last year in the sense that it brings an elevated level of femininity while being a little retro in some cases.
Entry #5 - Five Department Store Trends - September 27, 2012 Store Visited: Saks Fifth Avenue 1. Woven: A woven technique was popular among accessories and home goods. Clutches, purses, totes, shoes and belts all had woven styles available. Some clothes, like a woven cardigan was also available. In the home good section, I saw picture frames, pillows and even a pen holder for sale with woven techniques used on them. 2. Embroidery: A very popular trend this fall is embroidery. All types of clothing and accessories are offered with embroidery - from cardigans to dresses, coats, tops and pants. Accessories like shoes, purses and scarves are also part of this trend. For the home, pillows and throws are being embroidered, as well as journals and picture frames. 3. Bright Blues: Bright, bold, blues, like the color cerulean, are big this fall. The color can be worn by men, women and children so there’s a wide range of clothing and accessories available in these hues. There is also cookware, appliances, gift boxes and countless home goods available. 4. Plaid: The plaid trend is back this fall. From flannels to hats and shoes, articles that fit from head to toe are available in this print. It’s also popular with throws, pillows, candle boxes, picture frames and a decanter. 5. Skulls: Why this trend is still prevalent is beyond me. There are a lot of options available to purchase any type of apparel with skulls on it. This trend has crossed over to the home goods section in the form of coasters and mouth-blown glass serving pieces.
Entry #7 - Color and Fabric Trends - October 7, 2012 Fabric Trends: Fabric Name: ! Donegal Tweed All Wool Fabric Fiber Content: ! 100% Wool Country of Origin:! Italy
Fabric Name:! ! Fiber Content:! ! ! ! Country of Origin: !
Alencon Lace 60% Cotton, 25% Rayon, 15% Nylon France
Fabric Name: ! Fiber Content: ! Country of Origin:!
Plaid Red White and Blue 100% Wool England
Color Trends:
Fuchsia/Pink!
!
Chartreuse! !
Tangerine! !
Emerald
Entry #8 - Global Trends - November 5, 2012 Tokyo: Modernizing 60’s fashions as well as incorporating casual sports attire seem to be trends walking the runways in Tokyo for the Spring 2013 season. I can see the the United States integrating a modernized 60’s look into our fashions. Shift dresses seem to remain as some sort of a staple piece in women’s wardrobes; the fabrics and prints are often updated or changed to reflect the current trends. Sydney: Bright colors and again, somewhat of a casual sports theme were seen trending at David Jones’ runway show for Spring 2013. Printed baseball jackets, bright colored maxi dresses, neon bodysuits; all are bringing color and youth to the industry. With the growing number of women becoming interested in sports in America, I see the casual sportswear trend becoming really popular. Putting a feminine and trendy take on apparel that will interest and influence women in buying team gear has already proven to be a great thing in the states with Victoria Secret’s Pink NFL line. Brazil/South America: Prints from nature and natural textures and fabrics are trending in South American ad campaigns. They have played into this trend by publishing pictures of models wearing these clothes in either dark nature settings or bright beach settings. The prints reflect the look of nature while the many of the fabrics bring the natural elements to garments. Slick, reflective, black material that looks wet, for example; or silky, smooth green fabric that looks like aloe leaves. This trend is very wearable and can be dressed up or dressed down depending on the occasion.
Entry #9 - Visual Displays - October 19, 2012 I like the way the blazers are displayed here on hangars and are partnered with folded sweaters and scarves below. It makes it easy to visualize the components of the outfit individually and gives you the option to mix and match the pieces. Having the blazers front-facing is more eye appealing than having them hung sideways.
Here, I like that the mannequins are polished, yet a little messy. They are accessorized well with jewelry, belts, scarves and purses. The color scheme between the three displays is also cohesive and functions as a working group together. Their placement closer to the middle of the store and near the register make them highly visible.
The color scheme in this display reflects and unifies the decor in the room that it is in. I like that the item arrangement is simple and minimal, with accessories underneath it. The lighting accentuates the display on the table top and the shiny surfaces add an extra design element.
This display is a seating area between two wall displays. I think that it adds comfort and familiarity to the room and allows customers to feel welcome and ready to stay for awhile. The color scheme is fun and fresh while the different textures add warmth. This room displays a level of sophistication expected from this retailer.
Entry #10 - New Television Show - October 25, 2013 I see the new television show Nashville extending the glam-country-girl trend out of the south and into other areas of the country. I am from Texas, and there have always been waves of this “glamourous country girl” look that usually gets amped up around rodeo time. I see this show bringing that kind of “rocker,” “glamourous,” yet “country” style into areas other than the south. This look usually involves rhinestones, or something sparkly and shiny, with something a little more edgy like dark denim or leather. Throw in sky-high stilettos or a pair of cowboy boots and your look is on its way to being complete. There is also a softer side to this style with belted prairie dresses, cardigans and sandals or cowboy boots.
Entry #11 - Firstview.com - Designer - November 12, 2013
Designer: Nicole Miller Collection: Ready-to-Wear Season: Fall/Winter 2012 Retailer: Nicole Miller Retail Stores, Department Stores (Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, etc.) Thoughts on Design: I love the detail in the lace at the top of the dress. I also like the pockets; the dress would have been lovely without them, but I like the surprise of the pockets. Nicole Miller is known for reinventing the “little black dress,� and this is just another one of her great takes on a black cocktail dress.
Entry #12 - Career Descriptions - November 20, 2012 Fashion Designer - Fashion Designers are responsible for designing apparel and accessories. There are many different categories they can design for and they are responsible for following others in the industry and setting trends. When creating a collection, designers are responsible for sketching designs and flat sketches, working with fabrics and color, sewing, accessorizing, managing a show to display their designs and often leading a staff to complete that individual’s end product. Fashion Designers also need to be able to forecast upcoming trends since they will be purchasing fabrics and committing to designs at least a year before consumers will see the product. Buyer - A Retail Buyer is responsible for ensuring the right merchandise is in the store at the right time in the right amounts. A store’s sales and profit rely on the the merchandise they have in house to sell and the Buyer is responsible for ensuring that is a success. They develop partnerships with vendors, analyze current and projected sales for the business, oversee how the merchandise will be displayed and spend time advertising and marketing the merchandise they purchase. Managing the financial side of purchasing is important too. Product Development Manager - Product Development Managers deal with garment construction and marketing. They are often responsible for setting and maintaining a level of standard in which the company will follow when it comes to the merchandise they carry and customers they reach. They make it possible for the company to compete with others by working with the Buyers and ensuring that their merchandise is cohesive with their customer base.
Entry #13 - Fashion Don’ts - November 18, 2012
Don’t - Buy Shoes You Are Unable To Walk In Consider where you will be wearing each pair of shoes you purchase. If you are not used to, or comfortable, walking in skyhigh stiletto heels, learning to do so at an event or night out is not the time and place.
Don’t - Follow Every Trend Sometimes, it is not smart to hop on every fashion trend. You need to be conscience of what trends you choose to follow.
Don’t - Buy Clothes That Do Not Fit You Be honest about your clothing size and buy items that are appropriate for your body type.
Don’t - Forget To Wear Undergarments Undergarments serve two major purposes, to conceal and support.
Entry #14 - Career Opportunities - December 1, 2012 Three Possible Career Opportunities 1. Buyer - I have worked in the retail business for a number of years and at a wide range of levels. I have also been fortunate enough to work for smaller, mom and pop retail companies that allowed me to gain experience in purchasing, merchandising, managing and overseeing multiple operations; opportunities it may take years to gain access to at larger companies. I would fit well in this position because I am customer conscience, enjoy analyzing trends, and in my experience, I have treated the company’s budget as if it were my own and do extensive research on cost. I also enjoy merchandising within the stores. 2. Stylist - Being a stylist would be a good fit for me because I am personable, relatable and enjoy piecing together outfits. I have been a Personal Shopper for others and think that becoming a Stylist would be a step up from that. 3. Store Manager - This is a position I have a lot of experience in and really enjoy. Maintaining a position as a Store Manager would also prepare me for opening my own boutique someday. It also allows me to have a hand in many of the areas that really interest me about the retail business.