THE BRIEF
• Tangerine Cosmetics, a company from Uttaranchal is planning to launch a range of cosmetics • Their first product is a natural cream containing Sea Buckthorn oil
ABOUT SEA BUCKTHORN
Chemical/biolo gical • Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae Rhamnoides) is an undemanding, cold resistant plant, which can grow into the beautiful bush or tree depending on the soil, climate and watering • The plant will reward the grower with nature-made multivitamins at the age of about 5 years. • Berries of Sea Buckthorn are one of the best known natural sources of vitamins A, C, E, carotenes, and are rich in several B vitamins, EFAs, flavonoids . . .
• Both male and female plants are required to have the berries • Sea Buckthorn is a source of herbal medicines, modern vitamins and nutrients well recognized around the world • It is used as an active ingredient in anti-aging and medicinal skin care products, dietary supplements and health foods with nourishing revitalizing, and restorative action • One of the main Sea Buckthron products is Sea Buckthorn oil • It is this oil that is the main ingredient in Tangerine’s new face and body cream
Benefits to skin • The nutrients are extracted from Sea Buckthorn berries in soluble form and the presence of insoluble ingredients is negligible • Sea Buckthorn extracts were traditionally utilized in the treatment of injuries of the skin and and conditions of mucous, including bed sores, burns, chronic wounds, erosions and ulcers of all kinds • The wound healing action is apparently achieved through the
combination of moisturizing, antibacterial anti-inflammatory and regeneration-promoting effects, which leads to the absence of skin irritation • Sea Buckthorn oil extract are also beneficial as nourishing and antiaging skin care and facial care, and are used in various cosmetic skin care products • Various skin care, cosmetic and dietary products made of Sea Buckthorn have been traditionally popular in different parts of the world for their rejuvenating, restorative and anti-aging action
Medicinal
• The efficacy of Sea Buckthorn oil to promote the recuperation of skin injuries and treat skin diseases has been confirmed by data from modern clinical trials and laboratory studies
• At the present time, Sea Buckthorn medicines are used in many countries to promote the recovery of various skin conditions, including burns, ulcers, bad healing wounds, skin damaging effects of sun, therapeutic radiation treatment and cosmetic laser surgery
• The medicinal value of Sea Buckthorn oil is associated with its apparent ability to promote the regeneration of the skin and mucous membrane
• Preparations from Seabuckthorn berries are also utilized to prevent gum bleeding, to help heal the mucous membranes of the stomach and other organs
Myths, legends • The berries of Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae Rhamnoides) are so rich in vitamins and nutrients that it has been even speculated that the plant must have been specially developed by some ancient plantbreeder • Legend tells how the ancient Greeks used Sea Buckthorn leaf in a diet for race horses, hence it's botanical name "Hippophae" shiny horse • According to another legend, Sea Buckthorn leaves were the prefered food of the flying horse – Pegasus and allegedly was helpful in getting him airborne
• One of the most striking legends refers to the custom in some ancient kingdoms to execute convicts by dropping them into barrel of boiling oil • The legend tells that if the oil in the barrel was substituted by the Sea Buckthorn oil, the convict had a chance of survival • That last property of Sea Buckthorn has not been recently tested (!), but clinical trials and scientific studies conducted during the 20th century in several countries have confirmed the medicinal and nutritional value of Sea Buckthorn
• The first references to the medicinal use of Sea Buckthorn were found in the Ancient Greek texts attributed to Theophrastus and Dioskorid and in classic Tibetan medicinal texts, including "the RGyud Bzi" (The Four Books of Pharmacopoeia) dated to the times of Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD) • Herbal remedies obtained from Sea Buckthorn were traditionally used for the treatment of diseases of skin and digestive system
• Sea Buckthorn is a traditional medicinal plant in many European and Asian countries. • It's popularity in America is somewhat delayed, due to the fact that Sea Buckthorn is not native to this continent • Similarly to many medicinal plants, brought over the centuries to the New World by the immigrants, Sea Buckthorn was, apparently, introduced to America by Russian immigrants at the beginning of 20th century.
ABOUT THE NAME
• Sea Buckthorn is spelled sometime together as Seabuckthorn or SeaBuckthorn. • The correct English spelling is Sea Buckthorn • The name might be related to the fact that, in England, the spiny shrubs and trees (it can grow either way, depending on the soil and climate) of Sea Buckthorn used to grow on sand dunes along the sea beaches • Similarly, the German name for Sea Buckthorn - Sanddorn may be translated as sand thorn or sand spine
• In recent years, due to the expansion of Sea Buckthorn products into many new markets, the combined spelling: Seabuckthorn or SeaBuckthorn became quite popular as well • It is also worth mentioning that Sea Buckthorn has nothing in common with regular Buckthorn – these are two different plants from different families
THE INTERNATIONAL NAMES OF SEA BUCKTHORN
• Sea Buckthorn is called Oblepikha in Russia, Sanddorn in Germany, Argousier in France, Espino Armarillo in Spain, Finbar in Sweden, Tindved in Denmark, Rokitnik in Poland, Yashildoo Chatsargana in Mongolia. • Tradition of medicinal use of Sea Buckthorn in Central Asia regions stretching around the Himalayas (Mongolia, Russia, China) probably has been acquired from Tibetan medicine
• Indeed, Sea Buckthorn is a traditional component of Tibetan herbal medicines where it is called Star-Bu or D'har-Bu • In India, the best quality of Sea Buckthorn is sourced from the Himalayan foothills of Arunachal
CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF SEA BUCKTHORN
• Studies conducted in 20th century have confirmed the numerous beneficial nutritional properties of Sea Buckthorn • The berries appear to be an unsurpassed natural source of vitamins A and several other carotenes, vitamin E and several other tocopherols • Sea Buckthorn berries are second only to Rose hips and Acerola in vitamin C content • They are also rich in several other vitamins, including B1, B2, K and P as well as numerous flavonoids
• Furthermore, the berries have a remarkably high content of essential fatty acids and phytosterols. • Biological studies suggest that the restorative action of the Sea Buckthorn oil may be in part due to its high content of essential fatty acids (EFA), carotenes, tocopherols and phytosterols, which are all important for the maintenance of a healthy skin
• The EFA content in the Sea Buckthorn oil extract is 80 – 95% • Major EFAs are oleic (C18:1) and linoleic(C18:2). Others are pentadecenoic (C15:1), palmitoleic (C16:1), heptadecenoic (C17:1), linolenic (C18:3), eicosenoic (C20:1), eicosadienoic (C20:2), erucic (C22:1) and nervonic (C24:1).
• Among the carotenes found in Sea Buckthorn are alfa- and betacarotenes, lycopene, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, taraxanthin and phytofluin. Tocopherols are mostly represented by vitamin E and gamma-tocopherol • Phytosterols of Sea Buckthorn include beta-sitosterol, beta-amirol and erithrodiol
HERBAL OIL EXTRACTS IN TRADITIONAL HERBAL MEDICINE
• What is the difference between herbal oils obtained through expression, solvent extraction, steam distillation or any other method? • Sea Buckthorn oil is an example of traditional herbal medicine formulation called oil extract • Just like alcohol extracts are obtained by the extraction of herbs with ethyl alcohol, oil extracts are extracted from herbs with vegetable oils • Olive oil is used most frequently, Almond, Apricot and several others oils are utilized • Occasionally, butter was also employed for extraction
• The overall content of oils in some herbs is not sufficient to make efficient use of a press • On the other hand, steam distillation works only for volatile (essential) oils and may de-activate some temperature-sensitive bioactive nutrients, important for biological action • Extraction with organic solvent is frequently utilized for the manufacturing of food additives and flavors from herbs
• No-one will argue that direct oil extraction is preferable to organic solvents for skin care products • Supercritical CO2 extraction is sometimes mentioned as a viable alternative to direct oil extraction • At the same time, it is known that the chemical composition of supercritical CO2 herbal extracts is not identical to those extracted with oil • CO2 extracts may be depleted in nutrients, present in oil extracts, and responsible for the health beneficial action
• Clinical trials and scientific research conducted to demonstrate biological activity, therapeutic efficiency and safety of oil extracts have not been repeated with CO2 extracts • Last, but probably, most important, the body of knowledge of the healing effects of oil extracts, acquired over centuries of trials and mistakes, are applicable to oil extracts only – until proven otherwise • This is why Tangerine has chosen oil extraction as its method of production for its cream
TWO TYPES OF SEA BUCKTHORN OIL
THE TWO TYPES
FRUIT SEA BUCKTHORN OIL SEED SEA BUCKTHORN OIL • This is a yellow, oily combination of fatty acids obtained from Sea Buckthorn seeds • Seed oil is a good source of essential fatty acids, similar to Olive, Almond, Borage and other seed oils, and may be used as a dietary supplement
• This is a red to brown oil obtained from the whole fruit • Fruit oil is similar to traditional herbal medicine used to treat various skin conditions, wounds, ulcers and as an ingredient in various cosmetics • It contains a wide variety of ingredients
SEA BUCKTHORN OIL EXTRACTS FROM TANGERINE
• Sea Buckthorn oil extract manufactured by Tangerine has only two ingredients: Sea Buckthorn berries and high grade extra virgin olive oil • Sea Buckthorn oil extract is obtained from the Himalayangrown berries of Sea Buckthorn by multistage extraction into extra virgin olive oil • The extraction technology is based on the method originally designed in Russia, where Sea Buckthorn oil became available as a commercial product more than 50
• It has been further improved with advanced biocompatible techniques to develop a safe, effective, stable, all-natural skin care product. • Sea Buckthorn oil extract is an all-natural product, free of artificial additives, residuals of organic solvents or any synthetic contaminants whatsoever • Bodyshop Sea Buckthorn oil skin cream will not leave any residue as all ingredients will be absorbed and assimilated by the user’s skin
FROM "THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ESSENTIAL OILS" BY JULIA LAWLESS
"Many perfumes or oils, once obtained from flowers are nowadays produced almost entirely synthetically. In the pharmaceutical industry these chemically constructed products are called 'nature identical’ . . . However, the so called 'nature identical' products and the naturally occurring essential oils are of an entirely different character, which is related in their relative cost - the synthetic types being much cheaper to produce than the genuine ones. . . . It is also the specific combination of constituents in a real essential oil, including the trace elements, which gives it value therapeutically. The reason for this might be that these minute amounts of trace elements have a synergistic or controlling effect on the main ones. 'Nature identical' oils can not be used therapeutically as a substitute for the naturally occurring aromatic materials, not only because the subtle balance of constituents is lost but also because they lack the vital life force of oils of natural origin."
Sea Buckthorn lotions from other brands Weleda – Body lotion – 200 ml – 1,298 rupees Fabindia – Moisturizer – 200 ml – 1,200 rupees Lavera – Body lotion – 200 ml – 1065 rupees Seabuck Wonders – Body lotion – 200 ml – 1000 rupees Aubrey Organic – Body lotion – 200 ml – 630 rupees Kappus – Body lotion – 200 ml – 166 rupees
Other herbal lotions Forest Essentials – Body lotion – 200 ml – 1,075 rupees Shahnaz Herbals – Body lotion – 200 ml – 615 rupees Biotique – Body lotion – 200 ml – 200 rupees Lotus Herbals – Body lotion – 200 ml – 174 rupees Himalaya – Body lotion – 200 ml – 130 rupees Emami – Body lotion – 200 ml – 100 rupees Ayur – Body lotion – 200 ml – 90 rupees
Anti-inflammatory
Anti-bacterial
Anti-aging
Moisturising
15 - 25 rs
YES
YES
NO
YES
25 - 35 yrs
YES
YES
YES
YES
35 - 45 yrs
NO
NO
YES
YES
45 - 55 yrs
NO
NO
YES
YES
55 - 65 yrs
NO
NO
YES
YES
Information needs 1.
Awareness about Sea Buckthorn, reactions to the word
2.
Products they use
3.
Preference of herbal/natural products over artificial/synthetic
4.
Preference or aversion to medicinal products
5.
Specific skin needs
6.
Cost
7.
Physical attributes of products – smell, colour, etc
8.
Time spent on beauty/appearance daily/weekly
9.
Multi-purpose creams better than single special needs creams?
10. Home remedies vs. purchased remedies 11. Bad experiences with skin care products 12. Belief in skin care promises 13. Exotic ingredients – good or bad? 14. International or local brands?
USP Anti-aging + Moisturising (market space) Sea buckthorn No residue
Market research Body shop Olay Forest essentials Fabindia L’Oreal Kiehls 1.Ingredients 2.Price 3.Position, strategy 4.Outlets 5.Variants 6.Anti aging and added benefits 7.Range 8.Packaging 9.Colours, smells