Sadar
ki galliyon se 1
2
Contents
1. Acknowledgement 2. Preface 3. Bihar 4. Sadar Gali 5. Facilities Available 5.1. Education 5.2. Health care 5.3. Community 5.4. Atm 5.5. Local Market 6. Crafts Practiced 6.1. Sandal Making 6.2. Zardosi 6.3. Aari 6.4. Frame Making 7.Social status of Artisians 8. Problems and Solution 9. Banwari Toli 10. Map 11. Introduction: Aari 12. Tools 12. Material Used 13. Steps 14. Products, costing and Market 15. Artisians profile 16. Problems, Solution and Conclusion 18. Bibliography
5 7 9 13 17 21 24 27 28 32 34 36 38 40 43 46 48 49 51 53 55 57 59 67 71
3
4
Acknowledgement
In truth, we could not have achieved our current level of success without a strong support group. It was a privilege that the proficient faculties of NIFT PATNA, Mr. Lokesh Kumar visited the streets of Sadar Gali along with the students to provide proper guidance which undoubtedly helped in intensifying the knowledge pool of the entire team. We would also thank the common people who helped and cooperated with us in developing an idea of the place.Their humble acknowledgement and meticulous involvement made the research field providential and gregarious to the taste of the researchers.
5
6
Preface
Mohallahs are more than infrastructure: they are communities of individuals and families with different backgrounds, needs and aspirations. Properly understood, managed and planned, cities have potential to provide great benefits proving to be solution to many of today’s challenges. An attempt to explore the streets of Sadar Gali and see it through our own kind of perspective, certain skilled observations and explorations have been done by the students of National Institute of Fashion Technology, Patna. The basis of the document is to give an idea of Bihar and Patna City followed by elaborate study on Sadar Gali. As the world is progressing into an advanced age with improvements in all sphere, it is creating vast opportunities for employment and progress. It covers the social, physiological, politcal, socio-cultural, technological aspects of the place. It takes you closer to the lives of the people, education scenario, communities bond, local markets, facilities available etc.
7
8
bihar
9
Bihar’s antiquity is evident from its name, which is derived from the ancient word “VIHARA” (monastery). It is indeed a land of monasteries. Hindu, Buddhist, Jain, Muslim and Sikh shrines abound in this ancient land where India’s first major empires rose and fell. Where the ruins of the worlds’ earliest university slumbers in the void of time. The passage of Ganga, flowing wide and deep enrich the plains of Bihar before distributing in Bengal’s deltoid zone.
BUDDHISM AND BIHAR Bihar is the birth place of Buddhism because it is the place where the divine light of enlightment was showered on Gautama Buddha . It was a place where buddha attained enlightment ,delivered his first sermon which was called “dharama charkra pravartana”, and announced his “parinirvana”.
10
State Bihar with Patna as the capital.
PRE-MAURYAN DYNASTIES UNDER MAGADHA EMPIRE Brihadrath dynasty: Brihadrath was the earliest known king of Magadha. Jarasandha was the the famous king of the dynasty and was the son of Brihadrath who succeeded his dynasty.
Haryanka dynesty:
Ajatshatru succeeded Bimbisara. First Buddhist council was conducted under his patronage. Uday in succeeded Ajatshatru who founded the city of Patliputra and made it capital city.
Shishunga dynasty:
Shishunga was founder of the dynasty. During this dynasty rule, Magadha had two capitals- Rajgir and Vaishali. second Buddhist council was organised under the patronage of Kalasoka.
Bimbisar was the founder of the dynasty. He expanded the Nanda dynasty: boundaries of his kingdom The dynasty was founded by through matrimonial alliances. Mahapadmananda.
MAURYAN EMPIRE Mauryan period witnessed the developments in every field of human existence like social, political, cultural, religious or economic. The empire had its capital at Patliputra. It was ruled great rulers like Chandragupta Maurya, Bindusara and Ashoka. Magasthenese divided the Maurya society into seven castes- philospher, farmers, soldiers, herdsman, artisan, magistrate and councilors.
11
Geographical Location: Soil of Bihar: Main Rivers: Height above Sea Level: Climate:
Total Area: Connectivity:
Geographical Boundaries:
Physiography, Flora & Fauna:
State Capital:
Important Bridge:
No. of districts: Population: Most Populous districts: Festivals:
Art and Craft: Important Fairs: Common Languages:
12
Between 24º 20’ 10” and 27º3’15” North Latitude 83º 19’ 50” and 88º17’40”Eastern Longitude. Clay Soil, Sandy Soil, Loamy Soil. Ganga , Saryu , Gandak ,Bagmati , Koshi , Sone ,Punpun , Phalgu 173 feet ( 53 meters ). Temperature: Varies from a maximum of 44ºC in Summer to a minimum of around 5ºC in the Winters, Medium to Heavy rainfall. 94163.00 Sq.Kms.(2001 Census). Bihar is well connected by roads. NH 30 & 31 connects Varanasi, Lucknow, New Delhi and Kolkata. National Waterway No. 1 is used for cargo transport between Haldia (West Bengal) and Patna. Air services connect Patna with Kolkata, Ranchi, Lucknow, Kanpur, Delhi, Guwahati, Ahmedabad, Allahabad and Kathmandu ( Nepal ) . State is well connected by railway network - with major city of Kolkata, Delhi, Ranchi, Bombay, Varanasi, Jammu, Guwahati etc. North: Nepal South: Jharkhand East: West Bengal West: Uttar Pradesh Physiographically the entire state is part of the Ganga-Plains. The formation of plains have come out with sediments deposited by the River Ganga, Gandak and Sone. The River Ganga divides whole Bihar into two physical divisions- the north Bihar Plain and South Bihar Plain. The river system is the lifeline of the state. PATNA Patna was known in ancient times as Pataliputra, Pataligrama, Pushp Pur, Kusumpur and Azimabad etc. The Mahatma Gandhi Setu (The Longest River Road Bridge, across the River Ganga which connects North Bihar (Hazipur) and South Bihar (Patna). 38 10,40,99,452 (2011 Census). Patna, East Champaran and Muzaffarpur. Chhath (Oct.- Nov.), Jeutia, Teej, Godhan, Buddha Purnima, Shrawani Purnima (Kanwar Festival: when Pilgrims collect holy water from the Ganga at Sultanganj and offer it to Lord Shiva at Deoghar (Jharkhand), Madhu Shravani of Mithila,Pitripaksha etc. Madhubani Paintings, Appliqué work, Bamboo products, Jute products. Harihar Kshetra (Sonepur) Cattle Fair is one of the biggest Cattle fair in Asia. Shrawani Fair of Sultanganj. Hindi, Urdu & Local Dialects (Bhojpuri, Magahi,Maithili).
sadar gali
13
ABOUT PATNA CITY Patna an ancient and historical city was founded in 6th century bc by Ajatshatru. Patna received his current name during the reign of Sher Shah Sur. He believed that the name of the city Patna is derived from the name of goddess Patan devi.
Patna has been influenced by: -Haryanka dynasty -Nanda dynasty -Mauryan dynasty -Gupta dynasty 14
Patna is the short form of its earlier name Patliputra. Patliputra has been an intrinsic part of ancient India’s two great enoires- the Mauryas and the Guptas.
MEDIEVAL PERIOD:
BRITISH PERIOD:
In the nid century Patna became a part of Delhi sultanate,but by then it had lost its prominence as the learning and arts centre of india.during the reign of sher shah suri in the 16th century, the city returned to its formar glory.one of the first mosque in patna was built by alluddin hussani shah,the ruler pf Bengal in year 1489.it is known as begu hajjms mosque. patna is birth place of guru govind singh ,the last sikh guru.gurudwara harmandir sahib is considered as one of the most important takts in Sikhism.
During British rule, Patna was a prominent commercial and trading hub in the Eastern India subcontinent. In 1620 they established a factory to purchase and storage of calico and silk. Patna was also home to two of the important freedom struggle movements, namely the Champaran movements and Quit India movement in 1942. Patna has continued to be the capital of Bihar after Independence in 1947. However Bihar state was partitioned in year 2000 and Jharkhand with capital R.anchi was formed a separate state.
SADAR GALI Being the most oldest part of Patna, Patna city has its most vintage feel with the Ganga preserved. Initially due to presence of station and port nearby, the market of Patna was first established here. But with time because of the development of other parts of Patna and outskirts,Patna city lost its charm. People started migrating due to better educational and health facilities growiing in Patna. Due to Patna city being the oldest areas in Patliputra region, we can still see old vintage or a century old houses. With time, due to political and partial economic influences, Patna City detoriates as compared to other areas of Patna.
15
SADAR GALI: MAP 9 TO 9
ASHOK RAJPATH POLICE CHOWKI
KRISHNA TALKIES
KHAJEKAB POLICE STATION
SONAR TOLI SRIKALE HANUMAN MANDIE
PAKKI GAURAIYA JAMA MASJID KALI MANDIR
BANWARI TOLA LALA TOLI
CHOTI BAZAR
SADAR
GALI
TEEN RAAH MASJID
HAZARI MOHALLAH
MASJID AASHOOR KHAN
NOON KA CHAURAHA
ENTERTAINMENT AND FOOD POLICE MARKET MASJID MANDIR
16
education
17
Education is Self- Empowerment Education helps you gain sufficient academic qualification so that you are able to get suitable employment at a later stage. Growth in Personal Aspiration, On the Job Efficiency Those who have amassed enough education, steer the path of development and progress for their country.
As for our area, the quality of education services are not satisfactory. There are plenty of schools but almost all of them provide only basic education. there is just one school that provides education till class 12, Khadimul Islam High School.
Khadibul Islam High School
Khadibul Islam High School is a coed muslim school run and managed by Wthe classes extend upto 10th class with Computer science as an extra subject. Recently board exams were conducted.
Name: Afreen Age: 14yrs Occupation: student of Khadimul Islam High School During the conversation, she tells us that she aspires to become a teacher. She also mentions that boys and girls ratio is comparable. she studies in 7th class and has classes for Englis and computer science as well. There is not much emphasis on extracurricular activities.
18
FACILITY OF EDUCATION PROVIDED IN PATNA CITY 1. Mount Mercy Academy 2. Khadimul Islam High School 3. New ST.Joseph’s School 4. Parlance Public School 5. Honeykids International School 6. New Kids Care School 7. Children World School 8. City Montessori School 9. Marwari High School
Mount Mercy Academy
Name: Wasiorah Rehman Age: 38yrs Occupation: Runs an NGO and work as a Principal at Mount Mercy Academy During the conversation, he tells us that he has spent a lakh in authority of Noon ka Chauraha. But the outcome is not fruitful, 80% of the people are labour. People here consider education as a mean only to satisfy there basic needs needed in there upbringing. they dont promote extracurricular activites. To attract more students, they offer free snacks, books and scholarships as well. Gender equality and equality on the grounds of religion is promoted.
19
As the area majorly resides population of backward class, proper education services are a must to propel the upcoming generations forward. Though the schools advertise themselves as really good schools, they’re not really that good in terms of quality of education, infrastructures and the facilities provided to the students. If seen optimistically, the area provides basic education which is a must, later on, the students can opt for higher education from other schools in town. The quality will improve in the coming times for sure.
20
health care
21
A healthy nation they say is a wealthy nation. Healthcare is important to the society because people get ill, accidents and emergencies do arise and the hospitals are needed to diagnose, treat and manage different types of ailments and diseases. Many of people’s aspirations and desires cannot be met without longer, healthier, happy lives. The healthcare industry is divided into several areas in order to meet the health needs of individuals and the population at large.
22
All over the world, the healthcare industry would continue to thrive and grow as long as man exists hence forming an enormous part of any country’s economy. Healthcare is defined as the diagnosis, treatment, prevention and management of disease, illness, injury, and the preservation of physical and mental well-being in humans. Healthcare services are delivered by medical practitioners and allied health professionals
The area of our visit particularly had wide healthcare coverage, not government, but private clinics. there were a total of 4 private clinics, consisting of both homeopathy and allopathy medicines. there is a Hospital as well, Ruban hospital, which had modern equipments, trained staffs and modern facilities to take care of patients. A govt research institue on UNANI medicine is also present in the locality. Overall, the area possesses more than just basic healthcare which is very important for an area as such. In case of any emergencies in the industries, healthcare can be very easily and quickly accessed.
MEDICAL FACILITY PROVIDED IN PATNA CITY BY 1. Regional Research Institute of Unani 2. Santosh Medical Hall 3. Gurugobind Singh hospital 4. Jaiswal Medical hall 5. Ashraf clinic
23
community
24
Sadar Gali is a compact area with a population of 46222 where people of all religion lives together friendly promoting the equality of religion . The community’s economical condition is a lot good because of the availability of job opportunities for skilled , and hard working peoples . And for the one who wants to start up there new business. This particular community has a lot of tailents and skills with respect to art n craft n many more. Of which some of the crafts are being practiced on a daily basis or on an industry level ,and with the other side where there are persons who have a lots of tailents and wants to explore but r way behind to step forward. This community is always busy with their work and always try to upgrade and enhance their work to meet the market demand .
25
atms
26
An automated teller machine (ATM) is an electronic banking outlet, which allows customers to complete basic transactions without the aid of a branch representative or teller. Anyone with a credit card or debit card can access most ATMs. The first ATM appeared in London in 1967, and in less than 50 years, ATMs spread around the globe, securing a presence in every major country and even tiny little island nations such as Kiribati and the Federated States of Micronesia.
You can withdraw cash at any time, day or night. The banks don’t need to be open. ATMs offer the convenience of multiple locations. You can withdraw cash at any bank that is part of the system to which your ATM card is linked. Your ATM card is protected by a PIN, keeping your money safe. You don’t need to fill out withdrawal and deposit slips as is required at the bank. ATMs are faster than going to the bank— no long lines. You can withdraw cash at ATMs in foreign countries.
You don’t have to carry cash around with you. There are many ATMs like Bank of baroda ,SBI atm, Bank of India. there’s a bank as well, Madhya bihar grameen bank. The presence of ATMs and Banks in this particular area with a radius of about 500m is a good thing for the local people, the workers as well as the industry as a whole. The workers can keep their hard earned money organised in the bank. there is no need for them to keep cash with them all the time. The earned mon-
ey can be deposited the very moment. As for the industry as a whole, the presence of instant banking will increase the cash flow and expenditure of customers in the locality which in turn will only help the industry’s growth.
27
local market
28
Music - band services
Jewellery stores
Clothes store and Tailor shop A local market is a standard feature of a daily life. Given the market role is ensuring basic amenity for a population, markets are often highly regulated by a central authority which is lacking in this place. The market is always crowded. The shops are very small but very resourceful. One can buy
almost everything there. The are variety of shops available in sadar gali. Some sell fruits and dairy product, some sell groceries, some sell gift item and stationery. One can find shops selling electronic goods. There are shops for repairing damaged things also. Medical store and small sweet shops.
The local market made lives very easy all day-to-day items are available at a comfortable distance. The local market of Sadar Gali is very big yet congested, Âź of the population of family living in that area depends upon the income earned from the local market.
29
Tea vendor Fruit sellers
Fruit sellers
People earn there lifestyles by opening small tea stalls offering various food items. Hawkers even sell some products and services to earn a livelihood. Though they don’t earn much but they manage to make a livelihood. Not just the men but also th women of the family do small errands to earn a life.
Plastic products retail store
30
Departmental store
Other shops include Kites, Boxes, Brassware, Cosmetics, Paper, Photo Frames. Hawkers selling Gola, Icecream, Golgappa etc .
Clothes
Kites
Brass containers
Boxes
Lemonade
Frames
Cosmetics Paper
Stationery
31
Sandal making
32
Sandal making is a process of making footwear. Sadar Gali, Patna City is hub for hand crafted shoe industry. This industry gives employment to more than 100 people living near by. They produce a range of footwear items, including shoes, hells , flats and sandals. Such items are generally made of leather,
Wood, Rubber, Plastic, Jute or there plant materials, and often consist of multiple parts for better durability of the sole. Process: Step 1: Trace feet and select shoe style and leather. Feet, like fingerprints, are unique. Step 2: Hand cut uppers and soles from pattern pieces. Step 3: Punch, stitch and as-
semble uppers. Step 4: Stitch uppers and soles together. Step 5: Last, cure, burnish and lace. After the completion of the process the final product is sold in between 130-200 Rs.
33
zardozi
34
The traditional art of decorating the cloth by using various precious and semi-precious materials was called as Zardozi. This distinguished style of traditional Indian embroidery has been learned and practiced by a generation in various parts of Sadar Gali, Patna City. It became popular among the affluent Hindu, Muslim and foreign people. Zardozi is believed to be one of the oldest and most lavish embroidery
styles in India. The delicate hand created work is treasured since time immemorial. Sadar Gali has revived this old craft to supply exquisite zardozi embroidery work. Material & Tools Used: Adda (Wooden Frame), Aari (Needle), Gold and Silver Threads, Metal Wires, Dabka and Sitara, Kardana (Beads), Shiny stones, Fevicol, Tracing paper, Kadiya (Chalk Powder),
Mitti ka tel (Kerosene) Technique: Zardozi is the work of a skilledhand of the artisans and their cre-ative designs. The process of Zardozi is divided into following steps: • Tracing • Setting of Adda • Embroidery • Finishing End Product It is commonly used Saree, Lehnga, Suits and etc.
35
aari
36
The charm, glow, attraction which every women wants in her lifestyle is something which aari work gives . These are designed on a frame that resembles a cot in which the thread work is done with a special needle that has a hook at the end
. Aari work involves a hook, ailed fro. The top but fed by silk thread from below with the material spread out on a frame ,the fabric is stretched on a frame and stitching is done with a long needle endingwith a hook such as a crewel,tam
bourine,or lune ville work. the other hand feeds the thread from the underside ,and the hook brings it up ,making a chain-stitch ,but it is much quicker than chainstitch done in the usual way.
37
frame making
38
Framework is one of the major craft happening in Sadar Gali, Patna city. It requires a lot of skills and patience . There are variety of design, pattern and colours these frame makers offer . Framework is in demand for every season . But ever since the introduction of plastic frames their market is going down. Frames are made
through joining four pieces of wood together at the ends Material Required include Wood , Hexa Blade, Chisel, Scale, Nails , Glue, Hammer etc. Process . The first process is to cut the woods onto size and then the second process is to use the planer machine to make a square out of
the wood. The third process is to use trimmer machine to trim the extra part from the wood and finally join assembly. Advantages include size ,reduce manufacturing process and reduce time. Disadvantages are amount of less materials.
39
social status of artisans
40
SOCIAL OF
STATUS ARTISANS
culture in to a new lifestyle, among the masses. The new generations discontinued Historical Background: their family occupations and attached towards the city in In pre-industrialized India, the search of factory, office job. community was self-sufficient in economic terms. The Artisans PROBLEMS OF ARTISANS: such as potters, carpenters, The artisans are facing many weavers, cobblers, blacksmith, difficulties and problem these tailors, goldsmiths, plumbers days. The importance of their etc. helped economy sustain artwork is decreasing in their on it is own. In the earlier time respective village and adjointhey most often adopted their ing towns. The quality of their forefather’s vacations; their role output is decreasing, and they was significant in maintaining must face great competition rich cultural life. Consequently, with the industrial sophistithis enclosed self-sufficient cated products. Major factors life-style paved the way to rich which are responsible to their cultural traditions and practices. failure in this regard can be In self-sufficient isolated listed and explained as under: villages. After the harvesting 1. Illiteracy of Artisans: operations were over pleasant Mostly artisans are still illiterhousehold used to give a ate or uneducated and some of traditionally determined them are not educated up to the share out of their output to metric level. Their illiteracy also craftsmen and artisans and a crucial factor which disposed other. Due to progress of of their family occupations. Bemarket economy this age-old cause they are not aware of the bond of community living was various policies and strategies of destroyed, and the artisans marketing and various artisan. and craftsmen started getting Programme organized by the payments for their service in state and central Government. rupees, right at the time of doing 2. Non-Availabilithe work. Due to increasing ty of Raw Material magnetization of trade in areas Due to industrialization these enterprising artisans started artisans are facing the problem to go out of their village in of non-availability of raw matethe search of customers. This rials. For this raw material they process continued through must depend upon the middle the independence movement. men and dealers on a very high Lack of capital, inferior price and even of the poor qualtechniques and absolute look ity. So, these artisans must shift and equipment were the main as a labor to agriculture sector. weaknesses of the artisans 3. Income Level of Artisans and craftsmen. The artisan and The income level of artisans craftsman of village suffered is also a main constraint for very much. The weavers, them. Most of the artisans are potters, cobblers, goldsmiths still below the poverty line. and oilmen and dyers etc. They cannot purchase good all of them could not escape quality of raw material, modand fight with the completion ern tools and equipment’s. network transformed the 4. Use of old and Ob-
solete Equipment’s Most of the artisans basically engaged in handicraft or handloom business are using their old and obsolete tools, machinery and equipments which caused a drastic effect upon the quality and quantity of their output. 5. Lack of Financial Assistance These artisans have to depend on money lenders for their financial requirements, who charge a great interest to their loans. However, government, have announcement loans on concessional rates and finance for tool-kits and equipments, yet that is not enough. They are still waiting to be awarded which can help them to survive their business and linked to the modern industries. 6. Seasonal Demand of their Product The demand of the product of artisans like, potters, weavers, carpenters etc. are quite seasonal in nature. There are so many factors which effect their sales as crops, festivals, marriage and other social and cultural factors. In addition, the maximum part of their sale is on credit because their main customers are persons, who make their payments on the crops and in exchange of food grains. They get their necessary goods throughout the year from these artisans. Hence, these poor artisans get their payment only two or three times in a year. 7. No means of Transportation and Communication These poor artisans are lacking the various facilities of transport
41
tation and communication in area. They have to depend on the means of transportation provided by the landlords on high in addition to this they have no distribution centre from where they can distribute their products. They have to get the fairs and melas organized in the cities, where they can get some fair prices of their artwork. 8. Shift of customers towards the Industrial Products The growth of industrialization the demand of their product decreased substantially and attracted the buyers towards the machine made, good looking, and attractively packed products. The rapid growth of media communication and transportation Network transformed the culture life in to a new life style among the masses. 9. Lengthy Production Time Normally about 3-5 months’ time is required for production of Artisan products. Sometimes it even ex-
42
tends up to 7-8 months depending on the intricacy of the design. 10. No Regular Work to Artisans The artisans are not directly related to the manufacturer for work. One contractor of the area procures the work from the manufacturers and distributors it to the artisans. 11. Very Less Wages to Artisans Due to the job distribution by the contractor, the artisans who are the actual masters of the art not get their due wages. The normal earning of an artisan is just Rs. 150 to 500 per day. 12. Poor Workplace Conditions of Artisans The workplace conditions of the artisans are quite poor. Usually they do work at their home along with their regular household work. The kachaa homesteads tend to soil the cloth to be embroidered and also the poor light and hygienic conditions of the work place adversely affect the health of the artisans. 13. Lack of Awareness about Market Most of the artisans
have been making their products directly to the customers at their work place only. They are not aware about the bigger markets for their products. 14. Lack of financial Resources Due to lack of financial resources, these artisans are not able to buy raw material in bulk. This makes their production cost higher and profit makes their production cost higher than profit lower.
Also, they are not able to build a big inventory needed for whole sale marketing, as revealed by researcher. 15. Affection for their Native Place Affection for their native place is also one of the reasons for their non-migration. 16. Feeling of S a t i s f a c t i o n The artisans, in spite of their meagre earnings, feel satisfied and live a life of limited need.
problems and SOLUTIONS OF COMMON PEOPLE
43
Problem 44
1. “Lack Of Civic Sense’’ Civic sense is the need of the hour . Individualism, vandalism, intolerance, racism, road rage etc. are all examples of lack of civic sense. 2. Child Labour , smalls kids are often seen working on a local shops instead of going to schools. 3. “Lack of Good Infrastructure” the buildings are very old and have lost its charm and strength so the lives of the family living in such old buildings are constantly in danger. 4. The education quality is very poor and due to which the students suffer a lot. 5. The students does not have much options for higher education. 6. Very less job opportunity for educated class. 7. Roads are very congested and not properly maintained by the authority. 8. Ignorance of hygiene and healthcare. 9. Poor work environment for the working class. 10. Many schools are just in name on boards but are not functional either due to lack of funds or non-participation of students. 11. Government offices are not taken well care of.
Solution
1. An awareness program can be conducted for making them aware about the civic sense, the child laboured education issue for the people living and working in Sadar gali. 2. Reinforcement of the old buildings will not only help them to strengthen but also will increase the life of the infrastructure. 3. A letter stating the issue of health and road can be send to the State government. 4. A committee can be formed for keeping an eye on the work environment of the working class 5. This will help them not to get exploited by their employer. 6. For the problem of electricity issue we can write a letter to the electricity board with all the facts and figure as Sadar Gali is a commercial street, so by providing electricity it will only help in the growth of the local market.
45
banwari tola: AAri
46
BANWARI TOLA Situated in Sadar Gali ,Patna city, this small locality has a majority of muslim population and has the most units of zardozi and aari in the region. Comes under Khajekalan police chauki and has a pincode 800008. Being 2 Kms away from noon ka chauraha, the area is
densely populated with daily wage workers. The local market includes basic departmental stores and small scale stores. A number of schools and religious places like temples and masjids can be spotted in this region.
47
AARI UNIT BANWARI TOLA
KALI MANDIR
SADAR GALI
TEEN RAAH MASJID
48
I NTRODUC TI ON : A a ri Aari work is a type of embroidery which is done on a stretched fabric and stitching the design with a long needle which has a hook in the end. The needle technique origins from the mocha community who use this type of needle to stitch intricate patterns on leather footwear. The needle is named as Aari, from which the embroidery work derives its name as Aari work. This work consists of beads, stones, golden and silver threads which gives a royal richness to the design. Aari work is known for its elegant thread work that enhances
the gravity of hand embroidery. Aari work has marked its existence from 12th century i.e. from the time of Mughal ruling. With time the work has spread to places like Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, Rajasthan, Gujarat , Bihar and other places who added their touch of traditional design and recognized the specialty of the work. Sliding from the families of the ruling kings and the queens, today, the craft can be seen on any teenager’s cap or top, with the traditional gear of various states, like footwear, sarees, chaniya cholis , of a bride or on festive attire.
Like other States this work has made its mark even on Bihar, India. Skilled workers use the aari work to enhance the footwear , sarees, lehnga, salwar kameez and sherwani. Sadar Gali a Place in Patna city, Bihar also locates the richness of aari work. Group of men and women who learned the traditional art teaches other people and give them a chance to make their living better by earning some amount. They are involved in embroidery, aari work and stitching of clothes.
49
TOOLS
Adda (Wooden Frame): It is a wooden adjustable frame consisting of four wooden bars. The cloth on which the embroidery is supposed to be done is stitched on the two horizontal bars and stretched. It is then fixed tightly and locked on the other two vertically parallel bars. This prevents the cloth to move while working and also enables clear vision and faster movement of the tools.
Aari (Needle):
Needle is the main tool in the Aari embroidery. It has a hook at the tip and wooden handle at the back.
Work ring:
For pracitising on small patches at home, an aari work ring can be used to hold the cloth tightly for doing the Scissors: A pair of scissors are needed to cut embroidery. the strings and the embellishments wherever required.
50
RAW M AT ERI A L S The raw materials required for making Aari embroidery are procured from the local market in bulk and stored for later use. The materials used are as following:
Zari Gold and Silver Threads: Simple plain wire is called as Badla. These Badlas are sometimes wrapped around a thread and is called Kasav. The twisted wire is called as Nakshi.
Metal Wires:
Metal wire made out of copper and resham threads. Anchor threads are also commonly used these days.
Kardana and Poot ki Mooti (Beads):
Artisans also use beads as and when required. These beads come in different shapes and sizes and are named accordingly. The glass beads with cylindrical structure are called Kardana and very small spherical beads are called Poot ki Mooti.
51
Dabka and Sitara:
Rhinestone:
Dabka and Sitara are used as embellishments Rhinestone is used as an embellishment in the in the Ari embroidery. These are spring kind of design. threads. They are cut into small size and used as per the requirement. Sitara are small spangles, golden or silver color.
Shiny stones:
These are available in different shapes, sizes and colors.
Fevicol :
It is used to paste the shiny stone on the cloth. Tracing paper is used for tracing the motifs.
52
Kadiya (Chalk Powder):
It is used in the solution for tracing the motifs. Mitti ka tel (Kerosene Oil) is used to mix with chalk powder. The design is traced using this and then made.
MAK I N G PROC E S S Initially the required type of fabric is stretched and tied to a frame to remove loose folds. With the help of a lead pencil or chalk powder the design is traced on the fabric. After tracing combination of color threads or golden thread is embroidered along the traced design. Aari needle is pushed through the fabric and thread from the reverse side is hooked in the needle and pulled out from the upper side. Needle is again inserted in the fabric a little distance away from the previous pierce and pulls the thread out locking the previous stitch. This process is continued till the required pattern is formed.
STEP1: TYING
Designs are embellished with golden or silver threads known as zari and are embroidered with stones and beads which gives the fabric an elegant rich look. Once the design is embroidered the fabric is tied to the reverse side and fabric glue is applied on the design to strengthen the stitch so that the threads don’t get loose and come out. Artisans in Srikalahasthi are specialized in Kalamkari patch work. The themes of Kalamkari art is converted in applique work and the embellished with embroidery and beads work. Compared to other aari designs Kalamkari work is more in demand.
STEP2: TRACING
STEP3: ADDING BEADS
STEP4: PLACING NEEDLE
STEP5: DOING AARI
STEP6: CUTTING THREAD
53
STEP 1:
STEP 2:
Pierce across the cloth with the needle and hang a loop from within using other hand.
Pull out the thread out of the cloth from the top to make a loop.
STEP 3:
STEP 4:
Move a little distance where the needle has to make the lock.
Push the needle inside again.
54
STEP 5: Rotate the needle by half a circle.
STEP 7: Pull the needle out of the cloth from the same hole it was pushed in.
STEP 6: Push the needle inside again and wrap another loop from bottom.
STEP 8: Rotate the needle half a circle again and repeat.
55
In a cloth with same repeating pattern done with colourful threads, the artisians first sketch the design. Then they complete the embroidery of the first colour in all the shapes then move to next colour. Beautiful colours and pattern are made on odhinis, sari borders, dupatta etc.
STEP: 1
STEP: 2
STEP: 3
STEP: 4
STEP: 5 56
PRODUC T S , COS TI N G a nd M A RKET Hand embroidery is well known all over India. This art is practiced almost every part of India with their own traditional designs touch. Aari work is one of the most famous and well known arts of India from way back of time. The product made depicts royal look and richness of hand work. The design themes are flowers, animal and bird figure like elephants and peacock design. Their work specialty is Kalamkari patch work, which is done on all type of attire. The designs are embroidered on blouse pieces, dress materials, sarees and Churidar. The work is mainly done by women artisans; lately even men have joined the work.
Chappal patches: Rs. 60 for a pair
Saree border: Rs. 700
Neckline design: Rs. 500
Saree design: Rs. 400
57
Dupatta:
Rs. 35per patch
Blouse: Rs. 750
Motif for lehnga
Suit Material: Rs. 1000
Despite of being the hub of crafts in Patna, the market place of aari is comparitively narrow. Getting mixed opinions about the market place and scope of aari , different artisans had there different problems regarding this. From shipping the products to Dubai, to being jobless during 3 non festive months of the year, aari craft surely is a roller coaster business. Md. Chand a 41 year old artisans sells his goods to Delhi, Mumbai, Dubai and Iliyaz Ahmed , an artisan specialize in chappal patch have its tie up only to few businessmen in and around Patna. ‎
Market where the goods sells Major markets of Patna : Boring road ,Maurya lok , Khaitan market, Patna market , Hathwa market. 58
ARTISIANS PROFILE
59
Name : Md. Sallu Age : 60 Occupation: Aari artisan Oldest of all the artisans working under Md. Chand, Md. Sallu is having an experience of 12 years makes him the best in his work. A relative of Md. Chand. ’’I gave everything to this job but this never lifted my status of living but I want this craft to grow and more people to practice this not for living but with interest’’. says the artisan. Having one son in Qatar and one in shoe making business, he is not the only one earning in the family.
M D. S A LLU
60
Name : Md. Sameer Age : 21 Occupation: Aari artisan
M D S A M EER
A daily wage artisan, working under Md. Chand for 4 years. Earning 200-300 a day seasonally. Migrated from samastipur to patna for employment finds this job really profitable and want to continue this in future. Staying away from family pushes him more to do best at his work. Being an expert in his work , he explained how he completes a whole fully worked zardozi lehanga in just 3 days working 12-16 hours day. ‘’I totally want to expand this art through internet or manual mediums if this will help our community to grow’’ He says.
61
RI Z WA N KHAN Name : Rizwan Khan Age : 23 Occupation: Aari artisan A 23 year old artisan, Rizwan started learning the work from 10 months now. Unemployment pushed him to come to this field. His father is a daily wage worker and mother is a homemaker. ‘’Earning Rs.300 a week is not sufficient for my family , I have no other choice but to work here’’ says Rizwan Khan. When asked to show us how zardozi/ aari works , he taught us some basic motifs to work on. He is not willing to carry forward this craft if he gets anything else which will help him earn more money.
62
I L I YA S A H M ED
Name : Iliyas Ahmed Age : 25 Occupation: Aari artisan Owner of an Aari unit rented from an Ex police officer, Illiyas specially works on patchwork used in chappal making, earning 60 rupees for a pair of patchs. Having 3 workers under him, he gets very less after paying everybody. ‘’We have shoe making industries collaborated with us and they give us order according to the demand’’ says Iliyas Ahmed. ‘‘Its very sad how modern designs and fashion these days is replacing our work and people are inclining towards that a lot. That is the reason we are not loosing our business day by day’’ He further added. He has a daughter and don’t want his daughter to struggle this much in her life. He wants her to study well and become a teacher.
63
MD. TA B I S H
64
Name : Md. Tabish Age : 23 Occupation: Aari artisan An artisan from Iliyas Ahmed’s unit, practicing the craft from 4 years now, ‘’I don’t want to continue with this for the rest of my life and want to do something else for a living, I make very less money and don’t get much work the whole year, its seasonal ‘’ he said. Collaborated with the businessmen, they get orders from in and around Patna city. ‘’ I don’t want to promote this craft even if government wants to help’’ said Md. Tabish when asked about whether he wants to expand his business. According to him the artians should get atleast 400-500 rupees per day as it is very intricate work.
Name : Md. Tipu Age : 27 Occupation: Aari artisan Only artisan in the unit doing Aari only with the embroidery threads, making beautiful Mithila motifs on a chunri. ‘’I dont earn much money here, I get money on the basis of how many hours I work and how much I work but want to continue it because it is respectable’’ says the artisan. Practising the craft for 3 years now makes him confident enough that he can continue it for his living. He explained how he lived in Satna earlier and after his fathers death he had to come to Patna to do something for his living.
M D TI PU
65
MD C H A N D
66
Name : Md. Chand Age : 37 Occupation: Aari artisan Owner of a zardozi unit having 8-10 artisans working under him. Dealing with mainly lehangas and sarees. Being a resident of Patna itself, practicing the craft for 8 years now. ‘’Everyone you meet will say they don’t get profit in this job but we get proper profit and work to do’’ says Md. Chand while talking to him. Earning 12-15 thousand rupees in a month completes almost his every need. His Family is indulged in inherited shoe making but he is practicing zardozi. His unit is tied up with big businessmen situated in Patna and outskirts. Using technology on his side, receiving orders on whatsapp and delivering it in Delhi, Mumbai and even Dubai.
problems sUGGESTIONS and conclusion
67
Problems 68
a. Lack of skills b. Less exposure to Info & Tech. c. Lack of formal Training d. Absence of non- farm policy e. Marketing support f. Non-competitive products g Unable to thrive competition h. Application of traditional left over technologies i. Neglect by state and central Governments j. Non coverage under agricultural relief programmes k. Non-involvement in development programmes l. Lack of skill improvement and technology upgradation m. Lack of specialised markets n. Non-existence of infrastructural facilities o. Non availability of quality raw materials p. Weak financial power q. Inability to get bank loans r. Poor access to information s. Lack of linkages with different developmental Institutions t. Need of social security Mechanism
1. Invest in basic training that is provided by the government. By investing in basic training that occurs within the workplace environment, This will increase the efficiency of the artisan. The artisan is then able to receive the literacy skills that they will use all their lives.
Suggestions
2. There are more than 1000 of Social media plat form to boost up the small-scale business. The social media platforms such as Facebook, Insta gram, Twitter is the most powerful tool this generation has and if someone uses this tool carefully they can help their business to grow on a large scale. 3. The artists should have to use new equipment, which is easy to use and more fruitful than the prevailing ones. The grinders and cutters can be introduced these days. They are very time-con suming. 4. With the change in the outlook of the present customers, artists have to work accordingly, which can fulfill the requirement of the customers. 5. Marketing is very essential for a business, which is the main and growing problem in this business. Govt. should take necessary action regarding this problem. An artist individually can also solve this problem by opening websites and through advertisement and for that he should. 6. A touch of modernization will only help this to survive in the contemporary world. 7. Workshop in design institute will help them in educating the younger generation about the craft. 8. Awareness about the schemes for loans and how they can utilize such schemes efficiently.
69
Conclusion 70
1. Consistent quality of products prevail in Patna city. 2. Inadequate market study and marketing strategy. 3. They have capacity to handle very limited order. 4. Artisans are not well educated about the market. 5. They follow same old design as a result customers are getting bored. 6. They don't have proper market exposure. 7. Low capital investments. 8. Seasonal demand of products in market.
Bibliography
* http://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/chennai/ Zardozi-Embroidery/article12552436.ece http://bstdc.bih.nic.in/patna.htm http://www.shoepassion.com/shoe-encyclopedia/ shoemaking https://www.google.co.in/maps/place/ Sadar+Gali,+Khamji+Begum+Colony,+Patna,+Bihar+800008/@25.5983676,85.218350 9,17z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m5!3m4!1s0x39ed5f71b57e8623:0x34f6ec0a1ec83877!8m2!3d25.59836 76!4d85.2205396 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Patna_City
71
CLUSTER B OSS
CONTENT RESEARCHERS ANJALI KUMARI SURRENDER SAH SIMRAN SHREE RADHE VEDIKA TRIVEDI APARNA SINGH NITISH KUMAR ANVITY SINGH
CONTENT EDITORS ANJALI KUMARI SURRENDER SAH SIMRAN SHREE RADHE VEDIKA TRIVEDI APARNA SINGH
LAYOUTING
APARNA SINGH
PHOTOGRAPHY
APARNA SINGH SURRENDER SAH
ILLUSTRATORS
NITISH KUMAR ANVITY SINGH
72