Lake Mattamuskeet a Hidden Gem for Birdwatchers

Story by Vernon FueSton

PhotoS by John MauSer & ed corey

OOne of North Carolina’s hidden gems for the daytripper is the Mattamuskeet Wildlife Refuge near Creswell.

For three to four months out of every year, thousands of majestic Tundra Swans spend the winter on Lake Phelps and form a sea of white on the 16,600-acre lake.

Each winter, hundreds of dedicated birdwatchers make the trek to Tyrell County. There they can view the swans from the bank or drive out on the causeway, where the state operates an observation deck. Cars can travel the causeway to the middle, where they can get a panoramic view of North Carolina’s largest natural lake.

Tundra swans are massive birds that weigh between 13 to 20 pounds. They are snow-white in color with black feet and black bills that bear a canary yellow spot.

The birds live out their summers along the Alaskan and Canadian tundra’s west coast, where they nest and raise their young.

Each winter, they migrate more than 4,000 miles to the American East coast. There they winter in shallow ponds and lakes from Maryland to South Carolina, where they take advantage of the comparatively warmer water temperatures. The water in Lake Phelps stays at a balmy 57 to 34 degrees all winter.

The swans love Lake Phelps because of its shallow waters, allowing them to feed on bottom vegetation by “dabbling” with their bills on floating bits of vegetation. They can also paddle with their feet to bring bits of food from the bottom.

For especially inviting morsels, the swans will upend themselves and graze with their heads underwater and their feet in the air, allowing them to feed as deep as three feet under the surface.

If one is going swan-watching, it’s best to learn the terms. A male swan is called a “cob,” while a female is a “pen.” A flock of geese is called a “herd,” but if the herd is on the water, it is technically a “bank.” If the herd takes to the air, it becomes a “wedge.”

A thermokarst lake, Lake Phelps was formed during the ice age when North Carolina’s coast was permafrost. Cracks in the permafrost would widen due to dry conditions and high winds that formed depressions. Those eventually grew into the massive freshwater lake we see today.

The lake has a maximum depth of nine feet with an average depth of four and one-half feet. Near the shore, the water is more shallow, making conditions perfect for the swans.

Scientists say that the first humans inhabited the area around Lake Phelps as early as 8,000 BC. That is the age of the oldest artifacts found in the area.

A Native American dugout canoe was found in the lake that was 4,000 years old. White explorers “discovered” Lake Phelps in 1755 when Josiah Phelps and his partner, Benjamin Tarkington, entered what was known as the “Great Alligator” region, looking for game and farmland.

Discouraged by all the swampy conditions, Phelps climbed a tree to scout the area for a route back home. That’s when he saw the lake a short distance away.

Legend has it that he ran ahead of the party and impulsively waded into the water. As the first white man to swim in the Lake, everyone agreed he should name it.

The Mattamuskeet Wildlife Preserve is operated by the N.C. Division of Parks and Recreation. The park will be undergoing a major renovation this year, so call ahead for information on access and the availability of tours.

Chip Trofple, Superintendent of Mattamuskeet Wildlife Preserve, said visitors will get their best views of the swans in the morning or evening hours when the birds are resting. He suggested timing your visit when the weather is clear, and the waters on the lake are not choppy. The views of the lake at sunset are spectacular, he said.

The park opens at 8 a.m. and will be closing at 6 p.m. during renovations, which should end around March 1.

After that date, the park will close at 8 p.m. Even during renovations, the causeway observation deck will still be open. Visitors can also see the swans from the bank at the park's Cypress Point location.

The preserve is located near the town of Fairfield on Highway 94, which continues across the lake, cutting it in half. An observation deck is operated by the state halfway across the lake. Their number is (252) 797-4475.

Vernon Fueston is a longtime contributor to Eastern North Carolina Living, the Chowan Herald and the Bertie Ledger-Advance.

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