NEW ZEALAND

H O M E , S W E E T H O M E

Closed borders have brought a new appreciation for travelling in our own country writes Stephanie Holmes

It wasn’t quite how I imagined my first two

years as Travel Editor would be. I started the job in November 2019 and just four months later — before I’d had the chance to jet off to any international destinations — our borders closed. But, as we have all discovered since March 2020, staying home is actually a good thing. Aotearoa New Zealand has an abundance of riches when it comes to travel and — when alert levels allow — I’ve thoroughly enjoyed getting to know them. So, after two years of domestic travel, here’s my insider’s guide to the best New Zealand travel experiences to add to your 2022 bucket list.

Stay in a private house with an epic view

If you’d prefer a more private holiday, where you can self-cater but still enjoy luxury surroundings and priceless views, The Hawk House (pictured above) is for you. Available to rent on Airbnb, the property is in between Cromwell and Wānaka in the foothills of Mt Pisa. Suitable for up to six adults, stock up on supplies in Wānaka and local Central Otago wineries, then settle in — once you see the view you won’t want to leave. Other options: The Glass House, Whangārei Heads

Stay in a luxury lodge

If you’re looking for a more homely experience but want the “home” in question to be fit for royalty and billionaires, New Zealand’s luxury lodges are the place for you.

Huka Lodge (pictured) is the Queen’s favourite — she’s stayed at the internationally renowned Taupō property three times. I’ve stayed once, and can confirm it’s the perfect place for a special occasion getaway or bucket list treat.

The three Robertson Lodges — Northland’s Kauri Cliffs, Hawke’s Bay’s The Farm at Cape Kidnappers, and Queenstown’s Matakauri — also come with this Travel Editor’s seal of approval. Each offers the same exceptional level of service and fine dining, but all have their own individual styles and subtleties to suit the local environment they’re situated in. Other options: High on my list for 2022 are The Landing in Northland, Minaret Station in the Southern Alps (see p30), and The Lindis in Ahuriri.

Stay in the penthouse of a luxury hotel

The America’s Cup didn’t bring the hordes of international tourists Auckland was hoping for but it did bring a raft of brand new hotels in prime locations.

Treat yourself to a touch of luxury for a city break (or staycation) with a night or two at The Hotel Britomart and Park Hyatt. Both have incredible penthouse suites available for extra special stays.

The Hotel Britomart (pictured) has five Landing Suites to choose from, three of which have their own open-air terraces where you’ll feel as if you’re living in an Upper East Side New York dream.

At the Park Hyatt, choose from the 141sq m Chairman’s Suite, or the 245sq m Presidential Suite, the latter of which has a private outdoor garden as well as 125sq m furnished balcony.

My pick for the best views in Auckland is the Hilton down on Princes Wharf. It’s not as new as the others, but the top floor Bow Suite will never get tired — expansive views of the Harbour Bridge, North Shore, Rangitoto and beyond mean you’ll find it hard to do anything other than sit on the balcony and gaze at the changing light on the Hauraki Gulf. Other options: Sofitel Queenstown’s Penthouse No 10, The Penthouse at Eichardt’s Queenstown.

Have dinner cooked by an internationally acclaimed chef

To get a taste of Aotearoa, head straight to Wellington’s Hiakai, Monique Fiso’s (pictured) contemporary fine-dining restaurant that in 2019 was named by Time magazine as one of the 100 greatest places in the world. You’ll need to book well in advance — reservations are released seasonally but snapped up almost immediately. Sign up for the restaurant’s newsletter to receive alerts on when the next round of bookings open.

It will be well worth the wait — thanks to appearances on Netflix’s The Final Table and alongside Gordon Ramsay on National Geographic’s Uncharted, Fiso’s unique approach to indigenous ingredients has made her one of the world’s most acclaimed chefs. You can bet as soon as international borders open, those seats will be even harder to secure. Other options: In Auckland, head to Josh Emett’s Onslow and Peter Gordon’s Homeland. In Central Hawke’s Bay, visit Wallingford to enjoy the exceptional cuisine of chef Chris Stockdale.

Walk, cruise or fly to Fiordland

Picking a favourite place in New Zealand is like picking a favourite child — impossible. However, after various trips over the past few years, I have discovered that Fiordland is a place I could return to time and again. I suggest you do the same.

For active relaxers, a fully guided multi-day walk is an absolute must-do. Try the Routeburn Track with Ultimate Hikes, or the Hollyford Track (pictured) with Ngāi Tahu’s Hollyford Wilderness Experience. While you still have to walk the walk (the Routeburn is 32km and the Hollyford is 45km), you will only be tasked with carrying a day pack. When you reach the well-appointed private lodges at the end of each day, gourmet three-course meals will be cooked for you while you enjoy a fine wine or beer and rest your weary feet.

A visit to Milford Sound is essential for any Kiwi but take your exploration of the region even further with a cruise to Dusky and Doubtful Sounds. Fiordland Discovery’s Fiordland Jewel takes a maximum of 18 passengers to the inlets and islands of the area, with kayaking, fishing, hiking and good food a requisite part of each day.

Both the Hollyford and Fiordland Discovery experiences include a helicopter flight for a bird’s eye view of this stunning, vast, secluded region. The beauty will blow your mind. Other options: Take a guided Kepler Track heli-hike with Trips and Tramps; Stay at luxury accommodation like Milford and Fiordland lodges.

This is just the beginning of the multitude of once-in-a-lifetime experiences available in New Zealand. To keep up with the latest and greatest things to see and do, read our regular magazines in the Herald every Tuesday and Sunday, and visit us online at nzherald.co.nz/travel, and Facebook and Instagram — @nzhtravel.

W A N A K A ’ S W O W

Craig Tansley discovers a Jacuzzi and a helicopter on his lawn at one of New Zealand’s finest laid-back lodges

It’s doubtful that Norwegian Sondre Norheim, the father of modern skiing, imagined a ski “hut” like Whare Kea Lodge when he invented downhill skiing in the 1870s. Or that Russian Igor Sikorsky, inventor of the helicopter, envisaged a time and a place where one of his creations might land on a perfectly manicured Gatsby-like lawn, and whisk a couple straight from their outdoor Jacuzzi — champagne in hand — into a private chalet on top of a remote snowy mountain range. While this all sounds pretty decadent, inside Whare Kea Lodge the vibe’s as down-homey as if you were staying with friends or family. But then… you will be (more on that later). Nestled in amongst New Zealand’s Southern Alps and built just above Lake Wanaka (you have direct access to it if you fancy a swim, in winter the water’s a jolting 9 degrees, but in summer it’ll get up to a swimmable 20 degrees), Whare Kea Lodge is located on 28ha of private farmland (complete with lambing ewes) just 10 minutes driving time from town. Once you arrive, you can pretend the world outside doesn’t exist; just hunker down in a private lodge that fits a maximum of 12 guests in six bedrooms and stare through floor-to-ceiling windows at the green waters of Lake Wanaka and the mountains that change colour with the time of day. There’s a handy neighbour though, should you

It’s simply breathtaking skimming over snowdusted mountains, emerald green valleys and spotting tumbling waterfalls and meandering streams on the way to the South Island’s luxury Minaret Station Alpine Lodge.

The lodge fits snugly on the western side of Lake Wanaka between Minaret Burn in the south and the Albert Burn in the north. Head swivelling is in full force on the 30-minute fancy a stroll. Walk on a path beside the lake to Rippon Vineyard and do a tasting of their award-winning pinot noirs with the same view you have of the surrounding mountains. Set on 60 hectares of a family farm, Rippon were one of the pioneers of the Central Otago wine region. You can walk to Wanaka too if you like to stretch your legs — and when you’re done, call your guest house manager for a lift home. It’s hard, however, to leave the lodge behind for too long.

It’s easy to escape the real world at Minaret Station, writes Sue Wallace

Designed by renowned Melbourne architect John Mayne, the brief from owner Martyn Myer (of the Myer family retail dynasty) was to ditch the stiffness often associated with the kinds of high-end boutique hotels in Whare Kea’s price range. It had to be luxurious, but Myer wanted an intimate place with no formality; because who needs to dress up for dinner on a ski or hiking holiday? He borrowed principles from Japanese architecture and made sure to include floorto-ceiling windows so none of the views are wasted.

helicopter hop from Queenstown Airport to the remote highland retreat among some of the world’s best scenery. You just don’t want to miss anything.

Nature in all her glory stars here and as you climb out of the helicopter, the magnificent landscape stops you in your tracks. It’s one of those moments in time that you want to remember forever as you stand still and soak up the grandeur of the vistas.

Bordered by national parks, mountains and Lake Wanaka, there are no roads at all leading to the lodge — helicopter is the only way in.

Alpine Group sales general manager Penny Hayes is used to seeing startled reactions from guests who come to experience the secluded lodge and unique experiences.

“It is hard to describe the feeling guests experience flying into Minaret Station for the first time, and truly getting a feel for this special and unique place,” she says. “It is the sense of time standing still, as you escape the ‘real world’ in the truly extraordinary location. It provides guests with some of life’s most precious elements — time, fresh air and open space.”

We settle into our home for two days, one of four secluded luxury chalets with a king-size bed, ensuite, a hot tub that beckons and a private deck with magnificent views. In no time, a desire to connect with these mountains creeps up and we are in luck, the weather is promising as we plan our excursions.

There’s much to appeal to the adventurous traveller and those who just want to savour the landscape from their deck or stride out along the raised wooden boardwalks. A day hike takes guests from alpine environments to waterfalls, through native beech forest, and high-country farmland. A day helicopter experience can whisk you from glaciers to fiords and ancient beech forests, viewing unique wildlife and dining on fresh seafood in locations that are usually inaccessible.

Minaret Station is a working farm owned by the Wallis family, who farm deer, sheep, and cattle. It rises from 304m at Lake Wanaka to 2194m at the towering Minaret Peaks. The Alpine Lodge itself sits at 914m up a spectacular glacial valley on the property.

Every season provides its own surprises that allow guests to enjoy the location year-round. “The longer days of spring and summer allow for further exploration, as the snow melts from the surrounding mountains by November, returning in May,” Penny says. “Winter is when our heliskiing kicks off, and we can share the best of more than 800 heli-ski runs through our Southern Lakes terrain.”

In other words, it’s the ultimate treat come what may. “Each of our trips goes beyond the beaten path to allow guests to experience the very best of the re-

F A C T O R

DETAILS

Book Whare Kea Lodge for one to six people for $3800 per night, or for 7-12 people for $4600 per night. The lodge comes with an on-site manager.

wharekealodge.com

The Myer family have owned the property for nearly two decades and have taken note of what travellers passing through are looking for. They found most craved individual, private experiences, so they converted the property from a lodge where guests could book individual rooms and share communal spaces, into an exclusive retreat that guests must book out as a group (there are rates per night for groups up to six, or up to 12). Guests have full use of a fully equipped kitchen to cook their own meals, or they can use private chefs for some, or all meals. That way, you can have as much privacy — or pampering — as you choose.

“Offering exclusive hire allows the property manager to work with guests ahead of arrival so they have the best stay for them,” property manager Gillian Boyes says.

But the coup de grace of Whare Kea is its chalet, one of the world’s most spectacular alpine accommodation options. Picked up from the lodge’s helipad by helicopter then flown over Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps, you’ll land on a mountain peak high in the Mt Aspiring National Park (at 1750m), then hike down to your own private chalet in the snow (even in summer) 50km from the nearest intrusion. A mountain host will take care of all your needs; meals come with views over New Zealand’s tallest peak, Mt Cook, 120km to the northeast. It’s a 20-minute flight to the lodge, guests can book a scenic flight with a hosted chalet lunch, a day trip, guided heli-skiing to and from the chalet (in winter) or overnight hosted retreats.

Harris Mountain Heli-Ski can also land on the lawn at Whare Kea Lodge and take you to one of more than 4000 heli-ski runs in more than 200 nearby peaks in seven separate mountain ranges.

Though if you’d sooner get to your ski resorts the old-fashioned way — by road — New Zealand’s most under-rated ski resort, Treble Cone, is only a 35-minute drive away. With its views over Lake Wanaka and the Southern Alps, cheeky kea and challenging ski bowls, it’s easily the best ski resort in the South Island. In summer, hikers can drive up to its mountains to traverse the rugged terrain, provided you complete an online safety briefing.

If hiking is your passion, you’re right next to some of the best hiking trails in New Zealand with more than 750km to cover. There’s everything here from short hikes to multi-day hikes — though a halfday hike might suit you best, so you still enjoy all the comforts of the lodge. One of the best half-day hikes in the country is only a short drive away — you’ll cross a swing bridge into beech forest on the Rob Roy Glacier walk, finding waterfalls and glacier views along the way.

You’re also 10 minutes drive from Wanaka, home to some of the country’s top-rated regional restaurants and multiple activities, from winery day trips to fly fishing tours.

gion, and view some of the world’s most spectacular scenery, without a doubt,” Penny explains.

Fancy deeper adventure? There’s backcountry fly fishing, heli-skiing, hiking, mountain biking and guided hunting available. Our Fiordland Heli Traverse excursion is a day of viewing astounding nature from majestic glaciers, ice formations, alpine lakes, wildlife and fiords. Fresh barbecued lobster from the West Coast is a lunch highlight, accompanied by stunning views.

We later land in the snow at the beautiful, isolated mountain lakes and next we are skimming over wave-battered beaches as we follow the coast home.

There are many “pinch me” moments from the time we take off to our return. Later we enjoy canapes and bubbles fireside, followed by an amazing dinner at the Mountain Kitchen in the main lodge.

Star chef Alistair Wilson uses the freshest produce and seafood from the rugged West Coast, including paua, crayfish, kina, blue cod, groper, and albacore tuna. Tender Minaret Station Te Mana lamb, grass-fed Angus beef, and wild alpine venison are often served. It’s a culinary adventure devoid of foams, gels, soils, or anything unrecognisable, instead it’s all about delicious tastes matched with some of the country’s best wines.

Back at our chalet, I can’t resist the bubbling hot tub as I gaze at the clear night sky carpeted with twinkling stars that light up the dark shadows of the towering peaks. Regardless of what you choose to do here, the mountains have a great physical and spiritual charm and you just want to reach out and touch them.

When you visit Minaret Station, it doesn’t take long to realise it’s the striking unforgettable landscape that takes centre stage and is well-deserving of a standing ovation.

DETAILS

Rates for up to two guests start from $2950 per chalet, per night (autumn) and from $3250 per night in summer.

minaretstation.com