FROM THE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF’s DESK… The conflict of interest between what the nation needs and what industry wants, has always been a great balancing act for Governments when announcing budget allocations and proposals. The recent budget announcement for the Financial Year 2017-18 has been no different. While in certain areas, the national interest in terms of the masses has been safeguarded, in other cases efforts have been made to support growth of the industry. While the industry is happy with the increased allocation for improving infrastructure, concerns regarding increased taxation burden on the industry are afloat. Gas prices are already increasing substantially and with imposition of 15% VAT on gas and power price, the cost of fuel and power will reach a new peak. For the garment industry that operates on very less profit margin, this rise may be devastating and some fear it may even cause closure of many businesses. It is being widely said that no significant amount has been allotted for the encouragement of industry; instead the Government has presented a budget that proposes apparel exporters to pay 1% of their export earnings as source tax which was previously 0.7%. This has really been a blow to the industry. Industry bodies are demanding that Government should reduce the source tax to zero per cent as the garment sector has been passing through a bad time. The industry is also not happy with the reduction of the corporate tax of garment factories to 15% from 20% at present. It is not enough to cover up the extra cost of operations that the companies are facing today. BGMEA has demanded a reduction in the corporate tax at 10% and cash incentives at 5% for at least the next two years so that the sector can face the challenges of falling export, stemming from a volatile global economy. There has also been a suggestion that companies running ‘green’ factories should be ‘rewarded’ and the difference in the corporate tax for the garment factories and ‘green’ garment factories should at least be of 5% as this would encourage companies to set up more ‘green’ units, which will save more energy and water. In the current budget, the Finance Minister has proposed 14% corporate tax for the ‘green’ units, just 1% below that of other industries. It is being argued that while cost of production increased by 18% in last two years, exports have declined by 6.80% in the US market and by 5.91% in the UK market in July-April period of the current financial year. Also, the industry that has witnessed over 13% growth over the last 10 years has seen the growth decline to less than 3% in recent months which is a cause of great worry. The next two years are extremely critical in deciding where the industry will go; hence strong support from the Government at this juncture is very important. We can all hope that the Government is listening!
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MINDTREE
Q-and-A Has the 46th National Budget for the Fiscal Year 2017-18 been as per your expectations? Any special sops/initiatives that you would have liked to include for the garment industry to further boost up its growth and development? Please share your views…
Sultan Ahmed, Managing Director, RASAFASHION INTERNATIONAL/S&S Fashions International As a garment manufacturer, I cannot say that the 46th National Budget has fulfilled our requirements. We are especially concerned about Source Tax which we have to bear at 1% against our export value. We know very well that after payment of material cost, accessories cost, workers’ wages, utility bills, banking and logistics expenses, a factory may not get more than 2-5% of export price considering how competitive the global apparel market has become in terms of price. So from this 2-5%, if Government claims 1% as Source Tax, I do not think this is logically just. Bangladesh garment factories are continuously losing the strength to compete with other rival countries in exports. Since last few years, we could not even achieve our export targets and this year too, our export growth is below 3%, which is a big indicator of how slow business is. Our Government should understand the realities while also considering the fact that RMG sector is earning over 80% of the country’s total export earnings besides offering employment to a large chunk of the population. Nowadays, it is very hard to earn much more from garment exports as buyers are continuously asking to reduce prices; adding to which are increasing production overhead costs, labour costs, energy (electricity, gas, etc.) as well as utility costs. Further factories are investing a lot on structural development/remediation as per buyers’ compliance requirements. Also to be taken into account with context to Budget is that the Government is yet to declare the incentive of 5% for the next two years which our association (BGMEA) claimed for before the Budget. This incentive is necessary to strengthen the sector and give it a competitive edge.
Our aim is to cooperate with the Government and help grow our country’s economy by earning more foreign currency and create more job opportunities for our people and build a happy nation.
A.F.M. Sarwar Mahboob, Director, Tusuka Apparels Ltd. The Budget for fiscal 2017-18 is quite business-friendly from my perspective, as any kind of tax deduction is good for business. However, due to global crisis, business has become little difficult and to survive in this scenario amidst rising global competition, our Government should provide some facilities. As such, I would like to recommend the Government to cut the rate of Tax at Source for next couple of years, which would be of great help for the RMG business.
Syed Nurul Islam, CEO, Well Group Considering the reality, I should say the Budget has been more or less on the expected lines. The Government has reduced the Corporate Tax for RMG to 15% from 20% whereas other sectors are paying 25%. As for new initiatives, I think we need to explore new markets based on Government-given incentives for new market access. Beside that, I was expecting source tax at 0.70%, as it was earlier.
Sarwaruzzaman Khan, Managing Director, BSA Group Considering the reduction of Corporate Tax from 20% to 15%, I should be happy with the Budget. But due to some unprecedented steps taken by the Government in the proposed Budget, I’m not fully satisfied. These days business has become difficult due to rising competition. Bangladesh is facing consistent challenges from its fierce competitors like Vietnam, Cambodia, India and Pakistan and if the Government fails to support the industry properly, it’ll be difficult for us to retain our market position. So, I would like to request the Government to make Budget more business-friendly.
Md. Kayum Mollah, Chairman, KNA Sourcing Ltd. This Budget is not good for the business community. Finance Minister has increased the Tax at Source to 1% which is no positive news for the business, and I would like to echo the demand of BGMEA which earlier maintained that the Government should cut the rate of Tax at Source for at least next 2-3 years.
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NEXT MINDTREE QUESTION
The growth of the Bangladesh apparel industry has apparently slowed down in the last couple of years? What (factors) according to you could arrest this decline and boost further growth? Please share your views…
COVER STORY
SHIRT – A STORY OF GREAT POTENTIAL AND UNFULFILLED PROMISES… Once the mainstay of Bangladesh’s exports, shirt as a product category is lagging behind others, and there are multiple reasons to it
The second largest garment exporter globally, the contribution of shirts in shaping the destiny of the Bangladesh garment industry is beyond question. Starting its journey as an apparel export hub in 1980s with quality formal shirts, shirt as a product category has been a key growth driver for the Bangladesh apparel industry over the years, complemented aptly by knits and bottoms (non-denim and denim) at later stages that helped the country cement its position as the preferred sourcing destination for the global buyers. With increased efficiency and expertise, the shirt manufacturers have started catering to all the major brands and retailers globally including names such as H&M, US retail giant Walmart, British retailer Primark, Germany’s posh brands Hugo Boss and Olymp (formal shirts), and many, many more.
n the global shirt market (as perdata from Statista, one of the biggest data management company in US and EU), which stood at US $ 51 billion with total consumption of 2.5 billion pieces in 2016 and is expected to reach US $58.5 billion (in terms of value) and 2.83 billion pieces (in terms of volume) by 2020, Bangladesh’s role – which contributed around 10 per cent to the total global shirt import in 2016, is expected to play a pivotal part in shaping the global landscape as far as shirts are concerned.
I
But despite this positive projection, shirt as a product category has somehow failed to keep pace with the growth of other products. “Of late we are getting more demand for sweaters, jackets, denim and other products which found base in Bangladesh after shirts. This is not to say that there is no demand for shirts, but the increase is only marginal, while for other products, the growth is very significant,” says Khondoker Mahibur Rahman, Managing Director, Stanley Fashion B.D., a buying office that sources shirts in 100% cotton, cotton polyester blends, PV,tencel, modal blends, with fabric mainly coming from China. Rahman’s statement is not a one-offcase and there are facts to substantiate his claim. Data records from BGMEA show that in 1996-97, the export earnings
from shirts was US $ 759.57 million, while for trousers, jackets, T-shirtsand sweaters, the value of exports were US $ 230.98 million, US $ 230.98 million, US $ 391.21 million and US $ 196.6 million, respectively. Fast forward to 2015-16, in terms of value (export), shirt stood atUS $ 2,317.09 million while trousers, jackets, T-shirts and sweaters registered drastic growth to touch US $ 6,319.00 million, US $ 3,774.08 million, US $ 6,118.53 million and US $ 3,182.47 million, respectively. Today knits and bottoms account for a major share of the country’s apparel exports, a trend which is rather surprising considering that formal shirt was the mainstay of Bangladesh’s exports until the early 1990s.
In fact, even as late as 2006, USretailers imported about 33 million pieces of shirts worth over US $ 2.4 billion and nearly one of every four shirts, was made in Bangladesh, but now that the US market is diverting to highervalueadded and fashionable shirts, the country is trying to find better efficiency and product development skills in making casual shirts with value that comes from different fabrics and styling options. On the other hand, better technology is also moving in as some high-end brands from Europe are looking at sourcing formal shirts, which is anotherchallenge. Few years ago, Hugo Boss started
sourcing T-shirts and formal shirts from Bangladesh from limited number of very compliant garment factories and though the volumes are not so high, ithas encouraged some bigger companies to invest in the shirt segment. The company is increasing its volume in the country every year with the improvement of the working environment and compliance practices. Another German high-end brand Olymp has also started sourcing formal shirts fromBangladesh.
“Of late we are getting more demand for sweaters, jackets, denim and other products which found base in Bangladesh after shirts. This is not to say that there is no demand for shirts, but the increase is marginal, while for other products, the growth is very significant.” –Khondoker Mahibur Rahman, ManagingDirector, Stanley Fashion B.D.
In the meanwhile, the unprecedented growth and popularity of denim (Bangladesh has overtaken China to become the largest denim supplier to the European Union and also the third largest denim supplier to the US after China and Mexico) in the last one decade is seen by many as a major reasonbehind shirt’s fledgling show. Rahman shares that about 75% of his demand is for denim today. “The way the industry has been investing in denim is unprecedented in itself, no other product hasgrown like this and today we have integrated strengths that did not exist about a decade ago, and this has been pushedby buyers who now look at Bangladeshas a major supplier, both in the basic and fashion segment,” reasons Rahman. Contributing further to the slowdown in shirt growth has been the diminishing profit margins in the basic shirts and challenges in value addition consequent to inadequate local supply of quality fabrics. Many companies have shifted their focus to other products. One such company is NIPAGroup, which has invested heavily in jackets, where the margins are much better and growth opportunities still largely unexplored in the country. “We are offering a wide variety of jackets and the buyers are very happy with our infrastructure, so the product is our growth engine. In shirts, which was once our biggest category, we are mostly now doing casual denim shirts, which is another hot product today, for our existing buyers but there is no real focus on the category as there are many players in the segment and the price offered is very competitive,” shares Md. Khosru Chowdhury, Chairman & MD, NIPAGroup. Are shirts really a stagnant segment or is its growth being overshadowed by emerging categories?Apparel Online interacted with some of theprominent shirt manufacturers and exporters to get the pulse of the shirt business in Bangladesh today and where they feel it’s headed for…
THE J O U R N E Y C O N T I N U E S … Given the challenges and bottlenecks that a shirt manufacturer is faced with, one might wonder if shirt as a product category has many takers. On the contrary, there are multitude of garment makers who not only loath at the idea to give up on shirts as yet, rather they have devoted all their resources and energy to carry forward the rich legacy of shirt making which once used to be Bangladesh’s forte; and they have their reasons for it!
onsidered an integral part of a man’s wardrobe – wheather one’s style is chinos or suit and tie – there’s no denying the importance of shirts… A white shirt still holds its sway amidst the array of fancy apparels in anybody’s closet. Be it a business meeting with clients or a weekend get-together with friends and family, white shirt continues to be the preferred choice, which finds an apt reflection in the business forecast for shirts.
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As per predictions of Statista, if the global demand for shirts stands at US $ 53.36 billion (in terms of value) and 2,580 million pieces (in terms of volume) in 2017, the same would register a steady increase in the coming years to touch US $ 55.17 billion (in terms of value) and 2,657 million pieces (in terms of volume) by 2018 to further increase to US $ 56.8 billion and 2,740 million pieces respectively by 2019. In this issue dedicated to shirts, Apparel Online handpicked a few shirt manufacturers, who have upped their capacities and competencies to cash in on the opportunity that the global shirt market has to offer.
BSA Group Currently working from its four production units, BSA Group chiefly supplies formal shirts besides trousers in addition to kidswear to US retail behemoth Walmart. Managing Director of BSA Group, Sarwaruzzaman Khan, shares his view s on shirts. Shirt business today It is not bad, but is running quite smoothly.
Sarwaruzzaman Khan, Managing Director of BSA Group
The demand scenario The demand for shirts is not bad, but overall the demand is more for casual shirts than the formal, which again is dependent on seasons. In terms of percentage, I would say 70% demand is for casual and 30% for formal. Major buyers Walmart… Apart from Walmart, we are currently in talks with Carter. Potential market (USA/Europe) As we work for Walmart, our two main markets are USA and Canada. Fabric We source the fabrics from nominated suppliers only, who are mostly from China. Bangladesh’s strength – yarn dyed or solids… Both, I would say. Production capacity/expansion We have expanded our business over the years. Now we can produce about 2 million shirts per month, and even more sometimes. Apart from
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the existing units (with combined machine strength of 7,000 machines), we have established another factory with 16 blocks, with each block containing around 100 machines. We’re also going to set up another factory within 2-3 months in Sagorika area of Chittagong. This factory will have about 15 to 16 blocks, which will increase our production capacity by about 10-15%. FOB range From US $ 2 to US $ 2.5 Turnover BDT 500 crore (approximately) Product development We have a merchandising unit but no R&D team. We use the nominated fabrics and buyers’ designs.
Dressmen Limited
Shirt business today The business is much more difficult these days as the customers are not realising how much effort is put into manufacturing quality products. The prices have dropped significantly but the demands of the customers are increasing daily… We really need to find a middle ground where the customer and the manufacturer stand to gain. Demand scenario
According to me, the demand is relevant to a company’s strength and how the company markets itself. I think people are more into casual shirts these days. Shirts that are ‘different’ are in demand… Every customer is looking for something that is unique and which has never been done before. Major buyers
Traditionally a woven shirt manufacturer (dress shirts, casuals and formals) with combined production
H&M, TESCO, VF Corporation, CARREFOUR, Li & Fung etc.
Well Group Established in 1973 by founder Chairman Abdus Salam as Bangladesh Textile Industries (BTI) in a small workshop in Chittagong to produce sewing thread, Well Group in just over four decades expanded into a conglomerate with interests in sewing threads – WELL THREAD (flagship product), packaging, food, hospitality, real estate and readymade garments and employing over 20,000 people. In readymade garments, Well Group initially started with manufacturing shirts in a very small way with just 100 machines but later shifted focus exclusively to trousers. Going forward, Well Group has now invested in a new manufacturing unit to resume producing shirts… Here CEO of the Well Group Industries Syed Nurul Islam shares his views on shirts...
Potential market (USA/Europe) I think for formal shirts, US is definitely a better market as we are doing a lot of non-iron wrinklefree shirts for it. For casual shirts, Europe is a better market as we get to work with a lot of different types of washes. Fabrics
Maashed R Abdullah, Director of Dressmen Limited
capacity of 8,00,000 pieces monthly and catering to names such as Ralph Lauren, TESCO, VF Corporation, MANGO, Eddie Bauer, Nautica, TARGET Stores, HAGGAR, Springfield, etc., Dressmen was establishedin 1984 as a partnership business with just 60 machines and 150 workers under a project loan from PubaliBank Ltd., but has come a long-long way to own five production units today with combined workforce of 4,000, and plans to establish a couple of more units soon. Director of Dressmen Limited, Maashed R Abdullah shares hisviews…
For performance and RFD fabrics, we are importing from China; we have no choice but to import because a lot of our fabrics are polyester blended and are not available at competitive prices locally. For lower end fabrics, we are usually going to the local mills in Bangladesh. Bangladesh’s strength – yarn dyed or solids? I think if one is going for yarn dyed with 100% cotton fabric, then definitely yarn dyed would be our strength as we would be working on a much shorter lead time. However for blended fabrics in solids, I wouldn’t rule out Bangladesh either as we are a big supplier for uniforms globally.
Syed Nurul Islam, CEO of Well Group Industries
Shirt business today Shirt business is good and growing in Bangladesh. Demand scenario Casual and sports shirts are more in demand. Major buyers Our target customers are UNIQLO/ TOMY/GAP/GEORGE and NEXT. Potential market (USA/Europe) Traditionally our customers are based in USA, but now we are trying to move to Japan and EU.
Fabrics We prefer our in-house fabrics as we have spinning, yarn dyeing and weaving facilities.
Accessory, Testing and their importance
Turnover (combined) US $ 100 million
M&M Shirts Ltd.
As shirt manufacturers gear up competencies and expertise to cater to new and potential markets, the importance of quality standards and value-additions have become vital parameters deciding the success and failure of businesses.
A part of Shanin Group, M&M Shirts Ltd., produces around 1,60,000 pieces of shirts (men’s formal &casual) apart from ladies blouses, school shirts &blouses. M. A. Haque Howlader, General Manager of M&M Shirts Ltd. shares his views...
Apparel Online spoke to a prominent accessory supplier and some top-of-the-
Shirt business today
KDS Accessories
Well, I would say shirt business is not at its best today. Compared with other RMG products, shirt is not the frontliner in Bangladesh any more. Fact is that, we have failed to explore markets for shirts. To grow in shirts, we would have to find new customers and new markets. Also the price from buyer must be increased; otherwise it would be very difficult to survive in the market. Demand scenario There is demand for both casual and formal shirts in the proportion of 50-50. Men’s formal &casual shirts, ladies blouses, school shirts are items that are in big demand. Major buyers Primark, Penny’s, Frank-Q, Jacks Clothing, Zara, Comma, Collins, etc. Potential market (USA/Europe) We work for the European market mainly as we feel more comfortable in the European market compared to that of USA.
line testing labs to know what they think about the shirt business and what is it
that they have to offer to achieve value-addition and set new benchmarks in quality and standards.
Based out of the port city of Chittagong, KDS Group is one of the leading multinational apparel and textile conglomerates in the country. KDS Accessories has selected its products finely intertwined with not only the evolution of its accessories business but also with the dynamic nature of the country’s apparel industry. It all started with manufacturing of corrugated cartons for packaging purposes and was sequentially followed by sewing threads, polybags, plastic hangers, tags, labels, polyester button, etc. Debasis Daspal, CEO of KDS Accessories, shares his views. Shirt Business
Shirt as a product category has good potential to grow but currently is facing some operational challenges to meet the global high standards of quality and craftsmanship. However, the growth rate of shirts significantly lags compared to that of denim and lingerie items in Bangladesh.
Fabrics Actually we procure all kinds of fabrics – 100% cotton, semi-cotton, even blends. We source the fabrics mainly from China; sometimes we also source fabrics from India, Pakistan and Indonesia. In Bangladesh, these fabrics are not available.
Accessory requirements The total number of different trims and accessories is quite substantial in various kinds of shirts depending on styles and sizes. The general requirements of some major accessories in a shirt are: Buttons (2%), Labels &Tags (1%), Carton &Poly (5%), others (7%). [The percentages are average in terms of FOB value of a garment]. Apart from the considerable value that accessories play in garments’ FOB, the complexity and varieties of any trims are also significant. Special Buttons There have been so many special polyester buttons’ requirements for any kind of shirt. The need for variety of buttons range from normal pearl buttons to horn buttons to several types of fancy buttons. Apart from the polyester buttons, several types of metal buttons and snaps are also needed in denim shirts and childrenswear. KDS’s strength to meet the accessories’ demands KDS accessories, being the foremost trims and packaging player in the country, stands tall in supplying most of the accessories needs of a shirt manufacturer in the country. Starting from providing sewing threads, buttons, all kinds of labels and print material, hangers, poly and cartons, we are the one-stop trims solution providers to any shirt manufacturer.
Bangladesh’s strength-yarn dyed or solids? In Bangladesh we can produce both yarn dyed and solids. Turnover US $ 70 million
But as more and more entrepreneurs are inclining towards higher value creation, the possibility of higher number of shirt manufacturers coming up besides capacity augmentation of existing manufacturers seems not so far.
Debasis Daspal –CEO of KDS Accessories
Our button facility ramps up overall business by developing our fancy button
facility – nickel quoting button (metal look), layer button and others. Further, we can also develop butterfly, collar bone unit in plastic division which can help gear-up sales. Over the years, KDS accessories has been working with some of the major shirt manufacturers in Bangladesh like Viyellatex, Interfab Shirt, Mohammadi Group, New Age App, Evince Group, Dressman/Shirt Maker, Shinest Apparels and several others.
Bureau Veritas CPS Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services is world’s leading testing, inspection and certification solution provider for the global consumer. It works closely with clients to effectively manage quality assurance needs throughout their supply chains and mitigate risks in terms of quality, health, safety, social responsibility and environment, thus protecting the brand’s reputation and minimize costs. Rasanga Ulluvis Hewage, Regional Chief Executive, responsible for BV Central Asia – covering Bangladesh, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia & Myanmar, shares his views...
Bangladeshi exporters on scale of 10 I will give Bangladesh 6 out of 10 and this is so because we are still not strong enough for woven fabric manufacturing and we cannot accept shorter lead time like less than 45 days. Five critical testing norms Dimensional stability to washing, Appearance after washing, Seam slippage (light weight fabric), CF to washing and CF to rubbing. If the fabric has been treated for easy-care properties, then tests for Formaldehyde, Appearance of seams and Appearance of fabric, includes the above mentioned tests.
Dr. Karthik N.D., Country Managing Director, Intertek Bangladesh
Any new testing norm Nowadays ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemical) is a very sensitive issue and everybody should know the ZDHC roadmap.
certification solutions for customers’ operations and supply chains. Country Managing Director of Intertek Bangladesh, Dr. Karthik N.D. shares his viewpoint on shirts...
Support from UL As a third-party, we have expertise in stateof-the-art testing laboratory that can help industry to ensure garment performance quality. We have expert/qualified quality inspection team for garment and fabric inspection to support suppliers and buyers and ensure good quality products.
Five critical testing norms
e. Appearance after wash
Challenges…
We provide compliance audit like, SEDEX &BSCI that can ensure workers’ health & safety. We are also offering ZDHC waste water testing, ZDHC audit and sharing knowledge about ZDHC by organizing vendor seminars.
Price and technical barrier to trade ZDHC MRSL, beside PRSL.
Intertek
Bangladeshi exporters on scale of 10 Bangladesh is No. 2 in EU and No. 3 in USA, so we could give the country 9 or 8 on a scale of 10 inshirts.
BV Support We conduct technical meetings, seminars and awareness workshops regularly to help and support the industry in various aspects.
UL VS Bangladesh Limited For over 120 years, UL has been developing scientific-based methods to test the quality, performance and safety of diverse key consumer products. Today, UL solves the safety, security and sustainability challenges of the 21st century. Around the world, UL along with its employees promote safe working and living environments for all people. UL tests, inspects, audits, certifies, verifies claims, advises and trains as well as provides software solutions. Md. Golam Sarwar, Consumer and Retail Services – UL VS Bangladesh Ltd., shares his views on shirts...
Intertek is a leading total quality assurance provider to industries worldwide through its network of more than 1,000 laboratories and offices and a dedicated workforce of over 42,000 people in more than 100 countries. In Bangladesh and across the world, Intertek offers customers a Total Quality Assurance value proposition, assisting organizations as their trusted quality partner providing ATIC (Assurance, Testing, Inspection and Certification) solutions which go beyond just assuring the quality and safety of a corporation’s physical components and assets to also look at the reliability of their operating processes. As the globally leading quality assurance provider, Intertek goes beyond physical quality control to provide total peace of mind through its innovative and bespoke assurance, testing, inspection and
In physical/colour fastness parameters: a. Seam strength/slippage b. Buttonattachment c. Tearing strength
d. Pilling resistance for synthetic blends f. Colour fastness to washing/light Analytical/RSL: If trims sourced from local factories or without nominated source the possibility of failure are as below: • Twill tape?Labels: Azo • Button/plastic accessories: Lead,Phthalate Any new testing norm Mainly ZDHC requirements and especially focusing on printed shirts/with embellishments, focusing on waste water testing, chemical management etc., in addition to product quality. Support from Intertek Increased capability for testing all requirements in Bangladesh, conducting awareness seminars/workshops – DETOX, TECHNICAL – Performance, Regulatory, Product Integrity, etc. Besides, with a focus on “TOTAL QUALITY ASSURANCE”, we have introduced “ASSURANCE” services, enabling manufacturers and brands to avoid failures by technical collaboration from initial stage of product designing until complete supply chain cycle, till consumer management, named as ATICservices.
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6TH BANGLADESH DENIM EXPO BRINGS DENIM INDUSTRY UNDER ONE PLATFORM SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS AND PROCESSESONCEAGAIN REINFORCE THEIR IMPORTANCE IN THE DENIM SECTOR... Fifty-eight exhibitors from 12 countries, over 5,000 visitors, four unique seminars and workshops and a bigger ‘Trend Zone’ with a brand new ‘Information Exchange Zone’, the 6th edition of the Bangladesh Denim Expo once again proved why it is one of the most sought-after and much-awaited denim show in the country. View from top: The sixth edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo in full swing
hemed ‘Denim Networks’, underlying the importance of
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global market in strengthening long-term relationships and mutual approach with focus on innovation and sustainability, the two-day denim extravaganza kicked off to a rousing start at the capital’s International Convention City Bashundhara on May 17, reinforcing the importance of forging business relationships and promoting best working practices. Exhibitors from Bangladesh, Brazil, China, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Italy, Japan, Pakistan, San Marino, Spain and Turkey were present in full strength showcasing the latest developments in denim that drew in
5,545 visitors from 1,029 companies and 52 countries, surpassing even the organizer’s expectations, more so considering the security concerns following the string of unfortunate incidents that had rocked the country in the recent past.
FABRICS ON THE FOREFRONT A regular participant in the Denim Expo, Shasha Denims Limited – one of the leading denim fabric producers in Bangladesh – was back again, and this time with products woven around the theme of sustainability, the company’s
thrust area in terms of offerings in the last couple of years. “This time we introduced a new theme, ‘Blue is the new Green’, through which we want to share a message with all our buyers and the denim lovers in general. ‘Blue’ means Denim and ‘Green’ means Sustainability, thus ‘Blue is the new Green’. Whatever we’re producing currently and plan to do are/and would be sustainable,” proudly declared Mohammad Jamal Abdun Naser, Director, Shasha Denims Ltd. Living up to the billing of the largest textile industry in Latin America which takes pride in innovation and novelty, Brazilian denim specialist that thrives on the concept of
“The market here is growing… Bangladesh also needs to develop infrastructure to facilitate buyers, manufacturers and exporters as a whole.” –Davide Menini, Area Sales Manager, Panama Trimmings Limited
Gazi Mahmudul Alam, Director, Mahmud Group
Mohammad Jamal Abdun Naser, Director of Shasha Denims Ltd.
sustainability – Vicunha Textile showcased a wide range of products in the expo including the latest in innovation from their sable. “We consider Bangladesh an extremely potential market and have come this time with our vintage authenticity, the authentic high ridges, our heavyweight denims, high-stretch items and luxury fabrics,” underlined Abdelkader Amouche, Regional Manager, Vicunha Textile, expressing satisfaction that the expo has been a decent business generator for them. For NASSA Denim, another big name in fabric production in Bangladesh, the stage of Bangladesh Denim Expo was the apt setting it was looking
for to display its latest innovation – antimicrobial fibres, fit for prolonged usage sans washing, thanks to the anti-bacterial properties! “This highly-specialized fabric has been used in hospitals and hotel industry earlier but never in denim jeans manufacturing and that too with dyeing…,” maintained Agha Nadeem Mirza, Head of Denim, NASSA Denim. Despite increased production cost (almost 20 per cent compared to conventional fabrics), NASSA is more than happy with the buyer’s response and looking forward to market it in countries that have good demand for such products. “We may not sell this fabric to Bangladeshi
“…In this edition there are some exciting innovations, but I would like to see more in terms of trends and directions.” –Luke Langthorne, Design Manager, Next Sourcing Limited, London
manufacturers… We’re looking at Japan as the market there always seeks innovative and diversified offerings,” revealed Arafat Hossain, Executive, NASSA Denim, who like many others was all praise for the expo and vouched for its increasing popularity. “Earlier, we had to remind our overseas clients about this expo, but now the scenario has changed completely. They not only remember the dates (of the event) but also look forward to attending it,” said Arafat while advising the organizers to allow participation of only those who have a R&D team. After all, the platform of Bangladesh Denim Expo is about showcasing something new and unique, reasons Arafat.
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Agha Nadeem Mirza (L), Head of Denim –NASSADenim, with Sohel Rana (C), Director Marketing & Merchandising –Nassa Group along with a visitor
Abdelkader Amouche, Regional Manager of Vicunha Textile
China-based denim fabrics producer Guangzhou Foison Textile Co. Ltd. was also extremely delighted to be part of the event. The fourth time participant is a manufacturer of an array of denim fabrics such as overdyed, mercerized, mercerized stretch and even printed items. With its experience of more than 10 years in denim fabrics, Foison showcased a number of innovations. “For this edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo, we’ve a number of new developments in cotton, twill, rayon fabrics, etc. We’re here to showcase competitively-priced, superiorquality good-stretch fabrics to the customers,” stated Yoo, Country Manager of the company, who hailed the expo for the sheer significance that it carries for the denim fraternity. “With every edition they are breaking the record of visitors and exhibitors. It has become a very good platform to exhibit our products to the potential customers. It’s a big boost for our business… Dhaka also is a tremendous market for denim fabrics,” Yoo quipped.
Present in the event was also Nice Denim Mills Limited (NDML), a subsidiary of Noman Group, exhibiting its range of cotton stretch fabrics as well as blends in viscose, tencel, etc. “We have received very good response so far. The platform
FACT • Fifty-eight exhibitors from 12 countries, including Bangladesh, Brazil, China, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Italy, Japan, Pakistan, San Marino, Spain and Turkey participated in the expo. • Altogether 5,545 visitors from 1,029 companies and 52 countries attended the event.
of Bangladesh Denim Expo is a very good opportunity to showcase our offerings,” underlined Nur-EYasmin Fatema, Deputy Managing Director of Noman Group, adding how NDML is all geared up to produce high-quality denim fabrics. One of the top-of-the-line denim mills in Bangladesh (considering the fact that it is integrated with weaving, spinning and processing/ colouration), NSDL is equipped with state-of-the-art machines, including rope dyeing machines from Morrison and Greenvile (USA). “We have the capability to produce fabrics in line with what are being manufactured in Pakistan and China as we are using technologically advanced rope-dyeing machines,” added Fatema. NSDL produces around 2.5 million yards of fabrics per month to cater to names such as H&M, Marks &Spencer, Next, Aldi, Lidl, Levis, Lee, etc.
TECHNOLOGY – AN IMPORTANT ASPECT OF FASHION DENIM Not to be left behind, machine manufacturers, solution providers and accessories makers also came up with the latest developments. One such name in sustainable and efficient finishing technology was
Jeanologia which introduced its laser solutions and ecosystems in this expo. The Spanish company which is operating in Bangladesh for the last 17 years and boasts of a rich clientele here, showcased novel solutions that are able to increase the production capacity of laundries, reduce the time-to-market and offer innovative, creative and ecological products. The ‘Zero Water Washing Plant’ of Jeanologia allows water savings of up to 95 per cent and 90 per cent chemical use in finishing processes of jeans. It further aims to transform Bangladesh’s denim production centres into eco laundries by integrating all technologies – laser, ozone and nano-bubbles. Participating for the second time in this event, Jeanologia understands how denim expo has become a key platform for the Bangladesh denim industry over the years. “It has started to become well known internationally. In fact, we’ve many visitors from sourcing companies, and brands and retailers this time from around the globe. I think that it has got a real big impact and hope that it is going to be a good tool for the industry to improve the image of Bangladesh denim in the world,” said Jordi Juani, Director – Asia Division, Jeanologia.
Davide Menini, Area Sales Manager of Panama Trimmings Limited
ACCESSORIES IMPRESS… One of Italy’s leading label producers (nominated supplier of some of the biggest European retailers), Panama Trimmings Ltd., was the sole Italian exhibitor in the Bangladesh Denim Expo. “The market here is growing a lot. It has great potentiality… I believe the demand will only increase by each passing day. But Bangladesh needs also to develop infrastructure to facilitate buyers, manufacturers and exporters as a whole,” observed Davide Menini, Area Sales Manager of the company. Another torchbearer of sustainable production, ISA TrimTec, the leather trimming division of Germany-based global footwear brand ISA TanTec, presented the latest developments of leather patches and laces for apparels, shoes, bags and accessories in the exposition. Manufacturing from three different factories in China, Vietnam and USA, respectively, the label producing giant exhibited an array of labels for the Bangladesh market. “We’ve been focusing on credibility and sustainability as sustainability has become the buzzword for the industry. As Europe is our main market and being the nominated
Jordi Juani, Director –Asia Division, Jeanologia
supplier of global retailer like TomTailor, we realize how important Bangladesh market is for us,” said Susan Fu, Sales Manager of ISA TrimTec. A first-time participant in the denim expo, Susan termed the exhibition a great opportunity for business generation. “This is our first time in this event. But we have already decided to participate here on a regular basis as we feel this expo can play a crucial role in helping us grow in Bangladesh,” Susan underlined.
FROM THE VISITORS’ EYES Considering the significance of Bangladesh Denim Expo as one of the prime business generating platform, most of the visitors were unanimous in their opinion that it has been a game changer for sure. One of the leading native denim manufacturers of Bangladesh and a regular visitor, Gazi Mahmudul Alam Director of Mahmud Group observed: “In Bangladesh we have two denim exhibitions, of which Bangladesh Denim Expo is better in my opinion…” The bi-annual nature of the event was not something which was up to Alam’s likings though, who suggested a sole edition of the exposition per year instead.
QUOTE “Bangladesh Denim Expo is an international platform showcasing the wealth of opportunities available in Bangladesh covering all aspects of the denim supply chain with exhibitors displaying fabrics, garments, threads, machineries, finishing equipments and accessories – a true top-to-toe representation of the denim industry.” –Mostafiz Uddin, CEOof Bangladesh Denim Expo
Notwithstanding its reputation and role in catapulting Bangladesh as the preferred denim hub globally, some visitors rued the so-called lack of directions in terms of products. “We look for open-ended products, stressed twill garments, open-ended denims with stretch. We tried openended products last time also but it wasn’t worth because of limitations. In this edition there are some exciting innovations, but I would like to see more in terms of trends and directions,” underlined Luke Langthorne, Design Manager, Next Sourcing Limited, London. A regular visitor as he claims, the design manager otherwise was happy with the denim expo, terming it “a great platform to exchange ideas, opportunities and generate business.” Speaking to Apparel Online Luke maintained, “It’s not all about price but also opportunities and trends… This one is a brilliant initiative at bringing all the stakeholders under one roof.”
SEMINARS ADD TO THE CHARM Exhibitors apart, who were more than successful in drawing the attention of the visitors from across the globe, the vibrant expo also featured several special events
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Luke Langthorne, Design Manager –Next Sourcing Limited, London
“This time we introduced a new theme, ‘Blue is the new Green’, through which we want to share a message with all our buyers and the denim lovers in general. ‘Blue’ means Denim and ‘Green’ means Sustainability, thus ‘Blue is the new Green’…” –Mohammad Jamal Abdun Naser, Director of Shasha Denims Ltd.
Nur-E-Yasmin Fatema –Deputy Managing Director of Noman Group
“We consider Bangladesh an extremely potential market and have come this time with our vintage authenticity – the authentic high ridges, our heavyweight denims, highstretch items and luxury fabrics.” –Abdelkader Amouche, Regional Manager of Vicunha Textile
Susan Fu, Sales Manager of ISA TrimTec
Yoo (extreme left), Country Manager –Foison Textile Co. with team
among which were the ‘Tonello Denim Gallery’, ‘Sashiko Stitch’, the ‘Repair Display’ along with the special ‘Information Exchange’ and the absolute novelties of the ‘Virtual Reality Booths’, enabling one to take a virtual trip of a fabric mill, denim factory as well as laundry. Amongst several seminars organized during the course of the two eventful days, ‘From ideas to technologies: Discovering a new age for garment finishing’ by Alice Tonello, R&D Manager at Tonello Garment Finishing and Piero Turk, a world renowned denim designer, is worth mentioning, which explored the new trends in finishing through cultural, economic, ecological and technical aspects. The ‘Seminar on Total Quality Assurance: Holistic Approach for Business Excellence’ by Intertek Bangladesh was also a major attraction of the event, which highlighted the company’s assurance, testing, inspection and certification services to the textile and apparel industry of Bangladesh, presented by Dr. Karthik ND, Country Managing Director of Intertek Bangladesh.
ORGANIZER’S PERSPECTIVE “Bangladesh Denim Expo is an international platform showcasing the wealth of opportunities available in Bangladesh covering all aspects of the denim supply chain with exhibitors displaying fabrics, garments, threads, machineries, finishing equipment and accessories – a true top to toe representation of the denim industry,” observed the beaming CEO of Bangladesh Denim Expo, Mostaftz Uddin, commenting on the success of the 6th edition of the denim extravaganza. “And doing it with an international perspective, especially concerning the inevitable sustainable transition, we all must face, learn to promote and defuse sustainability as much as we can,” Mostafiz added. The next edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo will be held on November 8th &9th this year with its promise to overshadow the success and grandeur of the previous editions, keeping true to its tradition of setting new benchmarks in showcasing the latest innovations in denim.
EXPORTER PROFILE
Focus on volumes has helped Well Group grow over the years “Having our own washing facility, wash garments was an obvious choice, so we went for bottoms like heavy twills, denims and cargo shorts with diverse wash effects.” – Syed Nurul Islam
Syed Nurul Islam, CEO, Well Group Industries
eing focused on a defined goal has paid dividend to Well Group Industries, established in 1973 by Founder Chairman Abdus Salam under Bangladesh Textile Industries (BTI) in a small workshop in Chittagong. With an initial target to produce sewing threads to cater to its growing domestic demand, it has in just over four decades expanded into a conglomerate with multiple interests apart from only sewing threads. WELL THREAD (its flagship product), packaging, food, hospitality, real es tate and readymade garments together generate a combined annual turnover of over US $ 100 million and employ over 20,000 workers. Apparel Online caught up with the dynamic CEO of the Well Group Industries, Syed Nurul Islam, to get an insight on Well Group’s
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mercurial rise and its diverse offerings in RMG, which Islam prefers to call ‘clothing’, and justifies using the term of his choosing with a rational explanation. “I personally do not like to use the word readymade garment (RMG)… Today Bangladesh is not only about cutting and stitching, but much more as it has matured tremendously. From producing yarns to making fabrics to cutting and stitching to finishing and packaging, we are doing everything. Today the majority of the big names, be it in woven or knits, have their own verticallyintegrated set-ups. For basic denim fabrics, Bangladesh is not only self-sufficient but one amongst the best globally. In twill also, we are doing very good and so also in knit,” states Islam proudly.
The readymade garment units of Well Group (Well Fashion Ltd., Well Designer Ltd., Well Mart Ltd., Well Dress Ltd. and Well Fashion Ltd. Unit-2 with combined machine strength of 3000) together produce 20 million pieces of garments (trousers – denim and twill, besides cargo shorts) for names such as Walmart, H&M, JCPenney, Kmart, Carrefour, Aeropostale, George, Sears, Dollar General, Tesco, etc. However, Well Group’s preferred product in its initial days of garment manufacturing was not bottoms, but shirts! “We started in a very small way making shirts with 100 machines in 1999 but have shifted focus exclusively to trousers afterwards,” maintains Islam. Changing demand dynamics of the existing clients and Well Group’s inherent strength in washing are the main reasons behind this shift from shirts to bottoms.
“Having our own washing facility, wash garments was an obvious choice, so we went for bottoms like heavy twills, denims and cargo shorts with diverse wash effects,” Islam explains. Well Group’s wash facility is equipped with the latest in wet and dry processes as well as power laser, taken care of and supervised by a Sri Lankan expert while another Sri Lankan is in charge of the production units ably aided by two IEs from the same island nation to help ensure smooth and hassle-free garment manufacturing. Currently, almost 80 per cent of Well Group’s production is cargo shorts with an (average FOB of US $ 6) and remaining 20 per cent caters to women’s denims (average FOB US $ 6 that can go up to US $ 9 depending on wash and value
addition). “Walmart is our main client from USA and H&M from Europe and both have big order volumes which suit us well,” avers Islam. Dealing in volumes, Well Group is not keen on adding too many names to its clientele and is content only with a handful, but with voluminous orders. “This is actually our marketing strategy. It is very difficult to handle large number of buyers, who would have different needs and requirements with diverse order volumes,” shares Islam, conceding to the fact that working with only a few clients comes with its own share of drawbacks and briefs. “There are two sides to it. The biggest risk is if the buyer does not have orders, we do not have business. While at the same time when we have very big orders, we cannot entertain other customers as our capacities are filled,” he continues. Going forward thus, Well Group is investing in a manufacturing unit to resume producing shirts, in tandem with market diversification, keeping the future in perspective. “To start with, we will have 10 lines (500 machines) to make specialized shirts from yarn dyed fabrics,” informs Islam, who has a wellequipped unit for yarn dyed fabric (WELL Fabrics) with weaving capacity of 500,000 yards per month. While in terms of market, Islam is readying himself to look beyond USA (where Well Group exports 80 per cent of its products) and Europe (20 per cent), and sees a very good prospect in Japan. “We are already in talks with clients there and hopefully by next season, we would have orders from Japan, which again is a non-traditional market for Bangladesh but has very good potential in my view,” Islam underlines, citing Japan’s increasing volume of garment trade with Bangladesh. “You will find a large number of Japanese buyers in Bangladesh these days; even Uniqlo has its own office in Dhaka,” he says, adding, “Japan for that matter is buying apparel worth almost US $ 1 billion from Bangladesh currently; and especially for knits and denims, the prospects are very positive.”
UNIVOGUE EYES US $ 85 MILLION TURNOVER IN 2018 FOLLOWING CENTRALIZA TION OF CUTTING AREAS B U L L M E R T H E M O S T V I A B L E S O L U T I O N FO R U N I V O G U E … Univogue – a name that is synonymous with quality has collaborated with Bullmer, a pioneer in the field of cutting room technology solutions to become leaner and more cost-effective. The Group’s strength lies in rapid decision making, superior product quality, good capacity and timely deliveries. Speaking exclusively to Apparel Online, Jagath Priyantha, Director, Univogue Group, Chittagong, explains how automated equipment, in cutting areas will broaden productcapabilities significantly.
ounted among the leading garment manufacturing companies in Chittagong, specialized in bottom wear, Univogue Garments Ltd. is catering to some of the world’s leading brands like Ralph Lauren, Perry Ellis, Haggar Clothing, DXL, Bodek and Rhodes to name a few. A Sri Lanka-based company, Univogue started its operation in Bangladesh with one production unit at the CEPZ in 1985 and today it is operating four production units, including two sewing units, one cutting and storage unitand a finishing unit with wrinkle-free facilities. For this Group, adding capacity is not a one-time affair, but a growth strategy. “We have continuously added capacity over
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"We have continuously added capacity over the years, as we find that in the industry now, minimum of 10 per cent growth is required to sustain, otherwise we cannot meet our cost.” – Jagath Priyantha
Jagath Priyantha, Director of Univogue Group (C) with team from Bullmerand Uni Asia Associates
the years, as we find that in the industry now, minimum of 10 per cent growth is required to sustain, otherwise we cannot meet ourcost. In the last three years, we have increased our capacity by about 30 per cent,” informsPriyantha. The focus today for the company is on adding automation in the cutting room to reduce the labour costs and boost efficiency in cutting. “This year, we have decided to centralize cutting to minimize the cutting cost and also to consolidate thebusiness. Those are the new changes and by centralizing the cutting, we will be able to increase 15-20 per cent capacity for the next year in the cutting areas,” saysPriyantha. The efforts for the same are being supported by automatedequipment
by Bullmer, offering sustainable solutions in cutting areas. “We found that it is difficult to maintain the labour and maintenance costs in manual cutting. For accurate quality, we had been using systems earlier also, but we found that in the current scenario, Bullmer is the most viable solution for us and then we simply went for that.” Priyantha strongly believes in Bullmer and sharing his experience while working with the very basic machines states, “machines are very work-friendly and the company is offering extensive support regarding the same.” Progressively, Bullmer is also supporting the Group to keep its viability alive. Priyantha further added: “Initially I found that installation was done well. They supported usby giving operators and other workers to train our people. Then we found that systems are not that critical for us to run by ourselves. Now internally, we have trained our peopleand we also have a technical team that comes in here every month to do the routines and we found that it is working outwell.”
The management is very confident of the future and already has an expansion plan under implementation. “In 2017, we will have expansion on sewing and production capacity in place, following centralization of cutting. By the end of this year,we have planned for a turnover of around US $ 70 million and for 2018, our plan is to touch US $ 85 million turnover,” sharesPriyantha. The Group currently is very upbeat; cost reduction with innovative ideas like cutting room optimization, will definitely reap benefits. “The maximum saving comes from the fabric, because in our product, at least 55 per cent cost is of the fabric. We are focusing on optimization front to utilize the fabric to the maximum. The automation basically helps you to discipline cutting room, this will improve monitoring and reduce malpractice,” says the Director of Univogue Group. The Group is simply looking at cost advantage tactics in its production module to reduce costs, increase revenue and drive profits. Priyantha, sticking to his similar product strategy advocates, “We have more or less set-up our lines for 60 machines. At present, we are having three cutters and four spreaders. The productsare chosen to suit ouroperation.”
Dressmen Limited Evolving to Prosper! Company’s Director underlines the transformation initiatives undertaken by Dressmen, and why…
Evolution is as much essential for success in any business as it is for apparel! As socio-economic conditions undergo changes, markets go through the cycles and products reach saturation making way for the new ones. In such a scenario, transformation is the only option to maintain business growth and financial viability. The difference between a successful and an extinct business thus is the recognition and successful execution of transformative processes, and who better understands the same than the young and suave Director of the more than three-decade-old Dressmen Limited, Maashed R Abdullah, a Graduate from Indiana University Bloomington (Bachelor of Science in Apparel Merchandising and Business Entrepreneurship), responsible for the Group’s Marketing, Development, Social Compliance, Information Technology and Quality Departments.
stablished in 1984 as a partnership business with just 60 machines and
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150 workers under a project loan from Pubali Bank Ltd. under the leadership of Managing Director and Chief Executive Offtcer Hasan Abdullah, Dressmen has come a long way. At present, it owns five production units with a combined workforce of 4000 workers and plans to establish a couple of more units soon to be considered one of the top garment manufacturers and exporters of Bangladesh. Living up to its reputation, Dressmen has always embraced the path of evolution to maintain its relevance in these changing times. “Business dynamics have been changing rapidly and if one has to stay in the race, there’s no option but to think out of the box and keep evolving… After every 3-4 years, one has to change the game plan in this business and we are currently exploring all the possibilities,” Maashed declares, underlining Dressmen’s evolving business strategy in terms of markets, products, alliances and innovations. Counting USA as its primary market so far (accounting for almost 70 per cent of the business), Maashed is shifting focus to Europe (which accounts for the company’s 30 per cent business) now and has his reasons for the same.
Maashed R Abdullah, Director, Dressmen Limited
“…Yes, that is one amongst the many reasons,” says Maashed referring to the changed political milieu in USA adding, “Many international retailers are also now moving from USA to Europe. Besides, European brands are coming up strongly as against their American counterparts”. Also to be considered from Maashed's perspective is the strong emergence of Ethiopia as a garmenting hub. Armed with AGOA, the Sub-Saharan country of late has successfully lured many big names from US with numerous others ready to follow suit. “American policy of Bangladesh has changed after the Rana Plaza incident. Moreover, they are also in a dilemma whether to produce in Bangladesh or Ethiopia,” Maashed explains indicating that this is not a good sign for future development. Not the one to ignore the risks of single market dependency, Dressmen is seriously looking at market diversification, but with a touch of caution! “We are also catering to some non-traditional markets like India, Turkey and South Africa… Despite the huge potential, I think Japanese market is very difficult for Bangladesh as we are yet to achieve the level of expertise to satisfy the Japanese customers in terms of quality,” Maashedobserves. Out of the three mentioned countries, it is India that excites Maashed the most. “India is very promising. It has a very large population with considerable buying prowess…,” elucidates Maashed, adding that reduced rate of taxes as against those levied currently by the Indian Government could go a long way in paving a mutually-beneficial business relation between the two neighbours.
Traditionally a woven shirts manufacturer (dress shirts, casuals and formals) with combined production capacity of 8,00,000 pieces per month, and catering to names such as Ralph Lauren, TESCO, VF Corporation, MANGO, Eddie Bauer, Nautica, TARGET Stores, HAGGAR,
TRADITIONALLYAWOVENSHIRTMANUFACTURER(DRESS SHIRTS,CASUALSAND FORMALS) WITHCOMBINEDPRODUCTIONCAPACITYOF8,00,000 PIECESPER MONTH, DRESSMENINDUSTRIES HASNOWADDED DENIMS INITSPRODUCT RANGE.
Springfield, etc, Dressmen Limited has now added denims in its product range. Bangladesh’s rising popularity in denim has surely opened up a world of opportunities for the garment manufacturers, and Dressmen is not the one to miss this moment! Taking a step further in this direction, it has entered into a coalition with an overseas factory, to utilize each others’ strengths better to get an edge over the others. “We have established a strategic alliance with a factory in Turkey (in which we are also a stakeholder) to manufacture value-added, small quantity orders to the tune of 300-500 pieces. Similarly when they get volume orders, it is routed to us in Bangladesh,” shares Maashed stressing on the importance of resource and expertise sharing between entities cutting across geographical boundaries in the age of globalization. He also states, “In Turkey, we also have a design studio for product development,” and refers to have hired the services of an Italian agency to feed Dressmen the latest in trends. “Four times in a year, they give us the CAD designs of the ongoing trends in the market and we replicate those designs in our factory. It’s a very exclusive process as there are not many in Bangladesh who use the same for mass production,” says the Director of Dressmen.
E SS E N T I A L S “Business dynamics have been changing rapidly and if one has to stay in the race, there’s no option but to think out of the box and keep evolving. Every 3-4 years, one has to change the game plan in this business and we are currently exploring all the possibilities.” – Maashed R Abdullah
For seamless supply chain operations, Dressmen has established a network in Hong Kong and China for all their global procurement. For a better global reach, it has further partnered with two organizations, one in NewYork for North American operations, and the other in Istanbul for the European operations. “After completing more than 30 years in this business, we are convinced that we are no longer engaged in the traditional garment manufacturing business. Combination of innovation and technology driven by speed, efficiency and competitive costing is now the recipe behind the science of successful manufacturing. And with our extensive knowledge and experience, we are able to create new collections for heritage brands as well as fulfil directional trends and advise our retail partners on the latest style details. Ourability to replicate the product design cycle for established brands and become the resource for product development and deliver excellence for our customers has earned us the reputation of being ‘The Secret Behind Great Brands’,” reasons Maashed on a concluding note, and proves rightfully so, embarking on a transformation ismore than just deciding to do something different or expanding into adjacent markets. Rather it’s a painstaking process of examining, planning and executing the business plans keeping the future in perspective.
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CHALLENGES PROMOTE FURTHER GROWTH OF CJ INTERNATIONAL MD OF SWEDISH BUYING HOUSE CJ INTERNATIONAL TAKES THROUGH COMPANY’S JOURNEY & GROWTH IN BANGLADESH
Success in business is all about negotiating challenges deftly, which is something Roshan Withanage, the Managing Director of CJ International – Bangladesh, head of the Swedish buying house, has been doing with aplomb for long to help the Swedish company stand out amongst the hordes of buying entities that dot the country’s landscape today.
here are synthetic items like poplin, georgettes, etc, which are still at a very infant stage in this country”.
tarting operations in Bangladesh in 2006, CJ International’s mainstay as far as sourcing is concerned, was home textiles. But that was only till Pakistan started enjoying the GSP facility, which ensured a shift of business (home textiles) from Bangladesh to Pakistan. That CJ International owns an office in Pakistan helped it to deal with this situation effectively. Besides Pakistan, CJ International also has offices in India, Bangladesh, China and Hong Kong in addition to its partners in Latvia, Estonia and Thailand.
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“There has been a lot of change in the sourcing pattern over the years. Earlier home textiles accounted for almost 60 per cent of our business from Bangladesh. But today it’s 10 per cent of the total business,” explains the MDof CJ International, who adapted well to the changing dynamics and shifted focus to other product categories that have good demands in the markets that the buying house operates in. Working predominantly with Scandinavia, sweater eventually emerged as the much sought after product accounting for almost half of CJ International’s total business from Bangladesh, while the remaining 40% is shared by knit and woven products and 10 per cent by home textiles (bath robes, towel, etc).
CJ International’s average FOB of a pair of denim (ladies) is around US $ 8, T-shirt around US $ 3 and sweater is around US $ 8.
Roshan Withanage, Managing Director, CJ International
“APART FROM SCANDINAVIA, WE HAVE RUNNING ORDERS FROM FRANCE, GERMANY AND AUSTRALIA…” – ROSHAN WITHANAGE
“There is round the year demand for sweaters. During winter, the demand is more for sweaters in heavy gauge while summer and autumn pushes up requirements in lighter gauges,” Roshan explains, adding, “We cater to many big names in Scandinavia including Gina Tricot (Swedish retailer), whose sourcing in Bangladesh is primarily dependent on us. We source everything that is cotton-based across product categories. However, in terms of volume, sweater is still the biggest, followed by T-shirts, then denims, shirts, etc. What we do not ship from
This continuous order flow in sweaters has helped Roshan establish a very good control in all the three sweater manufacturing units (in which the buying houses place their order for woollens) as almost 70 per cent of their total capacities are booked by CJ International throughout the year. “Keeping the number of factories limited and sharing a long-standing relationship helps build the trust factor. In the process, we have aided many factories develop their standards by helping them improve in various aspects,” elucidates Roshan, underlining that it is the very same principle that he applies to other factories for the other product categories. Despite having a factory base of over 20, CJ International primarily works with only 11. “This is basically to increase order volumes per factory, become a big player in each of them and ensure better quality, and enhance social and environmental compliances,” explains Roshan.
CJ International’s offerings in RMG
Taking pride in CJ International’s philosophy of acting as clients’ ‘eyes and ears’ and operating as their back office, Roshan’s next target is to cover Europe and Australia in terms of market. “Apart from Scandinavia, we have running orders from France, Germany and Australia and now we are looking at Poland and Russia also,” he maintains. In Europe, Germany is high up in Roshan’s estimates in terms of potentials, who goes on to add further, “Germans have more dispensable income compared to many other countries in Europe while at the same time German market is also very price-sensitive.” The United Kingdom has also been a preferred market for CJ International for long. However, with the British deciding to part ways with the European Union, things have changed considerably now, Roshan feels. “The effect of Brexit has been across geographical locations. Besides EUcountries and UK, it has differently impacted the manufacturing destinations in other places,” Roshan underlines. British Pound and Euro losing value in comparison to US Dollar have had larger ramifications for the Bangladesh apparel industry in particular as it deals in US Dollars.
Home Textile items sourced by CJ International
“Bangladesh in a way has become expensive for UK as well as other EU nations to do business with. As a result, manufacturers and exporters have to cut prices and lose margins to continue being in the business,” Roshan reveals. According to him, if Brexit proved somewhat ominous for garment exporters in Bangladesh, it was rather the contrary for Turkey (which deals in Euro). Despite many European countries successfully carrying out austerity drives, following the economic crises that hit Europe in 2007 and 2009 respectively forcing Governments to take decisive action to improve public finances, push through deep reforms, and establish new institutions to manage and prevent crises better and bring their respective economies back on track –the ripple effects of Brexit are going to haunt the garment industry in Bangladesh for some time to come, so feelsRoshan. Being the one who helped develop the Bangladesh operations of CJ International, which now contributes roughly US $ 50 million in the company’s total yearly turnover of US $ 100 million, Roshan is not the one to give up on challenges. He is therefore now looking at expanding in USA, where the company already ships caps and few other items to a select clientele.
E SS E N T I A L S Despite having a factory base of over 20, CJ International primarily works with only 11. This is basically to increase order volumes per factory and become a big player in each of them to ensure better quality and enhance social and environmental compliances.
Well-equipped with a design studio in Sweden, in-house product development teams (both for design and yarn development) and a testing lab (employing a full-time technician and complete set of equipmentincluding an International Lab Standard washer, a dryer, a GSM cutter and GSM weighing machines among others) and it’s very own knitting factory, Young 4ever Textiles Limited(specialized in all kinds of knitted products with production capacity of over 400,000 pieces per month) takes care of the clients’ diverse requirements. This makes Roshan more than confident about CJ International’s prospects in theUS. “We have a winning combination of Swedish, Bangladeshiand Sri Lankan team that brings the technical expertise, transparency and commitment much needed in this kind of operation. Besides, we also have a strong merchandising division and a Quality Assurance department, which visits each supplier almost every day to ensure that the buyers’ requirements in qualityand on-time delivery are maintained. To aid our teams, we also have an in-house lab that checks all goods at least three times per production cycle in addition to any buyer-specific requirements,” wraps up Roshan, assuring a full package for all the prospectiveclients.
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Zara, H&M and M&S buy materials from polluting units in Asia: Report Renowned fast fashion brands like Zara, H&M and Marks & Spencer are buying materials produced in factories that are harmful to human health, states a report. Sadly, the investigation says that these polluting factories exist mostly in China, Indonesia and India. The water supplies are getting contaminated by the toxic run-off from the manufacture of viscose, eventually leading to risk of cancer. According to Changing Markets Foundation, though viscose, a plant-based fibre is environment-friendly, most of them are produced by using chemical-intensive process, making them all the more harmful. In Indonesia, there have been instances wherein locals were found washing viscose products in the river, thereby exposing themselves directly to the toxic chemicals. Also at a plant in Jiangxi, China, production of viscose turned Lake Poyang into black, killing fish and other sea creatures. In India too, Madhya Pradesh, which is home to a large viscose plant, several families are reportedly suffering from cancer after the soil got contaminated. As per the Foundation, cheap production, which is driven by the fast fashion industry, along with liberal enforcement of environmental regulations in China, India and Indonesia, is proving to be a toxic mix. “This report reveals that some of the world’s biggest brands are turning a blind eye to questionable practices within their supply chains. With water pollution increasingly being recognised as a major business risk, shifting to more sustainable production processes should be high on the agenda of retailers,” averred a manager at Changing Markets Foundation. The Group also added that large fashion brands like Zara and H&Mhave such a significant purchasing power that they can actually put pressure on suppliers to clean up their methods with relatively little effort. In fact the Group has said that since 10 companies control almost 70 per cent of global viscose production, there are opportunities for a rapid change.
C&A launches C2C certified gold T-shirts
Dutch fashion retailer C&A has recently launched the world’s first Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold products in its stores in 18 European markets. Certified at gold level by the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute (C2CPII), the recyclable T-shirts are made of 100 per cent organic cotton, with safe materials and chemicals and produced in a socially and environmentally responsible way. The styles were developed in close partnership with Fashion for Good. Fashion for Good is a global partnership that unites apparel producers, retailers, non-profit
organizations, innovators and funders with the shared ambition to transform the apparel industry into a circular one. Additionally, the dyes used in the colouration of the shirts, which are available in two styles and 17 colours, were selected from the range of DyStar Levafix® and Remazol® reactive dyes which received C2C Gold Level certification for Material Health from C2CPII last year. With this honour, the DyStar Group strives to be part of a more sustainable future and a growing circular economy reaffirming its commitment to environmental and human health.
VFC bags recognition for its HR operations VF Corporation, an American worldwide apparel and footwear company founded in 1899 and headquartered in Greensboro, North Carolina, has been recognized for its human resource operations by Workforce Magazine. The company has been named in the publication’s “2017 Workforce 100” list. “Our ongoing commitment to make VF the best possible place to work is one we take seriously,” said Anita Graham, Vice President and Chief Human Resources Officer, VF Corporation, adding, “We have incorporated a
talent focus in our Global Business Strategy and we will continue to drive momentum so that we remain a purpose-driven company that attracts and develops the best talent.” The list is based on research from the Human Capital Media Advisory Group and uses employee satisfaction data from Glassdoor. Seven categories of HR performance were assessed to compile the list, including employee development, workplace culture, employee benefits, talent management and diversity and inclusion.
IKEA UK & Ireland launches ‘textile take-back' scheme IKEA UK &Ireland has launched a new textile take-back scheme at its Cardiff store, encouraging customers to recycle unwanted textiles and help the local community. As the first IKEA textile take-back initiative in the UK, the scheme will give customers in Cardiff the opportunity to bring in any unwanted textiles purchased from any store – from clothing to soft furnishings – to be reused, repaired or recycled. There will also be workshops in store showing customers how they can breathe new life into old textiles, or turn them into something new.
According to the company release, the pilot scheme, supported by sustainability not-for-profit WRAP, will see IKEA Cardiff donate all textile products received from customers to the YMCA in Roath, Cardiff. The scheme will provide a range of textiles for people in the local community, including the homeless and low-income families. Recent research by WRAP reveals that textiles are one of the least recycled commodities in the waste sector. Each year, WRAP estimates that the UK consumes 1.7 million tonnes of textiles, with almost a third (620,000 tonnes) ending up in landfill or incineration.
Commenting on the move, Matthew Fessey, Store Manager at IKEA Cardiff said “With our vision to create a better everyday life for many people, the textile take-
back scheme in Cardiff will help our customers to live more sustainably while supporting people in need who are living in the local community.”
ASICS releases 2016 Sustainability Report Japanese sportswear specialist ASICS has recently released its 2016 Sustainability Report which summarizes the company’s sustainability performance for last year and outlines progress towards its medium-term sustainability targets.
on an ambitious new set of sustainability targets towards 2020. We’re committed to striving harder than ever to keep improving our sustainability performance in everything we do,” said Motoi Oyama, Chairman, President and CEO, ASICS Corporation.
“2016 was a special year for the ASICS Group. This was the year we kicked off our new five-year ASICS Growth Plan, embarking
In the last fiscal, ASICS Europe launched a centralized review of energy procurement and updated its electricity contracts, switching
about 300,000 kWh to renewable energy and saving 100 tonnes of CO2. It also launched its new Global Retail Concept with the opening of a new flagship store in Brussels, Germany with features like LED lighting, energy efficient systems and floor materials in addition to hangers, mannequins and other POS components made from certified sustainable and/or renewable materials.
The retailer also organized training sessions in collaboration with independent partners, such as the International Labour Organization’s Better Work programme, for both Tier 1 and Tier 2 suppliers to give them the knowledge and understanding necessary to further improve their performance. Continuing its sustainable journey, ASICS expects to double its total use of renewable electricity in Europe, which will account for 10 per cent of the company’s total global electricity usage. It also plans to conduct energy efficiency audits in its most energy-intensive locations and implement efficiency improvements where necessary. Taking a step ahead, the company will also publicly disclose which suppliers it partners with in the manufacturing of ASICS, ASICS Tiger and Onitsuka Tiger footwear, apparel and accessories.
BANGLADESH CANVAS
Sluggish garment industry impacts export earnings
6 RMG units complete CAPs North American buyers’ group – ‘Alliance for Bangladesh Workers Safety’ has announced the successful completion of all material components outlined in their Corrective Action Plans (CAPs) by six additional Alliance-affiliated factories in the month of May. The new additions have brought the total number of factories to have completed their CAPs to 82. The factories include Babylon Garments Ltd., Columbia Apparels Ltd., R-PAC (BD) Packaging Co. Ltd. (PKG), R.S.B. Industrial Limited, Safaa Sweaters Ltd. (Safaa Sewing Ltd.) and Uni Gears Ltd. “We commend these factories for prioritizing remediation and exhibiting a firm commitment to worker safety. With a little
Drop in global demand for readymade garments has slowed down the rate of export earning of Bangladesh as well in the last fiscal year, revealed a recent data from Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).
more than a year left before the Alliance sunsets, achievements such as these remain central to our mission of transforming safety in Bangladesh’s readymade garment industry,” said Jim Moriarty, Country Director, Alliance. On the other hand, six factories failed to
enforce adequate remediation progress last month. These factories are Gladiolus Fashion Wear Ltd., Le Nouveautex Knit Fashion, C&A Fashion Limited, The Cloth &Fashion Ltd., Beautiful Jackets and Bando Apparels Ltd., bringing the total number of suspended factories to 153.
Garment factories breach standards for work-hours: Study While some of the core labour standards of the International Labour Organization (ILO) are being followed by garment factories in Bangladesh, the non-core standards for minimum work-hours and safety at the workplace are not correctly practised, states the study conducted by German-based Friedrich-Ebert-Stiftung (FES) and
Bangladesh Institute of Labour Studies (BILS). The study was done between October 2016 and May 2017 by interviewing unionists and workers and the findings of the study were revealed at The Daily Star Centre, Dhaka. “The country’s image will be even brighter and more trade will come to Bangladesh if the labour standards can be
implemented properly at the factory levels,” averred Jakir Hossain, Lead Researcher of the study and a Professor at Rajshahi University. In addition to recommending an increase in the minimum wage of the labourers, the study also suggested that the nation needs to improve monitoring so as to create pressure on the employers to maintain minimum work-hours for the garment and leather workers. “Development of any industry depends on the warm relationship between the workers and the employers and this relationship will improve if the international labour standards are maintained,” remarked Wajedul Islam Khan, Joint General Secretary, BILS. Khan also appealed to the Government and the owners of the factories to allow the workers to form trade unions so that they can be united for their rights.
Although Bangladesh’s overall export earnings rose by 3.67 per cent in the first eleven months of FY 2016-17 to hit US $ 31.79 billion-mark, the growth rate dropped to 1.39 per cent as the country only managed to earn US $ 3.07 billion as against the target of US $ 3.35 for the fiscal. According to trade analystsand leading sector figures, the slow rate of growth as highlighted by the EPB data, is a result of diminished global demand for readymade garments, which is considered to be the lifeline of Bangladesh’s economy, accounting for majority of the country’s foreign currency earnings. Of the total export earnings in the July-May period of FY 2016-17, the RMG sector grew by 2.16 per cent to contribute US $ 25.62 billion, but failed to reach the target of US $ 27.38 billion for the said period. “Low demand in global markets caused slower growth in Bangladesh’s exports earnings…,” underlined the experts, warning further, “It is a matter of concern as it may adversely impact backward linkage industry, production and even the Gross Domestic Product (GDP) of the country.” It is pertinent to mention here that of the total export earnings in the review period, knitwear segment noted 4.91 per cent growth to earn US $ 12.5 billion, woven garments however witnessed negative growth and were down by 0.33 per cent compared to the earnings of US $ 13.16 billion in the previous year.
15% Corporate Tax for RMG sector proposed in Budget Giving a further boost to the readymade garment industry – the highest foreign currency earner for Bangladesh – the Government has proposed to reduce the corporate tax for the sector to 15 per cent from the existing 20 per cent, in the Budget for FY 2017-18. The garment industry is playing a vital role in the economic development and employment generation of the country, said Finance Minister AMA Muhith while justifying the tax cut during presentation of the Budget in the Parliament. “This sector is under manifold pressure due to adversities in the international market…Considering the contribution of this sector in the economic growth and employment generation, we have been providing various incentives and tax benefits for them,” the Minister underlined. Besides, in an effort to integrate the issue of environment in the tax policy, the Government has further reduced the corporate tax by 1
per cent for ‘Green’ readymade garment factory owners from 2017-18 fiscal. “In order to keep the earth habitable for our next generation, we need to ensure both sustainable development and the conservation of our environment. We plan to integrate the environmental issues in our tax policy. In line with that, I propose to reduce the tax
rate of RMG companies to 14% if their factories are internationally recognized with green building certification,” maintained the Finance Minister.
Design (LEED) certification from the US Green Building Council (USGBC), one of the top green building rating systems in the world.
According to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), since 2011, a total of 67 Bangladeshi RMG factories have received Leadership in Energy and Environmental
Of the 67 factories, 13 have been rated Platinum, 20 Gold and 5 Silver. At least 222 more factories have been registered with the USGBC for the LEED certification, as perreports.
BGMEA for complete withdrawal of Tax at Source for next 2 years Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) has demanded full withdrawal of Tax at Source for next two years after the 1 per cent tax that was recently proposed by the Government in the Budget for the 2017-18fiscal. The apex trade body of the country’s garment industry made the demand in a post-Budget press conference at the BGMEA Building in Karwan Bazar of Dhakarecently. “Country’s apparel industry is passing through an adverse situation and full removal of tax at source for at least two years is needed to overcome
us.” The BGMEA President added that the new tax will make the business in this sector tougher to operate and attain the desired growth and as such requested the Government to fix the tax at source at zero per cent for the next two fiscals.
the scenario,” said BGMEA President MSiddiqur Rahman at the press meet. Referring to BGMEA’s proposal pertaining to tax at source, he said, “Tax at source was not removed or
even reduced. Rather it has been increased to 1 per cent from the existing 0.70 per cent, fixed especially for the readymade garment sector, which is totally frustrating for
Appreciating the move to set the Corporate Tax rate at 15 per cent from the existing 20 per cent, BGMEA leaders further requested the Government to reduce the same to 10 per cent for the next five years. They also sought additional 5 per cent cash assistance alongside the existing facilities on Freight On Board (FOB) price for readymade garment exports.
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Cambodia: Government takes measures to educate garment workers Cambodian Education Ministry will be expanding its plans of conducting a literacy programme for garment factory workers in the country. “Illiteracy is still a major issue in Cambodia, especially amongst garment factory staff, who often drop out of school to work,” averred Nath Bunroeun, Secretary of State, Education Ministry. This programme is being planned in association with UNESCO and the literacy group Sipar. “In a bid to support literacy, I want factory owners and private companies to open up more literacy classes for staff and create opportunities for workers to participate in this programme,” further added Nath Bunroeun.
Cambodia. She further said that this programme aims to reach all working adults and youngsters over 18 years in all provinces in the country. Among the 120 workers who are participating in the programme, 110 are women.
Though at present 6 factories in the provinces of Phnom Penh, Kampong Speu, Kandal and Siem Reap are a part of the initiative, the Education Ministry is optimistic of expanding the project to 18 factories by the end of2017. “The scheme is a part of
Government’s efforts to achieve the fourth sustainable development goal of ensuring inclusive and equitable quality education and lifelong learning opportunities for all by 2030,” remarked Anne Lemaistre, UNESCO Representative in
The programme is currently operational at Pactics Cambodia, Top Summit Garment Inc., Sabrina (Cambodia) Garment Manufacturing Corp, Japan Rocks SEA (Phnom Penh), Dewhirst (Cambodia) and New Orient (Cambodia) factories. “I hope to build two more libraries in garment factories,” said Hok Sothik, Director, Sipar. This will be in addition to the existing 16.
Sri Lanka: New centre to train youth for garment industry
Vietnam: HCM City aims to become country's future T&C hub
A collaborative initiative between Security Force Headquarters - Mullaitivu (SFHQ-MLT) and the District Secretary for Mullaitivu and garment industrialists to establish a new garment factory in Sri Lanka has given a pathway to a new training centre.
Ho Chi Minh City, a famous city in Vietnam, aims to become the country’s future garment,textile material and accessory hub, and is planning to build large centres for designing fashion, trading garment, textile material and accessories.
The training centre has been launched in order to train potential 35 ladies and youth who are later expected to join the garment industry. Introduced by Global Design Tex (Pvt.) Ltd., the training centre will help to provide job opportunities for the people in Mullaitivu District in
the garment industry. Under the Phase I of the training project, Global Design Tex will recruit some 35 aspirants in the garment industry. In Phase 2, it expects to establish 300-employee rich garment factory in the same area. The inaugural ceremony of the Training Centre was attended by Major General Dampath Fernando, Commander, Security Forces – MLT; Rupawathi Kethishwari, District Secretary for Mullaitivu; Gunabalan, Divisional Secretary for Maritime Pattu; Maheshika Kularatne, Co-Director, Global Design Tex; and Sampath Madarasinghe, Chief Executive Officer, Global Design Tex.
The municipal authorities of the region informed that the HCMCity has set targets of meeting 80-90 per cent of Vietnam’sdemand for garments and textiles by 2020, and supplying 100 per cent of accessories for the country’s garment industry. However, largescale garment and textile industrial parks will not be established in the city as the existing ones can accommodate all relevant enterprises, according to the
Municipal Department of Industry andTrade. Currently, HCMcity has 23 industrial parks and export processing zones, out of which 17 are operational. Most of the garment and textile firms are located in the export processing zones of Tan Thuan and Linh Trung, and the industrial parks of Tan Thoi Hiep, Tan Binh, Tan Tao, Tay Bac Cu Chi and Dong Nam. It may be mentioned here that Vietnam has witnessed a surge in its global textile and clothing (T&C) exports for the year 2017.According to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), the country grew by 12.4 per cent year-on-year to US $ 6,750 million during JanuaryMarch2017.
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Myanmar strives to get tax relief for garment export The local garment factories in Myanmar plan to export their own branded garments, according to Myanmar Garment Entrepreneurs Association (MGEA). At present, these garment factories are
exporting their products with the cutting, making and packaging (CMP) system. “We are not able to export our products with the Free-On-Board (FOB) system. Presently, we are
trying to get tax exemption for the FOB system. We are discussing this with the US Government to get some tax relief on the products exported with the CMP system because the garment
industry was not included in the reinstatement of the Generalized Scheme of Preferences (GSP),” averred U Myint Soe, Chairman, MGEA. Cotton wear, in the US, is taxed 10 to 12 per cent and nylon wear is taxed 37 per cent. The Government collects 6 to 15 per cent tax on FOB system products. The Association, therefore, has submitted a proposal to the Ministry of Commerce and Ministry of Planning and Finance to get tax exemption for products exported with FOB system. It is worth noting that the garment industry earns around 10 per cent of a garment’s value. Currently, 33 per cent of local garment production is exported to Japan, 25 per cent to South Korea, 2.4 per cent to the US and 2.4 per cent to China.
China: Santex Rimar Group holds discussion on ‘Future Textile Road' Discussion on ‘Future Textile Road’ (Silk Road), with Xinjiang, China and Europe as participants, was organized by Italy-based Santex Rimar Group, one of the leading players in the world market of machine manufacturers for weaving, textile finishing, technical textiles, nonwovens, etc., and China Textile Information Centre (CTIC) at Urumqi in the Xinjiang Province of Chinarecently. “We are here to open a new discussion between Xinjiang, China and Europe: Future Textile Road that stays for brand-new connections which are being established between different
countries and regions. We want to continue to prove our commitment to the Chinese textile industry with this new important milestone in Xinjiang, which definitely represents a great opportunity for the global textile industry,” reportedly mentioned Ferdinando Businaro, President, Santex Rimar Group. The key agenda behind organizing the event was to establish a unique platform for the future growth and development of the global high-end textile industry and the long-term construction of the cooperation system between different countries aligned with The Belt and Road initiative.
Stefano Gallucci, CEO of the company said, “Santex Rimar Group wants to join The Belt and Road initiative. We want to bring our knowhow and experience in providing solutions for the textile industry and help customers become successful.” China mulls to resuscitate an ancient network of land and ocean silk trade routes of centuries and is prompting an infrastructure building boom across Central Asia to Europe to augment trade and improve transport logistics. The One Belt, One Road is a huge, wide-reaching project with many roads, railways, ports
and maritime routes leading to development of new trade corridors while also reviving the old ones. The land-based projects are the belt. The road is the maritime route that will link China’s southern provinces to south-east Asia and the east coast of Africa. It may be mentioned here that Xinjiang is expected to become the largest cotton textile industry base of China and the most important garment export destination in Western China by the year 2023. With the construction of this belt, China would be able to see surge in its exports to a large extent.
Indonesia: Textile industry optimistic of reaching US$ 12 billion this year
Pakistan- Turkey to invest in textile industry
The first quarter of 2017 has witnessed an export increase of about 3 per cent to US$ 2 billion for Indonesian textile industry.
Surge in Pakistan’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) is rapidly attracting several Turkish companies which are looking for more business avenues. It is pertinent to note that many companies from Turkey have already established themselves in Pakistan. “Currently negotiations are underway for Foreign Direct Investments (FDI) in Pakistan’s textile industry particularly in fabrics and yarn; however, some technical issues remain unresolved,” said Mustafa Mente, General Secretary, Foreign Economic Relations Board of Turkey. He further added that both Turkey and Pakistan are keen to invest in the textile industry but they need to find common ground.
“One of the factors instrumental in improving the performance of the Indonesian textile industry was the US decision to exit the Trans Pacific Partnership (TPP). We can optimistically reach US$ 12 billion more until the end of 2017 although global market scenario today is as better as it was 2 to 3 years ago,” averred Ade Sudrajat, Chairman of Indonesian Textile Association (API). According to Ade, the positive performance for this labourintensive sector is in the export of apparel but it is not encouraging for textile products. He further stated that the textile industry is
still faced with many concerns such as the increase of UVR which is changing every year. This is one of the factors that will derail the income projection unless the textile companies make some effort to enhance efficiency and increase their productivity.
India: Government may soon unveil National Textiles Policy The Union Textiles Ministry of India is reportedly preparing to send National Textiles Policy to the Union Cabinet for approval in July. The Ministry is in the process to give final touch to the draft. This has been stated by Pushpa Subrahmanyam, Additional Secretary of Textiles Ministry, who was in Hyderabad (India) recently to participate in a road show to promote upcoming Textiles India 2017. “We have talked to stakeholders from all segments,
be it handloom weavers or big manufacturers on the textiles policy. We have reached out to all the sectors. We are almost ready with the draft. Soon after the Textiles India 2017 gets over, we will enrich the document with more inputs from the event. In July, it may go to cabinet for approval,” reportedly said Pushpa. The policy under consideration aims to achieve US$ 300 billion worth of textile exports by 2024-25 and create an additional 35 million jobs.
Mente is optimistic that the volume of Turkish investments in Pakistan as well as Pakistani investments in Turkey will increase across all sectors. “The entire region of South Asia that includes India, Pakistan and Bangladesh is distinctive mainly because of its vast population and therefore attracts Turkish companies to invest,” further averred Mente. However, the distance and cost of travelling continue to remain issues. Turkey faces the same concern with the American markets as well, though there are a lot of opportunities for SMEs and other such businesses.
Negotiations are also underway between Turkey and Pakistan to finalize a Free Trade Agreement (FTA) so as to enhance trade between both nations. According to the Pakistan Business Council, the level of bilateral trade between the two countries, at present, is US$ 584 million, which has the potential to go up to US$ 5 billion. Of late, few Turkish companies have invested directly in Pakistan, especially in Punjab, but that is more due to the Government’s urge to recreate some Turkish models in the provincial capital. At present, Pakistan’s exports to Turkey is US$ 391 million, whereas Turkey’s exports amount to US$ 193 million.
WORLD WRAP
Lingerie market gears up for momentous changes Niche brands c h a l l e n g i n g the d o m i n a n c e of l i n g e r i e
rowing at a steady rate over thepast few years, the dependency of lingerie for functional as well as fashionpurposes has propelled its growth further resulting in the global lingerie market being valued at US $ 33.18 billion in 2015, which is expected to be worth US $ 55.83billion by the end of 2024. The global market is estimated to rise at a CAGR of 6.4 per cent during the forecast period – 2016 to 2024, according to Transparency Market Research. With this growth, the lingerie market is seeing an overflow of niche brands, and Amazon is definitely not behind. The brand is preparing to launch its own private label, as theindustry witnesses a major overhaul in the lingerie market, challenging leading international lingerie brands such as Victoria’s Secret.
G
On the basis of product types, the global lingerie market is segmented into bra, knickers and panties, loungewear, shapewear and others. Various research and reports indicate that the bra segment holds the biggest share in the global market due to its indispensable usage, while the knickers and panties segment too is expected to make a significant contribution to the overall market as these are considered essential items as well. As per market research company Just Style, the world lingerie retail market is now valued at US $ 28.75 billion, while Europe accounts for US $ 11.67 billion of the total figure, and North America for US $ 7.93 billion. Together they have a combined share of 66.3 per cent of the world’s total.
The ‘Global Market Review of Lingerie – Forecasts to 2022’ also estimates thatthe world bra market for 2016 is worthUS $ 16.42 billion, as bras account for 55.5 per cent of the world lingerie market. In unit terms, bra sales account for 1596 million units per year. While the world briefs’ market is estimated to be atUS $ 9.90 billion, representing 33.5 per cent of the total lingerie market, in unit terms, briefs sales constitute 5,260 million units per year. This notable progress is propelling niche lingerie brands to grow as against the existing giants such as Victoria’s Secret, making room in the market for other small players. One such brand is Aerie, the American Eagle Outfitter’s lingerie and activewear brand, which has been performing strongly for the past several quarters despite weak mall traffic and a soft macro-environment. The company’s game-changing campaign was in 2014, when the lingerie brand decided to feature only un-airbrushed models in its ads, which truly worked for the company! Its sales increased immensely thereafter (20 per cent growth in 2015), and is currently showing no signs of slowing down. As an extension to its #AerieReal campaign, the company in April revealed its #AerieMan campaign. Thismarks its pledge to forego retouching even male models in their underwear and swimwear products, beginning Holiday 2016 (23 per cent growth in 2016).With growing internet penetration, a consistent
giants
customer shift from store to online shopping and the increased usage of smartphones and tablets, the company is led to shrink its store countand focus more on e-commerce channel.
Meanwhile, the market major Victoria’s Secret, which still dominates the lingerie segment, worth at least US $ 1 billion in US alone, is struggling to gain momentum. The retailer sales is seeing a slump, decreasing at 13 per cent in March, year-over-year, as the company continues to feel the impact of discontinuingits non-athletic apparel and swimwear ranges in 2016. Experts believe that while many retailers are catering to the millennials, Victoria’s Secret being one of them, millennials are against logos, which Victoria’s Secret resonateswith. Also, Victoria’s Secret product images on the website are not a representation of an average woman, resulting in millennials opting for other lingerie brands. The brand has also received flak for its ‘Perfect Body’ campaign, whose impact was so negative that the retailer had to pull out the campaign. This gap in the market and a curiosity to tap the potential of millennials has provided room for niche brands to growin the lingerie segment such as Lively, Naja, Negative Underwear and Third Love who are promoting their products byproviding an inclusive, female-centric identity that’s more about the wearer and less about Contd. on page 46
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Contd. from page 44 who might be looking at her.Also, these brands are offering a wider collection of nude shades, hoping to serve various ethnicities and aiming to undercut competitors on pricing through direct to consumer distribution. While mass market brands such asAerie and Madewell which had launched intimates in February are doing well, Phillips Van Heusen acquired True &Co., a vertically integrated online brand that’s known for its fit, which launched in March.More recently, Amazon’s announcement of entering the market with a private label brand, with its own line called Iris & Lilly, is creating a storm in the market. It has been already launched in the UK with limited assortment of sizes and colours. With its widespread reach of supplier network, Amazon can negotiate for the lowest prices, which is rightfully evident as the company’scost of a bra is as low as US $ 8 in comparison to Targets US $15 and Victoria’s Secret average of US $40. In fact, online stores are continuing to dominate the global lingerie market, offering convenience, varieties and a wide range of offers, discounts and coupons to its consumers. The growing penetration of internet, mobile internet specifically among the millennials, is expected to further drive the e-commerce segment. With the help of accurate size charts and description, lingerie can be purchased through online shopping with an easy option of exchange orreturn. Hence, industry experts believe that all these factors enable the creation of a broad product range which suits every budget and lures a bigger consumer base in the global lingerie market. New entrants to the market offering products at low cost and the convenience of online shopping, are seen booming in the ongoing lingerie market, which was earlier dominated just by major players.
Macy's names new EVP and CTO American fashion retailer Macy’s Inc. has announced appointment of Yasir Anwar to the role of Executive Vice President and Chief Technology Officer, with immediate effect. He will oversee all technology functions for Macy’s and will drive the alignment of the retailer’s technology efforts with the company’s strategy.
He will be responsible for the teams that build end-toend e-commerce experience, enterprise-shared services, infrastructure, field services and functional IT support. In another development, Mike Robinson has been named Executive Vice President – Product Management and Customer Experience. In this role, Robinson will manage all aspects of product management, portfolio and user experiences for digital, store and omnichannel systems.
Robinson will oversee a unified product and portfolio vision, allowing customers to shop seamlessly and easily across all Macy’s, Inc. channels. “Maximizing our technology capabilities and continuing the strong growth of our digital and mobile platforms is a high priority for Macy’s, Inc. and we are restructuring our technology teams to support these efforts,” said President and Chief Executive
Officer Jeff Gennette, adding, “Bringing the Macy’s technology teams together under Yasir’s leadership will result in faster time to market and decision making through a streamlined IT organization that will create nimble platforms for continuous business transformation. Mike’s focus on product and customer experience will ensure that our best customer continues to be able to shop the way she lives both online and in-store.”
Luxury brand Michael Kors announces closure of over 100 stores US-based global luxury lifestyle brand Michael Kors Holdings Limited has announced closure of more than 100 of its full-price retail stores over the next two years. As on April 1, 2017, the company operated 827 retail stores, including concessions, compared to 668 retail stores, including concessions, at the end of the same prior-year period. It had 133 additional retail stores, including concessions, operated through licensing partners. Including licensed locations, there were 960 Michael Kors stores worldwide at the end of the fourth quarter of fiscal 2017.
Drop in revenue in the fourth quarter of the year is reportedly the reason behind the fashion brand’s latest move. Its total
revenue decreased by 11.2 per cent to US$ 1.06 billion from US $ 1.20 billion in the fourth quarter of fiscal 2016.
Tailored Brands witnesses tough Q1 Tailored Brands, a leading specialty retailer of men’s suits, has consolidated financial results for the fiscal first quarter ending April 29, 2017. During the quarter under review, total net sales decreased 5.5 per cent to US $ 782.9 million. Retail segment net sales decreased by 5.3 per cent primarily due to the impact of last year’s store closures as well as comparable sales decline. Corporate apparel segment net sales also decreased by 8.0 per cent due to unfavourable currency fluctuations partially offset by higher USsales. During the said quarter, comparable sales at Men’s Wearhouse decreased by 3.1 per cent. The drop in comparable sales resulted principally from a decline
RETAIL SEGMENT NET SALES DECREASED BY 5.3% PRIMARILY DUE TO THE IMPACT OF LAST YEAR’S STORE CLOSURES…
in transactions partially offset by an increase in average unit retail while units per transaction were essentially flat. Comparable rental services revenue decreased by 0.9 per cent.
Commenting on the results, Tailored Brands Chief Executive Officer Doug Ewert said “After a tough February, our first quarter comparable sales improved as the quarter progressed. We
were pleased to have reached an agreement with Macy’s to wind down our tuxedo rental partnership, which eliminates the risk of extended future operating losses and enables us to focus on our rental business at Men’s Wearhouse, Jos. A. Bank and Moores.”
Outdoor apparel brand Regatta to make US debut UK’s largest outdoor and leisure clothing brand, Regatta Great Outdoors, will now make its retail debut in the US market exclusively through 11 Sears shops all over the New England area. From this fall, the Regatta collections will be available on sears.com and a number of Massachusetts Sears stores such as Saugus, Burlington, Braintree, Natick, Hyannis among a few others. Keith Black, CEO, Regatta Great Outdoors explains, “We chose Sears for our American debut because their customers align well to the type of enthusiasts who have fallen in love with the Regatta brand in Britain and across Europe. With its seasonality, vast outdoor adventure and leisure
options, New England is the perfect region to introduce the brand.” Established in 1981, with a focus on active performance, outdoors and leisure domains, Regatta has enjoyed unparalleled success, becoming Europe’s most popular label offering outdoor clothing, footwear and equipment under one roof. With recent launches of brands like R1893, Simply Styled and Simply Emma, Sears is also continuously pushing the lines of its offerings for its current customers as well as executing the key strategy to gain new buyers in a dwindling retail atmosphere. David Pastrana, President, Sears Apparel said, “Our members’ tastes change quickly so we are
always looking for partners who can help keep our assortment fresh. Regatta is a long-established apparel leader that knows its customers well and was selective
about who they made their US debut with. Sears is proud to be Regatta’s exclusive home and we welcome American shoppers to discover this great brand.”
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Columbia Sportswear restructures executive posts Outdoor clothing, accessories and equipment retailer Columbia Sportswear has opted for a major restructuring of executive leadership line-up as a part of an on-organizational assessment kick-started by the company in the beginning of 2017. As a part of the move, Tom Cusick, who is currently the CFO and Treasurer of the company will move up to the position of Executive VP and COO; Franco Fogliato will move up to be the EVP, Americas General Manager, and will be responsible for the company’s wholesale and direct-to-consumer sales tasks in North America; Matthieu Schegg will take up Fogliato’s old position as Vice President, EMEA General Manager, and oversee the company’s wholesale and direct-to-
consumer sales in Europe. Meanwhile, Joe Boyle will be promoted to EVP, Columbia Brand President, and will be in-charge for the creation of Columbia brand apparel, footwear, accessories, and equipment internationally; Doug Morse, will now be the Senior VP,Emerging Brands and APAC, directing the leaders at the house’s Mountain Hardwear, prAna and Sorel brands and will oversee their dealings in Japan, China and Korea. Peter Bragdon, who has served as EVP, Chief Administrative Officer, General Counsel, and Secretary of the company since 2015, will adopt oversight of the firm’s global distributor business and expand his leadership of Government affairs, external relations and corporate
communications, in addition to his current duties. Commenting on the changes made, Tim Boyle, President and CEO, Columbia Sportswear, said, “We have established strong momentum behind our portfolio of dynamic brands. We are committed to being a brand-led,consumer-
first organization with clarity in strategy and direction across brands, regions and channels. I am confident that the leadership structure we are announcing today will enhance our ability to successfully execute our strategic plan and to further drive sustainable, profitable growth.”
Guess faces EC antitrust investigation over distribution practices restrict authorized retailers from selling online to consumers or to retailers in other Member States. They may also restrict wholesalers from selling to retailers in other Member States.
The European Commission (EC) has opened a formal antitrust investigation into the distribution agreements and practices of clothing manufacturer and retailer Guess. The Commission will examine whether Guess illegally restricts retailers from selling cross-border to consumers within the EU Single Market. Commissioner Margrethe Vestager, In-Charge of Competition Policy said, “The Commission has information indicating that Guess, in its distribution agreements, may ban cross-border sales to consumers. One of the key benefits of the EU’s Single Market is that
consumers can shop around for a better deal. We are going to investigate Guess’ practices further to ensure that it’s playing by the rules and not preventing
consumers from buying products across borders.” The Commission will investigate information indicating that Guess’ distribution agreements may
Guess designs, distributes and licenses clothing and accessories. Guess’ apparel is marketed under numerous trademarks, including “GUESS?” and “MARCIANO”.Guess’ agreements under investigation may be in breach of EU competition rules (Article 101 of the Treaty on the Functioning of the EuropeanUnion), which prohibit agreements between companies that prevent, restrict or distort competition within the EU’s Single Market.
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Hugo Boss appoints new CFO Hugo Boss, one of the world’s largest fashion company, has appointed Yves Müller as the new Chief Financial Officer. Müller will take care of Investor Relations and Administration within the Hugo Boss Group in his role of CFO. Throwing light on his term commencement, the company informed that it will be not later than January 1, 2018.
Reebok seeks approval to open single brand retail stores in India The India wing of Reebok, a global athletic footwear and apparel company, has submitted its proposal to Department of Industrial Policy and Promotion (DIPP) seeking its approval to open single brand retail stores in the country. The application is under consideration. Currently, Adidas AG sells Adidas and Reebok sports shoes and clothes inIndia. According to the Foreign Direct Investment or FDI policy of the country, 100 per cent equity investment is allowed in single brand retail trading. FDI of up to 49 per cent is permitted under the automatic route but Government’s nod is required beyond thatlimit.
It is pertinent to mentionhere that the Indian Government may further ease the rules to allow 100 per cent Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) through automatic route in single brand retail. The Government is considering this
move to make India a more friendly place for global investors. Foreign investment is allowed subject to certain conditions, which require products to be of a ‘single brand’ only and to be sold underthe same brand globally.
Perry Ellis inks deal with Ripley Corp. to enter Chile Beginning his professional career in 1994, Müller moved to Tchibo GmbH in 1999 where he held various positions in top management. In 2006, he was appointed to the Management Board of Tchibo GmbH, where he became Chief Financial Officer.
“Yves Müller possesses a deep understanding of finance and will be bringing in many years of profound experience in the retail industry to Hugo Boss. We believe that this know-how makes him an outstanding fit for the company’s Managing Board,” said Michel Perraudin, Supervisory Board Chairman, Hugo Boss.
A leading designer, distributor and licensor of high-end men’s and women’s apparel, accessories and fragrances – Perry Ellis International has signed a license agreement with Comercial ECCSA S.A./Ripley Corp. in Chile to sell apparel, accessories and footwear under the Gotcha brand. George Feldenkreis, Executive Chairman, Perry Ellis International, commented, “Our Company is pleased to enter into a partnership with Ripley Department Store to maximize the potential of the Gotcha brand in Chile. We feel Ripley will be a terrific partner for Gotcha and this license will enhance our global reach across product categories and
geographies to drive further growth and profitability.”
sports, surfing, skateboarding or snowboarding.
A classic surfwear company that prides itself in the combining of freestyling, fashion and fun for the spirited Californian, Gotcha is famous for its apparel that grips onto action water-based
The complete lifestyle collection, which includes a surf range as well as men’s and women’s knits, wovens, T-shirts, bottoms and surf accessories will begin retailing from Fall 2017.
RESOURCE CENTRE
Navis Global keeping pace with global demand Asian markets account for 75% of business
In the global knitting industry, Navis Global has earned a remarkable reputation for the depth of technology that they can provide for quality production of finished knitted fabric, the most popular being compactors, pads and dryers. With 75% of business in Asian markets where the majority of production is happening today, the company is always looking at new opportunities to support its customer base and in recent years through acquisitions and partnerships, the company has also become very strong in wovens, non-wovens, and in industrial and technical textiles segments. In an exclusive discussion with Apparel Online, William J. Motchar, President & CEO, Navis Global, shares his thoughts on some critical areas of future growth. Excerpts from the interview‌
AO: What are the factors that make your machines so popular in the knitting segment? William Motchar: All our machines run at the highest speed and provide the requisite quality parameters that brands and retailers require. We have designed our compactor for quick changeover because it is required by many customers especially in South Asia where small lot sizes are produced. Since we can provide the compaction needed in one pass through our machine, and we run at a speed of 2-3 times compared to our competitors, our running cost is much lower than our competitors.
AO: Kindly brief us about the SCS (Spirality Correction System), which is among your latest developments in the market. William Motchar: The system is for tubular knitting and though the intake was slow at the beginning, the demand for this machine is growing rapidly. It is a very unique technology that solves the spirality problem for knit fabrics. Though spirality is a problem for all knit fabrics, it causes maximum issues for knit fabrics made with ring spun yarn. We have over 10 machines running in South Asia (India, Bangladesh, Pakistan) and we are currently installing machines in
Central America for all the large producers there. All high-end brands like Michael Kors, Perry Ellis, Ralph Lauren, etc. as well as basic apparel manufacturers are either already using SCS technology or they are targeting to implement SCS soon.
AO: How important is IndiaBangladesh-Vietnam for Navis Tubetex and where is the next frontier for growth? William Motchar: These three countries – India, Bangladesh, and Vietnam – are critical markets for our company. While India and Bangladesh are consistently in our list of top 5 markets, Vietnam is also growing rapidly. We have many current projects in Vietnam and are expecting our business to increase there further. Among the new markets coming up, the African market is on the path of development and I see it where South Asia was 10-15 years ago. We are already selling machines there now and I think we will grow there exponentially in future because of plenty of foreign investment in Africa.
AO: How are the countries placed in terms of demand for tubular as well as open width compactor machines, and why? William Motchar: Currently India has more demand for open width
compactor, while Bangladesh and Vietnam have roughly equal demand for tubular and open width. The overall trend is for more open width. Generally high-fashion expensive garments are finished open width and basic apparel like T-shirts, underwear, etc. are finished tubular. This explains why India has a bigger demand for open-width compactors.
AO: The industry is moving toward fourth generation technology under Industry 4.0. How is Navis Tubetex gearing up to keep pace? William Motchar: We have been involved with several customers in their efforts to proceed in the domain of Industry 4.0. We are working with them to equip our machines with the latest electronic technology that will allow them to collect extensive data from the machines to integrate into their plant wide systems. It is a huge growth area for sure. We have been investing heavily into the technical textiles area. Most of our business in this area is currently in North and South America. It is a good market segment for us because it requires high technology and process know-how which matches our capabilities and thus does not have the pricing pressure of basic fabric manufacturing machinery.
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Niche products help Vardhman retain its growth in Bangladesh Amongst the biggest names in textiles in India, with one of the largest spinning & fabric capacities, Vardhman Textiles has established its firm ground in Bangladesh since the last 5 years. In a candid discussion with Apparel Online, Kulbir Kundu, Country Manager – Bangladesh, unravels the company’s roller coaster journey so far to sustain amidst the stiffly competitive textile market of this country. With an initial high followed by a distinctly low phase and a gradual revival, this textile giant has rapidly modified its business strategies to carve its own niche regardless of the presence of several small- and medium-level players with the shortest lead time that have emerged in the last few years.
ighlighting the rapidly evolving Bangladesh textile industry and its increasing weaving capacity, Kulbir asserts, “Local mills have increased their capacity and product capabilities. There are also several fresh mills that have ventured in the fabric segment.” He further adds that these mills are delivering reasonable quality fabric. The challenges do not stop here. Lead time is also another constraint for this Indian textile mill as it takes 14-15 days for its trucks to cross the Benapole border successfully due to the poor infrastructure present there. This was one of the prime reasons behind Vardhman’s sluggish performance some time back, more so as the borders were overcrowded for a period of time, leading to further delays. In spite of all these challenges, Vardhman has been able to sustain its volume by adding new customers and shortening production lead time which was possible due to big in-house production capacity from yarn to fabric.
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Vardhman has also bounced back significantly by diversifying into many new products which it earlier did not have, effectively recovering its lost ground. An optimistic Kulbir states, “About 3-4 years back, we started our liquid ammonia plant. Last year, we added our printing plant as we were losing orders in its absence. In terms of product basket,
FACT With fast-evolving new product categories, Kulbir Kundu, Country Manager – Bangladesh predicts that the market growth of Bangladesh is slow (2.5%) in the current year, it would bounce back and achieve the target of 10% annual growth, considering the responsiveness and capabilities of the entrepreneurs in the country.
Kulbir Kundu, Country Manager –Bangladesh, Vardhman Textiles
we diversified our mix. It is now not only in cotton. We create blends like cotton tencel stretch, cotton modal super stretch and difficult products like bi-stretch. These are the types of products which are in demand in the ladies’ wear segment.” Moreover, the country manager confirms that his company is aiming at the product qualities offered by China which is mainly polyester and polyester stretch, cotton polystretch and viscose although originally, they manufactured cotton and cotton stretch at the maximum. With India being the hub of raw materials like tencel fibre and different types of yarn, these product
variations were not difficult to be achieved by Vardhman. They are now producing 100% tencel, 100% modal and are very competitive in terms of their lead time as compared to China. Kulbir clarifies that their focus on their basics or core programs still accounts for 70-75% of their total volume as they have a huge capacity build-up. He shares, “Whatever is the quantity, we can easily deliver them provided we have the projections because we are a big mill with a huge capacity and an extensive R &D centre.” Playing at one end on niche and another on volumes, the company has devised a winning balance.
It is indeed remarkable to note the expansion that Vardhman has undergone in Bangladesh especially in the bottomwear segment despite their earlier benchmark in shirt fabrics. Explaining the factors that inspired them to go for this massive shift, Kulbir avers, “In shirts, the major component is yarn dyed varieties for which local mills are now quite capable as their prices and deliveries are good and their quality is just fine. Because of this tight competition in shirts domain, we started offering different types of blends, washes and finishes.’ Even in fabric finishes, Vardhman offers qualities like moisture management and climate control which are highly appreciated by the buyers and they hope to take it up also in their next upcoming season. Going forward, the focus for Vardhman in Bangladesh is predominantly
into the bottoms business for both men and women. Even in shirting which still constitutes a big part of their product category, they have transformed to more modal and tencel based fabrics which is seeing a surge in demand in the women’s clothing section. With fast-evolving new product categories, Kulbir predicts that though the market growth of Bangladesh is slow (2.5%) in the current year, it would bounce back and achieve the target of 10% annual growth, considering the responsiveness and capabilities of the entrepreneurs in the country. He is quick to admit that this market would never see an absolutely lull phase as it generates consistent business for those who are actively involved in this trade. With some of the world’s leading brands as its major buyers like GAP,
“… In terms of product basket, we diversified our mix. It is now not only in cotton. We create blends like cotton tencel stretch, cotton modal super stretch and difficult products like bistretch…” – Kulbir Kundu, Country Manager – Bangladesh, Vardhman Textiles
JCPenney, American Eagle, H &M, M&S, s.Oliver and even Inditex, Vardhman continues to prove its mettle in fabric manufacturing. With a strong belief in the concept of made to order, they endeavour to present their clients with new qualities every time by seeking inputs from their buyers and also presenting collections from their own ideas. The strong design and product development team which creates ideas and converts them into beautiful niche fabrics is the key which gives Vardhman an edge over its competitors. Vardhman’s current strategic orientation is towards keeping the buyers’ interests alive which makes it unique and way ahead of the local mills who are still largely focused on supplying volumes to the buyers.
Gerber - IIGM partnership brings new thrust to Bangladesh operations fter celebrating 25 glorious years of working together in India, internationally acclaimed Gerber Technology, a pioneer in cutting room solutions and India Industrial Garment Machines (IIGM), have raised the bar of ‘service and support’ in Bangladesh. Though Gerber has been in Bangladesh for a long time supported by a local distributor, IIGM is now providing the service edge that was missing.
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There is a clear recognition that Bangladesh is an important market for Gerber Technology and continuing with a single partner is not the best way to capture opportunities that are arising in the market. The industry in the country is on an invest drive, with companies looking at best solutions to support growth with more effective and productive technologies. It cannot be denied that an export target of US $ 50 billion by 2021 requires not only the willingness of garment manufacturers but also the support of technology providers with highly flexible and automated solutions. Gerber Technology is one of the leading companies for nearly half a century and has been dedicated to offering the most advanced solutions in the cutting industry. Since the beginning, Gerber has been continuously innovating intelligent technologies and leading solutions to maximize productivity, efficiency and to decrease costs at IIGM which is its partner for over two decades and has been able to carry the same message to its customers, erecting a perfect bridge between the technology and the final user. There latest technologies like the Gerber Paragon Cutting System HX can cut up to 7.2 cm of compressed material, and is quick too. Besides, it has accurate set-up and selfadjusting cutting intelligence that allows for faster cutting and greater efficiency. Integrated with Gerber AccuMark® CAD and automated spreading systems, Accumark generates cut orders automatically, and cut ticket for a specific workflow. Process of spreading is also simplified by
(L to R) –Clifford Galstaun, Sales Manager of South WestAsia, Gerber Technology; Sajith Kumar, Vice President, IIGM; and Louis Hoi, Sales Director, Gerber Technology
scanning the barcode to generate the number of plies as required and then material plies could be spread automatically. After the spreading process is accomplished, cutting system generates another code for this specific material. The goal is to minimize human error, and maximize automation. Today, pro-active companies have understood that sticking to manual cutting is not the solution as it means too much dependency on human skills that result in low efficiency and human errors. By integrating cutting rooms with software systems, chances of error and cost per human input can be minimized. This is where Gerber plays an important role, but alongside great technology there is also requirement of training, effective responsiveness and partnership approach to implementation. IIGM has been brought in to fill this role. Through its strong relation with Gerber, IIGM has established a strong and capable team in realizing Gerber business growth. The management at Gerber acknowledges that IIGM’s capabilities in providing quick and efficient service have helped them to build great customer satisfaction in India, which will be the case too in Bangladesh. With a well-equipped and technically sound training centre in the region, IIGM has the wherewithal to ensure that effective training is
ESSENTIALS It cannot be denied that an export target of US $ 50 billion by 2021 requires not only the willingness of garment manufacturers, but also the support of technology providers with highly flexible and automated solutions.
provided to companies opting for Gerber technologies. There are about 120 apparel manufacturing groups in Bangladesh comprising of 8-10 companies each and it can be safely said that 70% of business comes from these groups. Providing support to these groups requires both experience and efforts, and of course strong service teams. “Gerber Service is around the world. Global network of highly-skilled technical support professionals and field service engineers are committed to help customers maximize their profitability always,” says Clifford Galstaun, Sales Manager of South West Asia, Gerber Technology. IIGM is thrilled to be a partner of Gerber in Bangladesh andsupports apparel manufacturing industry. Sajith Kumar, Vice President, IIGM, emphasizing on the importance of customer service says, “We have a CRM system connecting the machinesand it helps us analyse all breakdowns, logging timing from breakdown to recovery; better monitoring less downtime. It is dedicated to support industry when adopting and adapting to newtechnologies.” In an effort to provide hands-on support to the regional strategies of Gerber, IIGM has developed an efficient warehouse, which guarantees full-line supply of Gerber equipment that our lead time is no longer a concern at all.
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Er gonomics in Appar el Manufacturing – V
OCCUPATIONAL HEALTH & SAFETY POLICY AND ASSESSMENT MANUAL In earlier articles we have already discussed, with varying examples, the importance of ergonomics and different facets of ergonomics in apparel manufacturing. Also discussed, along with their solutions, were the problems and the cumulative trauma disorders, and its interrelation with postures faced in day-to-day operations. In this fifth and last article of the five-part series on ergonomics, Dr. Prabir Jana, NIFT Delhi discusses about the step-by-step procedure for developing and implementing a company’s occupational health & safety policy.
Why is Occupational Health & Safety so Important? Reduced workers fatigue, reduced sickness of employees resulting in less absenteeism, reduced risk of injury at work (Repetitive Strain Injuries, Cumulative Trauma Disorders, etc.), increase in worker motivation and loyalty to employees resulting in less job turnover, increase in quality of output, increase in quantity of output and efficient work force are some of the obvious reasons why the health &safety policy is so important. Moreover occupational health & safety guidelines help an organization in documenting each and every operation, thus taking a step forward towards implementation of any Total Quality Management (TQM) system. Assessment and proper documentation of health &safety regulations also helps to deal with workers claim. Making occupational health &safety an assessment manual for an organization requires identifying and scripting the following sections:
• Identify areas of Responsibility, Hazards, Assess Risk (Risk Assessment); • List Job Safety Information; • Decide on Emergency Arrangements, Maintenance of Controls, Routine Inspections, TrainingRecords; • Finally, Prepare The Action List.
Each of the sections mentioned above will require one or more formats to be prepared and filled up.
Area of responsibility Define your nature (field) and area (physical dimension) of responsibilities. For example, all managers are responsiblefor: • Physical condition of premises, equipment, vehicles under their control; • Activities carried out by people working in thepremises; • Staff working for them whilst on the premises and any other visitors or contract workers. Fill up Area of Responsibility Form drawing out boundaries of responsibility, including storerooms, plant areas and access routes. Identify the Responsible Managers for every concerned department bytheir name. Record the equipment of that department in separate form.
Hazards Hazards and hazardous activities in the workplace A hazard is a situation with the potential for causing injury. First identify the physical hazards that are present in your workplace. The only way to do this is by a thorough initial inspection of all the areas within your area of control. Identify the preventive and control measures in specific situations, for example if a stack of
ESSENTIALS Accidents are not the result of mere hazardous conditions, but it’s also the result of ‘unsafe working practices’, or in other words ‘hazardous activities’.
cartons were to fall, or if the cutting m/c blade were to touch the finger, or if the broken m/c needle were to spring back to eye. Accidents are not only the result of hazardous conditions, but also result in unsafe working practices, or in other words, ‘hazardous activities’. Observe the jobs people do in your area,both as part of their normal work or as an occasional task. Record all activities in your area on a form. Remember, some people may do a variety of different activities as part of their job. For example, a sewing room helper may do both pocket marking and pocket folding. Give each task a reference number. Then, identify special hazards directly related to work and arrange training to avoid contact with potential hazards. The control measures maybe: • In the form of physical safeguards, such as guarding machines, using barriers or controlsystems; • Dependant on information and instruction given in site rules or warning notices; • Relying on training andclose supervision; • Personal protection. For each hazard, decide how the potential for injury is controlled; for example, the stack of cartons being supported by railing, using protective wire gloves while cutting or ensuring protection through a glass fitted in front of the machine while engaged
in working. Knowing the number of people employed in an activity is useful when we assess the risk. Even knowing the special hazards help to decide on priorities for assessment. Use checklist to identify potentially hazardous work activities and then write the details of each one onto the form. As you inspect the workplace, you will probably find matters that should be rectified before completing the assessment (see Table2).
Risk assessment You must now assess the risks associated with the hazards you have identified. The hazards may have serious consequences without proper control measures. Estimate both the probability and consequences of failures. For each hazard, determine: • The consequences like minor injury, illness due to injury, disablement due to injury, fatality or multiple fatality, etc. • How the risk is normallycontrolled? If the control measures were to fail or deteriorate, then what is the likely outcome and how probable is this?
The risk assessment ranking table will help you to give each hazard a risk ranking. The priority increases with either probability or consequences. The priority is greatest if both ratings are large. Any risk, complex, unusual and difficult to assess may be recorded in the form Special Assessment.
Job safety information Appropriate information on the hazards and control measures must be provided to those at risk. The greater the risk, the more detailed the control measures required. First identify the basic site rules for your workplace. Decide which activities are adequately controlled by these rules. Then, identify which additional activities are left. Those require specific documentation of the special control measures that must be adopted. Complete a Job Safety Sheet for such
activities. Control measures can be grouped into three categories: Physical Safeguards; System of Working; and PersonalProtection. Physical safeguards – Any engineering control measure provided, for example: • Barriers andhandrails,
Table 1: Hazardous conditions and their control measures DANGER OF
DUE TO
CONTROLMEASURES
People falling
Open stairways / Changes in level / Floor surface uneven / Walking over fabric rolls in fabric warehouse
Put fences, railing. Mark with yellow lines for unevensurface
Falling materials
Carton and fabric bale storage above head height. Unprotected edges of work platforms. Loading / unloading of bale, carton, machine on truck
Re-design storage space. Use protective helmets in loading bay
Dangerous equipment
Band knife and straight knife cutting machine / Electrical equipment / Pressurised boilers in finishing room
Use protective wire gloves
Lifting Equipment
Fork lift trolleys / Lift / Hoist for goods andpassengers
Dangerous substances
Toxic/corrosive/irritant/harmful (certain chemicals used in spotting, stain removing and garment dyeing/ processing). Flammable materials (drycleaning chemicals) / liquids/LPG
Label the bottles with warning message
Health hazards
Dusts / airborne cotton fibres / Gases / vapours (spotting chemicals)
Usemasks
Radiations
LASERS (marking lights in cutting table & sewing workstations). Ultra Violet (UV chambersin testing laboratory)
Use protective goggles
Noise / Vibrations
Poor quality machine table
Basement
Poor or choked ventilation
Manualhandling
Handling of fabric roll in cutting dept. Handling of garment bags in finishing and washing dept. Loading / unloading of bales, cartons, machines.
Use Ergonomic workstation for minimizing injuries
Chemicalhazards
Textile testing laboratory analysis / Garment dyeing and washing
Label the bottles with warning message
Vehicle movements
Driving / loading / unloading
Restrict personnel movement in vehicle movement area. Use hooter
Maintenance
Machine tool setting and adjustment(Mechanic workshop). Welding / brazing / fabrication
Use eye protection, ear plugs
• Ventilation systems, and • Fixed or interlocked guards System of working – The arrangement for the conduct of the job, for example: • Permits or procedures for authorization, and • Requirements to be accompanied or assisted Personal protection – The equipment to protect against injuries or ill health, for example: • Respirators, breathing apparatus, mask,
• Protective clothing, gloves and footwear, • Eye protection, helmets, bump caps, etc., andfinally, • Tie your hairback! Any operator must be informed of the risks involved in their job before they start, i.e. during induction training. A list similar to Table 3 can be of help. Quality controllers of buying companies working in your premises also require Job Safety Information. They are responsible for safe conduct of their work. You are responsible for their safety in work place. In particular, they must be aware of your emergency procedures.
Emergency arrangements Emergency arrangements are required to respond to situations of serious danger that may arise like: fire or bomb threat, serious injury or ill health at work, flooding from rainwater or burst pipes, explosions of electrical items by short circuit, steam boiler, etc. A five-point plan can be applied as a standard framework for emergencies, like:
Table 2: Potentially hazardous work activities Department / Unit: Warehouse / Cutting Dept. Warehouse / Cutting Dept.: S. Singh Job Ref
Activity
(No. ofEmp)
Location
W1
Typist
2
Fabricwarehouse
W2
Band knife cutting
1
Cuttingdepartment
SpecialHazard
Dangerous equipment
Schedule of work activities Hazards Cutting finger in band knife Falling hair caught on machine belt
Location
Nature ofControl
Cuttingdept
Using wiregloves
Sewing dept
Tie hair back
• Detection: How will an emergency be discovered? Are there automaticdetectors? • Raising the alarm: How will those at risk be alerted? How will assistance be summoned? • Evacuation: Who all must be evacuated? • Containment: How will the emergency be prevented from spreading? • Response: What must be done to regain control? When can people return to work? For each emergency foreseen, complete an emergency response sheet. An emergency arrangement sheet for sewing room during fire is shown in Table4.
Table 3: Rating the risk involved in the job PROBABILITY
SCORE
A certainty – likelyto happen at any moment
10
Highly probable – could occur 2 or 3 times a year
8
Likely – would expect to happen once a year
6
Improbable – would not expect to happen in 2-3 years
4
Unlikely –would not expect to happen in 5 years
2
Table 4: An emergency arrangement sheet for sewing room during fire Area:
Warehouse
Detection
Automatic smoke detectors / manual glass break points
Alarm
Continuous ringing bell & visible intimation by person
Evacuation
Via main entrance / Through fire exit doors
Containment
Use fire extinguishers if possible / Switch off electrical connection / Close all doors and windows while leaving
Hazardous substance
Large quantity of white petrol present in store
Table 5: Routine inspection checklist Look at
Lookfor
Access
Fire exit doors free. Fire exit route not obstructed
(means ofescape)
Fire doors clearly marked
Fire Precautions
Fire extinguishers in good conditions at fire points and easily accessible. Fire alarm points readily accessible and clearly marked Emergency action details displayed in local language
Electrical Safety
Fuseboards/switchgears secured and closed Cables free from damage Plug tops intact and no loose connection
Equipment
Guarding in a position and secured Emergency stop controls
Working effectively Lighting
General workplacelighting effective Specific task lighting (needlelights) operational Emergency lighting operational when required Windowscleaned effectively
Ventilation &Comfort
Adequate in numbers and operational Humidity and temperature maintained
Safety Policy of ABC Limited We (The Company) are committed to the development and implementation of management practices designed toensure the Health & Safety, and Welfare of employees, customers and neighbours. The standards of safety within individual departments are seen as everyone’s concern and all employees are expected to take an active part in assisting the company to achieve and maintain these standards.
Maintenance of controls It is the responsibility of the Manager to ensure that appropriate maintenance programmes are devised and implementedfor different safeguards like: Fire alarm detection system (statutory inspections); lifts, hoists, generators (statutory inspections); compressor pressure release valve; steam boiler pressure release valve; machine belt guards; and eye protection glass; emergency stop switch in automatic workstation; and helmets, masks, wire gloves. For each safeguard determine the maintenance required, the frequency and person who will do thework.
Routine inspections To ensure that all necessary control measures are used and remain effective, there is a need for routine inspection. To decide who will inspect and when the inspection will be made, prepare a checklist similar to Table5.
Information on individual factory’s performance will be collected and monitored. Safety panels consisting of senior production personnel and representatives of employees will meet on a regular basis to discuss problems.
Training records
Standards of compliance will be monitored throughout the group factories by inspections and audits.
• The emergency arrangements.
We (The Company) believe that through these measures all group employees will make a substantial contribution to the enhancement of health & safety procedures above the high levels that have alreadybeen attained.
Action list
Everyone must be trained in the safety requirements of the work they do.Training must be provided when: • Starting work for the first time in your area, • Transferring to other work activities, • New equipment/methods introduced. All those who work in your area mustknow: • The hazards their work may involve. • The precautions they must take to ensure safety. A Training Record Form should be filled up with all safety training and instruction details as a proof of training and also inventory of work force.
During your initial hazard survey, record all those matters that require attention in Action List Form. For each action, set a target date for completion and update when completed. This form may be used recording new discovery during routine inspection.
Conclusion Although making a manual is a tedious and cumbersome work, it is worth drafting a manual for an organization. It not only brings transparency and clarity of processes, but clearly defines responsibility and authority. A well-drafted manual assist in worker-related legal issues. The manual should be draftedby trained professionals, since a poorly drafted manual may cause damage to the company.
TRADE STATISTICS
US apparel imports sharply increase in April January-April
2017
After March, US rose for the second consecutive month as its apparel imports have sharply increased in April. This is a clear sign that the country is rebounding now. A significant fall of unit prices in China and Vietnam might be a factor behind this surge as quantity-wise, these two countries are the top exporters to the US. Since President Trump intends to renegotiate NAFTA which might produce more apparel jobs in the country, it will be an interesting scenario to see how it would impact apparel imports in future.
‘Facts and Forecast’ for US Apparel Industry
Global Apparel Imports by the US: Jan.-Apr. 2017
USD
98 %
Total Increase in Quantity
2.24 %
30 %
324 bn
apparel sold in US are
global apparel market
projected apparel 2017 in US
Total Decrease in Value
1.71 % 3.94 % (Average UVR in the review period was US $ 2.92 as against US $ 3.04 in the same period last year)
Total global apparel imports by the US - Jan.-Apr. 2017 (Qty in mn SME & Value in US mn $)
MMF
1.85 %
9.90 % Silk & Veg
%Change
Qty
Value
Qty
Value
Qty
Value
3763.894
12382.937
3687.436
11886.889
-2.03
-4.01
Wool
32.493
594.505
29.882
535.627
-8.04
-9.90
MMF
4288.689
11313.948
4555.258
11522.823
6.22
1.85
Silk & Veg
142.807
697.567
139.459
615.548
-2.34
-11.76
Total
8227.88
24988.96
8412.04
24560.89
2.24
-1.71
Cotton
4.01 %
Jan.-Apr.2017
Type ofApparel
Change in Value Wool
average consumer spending in US apparel market
is average price per piece in US apparel market
Jan.-Apr.2016
Cotton
910
9.53
pieces are average volume/ person in US
Percentage Decrease in UVR
USD
USD
107
11.76 % Total apparel exports to the US by 6 major manufacturing destinations - Jan.-Apr. 2017
Change in Quantity
(Qty in mn SME & Value in US mn $)
Jan.-Apr.2016
Cotton
2.03 % MMF
6.22 %
Wool
8.04 % Silk & Veg
2.34 %
[The information has been extracted from US custom site and further analyzed.]
Jan.-Apr.2017
%Change
Countries
India Bangladesh China Pakistan
SriLanka Vietnam
Qty
Value
Qty
Value
Qty
Value
400.573
1425.488
397.974
1378.896
-0.65
-3.27
658.953
1857.115
648.05
1740.184
-1.65
-6.30
2986.252
7704.638
3127.624
7438.56
4.73
-3.45
178.842
395.841
163.983
388.011
-8.31
-1.98
166.831
702.218
160.506
675.235
-3.79
-3.84
1058.532
3348.844
1185.88
3622.258
12.03
8.16
Unit Value Realization (UVR) Trend from Top Apparel Exporters to US (January to April 2017)
Top 3 Quantity-wise Apparel Exporters to US (January to April 2017)
4.50
8%
4.00
6%
3.50
4%
3.00
2%
2.50
0%
2.00
-2%
1.50
-4%
1.00
-6%
0.50
-8%
0.00 UVR 16 UVR 17 % Change
-10% India
Bangladesh
China
Pakistan
Sri Lanka
Vietnam
3.56
2.82
2.58
2.21
4.21
3.16
3.46
2.69
2.38
2.37
4.21
3.05
-2.81%
-4.61%
-7.75%
7.24%
0.00%
-3.48%
US General Imports of Cotton (April 2017) General Customs Quantity and Y-o-Y % Change
US Apparel Imports General Customs Value and Y-o-Y % Change 8.00
10%
7.00
3%
5%
6.00 0%
5.00 -5%
4.00 -10%
3.00 2.00 Feb-17
Mar-17
Values (in US billion$)
2%
810.00
1%
710.00
0%
610.00
-1%
510.00
-2%
410.00
-3%
310.00
-4%
210.00
-5%
110.00
-6% -7%
10.00
-15%
Jan-17
910.00
Yarns
Fabrics
Made-ups
Apparels
Apr-17
Y-o-Y % Change
Quantity (in millionSME)
Y-o-Y % Change
Item-wise quantity increase/decrease in apparel imports by the US: Jan.-Apr. 2017 (Qty in doz, legwear in dpr, babieswear in kg) Exportsto USA Total Imports byUSA APPAREL TYPE
China
India
2016
2017
%Change
2016
2017
Babieswear
30,754,104
32,281,943
4.97
13,327,022
Foundation Garments
19,470,093
20,704,564
6.34
11,004,764
Jackets &Blazers
Bangladesh
Vietnam
%Change
2016
2017
%Change
2016
2017
%Change
2016
2017
14,333,841
7.55
2,942,736
2,464,596
-16.25
3,436,546
10,826,150
-1.62
593,514
529,625
-10.76
1,255,945
%Change
3,223,625
-6.20
2,378,691
2,947,766
23.92
1,823,128
45.16
653,315
1,551,584
137.49
7,489,300
7,958,701
6.27
3,329,388
3,708,866
11.40
134,504
184,357
37.06
412,806
495,020
19.92
1,319,238
1,432,725
8.60
Ladies Blouses
20,892,897
20,659,360
-1.12
8,463,542
8,188,557
-3.25
3,271,132
3,049,850
-6.76
1,144,100
1,070,653
-6.42
2,798,629
3,153,937
12.70
Ladies Dresses
23,203,047
24,068,134
3.73
10,304,544
10,869,242
5.48
2,042,376
2,139,216
4.74
819,399
725,097
-11.51
4,186,264
4,600,786
9.90
6,466,292
5,350,868
-17.25
2,381,970
2,064,117
-13.34
365,745
287,795
-21.31
467,310
367,177
-21.43
1,236,507
1,110,995
-10.15
Legwear
97,383,095
97,467,768
0.09
56,981,267
61,674,148
8.24
851,574
954,286
12.06
61,622
12,540
-79.65
834,229
820,887
-1.60
Men's Shirts
13,674,866
13,564,810
-0.80
2,739,446
2,718,690
-0.76
1,020,673
1,295,671
26.94
3,923,584
3,524,310
-10.18
1,603,911
1,624,397
1.28
Nightwear
12,918,931
13,256,966
2.62
7,420,447
7,364,591
-0.75
1,006,181
1,008,460
0.23
467,464
667,024
42.69
1,264,146
1,290,494
2.08
4,492,526
4,120,464
-8.28
2,078,640
2,014,940
-3.06
266,491
244,026
-8.43
121,174
47,905
-60.47
853,895
794,083
-7.00
Ladies Skirts
Suits /Ensembles Sweaters
2,108,386
1,766,026
-16.24
1,596,867
1,196,820
-25.05
11,063
11,361
2.69
151,350
131,060
-13.41
64,591
62,382
-3.42
Trousers
99,471,032
102,168,240
2.71
26,732,886
27,953,278
4.57
2,261,146
2,063,530
-8.74
17,123,241
17,396,931
1.60
15,253,587
18,414,915
20.73
T-Shirts
184,574,266
182,562,144
-1.09
29,399,584
29,211,227
-0.64
8,684,393
8,991,188
3.53
7,271,605
6,962,453
-4.25
26,093,041
26,474,576
1.46
80,488,320
80,672,158
0.23
14,819,273
15,512,327
4.68
6,219,479
5,868,695
-5.64
8,584,619
8,827,724
2.83
12,515,964
14,065,354
12.38
Undergarments
Item-wise value increase/decrease in apparel imports by the US: Jan.-Apr. 2017 (Value in US mn $) Exports to USA Total Imports byUSA APPAREL TYPE
China
India
2016
2017
%Change
2016
2017
Babieswear
671.00
695.15
3.60
276.42
Foundation Garments
875.51
914.02
4.40
423.63
Bangladesh
%Change
2016
2017
290.12
4.95
64.32
379.68
-10.37
42.55
Vietnam
%Change
2016
2017
%Change
2016
2017
%Change
59.81
-7.01
60.83
73.21
20.35
60.66
73.47
21.12
35.83
-15.80
26.56
43.09
62.23
31.59
100.27
217.42
Jackets &Blazers
1,147.33
1,155.58
0.72
432.09
459.31
6.30
20.37
23.77
16.69
58.48
62.91
7.57
229.15
232.65
1.53
Ladies Blouses
1,385.29
1,348.84
-2.63
520.98
482.96
-7.30
245.06
233.54
-4.70
64.89
59.28
-8.65
154.31
170.03
10.18
Ladies Dresses
1,940.64
1,913.15
-1.42
861.00
813.48
-5.52
181.83
189.92
4.45
30.05
26.76
-10.97
298.38
303.16
1.60
397.57
320.38
-19.41
134.23
109.69
-18.29
29.48
21.96
-25.54
20.67
15.87
-23.25
74.55
59.90
-19.65 -3.97
Ladies Skirts Legwear
541.01
540.64
-0.07
293.79
304.46
3.63
4.96
5.58
12.35
0.67
-
-100.00
4.71
4.52
1,141.97
1,070.74
-6.24
251.87
229.15
-9.02
80.19
86.56
7.95
226.22
193.04
-14.67
129.53
128.93
-0.46
Nightwear
549.59
526.72
-4.16
309.42
286.11
-7.53
32.75
34.96
6.76
13.91
16.49
18.55
57.79
53.04
-8.23
Suits /Ensembles
440.80
397.16
-9.90
106.03
94.81
-10.58
25.16
27.97
11.18
6.43
4.08
-36.55
63.08
53.60
-15.03
Sweaters
215.54
182.76
-15.21
153.38
119.79
-21.90
0.86
0.80
-7.56
8.50
6.26
-26.43
1.83
4.39
140.14
Trousers
6,146.76
5,998.83
-2.41
1,501.10
1,448.05
-3.53
161.94
135.70
-16.20
941.03
894.51
-4.94
899.58
998.76
11.02
T-Shirts
6,345.71
6,280.05
-1.03
1231.862
1163.793
-5.53
347.991
349.419
0.41
184.00
170.35
-7.42
986.82
1028.20
4.19
Undergarments
1,162.55
1,123.34
-3.37
228.73
244.93
7.08
103.80
96.77
-6.78
96.79
93.40
-3.51
159.13
166.69
4.75
Men's Shirts
EU’s apparel import upswings in March; Q1 somehow recovers J a n u a r y to M a r c h 2 0 1 7 European Union’s clothing imports have recovered in March over February, with their long-term trend eventually unchanged. Whereas, imports from Bangladesh have surged, but the growth percentage was much weaker than usual in the first quarter. According to Statista, an online statistics, market research and business intelligence portal, EU might see a significant decline in menswear by the year 2020 which might affect the major apparel exporters to EU in this category.
‘Facts and Forecast’ for EU Apparel Industry
Global apparel imports by the European Union during January to March 2017
USD 147 bn revenue forecast from women’s apparel in 2017
Total Decrease in Quantity
1.74% Total Increase in Value
0.33% Percentage Increase in UVR
2.06%
USD 27.28 average price/pc for women’s apparel in EU
816 mn
1%
estimated men shirts consumption in 2017
CAGR growth by 2025 in EU apparel market
USD 34 average revenue/person from hosiery apparels in 2017
Trouser most imported product by EU in2016
Apparel imports of the EU: Selected Countries (Qty in mnKg &Value in mn Euro) Jan.-Mar.2016
Jan.-Mar.2017
% increase /decrease
Country/Category Qty
Average UVR in Jan.-Mar. 2017 was Euro 18.79 per kg of fabric equivalent
Value
Qty
Value
Qty
Value
WORLD Knitted
618.10
9867.60
612.97
10055.83
-0.83
1.91
Woven
522.44
11126.33
507.73
11006.78
-2.82
-1.07
1140.54
20993.93
1120.70
21062.61
-1.74
0.33
Knitted
196.90
3010.46
191.34
2941.17
-2.83
-2.30
Woven
203.60
3911.17
189.35
3710.22
-7.00
-5.14
Total
400.50
6921.63
380.69
6651.39
-4.95
-3.90
Knitted
41.78
719.46
44.50
753.08
6.51
4.67
Woven
30.32
815.32
28.63
762.10
-5.57
-6.53
Total
72.10
1534.78
73.13
1515.18
1.43
-1.28
Knitted
172.31
2152.64
173.88
2291.52
0.91
6.45
Woven
108.91
1804.14
110.46
1872.59
1.42
3.79
Total
281.22
3956.79
284.34
4164.12
1.11
5.24
Knitted
16.68
230.90
10.44
226.25
-37.39
-2.02
Woven
6.96
165.23
6.33
164.01
-8.94
-0.74
23.64
396.13
16.78
390.26
-29.02
-1.48
Knitted
24.22
261.65
26.03
300.26
7.48
14.76
Woven
26.32
382.79
27.85
418.83
5.79
9.42
Total
50.54
644.44
53.88
719.09
6.60
11.58
Knitted
9.49
208.89
11.64
239.85
22.68
14.82
Woven
22.93
539.89
21.01
544.27
-8.36
0.81
Total
32.42
748.79
32.65
784.12
0.72
4.72
Total CHINA
Change in Knitted Quantity
0.83%
Value
1.91%
Change in Woven
INDIA
BANGLADESH
SRILANKA
Total
Quantity
2.82%
Value
1.07%
[The information has been extracted from EU custom site and further analyzed.]
PAKISTAN
VIETNAM
EU Apparel Imports (Month-wise Comparison)
UVR Trend from Top Asian Apparel Exporters to EU (January to March 2017)
General Customs Value and Y-o-Y Percentage Change
(UVR in Euro per kg of Fabric Equivalent)
8.00
6%
30.00
5%
4%
4%
7.00
25.00 2%
6.00
3%
0%
20.00
2%
-2%
1%
5.00
15.00 -4%
4.00
0%
-6%
10.00
-1%
-8%
-2%
3.00
5.00 -10%
-3%
-12%
2.00
Jan-17
Feb-17 Values (in Euro million)
0.00
-4% India
Bangladesh
China
Vietnam
UVR16
21.19
14.07
17.28
23.10
UVR17
20.72
14.65
17.47
24.01
%Change
-2.68%
4.12%
1.10%
3.94%
Mar-17 Y-o-Y %Change
Item-wise quantity increase/decrease in apparel imports by EU: Jan.-Mar. 2017 (Qty in mn kg) Exports to EU Total Imports byEU APPAREL TYPE
Babieswear Foundation Garments Jackets &Blazers Ladies Blouses Ladies Dresses Ladies Skirts Legwear Men's Shirts Nightwear Suits /Ensembles Sweaters Trousers T-Shirts Undergarments
China
India
Bangladesh
Vietnam
2016
2017
%tage
2016
2017
%tage
2016
2017
%tage
2016
2017
%tage
2016
2017
%tage
30.51 14.25
30.35 13.63
-0.52 -4.40
10.61 8.89
9.90 7.86
-6.68 -11.59
5.08 0.08
5.42 0.08
6.67 10.00
8.21 1.53
8.58 1.67
4.49 8.70
0.19 0.38
0.19 0.52
4.74 36.67
33.97 32.56 47.26 13.30 48.90 78.68 31.30 10.87 98.87 302.46 166.32 35.01
30.46 31.99 46.20 11.64 46.50 76.35 31.06 10.84 104.75 295.06 165.05 31.32
-10.34 -1.76 -2.24 -12.48 -4.92 -2.96 -0.75 -0.29 5.95 -2.45 -0.76 -10.53
16.79 9.33 18.37 5.12 24.31 13.84 10.26 6.36 35.75 81.13 21.59 17.30
14.39 10.51 17.31 4.57 23.52 12.33 9.78 6.07 36.26 72.92 20.45 15.31
-14.31 12.69 -5.78 -10.62 -3.27 -10.91 -4.75 -4.56 1.43 -10.11 -5.26 -11.53
0.80 6.91 6.75 1.06 0.49 7.24 6.42 0.48 2.76 11.37 13.80 2.28
0.68 6.47 6.43 0.86 0.54 7.24 7.10 0.52 3.12 11.74 14.86 2.01
-14.09 -6.43 -4.68 -18.82 9.66 0.03 10.67 10.27 13.10 3.27 7.70 -12.02
3.30 4.37 5.21 2.10 0.43 32.50 5.95 0.68 26.62 91.77 79.16 6.16
2.83 4.29 5.92 1.87 0.46 31.09 4.94 0.91 28.55 93.76 79.21 5.01
-14.25 -1.83 13.54 -10.61 5.58 -4.34 -16.98 32.84 7.22 2.17 0.06 -18.72
3.04 1.43 1.30 0.34 0.08 2.92 0.58 0.15 1.52 10.01 1.92 0.49
2.57 1.18 1.12 0.38 0.37 3.09 0.63 0.14 1.48 9.13 2.34 0.62
-15.46 -17.65 -13.84 12.75 378.80 5.79 9.09 -9.92 -2.83 -8.79 21.93 27.01
Item-wise value increase/decrease in apparel imports by EU: Jan.-Mar. 2017 (Value in mn Euro) Exports to EU Total Imports byEU APPAREL TYPE
Babieswear Foundation Garments Jackets &Blazers Ladies Blouses Ladies Dresses Ladies Skirts Legwear Men's Shirts Nightwear Suits /Ensembles Sweaters Trousers T-Shirts Undergarments
China
India
Bangladesh
Vietnam
2016
2017
%tage
2016
2017
%tage
2016
2017
%tage
2016
2017
%tage
2016
2017
626.56
667.44
6.52
227.53
225.89
-0.72
110.88
122.95
10.88
145.94
165.55
13.44
5.56
6.07
%tage 9.28
507.07
522.31
3.00
259.36
243.35
-6.17
4.53
5.28
16.48
49.17
59.37
20.75
21.01
27.71
31.91
839.65 971.75 1268.08 291.22 473.65 1621.22 370.78 208.69 1919.52 5040.03 2593.62 589.50
754.33 964.92 1254.79 270.98 499.30 1579.96 378.19 194.63 2013.09 4978.34 2601.59 579.25
-10.16 -0.70 -1.05 -6.95 5.42 -2.54 2.00 -6.74 4.87 -1.22 0.31 -1.74
368.99 271.07 502.29 98.79 171.77 288.49 101.18 82.33 778.29 1067.25 385.66 243.92
310.32 275.38 493.37 98.86 185.70 262.55 103.35 76.75 776.12 964.87 360.71 230.19
-15.90 1.59 -1.78 0.08 8.11 -8.99 2.15 -6.77 -0.28 -9.59 -6.47 -5.63
19.97 219.97 189.47 26.72 6.54 167.71 81.69 9.80 53.05 200.94 244.21 37.99
17.94 209.72 176.10 23.42 6.11 168.23 87.94 11.21 59.67 198.36 254.78 35.36
-10.14 -4.66 -7.06 -12.32 -6.62 0.31 7.65 14.46 12.47 -1.28 4.33 -6.92
55.42 97.68 80.36 32.13 4.77 503.18 66.82 9.53 400.75 1311.72 879.48 98.71
49.59 101.96 93.63 29.97 5.63 491.23 60.23 11.83 435.05 1366.93 932.88 96.56
-10.51 4.39 16.52 -6.75 17.93 -2.38 -9.86 24.08 8.56 4.21 6.07 -2.18
67.08 28.84 29.44 7.71 1.31 76.65 6.33 2.77 29.81 193.85 41.28 13.16
60.40 27.64 25.13 8.14 2.74 80.27 4.70 2.86 31.81 190.92 40.67 18.76
-9.96 -4.16 -14.64 5.60 109.24 4.72 -25.75 3.37 6.69 -1.51 -1.47 42.57
EXPORT STATISTICS
Canada Apparel Imports January-Apri l 2017
Canada revamps slightly in April amidst fluctuating market Canada is still falling in value terms of its apparel imports as this downfall is clearly announcing the declining unit prices of apparels. Domestic market is creating new demand for athleisure and knitwear, but other product categories are significantly going down with less consumer spending. However, apart from FTA with North and South American countries, Canada is targeting to set trade relationships with UK also after its exit from EU which might boost its falling economy.
Canada Imports in Value
B’Desh Exports in Value
5.50%
0.33% While the knitted segment saw marginal boost of 0.89%, the woven segment registered negative growth of (-) 1.50% in value terms.
Bangladesh continued its slowdown in apparel exports to Canada as during the review period, knitted garment exports fell by (-) 3.73%, whereas woven segment decreased by (-) 6.67%.
Japan Apparel Imports January
to M a r c h 2 0 1 7
Apparel imports by Japan recovers in Q1 Amidst hindering global growth due to demographic and economic trends, domestic market in Japan keeps the imports alive while tourist spending disappoints the country. During the first quarter, Japan recovered in its clothing imports with the emergence of e-commerce. Still, many successful retailers are not offering online shopping and are notably avoiding this channel due to profitability concerns. Instead they are seeking to keep prices low in store. This scenario might boost consumer spending in apparel, resulting in more imports by Japan in the year ahead.
Bangladesh Exports in Value
Vietnam Exports in Value
4.96%
7.83%
The country witnessed downfall in value-wise apparel exports to Japan by (-) 4.96%, while it fell down in volume by (-) 1.84% during the review period.
On Y-o-Y basis, the country got boost both in values (7.83%) and volumes (9.19%) of its apparel exports to Japan.
FASHION BUSINESS
STRUCTURED SHIRTS REPLACE FLASHY LUXURY Menswear Value Addition for Spring / Summer 2018 The menswear fashion season started from artistic London and moved on to Italy’s culture capital Florence, where we cannot stop devouring the impeccable dressmaking of Italian designers at PittiUomo92, made all the more universal with guest designers like Jonathan Anderson and Virgil Abloh in attendance. Therefore, while not all is over for the men’s fashion circus, we have enough shows and presentations to commence the trend investigation of Spring/Summer 2018 collections. London Fashion Week started on the day results of the UK Elections were announced and designers took to heartfelt anarchy and signature rebellion correspondingly. So either we can call it sheer co-incidence or proof that fashion in fact is the biggest giveaway of the world around us.
ife with references to sub-cultures and dipped in rejections to standardized rules, creatives took inspirations from warscarred photographs, stories of adventure and survival to the club scene of 1980s – to produce a rather wearable season of menswear basics. A stride in genderbending direction, the boys are borrowing from the girls for a change. How else do we explain all the diluted tints of candy floss and hues of fruit-laden macarons seen through plenty of collections?
R
The silhouette of Summer 2018 has definitely bid its goodbyes to anything ultra-skinny in favour of wide-flowing trousers with tapered and boxy reverecollared shirts. The importance of wellshaped sleeves and an overall sculptured figure is becoming increasingly apparent in the newly emerging avatar of men’s shirts. The humble shirt is a primal building block of any outfit and although it may appear very basic, this summer’s shirt is slick with inventive details and masters the mixing of workwear bases with add on elements like novelty collars, large patch pockets, deconstructed cut-outs and just light, breezy fabrics.
As monotone looks take the runway by a storm and men in rompers become a more common sight than ever, crisp shirts are here to keep the semblance of our sanity in place. For this reason, here is an accumulation of what is trending in men’s shirting options from Spring/Summer 2018 collections!
1 DRENCHED CANVAS Fashion without prints is like a cake without sugar and this season’s shirts are being dipped in artfully printed funky pop-culture motifs like peanuts or plain old florals on washed out bases. The artistic delight does not end here of course. From Pinterest-inspired paint drippings, peculiar watercolour intonations to splashes of ink, art is unquestionably taking over our upper body coverings this summer. From Alex Mullins’ chaotic sunflowers that looked drained of all colour to the paint bucket of blues and oranges that seemed to have fallen over the Songzio boys, art prints are clearly looking up this season.
1
AlexMullins
2
2 BANDWIDTH BOYS Nautica always makes its way into summer collections, one way or another. This year that way is the vacation dreaming, lounge-worthy blue stripe, instantly making you wish for summer in the South of France. From multi- sized bandwidth to clean and classical pinstripe – stripes, and especially the vertical stripes, are dishing up unsoiled, effortless sophistication on the runways. Vertical stripes that stood out in London included E Tautz’s louche cream and navy pinstripe safari jacket, and the broken up streaks on Qasimi’s navy and claret summer blouson.
3 GAME OF SLACK In some ways, an oversized shirt absolutely defies the conventions of traditional business formals. However, with the right kind of clean cut tailoring and gravity defying structured fabrics, this relaxed version of the shirt is a major silhouette shift of the season. Designers are creating this outline of
E.Tautz
3
EdwardCrutchley
4
MartineRose
a top in shades of clinical whites and washed out blues for a safe yet maximum impact outfit. From Edward Crutchley’s peanut painted calf grazing shirts and drop shoulder jackets to the tucked in big white shirts at Virgil Abloh’s Off-White presentation, big yet firmly structured is silhouette of the season.
4 SLEEVE-SPIRATION Another feature that has taken over women’s apparel – big sleeves, are now making their way to menswear as one of the most defining trends. Call it gender-fluidity, but the sleeves are anything but limp this season. Designers are employing art-inspired kimono or paper-like fabrics to make oversized architectural sleeves. For men’s collections in Spring 2018, to sell a basic shirt is out of question. From Martine Rose, Craig Green to Chalayan’s utility doctor runway, there is a bizarre 3/4th sleeve length in town and it looks mighty comfortable and business-like.
5
Gosha Rubchinsky
6
KTZ
5 POWER POCKETS Unlike women’s clothing, men have always been on the better end of the bargain when it comes to utilitarian pockets. However, this season’s pockets, as serviceable as ever, are more than just a tiny bag to hold your things. They are getting bigger and seemingly invisible at the same time. Designers are creating end-to-end sizes to deceive pockets into appearing like the shirt front itself. While Astrid Anderson put up 3D pockets on his boys, we are looking at Gosha Rubchinskiy’s big flap pockets and KTZ’s held together with safety pinned pockets to ascertain that pockets are definitely a key detail this year.
6 BRING IN THE BOXES Competing fiercely with each other are this season’s favourite checks – both the Shadow and Gingham crisscrosses bringing their A game to men’s shirting this summer. This trend is one part David Bowie in Young America and the other part 1980s work wardrobes all-over. Being
7
Band ofOutsiders
the epitome of classicism, both of these patterns as well as a few others walking together, make checks the bountiful highrider of this season. Just one look at Oliver Spencer nailing the game of boxy checks in utmost style would be enough but we are not discarding KTZ and Christopher Shannon as the checkered trendsetters either.
7 RELAXED OVER-SHIRTS While we may sometimes forget about this, the over-shirt originates from military uniforms, so it comes as little surprise that yet another military silhouette is making its entry into mainstream fashion. A garment which is so functional for a season that is huge on layering, will definitely be the key style to watch out for. Made with light fabrics and neutral colours, over-shirts are the favourite cover-up of Spring 2018. The creative vision of Band of Outsiders isn’t wasted upon us as they show travelready over-shirts in nautical stripes one after another, and neither can we ignore JW Anderson’s heart-printed coverings!
DIRECTIONSBY
KEY SILHOUETTES AND DETAILS
FALL/WINTER 2017-18
As we conclude Fall/Winter 2017 trends, we turn our attention onto silhouettes and details that have proven to be paramount this season as per the international runways. F/W 2017-18 offered us a generous glimpse into the future of the fashion industry, at the same time drawing our consideration back over our details from the bygone days of bold and poised fashion theatrics. The See-Now-Buy-Now strategy sat balanced alongside wondrous adaptations of the imaginative creative. The former aims at reducing the gap in the market by launching collections up for sale as soon as they stroll off the runway whilst the latter involves artful appreciation and guided consideration for purchase – this season had it all. The shoulders get bigger and the jackets get shorter – exaggeration is the name of the game as puffed up sleeves and padded jackets make a comeback. Cropped jackets – bomber, varsity or puffer – take yourpick. Accentuated midriffs that are tied, knotted, cinched or belted make a case for robe-like silhouettes through wrap jackets, blazers and dresses. Flares mellow down a bit, and menswear-inspired garments take centre stage, channelling in the bold, independent ‘boss-babe’ vibe. In a nutshell, Fall/Winter 2017-18 is entirely about expertly executed collections that emphasize skilled craftsmanship bringing about historical references as inspiration for trends to come.
PUFF-PUFF PARADE
EXAGGERATED SHOULDERS
W
ith the current heat surrounding woman empowerment across the globe – a topic that has caused societal hearsay – it was no surprise when designers collectively decided to inject autonomous messages, into their collections minus the need to exhibit any sort of logos or slogans.
comfort and utility based clothing has ignited a resurgence of the warm and cozy puffer/ padded jackets, been labelled ‘out-of-fashion’ in the past few seasons.
A powerful theme was brought about by the use of structured shoulders that promoted dominance. Masculine tailored silhouettes assimilated across cross-cultural designs, flaunted bold, exaggerated and pointy shoulders that broughtforth an ’80s revival ofsorts.
Saint Laurent
Annakiki
Mugler
Rihanna
Salvatore Ferragamo
Fyodor Golan
Genny
Coach
While the outerwear staple might have retained its spot in the fashion industry limited to ski slopes, Fall/Winter 2017-18 has another fate destined for it. The new and revised puffer jacket flaunts prints and loud pops of colour, cropped or cinched at the waist, and breaks stereotypes by sitting just as calmly over slip dresses as it does over jeans. Quilted stitching details in linear and lozenge-shaped patterns gave a stylish spur to iterations of bomber jackets, long coats and oversized versions.
EXPOSED ZIPPER
CINCH-SPICIOUS
A
s attention narrows down to the waistline, belts serve as an unmissable detail that emphasize the coveted hour-glass silhouette. Be it basic – big, wide and looped, or conspicuous as laced-up, corseted or belted, belts served as the accessory to-go for all kinds of collections.
designers to keep the zippers and closures exposed and multiple. Seen as profligate slashes over jackets, flys, and turtlenecks or diagonally placed all the way through, over dresses and skirts, the zips seem to be the new hardware-in-town.
Chunky, decorative buckles with or without a dominant brooch were seen aplenty, securing dresses, gowns, jackets and coats, trousers and skirts. Oversized versions layered as easily over skin hugging pieces as they did over boxy shapes translating the cinch as a major trend for the coming season.
Isabel Marant
Giambattista Valli
Moncler Grenoble
Topshop Unique
Sies Marjan
Tome
Peter Pilotto
Antonio Berardi
Although the rose-gold trend continues to enjoy a market of its own, silver tinted zippers topped with a circular ring closure, are hands-down the best-seller in this category as it makes its way into the much hyped fastfashion pieces.
BORROWED FROM THE BOYS
FEATHERY DELIGHTS
F
rom actual marabou and ostrich feathers to the less palpable beaded fringes – swayinducing styles are sashaying between street chicand opulent exaggeration teamed with graceful fluidity. Inspired from a general fancy with flight and movement, designers are channelling the 1920’s feathering effect by making use of everything from tassels to shredded fabrics and unkempt yarns and injecting them into their collections. Feather-embellished hemlines edging skirts and dresses, adorning sleeves or posing as little plumes embroidered all-over dresses served as concoctions applied over cotton, leather and linen at the Fall/Winter runways.
Marchesa
Stella Mccartney
Prada
J W Anderson
David Koma
Thom Browne
Jilsander
Ranging from menswearstaples such as tailored blazers and jackets that featured tartan and striped prints to the inclusion of fabrics such as wool, tweed and classic suiting material in more conventional styles, the trend imparted a fresh spin on womenswear classics. There was a significant majority of feminine silhouettes that projected power suiting for the approaching season.
Calvin Klein
trend of the season is the use of masculine influences to accentuate certain aspects of femininity. Despite a rebellious fashion week, menswear-inspired silhouettes and prints served as a key inspiration for an umpteen number of designers.
ORNAMENTAL APPLIQUE PATCHWORK
FRINGE EFFECT
A
long with the ’80s, the ’70s also managed to find their way into this year’s collections in the form of fringes, which continue to re-invent themselves season after season.Tiered and layered over dresses, serving as trims on the hemlines of coats, jackets and skirts or serving as details over sleeves and accessories such as bags – the fringe might as well be one of the main details apart from ruffles and frills to make a strong case for Fall/Winter 2017-18.
and sheer dresses infused with laser cut appliqué motifs introduced a fanciful vibe to 2D renderings. Designers and highfashion brands alike, stirred up whimsical vibes by featuring the richness of the embroideries and patches over fine materials such as velour, fur, leather and even suede.
In some cases, the fringe took on a more delicate and feminine twist appearing all-over dresses and adding a roaring Twenties spin to them.
Prada
Versace
Gucci
XU ZHI
Balmain
Simone Rocha
Angel Chen-
Antonio Marras
Everyday fabrics such as denims and knit sweaters were adorned with embellished versions of motifs that sat well with both feminine and masculine silhouettes.