MÅNGATA Sustainable Design Magazine by Adriel Echeverria

HOW BAMBOO WILL CHANGE THE WORLD Pg 18 An inside look at the benefits of the sustainable plant.

PATAGONIA'S REVISED MISSION: DO GOOD Pg 60 Founder Yvon Chouinard's commitment to sustainability.

THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX Pg 122 CPH's mission to build container home village

MÅNGATA /’mo·AHŅ·ga·ta/ noun The glimmering, roadlike reflection of the moon in the water.

MÅNGATA is a magazine that is dedicated to all things sustainable. We are tirelessly working towards a smarter and more sustainable world by encouraging and empowering all to live a sustainable lifes. We here at MÅNGATA think the idea of living a sustainable lifestyle makes consumers feel like they are going to have to change everything about their current lifestyle, but we want to convey the fact that in reality it doesn’t mean that. We want to meet our readers exactly where they are, and help them learn and genuinely care about sustainability.

CONTENTS

LIFESTYLE 10

Four Years Trash, One Jar, Zero Waste

Working Bike Co-Op Welcomes All Bikes, Even The Really Screwed Up Ones

How Bamboo Will Change The World

SDG: Sustainable Developement Goals

FASHION 36

Ekn Footwear X Mr. Bailey Kudzo Slip-on

PUBLISHER Cynthia Kerby CONTRIBUTORS

Small Business Success Story: Raven + Lily Changes Lives With Able Lending

Lara Miller

Why Do We Need A Fashion Revolution?

Lupe Diaz Frank Rios

PRODUCTS

Veleny Jones Cassie Craven Amanda Straka

Patagonia’s Revised Mission: Do Good

Lakesha Howard

Lush Cosmetics thrives with

Adriel Echeverria Benjamin Kalajainen SPECIAL THANKS TO

Transparency and Sustainability 77

Let’s Have A Toast To Sustainability

Be Smart About Cooling & Heating

New Belgium Brewing Co. BambuRain CPH Containers

TECHNOLOGY

The Hanover Company Cotton Minimal Natural Happening

Color Rush: Waterless Dye Technology

The Ultimate Chicago Bike Revealed:

Working Bikes Tåpped Trees Brandon Sharpe

Meet The Blackline 102

Tesla’s Solar Panel Roof: Solar Glass Tiles Are The New Solar Shingles

Maggie O'hara 106

Google Green

ART & DESIGN

CHICAGO, IL 60654 All rights reserved. No part of this magazine shall be reproduced in any manner without permission. All images that are © by the artist are reproduced with the permission of the artist and/or their representatives. MANGATAMAGAZINE.COM

112

Tubakuba:Free Night In A Designer Cabin Anyone?

118

Luxurious Sustainable Living

122

Thinking Outside The Box

130

Natural Impressions: A Typographic Experiment

132

Tapped Birch Water By Horse

TEAM ADRIEL ECHEVERRIA CREATIVE DIRECTOR // PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR

Adriel Echeverria is a Graphic Designer in the making. Born in Durango, Mexico, Adriel is a social urbanite currently living in Chicago’s Southside. Despite hating the move to Chicago when he was just a little 4 year old, he now realizes that it was the best thing that could have ever happened to him. Adriel’s ambitions are to make it in this world as a successful Graphic Designer, travel nationally and internationally while doing what he loves, and never losing touch with where he comes from.

CASSIE CRAVEN ART DIRECTOR // ESTIMATOR

Cassie Craven’s chief ambition is to one-day control the entire Internet, but in the meantime, she busies herself with marketing through the interwebs by strategically planning campaigns and producing content. Originally from Atlanta, Cassie relocated to Chicago in 2013 because she thought it would be much nicer to have people breathing on her on the “L” instead of sitting in traffic. While in Chicago, Cassie decided to pursue her Bachelor’s Degree in Graphic Design in hopes of becoming a well-rounded marketing powerhouse.

BEN KALAJAINEN COPY EDITOR // TRAFFIC

Ben Kalajainen grew up in Grand Rapids, Michigan, and has his creative roots in contemporary vocal performance and the performing arts. As well as performance, he has also discovered his love for advertising and marketing, largely due to the fact that it demands unbridled creativity and the ability to perform as equally strong in the logistics and business strategy. Relentlessly seeking insight and discovering inspiration from life itself, Ben fuses his passion as a Copy Craftsman, and his skills as a Creative Marketing Strategist.

LUPE DIAZ ART DIRECTOR // ILLUSTRATION EDITOR

Lupe Diaz has an intense focus and is driven to be the first woman in her family to earn a college degree. Lupe is the only daughter in her family of five, and comes from an old school Mexican culture. Her aspirations push and motivate her to excel and realize both personal and professional goals. As a Graphic Designer, Lupe has a passion for branding, packaging design, analyzing typefaces, and conducting thorough research as it relates to her clients. Lupe enjoys developing illustrations to help assist her projects and client work.

FRANK RIOS ART DIRECTOR // PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR

Frank Rios is a Chicago native and Graphic Designer. Frank enjoys running, dancing, rocking out to some music, and attending as many concerts as he can. Frank chooses to surround himself with people who not only motivate him, but also inspire him. He tirelessly strives to make himself a better person, and is motivated to achieve greatness. Frank’s biggest role model is his mother, who raised three children on her own, and somehow found the time to go back to school and earn an Associates Degree in Health Information Management.

We Home, do you yours?

LIFESTYLE Despite what you might think, living a sustainable lifestyle isn’t as hard as it once was. We believe in living life with purpose and a lifestyle that attempts to reduce an individual’s or society’s use of the Earth’s natural resources and personal resources is a priority and a duty. From attempting to reduce your carbon footprint by altering methods of transportation, energy consumption, and diet are the best steps to stride towards a truly sustainable lifestyle.

LIFESTYLE

FOUR YEARS OF TRASH, ONE JAR– ZERO WASTE

BY // SUSIE EAST FROM CNN

Meet Lauren Singer, a regular New Yorker with one key difference - a zero waste lifestyle ... and she’s got a jar to prove it. “Within the past four years all the trash that I’ve produced can fit within a 16 oz mason jar,” says Singer, whose blog Trash is for Tossers shines a light on how to live sustainability. She says compared to the average American, who produces on average around 4.5 lbs (two kilos) of trash per day, she’s saved over 6,000 lbs. (2,720 kilos) of it from going to landfill sites.

11 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

Photo Credit // Blog Talk Website

“I do compost and recycle but only as a last resort – I try to avoid packaging at all costs,” says the 25-year-old.

Photo Credit // CNN

LIFESTYLE

Saying goodbye to plastic.

Check your trash!

It all started when she was studying Environmental Science at New York

One of the ways Singer hopes to solve the landfill problem is to inspire people

University, when she discovered her passion for sustainability was limited to

to cut down on their waste. She says the easiest way to begin a sustainable

the classroom. “One day I went home after class and opened my fridge to make

lifestyle is just to start. Whether it’s drinking from a reusable bottle or visiting

dinner, and I realized that every single thing that I had in there was packaged

the farmers’ market, you have to make a first move, no matter how small.

in plastic.” It was a light bulb moment for Singer, who quickly decided to make some changes -- first by going plastic free, and then by committing to a zero

Second, go through your trash and see what you’re throwing away. If there’s lots

waste lifestyle

of food waste consider doing small, regular shops to avoid food going moldy.

With plastic bags, bottles and cutlery becoming part of everyday life, it may feel

Third, change the products you use. Try brushing your teeth with a bamboo

like drastic changes have to be made in order to “go green,” but Singer believes

toothbrush, washing with hard soap rather than bottled products, and cleaning

anyone can do it.“I am incredibly lazy -- I would never live a zero waste lifestyle

your house using vinegar instead of commercial chemicals. You may even find

if it meant spending extra time doing things to live this lifestyle. Contrary to

these options work out cheaper.

what people think or might assume it’s actually very easy.” It won’t break the bank. It’s about making small changes. For example, if you order a drink at a bar, just

Not only has Singer saved lots of money, she’s also eating a lot healthier, and has

ask the bartender to not put a straw in your drink, Singer suggests. When you go

come to love her minimalist lifestyle, which she says is not just for the privileged

shopping, take a cloth bag with you. And if you can’t find toothpaste that doesn’t

few. She says she’s saved a lot of money by avoiding supermarkets where part of

come in a plastic tube, make your own. “Everyone thinks it’s really hard to make

the price goes towards packaging. To avoid plastic packaging Singer even makes

your own toothpaste but I think it’s hard to go and buy my own,” says Singer.

her own toothpaste using just three ingredients -- coconut oil, baking soda, and peppermint oil. Around 1.3 billion tons of edible food is lost or wasted every year,

“I would have to get dressed, walk to the store, buy toothpaste, walk back - and

according to the FAO.

I’ve spent $8 and wasted 30 minutes of my day. Whereas if I make my own toothpaste, it’s three ingredients, I can do it naked in my kitchen and it takes me

“I’ve changed my lifestyle and prevented thousands of pounds of trash going

30 seconds and doesn’t cost more than 50 cents.”

to landfill,” says Singer. “I believe that one person can make a difference, it’s just having a desire to do so.”

So ... what’s in the jar? From ditching packaging to making her own products, Singer has become an expert in living waste free. But she still accumulates the odd bit of plastic -even if it’s only enough to fit in a 16 oz jar. Little stickers on fruit and veg can’t be recycled, and although Singer only buys clothes in secondhand stores, the bits of plastic connecting the price tags also go straight in the jar.“It’s plastic that no one will recycle ... I like to collect my trash

13 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

just because it helps me see what problems are difficult to avoid.”

GO AHEAD, RUB IT IN!

#GONAKED

WWW.LUSHUSA.COM

WORKING BIKES CO-OP WELCOMES ALL BIKES, EVEN THE REALLY SCREWED-UP ONES BY // KEVIN WARWICK

LIFESTYLE Photo Credit // Working Bike Co-Op

f you head a few blocks in any direction out your front door,

“Next week, we have Heartland Alliance coming in and bringing

there’s a good chance you’ll come upon at least one corroding

15 refugees,” Gonzalez says. “They have people who they relocate

and neglected bike—complete with bent rims, rusted chain, and

from Burma, Cuba, or Iraq that have no papers, no driver’s license,

slashed seat—not worth the trouble of rescuing. That weathered-

and no real ties to the Chicago community. We give them a bicycle,

to-shit 35-year-old Schwinn Varsity that’s probably been puked

a new helmet, and a lock so they can get from point A to point B.”

on during its lengthy stay outside your local dive bar earned its place in the city’s waste stream of bikes long ago, is just waiting

Gonzalez, 29, has been at Working Bikes six years, two as a

its turn to get chucked into a dumpster and eventually hauled

volunteer and four as the GM, and is one of only two staffers (the

off by scrappers.

other is a personal repair mechanic in a service department that opened two weeks ago). The co-op stays afloat thanks in large

Believe it or not, Pilsen’s not-for-profit Working Bikes Cooperative

part to a loyal crop of volunteer mechanics who toil away on the

(2434 S. Western, 312-421-5048, workingbikes.org) encourages the

warehouse’s second floor, servicing mangled bikes to sell to the

city’s huddled masses of dilapidated bikes to find their way through the doors of its 20,000-square-foot warehouse. Twelve years ago, co-op founder Lee Ravenscroft, baffled by the city’s volume of discarded bikes, started stockpiling them in the basement of a property he owned. Ravenscroft, who was an instructor in

“If you head a few blocks in any direction out your front door, there’s a good chance you’ll come upon at least one corroding and neglected bike” -Kevin Warwick

an Engineers Without Borders-type

public (average costs range from $80 to $170) in a storefront that also contains an impressive mishmash of forks, tubes, handlebars, and crates upon crates of miscellaneous hardware. As I trolled the space, a pair of wideeyed, college kids who’d attended a film screening sponsored by Working Bikes the night before came in to lend a hand and learn how to fix bikes.

program while his wife was in the Peace Corps, started sending

Gonzalez immediately recognized them and put them to work.

bikes overseas to Nicaragua, with the shipping subsidized by the

The more volunteers, the more bikes to repair and donate.

expanded over the years—it housed somewhere around 1,500 bikes

“People know that a bike has value, so they’ll keep it in their

during my visit—the demand overseas has grown along with it.

basement or hanging upside down in the garage,” Gonzalez tells me. “We do hear, ‘Don’t you have all the bikes you’re going to need?’

Co-op general manager Raul Gonzalez notes that Working Bikes recently sent shipments to Panama and Uganda, and that the next shipment is bound for Ghana. The bikes, primarily collected through donations off the street and bike drives and events thrown by the co-op, are also recycled closer to home.

But we can always use more.”

17 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

sale of other pieces of his bike stockpile locally. As the co-op has

HOW

BAMBOO W

CHANGE THE

W O R L D

19 // MÃ&#x2026;NGATA // Fall 2016

LIFESTYLE

BY // SUSTAINABLE MATERIALS Construction projects these days aren't only governed by how environmentally friendly or sustainable the materials are, but how cost efficient they are. In many cases it's impossible to justify using a sustainable material for a cost that is far higher than traditional methods. Nonetheless, there are some natural and environmentally friendly materials, such as bamboo, that can be used to greatly effect while building different projects. Below is an introduction to bamboo, which is a great flooring material that has been underutilized for many years. This should provide you with the incentive to save money and contribute to the protection of our planet. Benefits of Bamboo Technically a grass, bamboo has been used in decorations and a number of other assortments, but has only recently been used on a larger scale for flooring. Perhaps as a result of the sustainable movement, the material has become increasingly popular. However, even though it's a sustainable resource, it's also a cost effective option. Although laminates are cheaper for flooring, most traditional hard wood flooring costs more money than bamboo. The benefits of bamboo are many fold. First of all, it's a natural, anti-bacterial wood that'll help buildings where there are children or people who can't be in contact with bacteria for fear of sickness. Another great feature of bamboo is that it's water resistant, which makes it a better choice than many other hardwood floors that can stain or deteriorate when any kind of moisture makes contact. It's also an extremely durable piece of material that's easy to move, yet still hard enough to provide you with great flooring.

LIFESTYLE

Harvesting Bamboo Luckily the harvesting of bamboo is also sustainable for the earth. The bamboo tree (or grass) is grown in abundance in many parts of the world. In some cases it's problematic for landowners because they're unable to access all of their land. In any case, the bamboo is a material that's perfect for sustainable construction. They can offer great quality hardwood floors, but they do not cost much to the environment. Overall, sustainable bamboo flooring is a great option for improving the building or construction plans for any project. The bamboo is a great antibacterial and is also water resistant. Both of these features make it superior to many other hardwoods that are used today. Many of the exotic trees used for wood flooring are unable to regenerate in way that bamboo does. If you want to change the world and provide yourself with a sustainable home, then bamboo flooring is a great way to go. Not only that, but it is a much more practical product. When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re considering potential building materials for home construction as a society we tend to focus on two or three commonly utilized and widely accepted building materials: wood, stone or concrete. What you may not realize is that bamboo solutions can be used for more than just food, musical instruments, medicine, paper and textiles. Uses for bamboo can also include building construction, both in exterior and interior design elements. Widely used in Asian, Pacific Islander, Central and Southern American cultures, bamboo is a sustainable and sturdy building material. Unlike wood, bamboo (a member of the grass family) regenerates very quickly. It is, in-fact, one of the fastest growing plants in the world, with the fastest

21 // MĂ&#x2026;NGATA // Fall 2016

growth rate reaching 100cm in a 24-hr period.

Establishing bamboo plantations in the US has a wide

Reducing cost per uses of bamboo

array of advantages, including:

Increasing jobs

LIFESTYLE 40% more CO2 absorption than trees and no fertilizer

atmosphere than trees

or pesticides required for growth

23 // MĂ&#x2026;NGATA // Fall 2016

35% higher oxygen emission into the

Adaptability: Bamboo can adapt to practically any climate.

In contrast to tree harvesting, there's simply no comparison to the replenishment rate of growing bamboo. Bamboo can be harvested every three to six years for construction purposes (depending on the species); whereas trees range from 25 years (for softwoods) to 50 years (for hardwoods). Making more use of bamboo for common building practices would allow forests to regenerate and help prevent future deforestation efforts. A minor setback to implementing the use of bamboo in construction projects arises due to the locations where bamboo flourishes the heartiest. Bamboo thrives in the tropical regions of the world, which can raise prices due to importing costs. Although farmers are capable of growing bamboo in nearly any climate, creating, and maintaining, a viable bamboo source requires replicating an environment that'll allow this sustainable building source to grow and thrive year-round. That being said, a movement has arisen to bring a practicable, sustainable and profitable bamboo growing business to the United States. Because of the nature of the plant, it's susceptible to deterioration agents such as insects, rot, fungi, and fire. It's important to treat the structure, inside and out. Untreated sections of the bamboo would need to be replaced every 2 to 3 years. Bamboo solutions are a highly sustainable, costeffective and beautiful construction material for homes. It can be used throughout the entire structure (inside and out ) and if preventative measures are utilized, it can last for many years. It's no wonder Asian, Central and South American cultures have grown to rely on this hearty grass for so many facets of their lives. One can only wonder what other uses we'll find for bamboo as North America adopts an increasing focus on sustainable building.

LIFESTYLE Strength and Durability:

25 // MÃ&#x2026;NGATA // Fall 2016

Bamboo is heartier than oak and stronger than steel.

External bamboo uses: Structural frames, corner posts,

Bamboo roots absorb about 17 liters of water within

braces, tie beams, rafters, roofing, and exterior walls

the first 2 years of development

LIFESTYLE minimizing the risk for warping

27 // MÃ&#x2026;NGATA // Fall 2016

Bamboo isflexible, lightweight, and water-resistant,

WE k

A SAFE

HOME

LIFESTYLE

The United Nations is an international organization founded in 1945. It is currently made up of 193 Member States. The mission and work of the United Nations are guided by the purposes and principles contained in its founding Charter.

End hunger, achieve food security and

End poverty in all its forms everywhere

improved nutrition and promote sustainable

Extreme poverty rates have been cut by

If done right, agriculture, forestry and fisheries can

more than half since 1990. While this is a

provide nutritious food for all and generate decent

remarkable achievement, one in five people

incomes, while supporting people-centered rural

in developing regions still live on less than

development and protecting the environment.

$1.25 a day, and there are millions more who

biodiversity are being rapidly degraded. Climate change is putting even more pressure on the resources we depend on, increasing risks associated with disasters such as droughts and floods.

many people risk slipping back into poverty.

29 // MĂ&#x2026;NGATA // Fall 2016

make little more than this daily amount, plus Right now, our soils, freshwater, oceans, forests and

Revitalize the global partnership

Ensure sustainable consumption

for sustainable development

and production patterns

A successful sustainable development agenda

Sustainable consumption and production

requires partnerships between governments, the

is about promoting resource and energy

private sector and civil society. These inclusive

efficiency, sustainable infrastructure, and

partnerships built upon principles and values, a

providing access to basic services, green and

shared vision, and shared goals that place people

decent jobs and a better quality of life for all.

and the planet at the centre, are needed at the

Its implementation helps to achieve overall

global, regional, national and local level.

development plans, reduce future economic, environmental and social costs, strengthen

Urgent action is needed to mobilize, redirect and

economic competitiveness and reduce poverty.

unlock the transformative power of trillions of dollars of private resources to deliver on sustainable

Sustainable consumption and production aims at

development objectives. Long-term investments,

â&#x20AC;&#x153;doing more and better with less,â&#x20AC;? increasing net

including foreign direct investment, are needed in

welfare gains from economic activities by reducing

critical sectors, especially in developing countries.

resource use, degradation and pollution along the whole lifecycle, while increasing quality of life.

These include sustainable energy, infrastructure and transport, as well as information and

It involves different stakeholders, including

communications technologies. The public sector will

business, consumers, policy makers, researchers,

need to set a clear direction. Review and monitoring

scientists, retailers, media, and development

frameworks, regulations and incentive structures

cooperation agencies, among others.

that enable such investments must be retooled to attract investments and reinforce sustainable development. National oversight mechanisms such as supreme audit institutions and oversight functions by legislatures should be strengthened.

LIFESTYLE

Sustainably manage forests, combat,

Make cities inclusive,

desertification, halt and reverse land

safe, resilient and sustainable

degradation, halt biodiversity loss

Cities are hubs for ideas, commerce, culture, science,

Forests cover 30 per cent of the Earth’s surface

productivity, social development and much more.

and in addition to providing food security and

At their best, cities have enabled people to advance

shelter; forests are key to combating climate

socially and economically.

change, protecting biodiversity and the homes of the indigenous population. Thirteen million

However, many challenges exist to maintaining

hectares of forests are being lost every year while

cities in a way that continues to create jobs and

the persistent degradation of dry lands has led to the

prosperity while not straining land and resources.

desertification of 3.6 billion hectares.

Common urban challenges include congestion, lack of funds to provide basic services, a shortage of

Deforestation and desertification – caused by

adequate housing and declining infrastructure.

human activities and climate change – pose major challenges to sustainable development and have affected the lives and livelihoods of millions of people in the fight against poverty. Efforts are being

31 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

made to manage forests and combat desertification.

Fashion with integrity.

FASHION Sustainability and fashion typically donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to collate with one another. While fashion trends come and go our beautiful planet cannot afford to come and go since we have a finite amount of resources and materials. Sustainable fashion, also referred to as eco fashion, is a part of the growing design philosophy and trend of sustainability. Fashion forward and eco-friendly is always the hottest style and we hope this trend never fades.

EKN FOOTWEAR X MR. BAILEY KUDZU SLIP-ON BY // MR. BAILEY

FASHION

One-piece vegetable tanned raw edge leather, recycled neoprene & magnetic closure. In an industry where consumers are cautious to try anything too new daring and generally stick within their favorite brands styles, how do you get them to try something a little different? This was a question we focused on quite a bit with our upcoming collection.

The KUDZU slip-on is the second release from my, “Mr. Bailey” collaboration line with the German sustainable footwear brand, ekn footwear the first being the BAMBOO Runner. This slip-on marks the first of a coming collection of footwear designed by both myself and ekn that are aimed at creating shoes that at a first look seem quite traditional, familiar and easy to wear with an outfit. However, when looking a little closer, you realist that the shoes are anything but ordinary. Essentially, we wanted to create a sustainable shoe that was made in Europe but embodied characteristics of some of the more popular, tech styles currently on the market. Creating an asymmetrically wrapped, raw edge nu-buck upper with zero stitching, gives the shoe a super clean look. This is basically our version of a no-sew upper. To keep the upper stitch-less, a neoprene booties was placed into the shoe. The elasticity needed to keep the sections to be stitched to the upper. The magnets were then applied to keep the booties and nu-buck snug to each other, but also allowing the booties to be removed for cleaning or customization.

37 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

shoe comfortable had to be maintained, but we didn’t want elastic

WHEN WORN JEANS ARE WORN, THEY WARM OUR COMMUNITIES

SMALL BUSINESS SUCCESS STORY: RAVEN + LILY CHANGES LIVES WITH ABLE LENDING

Caption

BY // EMILY STARBUCK CRONE

LIFESTYLE

“Marginalized women around the world — war and slavery refugees, the formerly homeless, the HIV positive — struggle to find stable income and avoid poverty.” -Emily Starbuck Crone

arginalized women around the world —

“I wanted to buy some time to prove how we were

war and slavery refugees, the formerly

doing, and I needed additional income to help us

homeless, the HIV positive — struggle to find

meet growth needs and demands,” she says.

stable income and avoid poverty. In 2011, Dickerson launched Raven + Lily, an ethical fashion and

But she struggled to get approved for a loan from

lifestyle brand, to produce beautiful goods and

traditional banks — even local banks. “I found that

give secure jobs to these at-risk women.

local banks were moved by my story, but had too much red tape to support a company that was still

It worked: Her B Corporation now employs over

at an early stage and functioning

1,000 at-risk women in eight countries, including

outside of the norm,” she says.

Ethiopia, India and Cambodia. What Dickerson didn’t expect was the difficulty of being understood

Banks didn’t fully understand her business model

by banks and obtaining loans needed to fulfill

as a B Corporation or her fair-trade buying and

her mission.

ordering cycles.

Dickerson’s team in Austin, Texas, designs clothes,

A new loan option using crowdfunding

jewelry, bags and other goods. They pay fair wages

That’s when a mentor appointed Dickerson to

to the at-risk women, who bring their designs to life

Able Lending, an Austin-based business that

using local, eco-friendly materials.

began making loans to small businesses around

Nama Brass Fringe Necklace

six months ago. It was founded by Will Davis “Our collections we sell are exclusive designs we

and Evan Baehr, who, while raising money for

design in-house in Austin, and they reflect the

a previous venture, noticed that a lot of local

beauty and the culture of the women who make

small businesses that needed capital to grow

them, but they’re still modern and fashion forward,”

were being turned down by traditional lenders.

Dickerson says. “We have great friends that built apparel companies, After enjoying national success from her retail

restaurants, jewelry companies and services firms,”

website and landing items in over 300 boutiques,

Baehr says. “They’re awesome businesses, and we’d

she opened a flagship storefront in Austin.

be at dinner conversations with them — here we are talking about how we’re raising millions of

The next step for her was to get a loan while she

dollars for our company, and they can’t get $100,000

proved that Raven + Lily could grow fast enough

to build out their new store or buy inventory.”

Kerina Horn+Brass Trapezoid Earrings

that would pave the way for a series B round at a higher valuation.

41 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

to meet the demand she knew was out there. Doing

Baehr found that consolidation of the financial industry and a slow recovery from the recession made it difficult for many entrepreneurs to access loans. “We needed a company that built a different way to lend money to the people the banks deemed not creditworthy,” he says. Baehr was inspired by the microfinance model and wanted to try something similar to Kiva, but for U.S. businesses and on a larger scale. They launched Able, and so far have funded $5 million of business. Able provides loans between $25,000 and $250,000 to incorporated, cash-flow-positive businesses — currently only in Austin, but soon statewide and later nationwide. Borrowers apply online and must pass a credit check and financial review. If approved, Able makes an offer covering 75% of the total borrowed amount. Terms range from one to three years, and interest rates never top 16% and are negotiable. Here’s where crowdfunding comes in: Borrowers recruit three to five “backers,” who pitch in the remaining 25% (they don’t have to split it evenly). Backers can charge the same interest rate as Able, or they can reduce it to as little as half of Able’s rate. Borrowers repay Able monthly, and they handle repaying the backers with interest. Photo Credit // w4.org

Why require backers? Baehr says in microfinancing, business owners often come together for loans. Because they know and trust each other, they’re

to turn away small businesses, even with excellent

Able was inspired by Dickerson’s vision and saw

willing to share each other’s risks. “We can offer

credit. “If they don’t have credit, collateral and cash

opportunity. “Whereas the bankers saw risks, we

significantly lower interest rates by involving people

flow — you need all three — they won’t get a bank

saw thousands of customers that just love her

that really know the business and business owner,”

loan,” she says.

company , what it’s achieving in the world,, and those are exactly the kinds of companies we want

Baehr says. She says alternative financing,, such as

to be able to support,” Baehr says.

Able originally thought most backers would be

crowdfunding and microlending, is helping fund

family, but they only make up 20%, he says. Many

the nation’s growing number of entrepreneurs.

Dickerson was approved for a $200,000 loan.

are customers wanting to invest in businesses

“You’ll continue to see more companies like Able

Without it, she would’ve had to turn down orders.

they’re passionate about and engage with them in

come out, because when there’s a need that’s not

“Because I was able to get that loan, I was able to

a different and important way. He says not a single

being filled, we’ll come up with solutions,” she says.

respond to the demand and prove the growth we were having,” she says.

borrower has failed to recruit their backers yet, and backers are usually in the same cities as

Solving a business problem

the borrowers.

Once Dickerson discovered Able, she says they took

A local advocate who served as an advisor for Raven

an immediate interest in Raven + Lily and became

+ Lily since the beginning stepped up as the first

“Able helps small businesses facing an all-too-

a true partner. “Our priority is so much employing

backer and recruited the others herself.

common struggle”, says Karlene Sinclair-Robinson,

these women that I want to be as profitable as

author of the best-selling book “Spank the Bank”

possible. I didn’t have to explain myself until I

and alternative financing expert for small

was blue with Able; they got it,” she says.

businesses. She says banks offer some of the best rates, but there’s still a credit crunch causing them

FASHION

Dickerson says the loan was the missing link to her

He says types of companies popular on social media,

success, and her business grew 189% from Q1 of 2014

such as retailers, restaurants, food trucks and

to Q1 of 2015. “My valuation is so much higher right

consumer packaged goods, often do well with Able

now than it was six months ago,” she says. “The

since it’s easier to find backers (Able helped beloved

loan really enabled me to wait this long instead of

Austin food truck Chi’Lantro go brick-and-mortar).

having to jump right into series B at the end of 2014.

The average business Able funds is 4 years old and

I’m now in my series B seeking to raise $1 million for

makes over half a million dollars a year.

this round.” Able is ideal for companies that don’t plan to raise Is your company ideal for Able?

equity capital. “Our option is faster and less dilutive

Baehr says most companies Able funds have been

as a debt product versus selling equity,” Baehr says.

different online lenders first, but were turned off by

Since Able offers straightforward term loans for

high rates (one competitor’s average interest rate is

growth capital (as opposed to startup capital),

56%, whereas Able’s is just over 12%).

Baehr says it’s ideal for everything from hiring new employees, to building a second location, to purchasing equipment and inventory. Able plans to offer more products in the future.,

43 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

turned away by banks for loans. Others explored

Dare to be dirty

LARA MILLER

BY // LARA MILLER

ara’s earth friendly pieces have been called “sultry,

Lara served as the Executive Director of the Chicago Fashion

sophisticated, and as endlessly variable as the woman

Incubator (CFI) at Macy’s on State Street from March 2009 to March 2012. Lara continues to consult with designers to help

who wears them” by elle.com.

them find fashion business resources as they launch and grow Born and raised in Chicago, Lara Miller’s work is strongly

their companies. A crafter and maker at heart, Lara has also lead

influenced by the city’s architectural and cultural landscape.

fashion workshops in illustration, knitting, dying, and design, for

Ecological sensitivity and fascination with both the built and

students both young and old.

moving form flow through each piece. Her modular designs are created with a playful geometry that connects to the

A found member, Lara sits on The Mayor’s Fashion Council, where

personalities of the women who wear them. Both joyous and

as the chair of the business development committee and the

sophisticated, Lara’s work has attracted international acclaim.

former chair of the resources committee, she helps support and promotes fashion designers living and working in Chicago.

Since exhibiting her student work as a “Featured Artist” at the Chicago boutique p.45 in the fall of 2002, Lara made repeat

Acknowledging the impact that we all have on our environment,

appearances in GenArt’s Fresh Faces as well as the Macy’s on State

I aspire to preserve and respect our earth in every way that I

Chicago Designer Shop. She has been named “Top 40 Under 40” by

can. I see my company as a way to support my community - not

Crain’s Chicago Business as well as “Indie Designer of the Year” by Chicago Magazine. As Chicago Magazine Green Award Honoree and Ecco Domani semi-finalist, Lara’s work has been featured on Elle. com, DailyCandy.com, The Today

“BORN AND RAISED IN CHICAGO, MY WORK IS STRONGLY INFLUENCED BY THE CITY’S ARCHITECTURAL AND CULTURAL LANDSCAPE.” -LARA MILLER

only by using organic materials while adhering to a “green” lifestyle and workspace - but also by manufacturing locally and working to sustain the sewn products industry in Chicago. While I am fueled by the need to change the general lack of concern

Show, the CBS Evening News, and in publications such as Italian

for waste in the fashion industry, my designs have little to do with

Vogue, Marie Claire, W, Vanity Fair, Cookie, Lucky Magazine, The

sacrificing style. Deemed “sultry, sophisticated, and as endlessly

New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, WWD, and Newsweek,

wearable as the woman who wears them” by Elle.com, I believe

among many others.

that it is my contemporary aesthetic which helps educate my customers about sustainable design by initially creating interest

As a Lexus Hybrid Living Sustainable Partner, Lara participates

and then in turn providing the information that can help them

in a number of events showcasing her garments while promoting

incorporate eco-friendly practices into their lifestyles.

environmental awareness. The most recent event was hosted by Robert F. Kennedy, Jr. to support the Waterkeepers Alliance. Lara

My designs come from a hybrid of hand-pattern making and

also appeared on the Sundance Channel’s “Big Ideas for a Small

draping. This process allows me to re-use old patterns and scrap

Planet” as a spokesperson for the Lexus Hybrid Living program.

material from previous productions as I develop my future

Her work has been gifted to a number of celebrities including

collections. The paper that I use for my patterns is a recycled

Sarah Jessica Parker, Maggie Gyllenhaall, Marion Cotillard,

craft paper. I only use O-tag paper when it is surplus from local

and Angelina Jolie.

companies, such as Henry Lee, who would otherwise be throwing this paper away. When I make my “markers” to put these designs

In addition to designing her eponymous label, Lara is the Co-

into production I do my best to limit my carbon footprint. Rather

Founder and Curatorial Director of Purely Fashion, www.purelyapp.

than sending my patterns off to be entered into a computer and

com, an invite-only mobile application that gives consumers the

printed, I draw the markers out myself onto scrap paper and

opportunity to connect to designers.

“As for the bamboo and soy, there is some controversy surrounding the actual “green” benefits of bamboo and soy fibers.”

then collect the left over paper and fabric. I am working with a

that they are coming from mills that the supplier has a close

paper making teacher, Jaime Thome, at Columbia College here

relationship with and feels confident in the factory’s ethical work

in Chicago to re-use this waste for our office stationary, with the

facilities providing fair wages and manageable hours.

leftovers being donated to her classes. These work standards are crucial to building an environmentally I extensively research each fiber that I use and make sure that

friendly and successful company into the future. In Chicago, all of

my colors are exclusively from low-impact reactive dyes, using

my garments are made by knitters and seamstresses who are paid

the least amount of petroleum by products and water possible. I

between $9 and $15 per hour depending upon the work. Many of

have also been researching ways of using only natural dye sources

them are women once employed by factories here in Chicago that

based on some of the natural dying that I learned while in school. I

began to close in the mid nineties, who had to take minimum

am hoping to pursue some leads in India that can allow me to dye

wage cleaning and nanny jobs as a result. With the help of these

the volume that I need to grow my business while maintaining

very talented knitters and seamstresses, I am able to maintain a

the color-fastness that my garments need to have to compete in

production practice that isn’t commonly used anymore to generate

the contemporary marketplace.

local employment.

My garments incorporate SKAL certified organic cotton,

All of our sweaters are loomed by hand here in Chicago, using

hemp, vegan ahimsa peace silk, organic wool, linen, lyocell,

no electricity besides stitching the garment’s pieces together.

flax and soy fibers, hand-loomed bamboo, and recycled

In creating my jersey and woven pieces, all of the patterns and

organic cotton. Sourced from a US based company Jimtex,

markers are hand drawn by me to maintain the highest level

the recycled cotton yarn is one of my favorite materials and

of control. Working alongside my cutter and seamstresses,

is something I hope to develop further in my collection. The

each garment is made with precise attention to detail and

yarn is regenerated from post-industrial scraps when larger

craftsmanship. I am doing my best to educate my workers about

companies make t-shirts and other organic cotton products.

recycling, although I do search through my garbage at the end

By re-using these remnants the need for growing more crops

of the day to make sure that everything is separated correctly.

and using dyes is eliminated. This yarn also significantly

I currently produce about 3,000 garments perseason knowing

reduces the amount of waste that goes into our landfills.

that the workforce and interest is such that I could increase this number by ten fold with the same attention to detail and quality.

As for the bamboo and soy, there is some controversy surrounding the actual “green” benefits of bamboo and soy fibers. This is a

Though truly inspired by the moving form and architecture, there

topic that Summer Rayne Oakes and I have talked about since I

is something to be said for the sustainable nature of my multi-

began my line. The controversy is because many manufacturers

functional garments. We cannot deny that at the cornerstone

use a chemical process that requires toxic solutions to break down

of all environmental practices lies conservation. The typical

the PH of the fiber. The bamboo and soy fibers that I use are not

business ideal of sell, sell, sell cannot continue. Sales are obviously

manufactured using these caustic solutions.

important to business; however, I have found that providing an environmentally friendly garment that is made well and that can

I have made sure that the soy and bamboo fibers that I use are

be worn in a multitude of ways has allowed for a loyal customer

made by a hydrogen peroxide manufacturing process versus a

base that continues to return season after season.

caustic chemical manufacturing process. There is quite a lot of information available on the web about the differences in these

Being a “green” company means much more to me than just

processes – please visit the following site as a jumping off point.

using eco-friendly fibers. It means supporting the local economy

http://organicclothing.blogs.com/my_weblog/2007/09/bamboo-

and using the least amount of energy possible. It means using a

facts-be.html

local printer that only uses recycled paper and partially runs on wind power. It means giving back in every way that I can to my

When sourcing my fibers, I try my very best to source from US based mills. This has become increasingly more difficult but I am still able to work with companies in Texas and the Carolinas to source some of my organic cotton. I have been given a guarantee by all of my sources that when the fabrics do come from abroad,

employees, my community, and the world.

For the next five years, “Who Made My Clothes?” will be the question we are seeking to answer.

FASHION

WHY DO WE NEED A

FASHION REVOLUTION?

BY // DANA GEFFNER

love clothing. Choosing what to wear is my

in wealthier countries like the United States.

creative outlet. But I've also dedicated my life to

The International Labour Organization (ILO)

fighting injustices, working on building a more just

set up a fund for compensation for the families

economy and, ultimately, trying to make the world

called the Donor Trust Fund. The Clean Clothes

a more fair place to work and live. I love to shop, but

Campaign put together a list of the brands that

shopping is also a source of inner conflict, as I think

were linked to the factory and that have sourcing

about the people I don’t see behind the clothing that

relationships in Bangladesh and called on them to

I want before I buy.

help support the survivors and compensate families of victims. It took two years of heavy campaigning

The apparel supply chain is extremely complex,

to encourage reluctant brands like Benetton to

starting with the raw material (cotton or wool are

contribute enough to reach the funding goal.

the most common agricultural sources) and going through 5-6 more processes to get a wearable

The Rana Plaza factory did'nt collapse due to a

product. Because the apparel sector is so labor

natural disaster. It collapsed because of structural

intensive, and because globalization is here to

failure, poor upkeep of the building, and weak

stay, we've seen U.S. apparel production drop by

emergency plans and equipment. It collapsed with

approximately 92% since the 1960’s. That means

people inside because workers were told to work

that in the 1960’s the U.S. was making 95% of its

despite visible cracks in the walls. All of this is the

clothing and today it's down to a mere 3%. The

result of the push for Fast Fashion. What is Fast

U.S. outsources 97% of its clothing production to

Fashion? It's the speed of fashion trends rolling out

countries around the world where labor is cheap

and the scurry of consumers to buy more and more

and worker protections are minimal or non-

clothes to keep up with those trends; for the system

existent, creating a race to the bottom for workers

to be maintained, these mountains of soon-to-be-

around the world.

outdated clothes need to be sold for less than the true cost of production.

Courtesy of Fashion Revolution.

industrial accident to hit the garment industry. Let

Those brands linked to the Rana Plaza disaster

us remember and never forget the 2013 disaster that

have a responsibility but those brands are not the

struck the Rana Plaza factory in Bangladesh, which

only actors supporting this system of Fast Fashion.

killed 1,134 workers. These workers were in that

Keeping up with trends has become more important

factory because, like most of us, they need to work

today than ever before. Where we used to have

to earn enough money to feed their families. The

two clothing seasons a year, we now have a new

reality - they were making clothing for consumers

clothing season with new styles available weekly.

51 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

April 24 marks the anniversary of the worst ever

“

Fast Fashion isn’t free. Someone, somewhere is paying. -Lucy Siegle

”

All illustrations courtesy of Fashion Revolution website.

On 24-30 April 2017, Fashion Revolution Week will bring people from all over the world together to use the power of fashion to change the story for the people who make the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothes and accessories.

The culture of Fast Fashion comes at a high cost

international policies are virtually impossible

to apparel workers and the environment, and the

to overturn once they are written into law.

international agreements. New trade policies such

Rana Plaza was the largest and most publicized

as the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) are a risk

apparel disaster, but unfortunately not the

to workers everywhere. The agreement will make

only one. Victims and their families of these

it easier to shift production to the countries with

disasters must be compensated. But what

the lowest wages and weakest worker protections,

about the invisible victims who make our

taking decent manufacturing jobs out of some

clothing every day, in dangerous conditions,

countries, and further trapping the most vulnerable

with little protection, and for poverty wages?

workers in other countries in this system. And these

55 // MĂ&#x2026;NGATA // Fall 2016

system is re-enforced by government policy and

SUSTAINABILITY STITCHED INTO OUR SOLES.

@eknfootwear eknfootwear.com

PRODUCTS Nothing gets us more excited than discovering new, innovative products that are crafted with sustainable materials and with sustainable methods. From water purification filters to companies dedicated to bringing families the absolute best products of superior quality, sustainable products are those that provide environmental, social and economic benefits while protecting public health and environment over their whole life cycle, from the extraction of raw materials until the final disposal. Sustainable products help ensure a sustainable and better tomorrow.

Patagoniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Revised Mission:

Do Good

BY // GEAR JUNKIE

early 60 years ago, Yvon Chouinard bought a few tools at a junkyard,

Those humble beginnings spawned Patagonia, the global outdoor clothing

taught himself blacksmithing and made rock-climbing hardware

and gear company widely admired for its values-laden business practices and

that he sold from the trunk of his car. Chouinard had no lofty goal in

financial success. Chouinard (pronounced shwee-nar) didn’t set out to make

mind. He simply wanted to make enough money to go climbing and

Patagonia one of the world’s most socially responsible and influential companies.

to make better climbing equipment. Even after he hired a few friends,

But he has continued to do business his own way by defying conventional

rented space and formed a company called Chouinard Equipment, its first

business wisdom. How? By putting the earth first, by making products that last,

catalog — a one-page sheet of items and prices — warned customers not

by telling customers to buy fewer of them, by sharing earnings with grassroots

to expect fast delivery during the summer. That was climbing season.

environmental groups, by spreading the gospel of sustainability far and wide,

Photo credit // Getty Images

“I’m a product-driven person, I look at products and say, ‘I can make a better one of those.’” -Chouinard

and, yes, by telling people who work there that, so long as their jobs get done,

corrections. The company’s biggest hurdle was triggered by a period of explosive

they can surf when the waves are up, ski when the powder’s fresh, and climb

growth. The business wouldn’t exist today if Chouinard hadn’t examined its

mountains when the urge strikes.

reason for existence and continually measured its ultimate impact on the world with the goal to do the most good and the least harm.

“I’m hoping to influence more companies to do the right thing,” Chouinard tells world’s biggest retailer, Wal-Mart, turned to Chouinard and Patagonia for advice

A Look at Patagonia’s Environmental Impact: Yvon Asks, ‘Why are We in Business, Anyway?’

as it sought ways to become more sustainable.

Success almost spoiled Patagonia. It happened long after Chouinard Equipment

B Magazine of environmental stewardship in business. And that he has. The

morphed into Patagonia, and Chouinard learned a lesson that has guided him Today, at age 77, as his company approaches $1 billion in sales, Chouinard

ever since: The devotion to quality that made his climbing-tools business a

is looking for fresh summits. His company is expanding into food, venture

success applied equally to his clothing enterprise. “I’m a product-driven person,”

investing and residential solar power — none directly related to clothing, but

he says. “I look at products and say, ‘I can make a better one of those.’”

all aligned with the goals and mission of Patagonia. “I don’t think people have thought deeply about what can be done with agriculture,” Chouinard says.

Patagonia began in 1973 by selling clothes designed for the outdoors to

“I look at it as an opportunity.”

adventurers, who loved its tough, colorful rugby shirts and “standup shorts” (still available, for $59), which were originally made of duck canvas and stood up on

As befits a world-class climber and inveterate adventurer, Chouinard’s ascent

the table when they came off the sewing machines. The brand soon appealed to

to his level of influence and success came with its share of stumbles and course

the less adventurous as well.

PRODUCTS

“All of a sudden you have New Yorkers buying these things to get in their gold

The Patagonia trip was a watershed moment. “I knew, after 35 years, why I was

edition Jeep Cherokees to drive to their Connecticut homes,” Chouinard jokes. By

in business,” Chouinard wrote in Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of

the late 1980s, the company was growing by 30 percent to 50 percent a year and

a Reluctant Businessman, his 2005 book. “I wanted to create in Patagonia a

borrowing heavily to open new stores and sales offices around the world. “We

model other businesses could look to in their own searches for environmental

were strung out by growth,” he says.

stewardship and sustainability, just as our pitons and ice axes were models for other equipment manufacturers.”

A recession hit in 1990, and Patagonia’s primary lender pulled back. Chouinard was forced to close offices and showrooms, and he laid off 20 percent of the

When they returned to California, Chouinard and his colleagues summed up

company’s workforce, including the CEO and chief operating officer. Chouinard

their thinking in a mission statement that has steered Patagonia since: “Build

says, “It was the worst thing I’ve ever had to go through. A lot of these people

the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and

were my friends, and it was absolutely my fault.” After they survived the

implement solutions to the environmental crisis.”

downturn, Chouinard and about a dozen senior executives made a group trip of self-discovery to the mountains of Patagonia, the wild region at the southern tip

To instill the newly defined value system in the staff, Chouinard led employees

of South America that is the company’s namesake. Chouinard asked his team,

on weeklong adventure trips to places like Yosemite and the Marin Headlands.

“Why are we in business, anyway?”

The Materials Evolution: Organic Cotton Takes Hold They decided, first of all, that the company should be dedicated to making

In 1994, Patagonia conducted its first environmental impact assessment report,

the best-quality products, which are durable, simple and require little care.

which included life-cycle analyses of the fibers it used the most: cotton, wool,

As Chouinard once put it, “You should be able to wash travel clothes in a sink

polyester and nylon. Industrially grown cotton was the worst; the company

or a cooking pot, then hang them out to dry in a hut and still look decent for

found that 10 percent of all agricultural chemicals in the United States were

the plane ride home.” To Patagonia, importantly, quality also means doing

used to produce cotton. Even today, cotton is grown on 2.4 percent of the

minimal harm to the environment.. The executive team decided it wanted the

world’s cropland, yet it accounts for 24 percent and 11 percent of global sales of

company to support environmental causes with its profits. This goal eventually

insecticides and pesticides respectively, according to the World Wildlife Fund.

led Chouinard and Patagonia to help found 1% for the Planet, a group of more than 1,200 companies and brands that have pledged to give at least 1 percent of annual sales to nonprofit environmental groups. Photo credit // Brandon Sharpe

Photo Credit // Brandon Sharpe

Chouinard decided that Patagonia had to switch to organic cotton. He gave the company 18 months to do so and pushed forward despite higher costs. It wasn’t easy. Organic cotton was not available in sufficient quantities through brokers, so the company had to go directly to farmers. Its ginners and spinners had to be persuaded to work with organic cotton, which has more leaves and stems than conventional cotton and is, therefore, more difficult to spin. But by 1996, all Patagonia garments made of cotton were organic, and they have been ever since. Of course, bold, sometimes revolutionary approaches to product improvement have always been part of the company’s personality. “I don’t think we could have made the change to organic cotton if we hadn’t made the change from pitons to chocks,” says Vincent Stanley, who is Chouinard’s nephew and co-author with Chouinard of The Responsible Company: What We’ve Learned from Patagonia’s First 40 Years. “It gave us a cultural confidence.” The company’s leaders felt they had to take responsibility for every link in its supply chain. “Leading an examined life in business is a pain in the ass,” Chouinard once said. Even so, Patagonia is constantly raising the standards for its materials and suppliers.

Photo Credit // Pexels

The evolution of its fleece jackets is a case in point. They were introduced in the 1980s in collaboration with Malden Mills in Massachusetts, which developed technology to turn petroleum-based polyester into a low-cost, lightweight,

After learning about organic cotton, Wal-Mart and Sam’s Club began selling

insulated fleece that was branded as Synchilla. Working together, the two

yoga outfits, baby clothes and teen fashions made of organic cotton. Together,

companies learned how to make a fleece jacket from 25 quart-sized plastic

the two chains became the biggest retailer of organic cotton products.

soda bottles in the mid-1990s. Later, Patagonia worked with Teijin, a progressive fabric manufacturer in Japan, to make polyester from recycled fibers. The

This odd-couple relationship gave birth to a grand initiative, the Sustainable

clothing made with those recycled fibers could then be returned to Patagonia

Apparel Coalition. It began in 2009 when Chouinard and Wal-Mart’s Chief

and Teijin, melted down, and extruded again.

Merchandising Officer, Jim Fleming, invited the CEOs of major apparel companies to help create an industrywide effort to standardize sustainability metrics.

Furthering Patagonia’s Mission Statement

The goal was to develop a common language so that companies could improve

As Patagonia learned more about its environmental footprint, it shared that

their environmental performance, deal in a consistent way with labor issues

knowledge with customers and other companies. In 2007 Patagonia introduced

in their supply chains and, eventually, persuade consumers that their claims

the Footprint Chronicles a website that explains its social and environmental

about sustainably sourced apparel were trustworthy. Patagonia’s Ridgeway and

practices and tells the stories of its products’ origins.

Wal-Mart executive Fox visited other companies, such as Target, J.C. Penney and Nike, to persuade them to join.

As longtime Patagonia executive Rick Ridgeway, a celebrated mountaineer and the company’s head of environmental responsibility, explains, “These slides,

“We would never have gotten going without Patagonia’s support, and especially

videos and interviews discuss what is good about the product and what sucks.

Rick Ridgeway,” says Jason Kibbey, who became CEO of the coalition.

It’s the good and the bad. It’s total transparency.” Today, the Sustainable Apparel Coalition consists of about 175 retailers, As interest in corporate sustainability has grown, other companies have

manufacturers, suppliers and nongovernmental organizations. The coalition

increasingly sought out Patagonia for advice. Jib Ellison, a sustainability

has built the Higg Index, a standardized supply-chain measurement

consultant and world-class river-rafting guide who’d traveled to Siberia with

tool, which some companies — including Patagonia — are now using.

Chouinard, fostered a relationship between Wal-Mart and Patagonia. Mary Fox, Wal-Mart’s senior vice president for apparel sourcing, says her company “wanted

Patagonia has continued to extend its reach, branching into food with

to become more sustainable but we really didn’t know how.” In 2008, Wal-Mart

Patagonia Provisions. $20 Million & Change, Patagonia’s venture capital fund,

executives traveled from Bentonville, Arkansas, to California to sit down with

has helped small companies get off the ground. And last March, Patagonia

executives from Patagonia, and then Chouinard went to speak at a Wal-Mart

joined with four other Certified B Corportaions, Kina’ole Capital Partners, New

sustainability summit.

Resource Bank, Beneficial State Bank and solar-power installer Sungevity, to create a $35 million fund to finance residential rooftop solar power. Informally,

“It was inspirational for Wal-Mart to see a functioning, profitable business that

Patagonia executives, particularly Ridgeway and Stanley, advise a variety

had such a strong moral stand and high-quality products, loyal customers — all

of companies. Rose Marcario, Patagonia’s CEO, says, “I get calls from CEOs,

the things any company wants,” Ellison says.

probably several times a month. We’re very transparent about our journey.”

LIFESTYLE

The Growth Conundrum: Balancing Patagonia’s Sales with Environmental Stewardship

including Patagonia’s, causes harm. Patagonia began aggressively encouraging

Patagonia continues to ask tough questions about its social and environmental

buzz-generating full-page ad in The New York Times on Black Friday with the

stewardship. The chemicals used in the finishes on durable, water-repellent

headline, “Don’t Buy This Jacket.” Patagonia encourages customers to repair the

fabric work really well, but some byproducts of the fluorocarbon-based

clothes they buy or send them to the company for repairs. Patagonia operates

treatments are toxic and can persist in the environment. So should Patagonia

the largest garment-repair facility in North America and repaired more than

make “the best product” or “cause no unnecessary harm,” which are both

40,000 garments in 2015. Retail staff are trained to handle simple repair jobs,

part of the mission? For now, it’s investing in cleaner chemistry technology,

which total thousands more. All Patagonia clothing that is fully worn-out can

as it explains on its The Cleanest Line blog. “We’re working really hard to

be returned to retail locations to be recycled.

its customers not to buy things they don’t need. In 2011, the company took out a

identify a replacement that delivers the same performance,” says Cara Chacon, the company’s senior director of social and environmental responsibility.

Succession planning is a big reason Patagonia became a benefit corporation and a Certified B Corporation in 2012. By amending its articles of incorporation

Another big challenge: Four years ago, an internal audit found forced laborers

to include the company’s commitment to social and environmental good,

were being exploited in Patagonia’s supply chain in Taiwan. These were

Patagonia legally codified its values. Chouinard believes that the benefit

so-called Tier 2 suppliers — mills that turn raw materials into the fabrics

corporation structure “creates the legal framework to enable mission-driven

that are then cut and sewn into garments by suppliers who work directly for

companies like Patagonia to stay mission-driven through succession, capital

Patagonia. These mills used labor brokers who charged illegally high fees — up

raises and even changes in ownership, by institutionalizing the values, culture,

to $7,000 — to workers who wanted jobs, trapping them in debt they could not

processes and high standards put in place by founding entrepreneurs.”

repay. Patagonia hired Verité, a respected nonprofit with deep experience in supply-chain and human-rights issues, to investigate and help devise reforms. Once again, Patagonia came clean on its blog. With Verité, Patagonia created a free-to-the-public, 46-page set of standards for hiring migrant workers that are designed to stop exploitative labor practices. It the problem has been solved. “It’s an enormous undertaking, and there are challenges everywhere,” Chacon says, “but we’re making progress.” Unresolved, too, is a more fundamental question: Can Patagonia continue to grow without expanding its environmental footprint? This has been a decadeslong conversation inside the company, going back to a 1991 essay, “Reality Check,” in the company catalog, reminding customers that all product manufacturing,

67 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

has also asked suppliers to reimburse the exploited workers. But no one believes

70%

â&#x20AC;&#x153; of our garments are made with sustainable materials.â&#x20AC;?

Certified Comfort. Certified Green.

“Just buying fair traded ingredients, is that actually getting to the root cause of inequalities in supply chains? Not really. It’s wanting to go beyond that, beyond just a fairly traded ingredient.”

LUSH COSMETICS THRIVES WITH TRANSPARENCY AND SUSTAINABILITY BY // DINUSHI DIAS

ush Cosmetics prides itself on being a company founded by “hippies” but

Speaking at a private lunch in Sydney last week, Granger also revealed Lush

with 900 stores, 1500 employees and revenue nearing $1 billion worldwide,

will be opening more larger format, stores including a 250-square meter space at

the hippies that power this retail chain must be doing something right.

the Queen Victoria Building in Sydney, which will open this August.

Lush Cosmetics Australia is on track to turn over $50 million this year, as

With no funds spent on celebrity endorsements, opting instead to pay extra

director Peta Granger and Mark Lincoln drive the business through a major

for more environmentally friendly ingredients, and taking on risky social and

growth phase while also moving to further improve its supply chain, sustainable

political campaigns, Lush received international recognition at the 2016 World

processes and ethical standards. “Just buying fairly trade ingredients, is that

Retail Awards, where it took the honor of Responsible Retailer of the Year.

actually getting to the root cause of inequalities in supply chains? Not really,” Granger told SmartCompany. “It’s wanting to go beyond that, beyond just a fairly

Closer to home, Lincoln says the business is also having internal wins. “We

traded ingredient.”

run an anonymous survey for staff, which helps with our to-do list,” he says. Of Lush’s Australian workforce of more than 400 employees, Lincoln says more

In early 2017, Lush Cosmetics Australia will open up its manufacturing kitchen

than 70% are satisfied with their pay, work and environment. “Learning to tell

to the press and public in a bid to boost transparency around how its products

our story better definitely had a big impact,” Granger says. “We just got better at

are made. Located in Villawood, New South Wales, and spanning over 4,000

communicating [the values and ethics that had always been there] to staff and

square meters, the “Lush Kitchen” will be open for people to come in and even try

customers. “Having both of those sets of people understand who we are, what

their hand at making some of the bath and beauty products.

we do and the lengths that we go to, that has a huge impact on engagement.”

Photo credit // Cassie Craven

“We just got better at communicating the values and ethics that have always been there.” Switching To Better Ingredients — Even At A Cost On a mission to produce beauty and skincare products without animal testing,

that you give helps it get off the ground and get to a scale where they can

using sustainable ingredients, and ethical buying, Granger and Lincoln say Lush

become self-sustainable.” To date, the fund has injected more than $5 million

seizes every opportunity to deliver on these aims and increase the benchmark

into 44 projects across 21 countries. “We really want to work with developing

for what is possible in the cosmetics industry. When the business discovers an

communities by supporting and respecting local wisdoms,” says Granger.

ingredient that isn’t as sustainable as it could be, it will swap to something better for the environment and consumers, even if it’s more expensive. After receiving

Having Tough Conversations

feedback on the negative impact of plastic glitter, Lush swapped to a seaweed

Tackling sensitive issues like the treatment of asylum seekers and more recently,

based ingredient that cost six times more because it would be better aligned

saving the Great Barrier Reef, is no easy feat for a retailing brand trying to make

with the company’s environmental values, Lincoln says. He adds that Lush has

sales, but Lush takes a very strategic approach to ensure its frontline staff are

also chosen not to patent the palm oil-free soaps it recently invented so that

well prepared to manage the difficult conversations that come with being an

other brands wanting to switch to more sustainable methods can follow suit.

activist retailer. Granger jokes that they’ve been called an activist group that uses shops as a front. This isn’t far too removed from the truth. With Lush set up

Investing In Startups To Amplify Impact

at some of Australia’s busiest retail spaces, the brand is effectively using these

Lush directs 2% of its buying spend into sustainable startup ventures around

as broadcasters and billboards for not-for-profits, charities and greater causes.

the world via its “Slush fund” (Sustainable Lush Fund). Through non-exclusive

The big goal is to spark conversations about “hard truths” with those that aren’t

partnerships, this fund helps entrepreneurial permaculture farmers grow

the converted. “Those hippies and activists still run the business,” says Lincoln.

businesses while simultaneously helping Lush clean up its supply chain even further by sourcing more environmentally friendly, sustainable and fairer than fair trade ingredients. “We try to focus on projects that have the potential to become sustainable,” Granger says. “You don’t want to start funding something you’re going to have to fund for the next 10 years, the idea is that the funding

1,000,000+ pieces of denim collected 600+ tons of denim diverted from landfills 2+ million square feet of Ultra Touch Denim Insulated generated.

the nes t le arning thermos tat

LEARNS ABOUT YOU

AND LOVES YOU

PRODUCTS

As one of the world's most sustainable companies, New Belgium Brewing Co. talks about their goals for the future and the importance of other industries moving towards sustainability.

77 // MĂ&#x2026;NGATA // Fall 2016

BY // JENN ORGOLINI

New Belgium Brewing Co.'s signature beer Fat Tire.

hen asked about New Belgium’s

Profitability, reputation, legislation, and conscience

sustainability ethos, it is quick to point out

all conspire to bring sustainable practices to the

that as a whole, the craft brewing industry attracts

top of every company’s agenda. Certainly any

hands-on tinkerers, dreamers, and visionaries.

vision of the future for craft beer will include a

They're just the sort of people who abhor waste

focus on environmental sustainability. But what

and are driven to continuous improvement, people

are sustainable business practices? In an industry

to whom sustainable business practices come

whose members’ annual production ranges from 20

naturally. That said, craft brewers have a lot on

barrels to 2 million barrels, a plethora of approaches

their plates and may have yet to take stock of

will make sense. Often times, preserving our

their ability to meet the following challenges:

natural resources is just another name for thrift, a best practice in any business and essential

•• ••

Rising energy prices, as the remaining fossil

for cash-poor start-ups. As companies and their

fuel stores become more difficult to harvest.

founders mature, thoughts turn to succession—

Consumer demand for transparency and

who will sustain the company and how does our

accountability and for the opportunity to

generation sustain a world worth living in?

support a company that reflects their values. ••

Pressure on water supply and quality due to development and climate change.

PRODUCTS

GETTING STARTED The most obvious place to begin to address sustainability is under one’s

employee engagement. When a whole company crafts its vision and strategy, its

own roof, in operations. Brewers have the opportunity—and responsibility—to

achievement is almost assured. Co-workers who share in the company’s success

continuously maximize efficiency in water and energy use. Before picking

are more likely to pay careful attention to energy and water use. If employees

projects, it can be useful to cultivate intentions. Will sustainability’s merit be

are empowered to improve the processes they are responsible for, innovation

measured solely on the income statement or does it spring from a broader

arises everywhere.

ethical base? Is the CEO, or ultimate financial decision-maker, on board? What about co-workers—will sustainability practices become part of the daily

At New Belgium, when we decided several years ago to become more strategic

conversation at the brewery or will this work be the province of a few? Will

about our sustainability, we formed a team with representatives from all

sustainability be a discrete program or a way to evaluate all decisions made

throughout the brewery—the CEO, a project engineer, a graphic designer, guest

at your brewery?

relations, maintenance, packaging, cellaring, Environment, Health & Safety, and accounting—to create a sustainability management system. Together we decided what we were trying to achieve, determined how we would measure

to determine whether or not you’ve been successful. Ideally, craft breweries

and report on our achievements, and collected project ideas. We identified three

of every size will fully embrace the mission of sustainability, making it part

existential questions that helped us surface our intentions: What environmental

of their purpose, alongside creating fabulous beer and wonderful places to

crises are facing the planet? How does the brewing industry contribute to these

work. In fact, environmental consciousness seems almost synonymous with

challenges? What can we do to help improve the industry’s impacts?

79 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

It's important to become clear about what you're trying to achieve in order

LOOKING OUTSIDE THE BREWERY

THE BIG PICTURE

For most consumer packaged goods, beer included,

drink genetically engineered beer, but because for

While we do the day-in and day-out work of

the greatest environmental impacts are in the

millennia, human civilization has sustained itself

making our business more sustainable, it is easy to

supply chain. For example, more water is used to

through an agrarian cycle of planting, harvesting,

wonder what impact we can really have in the big

grow barley and make malt and more energy is

storing, and replanting. Genetically engineered seed

picture of global climate change, peak oil, and the

used to make glass and distribute beer, than are

is intellectual property, and the fundamental right

earth’s growing toxic load. Even within our

used at the brewery. So our accountability extends

to replant seed is legislated away. Craft brewers

industry, it’s difficult for one company to make

beyond the making of our beer to its sourcing and

need to become aware of the issue and to send clear

systemic change.

selling. If we work together to improve the impact

signals to our raw material suppliers if we care to

of our supply chain, we are in effect making our

preserve free and public access to seeds.

whole industry more sustainable, rather than

The work we do as brewers may be but a splash, but our ability to promote the pleasures of a simple

just our individual companies. Like consumers

While there often aren’t many options for new

life that honors nature and community can create

influencing the sustainability of the marketplace

packaging and raw materials suppliers, brewers’

a ripple. As James Ottolini, Schlafly’s brewmaster,

with their purchasing decisions, we can do the

point of sale provides lots of opportunity for

puts it: “What are you doing with the brief moment

same and reward those who are trying to change

improvement. At New Belgium, we created a matrix,

in time that you’re given on this planet? The

business as usual.

scoring each of our 125+ point of sale, soft goods, and

greater good that craft brewers provide is building

promotional items in terms of their design longevity,

community just as taverns of old were the center

A burgeoning threat to craft brewers is the

durability, origin, mode of transport, materials, and

of business and civic life.” We are honoring our

potential for genetically engineered barley—not

packaging. Just by contacting our suppliers, we

heritage to use beer as a platform from which to

only because our customers may not want to

were able to easily make tangible improvements.

improve our world.

New Belgium’s 870-panel, 200 kWh photovoltaic array, the largest privately held solar array in Colorado.

ADVEN

NTURE

ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S A LIFESTYLE.

BE SMART ABOUT COOLING AND HEATING BY // PATRICIA MERTZ ESSWEIN

PRODUCTS

learning thermostat, like a programmable

Country. At home, you can also “talk” to the thermostat

thermostat, automatically changes

via a virtual assistant. The Nest and Ecobee3 work with

the temperature in your house. But unlike a

Amazon’s Echo and Google Home, and the Ecobee3 and

programmable thermostat, it collects information

the Lyric work with Apple’s smart-home kit.

about your daily routine and temperature preferences, learns about your home (how quickly

The Nest and most of its competitors work with most

does it heat or cool?) and uses algorithms to create

low-voltage (24-volt ) heating and cooling systems.

a schedule that acknowledges your habits.

(Electric baseboard heating is usually high-voltage.) To look up your system, use the “compatibility check” on the

The Nest (and its competitors) will likely use

manufacturers’ websites. Some high-efficiency heating-

less energy, too. That’s because such learning

and-cooling systems require proprietary thermostats, which can’t be replaced.

thermostats automatically set a schedule of heating and cooling for your home – a step many owners of programmable thermostats fail to complete – and know when you’re home or not and adapt accordingly. (The Nest’s “auto away” feature uses sensors to discern when no one is home to avoid cranking up the heat or air-conditioning when the

The Nest ($249), the first learning thermostat, was groundbreaking when it was

You can buy a learning thermostat from an online or big-box retailer, and even homeowners who aren’t handy can install one in less than an hour. Professional

introduced by Nest Labs

installation generally costs $99 to $250

five years ago. Now it has

Nest recommends professional installation

competition: the Ecobee3 ($249), Honeywell’s Lyric

house is empty.)

($199) and versions from

According to 2 independent

several smaller companies.

but may come with a longer warranty. for a dual-fuel system (such as a heat pump with a furnace) or for systems with a whole-home humidifier or dehumidifier.

studies, Nest users cut their heating bills by an average of 10 percent to 12 percent and their cooling bills by 15 percent, with average annual savings of $131 to $145. To see what you could save, use the calculator at www.nest.com. You can check and control your thermostat with your laptop or an app on your phone, tablet or smart watch. Stephen Coleman, of Woods Comfort Solutions, a Nest installer in San Marcos, Texas, says the Nest is popular with owners of vacation homes in his area. They can turn on their air-conditioning

85 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

or heating as they travel from Houston to the Hill

TECHNOLOGY We all know that technological developments are thrusting our society forward and bringing consumers new ways to enhance their everyday lives and now more than ever, they are enhancing the world around us, through us. Sustainable Technology reflects an approach to technological development, characterized by creative and eco-friendly engineering, that recognizes the social, environmental, political, economic, and technical aspects of a proposed technological solution to a problem facing our society. For all you techies out there, we want to introduce you to some of the most futuristic and technologically advanced technologies that optimize our lives and the earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longevity.

BY // NIKE, INC.

yeCoo Textile Systems B.V., a Netherlands-based company and NIKE, Inc.

President of Merchandising and Product. “We believe this technology has the

have announced that it has entered into a strategic partnership. DyeCoo

potential to revolutionize textile manufacturing, and we want to collaborate

has developed and built the first commercially available waterless textile dyeing

with progressive dye houses, textile manufacturers and consumer apparel

machines. By using recycled carbon dioxide, DyeCoo’s technology eliminates the

brands to scale this technology and push it throughout the industry.”

use of water in the textile dyeing process. The name “DyeCoo” was inspired by the process of “dyeing” with “CO2.” The partnership is illustrative of NIKE, Inc.’s

Nike has been exploring this technology for the past eight years and expects to

long-term commitment to designing and developing the most superior athletic

showcase cutting edge apparel using textiles dyed without water at events, with

performance products for athletes and its overall sustainable business and

an eye towards scaling the technology for larger production volumes.

innovation strategy. “We’re very excited to be partnering with Nike to help drive this together and “Waterless dyeing is a significant step in our journey to serve both the athlete

believe the benefits and impacts of this technology are significant,” says Reinier

and the planet, this partnership reinforces Nike’s long-term strategy and deep

Mommaal, CEO of DyeCoo.”There's no water consumption, a reduction in energy

commitment to innovation and sustainability,” says Eric Sprunk, Nike’s Vice

use, no auxiliary chemicals required, no need for drying, and the process is twice

TECHNOLOGY

as fast. The technology can also improve the quality of the dyed fabric, allows

conventional textile dyeing will no longer be needed, nor will the commensurate

for greater control over the dyeing process, enables new dye capabilities and

use of fossil fuel-generated energy be required to heat such large sums of water.

transforms fabric dyeing so that it can take place just about anywhere. We hope

The removal of water from the textile dyeing process also eliminates the risk of

more industry leaders will join us in leveraging this innovative technology in the

effluent discharge, a known environmental hazard. The CO2 used in DyeCoo’s

near future.”

dyeing process is also reclaimed and reused.

Conventional textile dyeing requires substantial amounts of water. On average,

DyeCoo is believed to be the first company to successfully apply the SCF CO2

an estimated 100-150 liters of water is needed to process one kg of textile

process to the commercial dyeing of polyester fabric, and research is already

materials today. Industry analysts estimate that more than 39 million tonnes

underway to apply the technology to other natural and synthetic fabrics.

of polyester will be dyed annually by 2015. Nike says it expects DyeCoo’s

SCF CO2 technology is safely utilized at scale in other industries such as the

supercritical fluid carbon dioxide, or “SCF” CO2 dyeing technology, to have a

decaffeination of coffee and the extraction of natural flavors and fragrances.

particularly positive impact in Asia, where much of the world’s textile dyeing

91 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

occurs. As this technology is brought to scale, large amounts of water used in

UNCOMPROMISED SUSTAINABILITY The breakthrough of waterless dyeing is combined with another sustainable

NIKE, Inc. today unveiled the ColorDry Polo in a palette of vibrant colors – Nike’s

apparel innovation: recycled polyester. The ColorDry Polo is 100 percent recycled

first product available to consumers using ColorDry technology that dyes fabric

polyester, made from polyester manufacturing scraps and recycled plastic

with zero water.

bottles that are washed, chopped into flakes and melted down to produce fine yarn used to create the polo’s fabric. An equivalent of nine recycled plastic

It takes 30 liters of water to dye a T-shirt using traditional dyeing methods.

bottles is used to make each polo. Since 2010, Nike has diverted more than two

ColorDry technology removes water from the dyeing process by using recycled

billion bottles from landfills, enough to cover over 3,500 full-sized soccer pitches.

CO2 to infuse fabric with intense, saturated color. The technology also saves energy and eliminates the need for added chemicals in the fabric dyeing process.

The ColorDry Polo release follows Nike’s February 2012 strategic minority investment in Dutch start-up, DyeCoo Textile Systems B.V. normally used for

“The ColorDry Polo provides a glimpse into an advanced technology that delivers

dyeing, with recycled CO2, reducing energy use and eliminating the need for

a brilliant spectrum of intense colors while eliminating the use of water and

added chemicals in the process.

process chemicals. We’re excited about the potential of scaling ColorDry and applying waterless dyeing technology across other materials,” said Mike Yonker, Nike VP of Product Innovation.

WHEN WORN JEANS ARE WORN, THEY WARM OUR COMMUNITIES

STITCHED WITH SUSTAINABILITY.

JUST DO IT.

TECHNOLOGY

THE ULTIMATE CHICAGO BIKE, REVEALED:

MEET THE BLACKLINE BY // PATRICK SISSON

t a Friday night release party, held in a warehouse next to Minimal’s West Loop office, the bike prototype developed by Chicago’s Oregon Manifest

team was finally revealed to the public. The team’s vision for a better bike for Chicago, the tech-heavy BLACKLINE, presented a reductive version of what an urban utility bike can be, with a name inspired by the rattling Green Line train that runs just above Minimal’s Lake Street studio. According to brand director Kevin Flatt, they thought about it as the ride that can “take you to the places where the el train can’t.” The most striking feature may be the empty space. The oversized two-inch main tube cuts a distinctive profile with a single line, an angular shape that the team’s frame builder, Garry Alderman of Method Bicycle, said took him out of his comfort zone in a very good way. In an attempt to design without wasting a gesture, the Chicago team has built a sleek and assertive entry. Combined with the curved wood fenders, with lights that run parallel with the oversized tires, BLACKLINE embodies the theme of rugged refinement and the “everything you need, nothing you don’t” ethos the team focused on during the

97 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

design process.

Custom Helios handlebars To make the bike more responsive and connected, the Minimal team reached out to Helios, a San Francisco startup behind an integrated headlight and blinker system that raised more than $100,000 on Kickstarter last year. The

OTHER STANDOUT FEATURES OF THE BLACKLINE INCLUDE:

custom kit they created for the BLACKLINE provides the prototype with a turn-by-turn GPS navigation system, with integrated LED headlights, that’s controlled by a custom iOS app, as well as a USB charging port powered by the front wheel. The blinking blue lights on each handlebar signal turns while providing additional visibility for riders at night. The bike can also track and locate itself via GPS. Sealed SRAM three-speed hub The centerpiece of the team’s no-maintenance philosophy, the special SRAM three-speed kick-back hub was originally designed by the Chicago-based company to be durable enough for rural African roads. The self-contained hub required no shifters— with the pedal actuated gear shifts, bikers simply pedal back to shift up—and along with the carbon belt drive, results in a drive train with fewer exposed parts that stands up much better to weather extremes. Flexible mounting system Instead of creating a front or rear rack, Minimal gave riders both. The curved front basket—which includes a clip underneath to store a U-lock and bungee ties—and the back rack both sport truss patterns. Screw-in metal discs replace the detachable mounts when they’re not in use. Two custom panniers, created by Portland company Terrazign, have retractable straps that turn the bags into waterproof messenger bags for easy carrying. A double-leg kickstand facilitates loading and unloading easy.

Slate Glass Tile

Smooth Glass Tile

Textured Glass Tile

Tesla

By now you’ve probably heard how we here at Tesla have completely changed the scape of the automobile industry; but we have news, we’re only just getting started. The sun is the ultimate sustainable power source and until now solar power has commonly been seen as a distant, almost futuristic idea reserved for commercial properties. We’d like to introduce you to the Tesla home powered by Powerwall 2 and our new Solar Roof.

Powerwall

The new Powerwall, Powerwall 2, takes our already efficient Powerwall and doubles the energy of the first generation battery. Powerwall 2 is a battery designed for both homes and small businesses that stores the immense energy of the sun to deliver clean and reliable electricity regardless of whether the sun is shining or not. Powerwall 2 is a touch-safe and durable design that allows you to stay connected 24/7.

Solar Powered Roof

The Solar Roof is the latest innovation powered by Tesla. The power of the sun is almost unbelievable and we were amazed to learn that in just one hour, the sun supplies enough energy to supply our planet’s energy needs for an entire year. Still not convinced? We’ve designed the most innovative and sustainable roof that harnesses this free energy source through rooftop solar tiles turning the sunlight into electricity that can be instantly used or stored in a Powerwall 2 battery. Tesla’s Solar Roof is not only a powerful and renewable energy, but it is affordable, sleek, sexy and most of all, sustainable. Invisible from the street, Tesla’s solar tiles soak in the sunshiny goodness and turn it into an infallible source of pure energy.

THE BLACKLINE BIKE _ As if bikes weren’t already a sustainable means of transportation, we’d like to introduce to you The Blackline Bike. Strong in structure, strong in spirit, The Blackline Bike is freedom on wheels that’ll take you anywhere your heart (or feet) can peddle. Chicago’s iconic elevated train lines, the ‘L’, may take you from station to station, but we’ve designed and created the ultimate bike to get everywhere in between. Freedom. Innovative. Versatile. Smart/Intelligent. Rugged. Perfect.

TESLA’S SOLAR PANEL ROOF: SOLAR GLASS TILES ARE THE NEW SOLAR SHINGLES

BY // LUKE RICHARDSON

f you’ve found it difficult to stay up to date on the future of

Building-Integrated Photovoltaics vs. Building-Applied

Tesla Motors and SolarCity in recent weeks, you are not alone.

Photovoltaics: What Are They?

Numerous industries (solar, electric vehicles, and ridesharing, to

Even before the latest Musk upheaval, building integrated

name a few) worldwide are starting to feel the impact of a merger

photovoltaic (BIPV) technology has been garnering attention

that could significantly alter growth plans for manufacturers and

as part of solar’s gradual expansion into broader markets like

executives across the globe. Now the concept of an integrated solar

sustainable roofing design and green building.

glass shingle – the Tesla solar tile – is on everyone’s mind. A building in Spain with a side solar facade. This type of solar We had already heard about Tesla’s plans for total clean energy

building is known as BAPV where the solar module is retrofitted

integration – a one step carbon reduction process that involves

rather than included in the original construction.

pairing solar panels with your Tesla electric vehicle. Now for the latest: thanks to a surprise appearance of Chairman Elon Musk

Simply put, BIPV replaces materials of the building envelope with

in SolarCity’s 2nd quarter earnings call that lead to a highly

photovoltaics. This is in contrast with traditional rooftop solar

anticipated Tesla solar roofing product launch at the end of

installations, which entails attaching a PV module to a building

October, we’ve now seen the future of PV roofing and the future

separately. The goal of BIPV is to integrate installation as part of

of Tesla. One thing is certain: building integrated photovoltaics

a construction project, rather than a separate post-construction

(BIPV) are going to be a part of Tesla Motors – or should we say

addition. In theory, this would result in significant savings by

Tesla Energy’s – future.

reducing labor and installation costs and eliminating the need for separate racking equipment. With BIPV, solar becomes an efficient building material rather than a luxury add-on.

slate glass tile

smooth glass tile

TECHNOLOGY

Often confused with BIPV is building-applied photovoltaics, or

later he unveiled the tangible roofing product, using a crowded,

BAPV, which refers to solar that is retroactively integrated into a

suburban event in California to demonstrate that his panel design

building. While BAPV is much more common than BIPV in today’s

is so seamlessly integrated that an entire audience of press needed

day and age, BIPV is truly the ideal scenario for cost efficiency –

to be told the house they were looking at even had solar installed.

hence why Elon Musk named it Tesla’s next move. Tesla Solar Glass Tile and Roofing Product Materials The Tesla/SolarCity Solar Panel Roof:

Much of what we had expected for the roof product is what we got

What You Need to Know

on October 28 – the only surprise was the appearance and the use

A view of Dow Powerhouse solar roof shingles on a U.S. home.

of a supposedly unbreakable glass apparatus. With the SolarCity’s

Dow cancelled their solar shingles product line this past June.

acquisition expected post November 17’s big merger decision, Tesla

Many stakeholders had agreed that solar installation needed to be

is starting to leverage the new resources available to them. Other

rebranded as an aesthetic and technical improvement that could

than SolarCity’s massive installer workforce – which will be doing

be a part of a home renovation rather than a hefty module that is

more building and less installing in the future – the asset most

nailed onto your rooftop. That sentiment was punctuated in Elon

important to Musk’s solar glass roof will be Panasonic’s impressive

Musk’s late October launch of Tesla’s new roofing product which

panel efficiency and the durability of the tiles and shingles being

will aim to bring solar further into the mainstream by removing

made. Musk demonstrated in the launch the strength of his new

any sort of visual setbacks homeowners may fear. “I think there’s

roofing product, testing heavy weights on three common roofing

quite a radical difference between having solar panels on your

shingles as well as his own. Sure enough, the Tesla roof was the

roof that actually make your house look better versus ones that do

only one that could withstand the weight and pressure. “It’s made

not, I think it’s going to be a night-and-day difference,” said Musk

of quartz” explained Musk. “It has a quasi-infinite lifetime.”

in a statement before the product’s official launch. Two months

textured glass tile

103 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

tuscan glass tile

This shingle and roof durability will be a huge selling point for

integration rather than an addition where a homeowner chooses

homeowners who are looking for more value added than just the

what fits their aesthetic preference.

benefits of a clean energy roof type. In a sense, Tesla wants to make inroads into both the solar industry and roofing industry

Solar Roofs vs. Solar Shingles vs. Solar Glass

and offer competitive advantages in both. Solar panel warranties

Though it might keep Musk up at night, Tesla will not be the first

are often a huge selling point for homeowners who are concerned

company to launch a solar roof product. Development of solar roof

about the longtime production value and durability of their

tiles and solar shingles (most famously by Dow) has been evolving

solar panel systems. Musk seems on a mission to put those

for many years, and a number of companies have taken a stab

concerns to bed and reach a broader audience than solar

at designing a versatile, subtle rooftop solar medium that

power ever could before.

could be considered a genuine roofing material rather than a module add-on.

The four roofing types unveiled at Tesla’s solar roof launch: Tuscan Glass Tile, Slate Glass Tile, Textured Glass Tile), Smooth Glass Tile.

According to New York Installer Suntegra, three out of four

The new roof will be offered in four model designs: Tuscan glass

homeowners would prefer an integrated solar system. The

tile, slate glass tile, textured glass tile and smooth glass tile. This

common types of BIPV to date are the following:

versatility and choice for homeowners will certainly change the

Semi-transparent solar glazing that can replace windows

consumer experience of “going solar.” Musk’s BIPV innovation

and skylights

can be described with two improvements that both are focused around choice:

• Solar cell membranes that can be integrated into a roofing

Going solar no longer requires any perceived drawback in the

• Solar shingles made with flexible thin film cells, placed above

design (what Tesla has mirrored with solar roof glass) appearance of large panels on your roof – homeowners can make solar as a roof styling improvement if they so choose. Solar can now be fully integrated and customized to match the texture and appearance of your roof – it can now be thought of as an

a roof’s dew point • Solar facades for sun-facing sides of buildings (typically only used for BAPV)

TECHNOLOGY

For Musk, the real innovation is the production of a solar system

grounded in revenue, but his entrepreneurial vision has its

that truly is considered a roof model. While the four forms of BIPV

limits. The Tesla/SolarCity solar roof could succeed, but it will

(listed above) have been around for some time, the concept of a

unequivocally shoulder great adversity.

completely solar roof has not yet been successfully brought to market. What’s standing in Musk’s way? The real solar efficiency

New BIPV, More Innovation, Same Musk

of these Tesla glass shingles and the price are two major factors

At the end of the day, solar roofs are not going to be a seamless

that were only ambiguously addressed by Musk in the launch.

product integration for Tesla. And yet, the concept certainly has the feel of the Tesla brand. Many had been questioning how Musk

Cost is a enormous grey area for this new product – Tesla hasn’t

could possibly give solar panels the exquisite Tesla feel when they

made any pricing information available to date. With a company

usually stick out, often contrasting with a roof’s design. The solar

like Tesla, it will be hard to even venture a guess for what these

roof and the sleek glass roof tiles appear to be just the answer

glorious glass roofs will cost. After all, they’re a premium product

Musk was seeking for Tesla’s entrance into the solar industry.

made of quartz and are virtually unbreakable – it’s possible that Tesla’s solar roof will be a solar option for the top 1-5% and not

Tesla and its esteemed chairman have a long way to go to affirm

the majority of prospective homeowners.

their status as a real player in both the solar PV and green roofing and how they will effectively absorb the financial turmoil of

Musk briefly touched on this in the product release when he

SolarCity are two big hurdles for the clean energy behemoth. But

mentioned that the glass material shielding the solar cell results

for now, Musk has done his job. The world’s interest is piqued and

in a very minimal efficiency drop for the photovoltaic shingle. But

millions of homeowners are already anxiously anticipating Tesla

in an industry where a new record for PV efficiency is announced

Energy’s new solar product coming to market in 2017. For those

almost every month and the cost of solar is directly tied to how

solar shoppers who are wondering what a rooftop solar installation

well a solar panel produces electricity, the real numbers on what

would cost them today, check out our Solar Calculator to get a free

this glass shingle can achieve will be crucial. Musk’s enthusiasm

personalized estimate.

is contagious and he certainly has a history of audacious ventures

105 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

industries. How they will make this roof concept cost-competitive Another deciding factor for the roof product’s success is efficiency.

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LIFESTYLE

www.apple.com/environment

A DATA DRIVEN GREEN THUMB

Using variable data such as soil conditions, insect population/infestation, real-time weather conditions, and projected weather forecasts, GRO is your personal landscaper however, you’ll have to get your hands a little dirty, but the secret to a green thumb isn’t learned overnight… until now. Get the GRO app and transform your dehydrated, barren wasteland of a garden into your very own Eden.

ART & DESIGN The idea of sustainability has begun to spread across all aspects of our modern world and has become an art form in itself amongst artists, designers, and architects. From ethically sourced materials, to art that is aesthetically appealing and brings about a call to action for a sustainable society, to innovative residential developments, the world of art and design has embraced the reality that sustainability can, and should, be incorporated in any medium for a richer, more substantial end result.

Free night in a designer cabin, anyone? The Tubakuba is a Scandinavian cottage with a front door that’s like crawling through a black hole. From the foot of the snowy, picturesque massif

According to Folgerø, the Tubakuba was designed

that residents of Bergen, Norway, call the Seven

to be a fun environment for kids. “The entrance

Mountains, the Tubakuba looks like any number

is shaped like the mouth of a tuba to experiment

of modernly designed rural cabins. It’s a small cube

with wood as a material, to give children a place to

of wood and glass, perched semi-precipitously upon

play even if the hut is closed, and to force adults to

a rocky incline: the sort of retreat that any writer

crouch to get in, even if kids don’t have to,” Folgerø

would give his eyeteeth to call home. But it’s when

tells me. There’s also a pleasing spatial element to

you approach the Tubakuba from the back that the

the design, in which visitors who claustrophobically

cabin truly takes your breath away: it’s got an entry

crawl through a tiny hole emerge on the other side

portal that looks like a hole torn in space-time.

to a tremendous, wide-open alpine view.

Designed as part of a workshop at the Bergen School

An off-the-grid hotel room, the Tubakuba is

of Architecture led by Espen Folgerø of OPA Form

available to stay at nightly, or for visitors to explore

Architects, the Tubakuba’s name reflects its shape:

during the day if it isn’t otherwise in use. It’s free of

The tuba-like entrance is made of curved shavings

charge to rent, but it is only for families with small

of pine, and skinned with untreated larch, which

children. You have to meet up personally at the

will turn gray over time.

Parks and Recreation office for the municipality of Bergen to ask for the key. For parents and kids alike,

It’s a tiny, 150-square-foot cube of a cabin accessed through a tuba-like horn. In material, the Tubakuba is mostly made up of larch that has been treated with a 19th-century process called Shou Sugi Ban, which burns the wood to help protect it from weather and decay.

it looks to be a beautiful place to spend the night.

ART & DESIGN

“

It gives children a place to play even if the hut is closed, adults have to crouch while children don’t, but most importantly it creates a spatial sequence where you enter a tiny hole and come out on the other side to

”

-The project leader and architect Espen FolgerÃ

115 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

a spectacular view.

Dirty

Done

Right

ART & DESIGN

LUXURIOUS SUSTAINABLE LIVING L.A.’s Hanover Olympic is the epitome of sustainable living with style, class, and sophistication. BY // MARKETWIRED

anover Company opened the doors to its newest LA property, Hanover Olympic,

April 8th. This property is unique to the company as it will lease out 20 apartment homes with Eco-Green finishes. Olympic’s Eco-Green community is the first of its kind for Hanover who has properties across the country already featuring the environmentally conscious LEED certification. This certification is a symbol that a property has made the conscious decision to make a property more sustainable with energy saving features benefiting water, energy conservation, and more. While the new Olympic property is LEED registered, the most notable environmentally friendly features are the 20 apartments powered by rooftop solar panels. These living spaces are equipped with Nest thermostats, occupancy sensors, an iPad to monitor energy consumption, and energy efficient finishes. The new eco features are designed for residents the luxuries and comfort that come with living in downtown LA. This property is on the forefront of buildings being built with the environment in mind. The towards environmentally friendly commercial and residential buildings. Efficiency standards for new buildings took effect on new construction January 1st, 2014 and continues to keep California as the nation’s leader in energy efficient structures. These standards looks to increase energy savings by 25% for homes and 30% for commercial buildings.

119 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

state of California has consistently led the way

South Olive Street.

Hanover Olympic is located in Downtown L.A. at 936

wanting to live a more green life without sacrificing

About Hanover Company: Hanover Company is a national property management company who specializes in high quality multi-family residential properties across the nation. It stands among the most active private real estate companies and boasts an awardwinning portfolio of residential projects. Hanover Company maintains a wide variety of residential properties including suburban, mid-rise, and high-rise. The company was founded in 1982 and operates out of Houston Texas.

Thinking

ART & DESIGN

Outside Using shipping containers to build homes in a more sustainable fashion.

BY // ADAM WILLIAMS

verage home prices have risen to about $300,000 these past few years. While the location of the homes may have significant impact on the price

of the home, the house itself costs a lot of money, a lot more than what most people can afford. This is why many people are choosing alternative ways to live. Modern urban ingenuity allowed us to create and make use of living spaces that would have been considered absurd at any other point in time. The deteriorating economy, rising levels of pollution and rapid increase in population forced people to consider more eco-friendlier ways. The newest solution for living spaces? Shipping containers. People are building actual homes from these containers. It’s

The

called cargo container architecture. It’s super cheap, compact and eco-friendly. Why Shipping Containers? Shipping containers typically cost only $1800 – $5000 (some as little as $800) depending on their size. They are readily available for purchase as containers that are shipped to their final destinations are usually too expensive to ship back. These containers are also eco-friendly, as they are re-purposed into homes instead of being melted down when they are scrapped or shipped back empty. Containers are also “virtually indestructible” . Typical homes in the U.S. seem like they are made of paper, they can’t handle extreme climate conditions. harsh climate conditions, and being handled by cranes. Containers can also be easily stacked to form multi-story homes. These sturdy houses can be welded together and built in a very short time, and handle just about anything that is thrown at them. Just like with any other irregular structures, container homes do have some disadvantages, so be sure to do some research. Here’s some modern container homes that you can drool over.

123 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

Box

Containers, on the other hand, are tough. They are build to handle heavy loads,

ART & DESIGN Local college students relaxing in the CPH Shelter house located in Copenhagen, Denmark.

CPH Containers Copenhagen’s CPH Containers aims to create

garden can be used for growing food or other

low-cost container-based student homes for

plants. The walls and floor are clad in sustainably-

installation on underdeveloped land. Working

forested Swedish pine, while fire-retardant

with Vandkunsten Architects’ Søren Nielsen,

fiber boards are installed in the ceiling. Large

the firm has developed a container home with

operable windows are also cut into the container.

which it plans to construct its first “student village” in Copenhagen later this year.

CPH Containers has received a preliminary thumbs-up from the Copenhagen municipal

The prototype container home, dubbed CPH

council and hopes to begin constructing the first

Shelter, is made from a 40-ft recycled shipping

student village later this year. Like existing local

container, and features an additional two-floor

structure Made To Be Moved, the idea is that

polycarbonate structure. This latter area serves as

the student village can simply be dismantled

a winter garden and glows like a lantern at night.

and moved to another location if required.

The container home’s interior comprises a lounge/ a bathroom with shower and toilet. The winter

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dining area, kitchen, bedroom with daybed, and

Local college students relaxing in CPH Shelter in Copenhagen, Denmark.

ART & DESIGN

“Our plan is to build 2000 student housing units before 2019,” CPH Containers says. “Each village will have approximately 300-400 units. We’ve been working very hard on a political level to free up empty space in Copenhagen.” “The price for rooms will vary. Whether it’s a commercial investor, who wants a profit margin, or a public housing company, who doesn’t need profitability. In the latter case a room will cost about US$300 a month, in the first case about $500 a month.” The firm is seeking volunteers to get in touch and help it realize its vision, while future plans include rolling out the idea throughout Denmark and abroad.

Our plan is to build 2000 student housing

Container home interior in CPH Village. All items shown are sustainable.

127 // MÅNGATA // Fall 2016

units before 2019.

A SECURE

HOME

Natural Impression: A Typographic Experiment BY // SHAMIS MCGILLIN

atural Impression is a ‘happening’ involving experimental typography in urban spaces. The project was created by Julian

Jones-Pittman, Tisha Boonyawatana, Satsuki Atsumi and Hai Pham. Julian explains: “A Happening is a performance, event or situation that is intended to be an art piece. The interaction between the action taking place and the viewers is part of the whole experience of the Happening. A Happening that relates to Graphic Design may communicate a visual message where the viewers have the power and freedom to reinterpret it to their own meaning. To inform, persuade, organize, stimulate, locate, identify, attract attention and to provide visual pleasure. Graphic designers are the link between the client and the audience. Essentially serving as translators. The typical nature of a designer is often described as pedantic, perfectionists, and very likely obsessive. Our intent is to demonstrate to the audience what designers are capable of: taking the meticulous task of organizing materials of which are uncontrollable and organic. Forms emerged out of loose materials found on the grounds of the urban landscape. Excess plant materials are arranged into letters or shapes to create a design, word, or message of expression to passersby.”

131 // MÃ&#x2026;NGATA // Fall 2016

ART & DESIGN

TĂ&#x2026;PPED BIRCH WATER

BY // RICHARD BAIRD

apped is an organic birch water, drawn straight from trees growing in

Although birch water maybe a new product, the color palette draws on

Finland, and available in Bilberry & Lingonberry, Apple & Root Ginger and

the conventions established by other categories. Perception of freshness

unflavored varieties in the UK from Whole Foods Market, Planet Organic and

(white), energy, modernity (neons) and youth (the tagging of saplings) are

online. Birch water is a traditional spring time drink and medicinal ingredient

all successfully touched upon. This is reassuring in its familiarity but also

in Finland, tapped from birch trees which filter ground water up through their

compelling in its differences. A low-carbon, fully recyclable, and a mostly

roots and trunk acquiring minerals, vitamins and manganese, an antioxidant,

renewable structural design of 75% wood-based paperboard, its cylindrical

in the process.

shape and straw does a good job of making a connection with trees, both visually and in material composition, while an uncoated tactile surface

Tapped worked with UK based graphic design studio Horse to develop a brand

texture makes the most of its associations with craft, small-scale, low-

identity and package design that would communicate the Nordic and birch tree

volume products and an environmentally conscientiousness positioning.

origin of the water, distinguish it from other waters, be compelling to a market unfamiliar with the product and also be environmentally conscientious.

The waterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s origin is effectively conveyed through the diacritic above the A and the line across the D in the logotype, implicitly through a Scandinavian

Horse manage to find a balance between communicative clarity, distinctive

simplicity and explicitly using concise language and a very detailed but

aesthetic and simplicity by leveraging the unique horizontal lines of birch tree

slightly busy back-of-pack. It is worth noting that the typographical flourishes

bark and effectively translating this into a simple and recognizable graphic

are playful visual cues rather than linguistically or literary accurate, which

asset, tied to the unique quality of the product.

is fine for the market and the playful tone of the brand. It is a long way from what might be considered or confused with an authentic Finnish brand.

From a distance, packaging remains impactful through the high contrast of a bright white surface and the neon spot colors of the labels, which were inspired

The logo is rich in communicative intention, aesthetically simple yet

by the tagging of young saplings.

distinctive. It makes a reference to surface and subsurface layers, processâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;

Photo Credit // Tapped Trees

with the tree doubling as an upwards arrowâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and is said to reference Norse iconography. Although perhaps not as obvious and as literal as the packaging, the logo is certainly well-founded, contemporary in its geometric monolinear rendering, and thoughtful in its ideation. The geometric and reductive qualities of the logo also runs throughout the characters of Brandon Grotesque. It is a solid and well-drawn typeface. Its rounded corners give it a personable quality and although taking its inspirations from the past is thoroughly current. It is, however, cropping up more frequently, particularly within UK packaging projects that share similar consumer groups, Photo Credit // Tapped Trees

and within digital products. It is certainly not widespread, and does secure a modernity, but is potentially undermined by an increasing saturation. Brand identity effectively reaches across every aspect of the project, from structure and material choice, to naming to type to color. These feel wellresolved, distinctive and well-founded, and communicatively successful in the connections made between product, its origin, and brand values whilst also keeping it well away from being perceived as gimmicky.

A NUTRITIOUS INTERVENTION. #GONAKED

WWW.LUSHUSA.COM

CREDITS EDITORIALS BLACKLINE Article: James Janega Photos: MINIMAL COLOR RUSH Article: Nike, Inc. Photos: Nike, Inc., Lukas Gojda, Giacomo Jag Czajkowski EKN FOOTWEAR Photos: Hannah Miles, Marek Bäuerlein Article: Mr. Bailey FASHION REVOLUTION Photos: Heather Knight, Ceros, Inc. Article: Dana Geffner GOOGLE GREEN Article: static.googleusercontent.com Photos: static.googleusercontent.com HOW BAMBOO WILL CHANGE THE WORLD Article: Sustainable Materials Photos: BambúRain LARA MILLER Article: Lara Miller Photos: pinterest.com LET’S HAVE A TOAST TO SUSTAINABILITY Article: Jenn Orgolini Photos: New Belgium Brewing Co. LUSH Article: Dinushi Dias Photos: Cassie Craven

LUXURIOUS SUSTAINABLE LIVING Article: Marketwired Photos: Hanover Olympic

THINKING OUTSIDE THE BOX Article: Adam Williams Photos: CPH Containers, Benjamin Garcia Saxe

NATURAL HAPPENINGS Article: Shamis Mchillin Photos: Tisha Boonyawatana, Satsuki Atsumi, Julian Jones-Pittman, Hai Pham

TUBAKUBA MOUNTAIN HUB/CABIN Article: thelocal.no Photos: Gunnar Sørås, tubakuba.tumblr.com, archdaily.com

PATAGONIA Article: GearJunkie.com Photos: Brandon Sharpe, Pexels, Getty

WORKING BIKES Article: Kevin Warwick Photos: Jake Brusha

RAVEN + LILY Article: Emily Starbuck Crone Photos: citizenbrooklyn.com, btl.bayloralumniassociation.com, ravenandlily.com, youwe.org

FOUR YEARS, ONE JAR– ZERO WASTE Article: Susie East Photos: blogtalkradio.com

SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT GOALS Article: un.org Photos: un.org TAPPED BIRCH WATER Article: Richard Baird Photos: Tapped Trees TARGET Article: Beth Wright Photos: Lupe Diaz TESLA Article: Luke Richardson Photos: tesla.com, news.energysage.com

ADVERTISEMENTS ALTERNATIVE APPAREL Photos: Pexels APPLE Photos: Qeaqle LLC ASOS Photos: Pexels BAMBECO Photos: Place-To BLACKLINE Photos: MINIMAL BURT’S BEES Photos: walmart.com, Wikipedia

COTTON Photos: Lakesha Howard, Emily Cooper

NEW BELGIUM BREWING CO. Photos: New Belgium Brewing Co., Paul Summers

EKN FOOTWEAR Photos: Ekn Footwear, Lee Yiu Tung

NIKE Photos: Nike, Inc.

GRO APP Illustration: feanne.com

PATAGONIA Photos: Brandon Sharpe

HARVEY’S Photos: Amanda Straka

TESLA Photos: tesla.com

LUSH Photos: Maggie O’Hara

WE-WOOD Photos: Frank Rios

NEST Photos: nest.com/press

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