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November 3rd – November 16th
november 3rd 2011
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Empty For the Nonce
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croatia - a fortnight in revew
November 3rd – November 16th
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content
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introductory epistle
Empty for the Nonce
p.5
fortnightly news
The Economy
p.6
Of General Interest
p.7
fortnightly feature
Many Faces of Political Shame
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p.8
feature interview
H21 – Boldly Going Where No Croat Has Gone Before
p.12
in perspective
The European Stage This Fortnight
p.14
the economy
Labour Market in the Region: What Have the (un)Employed Got to Say
p.16
The Official Gazette: A Quaint Monopoly
p.17
18 editorial
A Terrorist Attack in Sarajevo – the 21st Century Version
p.18
industry profile
Cliff Rames: The Champion of Croatian Wines
p.20
lifestyle
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Sharing the Wine Love: An American Sommelier in Croatia with a Mission to Quench Your Thirst
p.24
culture
The Book That Changed the World
p.26
good stuff
St. Martin
p.28
to do list 30
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November 3rd – November 16th
introductory epistle
Empty For the Nonce EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Igor Dakić igor.dakic@business2culture.com EXECUTIVE EDITOR
Alana Riksheim alana.riksheim@business2culture.com ART DIRECTOR
Steve Cinik steve.cinik@business2culture.com GRAPHIC EDITOR
Ivor Vinski ivorvinski@gmail.com JOURNALISTS
Dylan Alexander Lynn Gunter James Church CONTRIBUTORS IN THIS ISSUE
Marko Oltean Cliff Rames April Terzewski Richard Major Jutta Henner Janet Berković PHOTOGRAPHY
B2c Photo, Shutterstock, IStock, Wiki Commons PRINTER
Tiskara Radin Gospodarska 9, Sveta Nedelja
DIRECTOR
Igor Dakić igor.dakic@business2culture.com SALES AND MARKETING
Filip Tomašević filip@business2culture.com SUBSCRIPTION
subscription@business2culture.com tel/fax +385 (0)1 46 77 165 PUBLISHER
Posao za kulturu d.o.o. Ksaver 215, 10000 Zagreb tel/fax +385 (0)1 46 77 165 OIB 69072172349
It is not as coincidence that this issue’s cover resembles greatly the last issue’s. Only, instead of a provocative illustration, we have a photograph. Justly so. This parliamentary assembly’s circus is over, and in a month’s time we’ll have – by the looks of it (the pre-election polls) – a significantly different set-up in the Croatian Sabor. And it has, as most of you already know, been a truly eventful last fortnight in the Parliament. What with the stripping of SDP’s Željko Jovanović of his immunity, what with curi- Sarkozy aside, the Eurozone has found itself, ously achieved quorums and last-minute leg- this time round, on some truly shaky ground, islation, it was a kind of run-and-gun lead-up and as we all know, if there is no Eurozone, to the official start of the election campaign. I there is no EU. And the point here is that Pashall leave all the indignation and further de- pandreou’s decision to allow a referendum in Greece is possibly the best illustration of the tails for the feature article. And there’s the continuing tribulation of practices of our domestic politicians, pracformer PM Sanader. Sanader, for all his faults tices we have been tirading against in every and conceits, at least seems to understand the single issue of this newspaper: populist-soold “honour among thieves” trope. Beholding cialist policies which result in unsustainable the spectacle of his miscarried arraignment acquired rights, in combination with highI could not escape from the impression that ly clientelist and venal economies dominatthe “honest” thief has been supplanted by his ed by semi-criminal syndicates (mind, we did own sycophants – a truly egregious scenario, not use the word “unions” on purpose), cansomething along the lines of Trotsky’s fate. In- not but run a country into the ground. Then deed, the whole affair has all the semblance of again, we will probably get rid of our own a text-book left wing revolution, which by def- “Greek populists” in a mere month’s time. All inition consumes its most prodigious children, the polls concur: HDZ will lose, and the only only in this instance the unholy act appears to question is by what kind of margin. have occurred in the centre-right of the polit- And, on the final note, before we turn to wine ical spectrum. Departure of Ivo Sanader from (“Martinje” is just round the corner, after all), active politics has certainly left a void in our a piece on the labour market – all those quite domestic political landscape, a void nobody illuminating percentages that came as a result of surveys conducted by the web-portal Mojseems to be able to fill, at least for the nonce. Reflecting partly on this void, in our feature Posao – will perhaps help us to understand a interview Nataša Srdoč of H21 also calls for bit more closely the sentiments of those seeka re-examination of Croatia’s EU Treaty, but ing employment in a perverse economy in with what is going on in Greece at the mo- which, exactly like in Greece, average salaries ment there may well be no need to re-ex- in the public sector are considerably higher amine anything. All attempts of Merkel and than those in the private sector.
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fortnightly news - the economy
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November 3rd – November 16th
fortnightly news - of general interest
Hypo Bank Drops Yacht Leasing Business
18-Km Section of the Istrian Y Motorway Opened
Sanader’s Detention Extended, Arraignment Postponed
Hypo Group Alpe Adria (HGAA) has decided to step back from its nautical leasing operations in the region of Southeast Europe in an effort to restore its financial solidity. Presently the bank has 320 sailing vessels, which represents a reduction from the 700 that were registered in 2008. PricewaterhouseCoopers had claimed in 2009 that some 400 HGAA ships had been stolen; however, a spokesman for the bank has recently pinpointed this figure at just eight. According to HGAA, the recent decision was made in light of the fact that nautical leasing has never been a core business for the bank in this region.
On Saturday, October 29th, PM Jadranka Kosor was on hand for the inauguration of the new 18-kilometre dual carriageway connecting Kanfanar and Rogovici. The upgrading of the Istrian motorway in this section cost 72 million Euros and represents but the first stage in the planned works on the motorway. County Prefect Ivan Jakovčić thanked the government for its cooperation and noted that the renovated Istrian Y had raised the quality of life and the tourism competitiveness of the region. According to Jakovčić’s estimates, one can now arrive in Austria in an hour, in Italy in 40 minutes, and in Slovenia in half an hour.
The Zagreb County Court ruled on October 18th to extend the detention of former PM Ivo Sanader by another two months. Presiding judge Krešimir Devčić said that given that Sanader is suspected in cases of fraud involving over 100 million Kuna (13.4 million Euros), the offer of 12.4 million Kuna (1.7 million Euros) bail would be dismissed. Sanader was also considered at flight risk if freed. In the event that the Zagreb County Court had approved Sanader’s request for bail, it would have been the largest such sum yet posted in Croatia. Because Sanader has had health difficulties with his heart of late, his arraignment hearing has been postponed until November 3rd.
Mediteranska Plovidba Shipping To File For Bankruptcy The managing board of the Mediteranska Plovidba shipping company, based on the island of Korčula and specialising in the transport of frozen cargo, gave the Zagreb Stock Exchange notice that its last oceangoing vessel had been sold at auction in Rotterdam and that the company would be filing for bankruptcy in the coming days. According to media reports, the company’s last ship, Atlantik Frigo, was purchased by a Dutch broker. Having failed to secure the 400,000 Euros necessary for the salaries of seamen and suppliers, Mediteranska Plovidba was forced to surrender its ship, whereupon a Rotterdam court ordered its sale. All attempted agreements with creditors and lenders have ended unsuccessfully for the company, and this appears to be another in a long line defeats of Croatian manufacturing companies.
Proposed INA Bill Rejected by the European Commission On October 26th the European Commission announced that a proposed Amendment to the INA Privatisation Act, per whose terms no other entity but the Croatian government could hold more than a 49 percent stake in the oil and gas company, was not in line with EU legislation. A spokesperson for the Enlargement Commission “welcomed the fact that the Croatian authorities had consulted the Commission before the passage of the bill”, but communicated the EC’s expectations that Croatian authorities abandon proposed legislation of this type.
Citizens’ Association “Franak” Files Suit with the Commercial Court A group of concerned citizens who banded together as the association “Franak”, following the steady appreciation of the Swiss currency of late, filed a class action lawsuit with the Comercial Court in Zagreb against 7 banks (Erste Bank, Hypo Alpe Adria Bank, OTP Bank, Privredna Banka Zagreb, Societé Générale-Splitska Banka, Zagrebačka Banka and Volksbank) “in order to protect the rights of 125,000 debtors” with loans pegged to the Franc. Franak has asked for a limited application of the foreign currency clause and that a reference value for the change in interest be defined.
HNB Governor Warns of “No Recovery Without Reform” Željko Rohatinski, governor of the Croatian National Bank (HNB), cautioned that immediate economic reforms are necessary and that further delays could have negative repercussions on Croatia’s path to recovery. “Next year,” Rohatinski said at a conference of the Zagreb Stock Exchange last Friday in Rovinj, “with moderate optimism, will be rather similar to 2011 in terms of economic performance. It is important, however, whether 2012 will see the beginning of the formation of sound grounds for further growth and development, as the current inertia has seriously delayed that process...”
American-Owned Steel Mill in Sisak to Begin Layoffs
Conference of the Croatian Exporters Association On Monday, October 24th, leading business people and political representatives gathered to discuss the export-oriented sectors of the Croatian economy at a Zagreb conference held by the Croatian Exporters Association. President Josipović’s economic advisor Boris Cota warned that EU entry alone will not be sufficient to ensure positive results in terms of Croatia’s export competitiveness. The association’s president, Darinko Bago, proposed a comprehensive analysis of the strengths and weaknesses of Croatia’s present foreign trade, so as to better prepare Croatian exporters in advance of EU accession.
The management board of the Americanowned CMC Željezara Sisak announced this month that, due to profitability concerns, it would either be selling the mill or suspending production sometime by the end of 2011. CMC will begin dismissing members of its 1,070-strong workforce this week, in accordance with their time with the company. Severance pay is set at 3,000 Kuna (402 Euros) per year of work. According to Predrag Abramović, a representative of the worker’s union quoted in the daily Večernji list, the mill’s employees have not yet been notified about any potential buyers or interested parties.
Split Steel Mill Bought At Public Auction The steel mill Željezara Split, at which production has been halted for the last two years due to losses, was sold at public auction last week to Peter Pripuz, the so-called Croatian “King of Waste,” for the sum of 10.3 million Euros. Another bidder, the company FE-Magnetid, was denied the right to participate in the auction; in the opinion of Judge Ivana Bašić, FE-Magnetid’s bank guarantee was legally valid, but its content did not correspond to the conditions of the sale.
De-Mining of Krka National Park Secured The authorities of the Krka National Park signed an agreement with the Croatia Without Mines Foundation at the end of last week, pledging that the park would be mine-free by May of next year. According to the regional daily Slobodna dalmacija, some 204,417 square metres is to be de-mined in the park by the next tourist season. Experts believe that about 93,000 mines have yet to be unearthed in Croatia.
Students Not Going Anywhere Croatian Parliament Dissolved in Anticipation of December Elections It’s a matter of procedural formality, but the Sabor adopted a decision on the 28th to dissolve the Sixth Parliament of the Republic of Croatia. President Ivo Josipović will now formally call elections for the new parliament, which has been set by the ruling coalition for December 4th. Under the Croatian Constitution, deputies are elected to the Sabor for a period of four years and elections are held within 60 days from the expiry of the parliament’s term or its dissolution.
Gunman Fires Shots at the US Embassy in Sarajevo On Friday, October 28th, it was reported that a gunman fired off shots from an assault rifle at the US embassy building in Sarajevo, wounding at least one policeman. Bosnian television reports identified the gunman as Mevlid Jašarević, a 23-year-old Muslim and Serbian citizen from the town of Novi Pazar. Jašarević is reputedly a member of the fundamentalist Wahhabi sect of Islam. After a 30-minute standoff, Jašarević was wounded by a sniper’s shot to the leg and will be treated at a local hospital before being taken into custody. In a public statement to the media, BiH Federation President Bakir Izetbegović said, “I firmly condemn the terrorist attack on the US embassy in Bosnia-Herzegovina.”
According to the Eurostudent survey, conducted in 25 countries across the continent, Croatia was at the very bottom of the pile when it came to student mobility in the academic year 2009/2010. Only 2% of student respondents in Croatia said they had studied abroad, compared to the European average of 8%. Cost has traditionally been the greatest obstacle for students, says the Institute for the Development of Education. 74% of those young Croatians who did manage to study abroad indicated that they were financially supported by their families. Since last year’s Eurostudent survey, Croatia has joined the Erasmus EU programme, which is expected to aid more than 1,100 students this academic year and more than 1,300 students in 2012-2013 in pursuing educational exchange programmes outside of Croatia.
Croatia’s Champion Wins Serge Lang Trophy for “Skier of the Year” The Croatian Alpine skier Ivica Kostelić was awarded the Serge Lang Trophy and the title “Skier of the Year” in Sölden, Austria, on October 27th. This was the first time Kostelić took home the prize, although in 2001, the Serge Lang Trophy went to Kostelić’s sister, Janica. This year Kostelić beat out Maria Riesch, Didier Cuche and Christof Innerhofer for the honour. The award, which dates back to 1963, is give by the International Association of Ski Journalists.
Serbian Counter-Response to Genocide Suit Expected on November 4th According to the Belgrade daily Večernje novosti, Serbia will submit its formal reply – as part of the genocide lawsuits that Serbia and Croatia are mutually pursuing against one another – by the International Court of Justice (ICJ)-mandated deadline of November 4th. Serbia’s response to Croatia’s arguments will likely contain over a thousand pages. After the ICJ in The Hague reviews the new documents, it will allow the Croatian side extra time to prepare (and possibly reply) and a hearing will at last be scheduled. Croatia first instigated its genocide suit against Serbia in 1999. Slobodan Homen, the State Secretary of the Serbian Justice Ministry, maintained this week that Serbia is still prepared to resolve all issues through dialogue and that “the ball is now in Croatia’s court.”
Kukuriku Candidate Elected Mayor of Varaždin In a runoff contest that many people see as a preview to the upcoming national parliamentary elections, Goran Habus of the HNS-SDP-HSU coalition was elected mayor of Varaždin, winning 70 percent of the vote. The independent candidate challenging Habus, Zlatko Horvat, won 28 percent. Voters were called to the polls for this early mayoral election following the July resignation of former Mayor Ivan Čehok – who is suspected of defrauding the town of millions of Kuna. The voter turnout in the runoff contest was 35.34 percent.
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November 3rd – November 16th
fortnightly feature
Many Faces of Political Shame The past fortnight has truly been a fortnight of striking historical precedents. Never before has an MP been stripped of his immunity for speaking his mind, and never before has a political party been indicted. And everything takes on a whole new meaning if we know that the party in question is traditionally the strongest Croatian political force, the Croatian Democratic Union. Parliamentary elections are fast approaching, and as masks are removed many faces will reveal their true colours – colours stained by shame. Allow me to submit a short diary... By Igor Dakić
october 21st – a small constitutional coup I have not felt like this for a very long time, and the feeling I speak of is the feeling of absolute indignation. Professionally – sometimes even religiously – nurturing a sort of ironic distance, I am usually immune to these kinds of emotions. I can understand most facets of politicians’ proverbial will to power, I can understand the lies, the deceit – even corruption – but stripping an opposition MP of parliamentary immunity on the ground that his verbal qualification of HDZ as a “criminal organisation” is a hate crime and a libellous statement is beyond my grasp. Mind, in what I take to be a direct violation of the constitutionally protected right of all parliamentarians to speak openly in any fashion they please, MP Željko Jovanović of SDP was stripped of his immunity by a party that has been qualified as having “engaged in joint criminal enterprise” by none other than Mladen Bajić, Croatia’s State Attorney. I do not have the habit of quoting him, but SDP chief Zoran Milanović has summed up the situation at hand in the best way possible: “What HDZ has done is tantamount to a small constitutional coup.” Indeed, penalising an MP for speaking his mind is just that, and perhaps worse.
After a long succession of scandals, it was probably only a matter of time when USKOK was going to announce that they were investigating HDZ and preparing an indictment against the party as a legal person – a first in independent Croatia’s young history. Still, it came as a surprise that this should happen a mere month before the elections – a move which gave rise to speculation, at least in some circles, as to the true motives of Croatia’s State Attorney, Mladen Bajić. Champions of HDZ obviously see this development as an instance of foul play, or an instance of Bajić “getting in bed” with his future masters from the SDP-led Kukuriku coalition. Others, equally obviously, see this as nothing more than a key branch of the judiciary, at long last, doing its job. No point in denying it, HDZ has been hit harder than it has ever been hit before. Even PM Kosor didn’t dare deny it, as she stood up at a press conference and said that, if necessary, HDZ would return to their proverbial barracks by the Jarun Lake and start from
Will this institution (hdz) rise from the ashes or, like the Democratic Christians in Italy some twenty years ago, collapse on the back of its own political iniquities? scratch, pointing out, again, that it was her government that embarked on the first proper fight against corruption in Croatia’s modern history. It was bold, but it may have just fallen flat, especially as some of the party’s assets have been frozen, namely the party HQs in Zagreb. USKOK suspects HDZ of having appropriated at least 30 million Kuna of taxpayers’ money – and this might well be just the tip of an iceberg. The “black funds” were used for a variety of things: for giving extra allowances to high-ranking party officials; remunerating celebrities for their support of the party during election campaigns; purchasing custom-
made limousines; “awarding” coalition partners – and the list goes on. HDZ has, all in all, 26 different bank accounts, and there is no doubt that they will have no difficulty financing the upcoming elections. What they will have difficulty with, however, is in persuading the broader electorate that they are still a legitimate political option. And they will have even greater difficulty dealing with – the shame. Although we may say with some certainty that PM Kosor herself is not and has never been a corrupt official, we cannot actually figure out if she is shameful or shameless. Perhaps she is both, ashamed of having participated in those corrupt, Sanader-led governments, and shameless in occasional fear-mongering and constant quest for self-promotion. Either way, she is at a crossroads. HDZ is one of Croatia’s most notable institutions, both in the best and the worst sense. Will this institution rise from the ashes or, like the Democratic Christians in Italy some twenty years ago, collapse on the back of its own political iniquities? History will show. But I’m afraid that “history”, in this rare instance, will take place exactly a month from now.
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october 28th – god help ivo sanader The whole nation tuned in to watch the arraignment of former PM Sanader, but it was not Judge Turudić who would make a ruling, but rather Sanader’s doctor: before hearing his alleged crimes listed out loud in the courtroom, Sanader must first pay a visit to the hospital for an emergency coronary check-up. Indeed, his health is far from perfect, and talk that he might be faking a heart condition may be nothing more than just that – talk. Watching this still arrogant, spiteful, eloquent and, compared to his former self, emaciated and sickly statesman I could not help but feel
october 30th – the fall of the hdz empire?
ashamed. On one hand, I feel ashamed that something like that could have happened in my country – this type of corruption, on that level – whilst on the other I feel ashamed that I am capable of sympathising with him – if that makes any sense. I suppose it does. Allow me to repeat a sentence form the introductory epistle: “Beholding the spectacle of his miscarried arraignment I could not escape from
the impression that the “honest” thief has been supplanted by his own sycophants – a truly egregious scenario, something along the lines of Trotsky’s fate.” But it suits him right. He was known for surrounding himself with inferior personalities, and – here follows another impression – now these same inferior personalities are in charge of deciding his fate. God help him.
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feature interview
H21 – Boldly Going Where No Croat Has Gone Before
world (Australia, the US, New Zealand, Canada, Switzerland and other western countries) except in their homeland - Croatia. We want to create the same environment so that a new generation of honest Croatians does not need to run away but can be successful in Croatia. Many of our youth and young professionals are leaving the country and this will pose even greater problems for us as a nation. We must change the course of the nation’s history. We can do better!
In our series of pre-election interviews with political players, the time has come to introduce a new political option, and an option which, being free market-oriented and patriotic as we are, we cannot help but like. We leave the floor to Nataša Srdoč, President of Croatia 21st Century – Hrvatska 21. Stoljeća (or simply H21), a friend and, yes, in the capacity of President of the Adriatic Institute for Public Policy, also a dedicated contributor of this paper.
C
r We’ve known you for years as the
leader of the Adriatic Institute for Public Policy…what was the crucial moment that made you decide to go into politics? ns Since 2004, our colleagues at the Adriatic Institute and its distinguished and engaged advisory board have robustly advocated structural reforms in Croatia. I realised that Croatia’s political sphere was not open to implementing economic reforms that would release the government’s oppressive stronghold on the economy. Over the last 20 years, Croatia’s politicians got used to the notion of controlling the media, economy and judiciary. As long as they got away with immense wealth through political corruption, they had no intention to change the system. From an initial emphasis on economic reforms, the Adriatic Institute focused on efforts that would establish a strong rule of law and protection of property rights. We have been active in placing the spotlight on Croatia via conferences and international media and specifically through strategic briefings of senior US and EU elected officials on the vicious cycle of political corruption in Croatia and its entanglement with the judiciary, the media and the economy. True, the external pressures have brought to Croatia an initial process aimed at removing a few individuals within the ranks of the incumbent HDZ; however, we are far from witnessing a robust and consistent fight against corruption based on the rule of law. What we see today is a cherry-picking scheme. To this date, there has not been one final verdict in the numerous cases of political corruption. Since the current political parties are far from being consistent in tackling corruption within their own ranks and even further from implementing economic reforms, I asked the
Our goal is to confiscate all assets from public officials which they cannot account for. Individuals who are in close relationship with such officials & have unexplained wealth would be also asked to provide proof that they have gained their assets legally. same question as Ronald Reagan did, “If not us, then who? If not now, then when?” Our nation has wasted 20 years. We cannot afford to lose an additional 4, 8 or 20 years to corruption, nepotism, ignorance and socialism. The same parties which have governed the national and regional levels have one common trait - they have failed Croatia’s citizens and taxpayers! At the end of the day, close partners, advisors and I along with our family made the decision to launch Croatia’s principled political party - Hrvatska 21. stoljeća - Croatia 21st Century (H21).
cr As a new and, first and foremost, free market-oriented political option, what do you bring to the table that hasn’t been put forth before in the Croatian political landscape? ns Croatia 21st Century is committed to establishing an independent judiciary, rule of law and protection of property rights with the assistance of visiting judges and prosecutors. Through a successful mechanism of combating corruption, we will send a signal to domes-
cr Corruption is the seven-headed mon-
Nataša Srdoč, MBA, President, Hrvatska 21 stoljeća - Croatia 21st Century (H21) and CoFounder and Chairman, Adriatic Institute for Public Policy
tic and foreign investors that Croatia does not tolerate corruption and that their investment is safe and secure. This is vital to improving Croatia’s reputation. We will create a favourable investment environment through bold tax reform, introduce flexibility in the labour market, cancel all the licenses and permission that do not provide any direct benefits, reduce the cost of labour through reduction of contributions from salary, eliminate para-fiscal fees (there are some 200 different fees affecting business today) and privatise the remaining state-owned companies in a transparent manner. We will introduce the successful flat tax at a level lower than 20% and thus introduce transparency and simplicity to the tax system. This kind of environment will attract new investments which will create new jobs and boost economic growth. Hrvatska 21will balance the government budget by reducing the government expenditures, put a constitutional limit on the level of the public debt with an objective to eliminating it through higher growth in the future and put the public finances on a sustainable path. A greater portion of the workforce which is on the government payroll today – estimated at around 50% – will gradually move to the private sector through privatisation and the creation of new jobs. I would like Croatians to aspire and live the “Croatian Dream”. Croatians have been successful as entrepreneurs all around the
ster, but what are some of the concrete measures that we need to take? ns In order to establish an independent judiciary and the rule of law in Croatia it is of utmost importance to bring visiting judges and prosecutors from the countries with a tradition of the strong rule of law who will assist honest and competent Croatian judges in addressing cases of political corruption. Visiting judicial experts would also help reduce the backlog of above 1 million cases stuck in the court system, with some taking more than 15 years to get resolved. We need to send a message to individual Croatians and the world that we do not tolerate corruption. Our goal is to confiscate all assets from current and former public officials which they cannot account for. Individuals who are in close relationship with such officials and have unexplained wealth would be also asked to provide proof that they have gained their assets legally. We would direct the monetary value of confiscated assets to the government budget and use it for repayment of public debt.
cr As concerns Croatia’s impeding entry into the EU, I understand that your view is this: the EU is not necessarily bad, but, in signing this Treaty, Croatia has failed to protect some of its key national interests. (please give us as many concrete examples as possible of how the Treaty is bad) ns We have not accomplished what we expected from the EU accession process, which was to establish the rule of law, an independent judiciary and successfully combat political corruption in Croatia. On the other hand, we Croatians are giving up our exclusive economic zone on the sea and an opportunity to grow new grapes and increase our wine production. There is a huge potential for future economic growth measured in billions of Euros just in these two areas - I do not see one reason why Croatians should give them away for free. In our discussions with European and US leaders, they are shocked to hear that Croatia is giving up its economic zone and giving away our potential in the agricultural sector. The deal on the table must be renegotiated.
cr You have also been quite vocal about the so called non-existent votes, as many as 550 thousand of them. American Forbes even wrote about this in its latest issue – but where did you get this information? ns This information was provided by our trusted colleague Radovan Smokvina, President of Alliance for the Rule of Law State, who alerted Croatia’s State Electoral Commission in 2007 that there were 550,000 (17% of the popular vote) non-existent votes. In his written response, Branko Hrvatin, the president of the State Electoral Commission, and al-
N. Srdoč with Dr. ivo Orlić, nuclear physicist from the University of Rijeka and member of H21
so the president of the Supreme Court, proclaimed the Commission had no jurisdiction over the verification of voters’ lists. A vital “check and balance” system would require the State Electoral Commission to verify that the voter lists received by different counties reflect the real number of Croatian citizens with the right to vote. This has not been done in Croatia today and it has to be addressed prior to the upcoming parliamentary elections on December 4! We cannot talk about fair and free elections if we have 550,000 fake votes that can easily tip the balance in favour of established parties. This also creates a low voter turnout - as individual voters believe that their vote will not impact the results of elections. Although this issue was raised right after the parliamentary elections in 2007, no major political party has insisted on resolving it. The major parties are complicit in blocking real reforms in this area. If this is not addressed, then the international community’s principled leaders and independent think tanks have a responsibility to call Croatia’s election “null and void”.
cr What is your take on these recent – and major – scandals shaking the very foundations of HDZ, traditionally the biggest Croatian political party? Has this created a window of opportunity for new ideas and new options? ns HDZ’s top politicians led to the demise of their own party. They abused the system, stole taxpayers’ funds and amassed immense unexplained wealth. The worst part is that through this corrupt process they also stalled economic and judicial reforms which would have brought about the rule of law, transparency and accountability and made Croatian citizens economically free. HDZ, however, is not the only party that is to be blamed. For instance, SDP local governments have to restore properties confiscated during communism and over the past two decades - instead of trying to ignore private property rights. For example: where lies the loyalty of local Rijeka judges who have received apartments from the City of Rijeka, as all the while the City of Rijeka also figures as an active party in the court process? For Hrvatska 21, we see a void in Croatia’s political landscape for a modern and principled political party which champions free enterprise and the rule of law. We are dedicated to building a Croatia where the youth have incentives to work and invest in their homeland and where there is opportunity for those who want to invest and create new jobs. We like to see ourselves as representing New Croatia!
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November 3rd – November 16th
in perspective
The European Stage This Fortnight
In sum, the amendments touched on all the usual complaints levied against Croatia concerning its fitness to join the EU... Above all, may Europe’s new debt agreement prove more binding and more effective, lest Croatia find itself with nothing to join in 2013.
July 1st, 2013 seems quite distant still, what with the more pressing concerns of solving – or at least addressing – the problem of Eurozone debt; nevertheless, the procedural preconditions to the signing of Croatia’s accession treaty are being summarily checked off the list, too.
By Alana Riksheim
A
sigh of (temporary) relief
The big news this fortnight was announced on October 27th, when the leaders of the Eurozone announced that they had reached a three-pronged agreement to tackle the problem of Greece and comprehensively deal with the sovereign debt crisis threatening the entire bloc. The significance of the announcement was instantly palpable in markets worldwide: European stock exchanges posted three-month highs that Thursday; the Dow Jones Stoxx Banks index, which aggregates the performance of European banks, went up nearly 5% following the news; and the German Dax and French CAC40 rose by 3.8% and 3.6% respectively on the open and extended gains to 4.46% and 5.14% by midday. European leaders worked all night to secure the agreement. At the bleary-eyed press conference in Brussels which followed , President of the European Commission José Manuel Barroso said, “We need to show our citizens there is hope”. (It is a miracle that the global markets rebounded to such an extent, what with sound bites like that one.) The hope promised by the agreement may not be permanent, but the pundits and the markets agree that the EU’s leaders have at the very least bought some much-needed time. The marathon talks in Brussels produced three concrete results: first, a decision that banks holding Greek debt are to accept a 50% loss; second, an order that such banks raise more capital to protect themselves against potential future government defaults; and third, a mechanism to boost the Eurozone’s principal bailout fund to about 1 trillion Euros. It’s a three-pronged approach, coupling the haircut principle with boosted contributions on the parts of member states and banks. The framework for the bailout fund is expected to be put in place this November, with Germany, as the largest economy, likely contributing the largest share. Greece will receive 100 billion Euros of extra bailout monies sometime in early 2012.
In preparation for the ongoing talks this month, Klaus Regling, the head of the Eurozone’s bailout fund, the European Financial Stability Facility (EFSF), is purportedly going after China to heavily invest in a scheme to help “rescue” indebted member countries. After meeting Chinese leaders, Regling said there were no formal negotiations and could announce no deal at present, though it is estimated that the Chinese may pay upwards of 70 billion Euros into the bailout fund. “I am optimistic that we will have a longer term relationship,” Regling said. Like any good investor, Beijing has made it clear that it will demand strong guarantees backing any potential contribution to the European fund. It remains to be seen just who will reach into their pockets – and how willingly. The Chinese? The Germans? Investors anonymous? Barroso dubs the quest for European financial stability “a marathon, not a sprint”, but Europe can only hope that capital pours into the bailout fund at a good clip.
amendments to draft resolution on croatian accession The debt agreement stole the headlines, but Croatia has keenly followed other news coming out of Brussels this past two weeks. On October 20th the European Parliament’s Rapporteur on Croatia, Hannes Swoboda, presented a draft resolution on Croatia’s EU membership application to the Foreign Affairs Committee. This non-binding resolution – which will be paired with another that expresses the Parliament’s consent for the signing of the actual Accession Treaty – are the next (and nigh last) formalities in the lead-up to summer 2013, when Croatia is anticipated to become the 28th member state of the EU. The draft resolutions will be put to a vote before the Foreign Affairs Committee on November 17th, and sent on to a plenary session of the Parliament on November 30th or December 1st. Provided that the European Council
officially accepts the draft accession treaty on December 5th, all procedural requirements for the treaty’s signing will have been met. The formalities in question are not terribly interesting, particularly in light of the dramatic Eurozone debt meetings of the past fortnight. It would appear that the cogs of EU parliamentary procedure are churning routinely. The thing worth noting, however, is that EU parliamentarians have submitted 113 amendments to the draft resolution on Croatia now sitting before the Foreign Affairs Committee. Most of these do not substantially affect Swoboda’s draft, offering mere clarifications
or linguistic improvements; a few others, at least, deserve mention. An amendment offered by French Socialist MP Pervenche Beres, introduced on behalf of the EC Committee on Employment and Social Affairs, obliges member states not to adopt temporary employment restrictions for Croatian nationals upon accession. This is an important gesture, indeed, as during membership negotiations, it was agreed that EU states could legally introduce employment bans against Croatians for the period of the next seven years (following the precedent established in the past two enlargement rounds).
Croatia is not entirely powerless in the situation, being entitled to introduce reciprocal measures of its own which bar the employment of foreign nationals hailing from countries unfriendly to Croatian labourers. Unlike the Beres amendment, the one introduced by two deputies of the Italian North League party, Lorenzo Fontana and Fiorello Provera, is not so generous-minded. The Italian MPs are requesting that Church property once confiscated by the Croatian communist regime be returned to its legitimate owners and that the Croatian government “avoid tensions in relations with Church authorities”.
Swedish Social Democrat Goran Farm submitted an amendment saying that, while freedom of expression is guaranteed by Croatian laws and is generally respected, the European Parliament should encourage Croatian authorities to take further steps to ensure the independence of media regulatory bodies, rid the sector of political influence, and promote professionalism amongst those working in the media. Deputies of the Green Party, Franziska Katharina Brantner of Germany and Marije Cornelissen of the Netherlands, submitted an amendment condemning the violence at the Gay Pride parade which took place in Split this past summer and asking Croatian authorities fully to investigate and punish perpetrators, as well as implement action plans to prevent further violent manifestations of homophobia. The Green Party representatives also put forth an amendment suggesting the adoption of a four-court system to prosecute war crimes, particularly those perpetrated by Croatian security forces against ethnic Serbs, citing impunity as a “significant problem”. The Bulgarian Christian Democrat Nadezda Neinski called on the Croatian government to continue with reforms to increase the transparency of the financing of political parties; Romanian Christian Democrats Monica Luisa Macovei and Traian Ungureanu called on Croatia to improve the selection and appointment of its judges and prosecutors “based on uniform, transparent and objective criteria”. In sum, the amendments touched on all the usual complaints levied against Croatia and all the usual questions concerning its fitness to join the EU – voiced as non-binding suggestions, of course. May the good intentions behind the amendments translate into continued progress in Croatia and continued support on the part of EU member states. Above all, may Europe’s new debt agreement prove more binding and more effective than a mere non-binding resolution, lest Croatia find itself with nothing to join in 2013.
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the economy
Labour Market in the Region: What Have the (un)Employed Got to Say During the 2nd Regional Virtual Career and Knowledge Day (5-12 October) a comprehensive study of the labour market, involving more than 1,300 respondents, was conducted by the web-portal MojPosao (www.mojposao. net) in collaboration with the leading job web-sites in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia (Posao.ba and Infostud.com, respectively). For the record, as concerns respondents from Croatia, 32% were employed, 37% were unemployed, while 31% of respondents were still studying. If forced to draw very concise conclusions, we might say this: Croats are the regional pessimists, whilst Serbs expect a pay rise despite the crisis. By Marko Oltean, Sales & Client Service Manager, MojPosao
T
he crisis reigns
Only 10% of employed respondents from Croatia claim that the economic crisis has not affected the operations of the company they work for, or that in the last two years the situation in their companies has improved. In Serbia, this percentage is slightly higher (12%), while in Bosnia and Herzegovina only 8% of respondents do not feel affected by the crisis. Most respondents from Croatia are of the opinion that the crisis has primarily resulted in salary cuts (38%), and an additional 37% of respondents confirm there have been a number of lay-offs in tgheir companies, while 34% confirm that the crisis has put new employment to a halt. 3% of respondents worked for companies that went belly up as a result of the economic crisis. The biggest lay-offs occurred in Serbia: almost half of the respondents (43%) say this has been the most common way of dealing with the crisis. On the other hand, Bosnia and Herzegovina has had by far the smallest percentage of dismissals (29%). Respondents from Croatia are still the most concerned about their job (48%). Respondents feel somewhat safer in Serbia (45%) and Bosnia and Herzegovina (44%). When it comes to changing jobs, respondents from Serbia (69%) tend to be more proactive, whilst in Bosnia and Herzegovina this figurev stands at 56%. More than half of the Croatian respondents (51%) would not like to change their jobs at the moment. Respondents from Croatia are the least optimistic when it comes professional advancement (28%) or getting a pay rise (17%). The most optimistic are the Serbs: 30% of them expect a pay rise and a further 38% expect to advance professionally. If they could choose a perfect employer, nearly a third of the respondents from all three countries would choose to work for a for-
The fact that only 29% of Croats list their careers among their major goals in life sounds disturbing indeed, but let us leave editorial interpretation for some other occasion and allow all these numbers to speak for themselves. WHAT KIND OF JOB ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? (CROATIAN ANSWERS) In the profession Outside the profession Any job Not looking for work, waiting for it to find me :)
31% 4% 64% 1%
Source: www.mojposao.net
eign-owned private company. The state as an employer is more popular in Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina – where 29% and 28% of respondents, respectively, would ‘work for the state’ – than in Croatia, where the state is the preferred employer of fewer than one fifth of the respondents (18%).
flexibility of the unemployed The causes of unemployment in all three countries in the past year have remained the same. In Croatia, 38% of respondents are unemployed because they have not found a job after graduation, roughly a quarter (24%) of them were left without a job due to the crisis, whilst another 24% of the respondents did not get their contracts renewed. In the neighboring countries, the reasons for unemployment are identical, but there is a larger proportion
of respondents who, having completed their education, could not find a job (49% in Bosnia and Herzegovina and 42% in Serbia). In Croatia, most respondents (25%) have been unemployed for six months to a year. The same goes for Serbia, whilst in Bosnia and Herzegovina most respondents have been unemployed for up to three months (24%). No matter what country they come from, most respondents get their information about job vacancies through specialised web-sites. Last year, the most active respondents in terms of the number of applications per position were the Croatians, whilst this year it is the Serbs. 29% of unemployed respondents from Serbia applied, on average, for in between 11 and 30 positions. In this category, numbers for Croatia stand at 23%. On the other hand, 64% of Croats would take on any job, although the
numbers are high for Serbia and B&H as well, standing at 62% and 59%, respectively. Respondents from all three countries agree that the possibility of professional development and advancement are the most important elements when choosing a job. In all three countries the second most important factor is job security, and for an average of one third of unemployed respondents money is not the most important element. The views of respondents as to what is important when is comes to finding a job do not differ depending on the country of origin. Having a “connection” takes the prize – as 73% of respondent in Serbia, 71% in Bosnia and Herzegovina and 70% in Croatia believe that nepotism is the winning ticket. Still, as many as 44% of Serbs believe they will find a job by the end of the year; in contrast, Croats are the most pessimistic, as only 33% of them believe this year will be kind to them in terms of finding employment. Most respondents from all three countries would be willing to volunteer if offered a possibility of permanent future employment – 90% in B&H, 88% in Croatia and 86% in Serbia.
student optimism & career indifference Among those who are still in school, 34% of Croats believe they will find a job within one to three months, followed by the Serbs (30%) and the Bosnians (26%). Nearly half of the respondents from Croatia (47%) believe that the best time to look for a job is while they are still studying. On the other hand, the biggest number of respondents from Bosnia and Herzegovina (51%) and Serbia (53%) believe that the best time to search for a permanent job is after graduation. While respondents from Croatia (62%) believe that knowledge and skills are the most essential qualities on a job hunt, the Serbs give primacy to experience (60%), although, again, 58% of them believe that the easiest way to find a job is by having the right ˝connections˝(58%). Respondents from Bosnia and Herzegovina put equal faith in experience (57%) as they do in knowledge and skills (57%). For all respondents, regardless of nationality, interpersonal relationships in the future workplace are of the greatest importance. And, finally, when it comes to defining one’s career as an absolute priority, the most “ambitious” respondents are those from Bosnia and Herzegovina (43%). The fact that only 29% of Croats list their careers among their major goals in life sounds disturbing indeed, but let us leave editorial interpretation for some other occasion and allow all these numbers to speak for themselves.
The Official Gazette: A Quaint Monopoly A survey conducted in September this year by the website MojPosao (www.mojposao.net) shows that “nepotism and corruption” prevail in employment practices in the civil service and other companies in the public sector. 95% of companies in the public sector do not want to advertise jobs in any media other than the Official Gazette (Narodne Novine). By Marko Oltean, Sales & Client Service Manager, MojPosao
M
ore than a half of the 52% of those who are able to work and employed are working in the public sector, but the ads for their positions may be published only in the Official Gazette. Naturally, almost 90% of respondents in the MojPosao survey thought that publishing the ad in other media would increase transparency of employment in the public sector. “It would send a message, although of questionable honesty, that these institutions and companies are looking for quality staff,” said one respondent, and the general attitude is that running ads in other media would encourage public debate and help expertise get the better of nepotism and corruption. Most participants believe that job interviews are pre-arranged, and 8% of respondents thought that publishing advertisements in other media would not affect the transparency of the process in any way. ˝What they do is simply to announce a job opening, but for a specific person that is already hired – the only thing missing in the ad is the photo of that person˝, commented one respondent with a degree of irony. Others who disagree point out that it makes no sense to spend extra money
or exert further pressure on the work-load of civil servants. Only 2% of respondents were indifferent to the manner in which job vacancies are advertised by the public sector. What is even more disturbing is the apparent – and quite high – level of ignorance with respect to job openings in the public sector. Fewer than 1% of respondents were aware that all job advertisements are published in the online edition of the Official Gazette, and also that a portion of those ads can be found on the web-sites of the Ministry of Labour and the Croatian Employment Institute (HZZ). Under current law, employers in the public sector are required to run job advertisements only in the Official Gazette, whilst the publication of ads in other media is possible with a special agreement, although this is sometimes done without permission. That aside, the truly worrysome tendency was brought to light by a telefone survey conducted last year: it is not only that companies in the public sector generally do not wish to run advertisements in other media; as many as 95% of them expressed a complete lack of interest in publishing ads even if advertising space were given to them for free.
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November 3rd – November 16th
editorial
A Terrorist Attack in Sarajevo – the 21st Century Version The perpetrator: an Islamic fundamentalist and member of the Wahhabi sect. The target: US property and officials. The context: as most things in Bosnia, complicated.
by Dylan Alexander
O
n Friday, October 28th, a young man sporting a beard and dressed in military clothing first lingered briefly at a street corner some 100 yards away from the US Embassy in Sarajevo, and then, unprovoked, started to fire off shots from an assault rifle at the embassy building, wounding at least one policeman. After a 30-minute standoff, he was finally brought down by a sniper shot to the leg…In minutes, the news spread all over the world: a terrorist attack had taken place in Sarajevo. The terrorist was soon identified as Mevlid Jašarević, a 23-year-old Muslim and Serbian citizen from the town of Novi Pazar in the Sandžak region – and a member of the fundamentalist Wahhabi sect of Islam. In a public statement almost immediately issued to the media, B&H Federation President Bakir Izetbegović said, “I firmly condemn the terrorist attack on the US embassy in Bosnia-Herzegovina.” Željko Komšić, the Vice President of Social Democrats and former Federal Prime Minister , appeared at a press conference the same day and, with great gravitas (pardon the cacophony), expressed his concern at certain “social tendencies” (still) at work in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In a country-protectorate without a functional government one could hardly expect them to articulate anything else – which is not to say that there is anything wrong with a “firm condemnation” of a terrorist attack. What is missing is the subtext.
mujahedeen in a strange land We shall not dwell too much on Jašarević’s criminal past, but his home-town does deserve to be accorded a measure of context. Novi Pazar is the biggest city of the Sandžak region which, though split between Serbia and Montenegro, has a majority Bosniak Muslim population and is, in your author’s
humble opinion, more “Ottoman” in character than any other part of former Yugoslavia. Though picturesque and historically a major Balkan trade hub, Sandžak may also be characterised as one of the most backwards parts of the former country, with a comparatively low standard of living and underdeveloped infrastructure (a physician friends tells me that parts of Sandžak were so isolated that leprosy managed to survive in this region well into the 1970s, truly an oddity in a European country). It is thence that Jašarević comes, although, strangely enough, all the recent Balkan wars notwithstanding, the last major inter-ethnic incident that occurred in Sandžak took place as far back as 1924 when Orthodox peasants massacred hundreds of Bosniaks under the pretext that Bosniak outlaws had murdered a local Montenegrin hero – an allegation which appeared to be completely false. True or false, it is not difficult to imag-
Gavrilo Princip
ine what kinds of adult conversations young Jašarević might have been eavesdropping on during the war in Bosnia – bear in mind that in 1995, at the time of the signing of the Dayton Accords, he was only a seven-yearold boy. Perhaps on the clandestine conversations recounting the heroic exploits of the Bosnian Mujahedeen, as they fought the better equipped and more numerous Christian enemy? We can only speculate, of course, but we should never underestimate the power of epic poetry and the knack for glorifying various different forms of guerrilla warfare shared by all Balkans peoples without exception. But we must return to facts, and the aforementioned missing subtext. It is no secret that a number of foreign Mujahedeen fought in the War in Bosnia, and it is no secret that most Bosniak officials see this episode as a liability. The exact number is still disputed – some say 300, others say as many as 4000. Some, like the famed Abu Hamza, were humanitarian workers, but there is no denying that there was no shortage of fanatical personages as well, hailing from the Arab World, Pakistan or elsewhere. In order to prevent any sort of anti Bosniak bias, we may also mention that there was no shortage of imported neo-Nazi adventurers and criminals fighting on the side of the Serbs and the Croats. In any event, US Balkans peace negotiator Richard Holbrooke said in an interview that “the Muslims wouldn’t have survived without this help”, but in 2001 he did refer to the presence of the Mujahedeen as “a pact with the devil”. Predrag Matvejević, the Croatian literato and university professor with an Italian address, might help us to clear up the issue: “The number was much smaller than the number presented by Croatian and Serbian
propaganda,” he said. Be that as it may, every now and again there is a scandal across the border involving either the behaviour or status of the former Mujahedeen who have decided to settle in Bosnia after the war. The Bosnian officials – always at odds along ethnic lines but unified when it comes to rejecting Islamic fundamentalism – do not know how to deal with them, and they certainly do not know how to deal with the most visible result of their presence – the (however slow or controlled) spreading of Wahhabi communities, which naturally feed on the fear and indigence of certain members of the local population. There is Glory in it, and there is Money in it, and there is Order in it – all the things essentially unavailable to the common man in the post-war Bosnian society.
the bosnian terrorist legacy We must not forget that Bosnia actually has a tradition of breeding terrorists. Let us not forget Gavrilo Princip, the man who assassinated the Habsburg Archduke Ferdinand and thus ignited the spark the set World War I in motion. Let us not forget that most peasant rebellions against the disastrous Yugoslav agrarian reform in the late 1940s sprang up in Bosnia, and that the ring leaders were dealt with as one would deal with terrorist. Let us also not forget that, had the word existed back then, most champions of American independence would have, some mere 200 years ago, been considered “terrorists” by the British Crown, then the chief global (imperialistic) authority. I do not mean to relativise the ghastliness of modern day terrorist activities, but the reader gets the idea. We must also not forget that none of the three Judeo-Christian religions is a tolerant one. In all of these religions, God is one and essentially very clear on what kinds of lives he expects us to lead. Most of the key rules and strictures leave very little room for interpretation. Judaism, as an ethno-religious phenomenon, has as such at least never attempted to evangelise, which means that it has never been globally dangerous. As for Christianity and Islam, we in the West must understand that we have no right to ask of Islam to follow Christianity’s suit, i.e., to become a largely recreational spiritual vehicle declaratively stripped of a decisive say when it comes to politics, law and generally accepted social practices. In light of these things, the Bosnian variant of Wahhabism is an expression of something rather different to the theological/social teaching which has flourished in Saudi for centuries. Arabian Wahhabism is an attempt at preserving a way of life, a certain theological and social purity in a country run by a
When a Bosniak turns to Wahhabism, however, he is, as it were, reversing the process: he is not so much trying to discover any kind of purity, but is rather attempting to lend some credence and cogency to his disorderly life at a moment when concrete values are being re-examined not only locally, but globally. monarch and governed by Shari’a law. When a Bosniak turns to Wahhabism, however, he is, as it were, reversing the process: he is not so much trying to discover any kind of purity, but is rather attempting to lend some credence and cogency to his disorderly life at a moment when concrete values are being reexamined not only locally, but globally. His quest is first and foremost of the social sort, for bona fide theology cannot play a major role in a population illiterate in Arabic and historically profoundly unfamiliar with fundamentalist Islamic moeurs. All things taken into consideration, Jašarević’s terrorist act is sooner an act of rebellion than war. Unlike, say, his more “professional” Middle-Eastern comrades, he was ill-prepared and armed too poorly to do any real damage. And what would a modern day Bosniak – or for that matter any Bosnian – rebel against? Why of course, he would rebel against the general state of affairs in his country, a country where landing an administrative job with a UN agency, High Commissioner’s Office or, of course, the American Embassy is just about the pinnacle of what his domestic labour market has to offer in terms of career and remuneration.
truth, power, dignity The beard and the garb aside, there is very little Wahhabist substance to this act, and to this man. It rather illustrates two inherently Balkan truths: 1) that the local culture (which, in spite of all the inter-ethnic tension, has historically been quite set in its ways) is losing grasp over itself and thus has sought to find “comfort” in imported “goods” such as Islamic fundamentalism; and 2) that the true Bosnian “terrorist” potential has become rather lukewarm. Gavrilo Princip had set off a world war, the most Jašarević can aspire for
is somewhat to spoil the winter tourism season in the Sarajevo Olympic centres of Jahorina and Bjelašnica. Another difference is that Princip was a Bosnian Serb, whilst Jašarević is a Serbian Muslim – and it is a completely unfruitful distinction. I know this is not what Western leaders like to hear, but so be it. And if you’ve wondered why they don’t like to hear it, it is simple: you cannot be powerful without having a powerful enemy. The worst thing you can do to a powerthat-be is to expose its nemesis for a weakling. I hope my American friends will forgive me, but this act was not necessarily directed against the United States. Committed by an uneducated, downtrodden and lost nobody it is a result of a lack of perception, or a result of a forfeited future. The same, of course, is probably true of most fanatical suicide bombers across the world – and now we’ve run full circle and are approaching the truth: want to reduce the number of terrorists? Well, then, stop telling whole populations that they are the breeding ground of terrorism, stop making stereotypes, allow wealth to be distributed more equally across the globe, raise the standard of living in the so called critical zones. Still, make no mistake about the following. When we start enumerating utopian solutions and policies we always come up short and catch our own tail. Let us rather be concrete: after he is released from the hospital and expedited to gaol or a mental asylum, after he has done his time, after the Bosnian penal systems has – let us hope – fulfilled its corrective function, let us find this man Jašarević a job; not necessarily a high-paying job, as, in all likelihood, he hasn’t got the goods to perform on that level, but a job that would nonetheless allow him to support a family, to live with dignity. In Bosnia? Now, wouldn’t that be something?
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industry profile
Cliff Rames: The Champion of Croatian Wines
price than a wine at the same price point from better-known producers from France, Italy, Chile, etc. If we can achieve this, and couple that with effectively telling Croatia’s wonderful wine story, then I think Croatia can be a serious market player like Austria and Greece, whose wines are not “cheap” but often deliver a lot of character and quality for the price.
cr What differentiates Croatia from oth-
We could not pass up the opportunity to consult sommelier Cliff Rames, who is arguably the most prolific (and passionate) promoter of Croatian whites, reds, oranges, rosés and sparklings internationally, for his take on the status and the future trajectory of the local industry.
C
r Croatian wines just graced the
cover of Wine Enthusiast in September – how important a milestone is this? Are Croatian wines at last catching the world’s attention, or rather, do you perceive that the general perception of Croatian wines internationally has changed of late?
cliff The Wine Enthusiast story is just one small step – a very important one, though – in a long process to introduce international wine buyers and consumers to Croatian wine. A lot of progress has been made in the last couple of years, but there is still so much more to do. Croatian wines are still unknown and unfamiliar to a lot people. Just yesterday I was talking to a wine collector who had no idea that Croatian wines were on the U.S. market. So we can pat ourselves on the back for some of the recent hype and recognition, but we cannot rest on any laurels yet because for every one wine drinker who knows Croatian wines, there are possibly 100
My message to Croatian winemakers has always been: In order to compete on the world market, your wine must deliver more character and quality for the price than a wine at the same price point from betterknown producers. If we can achieve this and effectively tell Croatia’s wine story, then I think Croatia can be a serious market player...
others who don’t. I always remind myself that even BIG established brands like Coca-Cola and McDonald’s advertise EVERYDAY. They spend millions of dollars a year on marketing. It’s the old saying, “out of sight, out of mind”. That is why I try to post at least one interesting bit of information on our Facebook page every day, and have been adding more blog posts recently (www.winesofcroatia.wordpress.com). What we need though is more advertising in major wine magazines, more high-placed stories, and more consumer events. We have come a very long way in the last three years, and I believe that general awareness of Croatian wines is 1000% higher than (let’s say) five years ago. Also, the commentary and feedback we get is overwhelmingly positive. Meaning, when people do finally learn about the wines and taste them, there is great interest and positive reaction. The region has a great story to tell. With time and more resources, I hope to continue telling the story far and wide.
Cliff Rames Cliff Rames was born in New York City, where he currently works as a sommelier at the Caudalie Vinotherapie Spa in the Plaza Hotel. Cliff first visited Croatia in 1980 when his father sent him to visit his family’s hometown on the island of Murter. As Cliff will attest, “That visit changed my life forever – I fell in love with Croatia and in my heart and mind, never left it.” For the last several years Cliff has tirelessly devoted his spare time to promoting Croatian wines, winemakers, wine regions and indigenous grapes around the world through his organization, “Wines of Croatia”. Cliff maintains a superbly edited blog (www.winesofcroatia.wordpress.com), has authored numerous articles in the service of telling Croatia’s wine story, and is focused on building up his organization’s website, social networking and community activities.
cr What are the obstacles that Croatian vintners have faced getting their bottles into stores and restaurants in foreign markets? For instance, are the price points competitive enough for the quality? cliff Some challenges that currently face all wine producers – not just Croatians – are owing to the economy and the market shift toward cheaper wines. Croatia is a very small country with only about 1% of its total surface area planted with grapevines. Production is very small. Not millions of bottles but often just thousands. As we know from Economics 101, the best way to lower cost is by raising volume. While some winemakers are increasing volume by small percentages, this is still not enough to have a significant impact on prices. For this reason, you will never see a $6 bottle of wine from Croatia. But I think that is
okay. The thing I love about Croatian wines is that they are artisanal products, often handmade by families who have been working the vineyards for centuries - not from plantations in a desert that can only survive with irrigation. Many Croatian wines are made from locally indigenous grapes that grow nowhere else in the world, including on small islands like Korčula and Vis. They have character and authenticity. Like all good things in life, these things come with a price. But that’s not to say that Croatian wines cannot be value wines. For me, value means that what you are getting for the price either meets or exceeds expectation in quality. My message to Croatian winemakers has always been: In order to compete on the world market, your wine must deliver MORE character and quality for the
er countries with small production volumes from mostly family-based vineyards – say, countries like Greece or Austria? cliff Mainly grape varieties. Croatia is blessed with an array of indigenous grapes that grow nowhere else in the world. But in a lot of ways Croatia has the most in common with Greece and Austria, and I often look to these countries as models. They both have very well-funded wine marketing agencies that have over the last 10 years or so done a stellar job of promoting their wine industries and raising awareness about the wines on the international market. Croatia is still catching up. But everything I do when telling the Croatian wine story is with an awareness of what makes the wines of Croatia similar to other products but also what makes them different and unique. In two words it comes down to “terroir” and “story” which distinguish Croatia. I mean, every wine region has terroir and some have good stories. I think consumers are always open to new stories and new taste experiences, and Croatian wines can deliver a unique experience.
cr Do you have any sense of what the new EU wine regulations will mean for the Croatian industry? Do you get the sense that production has already changed in anticipation of Croatia’s entrance into the common market? cliff In anticipation of eventual EU accession, Croatia is busy cataloging its library of indigenous grapes and conducting as much DNA profiling as possible to serve as evidence of these grapes’ unique identity as Croatian. They are also conducting satellite imaging of all vineyard areas to ensure that there is an accurate accounting of the number of hectares. Once Croatia enters the EU, no new vineyards will be allowed to be planted. So in the last few years, many wineries have expanded their acreage to increase production before EU regulations limit any future expansion. Many questions remain as to what the EU regulations will mean. For example, will ALL of Croatia’s indigenous grape varieties will be recognized? Will Croatia’s current classification system remain? What new labeling standards will take hold? Stay tuned...
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cr What is the future of Croatian wine? Do you predict that family-run vineyards will increasingly be bought up by agricultural conglomerates? Can small vintners “make it” as niche producers of world-class wines? cliff It’s hard to say, but I think that every producer – big and small – has an important role to play in Croatia’s wine future. And if they play their cards smartly and effectively, they can even help each other to succeed. The big producers have the capacity and resources to bring approachable, value-driven and affordable “gateway” wines to the market. These are important for someone who may be curious about Croatian wine but doesn’t want to spend $25, $40 or $70, but who would spend $14 for a nice, easy-drinking yet interesting wine from Croatia. Later, this consumer may decide to “upgrade” to a more expensive, artisanal wine from a small producer for a special occasion. This is a model that works elsewhere. For example, on the U.S. market you can find Gruner Veltlinger wines from Austria that range in price from $10 to $50 and above. The cooperatives in Croatia also play an important role in maintaining and sustaining the tradition of wine grape growing in many regions. Without a cooperative to sell to, many small growers might abandon their vineyards or sell them to another grower. As with everything diversity is important, and consumer choice is essential. It would be a very dangerous game for Croatia to play to offer international markets only “niche” wines that cost over $25 a bottle. The current market is not friendly to that kind of approach. So the Croatian wine export portfolio must be a mix of nice value-driven, $12 to $18 bottles along with the artisanal, small-batch wines that can raise the consumer experience to a high level. That’s why I believe that all producers, from the giants like AgrokorVina to the tiny guys like Clai, have a place and a role to play – and can even help each other. My philosophy has always been, “A rising tide raises all boats”.
cr What steps should be taken to ensure the success of Croatian wine-making into the future? Which grapes are the winners? Regions? Techniques? cliff For the beginning, Croatia should focus on its “big three” grape varieties (Graševina, Malvasia Istriana, and Plavac Mali) as the introduction. While awareness of these varieties is rising daily, they are hardly household words yet. But I always believed that Croatia’s contribution to the wine world must be made via its indigenous grapes. I just published a two-part blog piece about Babić, a local red grape in Northern Dalmatia. I love telling the stories of these “local hero”
It would be a very dangerous game for Croatia to play to offer international markets only “niche” wines that cost over $25 a bottle. The current market is not friendly to that kind of approach. grapes, and I think wine lovers enjoy hearing and reading about them. While there is some very good Chardonnay and Bordeaux blends from Croatia, these are not interesting stories and the market is saturated with these types of wines from all over the world. Hand-in-hand with the grape stories are the regions where they grow. Istria, Dalmatia and its islands, and areas like Plešivica, Kutjevo and Baranja will emerge (I think) as Croatia’s most internationally renowned regions. “Orange” wines (meaning wines that were made using a technique of long skin maceration or wines fermented in amphorae) are also a bit trendy now, and Croatia is already there: producers like Clai, Kabola, Matosevic, Roxanich, Tomac, and Trapan make some amazing orange wines that are already on the market. But wine is not a trend in Croatia. It’s a way of life. It’s a passion and a love. What is new is that we are just now introducing the world to this way of life, this passion and love, through the wines of Croatia. I think it is an approach that cannot fail as long as it remains sincere, authentic and the wines deliver on the promise at every level (quality & price).
cr Imagining that we had never had the pleasure of sampling Croatian wine, and this was our first Martinje in the country, could you recommend a specific tasting menu to get our feet (and palates) wet? cliff Simple: eat what the locals eat, and drink the local wines. Ask for recommendations. Visit some of the best restaurants, especially in Zagreb, Istria, and Dalmatia. Some of my greatest food and wine experiences in Croatia were not planned. They just spontaneously happened because I was open minded and wanted a “local experience”.
cr Tell us a little bit about your current labour of love, Wines of Croatia (www. winesofcroatia.com). How and when did you embark on the project and what are your present activities and goals?
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November 3rd – November 16th
DAILY WORKSHOPS Hotel Palace, Zagreb
cliff I started Wines of Croatia over three years ago as a way to express my own personal love for Croatia and its wines. But I also recognized the potential and noticed at the time that very little information about Croatian wines existed. It didn’t take long before I began to receive positive feedback and realised that there was a niche to fill. As a sommelier, I feel it is my duty to share these wines with anyone who will listen and taste! My activities today revolve around daily posts on Facebook and Twitter, writing blog posts, researching information, collecting data, interacting with folks who have questions about the wines or with fans who have commented on any of the posts, and planning events and new initiatives. My biggest challenge now is to develop the means to sustain Wines of Croatia as an organization and keep it fresh and interesting while taking it to the next level. I would like to see more involvement and investment by individual wineries as part of a long-term strategy for increasing effectiveness and creating growth. The website unfortunately remains unfinished but plans are to finish it in the coming months. 2012 will be a year with many new ideas and events, including our 2nd Annual Grand Tasting in the U.S. (location TBD). The ultimate goal remains this: that the wines of Croatia receive the international recognition and love that I think many of them deserve. That means that they stop being a novelty or rare curiosity item but a member of the international family of delicious, value-driven, and serious wines. There are many ways to measure this success: Croatian wines written about and positively reviewed in the mainstream press; Croatian wines selling in mainstream retail shops; Croatian wines on the wine lists of the world’s best restaurants; and Croatian wines on the kitchen tables of mainstream consumers. I’m aware of all these benchmarks and won’t rest until they are all achieved!
Why us?
28 / 11 01 / 12
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November 3rd – November 16th
lifestyle
Sharing the Wine Love: An American Sommelier in Croatia with a Mission to Quench Your Thirst
APRIL’S CROATIAN FAVOURITES
Favourite Sparkling Misal Blancs de Blanc Favourite white Coronica Malvazija Favourite orange wine Clai Sv. Jakov Malvazija
April Torzewski, who is both Sommelier and expat entrepreneur, shares with us her experiences in going into business for herself in Croatia. A good business rooted in the appreciation of the good life, mind you: wine travel and education.
C
Favourite red Roxanich Teran Re
Photo: Amy McLean
r How would you describe your
first steps in the wine business, here in Croatia? at I didn’t know what to expect from the Croatian wine scene when I arrived from the U.S., but I knew I was excited to get researching. I have since fallen in love with many Croatian wines, most of my favourites coming from Istria. I am exposing people to Croatian wines whenever possible, which is sort of self-serving as well, because every time I’m presenting these wines (or meeting with the winemakers) I am learning more about the Croatian wine scene myself. I think it’s great that most Croatians are so opinionated about which domestic wines are best – it means that they have a lot of respect for wine and the culture associated with it. And even if I don’t agree with their choice, it generally means that to settle the dispute I have to do what I love most, drink a glass of wine with a friend. As much as possible I share my love of wine with others, so it was only natural that I continued on with that when my family and I moved to Croatia in 2010. My husband took a posting in Zagreb, which meant I’d give up my job as a wine distributor, hop the pond and learn about what indeed Croatia had to offer a wine-obsessed girl like me. Well, I quickly found out that the jobs which were available to me were pretty limited, actually more like non-existent, especially what with my complete and utter lack of Croatian language skills.
cr How did you get into teaching wine courses?
at After we’d been here just a short while, the word got around that I am a certified sommelier, and people started asking me to teach some wine classes. I had been doing this in the States in some of the culinary schools, and I absolutely loved it, so I decided to take the plunge and set up shop. I started with teaching wine classes in a studio I created
in my house and in a local restaurant downtown, Apetit City. It’s been a ton of fun for me. Nowadays I offer basic wine appreciation classes as a five-part series, and I also offer a lot of themed classes, sometimes featuring winemakers. This year the themes will be fantastic as well, with a strong focus on the magic of great food and wine pairings. This includes some classes I’m really looking forward to with another expat who’s a brilliant chocolatier. I’ve also talked a few winemakers into coming from Piedmont, Italy and Rioja, Spain, later this fall. With these guys, l’ll be doing a handful of fun wine classes, tastings and dinners around town.
Best food/wine combo Truffle Risotto and Malvazija Best mid-range gifting wine Piquentum Terre
cr What is your take on the Croatian wine scene?
at I think Croatia has a really exciting wine scene, much of which is first generation. It’s inspiring to see all of these winemakers inventing themselves and their styles, taking risks and not being afraid to have to do something over, if need be. Many of them will admit, quite frankly, that they’ve tried something and it didn’t work out. But in the same breath they tell you what’s around the corner, what they want to do next. They aren’t bound by old rules or tight restrictions, and many are fearlessly forging ahead.
BRAVA WINE COMPANY
cr Can you describe your business in more detail?
at Another aspect of my business is that I am leading wine-based travel, primarily through Istria and Italy, but I’m ready to branch into Slovenia in the near future. I think they have some really exciting wines coming from this area, particularly in the Goriška Brda region – it may be pure coincidence that it borders my favourite Italian region of the Collio, but I doubt it. In any event, here in Croatia we have fantastic access to all of Europe for travel, and if I had about a million more hours in the day I’d love to get into exploring the wine regions of Austria and Germany, too. But I’m trying to stay reigned in and focus on the areas with which I’m familiar. I’ve learned the hard way that it’s not fun to spend two hours trying to find these cool restaurants (or hotels, wineries, etc.) that the GPS is convinced are on the other side of the planet. Also, I understand that people can plan their own itineraries and plan their travel themselves on a lower budget, so I work diligently to keep the prices very fair and pack lots of interesting surprises into my trips. For example, I take visitors on my Italian trip to a super crazy osteria that you could only find about through word of mouth.
For more information on upcoming classes, tastings, dinners, events and tours, check out the Brava Wine Company on Facebook or on its website: http://www.bravawine. webs.com
cr And the international community here in Croatia, have they been of any help?
at I am working quite a bit with people in
You have to drive up this crazy winding road, park the vehicles in one of two parking spots notched out of a vineyard. Then this cat comes up and finds you, and then you follow him to the osteria, which is located in the middle of a vineyard with a beautiful view. The room is full of artisan salamis, cheeses, olive oil and bread, and there’s a fridge full of interesting wine. You grab a seat next to the glowing fire and eat and drink, then leave money behind. That kind of experience isn’t in the guide-book.
cr Have you been cooperating with Croatian wineries?
at I have had great cooperation from the Croatian wineries. Winemakers have been very willing to either bring wine in or come in and present the wines themselves at classes I’ve offered. And they always go to great effort to accommodate my groups of travellers,
offering both wonderful hospitality and really VIP-style tours to my guests. In a relatively short period of time I’ve been able to partner up with a handful of wineries and present their wines to my audience. I think we all win when we work together like this. It helps me learn about new wine regions and producers’ styles, and they get exposure to another community of wine lovers.
I’ve learned the hard way that it’s not fun to spend two hours trying to find these cool restaurants that the GPS is convinced are on the other side of the planet.
the international community at present, and I’d like to get the word out to Croatians in Zagreb about what I’m doing, as they may just like to expand their appreciation of wine or hear a new perspective on it – in English of course! With whatever I’m doing, I try to showcase local restaurants and wineries as much as possible, and I’m also doing my best to shine the spotlight on the local cuisine and gastronomy. I feel like I’ve stumbled upon this wonderful opportunity, created my very own niche in the market; I don’t really think there is anybody else doing exactly what I’m doing in this area. In a nutshell I try to offer sommelier-guided classes and travel for people of any and all wine-experience levels. I’m focused on maximising their time, and my best hope is that my customers leave the experience happy, a little buzzed up, and a bit more wine-educated.
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November 3rd – November 16th
culture
The Book That Changed the World
The Faculty of Teacher Education in Zagreb is sponsoring a series of lectures in honour of the 400th Anniversary of the King James Bible on November 10th. We at CR are lucky enough to get an introduction from three of the scholars who will be on hand for the occasion...
Gunpowder, Spittle and Parchment – the Curious Origins of the Greatest English Bible
The Book That Changed the World – The Influence of the King James Bible on English Language and Literature
By Reverend Dr. Richard Major
I
n the spring of 1603, a curious little Scot travelled south to England. He had just become King James VI of Scotland, James I of England. James was bookish and even intellectual without being intelligent: he was nicknamed “the wisest fool in Christendom.” He was a pedant, a bigot and a bore. His court was a morass of intrigue, corruption and depravity. He abused the English constitution, and bequeathed a civil war to his saintly son and successor. Moreover he was ugly; he stammered and he had the unfortunate habit of spitting, which everyone noticed. But one very good thing came out of his scandalous reign. In 1604, James commissioned a revised translation of the Bible. The very phrase King James has come to mean, most often, not the ghastly little monarch, but the glorious book he ordered into existence. Why did he do it? When he arrived in London in 1603, James found the English nation torn into three religious factions. Many people clung to the old Roman Catholic faith; many to the new religion of which Calvin was the prophet. And in the middle was the state Church, neither properly Roman nor decently reformed. All three factions had their own English version of the Bible, and all of these versions were flawed and partisan. James’ idea was to produce a revised translation of such splendid scholarship that it would unite the nation. Did he succeed? Not politically. The Ro-
By Janet Berković
Revd. Dr. Richard Major, originally from New Zealand, gained his doctorate in English Language and Literature before taking an MA in Theology at Oxford University. He has taught in Delhi, Oxford, Bath, Iowa and New York, and has served as a priest in Truro, London, Siena, Washington D.C: and New York. He is married to a diplomat at the US Embassy in Ljubljana, where he currently resides, serving the Anglican chaplaincies of Ljubljana and Zagreb and pursuing teaching and writing projects.
Bible had been translated into 2,527 lanThe King James B guages, while the complete Bible is now availBible – A Milestone able in 459 languages. No other book or piece of literature has been so often translated. In 1550, there were only 14 languages with their Towards Modern own Bible translation. The translation commissioned by King Principles of Bible James I, published in 1611, was a major achievement. It can be claimed that the KJB Translation y the end of 2010, at least one book of the
By Dr. Jutta Henner
T
man Catholics tried to assassinate him and his entire government by blowing up parliament. The Calvinists hated him, and a few decades later rose up, overthrew his dynasty, and killed his son. But the glory of James’ Bible outlasted these disgraces, the gunpowder and the spittle. Incidentally, there is a Croatian connection to all this! In 1616 the Archbishop of Split, Markantun de Dominis (Gospodnetić), a native of the island of Rab, fell out with the Pope, fled to England, and was welcomed (for political reasons) by King James. For a few years he was the Dean of the royal town of Windsor, and if you had gone into the chapel of Windsor Castle, you would have heard the lovely cadences of the King James Bible being read aloud to King James himself - in a strong Croatian accent.
would pass modern Bible translation stand-
ards set by the United Bible Societies – UBS are actually involved in 540 Bible translation projects in 452 languages at present. The KJB used the best available base text for its translation: not the Latin Vulgate, but the original Hebrew and Greek. It was undertaken by the most highly educated translators and scholars of the time, who started and completed the translation as a team project. Compared to the modern average of 12 years needed to complete a full Bible translation, the translators
of the KJB worked quickly: it took them only seven years to accomplish their task. After publication, it had a great impact on the Church and led to spiritual growth. It helped form the modern English language and had a huge impact on society, culture and the arts. Looking deeper into the publication of new Bible translations around the world, one can continuously see parallels to the KJV, its principles and influence. There is, however, a key
his is a bold claim – can it be justified? We need to distinguish between the Bible as an original work and the King James Bible as a literary product. To the latter, we are greatly indebted because it has permeated thoroughly our language and cultural heritage. Factors which led to the unexpected success of the King James Bible include: the historical window of opportunity within the development of Early Modern English in which it was published; the fact that the King James Bible was a culmination of translation endeavours; the political milieu which favoured the monarchical order and gave it prominence over other translations; and its wide distribution in England, America, the colonies, and through missionary work, throughout the world. The King James Bible has had a lasting influence on the English language because of a) the simplicity of its language, b) the introduction of hundreds of new words and phrases literally translated from the Hebrew and Greek, at first unfamiliar, but quickly assimilated, c) the introduction of metaphors, via verbal equivalence, which have entered the vernacular and popular imagination, d) its inherently aphoristic, therefore memorable expressions, e) its dual purpose as a crossover text, written to be read and heard. It has been described as a “book-making book”. It has served as a source (of things to write about) and an influence (on the way
things are written about) through four centuries. It has been a major informing influence on literary symbolism. The works of Jacobean, Restoration, Romantic and Victorian writers draw heavily on Bible themes, quotations and allusions. In the 20th century, it has been the repository of points of reference, images and allusions, the most pervasive sourcebook for authors, whether religious or secular. It has been praised as a manual of good style. Today, its archaisms may be off-putting, yet the fact that 400 years on, the King James Bible is today still within walking distance of native speakers (and perhaps jogging distance of speakers of English as a second language) indicates its enduring ability to stimulate, as T.S. Eliot said, the “auditory imagination”. It should not be relegated to becoming a museum exhibit or simply to feed a particularly British obsession with word-play and puns.
difference: nowadays politicians and kings rarely commission a Bible translation! Whatever his reasons, King James invited church
leaders to Hampton Court in 1604 – and the KJV turned out to be a blessing for the Church and societies around the world.
Janet Berković studied English Language and Literature at Oxford University. She has spent most of her working life making the Bible accessible to children and young people through Scripture Union Croatia, writing textbooks for Religious Education in primary schools and training RE teachers. She lives in Zagreb and is a freelance translator and teacher of English.
Dr. Jutta Henner was born in Stuttgart and studied theology at the universities of Tübingen and Vienna, where she specialised in the Bible and Ecumenism. She is part-time Professor of Biblical Theology at the ecumenical University College for Teacher Education in Vienna and is a member of the Synod and Theological Committee of the Lutheran Church in Austria. She has been the Director of the Austrian Bible Society since 1996.
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good stuff
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November 3rd – November 16th
Fridays after midnight...
Sirup goes wild!
“Martin je u Zagrebu” – Martinje in Zagreb
O
ne of the most beloved annual traditions in the city of Zagreb will be celebrated this year from November 3rd until the 13th. It’s the eleventh consecutive year that Mayor Milan Bandić and Grad Zagreb have given over the main square, Trg Bana Jelačića, in the service of promoting Croatian winemakers and domestic wines. This year some 40 winemakers from Zagreb County, including the large wine producers Belje, Iločki Cellars, Laguna and Mladina, are expected to show off their best bottles in the central festival tent. Flock to the tent for culinary and cultural programmes, too, and catch a number of clubs and bands performing on the nearby stage. Above all, do not pass up the opportunity to enjoy a glass or two of mulled wine (kuhano vino)...in honour of St. Martin, of course.
The Feast of St. Martin in Momjan
S
t. Martin was, is (and we hope always will be) the patron saint of the Istrian municipality of Momjan. Going by the logic that it’s always best to celebrate feast days where they really, really matter, it’s fair to say that Momjan is the place to be this Martinje. The town is famous to connoisseurs of Istrian wine for
House of Croatian Wines
Z
astavnice 13c/10251 Hrvatski Leskovac/ Zagreb – It’s unassuming enough from the street, situated in a quiet neighbourhood in the southwest of Zagreb, but the House of Croatian Wines (Kuća hrvatskih vina) arguably boasts the best collection of domestic wines in the entire country. The House of Croatian Wines was founded in November 2008, with the idea of uniting the products of top winemakers from all of Croatia’s wine-producing regions under one roof. The 250- square-metre showroom is usefully divided into rooms celebrating the flavours, tra-
ditional local handicrafts – and yes, wines – of four regions: Istria, Dalmatia, Slavonia and Central Croatia. Over 1600 wines are in stock for guests to ogle, try, buy – and the helpful staff are only too good at putting together gift baskets incorporating souvenirs and various liqueurs and olive oils. If gifting wine this holiday season, a trip to the House of Croatian Wines or their online web shop is simply a must. Or perhaps gather a group of friends for a tasting in the charming, traditionallydecorated konoba at the rear of the property. A session involving 5-7 different wines and copious amounts of cheese, bread and prsutto runs can be arranged for a price that beats tastings at most wineries. Sample the fruits of all of Croatia’s wine regions; there’s no need to travel far at all. To arrange a private tasting session, call 01/6557-555.
its Muscat, a white grape variety which grows in a very limited area, specifically at an altitude of 200 to 350 m. The Muscat of Momjan, with its golden colour, floral scent and supposedly aphrodisiacal effects, will be flowing freely from November 11th to 13th. The Momjan area will be flooded with local winemakers (some dressed as MUSCATeers) offering tastings of their young wines as part of the International Muscat Exhibition, which additionally features famed winemakers from elsewhere in Istria, Slovenia and Italy. For more information, consult the good folks of the local tourist bureau: www.istria-buje-buie.com.
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November 3rd – November 16th
to do list
November 3rd - November 16th Kiril Džajkovski feat. Ghetto Priest Pioneer of ethno-electric music
November 3rd / 21:30 h Club Aquarius, Zagreb
Dubrovnik Symphonic Orchestra A classical concert in an historic setting
November 3rd / 20:00 h Fort Revelin, Dubrovnik
“Kočani orkestar” Macedonian gypsy brass band
November 4th / 21:00 h Boogaloo Club, Zagreb
Hockey Match KHL Medveščak Zagreb - EC Red Bull Salzburg
November 4th / 19:50 h Dom sportova, Zagreb
Croatian Blues Challenge A must see “old-school” festival
November 4th - November 6th Hard Place, Zagreb
Truffle Weekend In celebration of this gastro delicacy...
November 5th & 6th Buzet
Ivo Pogorelić & The Zagreb Philharmonic The ultimate classic of the classical
November 6th / 19:30 h K.D. Vatroslav Lisinski, Zagreb
Days of French Culture (xviii edition) An Evening of the French chanson
November 6th / 19:30 h HNK, Split
Rammstein + Deathstars Neue Deutsche Härte Band from Berlin
November 8th / 20:00 h Arena, Zagreb
Interliber Fair The biggest Croatian book fair
November 8th - 13th Velesajam Fairgrounds, Zagreb
Vip Zagreb Jazz Festival - McCoy Tyner Trio feat. Jose James & Chris Potter
November 10th / 20:00 h SC Kino, Zagreb
Brecht - Weill The Threepenny Opera
November 14th / 19:30 h HNK Ivan pl. Zajc, Rijeka
Martinje: Feast of St. Martin Baptise the young wine... and drink some
November 11th - 13th Buje
The Human League English electronic/new wave
November 12th / 21:00 h Tvornica kulture, Zagreb
4. Noche de la música en espanol Latin beats, as the name would suggest...
November 16th / 20:00 h Sax!, Zagreb
Lord of the Dance Flatley’s troupe is still rheeling...
November 16th / 20:00 h Gradska sportska dvorana, Varaždin
Lenny Kravitz King of rock these days? You be the judge.
November 17th / 20:00 h Arena, Zagreb
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