CONCEPT REPORT BY Arayner Aisha. London College Of Fashion 2012.
CONTENTS 1. Ethos and Values 2. The Concept 2.1 Concealment 2.2 Beyond the Veil 2.3. The issues of Visibility 3. TOTEMS Consumer 3.1. Understanding the Consumer 4. 360’s Questionnaire Results 4.1 Concealed and Revealed Identity (A) 4.2 Covered dress in Society (B) 5. Analysis Of results 5.1. Fashion and Identity within Modesty (C) 6. Identifying the Modest Market 7. 360 Customer Profile 8. Young Creatives 8.1 Case study 9. The Current Market 9.1. Macro Environment 9.2. PEST Analysis 9.3. Competition S.W.O.T Analysis 9.4. Micro Environment 9.5. Marketing plan for year one 10. 360 S.W.O.T analysis 11. The 4 P’s 12. 360 for TOTEM production chain 13. Logo Development 14. Modest Design Constraints 15. Design Inspiration 15.1 Fabrics 15.2 Colours 15.3 Print experimentation 16. Evaluation 17. Bibliography
360 ETHOS & VALUES 1. 360 is a conceptual range developed by Graduate Arayner Aisha through the universal umbrella of Identity. 360 focus on the care of their partners through its product and high standards of equal opportunity. To support the community and ensure equality on a global approach, 360 take pride in committing to build on this consumption of clothing that identifies us as nationals.
THE CONCEPT
2. 360’s initial research examines the representations of equality behind the body and concealment, analysing faith based fashion with a 'Modest' approach. They do not focus on a for or against argument on the standards of modest dress; they aim to understand the influences concealed dress has both on the wearers and society. This report addresses the most extreme enforcements of modesty laws and also examines western perceptions of Modesty. A series of research methods were developed in order to establish how the Islamic veil can be desirable to some and intolerable to others.
CONCEALMENT
2.1. In the western world, the body is used as a canvas to express individuality and covering parts of the body is generally seen as an individual right. Ignoring stigma's attached to indecency or nudity, democratic societies generally embrace simple forms of covering, on a lower spectrum of modesty. Where individuals choose to conceal parts of their bodies, it is often in response to insecurities fuelled by mainstream media ideologies of beauty. Elsewhere and often in the hottest parts of the world, more extreme forms of covering are a daily routine, such as in the Middle east, Asia and parts of Africa. This covering may be due to religious beliefs or cultural traditions. Particularly however, recent debate has focussed on Muslim women and their chosen attire.
" ‌. from shawls and headscarves to face veils and full head-to-toe coverings‌ these have long been the key trope to which Muslim women's Identity has been defined and imagined by non-muslims in the West." (Tarlo, 2010)
BEYOND THE
“The veil to some is the uniform of oppression, but why for many millions of women has it become a powerful symbol of political liberation:� (Ahmed, S. 2010) 2.2. Younger Muslim women are now wearing the veil by choice unlike their elders, these women are conveying the veil as a political statement of Identity. Using creativity as a platform, 360 reveal the development of Identity that allows an expression of individuality and concerns on representations of equality. With young creatives at the for front of modest fashion development in the UK, the emergence of a niche market has been created, and the 360 range reflect these concepts of covered dress within the fashion community.
The Issues Of Visibility 2.3. Specifically to western eyes, the veil represents the concealment of female identity from public view in contrast to a society that are used to adorning their faces for viewing as an expression of self. It is therefore hard for some to understand why Muslim women might choose to wear a veil. It is a common argument that such Islamic practices, render women invisible and disempower them, therefore they are seen as non-egalitarian. For countries such as France that prides itself with the principle of equality, some might argue that they are suppressing this right of religious identity, through the banning of the Burka.
Fig. 1. Muslim Girl demonstrating against French Burka Ban (WSJ, 2011)
REF. DAILY MAIL [ISLAMIC WOMEN IN BRITAIN] 05.09.10
TOTEM’s Consumer ....
New Brits / Young 3. The New Brits are aged 21-36. TOTEM carried out 200 questionnaires based on individuals Values and Lifestyles. To gain responses about peoples representations of life, the results analysed have backed the idea of opening a concept store around the chosen theme of Identity. This store is aimed at a market of New Brits and Young Creatives. (See TOTEM report, pg. 33-34)
“She wants to achieve, she has big ideas and future prospects. Everything that’s thrown at her she will be manipulated and used to her advantage.”
“She is Pragmatic and also realistic, her role models are not the most idealised figures but are common people who believe in small possible dreams.”
UNDERSTANDING THE CONSUMER
3.1. Specifically in reference to the veil, 360 carried out research methods targeting 40 New Brits/Young creatives aged between 21 - 36. This research was to assess whether the potential TOTEM consumers are socially aware of the representations of covered dress. The questions were designed to discover: 1) How aware are people of the social effects of covered dress? 2) What was the general response to frances Burka ban? 3) Analysising the responses to modest apparel within the fashion retail market These results assist in determining ways of re-inventing ‘Modesty’ through to fashion realisation.
4. 360’s CUSTOMER QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS 4.1. CONCEALED AND REVEALED IDENTITY - (A) What do you What are the first consider shapes impressions that you get your Identity? from this image?
Consumer A aged 25
Culture and Environment
Consumer B aged 21
Music and the Arts
Consumer C aged 21
My Identity is my Religon! Without it I wouldn’t know who I was!
Consumer D aged 28
Family Society Politics Religion
Contrast between western culture of freedom & self expression against an old mind state of dictatorship & opression. I get the impression this women has a husband that controls her as its the mans decision what their wife should wear. It makes me feel really sad. I see a free women, a women who is covered because she is trying to get closer to her lord. A women who doesn’t feel like she has to mould herself to try and fit society and be accepted by the people living in it…..! Freedom of expression I don’t agree with either expression as there is too much excess expression in either direction. The image is deliberately designed to shock and provoke the viewer into identifying with either image or arguing against either.
“Picture human silhouettes covered up with long garments, running away from riot police in full gear” (N.Arikha, 2011)
4.2. COVERED DRESS IN SOCIETY - (B)
What do you consider shapes your Identity?
Consumer E aged 35
Culture
Consumer F aged 25
Culture and Environment
Consumer G aged 37
My Culture
Yes. In Western society full-face exposure features as part of the social conventions. Doing otherwise in such an environment engenders mistrust and suspicion, creating separatism which could lead to a breakdown of social controls. No. the wearing of a burqa does not infringe on a country’s values. Any country that tries to limit religious expression is walking a road that leads to genocide and holocaust. It is better to enter walk into a dialogue rather than retreat into fear. Yes an No. Yes because its hiding someone’s identity, an pretty much restricts them from communicating. No because if thats the individuals choice to wear it then they should not be restricted by rules, its part of there culture.
5. ANALYSIS The responses to questions, (A) and (B) were indeed expected, but were also quite diverse. Everybody had a strong opinion and almost no one had nothing to say.
Question (A)
Question (B)
Confirm that the majority of people were at ease with the revealment of the body and seemed to only focus on the covered woman.
Reveals that the ban is another example of the continuous battle between people and society. Some see wearing of the veil as a barrier towards the fundamental principal of communication, others seem keen to express their anger towards a liberal democracies expectations to suppress the expression of religious Identity.
They are aware of the social implications of covering, however for some, this difference in appearance has formed a bleak understanding of oppression around muslim women.
However, the ban has also been seen as an enforcement to the right in the French regaining cultural Identity.
Both questionnaires confirm that there is a visible link between the individuals response to Identity and their views towards Covered dress. With help from the New culturalist customer, 360’s goals are too make people more aware of the diversities within concealed dress and these results confirm that it is neccessary to do so.
It is also key for 360 to communicate to the public, why women choose to dress covered. This social responsibilty is to help society understand and slowly break down cultural stereotypes formed by dress. In addition to the results, it was important to discover what retailers the New Brits can relate to in comparison to TOTEM’s key competitors. (See TOTEM Report, pg. 19)
5.1. FASHION AND IDENTITY WITHIN MODESTY (C) Further questions were conducted with 4 modest dressed women within the creative industries in order to find out how they identify with the current fashion retail market.
WHICH FASHION RETAILER BEST DESCRIBES YOUR IDENTITY? The responses: “Well very hard although I am modestly dressed I also wear whatever I want underneath my outer garments but it tends to be whatever whenever. (hard question lol)” - Rachel Aliya Guthrie, aged 21 “None. I have not identified with today’s designers.They appear to rely on shock factor rather than genuine vision” - Abigail Jenaasa, aged 24 “As I fully cover up, except for my face (yet) with a jilbaab, (long wide black material that goes over my body) I like to feel like I can put my identity across through the bags and shoes/trainers I wear which show my style in a up most respective way.” - Kaltoum Ismail, aged 22 “i don think any specifically fit my identity, my look resembles how i feel, i’ve always been a creative person and i express that in my clothing so i may take items from various high street shops and create my own style/look. My Fashion Identity is being different and not being afraid to try new looks.” - Yasmin Knox, aged 21
The responses were very diverse, but clear to note that none of the women identified with the current fashion retail market. These results reveal 360’s platform of development for creative expressions through concealed dress. [Refer to 360 Appendice 3 for further results.]
FASHION AND IDENTITY WITHIN MODESTY The results refine the idea of developing the beauty behind the mind set of dressing modestly and expressing it visually through the 360 collection. With many modest dress women being unable to identify with what is on the highstreet, this has left a gap for 360 to design covered dress that represents these individual’s identities. For future market research it would be wise to use more concept visuals which will initiate diverse responses and perhaps go more in-depth into the consumers shopping habits.
MODEST APPAREL MAINSTREAM FOCUS GROUP RECORDED 2/11/11 [Refer to 360 Appendice 3]
HOW WOULD YOU FEEL ABOUT A NEW CLOTHING RANGE BEING LAUNCHED FOR FASHION FORWARD FEMALES THAT WISH TO DRESS MODESTY?
A - "I think that is a great idea‌I have a lot of friends that have fun dressing covered but find it challenging to find clothes that are suitable to there regulations.. it will be very interesting to see that approach"
IDENTIFYING THE FASHION MODESTY MARKET. 6. Identifying modest dressed females to establish a 360 consumer profile. In contrast to the Muslim attire being a controversial debate, the amount of young women choosing to dress modestly in accordance to their faith is growing rapidly across the Globe. With designers such as Hana Tajima, being at the for front of modest fashion development in the UK, these women have created a niche market where the online media spheres are the filters for all topics.
“Whatever the look, hijabistas share one style principle: This is not their mother’s head scarf – conservative, plain, and a little too formless.”. (Haung, C., 2009.) “Hijabista” is the name given to these Young Creatives, the name stems from the traditional muslim head scarf the “Hijab”. These women have created inter-faith like communities with the secular world where they identify and share the same concern of female representation, and desires of wanting to be visually and spiritually expressive through fashion. [Refer to 360 Appendice 3]
THE HIJABISTA.
Young
8. The NEW BRITS/ NEW CULTURALISTS are 360’s realistic consumer, who are most able to afford to shop at the TOTEM store, specifically because of their age range. However, it is the young creatives who are the brains behind the design strategies within modest apparel development. The 360 design and lifestyle aesthetic will be inspired by these young creatives.
Attempting to break down constructed stereotypes of there lifestyle, they are readily energised to show that they are not just an over sexualised, careless young females.
They aspire to become part of the leadership in change as they are apart of a generation with fundamental commonalities that transcend borders.
Hana Tajima Simpson CASE STUDY. 8.1
23 years old Muslim convert for 5 years Japanese father and English mother, her culture and religion shapes her identity
During her conversion found it hard to find Modest clothes that showed her individuality. Didn't study fashion and never really got along with formal education.
Translated runway looks from western designers into modest but highly chic ensembles. Her first fashion blog Style Covered is number one on the list within the UK Fashion modest community.
She transformed knee-length dresses and sleeveless tops into a hijabistas dream come true with a bit of creativity. From mod to minimalist, bohemian to vintage, and retro to raggae, she has made it possible for there to be a style to suit every individual.
She is an entrepeneaur..... Head designer and Director of Fashion label, MAYSAA [Refer to 360 Appendice 5 for full interview with Hana]
"The thought that there can be a protection and practicality, but also a subtle, infinitely deep beauty in a garment is an incredible platform for creativity. The best design is when you can't separate the two elements; style and modesty. Compromise shows up in a design, it's not good." - Hana Tajima-Simpson
"Smaller brands are adopting a global approach to drive their expansion, particularly as e-commerce offers increasing opportunities to sell products" (Lewis, R. 2011)
Micro Environment
9.4. The Markets for modest clothing have emerged through online interactions. With merely all the modest generation online retailers originating from a faith community, a perceptual map was recorded to assess how 360 fit into this market.
Fashion Forward THE GAP! MODEST APPAREL THAT IS FASHION FORWARD INSPIRED BY SOCIAL INFLUENCES....
Religious Influence
Social Influence
Conservative
The modest retailers seem to have a specific religious ethos which can isolate non religious women from identifying with them. For labels such as Aab, their ethos focuses on a balance of religious belief and social influence, but this fails to communicate with a variety of customers outside the faith groups. Maysaa have accomplished the art of combining modesty with style and social awareness but lack in fashion diversity, this leaves a gap for 360 to fill.
[Refer to 360 Appendice 5 for full Modest Retail information]
DESIGN CONCEPT 360:
The representation of
Identity behind the body and concealment.
14.
360 MODEST DESIGN CONSTRAINTS
360 follow a design asthetic that makes each garment appeal to a variety of women. Each piece is designed to follow a modest approach, but can also be styled with fewer layers to express an individuals desired look.
Hips and bum are also covered dressing with layers or loose fitting garments. The waistline is often enhanced by garment shapes thus allowing a feminine sillouette.
Do not have to wear a head scarf to be considered Modest. However some women feel it is essential for religious purposes, and others feature the headscarf as a fashion accessory.
Modest dressed women in most cases do not allow cleavage to be shown, so avoid low necklines or tight fitting tops. In this case layering has been used to camouflage the bust area.
Arms are often fully covered, sleeves can be tight fitting or even just below elbow length.
Skirts and Trousers are at most times full length. Garments that fall just after knee length are also suitable for Modest dressers that are less strict.
Refer to 360 Appendice 7
WE LIVE...WE CREATE...IT’S OUR TIME...
THE YOUNG CREATIVES/NEW CULTURALISTS ARE BRITAINS NOMADIC COMMUNITY. The way one chooses to dress reflects their chosen Identity. In Britain (and globally) today, the main forms of identity are expressed through Religion, Social mediums and political beliefs. 360 aim to combined these elements by enhancing them through fashion and culture. The first introduction to the 360 label, identifies a concern of female representation and covered dress within society today. The Concept explores global practices that adopt the concealment of Identity to de-ttach themselves from social sigma’s of acceptance and beauty. 360 reveal a 360 degree representation of covered dress influenced by social, political and religious angles of IDENTITY across New Britain.
f O m o d e e r F e r y t i a t n e e d “W I f o m o d e e r F A c ; n n e o u i l f s n s i ly d l r Expre o w m o r f d e p o l f o s deve r a e y h g u o r h t s e ” . n o i t a r g inter - 360
360 - MEDIATING MODESTY
GLOBAL NOMADIC LIFESTYLES me, but s ll te ty ie rld. You hat soc o w w l o a d r ’t tu n a en ‘I do ules of th to obey it r e e v a th h w t s o ju I do foll mpletely. re so you o c tu a n t a e can’t b en I came h w d e n r at I lea why I ‘That’s wh d that’s probably here, an well.’ get by so
Ironically Mr Nagasaki says he spent years in the limelight working in the entertainment industry before he decided to get far away from civilisation.
REF: Mr. Nagasaki Daily Mail , 17/04/12
360 - MEDIATING MODESTY
BRITAINS NOMADIC PEOPLE
THE YOUNG
WE ARE IDENTITY. As representitives of social, political and religious identities, the Y.C’s use fashion to express personalities and to REPRESENT their beliefs. The Y.C’s have a 360 degree outlook on “modest’ dress, and embrace multifarious identites taken from underground lifestyle and culture within Britain. They evolve through travel and exploration, and constantly re-create the element of covered dress as a statement of liberated female Identity. The ‘Hijabista’ is a modern day example of a young creative (see appendix). But 360 aim to develop and expand their movement to a wider consumer market. 360 visually explore these elements, to reinvent covered dress based upon the hyper culture of the young creatives within Britain...
360 - MEDIATING MODESTY
The YOUNG CREATIVES [CONSUMER PROFILING]
Attempting to break down constructed stereotypes of their lifestyle, they are readily energised to show that they are not just over sexualised, careless young females. They aspire to become part of the leadership in change as they are apart of a generation with fundamental commonalities that transcend borders.
A Young Creative, on a life long journey of self discovery.
Left in an uncompromising position, where she is involved in a constant battle of defining a multifarious
IDENTITY.
“She is Pragmatic and also realistic. Her role models are not the most idealised figures but are people who believe in pushing boundaries to make dreams possible.� The mind, body and spirit dominates her intellectual discoveries as she travels to seek
worldly influences.....
360 - MEDIATING MODESTY
THE 360 RE-INVENTION OF COVERED DRESS A RE-INVENTION OF COVERED DRESS The 360 signature appears as
organised randomness which is a fusion depicted upon elements of
Nomadic lifestyles that have no fixed identity but share commonalities of rebellion and exploration.
The Identity of 360 captures a
STYLE that is
not recognised as a mainstream specific. It is a fusion of layered textures and colours, expressing
multifarious identities.
360 - MEDIATING MODESTY
THE HYPER IDENTITY of 360
360 - MEDIATING MODESTY
ESTABLISHING DESIGN LANGUAGE initial designs analysing sillouhettes and layering
Mathew Aimes Encens Magazine
Mathew Aimes Encens Magazine
POP GREEN
POP PINK POP BLUE
MONO TONE
COLOUR||PRINT||FABRIC
360
Experimentation
expression
is all about identity and , it chooses to inspect on the fact of why we choose to wear what we do, and look for the purpose of how this
relates to our identity.
Covered dress is seen as a representation of hiding identity, 360 choose to reverse this ideology through colour representation. The colours people choose to wear reflects their personalities, so the 360 colour palette features pastel
POP colours that express the Vibrance
THE YOUNG CREATIVE IDENTITY and the bold statement of re-invention 360 aim to bring to the modest apparel market. of the label,
These colours subject against a monotone backdrop which expresses a modest colour balance tot he collection! This also gives the consumer practicality which make the products wearable.
360 - MEDIATING MODESTY
PRINT INSPIRATION
COLOUR||PRINT||FABRIC
360 - MEDIATING MODESTY
PRINT INSPIRATION WE FLIP IT, WE PRINT IT, WE SHOW IT
Covering the hair is the most common sign of modesty
MOST MODEST DRESSERS BELIEVE THAT COVERING YOUR HAIR IS THE 1ST SIGN OF MODESTY AS YOUR HAIR IS YOUR MOST BEAUTIFUL ASSET. UNLIKE THE STEREOTYPE “HIJABISTA” THE 360 Y.C’S REPRESENT STATEMENT FASHION
360 REVERSE THIS IDEA
360 -
PRINT DESIGN PREVIEWS
11.
PRODUCTION
As retailers are at the heart of consumerism, they have a responsibility to set targets in reducing their carbon footprint. Fair trade plays an equal role in the market environment where consumers tend to want to know the origins of their purchases. This will be just one of the main ethics used within the 360 range.
As one of the main competitors of 360, MAYSAA is known for its aim at a market who care for the birth of their product: " A pioneer not only in fashion but in social responsibility MAYSAA is aiming to set an industry standard where people and environment from design to delivery are cared for" (MAYSAA, 2011) It is important to recognise these assets, as fair-trade and ethical standards have become a fundamental attraction for the modest and Premium Market.
PREMIUM QUALITY “…the use of better materials and craftsmanship is the ultimate element which makes premium brands more desirable... highlighting that most consumers think that a luxury label provides a trustworthy guarantee of superior quality” - (Mintel consumer attitudes towards luxury market 2011)
10.
STRENGTHS
WEAKENESSES
- At an advantage with regards to finding an expanding niche market - Able to deliver the criteria for a wide consumer category that hold the same values - Have the knowledge and support structure to offer reliable customer support for in store, online and backstage operations - Innovative customer campaigning - Price points reflect the promotion of ethics, craftmanship, design, service and quality - Able to build customer relationships through social engagement
- Supply chain not fully ethical within the 1st year of production - Strong competiton from more accessible and cheaper retailers - Price points may be seen as too high for potential customers - Lack of brand recognition
OPPORTUNITY
THREATS
- A niche market has developed for modest clothing through online interaction. - To drive expansion on a global approach through the development of technology and wifi portable devices - Brand ensure to achieve full ethical supply chain within the 5 year plan - To recognise social influence and connectivity through consumer Lifestyle inspiration - To capture a broader market where modest competitors are left vulnerable
- The growth of the Modest market is making the market more competitive - TOTEM store may not recieve the popularity intended when store space opens. - A move to online consuming leading to a decline in store visits and social interaction.
PRODUCT
360 offer a range of 6 quality pieces that encompass the values of the New Culturalist shopper. Consumer and marketing research shows that there is a demand for expression and difference within the modest apparel market [Refer to 360 appendice 5]. There is also a gap for socially influenced fashion within the mainstream sector, these factors can be achieved through the the influence of the 360 store and the design aesthetc. Premium quality of the range is also key, “Behind-the-scenes and how-it-was-made content will be as appealing as the finished products” (Marshall, R. WGSN 07/09/11) Initially the collection will be available from sizes 8-14, as consumer research shows that these are the most popular sizes in the retail sector. 360 do plan to extend to size 18-20 in the near future.
PRICE
PLACE
360 aim to open an interactive concept store located in a thriving social community area.
Based on competitive research and price archetecture, the 360 range will hold price points in relative comparison to All saints. Basics From - £50 Highest price to £400
The popularity for e-commerce is essential in producing the conditions for making this niche market Premium quality and ethics all play a key role in the price margins of possible to expand in its current rate. Also the medium of the internet creates new opportunities for the range. women to express there ideas about modest dressing. Therefore an online store is essential for the production and development of 360. PROMOTION A series of events and advertisements will help gain awareness of the 360 label, and the main source of promotion will be through social media. This has responded as an ideological marketing device which can assist 360 in becoming a popular label within the modest apparel market.