Boat Licence Traning handbook by Archie's Boat Licence Training Centre

About This Handbook This handbook has been produced as a companion to the lectures in our training school and for On-Line Training. This handbook is not intended to be absolutely definitive, nor is it a substitute for the published government regulations, it is Archie’s Boat Licence Training Centre’s course handbook including the Boatsafe Standard. This handbook also contains some tips and advice for happy and safe boating that you won’t find in any textbook. Information in this handbook has been obtained from our Instructors own vast and varied knowledge, Maritime Safety Queensland, Small Ships Manual, guide to Recreational Boating & Fishing in Queensland, The Boatsafe Handbook and The Australian Boating Manual.

First Published Second Edition Third Edition Fourth Edition Fifth Edition Sixth Edition Seventh Edition

1995 1996 1997 1998 2000 2001 2002

Eighth edition Ninth Edition Tenth Edition Eleventh Edition Twelfth Edition Thirteenth Edition Fourteenth Edition Fifteenth Edition

2004 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2015

Copyright © 2014 Archie’s Boat Licence Training Centre Australia Pty. Ltd. This work is copyright. Apart from any use permitted under the Copyright Act 1968, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored, transmitted or used in any other way without the written permission of the copyright owner.

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Contents Licencing – 3C’s of Boating – General Safety Obligation Language of Boating-Hull Types-Direction on Board-Nautical Terms Trip Planning - Role of the Skipper Pre - Trip Plan & Boat Pre-Departure Checklist Trailers: Vehicle Towing Tips & Trailer Maintenance Launching & Retrieving Routine Checks for Mechanical & Electrical Components Batteries – Trimming the Boat A guide to Boat & Motor Maintenance Manoeuvring & Berthing Tides Navigation Speed-Time & Distance Calculations Chart - Partial Moreton Bay Chart Legend Buoys & Beacon Lateral Marks Special Mark Isolated Danger Mark – Safe Water Mark Cardinal Marks Night Navigation GPS Weather Navigation Lights & Daymarks Lead Lights Marine Radio Fire The International Regulations for Preventing Collisions at Sea Speed Limits Bar Crossing Australian Builders Plate & Capacity Label Water Classification Safety Equipment Sound Signals Water Skiing Signal Flags Anchors Alcohol and Safe Boating First-Aid & Hypothermia Registration Marine Incident Reporting Insurance – Club Marine Voucher Moreton Bay Marine Parks Heritage Wrecks & Exotic Weeds Marine Pollution Garbage Oil & Chemical Pollution Sewage Management Noise Pollution Management Knots Coastguard & Volunteer Marine Rescue Groups Authority on the Waterway

4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12-13-14-15 16-17 18-19-20-21 22-23-24 25 26 27 28-29-30 31 32 33-34 35-36 37 38-39-40-41 42-43-44-45-46-47-48 49 50-51-52 53-54 55-56-57 58 59 60 61 62-63-64-65-66-67-68 69 69-70 71-72 73-74-75 76 77-78 78 79 79 80-81-82 82 83 84 85 85 86 87 87

Always be prepared for the Unexpected Morse and Phonetic Alphabet Nautical Terms and their Meanings

88 90 91-92

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Licencing For Recreational Boats In Queensland, licences are currently required when operating a vessel powered by a motor of greater than 6hp (4.5 KW). Applicant must be 16 years or older. Valid licences include: Recreational Marine Drivers Recreational Ship Masters Licence Speed Boat Licence Current commercial marine licence – example Coxswain Current Small Vessel Operators Certificate (to operate a fishing ship less than 10m in length issued by Qld Fishing Industry Training Council) Current Interstate Boating Licence (Excluding junior licences) PWC Licence Licences are issued for a lifetime in Queensland. A paper licence is not issued as details are attached to a person’s details in the driver’s licence database. Confirmation reports are can be obtained for a fee and should be carried when boating interstate. An unlicensed person may operate a recreational vessel provided a suitable licensed driver is on board and able to take immediate control. However, unlicensed persons may NOT operate a vessel, which is towing a person such as a water skier. You will have 6 months from the day you attended our course to present your Statement of Competency to a Qld Transport Customer Service Centre and pay the prescribed fee. THE STATEMENT OF COMPETENCY IS NOT A LICENCE. Licence Suspension: A Marine Licence may be cancelled or suspended if the holder of a marine licence accrues three or more safety infringements or a drink driving offence.

Commonsense-Care-Courtesy Commonsense All activities on your vessel become your responsibility so drive sensibly and you’ll arrive safely Care Great care should be taken when manoeuvring your vessel near other water way users, either near the shore or out in the ocean. Care about the environment as well as your fellow boaties. Courtesy Boat ramp etiquette should be maintained when launching your vessel. Patience is the key! Follow these three important steps when you’re boating and you’ll have a safe journey each and every time you’re out on the water.

The General Safety Obligation The owner and master of every vessel have an obligation to ensure that the vessel has the highest level of safety; this can be achieved by making sure the vessel is: Failure to meet this obligation could lead to prosecution   

SAFE PROPERLY EQUIPPED AND CREWED OPERATED IN A SAFE MANNER

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The Language Of Boating Hull Types Displacement Hulls are boats that push through the water as they have no hydrodynamic lift, or the boat does not rise out of the water as speed increases. They have good directional stability and good stability in loading. Types of this craft are yachts, tugs, sailboats catamarans and trawlers. When a planing hull is either not moving or going very slowly, it is, in effect, a displacement hull. As power and speed increase, a planing hull lifts itself up on top of its own bow wave and this causes the boat to displace much less water. As a result, there is much less wetted surface on the hull bottom, meaning less friction as well. The speed of the boat will now increase at a great rate, the more horsepower added the faster the boat will go. Types of this craft are your powerboats, family runabouts, and ski boats.

Displacement Hull

Planing Hull

Directions On Board

Bollard

Stern Bow Starboard Side

Hull

Port Side Fender

Transom

Nautical Terms A NAUTICAL MILE is the universal measurement of Distance at Sea: One nautical mile = 1852 Metres A KNOT is the universal measurement of Speed at Sea: One Knot is One Nautical Mile per hour ÂŠ

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Trip Planning - Role Of The Skipper AUTHORITY It is your authority that maintains good order on the vessel. NOTE: The owner of a recreational boat must verify that a person who is to be the master of a vessel holds an appropriate licence to operate the vessel. CREW & GUESTS You are responsible for the Conduct, Care and Comfort of your guests. Be sure to let your guests know what you expect from them, especially when it comes to them lending your assistance. Be explicit, explain in detail what help you will need, for example when you are coming along to a mooring explain well before hand as to how you may want them to secure your vessel to that mooring. BE AWARE OF POTENTIAL DANGERS Many potential dangers are featured on the charts, study your charts and get to know areas that you may have to avoid. Weather is a potential danger to consider, other boaties are a potential danger, always keep a proper lookout at all times even you if have a GPS system running. WEATHER A good boatie will always get a reliable updated weather forecast before they venture out on the water. ALCOHOL Keep alcohol consumption within the legal limits, and keep an eye on your crew and guests limits, always remember the sun and the motion of the vessel will heighten the effect of alcohol on the body. NOISE Don’t allow noise from your boat to spoil the pleasure of other people on the land or on the water. SEA-SICKNESS Taking care of your guests and crew and their medical needs is part of your general safety obligation. KNOW YOUR BOAT You should be aware of all your boat’s handling characteristics and limitations. Know how much fuel your boat uses and ensure you carry an adequate reserve. Within the limits of your technical abilities, you should do as much of your own maintenance as possible. You should be able to: Change the fuel filter and primer bowl Check for spark Change the propeller

Clean and change spark plugs Check and replace fuse’s Clean battery terminals

ENSURE REVELANT CHARTS ARE ON BOARD Excellent charts are available from most marine stores and students are particularly directed to Maritime Safety Queensland’s Beacon to Beacon Directory. CHECK SEAWORTHINESS Regularly perform maintenance checks on your boat and trailer. Many small problems can be fixed quite cheaply if the repair is undertaken as soon as the problem becomes evident. Pay particular attention to the electrical system to ensure corrosion is not accumulating on terminals and connections. LET SOMEONE KNOW BEFORE YOU GO Let someone such as a friend, family or neighbours know where you are going and when you’ll return. You can also give the same information to the Volunteer Marine Rescue stations via your marine radio. CARRY DRY WARM CLOTHING Put an old tracksuit in a plastic bag and tie a knot in the neck. This will ensure the bag will float and the clothing is mildew free when required. SLIP – SLOP – SLAP – AND SLIDE Take pre-emptive action to avoid sunburn and ensure all on board, especially children, are wearing 100% UV reduction sunglasses. CARRY ADEQUATE FOOD AND WATER Plenty of boaties have had to spend a night on the beach due to mechanical failure – a dry biscuit and a drink of water would be very welcome. ©

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Pre - Trip Plan Each time you go boating have a Trip Plan in place even if it’s only a small outing. Know your destination and how to get there and back. Your plan should include: Where you intend going Expected time of return The names and telephone numbers of people on board A list of safety equipment carried Where you intend to launch A description of your boat Your boat, car and trailer registration numbers What to do if you do not return at the time planned (call someone who knew where you were going or if you are in difficulty, call a rescue group or water police and have these numbers lodged in your mobile.) Amount of fuel to be carried (use the Time – Speed – Distance Triangle on page 69) Always allow extra fuel for the unexpected ( rougher sea conditions on your return journey) 1/3 fuel to reach destination - 1/3 fuel to return home - 1/3 fuel in reserve for the unexpected.

Trip Time = Distance Speed

e.g.

20 Nautical Miles 20 knots per/hour = 1 hour If my vessel has a cruising speed of 20 knots and I plan a 20 nautical mile journey and the vessel uses a maximum of 15 litres per hour, for the return trip I would need to carry a minimum of 45 litres of fuel.

Boat Pre-Departure Checklist When you are preparing to go boating it is important to ensure your craft is in good order. The major causes of breakdown at sea are petrol failure, fuel shortage or contamination, mechanical failure and battery failure. You should make a habit of having a pre-departure checklist on your own boat and check each time before you leave home. Your CHECKLIST should include: On boarding the boat and before operating any switches or engines check for Petrol and LPG odours. If such odours exist, fix the fault before you go out and before you take any other passengers on board. Inspect the bilges. If there is more bilge water than usual, find and rectify the fault. When pumping bilges, be aware of the environment. Polluting the waterways is an offence. If there is oil or fuel in the bilge water, use absorbent matting to clean up the spills. Check the engine to see that it is working properly, preferably the day before departure. Check engine oil and coolant levels – top up if required. Check that the fire extinguisher is in good working condition. Ensure there is sufficient fresh water and food for the length of the voyage, with some extra in case of an emergency. Check the battery condition and see if there is enough charge, keep terminals free of corrosion and terminals are tight Make sure the lights on the craft are in good working order as you never know when your vessel may break down and you could be stuck out at sea at night. Test any electrics operating from the battery such as radios, gauges and the power tilt etc. Check that the self-draining holes are all clear. Have ropes and lines in good condition and stored ready for use. Check to make sure steering cables and connections are in good condition and work perfectly. Check to make sure all necessary safety equipment is on board and in good condition, and enough life-jackets to fit each person you are taking out on the boat. Check propeller, rudder or drive train is undamaged. Check that you have tools, extra fuses and bulbs of the appropriate size on board the vessel. Check the weather conditions and the expected weather conditions before you leave home. Most important “MAKE SURE THE BUNGS ARE IN!” ©

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Trailers Vehicle Towing Tips When following another vehicle, allow extra distance between your vehicle and the vehicle ahead, as it is unlikely your vehicle will brake as effectively as it does without the trailer. Crosswinds will bear heavily against your boat and could upset the balance and handling of your vehicle so reduce speed during times of high winds. Make sure any gear aboard the boat cannot blow out, as the slipstream can create quite a suctioning effect, and could cause a hazard to other motorists.

Trailer Maintenance

Lookout for slippery boat ramps & the drop-off at the end of the boat ramp

For the longevity of your trailer it is of the utmost importance to maintain the trailer in good working order by: Firstly ensure your vehicle is suitable (power and weight) for towing your boat. The gross mass of the boat, trailer, motor and all equipment must not exceed the kerb weight of the vehicle or the manufacturer’s recommended towing weight, whichever is the lesser. Ensure all lights on tow vehicle are operating correctly. Check compatibility of plugs, sockets, coupling and ball joint. Ensure safety chain is properly secured, mudguards fitted and trailer is free of excessive rust.

Do not overload your boat with gear whilst trailering on the road. Trailer brakes are very prone to corrosion, check them regularly. Remember to lock over-ride brake when reversing up slopes and unlock them when towing. Replace winch cable at the first sign of fraying. Affix the winch handle permanently in place so it can’t be lost when trailering. Keep your trailer tyres correctly inflated and in as good a condition as those fitted to the tow vehicle. Make sure you have a correctly inflated spare tyre for your trailer. Wheel bearings should be repacked regularly with waterproof grease. We recommend the use of a foaming chain lubricant or silicone spray mixed with the grease. On long trips, carry spare bearings, seals and grease or better still, a complete hub and bearing assembly. If you were forced to leave your boat by the side of the road while you try to buy these spares, it may well be gone by the time you return. Avoid trailer theft by locking the trailer to the vehicle (many different types are now available at most boat chandlery stores). Propeller locks are also available or simply remove it from the boat if you store your boat in an area that’s accessible to the public.

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Regularly wash your trailer down

Launching – Courtesy & Safety As a courtesy to other boat ramp users, prepare your boat for launch before backing down the ramp. Check the boat ramp for muddy slippery conditions and look for any drop-offs that may occur at the end of the ramp. Ensure the bungs are in place. Check your fuel and oil if necessary. Clear the deck of gear – fishing rods in rod holders etc. Erect your radio aerial and put all appropriate safety gear on board. Remove tie-down straps and trailer lights and disconnect the trailer wiring. Firstly backing down a boat ramp can cause frustration on the part of the owner of the boat and other boaties waiting to get their boat into the water, so to alleviate this problem if you have not had a lot of experience! Practice reversing either in a shopping centre between the lines, after hours of course, or even in your own drive way at home. “Practise makes Perfect” Always try to maintain from turning the steering wheel of your vehicle from side to side, try to keep it positioned in the middle and only slight movements to the left and right. Either use your side mirrors or turn your head to see where you are going, never try to use both. Always try to keep your vehicle straight, if you veer off on an angle just drive straight up once again and then start to reverse again. If you still have problems think about fitting a tow ball to the front of your vehicle. Before winding the boat off the trailer, tie a rope (about two metres longer than the boat) to the bow of the boat and the trailer. If the winch cable should break, you will not lose control of the boat. There is no need to sink your trailer out of sight just back the trailer in far enough to float the stern while trying to keep the tow vehicle’s wheels out of the water. If possible, move the boat to one side of the ramp while you remove your vehicle. Don’t block access to the ramp any longer than necessary.

Electric Winches make it easy for launching & retrieving your vessel

Don’t sink your trailer out of sight

Retrieving – Courtesy & Safety When lining the boat up with the trailer, be prepared to allow for wind and tide and have lines in place for crew to manoeuvre the boat if strong winds persist. Don’t stand in line with the cable when winching the Make sure you lock boat on to the trailer. If the cable broke, you could be your motor in place! severely injured. Once the boat has been winched on to the trailer ensure the safety chain is in place before you drive the trailer off the ramp. As a courtesy to other ramp users, leave the stowing of gear, folding of canopies, lowering aerials etc. until you have left the ramp and before going onto the road. Drain water from the bilge by either the bilge pump or the bungs, remembering to put the bungs back in place. Ensure the tie down straps and engine supports are in place before taking the rig onto the road. ©

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Routine Checks For Mechanical & Electrical Components As part of the General Safety Obligation it is the owner/operator’s responsibility to ensure the boat is in a seaworthy condition and suitable for the intended trip. Regular preventative maintenance and servicing by a qualified mechanic may avoid a breakdown at sea although you should be able to resolve minor problems. Trouble Shooting When The Engine Won’t Start: If the starter will not operate, before calling for help check: *Battery capacity weak or low *Battery connections loose or corroded *Fuse for the electrics is blown *Starter components faulty *Engine stop switch lanyard not attached *Shift Lever in gear

If the starter operates, but the engine will not start: *Fuel tank empty *Fuel contaminated or stale *Fuel filter clogged *Starting procedure incorrect (Read Manual) *Fuel pump malfunctions *Spark plugs fouled or incorrect type *Spark plug cap fitted incorrectly *Poor connections or damaged ignition wire *Ignition parts faulty *Engine stop switch lanyard not attached *Shift lever in gear *Bad settings or flooded carburettor

Electrical Circuits: Salt is a conductor of electricity and it absorbs moisture so it can destroy and cause leakage and short-circuiting in electrical equipment. All electrical circuits on the vessel should be protected against splash, properly fused and wired with marine wire. A common cause for failure of this equipment is corrosion caused by the salt water. Spray terminals and electrical connectors with a corrosion-retarding agent such WD40. Keep electrical fittings dry. Check the lights are working even if expected to be out only during daylight hours. Testing Mechanical Equipment: When testing any equipment on your vessel, ensure noise regulations are not breached, bystanders are not endangered and fire hazards are minimised. The engine should not be run at a speed that exceeds the manufacturer’s recommendations as outlined in the Owner’s Manual. Mechanical Equipment Installation: Before any additional mechanical equipment is put into use always follow the manufacturer’s specifications and recommendations. It may be in your best interest to call on a qualified installer, rather than trying to install a piece of very expensive equipment that may get damaged because of your inexperience. ©

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11 Batteries: Marine batteries differ from automotive type batteries. They are constructed with additional plates to suit the variations in the rated performance levels. They are made vibration resistant by lock-bonding with fibreglass separators. The batteries should be secured in brackets. Their terminals, cables, casing and the sealing compound should be kept clean, free from dirt, moisture and grease. Dirt or moisture on top of the battery can form a conducting path, which takes energy from the battery; and if allowed to become bad enough, it may eventually damage the battery. The terminals should be coated with Vaseline to safeguard against corrosion. Corrosion and crystalline matter on terminals can be removed by dipping them in a solution of baking soda and hot water. Then rinse them clean, dry, and smear with petroleum jelly. Batteries give off explosive hydrogen gas, which is lighter than air. The gas hangs above the electrolyte at all times. This is due to a continuous weak chemical reaction in the battery, even when disconnected. The most dangerous time is just after charging. To prevent a spark igniting it, caps should be on cells when connecting or disconnecting a battery. The battery charger or ignition should be turned off before disconnecting a battery. When charging batteries, they should be protected against spark, naked flames and heat.

Trimming The Boat By changing an outboard motor’s drive angle, a vessel’s bow can be made to rise or drop. The bow is raised by setting the angle back and lowered by setting the angle in. The performance and stability of a vessel depends a great deal on correctly trimming the outboard. Incorrect angle can also lead to loss of control. If the angle is set too far back, the vessel’s bow will rise, the centre of buoyancy will shift aft and the vessel will start to “Porpoise”. It could lead to the operator and passengers being thrown overboard. If the trim is set too far in, the boat will tend to “Plough”. The vessel will throw extra spray, lose speed and bury the bow into the oncoming waves. This will reduce the stability of the craft. The correct trim angle depends on the vessel’s handling characteristics, the size of the outboard and sea conditions. Generally, it should be 3 to 5 degrees by the stern. For better steering into the wind, the angle should be reduced slightly. On smaller outboards the trim angle is adjusted manually by moving a pin or an adjusting rod to different holes in the mounting bracket. On remote controlled outboards a Tilt/Trim Switch or a Power Trim Switch is fitted on the remote control panel or lever. The term TRIM applies to small changes in angle under normal operations and TILT to larger changes in angle when cruising in shallow water, or to raise the propeller out of the water when stopped.

Correct Trim

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Trim to High

A General Guide to Boat & Motor Maintenance Regular maintenance of your boat and motor will go a long way towards ensuring safe and hassle free boating. Even with the best preventive care, boat motors are notoriously subject to failure. The constant wear and tear on your boat after it has been operating in salt water, rain, sun, sand, and mud will make life tough on the machinery. So it is of the utmost importance to maintain the motor, the boat in general, and all its electrical equipment that you have on board, in pristine condition. By constantly keeping the maintenance up to your vessel, in the long run, will prove to be of a financial reward to yourself. Whenever you wish to add more electrical equipment to your vessel make sure you acquire the services of a qualified installer and always refer to the manufacturer’s handbook for a general guidance on how to look after your boat and motor. They will tell you how often it needs to be serviced, where to get it serviced and generally have a few suggestions on troubleshooting problems. Always service your motor at least once a year, more, if you use your vessel on a regular basis. Following is a suggested maintenance program to follow on your own vessel: Shut the engine off before performing any maintenance. If the engine must be run, make sure the area is well ventilated. Never run the engine in an enclosed or confined area. Exhaust contains poisonous carbon monoxide gas; exposure can cause loss of consciousness and may lead to death. Be sure to reinstall the engine cover, if it was removed, before starting the engine. If the engine must be run, make sure there is water at least 100mm above the anti-cavitation plate, otherwise the water pump may not receive sufficient cooling water, and the engine will overheat.

WATER PUMP: A water pump impeller, pumps in the sea water to cool the engine, and it is the impeller that will generally give the most problems, either by being run dry or due to the lack of maintenance. A water pump should be replaced regularly, especially if you have been operating in the shallows and stirring up sand. Water pump impellers also deteriorate if not used for lengthy periods. When you start your motor check whether the cooling water is flowing out of the cooling water check hole. If the water does not flow out or if steam comes out, stop the engine. Check to see if the screen in the cooling water intake port is obstructed and remove foreign materials if necessary. Check the cooling water check hole for clogging.

PROPELLERS: The propeller consists of a boss with two to six blades attached to it. The bore of the propeller is tapered for example to fit the tail shaft, and may be “keyed” into the shaft. A large locking nut secures the propeller and is usually then covered with a fairing cone. The accuracy and form or shape of a propeller blade section as it slices through the water, determines the ultimate thrust and performance of any vessel. A computerized Prop Scan was specially designed to inspect the accuracy and precise hydrodynamic for Propellers. To optimise your propeller your Prop Scan Technician can correct any accuracy problems, apply the correct section form and also tune the pitch of your propellers. An accurate “Prop Scan” propeller with the correct section form and pitch will always out-perform a standard propeller. You will get fuel savings, increased boat speed, reduced vibration, correct engine RPM and correct engine loading. The propeller bushing can fail if the propeller has been dredging a lot of sand or cutting rock. A loose propeller nut can also result in the loss of a very expensive propeller. Some models have a shear pin to keep the propellers in place, so it is advisable to keep a spare shear pin and even having a spare prop on board is advisable. Keep the shaft and props in clean and good working order and watch out for fishing line that may get caught around the prop. Always keep suitable tools on the boat in case you ever have to undo the nut for the propeller. ©

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Boat & Motor Maintenance Continued FUEL TANKS: Be sure to open the breather vent (if fitted) when running the engine or stalling may occur due to the lack of fuel. Refuel after a voyage to minimise condensation, rust and scale formation and bacterial growth. Periodically drain sediment and water from the bottom of the tank. Inspect the fuel filters daily and change at recommended intervals. Carry suitable spare filter cartridges on board your vessel. Use the appropriate marine type of containers for fuel storage. FUEL PUMP – OUTBOARD: Outboard fuel pumps operate in vacuum created in the crankcase. The motor will not start if fuel is not manually primed because no vacuum can be created without the engine running. Always carry spare fuel line. Never use clear plastic tube as fuel line: the fuel line will harden it and cause it to become brittle and break, thus increasing the risk of fire.

FUEL PUMP – INBOARD PETROL: This pump operates by way of a mechanical cam driven by the engine, and will pump, when the engine is turned by the electric starter motor. No manual priming is necessary and is not generally possible. Most inboards will have a sight glass which aids in the detection of diaphragm failure. If fuel is evident in the sight glass, it means the diaphragm has failed and you should replace the fuel pump immediately. Do not start the engine in this condition.

FUEL: The fuel filters can become clogged and fuel lines can harden with age and exposure. If your boat has an inboard petrol motor, make sure it is fitted with a sparkless starter motor and alternator. Use only the correct marine carburettor and fuel lines for your motor. The fuel filter should have water traps so you can see impurities in the filter. Poor quality unleaded fuel loses its octane rating quickly especially when mixed with two stroke oil so it would be in your best interest to use good quality fuel and filtration. If the fuel in your boat has been there for some time, it is better to dispose of this fuel in the appropriate manner and then start afresh with new fuel. Additives such as fuel boosters may be added but are not always successful. Use only the correct marine carburettor and fuel lines for your motor. Monitoring and calculating fuel availability becomes critical to planning and daily operations and to stability considerations. Apart from knowing the total volume of fuel on hand, the appreciation of fuel usage against fuel available and reserve requirements is essential. Always remember when starting out on a trip take one-third of the amount of fuel to reach your destination, one-third for the return journey and one-third for the unexpected ©

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Boat & Motor Maintenance Continued SPARK PLUGS: The spark plugs in petrol and LPG engines should periodically be removed and inspected. The heat and deposits will slowly cause them to break down and erode. They should be replaced when badly eroded or excessively covered with carbon and other deposits. The condition of the spark plug can also indicate the condition of the engine; for example if the centre electrode is very white, there could be an intake air leak or a carburettor problem in that cylinder, that may require expert assistance to alleviate the problem. The spark plug gap should be set as recommended by the manufacturer. When fitting the plug, clean the gasket surface and use a new gasket. Wipe off any dirt from the threads and screw in the spark plug with a torque wrench or ¼ to ½ turn past finger tight. Be careful not to damage the spark plug insulator. If damaged, it could allow external sparks, leading to explosion or fire.

GEAR BOX: Gearbox oil should be changed every 100 hours of operation or 6 monthly. Drain the gearbox in a container by opening the oil-drain plug and the oil-level plug and with the motor in the upright position, inject the recommended gearbox oil into the oil-drain plughole until it starts to flow out of the oil-level plughole. Insert and tighten both the drain plugs. Fishing line wrapped around the propeller and leg is a common cause of leaking gearbox seals. Water in the gearbox can cause corrosion and possible failure. Change the gearbox seals. Water in the gearbox can cause corrosion and possible failure, so regularly check for the presence of water and change when necessary. You may also have to change the gearbox seals if there is the presence of water. LPG-Liquefied Petroleum Gas: LPG is used on board as fuel for cooking and in some vessels for propulsion. It is composed of Butane or Propane or a mixture of the two, and is a hydrocarbon like petrol. It is more volatile and remains in a vapour state under normal atmospheric pressure. LPG is stored under pressure, compressed 270 times its normal vapour pressure to turn it into liquid. Mixed with air, it can be highly explosive. LPG is heavier than air. Leaked gas will flow downwards, collecting in low spaces in the vessel. Pockets of LPG collected in this way create a serious fire hazard. LPG is non-toxic and non-corrosive, but inhaled in the absence of oxygen, it will cause suffocation. Basic Safety Rules to follow if you have LPG on board: Use licensed gas fitters and approved fittings for installation and service. Maintain all LPG appliances and fittings in first class condition, check for corrosion, rust and minor leaks. A professional should regularly check them. If a gas burner fails to ignite promptly TURN IT OFF. Ventilate for 3 minutes to disperse the gas before attempting to reignite. The gas cylinder should be kept in a secure, upper deck area so that any escaping gas, drains directly overboard. Gas appliances need ventilation so don’t use them in enclosed cabins. Turn off the complete system when not using them for long periods. Display “No Smoking” signs and “Turn off the Gas Bottle” signs near appliances. Turn off every LPG appliance before petrol refuelling.

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Boat & Motor Maintenance Continued ON YOUR BOAT YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO: Change the fuel filter and primer bowl Clean and change spark plugs Check for spark Check and replace fuses Change the propeller Clean battery terminals

SPARE PARTS: There are some basic spare parts you should carry on your boat. Learn how to fit them and make sure you have the appropriate tools to be able to do so. Some parts are specific to outboards while some are specific to inboards. Spark Plugs Propeller Nut & Pin Ignition Points Drive Belts Oil Filter Spare Fuel Tank Spare Oil Spare Fuel Fuel Lines Fuel Pump Primer Bulb Drain Plugs Trailer Bearings Starter Cord Assorted Stainless Steel Nuts and Bolts

Spot Light Bulbs Navigation Light Bulbs Jumper Leads Water Pump or Impeller Shear Pins Engine Stop Yoke Batteries

Keep at least three fuses of each amperage rating to suit all the different electrical systems on board. After you have taken your boat out on the water spend time on some basic preventative maintenance, after all, purchasing a boat can be an expensive exercise and you will certainly have many benefits by just following some basic rules: Thoroughly clean and flush the outboard motor with fresh water after operating in dirty or salty water. Shut the engine down before cleaning and flushing the motor. Clean and wash the outside of the outboard motor with fresh water. Flush the engine for approximately 10 minutes or follow the manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recommendations. Take the engine cover off; check connections and spray with water dispersant. Always wash your trailer down as well, check your towing lights are working correctly and make sure the wheel bearings are well greased and have no salt deposits left in them.

ÂŠ

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Manoeuvring & Berthing Prepare boat before berthing by: 1. Brief your crew or guests of the position they need to take on the vessel, as it is coming into the dock. 2. Place fenders over the side of the vessel have them at the correct height and position so as to buffer against the impact between the vessel and the jetty or wharf. 3. Have mooring lines in readiness to drop on to the Bollard on the wharf or jetty.

Check wind and tides: Consideration must be made for the effect this has on the handling of your vessel. 1. Is the Wind & Tide in the same direction? 2. Is the Wind & Tide in opposing directions? If the approach to the berth is on the port side and the wind is approaching on the starboard side, it will push the boat into the wharf. If the wind is on the port side it will push you off the jetty, so have a stern line in readiness to place onto the bollard.

Check other boating traffic & hazards: 1. How many other vessels are near the jetty or wharf? 2. How many people are standing on the jetty or wharf? 3. Are people fishing from the jetty or wharf? 4. Are people netting from the jetty or wharf? 5. Are children playing on the jetty or wharf?

To dock the vessel: Begin to approach the jetty at a very slow speed and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t steer too aggressively to Port or Starboard. If your speed is to fast because of the high idle speed select neutral and then forward to slow your approach, this may need to be conducted a few times. To maintain steerage, forward gear must be controlled at intervals. Aim towards the far end of the jetty or the position that is furthest from you for better placement on the wharf. If you are going to berth against the tide, the boat will approach at a slower speed than with the tide. Put the vessel into reverse gear and bring rudder towards the wharf to bring the back of the vessel in. Secure the vessel: When vessel stops select neutral immediately, and tie the vessel up securely. If your vessel is too far from the jetty or wharf turn motor towards the wharf and select reverse, give a short burst of power and back to neutral, when you have the stern line secured select forward but no power or the vessel will lean on to the wharf. Once you have secured a line to the bollard at one end of the wharf secure a spring line from the stern of the boat to forward on the jetty then to the bow of the boat. ÂŠ

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Manoeuvring & Berthing Continued

Turn the motor off when the lines are secured but always recheck the mooring lines and allow slack for the rise of the vessel when unloading passengers or cargo. Remember to always recheck your fenders that they are in the correct position. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take up valuable room on the pontoons by leaving your vessel moored in the middle; always leave it to one end making room for other vessels. When leaving a mooring drive off the jetty by selecting reverse, have rudder towards wharf and this will allow the bow to pull out. Then select forward gear to drive straight off. If you have no room to reverse because of other traffic, just push the vessel off the wharf and then drive away normally. To reverse out of a mooring have the rudder away from the wharf which will pull the boat away from the jetty, be well clear before selecting forward, but always look in all directions before proceeding.

Always remember to remove all mooring lines before this procedure. These procedures may not apply to all types of propulsion.

Bow Line

Springer line to the Bow

Stern Line

Springer line to the Stern

Bollard

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Tides Earth Moon Gravitational Pull The word TIDES is a generic term used to define the alternating rise and fall in sea level. Tides are created because the Earth and the Moon are attracted to each other, just like magnets are attracted to each other. The Moon tries to pull at anything on the Earth to bring it closer, but the earth is able to hold onto everything except the water. Since the water is always moving the Earth cannot hold onto it and the moon is able to pull at it. This is called the GRAVITATIONAL PULL. The gravitational attraction of the moon causes the oceans to bulge out in the direction of the moon. Another bulge occurs on the opposite side, since the Earth is also being pulled toward the moon (and away from the water on the far side). Since the earth is rotating while this is happening, two tides occur each day. Ocean levels fluctuate daily as the sun, moon, and earth interact. The ocean is constantly moving from high tide to low tide and then back to high tide. There is about 12 hours and 25 minutes between the two high tides. The elapsed time between the top of high tide and bottom of low tide is approximately 6 hours. The tidal flow is not constant throughout this time frame. The volume of flow is calculated hourly. Shown below is a table referred to as tidal twelfths. You can easily calculate the height of any tide using this method. 1st Hour--------------------1/12th of Tidal Volume 2nd Hour--------------------2/12th of Tidal Volume 3rd Hour--------------------3/12th of Tidal Volume th

Largest Volume and the Strongest Flow

4 Hour--------------------3/12 of Tidal Volume 5th Hour--------------------2/12th of Tidal Volume 6th Hour--------------------1/12th of Tidal Volume

In most locations tides may be semidiurnal, (two high tides and two low tides) but there are occasions when we only have one tide cycle per day, this is called Diurnal. Along the coast of Queensland we have two highs and two lows each day. The semidiurnal tidal range varies in a two-week or fortnightly cycle. Around NEW and FULL MOON when the Sun, Moon and Earth form a line (a condition called Syzygy), the tidal forces due to the Sun, reinforce those of the Moon. The tide’s range is then at a maximum and this is called a SPRING TIDE. At these times, the High Tides are very High and the Low Tides are very Low.

Low Tide High Tide

New Moon

The Earth

Full Moon

The Sun During the Moon’s quarter phases the Sun and Moon are perpendicular (at right angles) with each other, thus causing the bulges to cancel each other. The result is a smaller difference between high and low tides and is known as a NEAP TIDE. Neap Tides are especially weak tides and occur approximately 7 days after a Spring Tide. At these times, you get the:

Lowest of High Tides and the Highest of Low Tides.

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Third Quarter Moon High Tide Low Tide

The Sun First Quarter Moon

19 The term king tide has no scientific definition although it usually refers to any high tide well above average height. The popular concept is that the King Tides are the higher high waters, which occur around Christmas time. Equally high tides occur in the winter months but these are at night and are not as apparent as those at Christmas, which generally occur during daylight. King tides are no more than the very highest tides that occur at each place. They occur naturally and regularly. Tide levels are measured from a reference water level known as the chart datum. The chart datum is the level of water that charted depths displayed on nautical charts are measured from. The chart datum is generally a tidal datum; that is a datum derived from some phase of the tide. Common chart datumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are usually taken at the LOW ASTRONOMICAL TIDE.

The Low Astronomical Tide is often referred to as the LAT and is the lowest tide that can be expected under normal weather conditions. The predicted height is added to the LAT to determine the actual water depth at the predicted time, so the depth of water at any given point is calculated by adding the tidal prediction from the tide chart to the LAT which is indicated as water depths on the boating chart.

An example of this would be: If you went to grid 36 in our supplementary chart and the LAT there is O.1- this means 10 centimetres or 100 millimetres or .1metre depth of water. The left hand digit indicates whole metres and the right hand number, which is lower, means a decimal point of a metre â&#x20AC;&#x201C; hence, .1 of a metre. The number to the right is .5 with a horizontal line underneath it. This means a negative .5, which means .5 of a metre above the water level (or mud flats). So if you had a predicted low tide of 1 metre at the 0.1 positions you would have 1.1 metres of water at low tide and at the position of negative .5 you would have .5 of a metre of water at low tide. So for that same area say we are going to have a high tide of 2 metres at the 0.1 area we would have 2.1 metres of water at high tide and the negative .5 area you would have 1.5 metres of water at high tide.

HAT is the Highest Astronomical Tide and this is the highest tide that could be theoretically predicted to occur under average meteorological conditions and a conductive combination of astronomical relationships between the earth, the moon and the sun. Tide information can be gained from a number of different sources for example, Radio, Television, Newspaper, and Internet and on Marine Radios from Limited Coast Stations like your Coast Guards. Tide tables provide detailed predications of the times and heights of high and low waters at standard ports for every day of the year. The precise position is usually named and given a latitude and longitude. The time is given in the standard time for the area in a 24hour clock. The depth of the tide is given in metres - the smaller number indicates low tide and the higher number indicates high tide.

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Tides Continued Our tide charts have been calculated from the Brisbane Bar and for other areas you will need to adjust the times and heights of high and low waters for the area you are in or the area that you are going boating in for that particular day. For example if you are leaving the port of Brisbane and the High Tide there is at 6.30 am and you want to travel to the Gold Coast Seaway you would have to allow a time difference of 1hour and 15 minutes earlier. Thus High tide would be at 5.15am in that particular area. The back of a tide chart normally has the variations for you. This tide information with the variations is also available on Marine Charts. Some other examples of this are: Jacobs Well 15 minutes later Jumpinpin on the ocean side 1½ hours earlier Tangalooma 30 minutes earlier Point Danger 1hour and 40 minutes later Pumicestone passage is the same at the entrance but at The Skids further up the passage it is 1 hour 48 minutes later Ipswich (Bremer River) is 3 hours later on the incoming tide and 3½ hours on the outgoing tide. Redcliffe is the same as the Brisbane Bar Scarborough Boat Harbour is 5 minutes later Cleveland is 13 minutes latter Redland Bay 30 minutes latter This is why it is absolutely necessary to have a Trip Plan of where you intend to go and work out what time the height of the tide will be at its best, so that you can safely travel in that area and not run aground. Some channels will not be navigable at Low Tides.

An exercise on how the Rule of Twelfths may help you to calculate the tide. At a certain port on a certain day, High Tide is 1.8m at 0600 hours and Low Tide is 0.6m at 1200 hours. Find the height of tide for every hour between High Tide and Low Tide. SOLUTION HT at 0600 hours LT at 1200 hours Range 1/12th of 1.2m = 0.1m thus 2/12ths of 1.2m = 0.2m thus 3/12ths = 0.3m 3/12ths again 2/12ths 1/12th

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= 1.8metres = 0.6metres --------------= 1.2metres height of tide at 0700 hours height of tide at 0800 hours height of tide at 0900 hours at 1000 hours at 1100 hours at 1200 hours

= 1.7m = 1.5m = 1.2m = 0.9m = 0.7m =0.6m

21 2.7 2.6 2.4 2.2 2.0 1.8 1.6 1.4 1.2

At the 3rd & 4th hour the greatest volume of water will flow

6 Hours 6 Hours

6 hours between high & low tide

1.0 0.8 0.6 0.4 0.2 0.1 0.0

TIDE GRAPH FOR THE BRISBANE BAR FOR TUESDAY 23RD WITH A NEW MOON Low Tide

4.13am

0.41 metres

High Tide

9.37am

1.81 metres

Low Tide

3.40pm

0.21 metres

High Tide

10.15pm

2.71 metres

6 Hours between High and Low Tide

If you look at a modern Marine Chart you will see different colours of water this indicates the different depths of water and will also help in plotting courses and prevent running into sand banks. Dries at low tides 0m to 1m deep 1m to 2m deep

2m to 3m deep Deeper than 3m

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Navigation Navigation comes from the Latin NAVIGARE “to sail a ship” Navigation is the process, which enables a mariner to accurately determine the position of a vessel and or move it safely to a different location. It is the fundamental element of safe seamanship. Understanding the buoyage system and the collision regulations are essential to safe navigation within our complex waterways. At sea, where there are no visual indicators, it is easy to lose all sense of direction but learning to navigate is rewarding and enjoyable. It will broaden your boating horizons. Use your navigation skills to: Plan your trip and your intended course you wish to follow. Make notes and mark them on your chart. Identify the buoys, marks and beacons that you will encounter and know what they mean, the information will be marked on the chart. Identify landmarks on the chart and note them. Use your chart as you proceed. Compare the view from your boat with your expectations from the chart. Consciously navigate from point to point rather than just “heading off’ and trying to find out where you are when you think you’ve arrived. When you learn to navigate, with experience you will have no trouble taking your boat from an unknown port and confidently heading for a planned but unseen destination. Navigation is most commonly used: To find your way to a fishing spot and be able to find that spot again. To find your way to and from your destination in good and bad weather. To confidently go from one location to another even in unfamiliar waters. To identify and report your position in an emergency if necessary. To help avoid disaster in bad weather. The essential equipment needed for basic navigation is: A chart of the waters in which the boat is operating. A liquid damped magnetic compass. A tide chart. Soft pencil and eraser. A rule or scale, transparent and marked in millimetres. Parallel rule. Protractors, various types. Hand bearing compass.

Compass Rose

The CHART is the marine equivalent of what would be called a map on land. A chart employs latitude and longitude as its primary reference system. Latitude and longitude are shown as horizontal and vertical lines. Charts are oriented with true north (000) to the top and all other directions are applied in terms of 000 to 360 true through reference to the Compass Rose provided. Each degree of the Compass Rose could be divided into 60 minutes (60’), but navigational accuracy for bearings and courses beyond the nearest1/2 is not required. The points of a compass are those of a circle divided into four quadrants of 90degrees. The four Cardinal Directions are: Stringline Course North ---0/360 degrees Plotter with variations East ---------90 degrees takes the guess work South------180 degrees out of navigation West-------270 degrees There are three key directions in navigation: Bearing – The direction in which an observer is looking (usually towards a prominent feature) Heading – The course direction a ship has steered, or is to steer Track – The direction a ship has travelled, or intends to travel, across the chart (course made good)

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Navigation Continued All of these directions on the chart are TRUE and can be measured by transferring the line of direction with a parallel rule to the centre of the nearest Compass Rose and reading off the direction from the graduated circumference of the Rose. A navigator measures these directions with a magnetic compass (standard, hand-bearing or electronic fluxgate), a gyro compass, by relative bearing off the ship’s heading (radar, horizontal angle, and so forth) or by Global Positioning System (GPS) or chart plotter (track only). With the exception of the latter two, the directions measured by these instruments will generally not be true and will need correction to true before transference to the chart. The major corrections that will need to be made for a magnetic compass reading are magnetic variation and magnetic deviation. A compass is a must on every boat. There are different types- a magnetic compass that points to the magnetic north and the gyrocompass which points to the true north. The STEERING COMPASS is fixed to the vessel; graduations are usually 2 or 5 degrees. It always points in the vessel’s direction and is used to set and maintain course. The HAND HELD COMPASS can be used wherever convenient, graduations are usually 1 degree. It can be pointed where required and is used to observe directions to any object or point of interest. The GYRO COMPASS is a compass, which finds true north by using an (electrically powered) fast spinning wheel, and friction forces it in order to exploit the rotation of the Earth. This compass is used on ships and has 2 main advantages over magnetic compasses. They find true north as opposed to magnetic north and they are not affected by metal in a ship’s hull. Most boaters will have a magnetic compass, which will have magnetic variation. This is an error caused by the Earth’s magnetic field not being lined up with the true north (the axis of the Earth’s rotation). It is the angle that magnetic north is away from true north. The magnetic compass points to the north magnetic pole. The positions of the North and South magnetic poles are not the same as that of the North and South geographic or true poles. Consequently, except for special regions, Magnetic North differs from True North. This difference is referred to as the Magnetic Variation. In South East Queensland, Magnetic North is East of True North by approximately 11degrees. Magnetic variation is different in direction (east or west) and in amount and rate of change throughout the world. The direction, amount and annual rate of change are shown on the Compass Roses of a chart. To obtain True Bearing and Courses for plotting, Easterly Variation is always added to Magnetic Bearings and Courses: and Westerly Variation is subtracted. Charts are projected to True North not Magnetic North. Therefore adjustments need to be made to “True” directions before they can be applied to the Magnetic Compass. Similarly, corrections need to be made to ‘Magnetic’ directions before they can be plotted on a chart. For example: if a point bears 20 degrees by a magnetic compass, its True (or chart) bearing is 20 degrees plus 11 degrees = 31 degrees TRUE. Similarly, if a point bears 40 degrees True on a chart, its Magnetic bearing is 40 degrees minus 11 degrees = 29 degrees Magnetic. These examples apply only on the East coast of Australia. Magnetic Deviation is an error on the compass caused by the ship’s magnetic field (ferrous metals and electrics). It is the angle between magnetic and compass north. It may vary dramatically at different positions around the ship, depending on proximity to magnetic influences. Magnetic deviation will normally vary depending on the ship’s heading (the orientation of the ship to the Earth’s magnetic field).

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Navigation requires us to constantly convert between Magnetic and True directions. Understanding this process is fundamental to navigation and quickly becomes second nature.

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Speed-Time & Distance Calculations The “Speed, Time and Distance Triangle” is one of the most basic tools a boatie needs in navigation. Using this simple formula one can predict the time of arrival, the speed of travel or the distance and with a known heading, determine an approximate position (Dead Reckoning – DR) All Dead Reckoning calculations take one of three different forms How long will it take to go a certain distance? How far will I go in a certain amount of time? How fast should I go to travel in a certain distance in a given amount of time – speed? To answer any of these questions, a navigator needs to know three things: The true course The boat’s speed The amount of time the boat has travelled at that course and speed. Thus in addition to the need for a compass course, you will need knowledge of boat speed, an accurate watch, and a chart on which to plot the information

Rules:

Distance Always place distance at the top of the triangle Draw a line under the word “Distance” Place Speed and Time on the bottom in any order Time must be in hours

Speed x Time

For example – If it is 2 hours 12 minutes, convert 12 minutes into 0.2 hours by dividing it by 60, then write it as 2.2 hours. Using the line under “Distance” as the “dividing in” line, the triangle offers us three equations, only one of which is needed for a given problem Speed = Time =

Distance Time Distance Speed

Distance = Speed x Time

An example: A vessel sails a distance of 4.2 miles in 49 minutes. What is her speed? (Answer: 5.1 knots) (Note: 49 minutes = 0.82 hours) An example: How long would a vessel sailing for 132.5 miles at 10.8 knots take? (Answer 12.27 hours or 12 hours 16 minutes) (Note: 0.27 hours x 60 = 16 minutes) An example: What distance would a vessel travelling from 0759 hours till 1831 hours at 12.5 knots cover? (Answer 131.6 miles) (Note sailing period is 10 hours 32 minutes or 0.52 minutes)

The speed - time - distance calculations has one common error that you may overlook and that is there are 60 NOT 100 minutes in an hour. This can be avoided by writing down as shown here in subtracting 0140 hours from 0727 hours. 7 hours 27 minutes = 6 hours 87 minutes - 1 hour 40 minutes --------------------------------= 5 hours 47 minutes

SPEED – TIME – DISTANCE Calculations will also help you to work out the fuel consumption of your vessel Note: The boat travelling NE (upstream) on this river could use twice as much fuel as it will on the downstream leg. Three reasons for this: 1. The boat is travelling against the tide 2. The boat is travelling against a strong wind 3. The boat is following the long shore

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A TRAINING CHART OF LOWER BRISBANE REACH AND PARTIAL MORETON BAY

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IALA Buoyage System A BUOYS BEACONS & MARKS

It is illegal to tie up to any buoys or beacons.

A system of buoys, marks and lights, known as the International Association of Marine Aids to Navigation and Lighthouse Authorities (IALA) Buoyage System ‘A’ is used to assist safe navigation. The IALA systems are made up of five types of buoys, Laterals, Cardinal, Safe Water, Isolated Danger and Special Mark. Just as cautionary traffic signs on highways and roads guide drivers of motorcars, buoys and beacons are signs advising the mariner of water conditions, for safe navigation, or of potential dangers. Laterals, Cardinals and Marks may either be a buoy which is moored usually in deep water or a beacon which is driven into the seabed or stand on concrete footings in shallow water. At night the beacons will display a light and each will have a different sequence. Each type of mark has a unique combination of colour, shape, topmark and light. Learn to recognise the beacons and what they indicate, and pass safely on the correct side, as passing on the wrong side may simply mean ‘running aground’. If any doubt exists about the correct way to pass these marks, consult your chart and check the direction of buoyage arrows, and always proceed with caution particularly if you’re new to boating or you are boating in unfamiliar waters. Directions of Buoyage Arrows are displayed on all Marine Charts and indicate the:

Red and Green Go Between

DIRECTION INTO PORT for areas where it is not obvious

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Makai heading into the Port of Scarborough Harbour

Lateral Marks Port and Starboard marks are referred to as lateral marks. They mark the PORT (red) and STARBOARD (green) sides of a route to be followed, such as in a channel. When a port and starboard mark are placed near to each other, travel between them. Often lateral marks are not placed in pairs, where the safe side to pass, is generally determined by the direction of travel to or from the sea. Some beacons, buoys and marks may be given a special name for example the yellow Special Mark in grid 52 on our training chart, is named the Darcy Light and in grid 61 the Port Lateral Beacon has been given the name Thorpe Memorial Beacon and these are usually named after a person of some significance. When going upstream into a port (away from the sea): Keep the red Port Hand Mark on the Port Side (left side) of your boat. Keep the green Starboard Hand Mark on the Starboard Side (right side) of the boat. When going downstream out of port (towards the sea): Keep the red Port Hand Mark on the Starboard Side (right side) of the boat Keep the green Starboard Hand Mark on the Port Side (left side) of the boat. At night a Port Buoy shows a red light and a Starboard Buoy shows a green light.

Makai leaving the Port of Scarborough Harbour

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Heading into Port (towards land)

Heading out of Port (out to sea)

Lateral Port Buoy

Lateral Starboard Buoy ÂŠ

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Lateral Port Beacon

Lateral Starboard Beacon 30

Special Marks

SPECIAL MARK

A Special Mark has a top shape of a Yellow Cross. This mark should be used as a caution - like a yellow traffic light on the road. Special Marks are used to mark areas of no navigational significance but have a special nature. The chart needs to be consulted to indicate the purpose of the mark, as there will normally be extra information available.

This Special Mark is called the West Inner Bar Beacon and is the Automatic Tide Gauge at the entrance of the Brisbane River

A Special Mark can be used to indicate a special area or feature such as a traffic separation or a dredge spoil grounds, cable or pipeline including outfall pipes, groynes, quarantine anchorages and special mooring buoys.

They can also define a channel within a channel, for example: a channel deep for draught boats in a wide estuary where the limits of the channel for normal navigation are marked by red and green laterals. They will also be found at the intersection of two channels where the use of a lateral or cardinal may not be appropriate. Another use for the Special Mark is when it is used to mark an exclusion zone for a special event such as a War Ship in Port. Special Marks can be used as lateral or safe water marks by using a can, cone or sphere-shaped buoys. At night a yellow light will be displayed and the sequence may be any other than those used for the white light of a cardinal, isolated danger and safe watermarks.

Pipeline

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Exclusion zone exclusively for the use of City-Cats

Isolated Danger Mark The top shape of an Isolated Danger Mark has two black spheres clearly separated. This mark indicates a danger of limited extent immediately below or somewhere in the immediate area e.g. a rock pinnacle, isolated shoal, wreck or a reef. Treat it as a danger and keep well clear. These are often buoys and may not be directly above the danger as tidal flow drags them to one side. The area surrounding the Isolated Danger Mark may be navigable but don’t pass too close. At night the light of an Isolated Danger Mark flashes white in groups of two flashes

Note these spheres are black but most of them will be covered in bird secretion which makes it difficult to distinguish the marks.

Safe Water Mark The top shape of a Safe Water Mark has a single Red Sphere. The colours of the beacon are red and white vertical stripes. This mark is the rarest of all marks and indicates navigable safe water all-round the mark. These are often buoys and usually indicate mid-channel with deep and safe water lies ahead or land fall. In Queensland, they are used to mark the seaward beginning of fairways entering major ports. At night a white light shows a single long flash every 10 seconds or an Isophase (flashing light which has dark and light periods of equal length) or an Occulting light (a rhythmic light in which the total duration of light in each period is clearly longer than the total duration of darkness and in which the intervals of darkness are all equal duration). FlY2s

FlG4s

FlR2.5s

On all Marine Charts, Buoys and Beacons that are lit at night will display a tear drop which indicates the colour of the light and the abbreviations indicate the sequence and intervals of the lights. For example on the chart of partial Moreton Bay, in Grid 62 the Port Lateral Beacon has FlR 4s which means at night that Port Beacon’s light will flash RED every 4seconds. In Grid 52 the Yellow Special Mark (Darcy Light) has FlY 2s which means the light will be YELLOW and will flash every 2seconds. In Grid 16 the East Cardinal Mark has a white tear drop Q(3)10s which means it has a WHITE light that flashes quickly in a group of three every 10 seconds. ©

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Cardinal Marks Cardinal marks are a special system of marks that indicate a hazard by reference to the four cardinal points of the compass: NORTH – SOUTH – EAST – WEST. A Cardinal Mark indicates the safest or deepest water exists in the direction indicated by the cardinal point direction, represented by the mark. It may also draw your attention to a feature in a channel such as a bend, junction or an end of a shoal.

North Cardinal Mark A North Cardinal Mark is positioned so that the safest water lies to the north. The top half of the visible portion is black and the bottom half is yellow. The top of the beacon will have two stacked cones black in colour and both pointing up. At night a Northern Cardinal Mark will display a white continuous flashing light.

South Cardinal Mark A South Cardinal Mark is positioned so that the safest water lies to the south. The top mark is yellow and the bottom half is black. The top mark is two stacked cones; black in colour both pointing down. At night a South Cardinal Mark will display 6 white flashes and one long flash to ensure there is no confusion with the flashing of the other cardinal points.

East Cardinal Mark

An East Cardinal Mark is positioned so that the safest water lies to the east. The mark is black in colour except for a broad yellow band around its midsection. Its top mark consists of two stacked black cones the top one pointing up and the bottom one pointing down. At night an East Cardinal Mark will display 3 quick flashes every 10 or 15 seconds depending what’s indicated on the Marine Chart.

West Cardinal Mark A West Cardinal Mark is positioned so that the safest water is located to the west. The mark is yellow in colour except for a broad horizontal black band around its midsection. Its top mark has two stacked black cones, the top one is pointing down and the bottom one is pointing up. At night the West Cardinal Mark will display 9 white flashes every 10 or 15 seconds depending on the Marine Chart.

For the Cardinal system to work there is one important piece of equipment that you must have on your vessel.

A COMPASS ©

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NORTH CARDINAL BUOY

D A N G E

R WEST CARDINAL BEACON

EAST CARDINAL BUOY

SOUTH CARDINAL BEACON

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Night Navigation

The science or art of navigating a ship safely from one place to another is made up of learning how to plot a course, how to understand a chart, know what tools are needed to help use the chart, know what features are located on charts, knowing safe boating regulations, collision regulations and sound signals. This becomes more important when navigating at night as this requires skill and concentration as many things change on the water when night falls. Things to remember: Make sure your navigation lights are in good working order and are placed in the correct position on your vessel. Keep a proper lookout by using sight and hearing. Remember depth perception and your night vision can be drastically reduced by bridge and city lights as well as lighted buoys that are in close proximity. Be alert and maintain a radio watch. Check any hazards located on marine charts and keep an all-round visual. Travel at a safe speed, a speed that will allow you to take action to avoid a collision if the situation arises. Distances become much harder to judge as do water depths. Get to know where lit navigational markers are and confirm with your chart, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t rely fully on GPS. If you have other persons on board be sure to monitor their positions on the vessel as well in case of a mishap. Get to know the night time lights of other vessels including larger ocean going vessels, tugs trawlers and sailing vessels. All of these factors should be kept in mind when approaching night navigation. Remember that night navigation requires considerable focus and concentration and should not be taken lightly. Learning to navigate your boat at night can lead to a whole new enjoyment of boating and fishing, as they say this is the best time to catch a feed of fish. ÂŠ

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What went wrong here!

Vessel was 15 degrees off course and was following a steering bearing of 215 degrees instead off 200 degrees. It was a clear night and the lead lights were working

The rock wall is now highlighted by a set of synchronised lights flashing yellow every 3 seconds until the Port of Brisbane is completed Knowing and understanding Navigation is a critical part of night and day boating

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GPS

Global Positioning Systems (GPS) are commonly found on recreational boats, and while a good navigation aid, they should not be relied upon like any other electronic equipment dependent on battery power. A GPS is able to provide a latitude and longitude, updated almost continuously. This can then be plotted on a chart and should be verified with a compass. There have been a number of navigational incidents, where boats have run aground and into an obstruction, attributed to people using GPS data alone. Some positions given by GPS will need to be adjusted due to differing datum. As with all fixes, the GPS position should be checked against something else. A GPS is not a substitute for sound watch keeping and navigational practices and should be used only in conjunction with other aids to navigation. Consider the following when using GPS and or chart plotters: Keep a proper lookout while the vessel is underway to identify any approaching hazards. Zoom to the largest available accurate chart scale. If the zoom recommended exceeds the accuracy scale limit then a warning message is displayed on the screen. It is advisable to switch the unit on and select the correct chart datum before departing. GPS units require time to initialise and you may need time to assess the accuracy of the position information prior to starting the voyage. The accuracy of GPS units can be comprised by power failures or poor electrical connections. Always ensure your electrical charts are updated with supplier upgrades. When going to a waypoint in a straight line, check what is between your boatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s initial location and the waypoint. Be aware of areas under construction or development as hazards may change regularly.

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38 Weather is probably the single most important factor influencing safe and enjoyable boating. Always check the weather forecast before you undertake any boating activity and be prepared to modify or abandon your plans if the weather is questionable. The Bureau of Meteorology issue regular forecasts for small boats operating in coastal waters including expected wind direction and strength, the state of the sea and swell, visibility and changes expected during the forecast period. You can listen for weather forecasts on the radio and should be done so while in port and before departure, and when at sea look for signs of approaching bad weather and regularly check the radio for impending bad weather. Thunderstorms can be a serious hazard for small vessels. They usually produce gusty winds that blow out from the front of the storm. In general, they are local storms produced by Cumulo-nimbus clouds. These are grey towering clouds that you sometimes see on the horizon. The clouds often move in different directions to the wind at the surface. If you observe these clouds over or within a few miles of your position, you should head for shore. If you are planning an extended trip it is important to learn to identify weather trends. If you happen to be caught in a thunderstorm when lightning strikes, lower your aerials and stow all graphite fishing rods flat on the deck or in side pockets. Aerials and graphite rods are excellent lightning conductors. It’s important to learn how certain conditions will affect your boat, e.g. a 3 metre tinnie operating in smooth waters may be very comfortable in a gentle 5 knot breeze but quite hazardous in open water with 20 knots of wind while a 7 metre Shark Cat will revel in the same condition. Some forecasting terms may seem a little misleading to the uninitiated – a moderate breeze is in fact up to 16 knots of wind which is just about the comfort zone of most trailer boats in open waters. However that same wind force in a small river would produce little effect. Apart from wind strength, pay particular attention to wave height in your area of operations.

The Beaufort Scale Irishman Sir Frances Beaufort, a British admiral and hydrographer, created the Beaufort scale in 1805. The scale was designed to help masters of very large sailing ships. He developed the scale to help sailors estimate the winds via visual observation. The Beaufort Scale is an open scale and can be scaled down considerably in protected waters. The initial scale was from zero to 12 but in 1946 forces 13 to 17 were added but are only intended to apply to special cases such as tropical cyclones. This scale is now mainly used in China and Taiwan, which are affected by typhoons. Below is the Beaufort Scale to suit most of our power boating. Beaufort Number

Km/h

Knots

Wave Height

Description

Conditions At Sea

1-5

1-3

0.1m

6-11

4-6

0.2-0.3m Light Breeze

Small wavelets. Glassy crests that don’t break

12-19

7-10

0.6-1.0m Gentle Breeze

Large wavelets-crests begin to break.

20-28 11-16 1.0-1.5m Moderate Breeze Small waves growing larger.

Calm

Sea like a mirror

Light Air

Ripples without crests

LIMIT OF COMFORT ZONE FOR MOST TRAILERABLE TYPE OF BOATS BOATS

29-38 17-21 2.0-2.5m Fresh Breeze

Moderate longer waves-some foam and spray.

39-49 22-27 3.0-4.0m

Large waves with foam crests and some spray.

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Strong Breeze

The Beaufort Scale Comparing the Wave Height to Your Vessel

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This strike hit a luxury yacht and blew out all computers and the electrics on board the boat. Think about whether you want to be out on a boat when these storms are about!!!!

A Weather forecast gives a general description of the expected weather in the forecast period and will include: The wind strength and direction Height and direction of sea waves and swell Factors affecting visibility Note â&#x20AC;&#x201C; in forecasting terminology: Wind gusts may be up to 40% stronger than the average speed given Some waves will be higher (up to twice the height) and some will be lower than the average heights given Sea and swell forecasts do not take into account local influences on waves (currents, tidal flows, water depths and coastal landforms) Winds are generated by differences in pressure within the atmosphere. An Isobar is a line on a weather map that joins places having the same atmospheric pressure. By examining the spacing between isobars (known as pressure gradient) we can get an idea of the direction and strength of the wind. Winds will tend to be strong where the isobar lines are closer together. (A Steep Gradient). Where they are widely spaced, winds will tend to be gentle. Winds tend to blow out of a high-pressure area and rotate anticlockwise around it and tend to produce stable fine conditions. Winds tend to travel into a low-pressure system and rotate clockwise around it and can produce unstable air with the chance of overcast, gusty and at times stormy conditions. When studying the weather forecast, have regard to predicted wind strength and direction, predicted wave height and variables tolerated within the forecast. You should advise your crew and guests of the expected weather conditions, the risks involved and what precautions you will take to lesson those risks.

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Navigation Lights & Daymarks

By law, boats operating between the hours of sunset and sunrise whether at anchor or underway, must display the correct lights. A boat is “underway when it is not at anchor, made fast to the shore or aground” (this includes drifting) Navigation lights must also be used during the daylight hours when visibility is restricted. Lights must be placed and displayed appropriate to the size and class of your boat. These lights tell other boat operators about the boat and what it is doing – whether it is at anchor, under sail, or motoring. Navigation lights must be positioned so they are not obscured by the boat’s superstructure or interfered with by the deck lights. The manufacturer or an authorised person should fit your navigation lights. The masthead and/or all round white light must be fitted (if practical) on the centre line (bow to stern) of the boat. The importance of showing the correct lights cannot be overstated – it is not enough that you can see other boats; they must also be able to see you. Some fishermen switch off their All Round White Light to improve their night vision: this is extremely foolhardy and has caused collisions in small boats. If your boat is not equipped with lights, do not attempt any night passage no matter how limited it may be. If you plan to use your boat frequently at night, it is advisable to install a dual battery system. Run your lights only off one of the batteries. This will ensure you have one fully charged battery to start your motor in the morning. Take the time to learn and become familiar with the lighting sequences of various craft especially those of the type of boats operating in your area. If you travel frequently in bay and offshore waters, you should become familiar with the lights of fishing vessels engaged in trawling, as you certainly would not like to get tangled up in their nets at night.

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Navigation Lights & Daymarks Continued A Daymark is a three dimensional shape that can be hoisted on a ship’s mast to indicate by day those ship’s activities that are indicted by lights at night. Familiarize yourself with the various Daymarks. You should commit to memory the “Safe Side” and “Obstruction Side” Daymark of a dredge. Similarly, if you operate offshore, you should know the Daymark of a fishing vessel engaged in trawling. It would be comforting to think all other boaties would behave responsibly but this is not the case. All the regulations are no substitute for commonsense and the need to maintain a proper lookout at all times.

Daymarks

Lights of a Powerboat Underway: A vessel less than 7metre in length with a maximum speed not exceeding 7knots. (a) A white light visible all round and if possible, separate or combined sidelights. Less than 12 metre in length (a) Separate or combined sidelight, a masthead light and a stern light or (b) Separate or combined sidelights and an all-round white light. Power ships more than 12 metres in length but less than 20 metre in length (a) A masthead light, separate sidelights and stern light or (b) A masthead light combined sidelights and stern light. Note: Larger boats may have two masthead lights-the higher masthead light towards the stern. Boats drifting are still “underway” and must show the same navigation lights as if they were still making way.

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Sailing Boats: While being motor driven (even with the sails up) – lights applicable to power-driven boats. Less than 7 metres in length – the same lights required for sailing boats over seven metres in length. If not, a torch or lantern showing a white light ready to display in order to avoid a collision. More than 7 metres in length and less than 20 metres in length: (a) Combined lantern at or near the top of the mast that incorporates sidelights and stern light or (b) Separate sidelights and stern light. More than 20 metres in length – sidelights and stern lights and may carry the optional red and green all round lights. (they must not carry a combined lantern) Any length, which is fitted with sidelights and a stern light (but not a combined lantern) may in addition, carry two all-round lights in a vertical line at or near the top of the mast. The upper light shall be red and lower green.

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Navigation Lights & Daymarks Continued

Boats at Anchor: Less than 50 metres in length: - An all-round white light placed where it may best be seen. Anchor lights must always be shown from sunset to sunrise. If you are at anchor or in a busy area, then show additional lights (not navigation lights) to ensure you are seen and keep a good watch. Boats over 50 metres should have two anchor lights – the higher one towards the bow.

Non – Powered Boats: Boats being rowed - torch or lantern showing a white light ready to display in order to avoid a collision. Vessels engaged in rowing activities (training or competition) on the Brisbane River need to be fitted with an all-round white flashing light if they are on the water before sunrise or after sunset.

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Navigation Lights & Daymarks Continued Boats to Avoid: There are many other combinations of lights used at night and Daymarks used during the day indicating the activity that the boat is engaged in, like fishing, dredging and vessels not under command. A simple rule of thumb for a small powerboat is to stay clear of any boats exhibiting additional lights.

Trawler Vessels engaged in trawling: Apart from the regular lights common to all powered vessels, trawlers also display a green light above their white light at night. During the day a trawler will display two large black cones with points touching, when the vessel is actually trawling, these are called Daymarks and this Daymark is similar to a West Cardinal Mark. A fish basket slung in the rigging is also an acceptable Daymark for a trawler. Below is a vessel engaged in dredging, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a vessel restricted in its ability to manoeuvre, with an obstruction. It shall exhibit: Three shapes in a vertical line where they can best be seen. The highest and the lowest of these shapes are balls and the middle one a diamond. At night the light sequence will be red-white-red. The safe side to pass this vessel during the day will be on the side displaying 2 diamonds one above the other and at night the safe side will have 2 green lights one above the other. The obstructed side will display 2 black spheres one above the other during the day and at night 2 red lights one above the other.

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Navigation Lights & Daymarks Continued Large boats constrained by their draught: 3 red lights and a black can or cylinder shape during the day

Cross-river vehicular ferries using wires or chains can be a particular hazard at night. Slow down to 6 knots or less when within 100 metres of a ferry and sound a long blast before passing astern. Preferably wait until it has reached the shore to avoid becoming entangled in the wires. Generally, in Queensland, the ferry will display a flashing red light while cables obstruct the passage. The waterways are not like well-defined roads. It is unsafe to navigate a boat with lights illuminating the water directly ahead, because it will deprive you and other boat operators of night vision. Spotlights can be used to identify specific hazards, but this should only be done when operating at very slow speeds and without affecting other waterway users.

Vessels restricted in their ability to manoeuvre: 2 red lights At night it is difficult to judge distances between other vessels so it is of the utmost importance to travel at night at a safe speed, so sufficient action can be taken in time to prevent a collision. Always be on the lookout for hazards such as shallow areas, oyster leases, navigation markers and of course any other vessels that are moored. Background lighting on the shore can cause confusion so care needs to be taken when approaching lights that you cannot distinguish at first.

Remember not everyone is a safe boatie and lots of boaties either forget to display their anchor lights at night or have forgotten to check the charge in their batteries for the use of the lights

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48 Definitions of Lights: A Masthead light means a white light placed over the fore and aft centreline of the vessel showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 225 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right head to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on either side of the vessel. Side lights means a green light on the starboard side and red light on the port side each showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 112.5 degrees and so fixed as to show the light from right ahead to 22.5 degrees abaft the beam on its respective side. In a vessel of less than 20 metres in length the sidelights may be combined in one lantern carried on the fore and aft centreline of the vessel. Stern light means a white light placed as nearly as practicable at the stern showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 135 degrees and so fixed as to show the light 67.5 degrees from the right aft on each side of the vessel. All-round light means a light showing an unbroken light over an arc of the horizon of 360 degrees. Towing light means a yellow light having the same characteristics as the stern light.Flashing light means a light flashing at regular intervals at a frequency of 120 flashes or more per minute.

Familiarize yourself with these lighting configurations and be careful at night when you are on the water, keep a proper lookout at all times!!!!

K E E P O U T O F T H E W A Y

Vessel

Day Shapes

Signature Lights

Not under command*

Notes Replaces Masthead Light

Restricted in ability To manoeuvre *

Constrained by draft

Engaged in Fishing *

Engaged in Trawling *

Sailing

No masthead light

Power-driven

Masthead light

displays sidelights and stern light only when making way

Towing

* **

Up to 200 Metres

Over 200 Metres

replaces one masthead light (same arcs as masthead) stern

At Anchor

Aground

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LEAD LIGHTS

Lead lights are often used to guide boats into a port or through sections of a waterway. The Leads will allow you to follow the deepest and safest part of the channel especially for larger craft. It is essential to consult the chart for relevant leads and other navigation aids before entering unfamiliar waters. Most Lead lights are shore based but there are just a few that you will find in the water as well. Commonly they are triangular in shape, the front beacon having its apex upwards and the rear beacon is inverted. Many new leading beacons carry no top mark and are distinguished by fixed white daylights. At night major lead lights are lit with a blue light so as not to be confused with other lights that you may see in the distance on shore. You will also find fixed blue lights at the centre of a bridge to mark the centre of a channel. Some may be on the side or some underneath the bridge. By manoeuvring your boat to a position so that both leads are lined up one on top of the other vertically, you will generally be in the centre of the channel and on the recommended course. Given leads are usually in larger channels, open them up a little to starboard to keep to the side of the channel. Leads show the centre of the channel which is not consistent with the rule advising boats to travel as far to the starboard side of the channel as is safe and practicable. This is especially important at night. Directional and Sector Lights, Lighthouse: These combinations of light colours are installed to assist navigation in inshore waters, such as bar crossing where there is a safe navigation channel between shallow submerged banks. A specific directional light may only be visible through a small arc indicating the safe water area, and the other light sectors warning of hazards. Lights associated with these marks are white, red and green colours.

Lead lights by day that are not lined up

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Lead lights by day that are lined up

Marine Radio Having a marine radio on board your craft may just one day save your life. There are four main types of marine radios: VHF: This is the preferred radio for short-range communication and is not subject to interference. It is relatively inexpensive and has the best quality of reception. It is easy to operate and is monitored by Marine Rescue Stations and Limited Coastal Stations normally 24 hours a day. For distress/calling channels use channel 16 or 67. Weather information is regularly broadcast on channel 67. Operators of a VHF radio must hold a Radio Operators Certificate of Proficiency. 27MHz: This type of radio is the least expensive and does have a limited range. It is easy to operate, but it is subject to interference. The distress/calling channel is “Navman” Radios & GPS are used 88 or 86 and once again is monitored by Marine Rescue on “Makai” groups but not by official coast stations. It doesn’t require licencing but is strongly encouraged for their own use or other user’s safety. MF/HF: This type of radio is a lot more expensive but it does have a greater communication range if travelling long distances from the shore. An operator licence is required and necessary as it is a difficult radio to operate. Official and Limited Coast stations monitor this radio. SATELLITE: Although relatively expensive, the range of satellite equipment and telephones provide excellent coverage and are the preferred long-range communication device. Training and operator certification are necessary before operating this type of equipment. As the long-term future of HF monitoring by coast stations is uncertain, investment in this type of equipment is recommended for boats off shore voyages. A Station Licence for VHF and 27MHz radios is no longer required but MF/HF still has to be licenced. MOBILE PHONES: Take your mobile phone on board but don’t regard it as a substitute for a marine radio. Mobile phones should only be used in emergencies when the marine radio has failed. Mobile phones are not entirely suitable in emergencies because: (a) Vessels which may be in the vicinity and able to render aid will not hear your call. (b) Mobile communications are limited to two parties at any one time. (c) There is no distress priority on the mobile network. (d) Mobile phones may be out of range, have low batteries or become water damaged. (e) Directional finding equipment cannot track a mobile call the way it can track a radio transmission. RADIO SILENCE PERIODS: On long range SSB, MF, HF and VHF radio, there is an international requirement to observe silence periods on all frequencies. These are periods of three minutes duration, which start on the hour and half hour. These periods are observed so that any distress or urgency messages, coming from a radio that has particularly weak signals, may be heard without interference from other radio traffic. We recommend the observance of silence periods on all marine radios including 27MHz.

2 3

9 8

4 7

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5 50

Marine Radio Continued THE DISTRESS CALL: Mayday is an emergency code word used internationally as a distress signal in voice procedure radio communications; it is derived from the French word venez m’aider meaning “come to help me”. When the ‘venez’ is dropped and the remaining words are pronounced in English you get ‘mayday’ a word that is understood around the world as a distress call. The Distress Call “Mayday” has absolute priority over all other transmissions and indicates that the ship or person using it is threatened by grave and imminent danger and requests immediate assistance. Calls are made on distress frequencies VHF Channel 16 or 67 and 27MHz Channel 88 or 86 MHz or HF 4125-6215-8291KHz. A Distress Call may only be transmitted on the authority of the Master or the person responsible for the ship’s safety. You may repeat a Distress Call as often as necessary until you receive an answer. If no answer is received on distress frequencies, you may repeat the call on any frequency where you believe you might attract attention.

Mayday – Mayday - Mayday This is Makai - Makai – Makai Mayday This is Makai The ships position is approximately 4 nautical miles north east of Shag Rock Boat has caught on fire and we are abandoning ship We have 3 adults on board all wearing life jackets Need urgent assistance

THE URGENCY CALL:

Pan-Pan comes from the French work ‘panne’ meaning breakdown The Urgency Call “Pan Pan” should be used when the use of a distress call cannot be justified but you have a very urgent message to transmit concerning the safety of your vessel or the safety of a person. An Urgency call may only be made on the authority of the skipper or the person responsible for the ship’s safety. You may make an Urgency Call on any distress frequency or any frequency where you believe you may attract attention. An Urgency Call maybe be upgraded to a Distress Call if unanswered for a long period or the situation becomes life threatening.

Pan Pan – Pan Pan – Pan Pan Hello All Stations – Hello All Stations – Hello All Stations This is Makai – Makai – Makai The ship’s position is approximately 6 nautical miles North East of Flinders Reef The motor on our vessel won’t start due to the severed fuel line - Require fuel or a tow Four people on board all safe at the moment

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Marine Radio Continued THE SAFETY CALL:

The Safety Call “Say-cure-e-tay” is derived from the French word “securite”. The Safety Call should be used if you wish to broadcast an important navigational warning to other stations. For example if you have sighted a large floating object that could damage the hull of the boat. However a Safety Call is more likely to be made by a coast station operated by a rescue organization and may include important warnings such as a severe thunderstorm, gale force winds or cyclone warning. You make the initial safety call to all stations on distress frequencies. However you should change to a working frequency to make the broadcast of the safety message.

Say-cure-e-tay – Say-cure-e-tay – Say-cure-e-tay Hello All Stations – Hello All Stations – Hello All Stations This is Makai – Makai – Makai We are in the Pearl Channel a kilometre off the Western Banks and there is a large shipping container floating near the North Spit “Mariners Beware”

A – Alpha B – Bravo C – Charlie D – Delta E – Echo F – Foxtrot G – Golf H – Hotel I – India

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THE PHONETIC ALPHABET J – Juliet S – Sierra 1 – Wun K – Kilo T – Tango 2 – Too L – Lima U – Uniform 3 – Three M – Mike V – Victor 4 – Fo-wer N – November W – Whiskey 5 – Fife O – Oscar X – X-Ray 6 – Six P – Papa Y – Yankee 7 – Sev-en Q – Quebec Z – Zulu 8 – Ait R – Romeo 0 – Zero 9 – Niner

FIRE

Fire in a small craft usually means abandoning ship. The key to fire safety is not fighting fires but to PREVENT them.

S M

L O O C

O T T A E H

H I

E R

FUEL

STARVE If you do encounter a fire on board remember the fire triangle by: Removal of Fuel The removal of a fire’s fuel may simply involve closing off a fuel line stop valve or a gas cylinder valve. This can often be done through remote control valves and extension handles. However it may be necessary to use a water spray to drive heat and smoke away from these valves to enable a person to close them. Removal of Heat The volume of water as an extinguishing agent lies in its capacity to absorb large quantities of heat. If applied efficiently, water will cool materials to below its ignition point. Consequently, in addition to extinguishing fires, tanks and cylinders containing flammable liquids and gases that are exposed to fire may not become involved in the fire, if they can be kept cool with water spray. Removal of Oxygen The removal of oxygen from a fire zone is ordinarily a smothering or blanketing operation. When foam is applied onto a burning surface it forms a blanket between that surface and the atmosphere, thereby excluding the oxygen, or when a person’s clothes catch fire, by wrapping that person in a fire blanket the fire is smothered by excluding the oxygen. ©

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Fire Continued Regardless of the size of the craft, it is difficult to fight fires especially flammable fuel fires in a small craft. Most small craft fires often begin in machinery in the engine space or occur during or immediately after refuelling. Fire prevention can be achieved through commonsense and good housekeeping on board your vessel such as: Carry the correct fire extinguisher or a fire-smothering blanket. Maintain fire extinguishers and locate them on the vessel where they will be easily accessed. Keep the bilge and engine room properly ventilated. Keep the bilge area free of oily rags and rubbish. Make sure any fuel burning appliances such as stoves, heaters and lights have been specifically designed for marine use. Make sure all electrical fittings are properly fused and look for any faults that may need attending. Keep all components of the electrical system clean and free of corrosion. Never use a naked flame such as a match or lighter to illuminate storage lockers and bilges, always use a battery powered flashlight. Regularly check your fuel system for leaks or spills and fix any faults. Don’t overcharge batteries and keep battery storage areas well ventilated to avoid the accumulation of explosive hydrogen gas. Exercise extreme caution when using emergency flares – don’t add fire to an already dangerous situation. Some of the common causes of fire among smaller boats are: Engine backfiring in air laden with combustible vapour Hot exhaust pipe igniting adjacent combustible materials On inboard powered boats, fuel lines can leak or rupture and spray fuel over hot exhausts A spark caused by static electricity during refuelling Fuel vapours collecting in the bilge due to spillage while refuelling Leaking LPG is heavier than air, will find the lowest point in the boat

When refuelling your boat:

Remove all guests and crew from the vessel if refuelling from on-water fuelling stations.

Do a smell test first and check for any fuel leaks or LPG odours Turn off all engines, motors, fans, heating devices, electrical equipment and LPG appliances Don’t smoke or allow naked flames on, or in the vicinity of your boat Spilled fuel produces vapours that can enter the bilge and may be ignited by a spark from the electrical system Always have a fire extinguisher nearby Wipe up all spills Leave room in fuel tanks for expansion

Remember to raise the alarm when a fire occurs, alert others on board, and if the boat needs to be abandoned try not to lead it in a direction towards other vessels or any fuel that may have spilled onto the waterway. ©

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The International Regulations For Preventing Collisions At Sea All local and state speed restrictions must be observed at all times. The Prevention of Collision Regulations applies to all vessels at all times, slowdown in busy areas and when around other vessels take care to observe what their activities are! Keep a proper lookout on your vessel at all times using sight, hearing and all other available means. Always travel at a safe speed â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a speed you feel comfortable with and able to avoid a collision if required, slowdown in shallow areas and when boating in unfamiliar waters. Drive slowly in rain, fog, mist, smoke, and glare. Take special care when travelling at night and be aware of potential dangers. Wind and waves affect the boats performance and stability so in rough conditions slow down to reduce impact on the hull. Other factors to consider in regard to risk of collision are boat speed and whether or not compass bearings remains unchanged. Be aware of the position of overhead or underwater cables. These are invariably shown on the chart and you should not anchor near underwater cables. If your boat has a tall mast you must take care not to foul overhead cables. If your vessel is outboard or stern drive powered, make sure motor trim is correctly adjusted. Apart from improving the handling qualities of your boat, correct trimming will also improve the fuel economy of your motor. If your boat is fitted with trim tabs, make sure they are in good working order and use them for a smoother and more level ride. Some boats will achieve improved speed with properly adjusted trim tabs. GIVING WAY: Golden rule: look all around, give way to the right, turn to the right and stay to the right. In narrow channels such as rivers, creeks and canals, keep towards the Starboard Side of the channel and pass Port to Port HEAD ON: If two vessels are approaching each other head on and a collision is likely, one or both vessels alter course to Starboard and pass each other Port Side to Port Side. You should give a clear and early indication of your intention to alter course. OVERTAKING: When one vessel overtakes another, it may do so on either side but it must keep well clear until past the vessel being overtaken. This applies to both sail and power. It is considered wise to keep clear of the overtaken vessel until you are 100 to 150 metres ahead of that vessel. Only then should you choose to move back to the centre line of the channel. CROSSING: When two vessels approach each other at right angles, the vessel on the right has right of way. If you have the right of way, you should initially maintain course and speed. However if no right of way is given, you must take action to avoid a collision by your manoeuvre alone, either by altering the course and your speed. The right-of-way rule is not a substitute for commonsense. ÂŠ

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Collision Regulations Continued POWER AND SAIL: A power driven vessel generally gives way to sail unless the sailing boat is in the process of overtaking it. However donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect large less manoeuvrable boats under power to give way. All small craft should give large boats a wide berth. SAILING BOATS: Wind on different sides When a sailing boat has the wind on different sides, the boat with the wind on the port side shall keep out of the way of the other. If sailing a boat with the wind on the port side and you see a sailing boat to windward and cannot determine with certainty whether the boat has the wind on the port or starboard side, take action to keep clear. Wind on same side When both sailing boats have the wind on the same side, the boat to windward shall keep out of the way of the boat to leeward. Note: The windward side is the side opposite to that on which the mainsail is carried or, in the case of a square-rigged boat, the side opposite to that on which the largest fore and aft sail is carried. SPECIAL RIGHTS: Power-driven boats must give way to: Sailing boats (except if they are large with limited manoeuvrability) Boats engaged in commercial fishing and trawling Large boats constrained by their draught in channels Boats restricted in their ability to manoeuvre because of their work Boats unable to manoeuvre because of exceptional circumstances (not under command). These boats are recognisable during the day by their marks and at night by their lights.

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Collision Regulations Continued Negotiating Rivers & Channels

Vessels should travel on the Starboard side of the channel and pass Port to Port

Avoiding Head-On Collisions

Each vessel alters course to Starboard and pass Port to Port

Crossing Situation

Overtaking

Boat approaching from starboard has right of way, however if no right of way is given, take action to avoid a collision by your manoeuvre alone

Overtaking can be either side. The overtaking vessel is required to keep clear of the vessel being overtaken until well past and clear.

SHIPPING CHANNELS:

A combination of small craft and large ocean going ships in congested areas such as shipping channels raises the potential for dangerous outcomes. Large ships often travel at speeds in excess of 20 knots and fully laden cargo ships or tankers can have a stopping distance of 2.5 nautical miles. When travelling in narrower channels, such as entering a port, a ship can have little as 600mm under-keel clearance, and can neither turn nor slow down. A small boat within several hundred metres of a ship can go unseen from the helm of a ship if it is fully laden with cargo such as containers. Smaller vessels rarely appear on ships radar. Precautions should be undertaken when travelling across or alongside a shipping channel. Keep a proper lookout and monitor the appropriate VHF channel for example Channel 12 in Moreton Bay. Cross a shipping channel at 90 degrees behind a ship and never in front. Avoid fishing and anchoring within or alongside a designated shipping channel or lane.

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Speed Limits The wash from Makai at 4 Knots

The wash from Makai at 6 nots

Many boating areas have maximum speed limits which are enforceable. For safety reasons, it may be necessary to stay well below these limits depending on the conditions. Before boating in unfamiliar areas find out if there are any speed restrictions through the local marine authority and obey speed restriction signs. Approximate Speed Conversions k Knots

Approximate Kilometres Per Hour

1 6 15 40

1.8 11 28 74

Approximate Miles Per Hour

1.1 7 17 46

A NAUTICAL MILE is the universal measurement of Distance at Sea: One nautical mile = 1852 Metres A KNOT is the universal measurement of Speed at Sea: One Knot is One Nautical Mile per hour

The maximum speed limit in Smooth Water is 40 Knots unless otherwise signed. (Smooth Waters includes rivers, creeks, streams, dams, lakes, and waters within half a nautical mile from land within partially smooth limits, and other waters specified in legislation.)

Many speed limits are in place to minimise the wash created by boats. Therefore it is essential as a boat owner or skipper to maintain a speed that creates minimal wash. Wash can create serious safety hazards for other boats, especially in marinas and anchorages where there is an expectation of calm conditions. Wash can create damage to pontoons-jetties-shorelines-riverbanks and vessels that are in shallow water or anchored on the foreshore. Specific speed limits in Queensland waters are: 6 Knots within 30 metres of persons in the water 6 Knots within 30 metres of other boats anchored, moored or made fast to the shore or aground 6 Knots within 30 metres of a jetty, wharf, pontoon or boat ramp 6 Knots in harbours and marinas

For boats without speedometers, 6 knots is about 11km per hour and is equivalent to a brisk walking pace. Boats must stay at least 30 metres off a float; boat or structure that is showing a Code Flag A indicating that there is a diver below. Jet Skis must stay at least 60 metres off a float, boat or structure that is showing a Code Flag A.

Learn how to judge these distances or slow down well before hand. Always be aware of new signage & speed restrictions in place on the waterways. ÂŠ

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BAR CROSSING

A bar occurs where one body of water joins another e.g. the South Passage Bar where Moreton Bay flows into the Pacific Ocean. Be familiar with the turbulent dynamics of ocean going bars as they usually have breakwalls and structures designed to create a deep channel that will direct the flow of water. These areas should not be underestimated. Bars may be dangerous waters with shallows, strong tidal rips, currents, incoming waves, wind, fog and rain. All of this can change throughout the day adding up to unexpectedly dangerous conditions. The tide height and direction of flow can impact heavily on the state of the waves in coastal bars. Most bars are at their safest before high tide when the flow is still inwards (flooding) and depths are towards their greatest. The peak ebb flow (midway between high and the next low) will generally produce the worst conditions. The water flows fast from the channel and hits the incoming wave, creating a monstrous curl on the waves face. The ebb tide can close the gap between each wave, making it hard to position the boat. All the while the channel becomes shallower, exposing sandbars. Pressure waves, which run at an angle across the general flow, can wreak havoc. Even if the surface looks good, there may be unsafe conditions underneath. Always observe the wave patterns and conditions before attempting to cross a bar. Ensure your boat is seaworthy and capable of taking the impact from the waves. Remember if your boat is less than 4.8 metres then legally each person must wear a suitable sized Personal Floatation Device while crossing the ocean bar. Areas to be included where PFDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s must be worn are CurrumbinTallebudgera-Jumpinpin-South Passage-Caloundra-Maroochy-Noosa-Wide Bay-Mooloolah River mouth-Gold Coast Seaway and Round Hill Creek. In our own opinion all persons should wear a PFD when crossing an ocean going bar no matter what size the vessel is. Prepare your vessel firstly by: Checking the steering, bilge, hatches and drains Check all lifesaving equipment and ensure it is close by Clear decks and secure all lines Secure movable items Ensure watertight integrity Check and test the engines, steering and controls Ensure the engines are drawing fuel from a full tank Always check the weather Always log on to your local Rescue Group to inform them of your intentions If you have never experienced an ocean going bar before we strongly urge you to seek assistance, either by taking an experienced skipper with you, calling up your local Coastguard or Air Sea Rescue groups and asking for their opinion or attend a Bar Crossing Course with a qualified instructor. ÂŠ

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Australian Builders Plate From July1st 2006 all new recreational craft manufactured or imported into Australia will be required to show an Australian Builders Plate. This plate provides essential safety information of the boat including the maximum number of people allowed on board, engine rating and weight and buoyancy performance. This enables informed decisions on purchase and encourages appropriate use of boats. The plate will be permanently fixed and readily visible to the boats operator in the cockpit or near the steering position. Owners who are upsizing motors on recreational boats or altering the performance by design may not be meeting their safety obligation if the engine is greater than what the manufacturer has recommended on the compliance plate.

Capacity Labels Overloading your boat is one of the easiest ways to capsize it. By allowing more people on board a boat than its maximum capacity, the risk of capsizing significantly increases. Overloading comprises the safety of everyone on board. Capacity labels have been designed to show how many people they can have safely on board. All registrable boats are to have capacity label(s) fitted if the vessel does not display a Builders Plate. The Capacity label needs to be placed adjacent to the boat’s control area, so that the operator is constantly reminded of their boat’s recommended loading capacity. Capacity labels must be fitted where they can be seen clearly from each steering position. There are three different capacity labels available: Power boats under 6 metres (Applies to dinghies, open runabouts, motor boats, half cabins and jet skis) Powered boats six metres or more (Applies to boats without flybridges or upper decks) Powered boats with a flybridge The label indicates the number of people the boat can safely carry in smooth water. The onus of safety rests with the operator at all times. When using the boat in exposed waters or in rough conditions, the operator should consider reducing the number of persons taken on the trip. As a guide, reduce this number by onethird when boating on the open sea or in rougher conditions. A capacity label is not required for recreational sailing ships, whether powered or not. Capacity Labels will not be required if the vessel has either a manufacturer’s plate or an Australian Builders Plate that is visible from each steering position on the boat.

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Water Classifications The chart below details the water classification for Moreton Bay. The water in all Queensland Ports is similarly classified. Water classifications affect speed limits and what safety equipment must be on board the vessel. Red line designates limits beyond which EPIRBS must be carried.

Land

Pumicestone Passage

Smooth Water

Mud Island St. Helena Island

Partially Smooth Water

Brisbane River

Green Island Peel Island

Beyond Smooth & Partially Smooth Water (OPEN WATERS)

Indicates the point from where you must carry an EPIRB (2 nautical mile radius from land and beyond in open waters only) ÂŠ

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Safety Equipment Ensure the correct safety equipment is on board for the area you intend to operate in and for the possible hazards you can foresee. All safety equipment must be properly stowed out of harms away and in a dry area of your boat and within easy reach of all on board. Keep a check of the expiry dates on your Flares and Epirbs and mount your Epirb on the vessel where it can easily be retrieved for when you are facing that life-threatening situation. Flares should be kept in a watertight container in a place where they don’t receive too much pounding. PFD’s must be of the correct size and fitting for each person and the correct type for the area of water you are operating in. Jackets must bear the compliance marks of accredited certification bodies. Some international PFD’s are now also accepted as alternatives to Australian Standards. A new standard as of February 2010 has been introduced for PFD’s,

Level 100 - PFD Type 1 To comply with Australian standard 4758 it must be marked Level 100 Level 275 or Level 150 To comply with Australian Standard 1512-1996 it must be marked PFD Type 1. This PFD is a buoyant vest that will keep you afloat in the water for a long period of time because of the flotation collar. It is highly visible in either orange or yellow and has reflective tape to increase visibility at night. They can be used in all waters but are most useful when boating offshore or in rough conditions. Never to be used for water sports but can be used in your boat in Smooth, Partially Smooth and Open waters.

Level 100 Type 1

Level 275 - PFD Type 1 This PFD is a Coastal and Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) PFD and are designed to keep the body afloat for long periods of time. They have more flotation than a Level 100. The have reflective tape to improve visibility at night and a whistle attached to attract attention. These are particularly good jackets to have on board when operating long distances from shore.

Level 150 - PFD Type 1 Inflatable PFD’s are available that are compact and suitable for wearing while being active around the boat. They must be gas inflated and not rely on oral inflation only. They must show an expiry date and be serviced by the manufacture or an authorised service centre annually or it can be serviced by yourself following a servicing programme from the manufacture and evidence of service must be documented and kept on the vessel.

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Safety Equipment Level 2 – PFD Type 2 To comply with Australian Standard 4758 it must be marked Level 50 Level 50 To comply with Australian Standard 1499-1996 it must be marked with PDF Type 2 Type 2 This PFD will keep you afloat but does not have a collar to support the head above water and are the recommended type for water sports. They are manufactured in visible safety colours and are suitable for the use of water-skiing or for people being towed in Smooth and Partially Smooth Waters. This PFD can be used by PWC riders in Smooth, Partially Smooth and Open Waters. Can be used for sailing boats and dinghies where the user is only in the water for a short period in Smooth and Partially Smooth Waters. Level 50 Special Purpose – PFD Type 3

Level 50 Special Purpose

To comply with Australian Standard 4758 it must be marked Level 50 Special Purpose To comply with Australian standard 2260-1996 it must be marked with PFD Type 3 This jacket may also be a specified buoyancy wet suit. This PFD has the same buoyancy as a Level 50 although colours are not as visible. These are not recommended for general boating use because the colours are less visible in search and rescue operations. It can be used for boating, skiing or people being towed and for PWC riders in Smooth Waters only.

Remember some types of life jackets are not the easiest to put on especially in the dark, it is a good idea to practice and in some circumstances preventive measures should be undertaken such as, to put a jacket on at the first sign of bad weather or perhaps if you are boating alone and especially if you are in unfamiliar waters. All approved PFDs require markings that can be used to identify them as meeting the Australian standard which include: Manufacturer’s name, trade name or trademark The words Level 100 Level 150 Level 275 Level 50 & Level 50 Special Purpose or PFD TYPE 1 PFD TYPE 2, OR PFD TYPE 3 Manufacturer’s model identification, batch identification and year of manufacture Intended body mass range Illustrated instructions for donning the PFD Instructions for storage and care Information relating to replacement or checking of gas cylinders of inflatable PFD’s All PFS’s must be in good condition with no colour fading and no stiff, cracked or torn fabric. For clarification check the Maritime Safety Queensland website. www.msq.qld.gov.au

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Safety Equipment Continued Under 12 Under 4.8m Underway

Children under the age of 12 years in an open boat under 4.8 metres must wear a life jacket while underway, this also includes when drifting.

The wearing of life jackets is now compulsory for everyone in open boats under 4.8 metres while crossing a coastal bar.

Mooloolah River Mouth Gold Coast Seaway

Round Hill Creek Currumbin Bar Tallebudgera Bar

Jumpinpin Bar South Passage Bar

Caloundra Bar Maroochy Bar Noosa Bar

Life Jackets Legislation requires every boat owner to inform his passengers about the location of the safety equipment on board the vessel. The words Life Jackets must be placed on the vessel indicating the position of the PFDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on that vessel. Colour to be used, red on white or white on red. Stickers are available at most boating outlets.

Life Jackets Safety Equipment Continued

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Safety Equipment Continued

Emergency (Help! Help! My boats on fire!)

Position (Vessel is 4 nautical miles north east of Comboyuro Point)

Indicating (Transmitting signal from beacon to satellite with bar code indicating ownership)

Radio (Signal emitting to aircraft and satellites)

Beacon (This safety unit could help save your life)

Epirbs must be registered with AMSA AMSA will provide owners with a sticker as proof of current registration

An Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon (EPIRB) is a compact, buoyant, self-contained radio transmitter which continually emits a distinctive radio signal to aircraft and satellites for at least 48 hours when activated. It is a valuable form of safety equipment that you will use when you have a life-threatening situation on board your vessel. The standard Epirb is the digital 406 MHz. The analogue 121.5MHz are no longer monitored by the satellite system. The 406MHz EPIRB is far superior and has many advantages: A distress beacon alert is usually detected by the Rescue Coordination Centre within minutes from the geostationary satellites and on average within 90 minutes using the orbiting satellites compared with up to 5 hours with the 121.5 MHz. More accurate positing – 5 km is the typical accuracy and is improved to 120m with a built in GPS, compared to within 20km for a 121.5 MHz. Identifies the unit in trouble when they are registered to an international database at the Australian Maritime Safety Authority. AMSA will record the ships details so as to aid rescue authorities and minimise false alerts. The digital transmission are higher powered, more reliable, more robust, have less interference and can have strobe lights to assist with night rescue. 406 MHz EPIRBS come in two different types. One requires manual activation, the other will automatically activate when submerged in water. To activate manually, the antenna must be vertical. The on button is protected by a sliding door, which is fitted with a tamper seal. After 3 minutes a red light will flash, indicating the EPIRB is transmitting. It should have a clear view to the sky to maximise its signal. Always store your EPIRB on the boat in a position where it will be easily accessed and only use the EPIRB when there is an acute emergency (boat on fire-hit a submerged object and sinking fast). Assess the situation if the vessel is sinking then attach the EPIRB to yourself via the lanyard and let it bob along in the water behind you. Epirb batteries have expiry dates, which should be shown clearly both on the battery and the outside of the beacon. Check the manufacturer’s requirements for battery replacement. ©

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Safety Equipment Continued Flares indicate assistance is required and show your location to a search craft. Use flares when there are other boats or aircraft in the area. Two red hand held flares and two orange smoke flares must be carried in boats when operating in partially smooth and open waters. Flares can be easily identified at night by the raised symbols on top of the flare. “O” for the orange flare and “x” symbol on the red flare. Orange flares are only visible during the day and the smoke emitting from the flare can be seen up to 4 kilometres away. Red flares are to be used at night and will glow for approximately 60 seconds. The glow can be seen up to 10 kilometres away. Remember flares can become very hot when they ignite, especially the red one, so hold the flare downwind and away from passengers and do not stand anywhere near your fuel tank. Cool the flare by dipping it into the ocean and then stow it until you have returned. Flares do have an expiry date on them, so keep this in mind when you purchase to see that you have a shelf life of approximately 3 years from the date of purchase. There are severe penalties for misuse of flares.

A V Sheet can be spread over the bow of the boat to indicate a distress to aircraft or other vessels Example run out of fuel Motor broken down

If your vessels lights are not working (flat battery) carry a torch, lantern or cyalume stick. This will help in the prevention of a collision. To alert another vessel indicate the distress by the movement of your arms, make an arc of your arms and move from left side to right side

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Safety Equipment Continued-Safety equipment requirements are divided into three areas. Compulsory equipment for all boats Compulsory equipment for all registrable boats Recommended equipment to be carried to satisfy “General Safety Obligation”

Safety Equipment for all Recreational Boats Non-registrable boat means recreational boats with an engine or auxiliary under 3kw (4hp) Registrable boat means recreational boats with an engine of 3kw (4hp) or over Required means equipment that must be carried Recommended means equipment that is suggested to be carried to meet the General Safety Obligation EQUIPMENT

SMOOTH WATER

NonRegistrable Boat

Registrable Boat

PARTIALLY SMOOTH WATERS NonRegistrable Boat

Registrable Boat

EPIRB Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon

SIGNALLING DEVICE

REQUIRED

BEYOND SMOOTH AND PARTIALLY SMOOTH WATER (OPEN WATERS) NonRegistrable Boat

Registrable Boat

REQUIRED

When operating 2 nm from land

When operating 2nm from land

REQUIRED

(Torch etc.)

PFD’S (Life Jackets)

PFD TYPE

1-2-3 or

1 or 2

One of the appropriate sizes for each person 12 months and over.

Level 275,150,100 Level 50 or Level 50 special purpose

1-2-3 boat *2-3 sports Level 275,150, 100, Level 50, 50 Special

1 or 2 boat *2 sports Level 275, 150,100, Level 50

Children under 12 years must wear the PFD when underway in an open boat under 4.8metres

Recommended

SURE YOUR CREW AND GUESTS KNOW HOW TO PUT ON A PFD!

PFD TYPE

Level 275,150,100

1 boat *2 sports Level 275, 150,100

Recommended

*Sports

Purpose

*Sports Level 50 or Level 50 special purpose REQUIRED

MAKE

Level 275,150,100 or Level 50

PFD TYPE 1

Except in a river, creek or stream, or waters contained within breakwaters or revetments if the boat has positive flotation and grab handles, lines or a secure hold for each person on-board. PFD is not required for a tender to a recreational boat if used within 1km of the primary boat and tender has a positive floatation statement ***in the approved form

Recommended

*Sports Level 50

Level 50

REQUIRED

PFD must be worn when crossing designated bars in open boats under 4.8 metres

PFD not required for a tender to a recreational boat if used within 1km of the primary boat and tender has a positive floatation statement *** in the approved form

PFD must be worn when crossing designated bars in open boats under 4.8 metres

PFD not required for a tender to a recreational boat if used within 1km of the primary boat and tender has a positive floatation statement *** in the approved form

*Sports = Water Skiing, Wake Boarding, Parasailing, Tobogganing, or Jet Skiing (Personal Watercraft) *** in the approved form = A positive floatation statement which is a certificate from a manufacturer or an accredited marine surveyor

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Safety Equipment for all Recreational Boats Continued Non-registrable boat means recreational boats with an engine or auxiliary under 3kw (4hp) Registrable boat means recreational boats with an engine of 3kw (4hp) or over Required means equipment that must be carried Recommended means equipment that is suggested to be carried to meet the General Safety Obligation

EQUIPMENT

SMOOTH WATER

NonRegistrable Boat

Registrable Boat

V SHEET

FLARES

FIRE FIGHTING EQUIPMENT

Recommended

REQUIRED All boats over 5 metres

NAVIGATION Chart and a compass

For boats less than 5m, the cable can be chain or rope. For boats over 5m the cable can be chain of at least 2m attached to anchor and rope

PUMPING OR BAILING EQUIPMENT

Recommended

BEYOND SMOOTH AND PARTIALLY SMOOTH WATERS (OPEN WATERS)

NonRegistrable Boat

Registrable Boat

NonRegistrable Boat

Registrable Boat

Recommended

REQUIRED

Recommended

REQUIRED

Recommended

REQUIRED 2 Red & 2 Orange

Recommended

REQUIRED 2 Red & 2 Orange

Recommended

REQUIRED All boats over 5 metres

Recommended

REQUIRED All boats over 5 metres

**REQUIRED

CAPACITY LABEL

ANCHOR

PARTIALLY SMOOTH WATERS

**REQUIRED

Recommended

Less than 5m, one anchor with 18m cable

Less than 5m, one anchor with 27m cable

5-8m one anchor with 27m cable

5-8m, one anchor with 27m cable

Over 8m, two anchors with 37m cable each

Recommended

Under 5m: suitable bailing equipment

5-8m: bilge pump 45L per minute bailing capacity

Over 8m: bilge pump 70L per minute bailing capacity

MANUAL PROPULSION Oars or paddles

Recommended Boats under 6 metres

Recommended Boats under 6 metre

Recommended Boats under 6 metres

DRINKING WATER

Recommended Min 2 litres per person

**Capacity Label can be either an Australian Builders Plate or a label issued by MSQ

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Sound Signals Most recreational boats less than 12 metres do not use sound signals; however larger boats use them and being aware of what these sound signals stand for may help with your course of action that may need to be taken. Sound signals may be accompanied by light signals. Boats over 12 metres should carry sound signals a whistle and a bell. Vessels less than 12 metres should have some means of making an efficient sound signal. A long blast is about 4 to 6 seconds long shown thus: A short blast is about 1 to 2 seconds duration shown thus: Common signals used are: I am altering my course to starboard: I am altering my course to port: I am operating in with astern propulsion: I am alerting the other boat-I am unsure of your intentions: All boats should sound a fog signal in restricted visibility to alert others of their positions. The most common fog signals, sounded at intervals not exceeding two minutes include. Power boat underway, making way: (engine running) Power boat under way not making way through water: (drifting-no engine) Sailing, fishing, working boats making way: (under power)

Water Skiing Water skiing involves the towing of a person or persons behind a boat (on skis, bare feet, inflatable toys, wake boards, tubes, toboggans or a parasail). The owner or master of the skiing vessel has a responsibility for the safety of others and has a safety obligation to: Make sure the vessel is safe and capable of towing skiers. Is responsible for ensuring that the waterway is safe for skiing. Check for sufficient depth of water, width to make turns safely and any other hazards e.g. beacons, buoys and bridges. Certain areas may be gazetted as non-skiing area it is the Skipper’s responsibility to determine if such is the case in an area you intend to use.

“OK after a fall”

Water Skiing is prohibited: In certain areas usually designated by signs In all six knot zones including harbours and marinas Within 30 metres of people in the water, anchored boats, diver’s flag, jetties, pontoons or boat ramps Within 60 metres of people in the water if operating a PWC Water skiing is permitted in all other areas however it is the responsibility of the driver to ensure the area is safe and suitable for skiing. The Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast have some designated water ski areas and times for operations. These are clearly marked by signs. For restricted areas go to www.msq.qld.gov.au When water skiing the skier must wear a PFD (life Jacket) at all times. Level 50 or Level 50 Special Purpose (PFD Type 2-3) or a wetsuit with inbuilt floatation approved as a Level 50 Special Purpose in Smooth Water Limits. Level 50 (PFD Type 2) in Partially Smooth Water and Open Waters Limits. ©

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70 When towing skiers, the vessel must have an observer on board older than 12 years of age and competent enough to watch the skier at all times. Their responsibilities should include: To tell the operator of the vessel if there is a danger, or potential danger to the skier (such as another vessel in close proximity) To observe the skier’s hand signals and act upon the signal To tell the operator of the vessel if the skier has a fall or mishap When skiing in lakes, rivers, and creeks, boats should travel in an anticlockwise pattern. In a few locations, local customs and conditions may dictate the direction of travel. Safety Tips: The tip of the ski must always be showing before the boat starts. After a fall, a skier should always clasp hands over head if unhurt until seen by the observer and boat driver. No signal from a fallen skier calls for immediate action by the observer and driver. A fallen skier getting into a boat should leave their skis in the water and swim towards the boat. The driver should always stop the engine, before picking up the skiers from the water. Skiers should enter a boat over the stern whenever possible.

A sample of suggested water ski signals!

Start - Nod of the head

Cut the Motor - Finger drawn across throat in cutting motion

Speed ok – Arm raised with thumb and forefinger making an “O”

Faster – Open palm facing up motioning upwards

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Signal Flags

The international codes of signal flags are used as a means of communication. Each letter of the alphabet has a corresponding flag. A great many messages can be sent by combining hoists of code flags. It is most unusual for a trailer boat to carry a full complement of signal flags; however you should become familiar with some of the flags, which are sometimes flown from larger vessels and special purpose craft.

Below are just a sample of what flags can indicate, and ones that are more commonly seen and used in our vicinity.

During night diving, a boat must show the international signal for a “vessel restricted in its ability to manoeuvre”. These are three lights as shown here.

CODE FLAG “A” Alpha

The international signal Code Flag “A” flown alone and sometimes flown from an anchored buoy means “DIVER BELOW”. This flag clearly indicates that a diver is in the water and special care should be taken in the vicinity. Be sure to use the flag on your vessel if you ever engage in diving. Boats must stay at least 30 metres away from a vessel engaged in diving and Personal Watercraft must keep a distance of 60 metres.

CODE FLAG “B” Bravo

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The vessel is involved in carrying, taking on, or discharging dangerous cargo Keep a safe distance!

CODE FLAG “R” Romeo OVER CODE FLAG “Y” Yankee The “R” flag flown directly above the “Y” flag means no wash. Usually flown from a shore base but could be flown from a special purpose vessel for example a barge. You will notice there is no speed limit associated with this message but you must reduce speed until your vessel produces no wash.

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Anchors

An anchor is a heavy object, often made out of metal that is used to attach a ship to the bottom of the seabed at a specific point. An anchor works by resisting the movement force of the vessel that is attached to it. There are two primary ways to do this via sheer mass and by hooking into the seabed. It may seem logical to think wind and currents are the largest forces an anchor must overcome, but actually the vertical movement of waves develop the largest loads and modern anchors are designed to use a combination of technique and shape to resist all these forces. Basic anchoring consists of determining the location, dropping the anchor, laying out the scope, setting the hook and assessing where the vessel ends up. Before anchoring consider: Is the anchorage protected? Does the seabed have good holding ground? What is the depth, tidal flow and the current state of the tide? What is the wind strength? Are you in close proximity of other vessels? The purpose of the chain between the anchor and the anchor line is to keep the stock or shank of the anchor parallel to the seabed that then allows the flukes of the anchor to gain maximum penetration into the seabed. The chain also helps the anchor line chafing the bottom, generally the bigger the boat the more chain you require. Secure the anchor rope to the boat and always place it in a neat condition in the anchor well of the boat. When anchoring don’t just throw line and anchor over together, it may tangle and foul the flukes. It is a good idea to lower the rope hand over hand, and then let it touch the bottom and let the boat go astern until sufficient line is laid. Always check to see if the boat is not drifting and when you want to retrieve the anchor start up the engine and slowly motor along the line of the anchor rope, bringing in the rope and feeding it into the bin. Don’t over-run the rope. Don’t anchor by the stern, as this is one of the surest ways to sink your boat. Anchoring by the stern causes the stern to sit too low in the water and waves may easily wash overboard. When anchored the ratio of line to let out to depth of water is called the scope. It is a good idea is mark off the rope at regular intervals with coloured tape, so you’ll know how much rope to release so that the anchor sets correctly. The greater the scope, the more secure the anchor as the pull on the line will be flatter and the flukes will dig in more firmly. More scope is essential when anchoring in rough conditions. Allow extra scope when anchoring overnight. ©

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Scope in Calm conditions = 5 x depth of water = 30 metres

In extremely calm weather conditions with little or no tidal flow a 3 to 1 ratio is adequate depending on the size of the anchor.

Scope in Rough conditions = 8 x depth of water = 48 metres

Depth of water 6 metres

S C O P E

Attach a minimum of 2metres of chain to your anchor

DO NOT ANCHOR! * Do not anchor within 30 metres of a boat ramp or jetty. * Do not anchor a ship within 50 metres of a signed under water cable or pipeline. * Do not anchor a ship within 100 metres of a dam wall, spillway or weir. * Do not anchor a ship in gazetted waters where presence of anchored ships involves a danger to aircraft E.g. Sea Planes. * Do not anchor, berth, moor or operate a vessel in gazetted waters where doing so endangers marine safety. Other than an emergency, boats must not anchor in major shipping channels near navigation beacons or important notices. In certain areas such as the Tangalooma Wrecks, Pumicestone Passage and the Brisbane River, “No Anchoring” signs are in place so please keep a lookout for them. To protect corals from anchor damage, there are three “no anchoring” areas in the Moreton Bay Marine Park where anchoring is not allowed. These areas are at FLAT ROCK - FLINDERS REEF - MYORA REEF. TYPES OF ANCHORS The Danforth Anchor is a good all-purpose anchor designed for small crafts. The anchor has excellent holding power in mud and sand. The folded flat design makes it very economical for space in anchor wells. The anchor has a small stock passing through the crown to prevent the anchor from rolling when its flukes dig into the bottom. This anchor loses holding power considerably when at a short stay; it needs a high scope ratio. It tends to break out easily if the strain comes from a much different direction to that in which it was set. It is also subject to fowling more readily than others.

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75 The improved Danforth Anchor is a very easy retrievable type of anchor for the use in seabeds of sand and mud.

The Bruce Anchor has excellent holding power in sand and mud and requires a relatively short scope. It will not foul its rode and needs low force to break out. It has no moving parts and is exceptionally strong and easy to handle and stow on a bow roller. It is difficult to stow on deck.

The Reef or Grapnel Anchor is constructed of a 60-90cm length of G.I. pipe, through which two lengths of 1.9-2.5cm round-bent iron is inserted. The bights of the round steel protrude at one end of the pipe. The opposite end of the round steel is bent in the shape like the ribs of an umbrella. The grapnel anchor rarely has enough fluke area to develop much hold in sand, clay or mud but is excellent to use on rocky reefs. This anchor should not be used on coral reefs due to the environmental damage.

Para Anchor

Sea Anchor

A Sea Anchor or Para anchor is a small drogue acting like a parachute and is used in heavy seas to slow the drift and keep the bow of the boat into the wind and the waves. This will also provide more comfortable conditions when drifting in choppy seas. If you plan to go boating offshore or on an extended trip, a sea anchor is a valuable piece of equipment to have on board.

Always attach a minimum of 2 metres of chain to the anchor and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t use an anchor line that floats such as polypropylene. Silver rope is good but nylon is better as it has superior stretching properties, higher tensile strength and greater abrasion resistance.

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Alcohol And Safe Boating The effects of alcohol are enhanced while on the water due to the sun, wind, waves and constant motion. It can erode a sense of balance, fade vision, impair judgement and adversely affect co-ordination, all of which reduce the ability to safely handle a boat. Reflexes and response times to emergencies are slowed dramatically. The alcohol limit of 0.05 applies on boats as it does on the road. L & P licenced persons must remain zero The master is responsible for the safe handling of the boat even if another person is actually driving the boat. It is therefore, the master’s responsibility to stay below the 0.05 limit at all times and to ensure that any person driving the boat is also under the limit. There are heavy penalties for persons convicted of operating the boat while under the influence of alcohol or a drug ranging from monetary penalties to imprisonment and the marine drivers licence may be suspended or cancelled. A master may be convicted of being in charge of a boat under the influence of liquor or a drug even though someone else is driving the boat-just like an instructor would be liable if under the influence while the driver, on a learners permit is sober. This emphasises that the master is at all times responsible for the safety of the boat and all on board. Being under the influence of a drug does not refer only to illegal substances. Prescription medications may also pose problems, particularly if mixed with even a small amount of alcohol. Seasickness preventatives, hay fever and other allergy preparations can induce drowsiness and make you easily confused. Skippers of recreational boats should also be aware that, when their boat is anchored, it may still be considered to be used for navigation, and the blood alcohol limit applies. The limit does not change unless the boat is securely moored in a marina, to a jetty or wharf or on a swing mooring. If the holder of any marine licence has been convicted of a drink driving offence in a road motor vehicle, their marine drivers licence can be cancelled or suspended. ALCHOL CONSUMPTION MAY VOID YOUR INSURANCE COVER AND MAY DIRECTLY COMPRISE YOUR GENERAL SAFETY OBLIGATION. FOR MEN: More than two standard drinks in the first hour can tip you over the 0.05 limits. Reduce the risk as most men can only safely manage two standard drinks in the first hour and one drink for each hour after that. RE THINK YOUR THIRD DRINK FOR WOMEN: more than one standard drink in the first hour can tip a woman over the 0.05 limits. Reduce the risk as most women can only safely manage one standard drink each hour. RE THINK YOUR SECOND DRINK

Alcohol and Boating it’s a Deadly Mix

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First Aid At Sea Treating some of the common medical situations associated with boating:

Hypothermia! Hypothermia is when the body’s core becomes cold. While the temperature of the environment and the skin can fluctuate widely, the inner body core temperature must remain constant. If the core temperature fluctuates by as little as 1 degree, major medical problems can result. In cold air or water a person can feel very cold, however it takes 10-15 minutes before vital organs are affected. Shivering adjusts core temperature in mild cases, as does exercise and food. Disorientation and loss of consciousness occur when the core temperature has dropped from the normal 37degrees to approximately 30 to 32 degrees centigrade. Death, caused by heart failure, can be the result of core temperature dropping below 30 degrees centigrade. When in water hypothermia has a more indirect way of causing death. Long before the core temperature has dropped to below 30 degrees centigrade, loss of consciousness will cause a victim to submerge and drown. Wearing a life jacket will prevent submersion and, in some cases, even provide protection from hypothermia.

The critical heat loss areas are: Top of the head

Sides of the neck

Sides of the rib cage

Upper thigh and groin area

Techniques to help lessen the effect of hypothermia: The HELP (Heat Escape Lessening Posture) technique minimises the main areas of heat loss the head the sides of the chest and the groin area. If wearing a PFD type one always tilt your head back and rest it on the life jackets collar. Bring your legs into a crouching position thus keeping the groin area warm, and cross your arms in front of you onto your chest keeping the underarm area warm.

The HUDDLE technique is useful if there is a group of people in the water. The warmth of the people staying together so that their chests and arms are protected can increase their survival time. The SURVIVAL position is a well-known technique requiring continuous movement of the arms and legs. If not wearing a jacket, try to hold on to a buoyant object to maintain the head above the water.

To help survive in the cold water: Don’t remove any clothing. Where possible button up, buckle up, zip up and tighten up collars, cuffs, hoods and shoes. Devote your efforts to remove yourself from the water as quickly as possible, by climbing onto a floating object or your vessel if it has capsized. Don’t attempt to swim unless you can reach a nearby boat or land. Remain as still as possible and maintain a positive mental attitude.

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First Aid At Sea Heat Exhaustion! If someone on your vessel is feeling any of the following; faintness, giddiness, headache, nausea, cramps, pale, clammy, sweating, rapid breathing, rapid pulse, then heat exhaustion is more than likely the problem. Keep the patient shaded. Remove unnecessary clothing and sponge torso with cool water. If possible put a wet towel over them and use something to fan them. Apply ice packs to the armpits and groin area and give frequent drinks of water.

Seasickness! Take pre-emptive action to avoid seasickness in your crew or guests by avoiding alcohol, rich food before and during the trip. Try to focus on the horizon not on the water and stay in the fresh air on the deck of the boat and preferably stay away from any fumes. Sometimes just nibbling on a dry biscuit, chewing barley sugar or dried fruit may help but a good antiseasickness remedy is ginger. There are also many medical remedies on the market such as wrist bands and patches for behind the ears, but it would be best to seek medical advice before sampling any products. The list of medical emergencies that could arise on your vessel, particularly if you are a long way out to sea, could be quite substantial so we canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t emphasise enough the importance of having a FIRST-AID CERTIFICATE and carrying a quality MARINE FIRST-AID KIT on board.

Registration All boats fitted with a motor above 4hp (3 kw) require registration when on the water in Queensland. Registration forms are available at a Queensland Transport Customer Service Centre and must be lodged once your vessel has been purchased. The boat will be allocated registration symbols. These must be clearly visible in plain characters in a contrasting colour to the hull of the boat. When a registered boat is sold it is the responsibility of the new owner to lodge an application for transfer of the registration within 14 days. Non-planing hull vessels registration symbols must be a minimum of 75mm high and placed on both sides of the craft or on the stern. Planing hull vessels registration symbols must be of a minimum of 200mm high on both sides of the craft. Tenders to registered recreational boats are exempt from registration provided they are used within two nautical miles of the mother boat. The vessel must be marked with the word tender and bare the same registration symbols of the mother boat, these symbols may be placed on the inside of the boat if not possible on the outside.

200mm

Label must be on the PORT side.

Registration labels must be placed on the port hand side of the vessel alongside the registration symbols. ÂŠ

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Marine Incident Reporting All marine incidents must be reported to a Shipping Inspector within 48 hours of the incident, unless there is a reasonable excuse. Shipping inspectors are marine safety officers (located at Maritime Safety Queensland marine operations bases), and officers of Queensland Water Police and Queensland Boating and Fisheries Patrol. A “Marine Incident Report” form must be completed. These forms can be downloaded from www.msq.qld.gov.au It is vital for the boat owner to report the incident, as most insurance companies will not honour the claim without a copy of the report form attached. A reportable incident may include: The loss of a person from a boat The death of, or grievous bodily harm to, a person caused by a boats operation The loss or presumed loss or abandonment of a boat A collision of a boat The stranding of a boat Material damage to the boat Material damage caused by a boat’s operations Danger to a person caused by a boat’s operations Danger of serious damage to a boat Danger of serious damage to a structure caused by a boat’s operations If involved in an incident involving more than one boat it is a legal requirement (in addition to reporting) to: Render any possible assistance without endangering passengers or crew Stay at the scene of the incident to ensure the safety of all involved Give details of the owner of the boat to the operator if any other boat involved Assist any injured persons Assist the owner with any damaged property It is an offence not to report a marine incident and can result in a fine up to $300

Insurance Are you aware there is no third party insurance on boat registration!!!!!!!!!! Third party cover is usually part of the insurance that you should arrange privately. It would be foolish to operate a vessel uninsured; the aftermath could see you facing a huge damages claim. Some Insurance companies will not insure hulls past a certain age. Before purchasing a vessel, you should make sure it can be insured and you should arrange at least a cover note before you take the vessel anywhere by sea or land. Insurance coverage to meet the cost of pollution clean-up and salvage operations, following an accident is now mandatory for a recreational vessel between 15 and 34 metres (50 to 115 feet) in length in Queensland. It is compulsory to have insurance cover in place to meet up to $250,000 of clean-up costs of any pollutants discharged into coastal waters and you will need a further $10,000,000 cover in place for the operator’s legal liability. Additionally, all operators are required to have insurance cover in place to meet the needs of salvage or removal of the boat from coastal waters if it is abandoned or wrecked. ©

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Moreton Bay Marine Parks The Moreton Bay Marine Park covers the south-east corner of Queensland from Caloundra to the Cold Coast. The habitats found in the Marine Park include open ocean, sandy beaches, coral reefs, rocky shores, seagrass and sponge beds, mangrove forests, mudflats and sandbanks. These habitats support a diversity of marine fauna and flora including more than 1000 species of fish, that share the waters with six of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s seven species of marine turtles and several threatened species such as grey nurse sharks and dugongs. The Moreton Bay Marine Park is divided into different Zones and below is your user guide for the Marine Park.

ENTRY AND USE GUIDE

General use Zone

Boating Line Fishing Trolling Crabbing Bait Gathering Bait Netting Netting (other than bait netting) Limited Spearfishing Limited Collecting Trawling

Habitat protection zone

Conservation park zone

Marine national park zone

Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes Yes

Yes Yes-a Yes-a Yes-c Yes Yes No-b

Yes No-b No-b No-b No-b No-b No-b

Yes

No-b

Yes-d

No-b

Yes

No-b

Note: a. = Up to two lines and a maximum of two hooks per angler b. = All equipment must be stowed or secured c. = Maximum of four pots per person d. = No coral. Limits apply to species and equipment (Note these are only a brief summary. Refer to www.derm.qld.gov.au (Department of Environment and Resource Management)

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81 There are designated areas to help manage specific issues that occur at specific locations in the Marine Park. The rules that apply to designated areas are in addition to zoning rules, not instead of them. There are nine designated areas in Moreton Bay Marine Park, four of these relate to recreational and commercial use of the park and five of which relate to activities such as dredging and works. Those affecting us boaties and jet skiers are: GO SLOW AREAS FOR TURTLES AND DUGONG Protect turtles and dugong from boat strike, which is a major threat to these species. All vessels must travel off-the-plane or in displacement mode and in a way that minimises the chance of a turtle or dugong being struck Motorised water sports are prohibited (Other than a straight line; for example driving in circles, weaving, and surfing down or jumping over waves, swell or wash. It also includes towing a person for water-skiing parasailing or wakeboarding) Vessels over 8 metres are restricted to 10 knots or less

GO SLOW AREAS FOR NATURAL VALUES Protect the natural integrity of the location and provide the opportunity for all marine park users to appreciate and enjoy the undisturbed values and beauty of an area without the interruption and impacts of fast moving vessels. All vessels must travel off-the-plane or in displacement mode Motorised water sports are prohibited NO ANCHORING AREAS Protect sensitive reef habitats from anchor damage. In these areas: Anchoring is prohibited Where public moorings are available they are on a “first come first served” basis and a two hour limit applies GREY NURSE SHARK AREAS Three grey nurse shark areas help conserve one of Australia’s most endangered marine species. Restrictions apply to activities such as diving. These areas are located within marine national park (green) zones where fishing is prohibited. Boat strike has a major impact on Marine animals and it is up to us to turn the tide. Travel slowly to protect these marine animals. This is also safer for you and your passengers. Turtles and dugong can be very difficult to see, especially in choppy water. These animals only surface for a few seconds to breathe, however they may be moving just below the surface. Boats are more likely to hit a turtle or dugong in shallow waters over seagrass beds or coral reefs. Ensure your vessel does not unreasonably disturb shorebirds anywhere in the marine park as there are fines in place. Recreational fishing and collecting is allowed in all zones except marine national park (green zones). All types of fishing, spear fishing, bait gathering and netting are prohibited in these zones. This means that hand held lines and hand held rods must be inboard the vessel or stored in rod holders with no part of the line in the water. Recreational fishers must observe all requirements and bag limits under the Fisheries Act 1994. Visit the Department of Primary Industries and Fisheries website at www.dpi.qld.gov.au for information.

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82 Diving is allowed in all zones in the marine park. However, divers must continue to observe the restrictions in place, in grey nurse shark areas at Cherubs Cave, Flat Rock and Henderson Rock. Divers can be fined up to $7500 for breaking these laws. Recreational Boaters should always keep a lookout for whales and stay away 100 metres but if there are more than 3 boats stay away 300 metres, jets skiers should stay away 300 metres.

Vessel off the Plane

Vessel on the Plane

KNOW THE GO-SLOW ZONES AND STUDY A CHART BEFORE YOU GO OUT ON THE WATER. PENALTIES ARE IN PLACE: $400 fine - Operating a vessel On-The-Plane $500 fine - Fishing or crabbing in a Marine National Park $500 fine - Fishing equipment not stowed or secured in a Marine National Park Zone $500 fine - Fishing using more than 2 lines and 2 hooks in a Conservation Park Zone $400 fine - Anchoring in a No Anchoring Area $600 fine - Touching a grey nurse shark in a Grey Nurse Shark Area $600 fine - Disturbing a grey nurse sharkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural behaviour in a Grey Nurse Shark Area The QPWS conducts regular patrols of the marine park to ensure compliance with the zoning plan. On-the-spot fines of up to $600 apply against breaches of the zoning plan.

Heritage Wrecks Any ship that sank more than 75 years ago is protected by State and Commonwealth regulations. Protected zones have been declared around some particularly fragile and historic shipwrecks and these are shown on nautical charts. It is an offence to enter a protected zone. It is also an offence to damage, disturb or interfere with any historic shipwreck. This includes anchoring on it or removing objects from the wreck.

Transfer of Exotic Weeds Prevent the spread of exotic weeds such as caulerpa taxifolia. It is a fast growing marine alga native to tropical Australia and can alter marine habitats and affect biodiversity. Remove check and clean and dry trailer boats and gear including fishing gear, anchors, ropes and chain before you move between different waterways. Dispose of any debris found on any boating and fishing gear into a plastic bag, seal it and place in the bin.

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Garbage Pollution

Unfortunately some boat operators are deliberately or accidentally throwing their garbage into our waterways, which directly contributes to the pollution problem. Most of our garbage today is made from nonbiodegradable products such as plastic, which persists, in the marine environment for many years. Marine animals such as fish, turtles, whales and water birds can die because they mistakenly eat plastic material for food. Others become entangled in garbage and plastic line causing death. Ropes, plastic material and fishing line can get caught in propellers and block water intakes causing major damage. Reduce the chance of garbage entering our waterways by: Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t throw anything overboard, including cigarette butts Have secure bins or garbage bags to store the rubbish on-board until you return to shore Avoid taking plastic bags or containers on-board Carry food in reusable containers and use crockery or re-usable cups, plates and cutlery Make the effort to retrieve lost or damaged fishing gear If garbage does end up in the water, take the time to retrieve it Know what garbage is on-board your boat: Packaging material Deck sweepings Metal Fishing gear

Paint scrapings Food Bottles Nets

Paper products Rags Crockery Bait boxes

Wood products Glass Wire All plastics

Total Ban on Plastic: The discharge of plastics into the sea is totally prohibited in any location. Boat operators must retain all plastic material for disposal at port facilities. Examples are fishing nets and gear, synthetic ropes, fibreglass, floats, six-pack holders, eating utensils and electrical components. As a general rule no discharge of garbage overboard. It should be stowed on board and disposed of responsibly once you are back on shore. Remember pollution is an offence, whether your boat is large or small deliberately discharging garbage into Queenslandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s coastal waters could result in fines of $350,000 for an individual or $1,750,000 for a company ÂŠ

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Some boat operators, deliberately or accidentally, discharge oil and chemicals into our waterways either through refuelling, boat maintenance and bilge discharges. Oil and chemicals can be toxic to marine and human life, so it is of the utmost importance not to discharge these products into the water from the ship. Oil products on boats include: *Petrol *Diesel

*Gear box oil *Hydraulic Oil

*Motor Oil *Two Stroke Oil

Chemical products on boats include: *Cooling system additives *Degreasers

*Cleaning agents *Acid and Paints

All boat operators need to manage the use and disposal of on-board oil and chemicals properly e.g. Always check the capacity of fuel tanks before refuelling When refuelling, insert the nozzle into the filler before starting the pump. Always turn the pump off and ensure that the flow has stopped before removing the nozzle Watch the breathers for signs of “blow-back” or overflow Do not overfill your fuel tank, leave 2% room for expansion If you overfill your fuel tank, wipe the spill up, and don’t hose the fuel into the water Supervise the operation of bilge pumps to ensure only water is being pumped into the waterways Review the installation of your bilge pump’s float switch to stop oil accidentally discharging with bilge water If you use degreasers or detergents, including biodegradable products to clean your bilge, make sure the residue is not discharged through the bilge Repair oil and fuel leaks when first noticed For everyday deck scrubbing use clean water and only use chemicals for severe staining Read the product information before you decide on any chemical cleaner. If it is toxic to humans then it will not be good for marine life If you accidentally discharge oil or chemicals into the water, let the regional harbour master, marina operator or port authority know so that the area may be cleaned up before it creates a disaster to the marine environment.

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Sewage Pollution Management The discharge of sewage from boats contributes to reduced water quality, poses a human and animal health risk and decreases visual aesthetics of waterways. Boat owners and operators must adopt on-board sewage management measures if sewage is likely to be generated. This could be a portable toilet, holding tank or a sewage treatment system. As of 1st January 2010, it is an offence for a vessel with more than 16 persons on board to discharge untreated sewage (sewage that has not passed through a sewage treatment system), into any Queensland coastal waterway. Prohibited discharge waters No discharge of treated and untreated sewage is allowed in: Boat harbours Canals Marinas Designated areas of State Marine Parks

Wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to put my feet in this water

If your vessel has on board sewage facilities, more information is available on www.msq.qld.gov.au or Phone enquiries can be made to 31207432 or 31207429

Noise Management Noise complaints can be made by phoning 1300 130 372 Be considerate about noise as it is amplified on the water making engine noise and music appear louder. For the enjoyment of everyone, noise should not be offensive. Noise also disturbs wildlife, so care should be taken to reduce noise in the vicinity of waterbirds and other animals. Factors have to be taken into account: * Character of the noise * Time of the noise event

* Quality of the noise * Waterside land use

* The effect the noise has on activities * Number of people affected

As a general guideline, for recreational ships and Personal Watercraft, the maximum noise level for engines is 85dB (A) at 30 metres. Complaints regarding noise should be directed to the Department of Environment and Resource Management or the local government authority (council).

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Some Useful Knots At Sea There are many different knots associated with boating e.g. REEF KNOT

A Reef Knot is a simple and quick way to join two ropes of similar size. It is also the easiest rope to get undone. The reef knot can be used to tie the two ends of a single line together such that they will secure something, for example a bundle of objects that is unlikely to move much. In addition to being used by sailors for reefing and furling sails. It is best traditionally described as: Left over Right – Twist Through Right over Left – Twist Through

BOWLINE A Bowline is one of the most useful shipboard knots, used to form a standing loop in the end of a line, which is ideal to put over a cleat or bollard when mooring your vessel. The bowline is easy to tie and produces a strong non-slip knot, and it is easy to undo. One way of tying this knot is first to form a bight and thread the working end up through it. Complete the knot by passing the end around behind the standing part and back down through the bight and then pulling it through.

SHEEPSHANK The Sheepshank is a useful knot for two purposes. It can be used to temporarily shorten a rope or it could be used to allow a rope with a damaged or frayed part to be still used (the damaged part would be in the centre, where there is no tension). One of the properties of this knot is that it can get easily undone without tension, so to keep it in place, tension needs to be applied on both sides of the knot. Very handy for shortening a rope when towing another vessel

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Coastguard & Volunteer Marine Rescue Groups These volunteer groups are called to countless rescues each year ranging from flat batteries, mechanical failures to life threatening search and rescue operations. Being a member of a volunteer rescue group provides you with peace of mind for you and your family while you are on the water. Use your marine radio to log onto the rescue group each and every time you go out on the water even if you are only out on the water for a short time.

If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a marine radio on board log into your mobile phone the number of your closest Coastguard or Air Sea Rescue branch, so that if you have a mishap while out on the water, at least you can get in touch with someone that can come to your aid quickly.

Coast Guard Brisbane Coast Guard Redcliffe Coast Guard Caloundra Coast Guard Southport VMR Bribie Island Seaway Tower

33965911 32035522 54913533 55311421 34087596 55912948

VMR Jacobs Well VMR Raby Bay Coast Guard Noosa Coast Guard Redland Bay Coast Guard Mooloolaba VMR Sandgate

55461100 38212444 54743695 32067777 54443222 32698888

Authority On The Waterways Registration, Licensing, Safety Equipment, Speed Limits, Marine Parks and other regulations affecting recreational boating are enforced by the Water Police and the Boating and Fishing Patrol. Their role is to conduct on-water enforcement patrols targeting known hot spots. Regular and random checking is now a feature of modern boating.

Brisbane Water Police 38950333 Redland Bay 38294129 Gold Coast 55095700 Sunshine Coast 54138788

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Always be Prepared for the Unexpected CAPSIZE To capsize can be an inherent part of boating and in small sailing vessels it can be quite frequent, it’s when the vessel is knocked down to a 90 degree angle or it is being inverted then it’s called turtled. Either way make sure your vessel is appropriate for the seas conditions you are about to embark on. Capsizing can be from overloading your vessel, not having the weight distributed evenly or getting swamped by a wave. If a capsized vessel has enough flotation to prevent sinking, it may recover on its own if the stability is such that it is not stable inverted. Vessels of this design are called self-righting. Should your boat capsize take a head count make sure every one that was on board is with you and stay with the vessel to help arrives.

PERSON OVERBOARD Falling overboard can happen when you least expect it. If you see someone fall overboard from your vessel, don’t follow suite to help them, instead throw the person a suitable object that will help them to keep a-float even a life jacket as they may be able to get it on depending on the conditions of the sea. GROUNDING Grounding can cause material damage to the vessel’s hull, the motor, persons on board and the environment surrounding the vessel. To avoid this from happening know your surroundings, know how to navigate using the beacons and learn how to read the water depths from your sounder.

WEARING POLARISED SUNGLASSES WILL HELP YOU TO SEE THROUGH THE WATER AND THE SHALLOW AREAS BELOW YOUR VESSEL!!!!

KEEP A MARINE FIRST AID KIT ON BOARD YOUR VESSEL SO YOU CAN TREAT THE UNEXPECTED ACCIDENTS THAT MAY HAPPEN WHILST BOATING!!!!

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Nautical Terms & Their Meanings Abeam Aft Amidships Astern Bar

Beam Beaufort Scale Bilge Bow Buoy Chart Datum Chine Current Displacement Hull

Draft Ebb Epirb Fairway Flood Tide Fathom Following Sea Freeboard Ground Tackle Gunwale Heading Headway Helm Hull Hypothermia Inboard Isobar Keel Latitude

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At right angles to the fore and aft line of the boat, but not on the boat. The stern of the boat. The centre of the boat. Behind the boat. Shallow area formed by sand, mud or gravel near the mouth of a river or at the approach to a harbour. (Can be a very dangerous area and needs to be treated with caution). The greatest width of the boat. A scale used in reference to measurement of wind force. The interior of the hull below the floor boards. The forward part of the boat. An anchored float used for marking a position on the water. Reference water level for soundings and drying heights on a chart and for tides. The intersection of the bottom and sides of a flat or Vbottomed boat. The horizontal movement of water. A type of hull that ploughs through the water, displacing a weight of water equal to its own weight, even when more power is added. The depth of the boat below the waterline. A receding tidal flow. Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon. A Navigable Channel. An incoming tidal flow. Six Feet. An overtaking sea travelling in the same direction as the boat. The minimum vertical distance from the surface of the water to the gunwale. A collective term for the anchor and its associated gear. The upper edge of a boat’s sides. The direction in which a ship’s bow points at any given time. The forward motion of a boat: opposite of sternway. The Wheel or Tiller controlling the rudder. The main body of a ship. A condition in which a person’s body temperature is dangerously low due to exposure to severe cold. More toward the centre of a ship: inside: a motor fitted inside a boat. Line on a weather map joining places of equal air pressure. The centre line of a boat running fore and aft: the backbone of the ship. The distance North or South of the equator measured in degrees. 90

91 Leads Lee Leeward Leeway Longitude Making Way Mooring Neap Tide PFD Planing Port Side Rode Rudder Scope

Spring Tide Starboard Side Stern Tidal Range Tiller Transom Trim Underway Wake (wash) Waterline Windward

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Marks which when in line indicate the centre of a navigable channel. The side sheltered from the wind. The direction away from the wind; opposite of windward. The sideways movement of the boat caused by wind. The distance in degrees east or west of the meridian at Greenwich Ship under way and moving through the water. An arrangement for securing a boat to a mooring buoy or a pier. Tide when there is the smallest rise and fall of water levels. Personal Floatation Device. (Life Jacket) A boat is said to be planing when it is essentially moving over the top of the water rather than through it. The left side of the boat looking forward. The anchor line and or chain. A vertical plate or board for steering a boat. Technically, the ratio of length of anchor rode in use to the vertical distance from the bow of the boat to the bottom of the water. Tide when there is the largest rise and fall of water levels. The right side of the boat when looking forward. The after part of the boat. (back of the boat) The difference in height of water between high and low tides. A bar or handle for turning a boatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rudder or an outboard motor. The stern cross-section of a square-sterned boat. Fore and aft balance of a boat. Ship not moored, at anchor, or aground. Moving waves, track or path that a boat leaves behind it, when moving across the waters. A line painted on a hull which shows the point to which a boat sinks when it is properly trimmed. Toward the direction from which the wind is coming.