Trend Report
Spring/Summer 2009 All the trends that matter this season.
52
Clockwise from right: Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver of Lanvin; Naomi Campbell at Dolce & Gabbana; Dior Homme models; Ben Hill at Dolce & Gabbana; model at Lanvin.
The indispensable answer to any sartorial conundrum, the blazer adds gravitas to an ensemble when needed, yet creates levity where necessary.
Yohji Yamamoto
Ermenegildo Zegna
Raf Simons
Jil Sander
Dries Van Noten
HermĂˆs
The Blazer
Knit Perfect
Paul Smith
Burberry Prorsum
Bottega Veneta
Louis vuitton
Clingy and stretchy, the new knits look sexy on the slight of frame, yet perfectly frame muscled silhouettes. Neat!
53
Trend Report
Louis Vuitton
Spring/Summer ’09
Bag men
Lanvin
54
PAul Smith
Prada
Yves Saint Laurent
Raf Simons
yohji Yamamoto
Out-cool the rest at the boardroom, or stroll casually on the boardwalk with the new baggy silhouette. It’s a shape that is eminently adaptable.
The micro
Dries Van Noten
Topman
Etro
Small is beautiful.
The Crop
Dior Homme
Is it the return of the blouson or the Thom Browne effect? Whatever it is, short and cropped dangerously near the waistline is key this season. Not great on short bodies but would you wear it any way else?
The waistcoat
Neil Barrett
Prada
Hugo
Once an essential part of a formal three-piece, the waistcoat is now effectively a versatile number worn with or without a jacket.
55
etro
lanvin
Lanvin
HUgo
Bottega Veneta
Lanvin
Blue is the new black. A hardy, perennial colour, this season’s blue runs the spectrum from Yves Klein’s signature shade to a distinctly Smurfy tone — take your pick.
Jil Sander
Blue Lagoon
suits You fine 56
Forget the uptight formal nature of the Eighties power suit. The user-friendly suits for modern dandies are soft but structured, athletic but not aggressively slim.
Junya Watanabe Michael Bastian
Trend Report
Spring/Summer ’09
The Denim
Topman
Prada
Neil Diamonds’ Forever in Blue Jeans is the perfect anthem that sums up the timeless sartorial elegance of this fabric.
57
Maison MArtin MArgiela
Gucci
The Man In The White Suit starring Alec Guinness and American Gonzo journo Tom Wolfe’s trademark blanc ensemble have carved out a special place in menswear this season. A stark, stand-out, stylish classic, the white suit is the first, middle and last word in sophistication.
Louis Vuitton
Hugo
Alfred Dunhill
Yves Saint Laurent
Trend Report
Spring/Summer ’09
The great white
58
“Why do I have to be Mr Pink?” screamed Steve Buscemi’s character in Reservoir Dogs. Why? Because from screaming fuchsia to a shade of cooked salmon, real men do wear pink. The perfect accessory? The Financial Times.
Dior Homme
Givenchy
Jil Sander
Topman
louis Vuitton
Mister Pink
Lanvin
In The Nude
Yohji Yamamoto
Dries Van Noten
A non-colour comes into its own. Like a clean canvas, nude is quiet and understated. Bright like a freshly-scrubbed face, it almost feels optimistic. An instant classic to add to the canon.
59
Emporio Armani
Bottega Veneta
ck Calvin Klein
Dolce & Gabbana
Pyjama Party
For all aspiring playboys of the Western (and Eastern) world, slouch pyjamas are just the sartorial outfit to use to get ahead. Somnambulism with a sense of style? Thank you, Hugh!
Junya Watanabe
No longer the preserve of Boy Scouts and geography teachers, shorts are the surprise hit of the season. Conservatively skimming the calves or skimpily riding above the thighs, a pair brings out the boy in every man.
Hugo
short Cut
Trend Report
Spring/Summer ’09
Burberry Prorsum
dries Van Noten
Hugo
Louis Vuitton
PRada
60
Yves Saint laurent
Functional, yet far from dull, the outer coat has many more reasons for existing than merely keeping you dry inspite of monsoon squalls and acid rain. Drape it on or keep it belted, it’s time to channel your inner Bogie in Casablanca.
Marni
Outer layer
Sheer Thing
Translucence and light-as-air fabrics take centrestage in menswear. Soft, subtle and genderblurring, they soften the hard edge of traditional masculine tailoring. Not for the flabby, so shape up or ship out!
Givenchy
Giorgio Armani
HermÈs
Lanvin
Comme Des GarÇons
Go East Etro
From skirts and the mlutch – the male clutch, guys – to the newly-exposed decolletage, menswear this season approaches the feminine from a very masculine perspective.
Prada
Masculin, FÉminin
Japanese obis, Indian dhotis. East is best as fashion designers indulged in a cultural exchange by taking Oriental inspiration. 61