RINGS UNIQUE GUIDE TO MAKING A CAST RING
There are many techniques used to craft the unique rings on this site including patterned metal working, fabrication and die-striking, but the most common is lost wax casting. This technique is centuries-old but with modern changes and improvements in technique and equipment, rings of infinite design, beauty and durability are now produced. According to research documents, lost wax casting may have been begun as long ago as 400-500BCE in Rome and Greece. Many statues or parts of statues were made using the lost wax process. There is evidence of this technique in many ancient cultures from Italy to Asia, Egypt, Africa, India, South America‌virtually worldwide. Today, lost wax casting is taught in art programs at all levels of education. It is likely that many visitors to the www.ringsunique.com site have tried the process at least once, thus understanding the basics of the technique. But to be masterful and proficient at the process, years of experience and specialized
equipment are needed for consistently superior results. HERE ARE THE BASIC STEPS Step 1 It all begins with a vision and idea for a ring. The vision then becomes a design that is usually sketched on paper and modified frequently as details, contours and dimensions begin to take shape.
Step 2 This is the process of actually making a wax model. A medium hard wax is carved with special tools to create the design. This is the first time that the artist’s vision and design begins to take shape
on a three dimensional scale.
Step 3 The wax model is then used to create the actual mold for casting the molten gold, platinum or palladium. Here we have a bridal set, both engagement ring with bezel and wedding ring, the Wind and
Wave design, mounted in the “investing” base.
Making the mold is the process of “investing” where the model is placed firmly in base, then a flask cylinder is placed on top to pour the investment material over the model. Investment is a type of fine plaster specifically used by jewelers. During this process, all air pockets or bubbles in the cylinder must be removed by vacuum pressure.
A mold can be made for a single ring or a series of rings as on this “tree� to the right.
The investment mold will become the exact negative of the carved wax design.
Step 3 The cylinder of investment and the wax model is heated in a kiln to burnout the wax.
The cylinder of investment is allowed to cool and dry completely.
Step 4 The precious metal is sourced in a fine grain called a casting grain. To the right is 14k white gold, about to be melted in a crucible at the melting point of gold, about 2000 degrees. Rings Unique artisans
are fastidious about sourcing eco-safe metals for their rings. See this link to learn about “Harmony
Metals� The investment is placed cup upward so that the molten precious metal can be poured from the crucible into the mold. Once again, air bubbles are removed by applying positive air pressure, centrifugal force or vacuum force. The jeweler’s goal is to reduce porosity or any air pockets that will minimize the final ring
result.
Step 5 Once the final ring(s) is produced, the laborious tasks of sanding, polishing, and detailing every aspect of the ring takes place. This may require hours of hand polishing depending on the design and
precious material with some metals requiring much more attention such as palladium or platinum.
Step 6 The final tasks of setting stones, either tiny stones for the band itself or a larger center stone,
takes place.
No stone is ever glued into a ring but handset with a tiny bevel inside the setting holding the girdle of the stone securely. A tiny dollop of gold is brought over an edge of a tiny stone to make sure it is snug for a lifetime of wear and tear.
A larger center stone can be set with a full circular bezel all around the stone, a semi-bezel as shown here, prongs of many shapes and designs, a straight or curved channel and many other options.
Step 7 The last steps are final polishing and steam cleaning to produce a sparkling perfect ring.
Photos courtesy of Krista and Eric McCafferty, owners and designer jewelers of Studio 311, the rings
proudly exhibited in Rings Unique Artistic Collection.