Travel: The Arizona Biltmore bears the hallmarks of Frank Lloyd Wright, who consulted on its design January 11, 2020 By: Jacqueline Fitzgerald If famed architect Frank Lloyd Wright had lived in our time, he’d be the ideal candidate for a reality TV show — his temperament and often-turbulent personal life meant scandals stuck to him like shingles on a roof. Many of his famous involvements have a bit of a back story. A case in point: the Arizona Biltmore hotel and resort in Phoenix, now in its 91st year. Just a short jaunt from Los Angeles, the regal and rambling 39-acre property, full of nooks and crannies and cozy perches, is a captivating historic destination and there’s plenty to do on-site to keep you happily occupied for a relaxing long weekend. The Biltmore strongly exudes a Frank Lloyd Wright vibe and the hotel, now run by Waldorf Astoria/Hilton, plays up the influence of America’s most famous architect — noting on its website that “the Arizona Biltmore is in many ways more ‘Wrightian’ than when it was built.” Credited as the consulting architect, Wright collaborated with a former student, Albert Chase McArthur, to build the hotel. But they parted ways after a disagreement over the vaunted Biltmore blocks, which were inspired by the trunk of a palm tree and made from desert sand on-site in 34 geometric patterns. Wright had used similar blocks to construct private homes in Los Angeles. The Biltmore opened in 1929 to much acclaim. Just a year later, William Wrigley, Jr. of Chicago became the Biltmore’s sole owner; he enjoyed inviting guests for extended stays and hosting formal dinners in the Aztec Room. Wrigley also decided to build the Catalina Pool, the hotel’s first swimming pool, which is beautifully embellished with Art Deco mosaic tiles from Catalina Island, which he also owned. It wasn’t long before the Biltmore’s secluded allure became popular with Hollywood luminaries. Ronald and Nancy Reagan honeymooned there. It was a favorite get-away for Carole Lombard and Clark Gable as well as Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and other Rat Pack members. Marilyn Monroe reportedly loved to lounge at the Catalina Pool. Irving Berlin wrote several songs poolside, including “White Christmas.” Many U.S. presidents and their wives stayed at the Biltmore. In 1973, after the Wrigley family sold the hotel to Talley Industries, a severe fire damaged the property. Taliesin Associated Architects, which Wright founded at Taliesin West in nearby Scottsdale, renovated the resort. Today, Taliesin West is home to the Frank Lloyd
Wright Foundation and the School of Architecture at Taliesin. Subsequent years saw expansions for the hotel (new wings added, for example) remodeling and renovations. Several signature Wright elements of 2020’s Arizona Biltmore were not original to the hotel. Added to the Biltmore’s main lobby in 1973 was the striking stained glass piece, “Saguaro Forms & Cactus Flowers,” which was rendered from Wright’s original drawings and gifted by his widow. He designed the sprites statues in 1914 for Chicago’s Midway Gardens and they were sculpted by Alfonso Iannelli. The statues were thought to be lost when the gardens were demolished but in 1945 they turned up in Wisconsin. A mold was made of one, from which six new sprites were cast and given to the Biltmore in 1985. If you’re intrigued by these details, be sure to take one of the hotel’s history tours. The Friday evening happy-hour tour starts with a glass of champagne and ends with a Tequila Sunrise. The famous cocktail (tequila, crème de cassis, soda and fresh lime juice) was invented by longtime bartender Gene Sulit. Tours are also held on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays at 10 a.m. Sans adult beverages, it is complimentary for resort guests. But there is more than history and a stellar legacy to recommend the place. Guests have access to several swimming pools, tennis courts, golf courses, a fitness center and resort spa/full-service salon. The Paradise pool and the spa/salon are being renovated and are expected to be open for use later this year. (For now, the hotel offers services, such as massages, in temporary quarters.) Additionally, the website can point you to “curated experiences,” such as excursions, family attractions, shopping, hiking and cultural landmarks. The guided hike to the nearby Piestewa Peak is definitely memorable. The Phoenix Art Museum, which opened in 1959 in a building designed by Alden B. Dow, a student of Frank Lloyd Wright, is a well worth a visit. “Legends of Speed,” an exhibition of racing cars, runs through March 15. (The site also lists several package offers — for example, Destination Debonair, was inspired by the men of the Rat Pack.) However you choose to spend your day, you’ll want to visit one of the main building’s gathering areas in the evening. Little hives of activity buzz throughout the lofty space. Kids are drawn to the oversize birdcage and its occupants. On Friday and Saturday nights, the Wright Bar hosts live music; some guests meander to the bar terrace. There is steady foot traffic in and out of the restaurants. Frank & Albert’s is a casual spot that serves contemporary American cuisine; at the fancier Wright’s at the Biltmore, you might devour a prime Black Angus rib eye or opt for the five-course tasting menu. Wright’s Sunday brunch is particularly impressive — including seafood, sushi, seasonal fruits, carved meats, cheese, charcuterie, breakfast breads, salads, desserts, juices, coffee or tea. À la carte entrées, such as pork belly Florentine Benedict, are prepared to order. The unhurried, attentive service will help you navigate the many choices. Another highlight is the sumptuous high tea served in the lobby. The Biltmore’s seatings (11 a.m. to 2 p.m.) are orchestrated by tea sommelier Kevin Doyle, who will guide you through the multi-course feast with an uncommon depth of knowledge, providing soft-
spoken answers to your questions and graciously pouring off-menu samples for you to try. The tea menu riffs on tradition with flourishes of whimsy, such as a petite pastry puff topped with minced lobster and shrimp and an elderflower, champagne and berry jelly. On my visit, we were celebrating a birthday and the hotel staff put forth every effort to honor the occasion and make it extra special.