Arizona Vacations Magazine
Tyger Gilbert
Publisher
PUBLISHER’S NOTES
An iridescent bug enjoying the yellow flowers of a candy barrel cactus.
All photos in this issue are by Tyger Gilbert unless otherwise noted. Photographers and writers: We invite you to upload images and stories on the magazine’s website for potential inclusion in future issues. Guests in one of the swimming pools at the Pointe Hilton Squaw Peak Resort, one of three hotels in Phoenix with an exotic private water park.
I moved to Arizona 45 years ago, right after dirt was invented in the desert. Over the last decade as a travel and nature photographer, I have taken thousands of digital images here. So, I decided to use them to create a great vacation magazine with these goals: • Show you incredibly beautiful places in Arizona to visit where you can not only see spectacular scenery but also view fascinating animals and plants unique to this part of the world. We will include photos and stories of a number of these in each issue and hope you say, “Wow! I want to go there!” • Provide “been there, done that, took photos of it, and recommend it highly” information you can use and believe, rather than just create a directory of business listings. • Encourage you to be active and go outdoors camping and hiking to be in better shape, lose weight, and improve your health so you can enjoy life more every day. • Inspire everyone to appreciate and respect Nature and take care of the Environment. Everything alive needs it clean just to exist.
Front Cover Photo: Superstition Mountain east of Phoenix at sunset. 2
Whether you are planning a fun and exciting vacation, or only want to enjoy pretty photographs of Arizona, please tell everyone you know about our magazine and suggest they get their own free digital subscription online. We will appreciate any help and support you can give us.
Phoenix 2014
No. 1 – Phoenix 2014
Arizona Vacations Magazine 9635 N. 7th St. #26832 Phoenix, AZ 85068 602-997-0088 (In Metro Phoenix)
888-678-9437 (Toll Free)
ArizonaVacationsMagazine.com
Downtown Phoenix from the 7th Street overpass on Interstate 10.
SEE MORE ONLINE
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Visit our website to view additional beautiful color photos of Arizona. Get details on fun and economical weekend trips, special offers, and discounts for our subscribers. Find links to unique lodging, tours, and restaurants you won’t want to miss. Our collection of photography tips, secret locations, slide shows and more will help ensure your Arizona vacation is one you will enjoy and always remember!
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See our page on Facebook: Facebook.com/AZVacations
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Follow us on Facebook and get to see photos and stories selected especially for our online friends. Publisher
Tyger Gilbert
Publisher@AZVacMag.com Associate Editor
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Bob Forrest
AssociateEditor@AZVacMag.com Advertising Sales AdSales@AZVacMag.com Arizona Vacations Magazine™ (Print) ISSN 2374-5576 (Online) ISSN 2374-5584 is published 10 times a year by Tyger Gilbert. Subscription price is $48 per year within the USA, or $6.95 for single copies. Prices in US Dollars. Digital Edition subscriptions are FREE. Subscriptions and single copies may be purchased on our website: www.ArizonaVacationsMagazine.com For change of address, email: Subscriptions@AZVac.Mag.com, or write to Subscriptions, Box 26832, Phoenix, AZ 85068. First Class postage paid at Phoenix, AZ. Foreign delivery extra. Copyright © 2014 by Tyger Gilbert. All rights are reserved worldwide. No part of this publication may be reproduced or stored by any method without prior written permission. PRINTED AND PRODUCED IN THE USA
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CONTENTS COVER FEATURE:
Superstition Wilderness.................................4 Siphon Draw Trail......................................6 Hieroglyphic Trail....................................11 The Wave Cave........................................12 Peralta Canyon........................................13 Massacre Grounds...................................17 Hackberry Spring....................................18 Going Out in the Desert...............................19 Camping in Lost Dutchman State Park........20 Goldfield Ghost Town...................................22 Dolly Steamboat on Canyon Lake................24 Cacti You Might Encounter in Phoenix..........26 Desert Flowers.............................................28 McCormick-Stillman Railroad Park...............29 The Lakes....................................................32 Mystery Castle..............................................38 Desert Botanical Garden..............................40 Crown King: Scenic One-Day Trip................44 Wild in the Desert.........................................48 Photo Tips: Shooting Arizona Sunsets.........52 Buy a printed copy of this magazine on our website. Articles may contain links to the website of this magazine or other websites which have more information on the topic.
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Boundary sign at edge of Superstition Wilderness on Siphon Draw Trail.
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View of Superstition Mountain from the Siphon Draw Trail west of the Superstition Wilderness.
The Superstition Wilderness is an area of more than 160,000 acres of pristine desert just east of metro Phoenix, located north of US-60 between Mesa and Gold Canyon. Its hallmark is the majestic Superstition Mountain, and the dozens of trails sprinkled across this range beckon hikers, bikers, and horseback riders to Red-headed Turkey Vulture.
explore its treasures. At about a 30-minute drive from anywhere in the Valley, the Superstitions offer residents and visitors alike the opportunity to spend a day, a weekend, or longer communing intimately with Nature. A trip to the Superstitions means having the opportunity to explore all the Sonoran Desert has to offer. A multitude of lizards, snakes, and other wildlife call the desert floor home, and ornithologists will spot a wide array of birds circling above. The plant life is just as vibrant, with cactuses and wildflowers as far as the eye can see. In fact, after the wet seasons of late summer and winter, you’re likely to be welcomed by a blanket of colors. This is when the desert really comes alive. One of the most exciting things
about the Superstitions is the vast array of scenic views and natural features like massive boulders, springs, and washes it holds. And as you climb higher, you may be surprised at the gorgeous views across the entire Valley of the Sun opening up before you. But what might be the best thing of all is that cell phones don’t seem to work here. Wherever your travels take you in this range, you’re likely to be out of your coverage area. That allows you to let go of your everyday worries and immerse yourself in the beauty around you. Of course, for safety’s sake, it’s a good idea to pack walkie-talkies so you can still communicate with others if you get separated. Grab your water, sunscreen, and camera. You’re in for a treat! 5
Arizona Vacations Magazine
Hikers on Siphon Draw Trail with Flatiron Peak at top.
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SIPHON DRAW TRAIL With an elevation change of more than 2,400 feet, leading from the base of Superstition Mountain to the top of Flatiron Peak, the Siphon Draw Trail offers the perfect mix of challenge and beauty. In fact, for many Phoenix-area residents, this is the go-to hike when they welcome visitors to town who are looking for a bit of challenge during their stay. Why? The hike is gorgeous from every angle, and it can be tailored to accommodate most levels of experience, from beginner hikers to experienced climbers, based on how far up the trail they choose to go. Siphon Draw is an out-and-back trek, so hikers who take it on are only limited by their desire to test their muscles – and the amount of water and snacks in their packs. The trail is easily accessible from Lost Dutchman State Park, or by following Jacobs Crosscut Trail from its trailhead on First Water Road just a little east of there. The hike starts off simply with a meandering stroll through the meadows below Superstition Mountain itself. If you’re lucky enough to visit this area in spring following a wet winter, you’ll be rewarded by a vast blanket of colorful wildflowers. Mexican Poppies, Mojave Lupines, Penstemons, and Desert Marigolds light up the
Red Penstemon flowers on Siphon Draw Trail.
ground in vibrancy, adding not only color but an abundance of butterflies, bees, and birds that feed on the flowers’ nectar. Keep your eyes open for red-tailed hawks, turkey vultures, cactus wrens, phainopepla, and Gila woodpeckers. Perhaps you’ll even be delighted by a hummingbird or two.
View of Four Peaks under a light snow from the Siphon Draw Trail in late March.
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Although this hike presents nearly half a mile vertical climb, the length of three miles to the peak makes it not feel as abrupt. You’ll have plenty of time to take pictures, explore the flowers and wildlife, and chat with your companions en route up to the summit. There are also ample places to rest before tackling the final ascent of 500 feet to the top of Flatiron. After a rainy day, small washes run through the bowl of flat rocks called The Basin, offering hikers
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a cool and pretty place to sit, snack, and relax before gathering more energy for the final climb. It’s also a good place for just turning around and going back if you have dogs or kids with you, as this is where it starts to get really tough and rugged. And climb is an apt description for the way up to Flatiron. Some hikers pack gloves to pull themselves up the sides of Flatiron, an igneous massif dating back to when the region was dotted with volcanoes. Looking at Flatiron, astute Disney film fans may see the striking resemblance between this peak and the one made famous in The
Lion King: Pride Rock. As you make your way to the top, you may well feel as proud as Simba did when he took his rewarding walk out to the end following his defeat of Scar. You’ll certainly be able to see for miles as you survey not only the Superstitions but the Phoenix Valley beyond. Although this out-and-back trail is just six miles in length, even accomplished hikers begin early and plan to spend half a day or more on the trail. Often compared with the shorter and steeper trails of Camelback Mountain, Siphon Draw Trail offers an even more stringent workout because of the
View of Flatiron Peak
(rounded dome in center)
on Siphon Draw Trail.
longer windup leading to the final climb. Of course, after you’ve expended your energy to get to the top, you’ll have to wend your way back down and return to the trailhead the way you came. Whether you plan to just walk out for an hour on the Siphon Draw Trail before turning back, or your
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Ash Throated Fly Catcher on bush.
Hikers descending from the Basin on Siphon Draw Trail. Looking out over Apache Junction in the valley below Siphon Draw.
goal is to summit Flatiron, be sure to take plenty of water on this hike. Technically, although the Superstition Mountain range is part of Tonto National Forest, it is still in the heart of the Sonoran Desert, and the forest here is less about towering pines and more about knee-high cactuses and shrubs. In fact, the full six miles is exposed with no shade other than a few hidden crevices and corners among the rocks at the base of Flatiron. It follows, then, that the best times to venture to the Siphon Trail are the cooler months of October through May. If you are prepared to tackle this trail and experience one of the best hikes in the Superstition Wilderness, pack smart. Take more water than you think you’ll need, sunscreen, a hat, snacks and possibly a lunch, and gloves for the climb. Grab a few friends and your camera to share the journey because this is one you’ll remember for a long time. Siphon Draw Trail is a gorgeous introduction to some of the best hiking the Valley of the Sun has to offer. Are you ready to go? Desert Marigold by the trail.
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Hieroglyphics Trail Do you love history? We’re talking about hundreds of years of history, back to the time of the original settlers of the Southwest: the Native Americans. It is their artwork you will enjoy when you venture out on this short, educational hike along Hieroglyphics Trail in the Superstition Wilderness. At just three miles out and back, this trail is not one most hikers tackle for fitness. Instead, it’s all about the payoff at the end: the ancient art. You get to see hieroglyphs on the rocks there. Hieroglyphs, more accurately called petroglyphs, are pictures or symbols engraved into rocks which represent words, sounds, or ideas. This essentially was the written language of the native peoples in Arizona and other early cultures. You’ll have your opportunity to decipher the code of the ancients when you hike Hieroglyphics Trail in the Superstitions. At the end of this relatively easy trail, a number of interesting petroglyphs on the boulders there await your inspection.
Hieroglyphs, or petroglyphs, at the end of the trail.
In addition to the carvings in the rocks, if you visit here after a rain, you can see a small waterfall. And if you look carefully, a hidden cave offers a shady place to enjoy a snack before turning back.
A tall Saguaro cactus by the trail up Hieroglyphic Canyon to Hieroglyphic Springs.
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Three Sisters peak in southern Superstition Wilderness.
The Wave Cave On the way to Peralta Canyon, a popular location in the Superstition Wilderness, lies a lesser known trail named the Wave Cave, This hike is off the beaten path – literally. A little more challenging to find, with a bit more work to traverse, the reward at the end makes it all worthwhile. Yes, as its name would suggest, at the top of this hike you’ll find a wave. But it’s not a wave of water. This is a rock wave, formed to look like a huge breaker by years of erosion. To get to the cave requires some bush whacking in spots, as well as occasionally guessing which direction the trail goes. Cairns mark the way, but which cairn to follow? Luckily, the wave can be spotted from a good distance, so keeping it in sight and walking in that general direction will get you there eventually. You should wear long pants to 12
wade through the brambles, and be ready for some scrambling at the end to ascend the final steps to the Wave Cave itself. Once there, though, you’ll be ready to hang ten and survey the gorgeous views.
Location of the Wave Cave.
Our publisher surfing in the Wave Cave. Photo by Tammy Bedard.
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Purple Blue Dick flowers by trail.
Peralta Canyon You might cause a real argument with different people by pitting the Siphon Draw Trail against the Peralta Canyon Trail for the most amazing hike in the Superstition Wilderness. Each certainly offers its own charms, and each provides both a challenge and an immense payoff. We won’t take sides here, but just know that if you plan to experience one, you may as well
Yellow Prickly Pear cactus flowers by trail in Peralta Canyon.
put the other on your agenda as well. Then you’ll be free to choose
your own personal favorite from a more direct experience.
Saguaro cactuses line the hillside at the entrance to Peralta Canyon in the southern Superstition Wilderness.
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A seven-mile dirt road off US 60 is the only route in and out, and although it is easily navigated even in a lower profile passenger car, it can take nearly half an hour to travel. But take heart; the majestic views start the moment the pavement slips away. Each mile is more impressive than the next as
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you drive with dust blowing and tunes playing on the radio. The Superstitions open up to those who enter, and they provide stunning visual rewards, to be sure.
just this once, take the trail more traveled. You’ll be very glad you did. There is a $4 fee per vehicle per day to park, and groups are limited to just 15 people.
Plenty of parking, with an overflow lot, is available at the trailhead, which serves not only Peralta but also Bluff Springs, Cave Trail, and Dutchman’s Trail. Peralta is by far the most popular, and although we adore Robert Frost, ignore his timeless advice and,
The trail starts at the mouth of Peralta Canyon and follows it up to Fremont Saddle. It goes along a seasonally flowing creek with oak and mesquite providing some shade, then steeply up for a total of about 1400 feet. The light rock along here is stratified welded tuff, which is a composite of hot
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ash and cinders that solidified. The dark hoodoos above you are volcanic magma columns that were underground, then exposed by wind and rain erosion. Most people stop for snacks and to enjoy the stunning views of Weavers Needle at Fremont Saddle, then turn around and go back. If you choose to make a full day of it, you can follow the entire Peralta Trail down into Upper Boulder Canyon to the north, which extends the hike
Weavers Needle and Upper Boulder Canyon to the north viewed from Fremont Saddle on the Peralta Trail.
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Giant hoodoos stand above the trail on a hill in Peralta Canyon on the south side of Superstition Wilderness.
to nearly 12.5 miles out and back, tacking on an additional 7.5 miles and also doubling the elevation A green Gila Manroot gourd, or Desert Cucumber.
gain. If you feel particularly adventurous, there is reportedly a side trip off the northern part of the trail that climbs up Weavers Needle to the summit and doesn’t require any technical climbing skills. We haven’t attempted it to confirm that though. Regardless how far you choose to venture out on the Peralta Trail, your hike will be scenic and will take you through a particularly beautiful desert canyon environment, where you’ll wind around cactuses and climb over rocks and boulders. Along your journey, you’re likely to see a variety of lizards, snakes, and birds, as well as many types of wildflowers. Rated moderate by most hiking guides, this trail definitely qualifies as a workout. However, if breaking a sweat isn’t your primary goal, you’ll find ample places to stop under shade to rest and enjoy the view, to explore some small caves, or to dip your feet in pools of water after a rare afternoon rain. See Superstition Wilderness Trails for maps of this trail and others on the magazine’s website.
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Teddy Bear Cholla, a Saguaro and Palo Verdes along the trail to Massacre Grounds in the Superstition Wilderness.
Massacre Grounds This easy trail got its name from a tragic event that took place in 1848 when Apaches ambushed and killed a group of Mexican gold miners. The trail starts at the Crosscut trailhead just past Lost Dutchman State Park and goes southeast into the hills for about a 5.7-mile round-trip hike. The real attraction here is a trek through the desert after a few days of rain bring out the wildflowers and produce a waterfall where the massacre took place. Along the way, you get great views of Four Peaks, the Superstition ridgeline, and the Goldfield Mountains. In spring, you will see a riot of color with orange Globemallows, gold
Arizona Poppies, blue Lupines and yellow Brittlebush flowers, just to name a few.
Male Phainopepla, a silky flycatcher.
From the trailhead, go southeast and at a break in the barbed-wire fence, cross into the Superstition Wilderness and then go south. Be sure to watch for cairns that mark the trail toward the end. At a junction, go left for an overlook or right to get to the waterfall. There are many birds in the area, but one to watch for in particular is the Phainopepla, often referred to as “the black Cardinal.” Males are shiny black, females are grey, and they have red eyes and wispy crests on top of their heads. They are called “silky flycatchers” but eat mistletoe berries, which they are uniquely able to digest. 17
Arizona Vacations Magazine
Trail to Hackberry Spring from Garden Valley in the Superstition Wilderness.
Hackberry Spring This is one of the prettiest loop trails in the Superstitions, and it has a little of everything: cactuses, Indian ruins, a lush green oasis, and a windmill and horse corral of an abandoned cattle ranch.
Gila Woodpecker on a saguaro. Red Spotted Toad on rock in water at Hackberry Spring.
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Start at the First Water Trailhead off Hwy. 88. Take First Water to Second Water trail and go east. Past the intersection with Black Mesa trail you will find an Indian ruin with small shards of pottery.
Desert Hackberry fruit is edible.
Go north through Garden Valley, a grassy plateau with Teddy Bear and Chainfruit Cholla cactuses. Then you descend into a canyon where Cottonwood, Acacia, and Palo Verde trees grow by Hackberry Creek. The spring comes out of a tall rock cliff, giving a nice, shady area to rest. This also is a great place to camp for backpackers. Follow the creek south for a mile and veer west past the old ranch to return. It’s a good trip for kids and dogs, too, at 5.25 miles total.
It is usually lush and green along Hackberry Creek near the spring.
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Water bladders worn on the back are popular.
Jogging shirtless is comfortable but not recommended.
Going Out in the Desert The heat in the desert can be deadly, particularly in summer. Here are a few quick tips to make your desert hike a safe and enjoyable experience. Most important is taking water with you everywhere. Take more than you think you will need, because you can’t drink it if you don’t have it. Wear hiking boots, not flip-flops, sandals, or sneakers. Boots will give better A small backpack is good on hikes.
traction and protect your feet better, and they don’t have to be expensive. Comfort and fit are important, so buy a size big enough to wear heavy cotton socks with them. Use a day backpack to take first aid supplies, snacks, your cell phone, a map and lots of water. Hike with someone. Tell others where you are going and when you will return. Some find a hiking pole useful.
Hiking boots purchased on sale for $16.96 (reg. $44.99) at Big 5 Sporting Goods.
Take your camera and extra water.
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Campsites in the park have easy paved access and can accommodate most types of recreational vehicles.
Lost Dutchman State Park 6109 N. Apache Trail Apache Junction, AZ 85119 480-982-4485 Reservations: 520-586-2283
AZStateParks.com/Parks/loDU/
Imagine coming out of your RV, camper or tent in the morning and being greeted by an incredible view of the magnificent Superstition Mountain. That’s what awaits you at the campground in Lost Dutchman State Park. Snuggled up against the Tonto National Forest and the Superstition Wilderness, the park is far enough away from city lights to offer a great view of the stars at night, yet services like gas and groceries are only 5 miles away in Apache Junction.
68 campsites have electricity and water hookups. Tents are as welcome as RVs, campers, and trailers.
Exciting recreational opportunities await you with numerous guided hikes and programs led by park rangers or naturalists, hiking and nature trails, a new mountain biking trail, and picnic facilities. The campground offers water, electricity, showers, restrooms, a dump station, and group use areas. Reservations can be made 24/7 online, or by phone from 8 am to 5 pm MST, 7 days a week. 21
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No one has to dodge traffic when strolling down Main Street in the Goldfield Ghost Town. Floozies give tours at Lu Lu’s Bordello, but these ladies are just tourists.
Goldfield Ghost Town 4650 N. Mammoth Mine Rd Apache Junction, AZ 85119 480-983-0333
GoldfieldGhostTown.com
Goldfield Ghost Town essentially is a theme park that provides you with a look at an historic period of frontier Arizona. Built on the site of the actual old gold mining camp of Goldfield, it has many authentically restored buildings and things to do. The original town of Goldfield had three saloons, a boarding house, general store, blacksmith shop, meat market, and a schoolhouse. 22
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The primary economy of the town revolved around the Mammoth Gold Mine, but when the gold vein ran out and the mine closed, the town died a slow painful death. Though the mine was reopened in 1910, it again failed and by 1926 the town was deserted again. In 1984, Robert F. Schoose bought the land and started constructing a now popular tourist attraction. Today you can walk the streets and explore many interesting and educational shops and services. You can tour the Mammoth Mine, ride the only narrow gauge train in Arizona, and watch an old west gun fight reenacted in the street. The Mammoth Steakhouse and Saloon offers food from burgers and sandwiches to mouth-watering steaks, and drinks ranging from sarsaparilla to cold brews and liquors at the bar. Decorated with vintage western artifacts and deer and buffalo heads, they even have a carefully restored stagecoach that is a remnant of Tombstone. Weekends they have live western singers and entertainment.
The Mammoth Steakhouse and Saloon has meals and live entertainment.
wild habits and lifestyles of the miners, cowboys, and women who inhabited the area in that era.
Just as intriguing are merchants who create and sell unique items in the shops there. You can find purveyors of silver and turquoise jewelry, desert plants, hot sauce and salsa, original pottery, and metal sculpture, for example.
Lu Lu’s Bordello is a recreated old time brothel where the working girls inside just tell stories of the
The Superstition Serpentarium has exhibits of live reptiles and invertebrates native to the region, including rattlesnakes, scorpions, tarantulas, centipedes, and Gila monsters. This is a great collection of creepy critters safely displayed for everyone to view and get to know more about them. You may never get to see many otherwise.
Saloon’s authentic Old West decor.
Superstition Mountain is within sight on Main Street in Goldfield.
Then you have the opportunity to pan for gold, go for a horseback ride, or take a desert jeep tour. If you get hungry, enjoy an old time ice cream parlor or a good cup of coffee. It’s a fun place!
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The Dolly Steamboat
Passengers boarding the Dolly Steamboat at dock.
P.O. Box 977 Apache Junction, AZ 85117 480-827-9144 www.DollySteamboat.com
A couple enjoying a nature tour on Canyon Lake on the Dolly Steamboat.
A cruise around Canyon Lake on the Dolly Steamboat is a fun event everyone should get to experience when they come to the Phoenix area. Our latest ride on the Dolly was on a Wednesday afternoon in the middle of August, so there weren’t as many other passengers on board as on the weekends, but all the attractions of the trip were there for us. Desert bighorn sheep appeared on the hillsides a couple of times, and a proud bald eagle sat on a rock and watched as the boat passed by below him. You should bring binoculars and a telephoto lens for your camera for best results at wildlife viewing and photography, as you likely will see many different species of birds and animals around you. The spectacular scenery on the entire trip is worth the price of a ticket. Snacks, beverages, popcorn and alcohol are available to make your trip more enjoyable.
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The mountains and cliffs of the lower Salt River Canyon provide a spectacular backdrop for a relaxing cruise.
You can choose to sit outside on the decks, or inside where it is air conditioned and comfortable at any time of year in any weather. They have one or two 1½ hour nature cruises most days, and a 2½ hour twilight dinner cruise Desert sheep on the mountaintop.
each week, plus they do catered special events like weddings. Reservations are recommended. The dock is located at the Canyon Lake marina on the Apache Trail highway, about a 1½ hour drive from downtown Phoenix.
The scenic views on this tour are an absolute delight, so bring your camera.
A Bald Eagle perched on a rock.
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Barrel cactuses have reddish, hooked needles.
Cacti You Might Encounter in Phoenix There are numerous species of cacti in Arizona, but these eight are the ones most frequently seen in the desert around Phoenix. The majestic Saguaro (suh-wahr-oh) grows up to 60 feet high and lives to 150 or 200 years. White flowers in May or June. Found only in the Sonoran Desert in Arizona and Mexico. Largest of all cacti in United States. Red fruit is edible. The majestic Saguaro cactus is seen all over the desert.
A Barrel cactus is large, cylindrical, with red needles that are hooked on the end. Red or yellow flowers.
A nice patch of Prickly Pear cactuses next to the Hackberrry Spring trail.
Prickly Pear cactus has flat connected “paddles� with tiny barbed spines called glochids which are hard to remove from skin. Fruit and paddles are edible. A branching Staghorn cactus.
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Hedgehog cactuses grow in clusters like this.
Staghorn cactus has sectioned stems that branch like the antlers of a deer. Similar to the Buckhorn cactus. Bright red, orange, or yellow flowers. Englemann’s or Strawberry Hedgehog cactus is tubular shaped and grows in clusters. Bright pink flowers. Similar Claret Cup cactus has red flowers. Chain Fruit Cholla cactus is large and tree-like. Irregular branches have barbed spines and attach easily when touched. Clusters of fruit hang in chains. Pincushion or Fishhook Mammillaria cactus is small and round. It has many straight spines and longer hooked needles. Small cylindrical red fruit. The Chain Fruit Cholla cactus almost looks like a tree. Teddy Bear Cholla also known as “jumping cactus”, as barbed-needled stems seem to The Teddy Bear Cholla. or “jumping” cactus, has barbs in its needle ends. become attached to even distant items. Yellow-green flowers.
See more information on Arizona cacti on our magazine’s website. Pincushion Mammillaria cactuses.
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Yellow Arizona Poppies. An Ocotillo in bloom on First Water Trail in the Superstition Wilderness.
Desert Flowers The Sonoran Desert is not just dry sand dunes like the Sahara. Everywhere you go in Arizona has many different species of flowers for you to enjoy on your trip.
Red Ocotillo flowers.
Desert flowers depend on water, so you will see more of them after the rainy seasons in August and January. Springtime is the best for desert wildflowers, especially when the winter has been wet.
Flowers on a Mammillaria cactus.
Red Penstemons and yellow Brittlebush flowers fill the desert in spring.
Purple Scorpionweed flowers.
Red Sierra Woolly Indian Paintbrush flower.
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A 5/12 scale working steam engine, No. 11 was built in 1957 and pulls a 10-car train with 100 passengers.
McCormick-Stillman Railroad Park
Locomotive No. 6, built in 1907 mostly to haul copper, on display at the park.
7301 E. Indian Bend Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85250 480-312-2312
TheRailroadPark.com
This place is a lot of fun for a train lover or railroad buff of any type, no matter if you like model trains, miniature trains, or the full-scale real thing. This special park has examples of each with 8 different scales of trains for you to experience and enjoy. Plan to spend at least half a day here. There is so much to see and do that you could pack a lunch, picnic in the park and stay all day. 29
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The main attraction is the exact 5/12 scale, working steam engine that pulls a 10-car train over one mile of Colorado narrow gauge track, called the Paradise & Pacific Railroad. But there is lots more. The Model Railroad Building is a big facility housing the park’s four model railroad clubs. It showcases layouts of different scale trains which are visible from all sides. You get to push buttons to activate features, so kids love this. Railroad crossing gates and the historic Roald Amundsen Pullman car.
Just as exciting is the Scottsdale Charro Carousel, built in 1950 and completely restored, it has 30 horses and 2 wheelchair chariots to ride. Tickets for this and the trains are $1 each, $10 for 12, or $10 for an all-day wristband. You pay no admission fee to enter the park itself, however. The park is educational, too, with an Historical Railroad Museum, the Roald Amundsen Pullman Car that was used by presidents in the 1940’s, a Merci Train display, and events and entertainment.
An O-gauge model steam locomotive pulling a passenger train.
Shops with souvenirs, places to get food and drinks, shady picnic ramadas, two playgrounds, plus lots of relaxing grass and trees in the park round out the attractions.
The Scottsdale Live Steamers provide miniature train rides on three tracks through the 2-acre desert arboretum.
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The Paradise and Pacific Railroad’s steam locomotive.
Three of the 34 Scottsdale Charro Carousel horses.
A group at one of the 9 picnic ramadas in the park.
The narrow gauge train goes one mile around the park.
Kids having fun riding the Scottsdale Charro Carousel.
An O-gauge layout in the model railroad building.
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An exciting ride on a jet ski is just one of the many outdoor recreation activities available at Saguaro Lake. A view of Canyon Lake from the Apache Highway looking to the east.
What started out more than 100 years ago as a plan to provide flood control, electricity, and water to agriculture and the cities in what would become the Metro Phoenix area, turned out to be a scenic, recreational paradise. A total of seven reservoirs were built by 1946 on three different Ironwood flower at Saguaro Lake.
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A view of Bartlett Reservoir in the desert mountains of Tonto National Forest northeast of Phoenix in summer.
rivers: Agua Fria, Verde, and Salt, with a combined capacity of over 3,125,000 acre-feet of water and a total of 36,750 surface acres. These seven lakes, referred to by residents as “The Lakes,� provide a range of recreation activities, including boating, fishing, sailing, water skiing, jet skiing, swimming and skin diving. They have facilities for camping and picnicking, and trails for hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding. Marinas at the lakes rent boats, jet skis,
kayaks, and house boats, All of the lakes are very pretty, but they each have different surroundings and a unique personality to them.
Theodore Roosevelt Lake, the first and largest of these reservoirs, was named for the 26th president, and was filled after Roosevelt Dam
The Canyon Lake Marina docks at sunset.
Lake Pleasant from Pipeline Trail.
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Many boats gathered at the marina on Bartlett Lake.
was completed in 1911. At the time, the dam was the world’s tallest masonry dam and the lake was the largest man-made lake in the world. Now it’s third behind Lake
Houseboat on Saguaro Lake.
Powell and Lake Mead. Formed at the confluence of the Salt River and Tonto Creek, Roosevelt lake has a length of 22 miles, more than 128 miles of shoreline, and 19,200 surface acres when full. Apache Lake is next of the four Salt River lakes. Long, and more secluded than the others, it has a resort with a restaurant, rooms overlooking the water, and an RV park for a nice relaxed escape. Canyon Lake has a marina with
A speedboat on Canyon Lake.
Picnic areas below the cliffs along the north shore of Saguaro Lake.
Boaters on shore at Bartlett Lake. The Rattlesnake boat launch.
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Campers on shore at Bartlett Lake.
A large Great Blue Heron stands guard on a rock at Saguaro Lake.
a restaurant right on the water, a campground at the edge of the lake, and is the home of the Dolly Steamboat nature tours. There are also national forest campsites and a boat ramp for the public.
Boater with kids on Saguaro Lake.
Saguaro Lake, the last reservoir on the Salt River, has a marina, a restaurant, many picnic ramadas, boat ramps, hiking trails, and is home to Desert Belle lake tours.
“The World’s Smallest Rock Arch” in an aerial photo taken at an altitude of 4 feet, showing the span at over 6 inches above the ground on the shoreline of Bartlett Lake.
Horseshoe Lake, on the Verde River, is used mostly for storage A view from the shore of Lake Pleasant 15 miles northwest of Phoenix.
Yellow Globe Chamomile flowers found on a trail at Bartlett Lake. Saguaros above Canyon Lake.
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Speed boat towing an inflatable raft on Saguaro Lake.
View south on Butcher Jones Trail at Saguaro Lake.
of water supply and is frequently almost dry. There are facilities for camping and picnics, however. Lake Pleasant, just 15 miles northwest of Phoenix, is huge, has two marinas, restaurants, picnic and camping sites, and lots of other amenities. But it‘s all in the Lake Pleasant Regional Park, so there are fees to enter, fees per water craft, and fees to camp. Bartlett Lake, a long large reservoir also on the Verde River, has a marina, soft sand beaches with dispersed camping, RV sites, picnic tables, paved boat ramps, and plenty of room to run free. Now, get out your water toys and come on out!
Saguaro and Prickly Pear cactuses at Saguaro Lake. Pleasant Harbor Marina at Lake Pleasant. Lakeside Restaurant and Cantina at Canyon Lake. Fishermen at Butcher Jones Beach on Saguaro Lake.
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Theodore Roosevelt Lake at the Roosevelt Bridge just east of Roosevelt Dam and the Apache Trail Highway.
More photos, maps, and links to websites of marinas, restaurants, campgrounds, and resorts at each of the lakes are on our website at: ArizonaVacationsMagazine.com. You can log-in and get access to all the information you need to plan your boating, fishing, camping, or sight seeing trip to The Lakes of central Arizona anytime.
View of Apache Lake and resort from the Apache Trail Highway, AZ 88. The Bartlett Marina on Bartlett Lake at start of boating season in late May Water skier on Canyon Lake. Yellow Prickly Pear Cactus flowers.
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The front steps of the Mystery Castle, an 8,000 sq. ft. 18 room home built of miscellaneous components that Boyce Luther Gulley scavenged to construct a real-life castle for his daughter, Mary Lou Gulley, in the 1930’s. The living room filled with Southwestern decor and artifacts.
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Outside stairway to the upper floor.
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The bedroom as it was originally decorated by Mary Lou and her mother.
Mary Lou Gulley in January 2000.
A fascinating mansion called the Mystery Castle is found on the north side of South Mountain in Phoenix. Designated as one of the Phoenix Points of Pride, stories about how this incredible structure came to be are told to visitors on tours of the bizarre house ($10, cash only).
It had no electricity or even indoor plumbing until 1992.
sand castles on the beach. He left his family in Seattle and moved to Phoenix when he got tuberculosis.
Mary Lou and her mother came to Phoenix after her father’s death in 1945. They lived in the castle and gave guided tours until their deaths in 1970 and 2010. If you like romantic stories or eclectic homes and furnishings, you will love this.
It was built by Boyce Gulley during the 1930’s to fulfill his promise to make a real castle for his daughter, Mary Lou, who had loved building
The huge rambling home contains 18 rooms, 13 fireplaces, a cantina, a chapel, and a dungeon. Gulley had constructed the place during the Depression using various things like auto parts, wagon wheels, old bottles, telephone poles, train rails, and other items he found at swap meets and the nearby town dump.
Stone tepee cat and dog house.
The dining room off the kitchen on the east side of the castle.
800 E Mineral Rd, Phoenix MyMysteryCastle.com
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A fountain bubbles continuously in a shaded sitting area of the main courtyard in the Desert Botanical Garden.
Desert Botanical Garden
Whether you have a couple hours, a half day, or a whole day to explore the Desert Botanical Garden, the experience is well worth the time spent. You get the opportunity to see and learn about various species of cacti, plants, and trees native to Arizona www.DBG.org and the Sonoran Desert in and around Phoenix in particular. You A large Organ Pipe cactus by one of several trails through the garden. can enjoy numerous trails and interactive exhibits throughout the gardens. The grounds are immaculately maintained and
1201 N Galvin Pkwy Phoenix, AZ 85008 480-941-1225
A cluster of Golden Barrel cactuses.
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A bridge with a cobblestone walkway in a shady section of the extensive and attractive exhibits of the garden.
clean, with many places to sit in the shade and just contemplate the beauty that surrounds you.
Springtime after a rainy winter produces many colorful wildflowers.
Small animals like Cottontail rabbits, and Golden-Mantled ground squirrels scurry through A Cottontail rabbit near a pathway.
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Orange Prickly Pear cactus flowers.
A Ruby-Throated Hummingbird getting nectar from a Fairy Duster flower.
The cactus and wildflower exhibits are colorful and attractive to visitors throughout the entire garden.
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A Spicebush Swallowtail butterfly.
A White Peacock butterfly on a pink flower in the Butterfly Pavilion. A Monarch butterfly.
the bushes and many birds like Great Horned Owls, Cactus Wrens, and Mourning Doves flutter in the trees overhead,.
called wigwams and wickiups that housed the western native tribes to get an idea of what living in the desert was like for them.
Be sure to take time to explore the Plants and People of the Sonoran Desert trail, which winds through five habitats that have provided food, fiber, medicine, and culture for the Tohono O’odham, Apache, and early Spanish inhabitants. See native huts and cooking areas
Desert Botanical Garden has many exhibits and events scheduled throughout the year, One of our favorites is the Butterfly Pavilion where you are surrounded by hundreds of butterflies that you can watch and photograph as they flutter by and land on flowers.
The Crested Saguaro, “Many Fingers.”
Everyone likes the hot pink Hedgehog Cactus flowers when they bloom.
A Painted Lady butterfly.
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View north from the Horsethief Basin fire lookout tower in Prescott National Forest southeast of Crown King.
Back-Road Adventure by Tyger Gilbert I’ve made this all-day trip several times. Once in my Camaro, when I took out my oil pan, and a few more times in my 4x4 pickup or later my 4Runner, which were both more suited for the excursion. The road has since been improved so most passenger cars can make the trip without damage, but you still will be going around 25 mph for most of the way. The area is great for all off-roaders with ATVs and 4x4 jeeps, so if you have one, bring it. You’ll have lots of fun. The adventure starts on Interstate 17 north of Phoenix. You take the Bumble Bee Exit 248 if coming 44
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Hairpin curve in the road from Cleator to Crown King.
The road is rough but doesn’t require four-wheel drive.
An old dump truck with a large bird nest in the cab.
Renting a cabin overnight in Cleator may be unlikely.
Pink Hedgehog Cactus flowers.
The James P. Cleator General Store and Bar in Cleator is along the way.
north, or the Bloody Basin Exit 259 if you come south from Flagstaff. As the map shows, they both lead up through Cleator, which is really just a ghost town, but has a current population of about 9. 45
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You might meet some interesting people in Crown King, like this tough old gold miner at the saloon.
Crown King Saloon once was a brothel, but now is a hotel, bar, and cafe.
If you get the chance, stop at the bar in Cleator for a cold beer, as it is a unique place with nice folks. Forest Road 59 up to Crown King is on the trackbed of the train that used to service the gold mines in the area, the Bradshaw Mountain Railroad. The tracks were torn up long ago, but several switchbacks they used still remain. It’s not a difficult climb, but take it slow.
The main street in Crown King.
The town of Crown King began in the late 1880’s and served the
gold mines scattered around the Bradshaw Mountains there. Today tourism supports most of the 130 or so residents who remain. At an elevation of 5771 feet, it’s a lot cooler than in Phoenix and it’s thick with pine trees. There’s a general store and post office on the main street where you can get gas, but the gathering place in town is the saloon, which doubles as a hotel and cafe as well as a bar. The rooms are rustic,
View to the west on the crest of a ridge from the road to Horsethief Lake.
You don’t have to drive a Jeep. The general store in town.
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Read more about Crown King, its real estate opportunities, and recreational events up there at: CrownKingAZ.com
Horsethief Lake has no picnic tables but has a trail around it for hiking.
A Greater Short-Horned Lizard.
but the food is quite good. When the off-roaders convene on the weekends, you can barely get in. The road goes west up the mountain and takes a scenic journey across the ridges until it joins with the Senator Highway, a dirt road that wanders north to Prescott. South, this turns into Horsethief Road and goes up to a fire lookout tower. If the ranger is there, you can go up and enjoy a spectacular view. Horsethief Lake nearby is a pretty place for a picnic, and it’s stocked with trout if you like to fish. Known as Horsethief Basin Recreation Area, there are lots of hiking trails and places to camp if you wish to stay overnight before returning home. Yellow Prickly Pear cactus flowers.
Ranger Tony loves visitors but still gets his work done.
View to the east from the Horsethief Basin fire lookout tower.
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A coyote slinks through the bushes in Dreamy Draw Park in central Phoenix. Photo by Al Tomas. A bobcat in the Arizona-Sonoran Desert Museum zoo.
Phoenix is the sixth largest city in the country by population, and is larger than Los Angeles A Common Black-Hawk soaring over Oak Creek Canyon at Sedona.
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A Roadrunner in Lookout Mountain Park in central Phoenix.
A Turkey Vulture at Saguaro Lake.
geographically, yet many wild animals roam the huge desert parks within its core.
what you might see, and you are almost guaranteed to spot many different species on each visit.
bird-watching opportunities in almost any season you go there.
Go farther out from populated areas and you will likely see a lot more wild animals of all kinds. Its one of the things that make Phoenix and the whole state of Arizona an exciting destination for your vacations. You never know
Several locations around the state are known nationally and even worldwide for having excellent
A few of the interesting creatures that call Arizona home are shown here. Some of those that you will be less likely to encounter out on
A Chuckwalla lizard sunning on a rock on North Mountain in Phoenix.
A Two-Tailed Tiger Swallowtail, the official Arizona state butterfly.
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Feral donkeys north of Lake Pleasant in Phoenix.
Wild horses roaming free at Coon’s Bluff north of Mesa.
your travels (perhaps fortunately) such as bobcats, mountain lions, or bears can usually be seen in one of the excellent zoos or wild animal parks in the state.
Jack rabbit in a yard in Phoenix.
The secret to getting to see wild animals in the woods or desert is to slow down. Wherever you go, take your time and really watch your surroundings for movement. Sit or stand quietly for a while and the natural residents will resume their normal routines around you. Your patience and observations will be enjoyably rewarded.
Yellow Wren in a Palo Verde tree.
Pocket Mouse on North Mountain.
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Two affectionate Golden-Mantled ground squirrels in Phoenix. Red Tailed Hawk in White Tank Mountains.
Phoenix 2014
A Pyrrhuloxia, or Desert Cardinal.
Collared Peccary, or Javelina, in Bearizona Wildlife Park in Williams.
A Gambel’s Quail in Tucson.
Leopard Frogs, a protected species, in water in Tucson.
A sleeping Burrowing Owl.
Desert Bighorn Sheep ram in Arizona-Sonoran Desert Museum zoo.
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Sunset through a forest of Saguaro cactuses at Picacho Peak north of Tucson, in late November.
Photography Tips
SUNSET SHOTS by Tyger Gilbert Seeing the brilliant orange to red colors of sunsets in Arizona can make a vacation here worthwhile all by itself. Arizona has its own type of sunset, which some people theorize is due to the dusts of the desert in the air. No matter what time of year you visit, the sunsets likely will be quite spectacular. Getting an incredible photo of a sunset is easy if you do it right. The trick is to watch what clouds are forming on the horizon in the west (if there are any at all). They need to be high enough that the 52
Fireball sunset south of Phoenix, in November.
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Sunset west of Picacho Peak, in October.
Mountains north of Tucson, in October.
sun will shine up under them as it sets, or thin enough so it shines through or between them. Be someplace where you can get a good view of the sunset. Consider interesting trees, rocks, buildings, people or anything else you can use to frame the sunset or be silhouetted against it. Go at least 30 minutes before the sun sets and plan to stay 30 minutes or more after it sets. Some great images occur after the sun has gone down, so stick around and keep shooting. Be sure to have your equipment ready. Put fresh batteries and an empty memory card in so you don’t have to waste time changing them in the middle of shooting.
West Phoenix at sundown from North Mountain, in December.
Silver sunset at South Mountain, in September.
Contrails in sunset in Phoenix, in January.
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Do both zoomed-in and wide angle shots. Pan left and right, Tilt up and down. Shoot bracketed exposures. Don’t try to get the perfect image in every shot. You have a very limited time, so try to get as many shots with as many variations as you can. Once you upload them to your computer, you can select the best ones and crop them to get just the right composition. White Tank Mountains, March.
Sky over Phoenix, August. Hill on North Mountain, May.
Use auto exposure lock as an alternative to bracketing. Point at a lighter or darker part of the scene, hold the shutter halfway down to lock the exposure, then reframe the picture and press the shutter all the way. This will modify what you would get on Auto otherwise. Take your camera’s white balance off of Auto and set it to “daylight”, or set it to “cloudy” or “shade” to warm up the color tones. You can also adjust the color and intensity later with your photo processing software on your computer. Sunsets are inherently contrasty. Switch from Auto to Program, then set the contrast lower (flatter) to get more detail in the highlights and shadows, and increase the color intensity to compensate for the flatness.
North of Phoenix, September.
Rainstorm in west Phoenix, July. North of Tucson, November.
Look north, south, and directly behind you. Look up at the sky above you. Sometimes the red sunlight will light up the clouds and objects around you in beautiful ways that you might not notice and fail to capture. Towers on Shaw Butte, August.
You can make the ISO setting lower to reduce noise with low light, but this will mean using a longer exposure and necessitate using a tripod and a two-second delay on the shutter to eliminate camera shake. Using a higher ISO will give you more freedom. Most of all, experiment and have fun! You’re not documenting an event. You’re creating a work of art. Enjoy the process as much as the results.
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West of Picacho Peak, October.