Arkansas Wild | Summer 2022

THE BUFFALO RIVER IS THE HEART AND SOUL OF ARKANSAS’S OUTDOORS. WHATEVER YOU’RE LOOKING FOR IN A GETAWAY, FROM EXTENDED WEEKENDER TO A FULL-ON VACATION, YOU’LL FIND IT HERE.

NATURE LOVER

The Buffalo River is all about natural beauty. Soaring cliffs, scenic hikes and peaceful camping along the banks provide the perfect backdrop to an unforgettable adventure.

The Buffalo River Trail (BRT), which begins near Whiteley Cemetery in Boxley Valley, winds along the bluffs, gravel bars and banks of the river. This hiking route will give you a little bit of everything — scenic overlooks, old home sites and wild areas. The scenery is breathtaking but comes at a price: The most spectacular stretches of the BRT rate moderate to strenuous, covering long, steep bluffs and rocky terrain. For gentler hiking, focus on the latter 8 miles, starting from about Erbie.

Trailheads to the BRT are located at the south end of Boxley Valley, Ponca Low Water Bridge, Steel Creek, Kyle’s Landing, Erbie, Ozark and Pruitt.

THE BUFFALO RIVER: A NIFTY 50

Nestled in the deep woods of the Arkansas Ozarks, the Buffalo River spent centuries as a relatively small waterway most people outside of the state had never heard of. Arkansas, however, cherished this well-hidden secret gem, going so far as to create two state parks around it, Buffalo River State Park in 1938 and Lost Valley State Park in 1966.

But as the 1930s dawned, political movement was afoot to dam rivers in the name of flood control and generating hydroelectricity. This movement affected waterways throughout the U.S., and in 1938 those plans came to north-central Arkansas where the Army Corps of Engineers proposed to dam the Buffalo at two points.

Such measures were favored by development interest groups such as the Buffalo River Improvement Association, established by James Tudor of Marshall in Searcy County. Staunchly opposing the proposal was the Ozark Society, led by environmentalist Neil Compton, and the clash between the two would introduce many in the nation to the Buffalo River. Pro-dam forces had an ally in Third District Congressman James Trimble, while the environmentalists hit up the Department of the Interior over the possibility of the waterway being declared a national river.

The biggest wins in the fight to save the Buffalo came in the mid- 1960s, including a canoe trip by Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas and Gov. Orval Faubus rejecting the idea of a dam, leading the Corps of Engineers to withdraw its proposal in 1965.

Momentum found another gear when environmental-leaning John Paul Hammerschmidt defeated the pro-dam Trimble in 1966. Hammerschmidt, along with Senators J. William Fulbright and John McClellan, formally introduced the Buffalo National River legislation in 1967. In 1972, Congress voted to establish the nation’s first “national river.”

Today, the Buffalo National River is one of the leading tourist destinations in Arkansas, averaging more than 800,000 visitors a year. Along with water activities, the park offers more than 100 miles of hiking trails as well as designated trails for horseback riding. The park also includes three congressionally designated wilderness areas and is — and will forever remain — one of the last remaining freeflowing rivers in the country.

GET WET

Buffalo River float trips are more commonly associated with the first part of the year, when springtime rains and snow melts engorge the river at higher levels. By the time peak vacation season rolls around, the heavily rain-dependent Buffalo is generally too shallow for a float along its full 151 miles. However, there are stretches that, with normal precipitation, are navigable all year. Here are some examples for the summertime adventures:

DILLARDS FERRY TO RUSH LANDING Distance: 9 miles Estimated Time: 4-6 hours Slow and easy most summers, this Lower Buffalo route offers great fishing holes between Buffalo Point and Rush and stopping points at Buffalo Point and Ludlow Bluff. Taking out at Rush Landing, check out the ghost town in the vicinity before catching the 15-minute shuttle ride back home.

MT. HERSEY TO WOOLUM Distance: 8.6 miles Estimated Time: 4 hours A popular middle Buffalo stretch, this route features The Narrows (“Nars”), an outcrop of limestone eroded from both sides by the Buffalo and Richland Creek. Paddle another half-mile to reach Skull Bluff, the eerie formation that appears as a human skull with two strange holes in the bluff, which you can paddle into and out of the holes during low water. A 60-minute shuttle gets you back.

TYLER BEND TO GRINDER’S FERRY Distance: 1 mile Estimated Time: 2 hours A good starter route, this Middle Buffalo stretch is very popular with tubers due to the short distance and includes a 10-minute shuttle. Flat and tame, it’s ideal for young families or whetting your appetite for what else the river holds in store.

RUSH LANDING TO THE WHITE RIVER Distance: 30 miles Estimated Time: 2-5 days For the ultimate adventure tackle this route, which cuts through the Lower Wilderness Area to the mouth of Buffalo National River. In wet weather, you’ll get a rapids sendoff just ¼ mile in at Clabber Creek Shoals (keep left to avoid strongest waves). Along the way, see Woodcock Bluff, Sheep Jump Bluff and Elephant Head Rock as you camp under the stars. Once entering the White River, you’re just 6 miles from Shipps Ferry and the finish line on a ride of a lifetime.

EARN YOUR STRIPES

This year, the National Park Service is sponsoring a special 50-mile challenge in honor of the Buffalo’s 50th anniversary. Contestants perform any physical activity in the park — walking, running, hiking, paddling, swimming, paddling, biking or some combination thereof — covering 50 combined miles during 2022. Those who complete the challenge receive a commemorative certificate and patch. Spread out your miles over multiple visits or bang it out during your vacation, it’s up to you.

RELAX AND RENEW

The Buffalo is the place to get away from the modern conveniences of life that clog up our senses. Cell service isn’t entirely lacking up here, but don’t consider it a given. Nature is predominant at the Buffalo and once she has our attention there’s a lot she can tell us.

For example, when was the last time the night sky took your breath away? If you’ve spent the majority of your life in urban areas even the size of Little Rock, it’s hard to describe the awe-inspiring view of a night sky crusted with billions of stars undimmed by artificial electric light. Yet this is just what you’ll find at the Buffalo River, a certified International Dark Sky Park.

So, whether you camp on a gravel bar or hunker down in one of the many cabins for rent near the water (such as Bear Creek Cabins, offering some of the best accommodations on the entire river), you’re sure to feel your soul rejuvenated simply by looking up.

YA GOTTA EAT

Check out these one-of-a-kind culinary attractions to complete your Buffalo River experience:

CLIFF HOUSE INN, JASPER Perched on a cliff overlooking Arkansas Grand Canyon, this historic spot lays claim to Company’s Comin’ Pie, billed as the official Arkansas State Pie. The view alone is worth the trip.

LOW GAP CAFE, LOW GAP Don’t let the modest building fool you; Low Gap serves gourmet grub alongside the usual burgers and fries. Be prepared to be surprised by this famous little joint.

BIG SPRINGS TRADING CO., SAINT JOE A smokehouse, BBQ joint, restaurant and deli in one. The sandwiches are fantastic, the desserts are swoonworthy, and the vibe is as easy and inviting as the Buffalo River itself.

OZARK CAFE, JASPER At 113 years young it’s reported to be the second-oldest restaurant in Arkansas. The food’s great, the ambiance is great and, frankly, if you haven’t been here you didn’t really visit the Buffalo.

BOC DELI, PONCA If you’re gonna picnic in or around the river, bring some eats that match the surroundings. The Buffalo Outdoor Center Deli serves up great sandwiches (try the Boat Ape) as well as fresh-baked pizza and other surprises.

The Buffalo National River is one of the leading tourist destinations in Arkansas, averaging more than 800,000 visitors a year.