Beyond Tradition - March 2004 by Armenian International Magazine

March 2004. U

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OEADTINE FOR APPTICATIOI{S IS ilIAY 17 ,2OOT

6 From the Edilor 7 Letters

Cover Story

18 Beyond Tradition

10 AIM View

Today's Women of Armenia

Notebook

12 Postscript 13 Word on the Street 14 Birthdays and Anniversaries Did You Know? 15 0uote Unquote I Bytes on File Economy

46 Continuing a Vital Role Turning Remittances into lnvestmenl

Connections

48 Dare to Dream The Armenia 2020 Project

56 The Narek Millennium

58 Underexposed 61 Other People's Mail

Conneclions

Focus

50 Armenia Revisited

16 Memories of Sumgait

Alexandra Avakian Shoots lor National Geographic Magazine

Armenian lnternational Magazine Volume 15 lssue

Po(masrer: Send addre$ chanscs

1o A

Murder in Budapest Reopens 0ld Wounds

Cover desrgn by Sevan Amirians photo by Karen Mirzoyan

Two

lM- PO. Bo\ l07Sl. Glendale. CA 91201. tlSA. AIM@eAmenia.com

AIM MARCH 2OO4

/\INI Publisher

Fourlh Millennium Sociely

llealthy

li aditions

l\4anaging Editor

Hrair Sarkis Sarkissian General l\/lanager

Laura Gononian Art Director

fradition is a good thing. And

Armenians pride themselves on their traditions. Tiaditionally, Armenians are hospitable. They are hard working, family oriented and

respect their elders. But Armenians also value their sons more than their daughters (maybe not all, but as a general statement this isn't too far off), have clear definitions for how a man should be and what a ntan should do. The same goes for a woman. The shoulds and musts are aplenty. And most are upheld in the name of tradition. But when tradition legitimizes limits, all of a sudden it is not such a good thing. And as Armenia is trying to move forward, with its eye on Europe, with efforts to compete in world markets, then limitations (dressed up as tradition) will not take it far. March 8 is Women's Day in Armenia, and that is why this month's cover story is about those women who have transformed their traditional roles to include what they find acceptable, desirable and necessary for themselves.

The women profiled are in no way a comprehensive representation of women in

Sevan Amirians Assistant to the Editor

Eliza Gallayan 0lfice Coordinator / Photo Manager

Narine Arushanian Web & Promotions Armineh Gregorians

Adve(ising

Sylvie Keshishian Otfice 0perations

Marine T0pchian Glendale California Olfice Assistant

Mihran Manukian

Armenia, but, even with a long way to go, they do present a visible trend.

The March issue of

Yerevan Bureau

National

Ani Plaza Hotel

Geographic Magazine represents the work of another woman - photographer Alexandra Avakian, whose interview (see page 50) sheds some light on the process of taking photos for what is possibly the world's truly international and multinational publication. One can only imagine the budget allocated for such an article, when the

'19

Sayat Nova Street Business Floor No. 28/29 Phone 58 36

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AlMArm@arminco.com

Contributors

Sara Aniargolian, Hakob Asatrian, Mark Belinsky, Aram Halian, Tamar Haylayan, Ralik Hovhannisian, Vahe Karapetian, Sylvie Keshishian, Edith Xhachatourian, Artem Sadoyan, Tom Samuelian, Chris Uregian, Nicole Vartanian, Fredrik Wadstrom

process has taken several years, several

trips for the photographer, several staff memberg a noted writer Frank Viviano,

Photographers

Antoine Agoudiian, Aflnineh Johannes, MKlihr Khacha[ian, Harry Koundakiian, Zaven Khachikian, Garo Lachinian, SNi Ma@ounian, Rouben Mangasarian, Karen Mirzoyan, Elic I'lazdan, An oshagan, Phol0lu]e Pholo News Agency, Berge Ara Zobian

579 36-exposure rolls of film, and countless hours of editing. Not to mention the researchers, fact-checkers, and the list goes on. AIM can only dream of such luxury. But only for a minute.Then,we must move on to the next issue, all of which has to be written, photographed, edir ed, designed, published, mailed, on a budget that is a fraction of what one

Accounting Services

Bedig Araradian, CPA Legal Services

Shahen Hairapetian, Allorney at Law Pasadena California lnternali0nal Legal Consulling Yerevan Armenia lT Consulting & Services

Vahe lssakhaflian Yerevan Armenia Printin0

Plintinlo

National Geographic Magazine story

Yerevan Armenia

would cost.

And maybe it is another Armenian tradition to value what others do, over what we do. It is time to change that tradition as well. AIM values the work of the National Geographic Magazine, and believes that it needs to be promoted, even as we hope you will value AIM and continue to promote this magazine.

Hrair

Write to AIM! We welcome all communication. Although we read all letters and submissions, we are unable to acknowledge everything we receive due to limited staffing and resources. Letters t0 the Editor may be edited for publication.

Sarkissian

Managing Editor Armenian lnternalional Magazine Founded in 1990 Founding Editor Varlan 0skanian F0unding Publisher Michael Nahabet 207 South Brand Boulevard, Suite 205, Glendale, CA 91204 USA Phone 818 246 7979 Fax 818 246 0088 AllVinfo@eArmenia.com

AIM MARCH

2OO4

however like

to take this opportunity

make the case for a number of public officials who recently were not only extremely helpful but also saved me some money, even if perhaps unintentionally. When traveling to the US and back from Armenia last month, I somehow managed to lose my Armenian 10-year visa/passport on the evening before I was traveling at 5am the next morning. After contacting a few people

in the

higher echelons of the relevant Ministries at 11-11:30pm, I was advised that my best hope was to cross my fingers. If worst came to worst I should offer the authorities a tearful story about my poor arthritic grandmother who would be waiting for me at New York's JFK airport to take me to my even poorer sick grandfather's deathbed. Or a $50 bill. As for getting back into Armenia two weeks later, I thought I might experiment Taking a Chance The intense bureaucratic wild goose chase

and inflexibility of Armenia's (in)famous public sector are quite renowned and have been well-chronicled in your pages. I would

with the Government's highly popular new evisa or more likely just get a hard copy at the last minute at Zvartnots upon my return. In the event, all my plans were irrelevant. At departures, the passport controller, visibly

iYdormation Get

freu

ffNd

disturbed either by my unflattering photo or more likely the unholy time of day, only glanced at my British passport and let me through without a word. On my return at 5am two weeks later I thought to try blufflng my way out of paying for a visa by showing yet another exhausted controller a photocopy of my Armenian 10

year visa that

had made a year ago for

"emergencies". After explaining to her how I had managed to make the photocopy before

losing my passport, the controller made a remarkably quick (by usual standards of course) search on her screen and a phone call to I have no idea who before promptly giving

me that charming "you may now enter Armenia" nod. Morale of the story? 1. Public officials can be extremely cooperative and save you both time and money as long as you visit them at 5am and cross your fingers. 2. The e-visa maybe funky and in fashion but the Xerox-visa is much cheaper and just as effective. Chris Uregian

in oUr one J,lop

Yerevan,

Wsitor Cefier!

ARmEnl Alnformation Anrvmu^l.N Tourusu DrvnlopNamrr AGENCy 3 Nalbandyan St., Yerevan - Tel.: 54.23.03, 54.23.06 - E-mail: info@armeniainfo.am Funding povkiod by the United Stat68 Agency for lntemational Development (USAID), with technical assistanco by lntomational ExecutivB Servico Corps (IESC).

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2OO4

Armenia

Another Angle I loved the January/February issue. I especially enjoyed the article about

The Fourth lVlillennium Society is an independently lunded and administered public charity committed to the dissemination of information lor the purpose 0f developing an informed public. Underpinning all our work is the firm a democratic society in Armenia and democratic institutions in the Diaspora. The F0urth Millennium Society publishes Armenian International lilagazine in its eff0rt to contribute t0 the national dialogue. The directors are grateful to the Benelactors,

conviction thatthe vitality olan independentpress isfundamâ&#x201A;Źntal t0

Parajanov. I visited his museum last summer when I was in Yerevan and was so happy that you wrote about him. I also enjoyed the article about the Turkish border. I found the comments from diplomats and businessmen to be interesting. I never thought of all the different angles to the problem.

Trustees, Patr0ns and Frlends 0f the Fourth lvlillennium Socrety who are committed t0 the well-being, growth and development 0f Armenians and Armenia through the promotion ot open discussion and the free fl0w of inlormation among individuals and organizations. Their financial conlribulions support the work 0f the

Fou(h lVillennium Society and ensure the independence 0l AllV. -Vahe Aqhabeqians, Salpi Haroutinian Ghaiarian, Shahen Hairapetian, Michael Nahabet, Ratfi Zinalian, Directors

What was the cover photo of? It was a great shot. but I don't understand why the

Benelaclors Sarkis Acopian, Albert & Tove Boyajian, The Cafesjian Family Foundation, lnc., Araxie M. Haroutinian,

-'"'li:"ffiJ:ll:lill

people had all the bottles in church. By the way. I ordered Pomegranate

Coasters from your Marketplace section. They're wonderful. My friends just flipped for them and I would like to order 2 more

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photo is of the blessed water on Armenian

The January FebrLmry cover

distribution of Christmas at St. Gregory the llluminator Cathedral in Yerevan.

The Details Congratulations on the superb Jan/Feb issue of AIM and a positive start to the new

Raffi

Tenth Anniversary Corporate Sponsors Aesthetic & Reconstructive Plastic Surgery, Garo Kassabian; Armenian Jewelers'Association; Commerce Casino, Hasmik [Igrdichian; George Tumanjan; Grand Tobacco, Hrand & Mikayel Vardanian; ISB Group, Armen & Ketty Kazandjian, Law Ollice of Aris Arlounians, Aris & Karine Artounians; Law 0ffices of 0urfalian & 0urfalian, Rafi & Sarkis Ourfalian; NASA Services lnc., Sam & Elizabeth Sarkisian, Nick & Kamelia Sarkisian, Arsen Sarkisian; Pacific Sales, Jerry Turpanjian; Remax of Glendale, Vahe & Aida Yeghiazarian; Yerevan Hotel

year. Few publications arouse such a range of emotions, enlightenment, hope, anger, sorrow

pride and most importantly motivation. The wide variety of subjects covered have been brought to your readers with accuracy, correctness and respect, as well as a standard ofjournalism which should set an example to journalists in Armenia; black and white - not gray. Sarineh Balekian Paris, France

Services Needed Your article on the mental health clinic in Yerevan was refreshing. I have often heard that to most Armenians, in Armenia or not, going to a therapist is a taboo. As a result, people end up suffering in ways that they really don't need to. I am glad to see that in Armenia, there are those who are concerned enough to promote such services, and parents who care enough to provide what is needed for their children. Henry Sahakian Yerevan, Armenia

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Louis

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V John & Lucille

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ust w sHilGTolt Dc

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Corection In the Jan-Feb issue of AIM, on page 40, in the article entitled, "Head Start: organization should have been Friends of Armenia (friendsofarmenia@yahoo.com)

USA MASSACHUSETTS

N shan

Michael & Hermine Piranian

lllanoushag Fermanian

Adrine Karakashian

l\,,1ihran

Mental Health Clinic Lrads the Way," the correct name of the UK-based charitable

& Sona Khanlian Krikor Krikorlan

Zaven

Friends ol AIM The F0udh Millennium Sociely is graleful lo the l0llowing lor contribuling last month lo ensure All\,4s llnancial independence. oANAoA N0ra & Robert 0hanianians,

ust cA Calilornia

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Changirg Times And New Women Role Models

f, rapidly changing world, the modern age, new times, and new Ilpossibilities. All terms that are heard, used. and digested every But in Armenia, the changes are that much faster, as there is so much that is new. After decades of contradiction, repression and control, independent Armenia is playing catch-up. Women's role in society is undergoing particularly rapid change. Tiaditional Armenian customs seemingly call for a woman who is the obedient spouse, one who is perpetually in some form of self-sacriflcial role as homemaker. Yet today, more women are working jobs. driving cars. and balancing the family books than ever before. Long heralded as the guardians of faith, culture, and values that Armenians pride themselves on, Armenian women nowadays are iuggling more roles than ever. With the girls of today's Armenia facing so many roles in their future, who are the positive role models they turn to as examples? MTV, Hollywood movies, Russian pop-culture and the fashion world all are fueled by healy marketing and are more prevalent than ever as influencing forces on Armenia's youth. However, despite the fact that one could argue that similar - if not greater - forces are at play all over the world. Armenia is in a particularly precarious siluation given its day.

small size. Locally produced image-shaping entities are at a massive disadvantage when entering the playing field to compete against the international behemoths in the corporate media culture. As such, Armenian culture, including language, customs and values, are at risk.

So what is the answer'l How can Armenia continue to forge a viable future, branding its country and culture as something that can weather the market storm'J The answer sounds like a slogan, but it's real: By embracing and supporting excellence.The fact is that people will always be attracted to accomplishment, and in this realm Armenia can boast success. One overlooked but phenomenal arena where there is much to

boast about is chess. Armenia's women chess players have been setting the chess world on fire during the past two years. Though woefully under-funded and tiny in absolute numbers, the young talented masters of the most intellectual of games have been putting Armenia on the map.

Grandmasters Elina Danielian and Lilit Mkrtchian, Armenia's dynamic duo. have done nothing but win. Against the odds, and at times overcoming ridiculous obstacles, the two led the Armenian women's team to a European Team Championship in 2003. Ieaving much bigger favorites behind. Just in case the full meaning of that sen-

tence isn't clear: Two young Armenian women are Europe's top women chess players. They're the best. Humble, talented, and at the pinnacle of their field, the two women are in their early 20s and have decades of great chess to look forward to. Moreover, it is worth noting that excellence at this level can catapult an entire country forward. What Nadia Comaneci's success in gymnastics did for boosting the image of Romania worldwide can be repeated in various fields. Chess is among the easiest, where neither swimming pools nor training centers are necessary. What is necessary is that the sport continue to enjoy prestige. A visit any day of the week to Yerevan's famous chess house named for world champion Tigran Petrossian can assuage any fears. Chess is alive and well in Armenia. The next step is acknowledgment. Fortunately, in the selection by Armenia's journalists for the top sportsmen of Armenia for 2fi)3, the two grandmasters made the top three overall, with Danielian gaining top honors, the first time that a woman bested all the contending males for flrst place. Promotion of such exemplary individuals will make it possible to provide at least one answer when asked who the girls of Armenia today can point to as role models. No offense to Britney or Madonna, but we'll take Elina and Lilit, thank you very much. r

Changing Assistance The Aid That Keeps on Giving

a Third World country facing a famine. It is a develcountry trying to diversify and solidify and stabilize and fuel lts its economy. economy. Therefore, Iuel lheretore, the lnternatlonal international ald aid lt it recelves receives should be in line with this effort. First and foremost, the Diaspora must adjust the focus of its assistance to support this policy direction as

rmenia is not

lloping

much as possible.

Big Diasporan donors like Kirk Kerkorian and his Lincy Foundation fit both categories: on the one hand they are donors who donate to individual projects. Yet, no one can dispute that'donating' to infrastructure construction and maintenance is investing in economy as much as anything can be. Just ask those who lived through Franklin Roosevelt's post-depression years. Public workg public works, public works.That's what got America moving again. Kerkorian did it too. The rest of the Diaspora can follow suit and continue to'donate' - but to infrastructure. There's plenty of need to go around. Don't want to build bridges,tunnels or highways? Consider 10

irrigation systems or sewers. Not sexy perhaps, but inarguably vital and essential. The other option is to invest - in the traditional sense of the word - in stores and companies and businesses. Why is there this lack of investment? Armenians abroad claim the widespread corruption, poor investment climate and the influence of the oligarchs make it impossible for newcomers to do business and make proflt or enough profit to justify the risk. To some extent these claims are true. Despite Armenia's impressive indicators for economic openness and the fine picture painted by various international reports, Armenia's "ruling elite is in practice still reluctant to even share power in the business sphere" according to David Grigorian, Co-Executive Director of the Armenian International Policy Research Group and economist at the IMF.The legal system and regulatory authorities can be unpredictable and discriminatory, creating signiflcant barriers to Diasporan and other foreign investors. schools, hospitals,

AIM MARCH 2OO4

But this is precisely the reason why the Diaspora must get more involved economically. Diasporan Armenians have the magic combination: a wealth of experience different from what the Soviet Union used to offer, together with unquestionable emotional and organic ties to Armenia. This amalgamation is what Armenia needs: tough love - a willingness to knock down walls and barriers, in the name of country - and profit. There's nothing wrong with making a decent profit. Even in Armenia.Those who are happy to make money outside Armenia, and suddenly think 'profit' is a dirty word in Armenia have it all wrong. They must be convinced that what Armenia needs most is the seriousness of a serious investor. After all. no one will put money into a company and then walk away. That's the best guarantee that someone won't walk away from Armenia. An investor will quit looking at this

country as an ephemeral dream. For an investor, Armenia will be

real. very real, asset.

The Diaspora must play an active, targeted role in the nation's development process, forging a closer, more balanced working relationship with the Armenian Government and international development organizations. Subsequently, the Diaspora and international donors should use their financial clout to ensure that the government makes the micro-economic reforms necessary to foster a genuinely friendly, equal environment for all investors in each of these sectors. Diasporans should start investing with their minds, not with their hearts as many have so far," says one Diasporan who has been managing a consultancy in Yerevan six years noq "and this will bring benefits both to themselves and to the country." He's right. r

Changing Outlook Imagining the Armenia of the Future

lllhat

Armenia will look like in 2020? What are the real and crucial UUcnoices the nation is facing and will face in the next 16 years?

Above all, what development paths might Armenia follow in the future and what role can everyArmenian play to decide and shape that future? For a small, young nation whose modern history has been determined to a great extent by external forces and whose poverty rate persists at the 50 percent mark. searching for answers to these questions may appear to be a luxury that Armenia currently cannot afford.

Think again. These are precisely the questions that must be asked if Armenia is going to get from here to there - from a nation with excellent human resources (in and out of country) and a quickly growing economy (albeit from a very low starting point) to a country that can proudly, confidently call itself Europe. But someone - actually, a group of someones with experience in economic development, finance, sociology and government must come together to frame the right questions and listen to the answers.

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That is what Armenia 2020, a non-profit, non-governmental organization has been doing since February 2002 (see page 48). Capable, trained, interested individuals who created for themselves an opportunity to share their views on Armenia's possible future destinations - that's what this group of self-financed, selfdirected Diasporans did. The result is an invaluable starting point for discussions by those in a position to determine and implement policy. Does Armenia want to be Europe, Russia, Singapore or Israel? Roughly stated, those are the fascinating questions. Just imagine the interesting answers. Just imagine that the same kinds of serious questions and studied answers were available for transportation, for urban planning, for Diaspora policy, for education, for health services.What would happen if those from the Diaspora and Armenia most concerned and most qualified in each of these fields created their own forumg took the risks, and went public with questions and answers that affect everyone. That's what a Diaspora is all about. Just imagine. r

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AIM P.O.Box 10793, Glendale, CA 91209 USA Phone 81 8.246.7979, Fax: 81 8.246.0088 AlMSubs@eArmenia.com

AIM MARCH

2OO4

NOTEBOOK

Gounauc and taith Etchmiadzin Ordains Fresno Armenian into the Priesthood

lln l9 February, the holy day ofVartanants on this year's calendar, llD.r.on n.r.n Devejian (front, left) of Fresno (see AIM May 2002) was ordained into the Holy Order of the Priesthood by Bishop Vasken Mirzakhanian, Primate of the Armenian Diocese of Georgia.

The service was presided over by Karekin

II,

Catholicos of All

Armenians, in the Cathedral of Etchmiadzin. If that wasn't ecumenical enough, the service was attended by the families (who traveled from Fresno and Philadelphia) of the new Father Ktrij and his wife Paula as well as expatriate friends from the US, United Kingdom, Norway and Canada. Ambassadors from the US, United Kingdom, Italy and India were also present for the ordination service making it truly an international happening. Archbishop Datev Sarkissian, formerly of Los Angeles, leaned over

every now and then during the three and'a half hour mass and explained the service to members of the diplomatic corps. Reverend Dajad Davidian, formerly of Boston, brought a group of young children in to enjoy the sights, sounds, smells of an ancient cathedral and ajustas-ancient liturgy. Sister Arusiak Sajoian, formerly of Philadelphia, where she was principal of the Armenian Sisters Academy, and Father t2

Ktrij's principal, was beaming to see her student accept his new calling. Deacon Armen was given the name Ktrij which means brave or courageous. This is significant not just because it aptly describes a Fresno-ite willing to take on such a responsibility, but also because it is the baptismal name of the Catholicos. While ordinations are enormous events in the life of the priest and his family this one is especially noteworthy as Father Ktrij is the first US-born to be ordained into Priesthood in Etchmiadzin. Reverend Father Ktrij is the Foreign Press Secretary for the Mother See. Born in Philadelphia, he moved to Fresno when he was 10 years old. Tiained as an architect, Father Ktrij was also active in the church and was ordained a deacon. He moved to Armenia in 2001 with his wife. Father Ktrij attended classes for two years at the Kevorkian Theological Seminary in Etchmiadzin in preparation for the priesthood, while he was working as the Press Secretary. His wife also works at the Mother See. Father Ktrij will complete 40 days in seclusion in preparation for his first celebration of Divine Liturgy which is scheduled to take place on Palm Sunday.

AIM MARCH 2OO4

NOTEBOOK

Ihe Role ol Women And How it Has Changed llIM

asked residents ofYerevan whether they thought the role of a has changed in the last 10 years, and how?

ilwoman

I can say that not only has the role of a woman changed, but during these 10 years, it has expanded. Even today, the main role of the woman is that of a mother in the home, but in addition, she has a lot more responsibilities and opportunities in her life that she did not have before. N atalia G ars oy an, 3 4, H airdres s er

I have never been for women's progress. But as I see it now, compared to before, there is a huge difference in their roles. Today, people respect what women say a lot more than they did 10 or 15 years ago, when a woman could not even sit at the dinning table if the guests were men. Va z

I think it

gen M nats akanian, 5 6, Retir e d

is a small portion of women who have convinced them-

selves that their roles have changed and that they are equals with men. Perhaps Europeans agree with this, but in Armenia, society thinks that

I think that in Armenia the role of the woman will never change as there is this general mentality according to which a woman is there

a woman should remain a wife and a mother. Even the majority of women agree with this idea.

solely for her husband. But still, I am hopeful that maybe in the next 10 years, a lot of things could change. Karine Dalakian, 26, I nterior D esigner

Ten years ago, an Armenian woman could not imagine that she could support her family with her own income. Today, she can not imagine that her family can survive without her income. This in itself is proof that women's roles have changed and become even more important. Anahit M anukian, 40, P hy sicinn

Thron Mir zoyan, 28, Fashion Designer i-

-';:-i:,1;i

i,trtl08tt$SE {l}{}ro Ha Afl(yriaxrbl

EIGGil

A woman cannot progress as long as her husband's thinking is prehistoric. And 10 years is too short of a time for men to change their thinking. That is why I don't see any changes in the role of women, whether it is in 10 years or 20 years. M arina Ayvazian, 52, M aintenance Worker

I am convinced that within our society, a woman has a bigger role than a man. This is because women today have many more interestg more ambitions and are reaching their goals more than men are.These women's roles have reached those of European women and in 10 years,

that is a huge change. Gayane Mirzoyan,

3 1,

Business Owner

There is a lot of change.Women have started to occupy more useful and official positions in society. Her role is no longer just in the home, but in political and business arenas as well. Artashes Sargsinn, 35, Historian

Of course it hasWho could have imagined 10 years ago that women could go so far. It was thought that women driving cars was an absurd thing, let alone being business owners or politicians. Yet today, other than being the president, women are found in every aspect of society. M krtich Sarukhanian, 40, D ocent

I don't think that the woman's role

has changed.

Although there is

rEMmatr

some progress in women's occupationg their main role is and has been to be good mothers in their families.This is how I see it. Vardan Ayvazinn, 25, Computer Programmer

AIM MARCH

2OO4

NOTEBOOK

$unilulrian's 80* "Moth er" Theater Renovated !n all the fuss over renovations in Yerevan,

the anniversary of

IYerevan's oldest and best known theater almost fell by the wayside. Almost, but not quite. The Sundukian Theater, founded 82 years ago, just celebrated its 80th jubilee (closed for two years for renovations) with a grand program of excerpts from its repertoire, fllm clips of its greats, and typically, a few speeches. Those in the audience included all of Armenia's literati,as well as the

political figures who had overseen the "Mother" Theater's renovation, with Lincy Foundation funding. Congratulations came from the evenolder Armenian "Father" Theater in Tbilisi (founded 145 years ago) as well as the Armenian Theater of Gumri. The Sundukian is named for Gabriel Sundukian, 19th century playwright, whose famous Pepo was the fust play staged in this old and historic theater. Other standards in their repertoire include Checkhov's Cherry Orchard, Federico Garcia Lorca's Bernarda and His Daughters, A Streetcar Named Desire,l-nyon Shant's Ancient Gods.lhe old and great living actors were joined, on fllm, by the great names who still define Armenian theater - Vahram Papazian, Hrachia

Tennessee Williams'

Nersesian, Mher Mkrtchian.

enjoy a well-ventilated, heated hall. It's no wonder that Kirk

The 900-seat theater is one of Yerevan's half a dozen major theaters. For the first time in a long time, the audience will be able to

After all, it wasn't just a birthday, it

Kerkorian's name rang several times in the course of the celebration. r was also a major

tathen lhows Best Hard Work and Patience Pays Off lrvon attend Yale, Corn-ell - American Ivy League colleges.The youngest Martin is ready to graduate high school, at age 13. Seryan Azizian, physicist and father of the fabulous five is a graduate of Moscow State University, a researcher at Yerevan State University, a student of law. The senior Azizian, who has homeschooled his children, speaks of their successes as if he's made a prize scientific discovery. After years of hard work and patience, an experiment has flnally paid off. He made sure that his children all studied mathematics and languages, then physics, then chemistry, then biology before they could go on to history or geography. All of them graduated from high school well before their time and they all speak several languages. "My children are not geniuses.They are regular children who have

f,f,eet the Azizians. Arsen,

Araksya, Gayane,

lUlHaruara, Dartmouth and

simply been given an alternative way to learn. I believe all children have the potential to do what mine have," he says in a factual, sort of clinical tone. r t4

AIM MARCH

2OO4

facelift.

NOTEBOOK

((Nobody thinks of forgetting the Holocaust or the genocide ol Armenlans in Turkey, so why should Ghechens lorget the national tragedy ol which each one ol them is a victim. u

29,400 l,let diflerence in number ol people who left Armenia over the number who entered

in the firct six months 012003

Akhmad Kadyrov, the President of Chechnya, on Stalins deportation ol 360,000 Chechens and 100,000 lngush because of supposed coIlaboration with the Germans orr,rn

38,800 Net diflerence in number ol people who lelt Armenia over the number who entered in lhe lirct six months o12002

}'[?J!1,y#Jf

r(The Executive Board commended the authoriti es lor the successlu I i mp lementation 0f macro-economic and structural policies that had kept inflation low, reduced the liscal and external current account delicits, and created an enuironment conducive to strong economic growth. D ln the lMFs Fourth Review under the Poverty Reduction and

ffi53;ijtt

rrThis crime is the logical Gonsequence 0t the anti-Armenian hysteria that has been lett unreined by the Azeri authorities over the yeani and ol the warmongering militarist propaganda ol recent months, which consistently inlects all ol Azeri society. lt is evident, that such state policy has crossed the bounds and otficials, representing Azerbaijan abroad, can commit cold-blooded murder. u From a statement by Armenias Foreign Ministry on the murder by an Azeri soldier, of an Armenian soldier, while both were studying at a NATO sponsored languaqe Orrnrr?r,il,.rrrt1i1d;l

rrl

had the opportunity to meet with the new president, Mr. llham Aliyev, and he had two laces at the meeting with me. First, with Azerbaijani journalists and aides present, he talked in Azerbaijani, and he was uery, uery tough, according to the translations. Then he sent them out, all ol them, and then there was only me and my adviser, and him and an adviser, and then he talked in almost tluent English, and it was quite another approach. He was very conciliatory, and he really wanted to meet with [FeoFIel, especially concerning the conllict with Armenia. I mean, il he was not blufling all the time - and I don't think he was I think there is a possibility for an opening up and reconciliation with Armenia. l l PerGahrton''n"1',1'[J[:[!,:1,'J,'lL',iT3f,T,lB1lf[ill

7]54 Number ol weddings in the lirst six months ol 2003 BB5

Number ol divorces in the lirst six months 012003

1l ,000 Number ol Armenian citizens who applied lor tourist visas to the US in 2003

4,627 Number ol visas granted 3 Number ol days Russian-Armenian businessman Ara Abrahamian spent in ltaly as Russia's goodwill ambassador lo UNESC0, and canied out discussions about Russian-ltalian joint business councils, as well as the pan-Armenian World Gongress which he created and heads

I Percentage ol birth rate growth in Armenia in 2003 (according to RA National Statistics Service)

-0 07 Percentage ol population rate growth in Armenia in 2003

+0.44 Percentage ol population rale growth in Azerbaijan in 2003 -0.52 Percentage ol population rate growth in Georgia in 2003

+0.92 Percentage ol population rate growth in the US in 2003 Sourcx: Noym Thpm, Googlecom, Arncnpress, RA National Statistics Seruire,

CIAWorld Ftctbook

February 2004

AIM MARCH

2OO4

Focus

Memonies ol $umuait Murder in Budapest Reopens Old Wounds Qumgait. The word conjures up images ol

llmassacre and violence. It's actually

the

name of a Soviet industrial city, which in 1988, was the site of pogroms against Armenians. Nearly a century following the

early 19th century massacres within the Ottoman Empire, Armenians in the Soviet empire, too, were singled out and killed because

of their nationality.

The Sumgait brutality was made even more incredible and untenable not just because it was the 20th century but also by the fact that the perpetrators were the neigh-

bors of the victims. Armenian-Azerbaiiani relations would never be the same. A few dozen Armenians were killed. Tens of thousands fled.

The Karabakh movement which

had

begun as a peaceful call for self-determination also changed forever. Peaceful demonstrations were answered by violence against Armenians. The violence was followed by war. The Karabakh conflict was militarized. until the ceasefire of 7994. Fortunately, that ceaseflre continues to hold. At least in the war zone. Read on. Sumgait was 16 years ago.This Februaryas Armenians were preparing to mark the

anniversary

these horrors, Azerbaijan

joined the commemoration effort - in the least expectable way. An Azerbaijani soldier at the NATO Language training program in Budapest, Hungary axed a fellow Armenian trainee to death. Lieutenant Gurgen Margarian, 26, was decapitated with an axe purchased a few weeks prior to the murder. The unexpected horror also threw the international community - from NAIO headquarters to the Hungarian capital of Budapest - into confusion and shock. There were no strong statements, but it was clear that they couldn't decide what to do with a Partnership for Peace program whose member Azerbaijan did not seem ready to be a partner or in peace with its neighbor Armenia. It was hard to tell what was more terrible and contemptible. The soldier's act, or the way in which his attack was welcomed and accepted by Azerbaijanis the world over.

Comments and reactions

in Azerbaijan

began with sympathies to the family of the t6

slain Armenian soldier. And stopped there.

Rather, they continued from that point to calling the Azerbaijani murderer a hero, a national hero, a model soldier. Parents were asked to name their sons after him, a defense committee was formed, and the murderer became a hero.

AIM MARCH

2OO4

The Armenian press reported

these

absurdities and still maintained some sense of decorum. The Armenian authorities, too,

accustomed to not dignifying each Azerbaijani accusation also held their

tongue. But it was ciear the game was changing a bit.This was too raw and too inhumane.

The timing didn't help.

Lieutenant

Margarian's body left Budapest, with a full

honor guard send-off on February 25. It arrived in Yerevan on February 26, two days

before the Sumgait commemoration program which was held on Saturday February 28. This year, like every year, the Sumgait

refugees, most of whom live just outside Yerevan (see AIM Decemebr 1992) flocked to Tsitsernakaberd to place flowers at the khachkars which represent the graves of the deceased. In years past, this has often been a small, quiet ceremony, with a few hundred in attendance. This year, the Azerbaijani role

AIM MARCH 2OO4

was greater, and they succeeded in bringing 150,000 people out to

remember. r

The body ol Lieutenant Gurgen Margarian is being laid to rest one week alter his murder in Budapest by an Azeri military oflicer. Photo by

Phololure t7

Stony

1-lositions - thc scvcn lncnrbcrs ol purlianrcnt thc ortc ntinistcr. -l'his A IM (lor,cr is not about cithcr- ol thcse qroups. It's lrlso r.rot [rb{)ut wor]rcn's orqanizirtions such us Arnrcniurt Rclicl' Socictv (which rvc u cot cr in lrn upcotttittu issuc). BLrt it's ubout ull thc rvorrrcn in bctu'ccn.-l'hc prolcssion:rl \\'olnclr. tltcr school tclrchcrs. thc sccrclarics and

signiliclnl lurclcrshil'r

rc l1-lpcal to lrc nr()rc \\()nrcn in Ycrcr lrn. than rrrclr. I'hcr rrlso appear'1o be cloing rttore lIilur nrcn tkr. In thc curlr hor.rr.s ol' cach nrornirtg. hclirrc thc sun liscs. htrncllccls ol ri onrcn. ltll ot thenr sonrcl-rodr's gt'irndnrothe I'. sri e e 1r e\cr'\ c()r'ncr ol'thc crtv rrith llurd rnirrlc lrroon.ts so sltorl tlter hurc to si()op orut. []t tltu tinte Irtrrltlc lcrnc thcir lronrcs lrt nirtc or so clrclt ntrlr.rtirtg. thc citr is sPrillcss. 1-hcn thcrc lu'e thc rcnrkrrs on strec( c()nlcrs. I1 is nrrc to linrl a nlur sclling llou'crs or srtnllotl'cr sccrls rin rnakc shilt stancls. \\'onrcn clcan uncl kccp ortlcr in hotcls. ol'liccs. shol-ls. At thc other cntl ol thc s1tclr'r.lnl arc thc lcu u'orlcn in lre

ill

husinc'ss ()\\'ners.

In positions alrovc thcsc. nrcn usuirllv ckrnrinate. It is not lor thc lirck ol cornpclcnt w()nicn lvho coulcl pcriorm in hiqhcr ol'licc. It is just thc wav it is.'l'hc rva.v it has been. []ut thrrl is not hori'it rvill bc. ('hangc conres slouh'. as is thc casc in thc libe lal Wcst. too. hul it cloes come. Pe ople nright think thll Arrncnia mav he sufterinq frcnr l blltin clllin. rvith nurnv ol'its r.r'rcn travelling abroacl in scurclr rrl iohs. Ilut thcre is u hLLge scsmcnt o|iocictv hcrc that lurs hrain. logcthcr uith courage ancl drealns. cnouqh r ision to nrrkc Lr1-r Ior thc dil.l'crcncc. ancl then sonrc. llcrc is 1o thc Alnrcnian uoman. The slatue ol Mother Armenia, which replaced the statue ol Stalin after his tall, stands tall above the capital city. Pfoto by Karen Mirzoyan

il 'l

i'l

t_t.t_

l_ t1,,

a l-Il-t=l-l-

rll

i -*l

ffi

Stony

Ihe RiUht t0 Be Equal Laws vs Reality for the Fairer Sex lquality

between the sexes is an established

Lconcept with a long history in Armenian society. Ancient Armenian legal codes and constitutions were protective of women's rights as far back as 443 AD, when the Codes of Shahapivan specifically gave a woman the right to the family property in the event that her husband left without grounds. The code also gave her the right to bring a new husband into the same house. Later, the Criminal Code of Mkhitar Gosh in the 12th century specifically prohibited violence against women and imposed criminal penalties on anyone perpetrating such violence. More recently, Armenian women were members of the

national parliament

in the first

Armenian

Republic (1918-1920) at a time when women in the US still did not have the right to vote. Rooted in this tradition of equality, independent Armenia acceded in 1993, without reser-

vation,

to the UN's Convention on

the Forms of Discrimination Against Women. This UN treaty, which has been signed by 169 countrieg sets forth the basic tenets of equality that have been adopted by the world community. But how fair is life really for the fairer sex in Armenia? The American Bar Association's Central and Eastem European Law Initiative

Elimination of

All

point to the rights of "everyone" or of the only Articles in the Armenian Constitution which

zens and

to court citing discrimination against women

"everybody". However, one

or invoking other gender rights. There is therefore a sharp disconnect between the law's vision of equality between men and

specifically refers

equality

rights

(ABA-CEELI) set out to answer this question in July 2002 through an in-depth study of both Armenia's laws on equality and an assessment of the reality on the ground.

between men and women is Article 32. which refers to marriage and the place of the family. It reads: "Women and men enjoy equal

Karen Kendrick, ABA-CEELI Country

marriage, and in the course of divorce."

Director, explains: "Even though Armenia has adopted the UN Convention and has some good laws on the books, our report revealed that these laws are not aggressively

As such, the ABA-CEELI team found that although there are no discriminatory laws on the books, there also weren't any

enforced and that certain cultural norms that discriminate against women persist." The study found that Armenia's civil and

criminal code, as well as the Armenian Constitution, articulate a vision of equality which includes equal access and entitlement

for men and women in the full range of citizens' rights, including access to health care, education, and economic opportunities.

Several articles

Armenia's

Constitution declare equality for all people - referring to general equality among citi-

rights when entering into marriage, during

articles which specifically guarantee equal rights and opportunities for women, such as provisions which might specifically define and outlaw domestic violence. The single exception involves an anti-discrimination clause in Armenia's Criminal Code based on pregnancy and holds that no woman will be

denied employment or have her wages reduced on the basis of pregnancy or being a nursing mother. While laws exist on the books, they are rarely implemented, enforced or invoked by women, found the ABA-CEELI. For example, until today, no cases have been brought AIM MARCH 2OO4

women and the reality on the ground. Many women in Armenia accept this reality as a normal part of life. "While the laws are not overtly discriminatory certain gaps in the law are problematic. These include provisions which fail specifically to define domestic violence and spousal abuse. The Constitution incorporates through Article 6, all international treaties that have been signed and ratifled by the Republic of Armenia.This means that, technically, the UN Convention is a binding law in Armenian and its deflnitions and strictures should be applied in Armenian courts. In reality knowledge of the UN Convention among lawyers, judges and the public at large is minimal," says Valentina Poghosyan an attorney with ABA-CEELI

But what is the reality asked the ABACEELI team? Though a series of interviews with both women and men, the researchers found that while women are better educated and tend to attain a higher level of education,

Goven $tony

they are more likely than men to be underemployed. While women make money for the family and provide the basic support for the family, they are not considered "breadwinners" or heads of households. Artist Nune Aghbalian is a single mother of two grown daughters now. She's been raising them on her own for the past 15 years. "Because society thinks in terms of stereotypes, everything is somehow acceptable for men and unacceptable for women. Even my own daughters think to be independent, to work hard without a man in my life is wrong. They are both extremely well educated. I have been able to

provide them with everything they

need.

Nonetheless they believe that my decision to be the head of my household is an unacceptable one." While women make up the vast majority

and women. And I believe both men and women strictly adhere to these gender rules. And so we see the presence of discrimination among women against other women. And this reality is passed down from one generation to another. I believe there is another issue at hand and that is often that neither men nor women understand exactly what discrimination is. Naturally in these circumstances mothers without fully being aware undermine their daughters' rights and in turn make them vul-

nerable

to further discrimination."

says

Gohar Shahnazaryan, a professor of sociology at Yerevan State University. For example, starting practically at birth, a boy child is celebrated as the heir and carri-

er of the family name and a girl-child

perceived as one who will move to her husband's home to become a future wife and

of those involved in the non-governmental

mother. Throughout their formative years,

sector and social movements, they are severe-

boys are usually afforded more freedom of

ly underrepresented in politics. 'Armenian

action and choice

women are very active and the NGO sector which deals with a wide range of social issues proves this. These women are highly intelligent, civic minded and well informed of the issues which effect our nation. On the other hand we have only seven women in Parliament today. This clearly shows that though women make up 51 percent of the population and are generally better educated than men in this country they are unfortunately conflned to these positions and are not able to participate in government. This is a good opportunity to ask ourselves why?" says Hermine Naghdalian who is now in her third term as deputy member of Parliament. "Though our official electoral process is clearly non-discriminatory and allows both men and women to participate equally, the actual means by which our elections are conducted and where the mechanics of the actual system are set askew women lose out time and time again. And in the larger scheme of

in Armenian society.

Women are socialized to be quiet, humble

and obedient and not to draw too much

tfrt'

.rF

t1 m+

things, everyone pays for this," she adds. While women know and understand that they are discriminated against, they still per-

petuate such discrimination against other women and girls and often socialize their own children to accept these patterns. "In our society there are established rules for both men

AIM MARCH

2OO4

attention to themselves. Women tend to marry young and unmarried women and single mothers are particularly disapproved of. Armenian women themselves often believe that preferences for men over women are acceptable and that the

rigid social roles are a key part of

the

Armenian national character. Discussions of changing roles. tighting discrimination or promoting equality is often understood by men and women as a "threat" to Armenian culture. Armenian culture also places great

importance on keeping family matters private, which has serious implications when dealing with issues such as domestic violence or troubled marriages. Some specific sectors in which the difference between male and female access is particularly interesting are education and employment. The Constitution ensures every

citizen the right to education irrespective of sex. And the reality is that education is highly valued in Armenian culture for both men and women. However, the lack of resources

and the current socio-economic situation in Armenia (which calls for the man to be the bread-winner and head of the family) often

women are prohibited from being involved in "heavy and dangerous" work. Employers are

results in preferences towards boys.There is a sense that when resources are limited. education is a better investment for a boy than for

involving underground work (such as mining) or heavy lifting. Women are prohibited from being involved in "night work". except

a girl. The ABA-CEELI report found that women were sometimes turned away from

in special circumstances. The labor regulations related to pregnancy and motherhood are perhaps even more revealing. It is pro-

taking certain university courses because the assumption is that they will be married in a few years and the vacancy in that course would be wasted. Another phenomenon, giving men preferences in education. is the law

on military service in Armenia,

which

requires that men aged 18-27 must serve for

two years in the army. In order to obtain

deferment from military service. men enroll

in an undergraduate, masters or post-graduate programs and it has become well-known that boys are often given preferential treatment in admissions and scholarships to help them defer the draft. The differences between the sexes in the area of labor and employment is also interesting. There have been no major revisions of the Armenian Labor Code since independence, and as a result, many of the laws which do exist are outdated and inappropriate for the new market economy. For example,

not allowed to employ women in fields

hibited to employ pregnant women or women with children under two in overtime work. on off-days or to send them on business trips.The laws related to pregnancy and

maternity leave are evcn more expansive. Maternity leave is assured under Armenian law. Women are permitted to take up to 70 days of prenatal leave and up to three years of partially paid maternity leave. Other privileges and benefits given to pregnant women and nursing mothers include having their production quotas lowered or transferred to easier jobs with no change in their wages. Although these paternalistic labor laws may seem well-intentioned and are meant to

protect the well-being of women and children, in reality, they create an incentive for employers to discriminate against women in the workplace. Since employers themselves, particularly in Armenia's private sector. are AIM MARCH

2OO4

hardly earning revenues and are required to pay out stiff taxes - it is impossible to also take care of employees on maternity leave. It

therefore becomes almost certain that women are fired while pregnant so that the companies can avoid paying out benefits during their maternity leave. Certainly men also suffer from the same failures in the system as women do, and both sexes will benefit with the gradual improve-

ment of the quality of life in Armenia. Further, the ABA-CEELI's research did find hopeful signs for Armenia's women, noting women's high rate of participation in NGOs showing an interest and involvement in public life and growing activism, and an increasing number of NGOs in Armenia focusing on issues related to domestic violence, women's health and contraception issues, trafficking and women's political participation and leadership development. As women's equality in Armenia evolveq it seems that the conflict between the current socio-economic realities on the ground propelling women into modern roles and the more traditional cultural expectations of wives and mothers will continue to present a balancing act for modern Armenian r

women.

Stony

Reachinu Ghildner Labor of Love Proves Effective Inside the sixth prade class of Mrs. Marine

Itlnuriun- her loud and boislerous

students

are proudly preparing to sing the Armenian National Anthem in honor of those who perished in Sumgait in 1988. They do a practice round as their teacher smiles at them. The bell rings and they slowly shuffle into seats without much prodding by Unuzian.They listen intently as she reads to them about Sumgait. Then, together, they stand and sing the anthem again. continuing with a respectful moment of silence. This class is apparently one of the tough-

est at Nikol Aghbalian School No.

19.

Unuzian says this particular class has more than its fair share of only children. "They are generally spoiled at home and the center of attention. When they come to class, they act out in ways they can't at home. They also expect the same sort of attention their parents and grandparents lavish on them." Most of the other teachers don't have the patience to deal with them and dismiss them as unruly and difficult. In contrast, Unuzian

calls them extremely bright and good children, "they just require a little extra effort" on her part. And she's found a way to get

through to them by listening to their concerns while demanding respect. by paying attention and by not always sticking to the books or the lesson plan. "With 36 students in class. it's difficult to keep them focused. So I have to be able to go

and 15. Her younger son is a student in one of her eighth grade classes. Unlike many of the other teachers at her school. she's dressed simply, there's nothing fussy about her. Her students approach her constantly with questions and concerns. She speaks to each one kindly in a motherly affectionate tone, as if they are all her own children. She's been at Aghbalian for the past nine years. Her decision to move from another school where she had been teaching for eight years was purely a practical one as both her sons were already going to Aghbalian and being able to balance her work at school and be close to her children was becoming more

and more difficult. So she came to teach where they were studying. And she stayed. At university, she wanted to study journalism but after she was married her husband asked her not to pursue that path. Instead,

she chose education. Does she have any regrets? "No. Now my husband sometimes jokes with me and says he's jealous that I enjoy my work as much as I do." At Aghbalian, she teaches language and literature to middle and high school students, which she says is her contribution to her country. "The responsibility to spark interest in the subject matter being taught is on our shoulders as teachers. When I can get my students interested in what they are learning. then I have been able to succeed in giving back to my cultural heritage."

along with their needs sometimes, which

While her days are extremely busy

means that they aren't always in the mood to study or focus on the lesson plan. Often, they

work, they certainly don't end when she gets home. Between grading papers, planning lessons and attending to the education of her own children, she is also doing what women do. "My life at home is busy because I have to cook and clean and wash and it's hard when I'm teaching and I have to bring my work home," she says. "The women of my generation are still the bearers of these responsibil-

stay after class to talk and ask questions, which I am more than happy to encourage. All this helps build a trust with them." Unuzian says school is a sacred place for her. "I've been teaching for 17 years and every time I walk through those doors I realize what a huge responsibility I have. And I take this responsibility very seriously. I love what I do and when there is love for something the rest is easy. This is what keeps me going." It's certainly not the low pay or the heavy workload. An average monthly salary for a teacher is 28,000 Drams (approximately

$s0.) 42. she is the mother of two sons, 18

ities - of keeping the family and passing down our traditions while we live in these modern times." Still, it's a relationship of equals, and she and her husband try to teach gender equality to their sons, too. She tries to teach those same values at

school. Her eighth grade students, whom she's been teaching since they were in the AIM MARCH

2OO4

fourth grade, are one of those difficult groups other teachers complain about. There are 40 of them, mostly male. She says they are one of her best classes and at the end of the day, when she is done teaching, she feels as if she's

gotten as much from them as she has been able to give.

Through the years and countless hours of class time together her students have not only learned about her, but she's been able to learn about them. Now that they've put aside the formalities of getting to know one anoth-

er, they can get down to the business of learning and debate and discussion about not only the heroes of Armenian literature, but about art and life and love. "Some days I come to class and realize

that

won't get anywhere with the

lesson

plan and we spend the hour discussing life. On other days they impress me over and over

again by their ability to debate and dissect difficult reading material. My own son is in this class so I have a somewhat closer relationship with them. But I try to do the same

with all my classes and mostly I'm successful. When I'm not I take it very personally and

try to

understand what

it is that I'm not

doing, or doing wrong."

"This new generation of young people, I envy them sometimes because they are much

freer than my generation was. But they demand that we give them a voice, allow them to speak and they are extremely bright and intelligent.I think the problems at school arise when the teachers from the old school aren't able to understand that, and adhere to

AIM MARCH

2OO4

the old style of teaching." In a country with a very high literacy rate, where education has always had the utmost importance in the scheme of things, where educators were regarded in high esteem with some of the highest salaries during soviet times it's not surprising that despite the corruption that plagues the school system now teachers like Unuzian continue to demand r the respect that comes with their

titles.

Teacher Marine Unuzian. Photo by Karen Mizoyan 23

like Mothen Like llauultten Modern Day Team Enjoys Independence if,eet Ani

Muradian and 18-year-old lUlOurgt te. Manan.They both wor-k for the British Council in Yerevan. Muradian and Manan don't have the typ-

ical mother-daughter relationship. Mother has a full time job that requires traveling within and out of the country. Daughter went

to school abroad - the AGBU's Melkonian Educational Institute in Cyprus - for two years. She's currently a student at the European Academy in Yerevan and doesn't have to sneak out to go clubbing.

Tianscendental Meditation Group and they came to make presentations. I was asked to be their translator. Soon, it was obvious that we needed to work for supplemental income. There was so much going on during those

more harm to the child than good. If we raise our children to be dependent on us, then they will always be dependent on everything and everyone else in life." Their cat, too, is of the same mold. He's as

years," she says. Muradian was one of the lucky ones, or the smart oneq or maybe both. Her language skills were such that after the collapse of the old system, she escaped the joblessness that so many others experience. Manan is a product of both her mother's

independent as they are, they say. Though there is no perfect mother-daughter relationship, and the two seem to have

It's just the two of them and cat Box. Manan's father passed away about seven

upbringing and the changing times. Her future plans do not consist of marriage or a

years ago and the two have been on their own

set career.

ever since. Both are super intelligent, well versed in Armenian, Russian and English. Both are also strikingly beautiful and stand

Academy she's studying tourism but her

out in their dress and mannerisms. Muradian is a graduate of Yerevan State University where she studied English and lin-

guistics. Later, she

got another

degree

in psychology. Her perfect command of the English language has made her a commodity in this country. Since 1992, she's worked for the UNHCR, the Armenian Assembly, the Peace Corps and USAID. Now at 43, she's the Project Manager for education, society and science at the British Council where she's been for less than a year. Muradian says she comes from a family where education and work were impressed upon them as early as she can remember. "Growing up in Soviet Armenia we had to do summer work camp. I remember one summer I had to go to Noyemberian to a canning factory and didn't particularly want to and there were ways of getting out of it, but my father would not hear of it. He believed that work was essential, that it was the right path and I was never allowed to take the easy way out. So I went," Muradian says. After graduating from Yerevan State, she went on to work for a microelectronics flrm where she worked as a technical translator from English to Russian. She recalls her last years there.

"In

1989,

microelectronics

while I was still at the

firm and while

many outsiders began coming to Armenia there was a group from England called the

At the European

Regional

current love is photography. She'd like to go abroad to study. She even knows what school - UCLA. "I don't think about the future. I don't know what I'm going to do because next week I may want to go to a different university and do something altogether different. Most of the girls I go to school with now are simply going because that's what's expected

of them. They simply want a diploma in the end. And then there is that small percentage who are studying for a reason. If they decide to stay, that's when things will change in this country in the next 30 years."

With her part-time job at the British Council as an assistant in the resource center, and school, and friends, she's got her hands full. She says she rests when she cuts class, a fact she doesn't hide from her mother.'At least I'm not sitting at a caf6 because I can't

go out at night...most of the girls I go to school with cut class less than I do and still can't manage to work, and they're not allowed to go out." Manan says she thinks that for most girls in her school, their futures are already decided for them by their parents. Her own future

still remains uncertain. Her mother says she understands Manan. "I want my daughter to see the bigger picture and if she is able to convince me that what she wants or chooses

is part of that picture, then I am more than happy to respect her choices. I don't believe in this parental egotism and property-minded approach toward children. I think that does

AIM MARCH

2OO4

As far as the future of the Armenian

workforce in this country, while women in America were still expected to be stay-athome wives. And because they were a part of that workforce and were able to generate

woman goes, Muradian says. 'Armenian women have always been fighters and mothers and workers and caretakers. In the 1950's they were an important part of the

income they had a voice. After I had Manan my husband asked if I was going to go back to work. I asked him if he would be able to provide us with the income that I was able to

their share of problems, still. Ani and Manan

Muradian are in many ways redeflning the role of women in Armenia.

AIM MARCH

2OO4

bring from my work. And of course

was

impossible and so it was a short conversation and I went back to my work, to my career and I've worked ever

since.

Ani Muradian and daughter Manan (lett). Photo by Karen Mirzoyan

$tony

llere GomG$ thc JUdUG Alvena Gyulumian at the European Court ludge Alvena Gyulumian is Armenia's llrepresentative lo the European Court of Human Rights (ECHR), to which she was

balance of professional backgrounds is desirable, there should be an emphasis on individuals with judicial experience on the bench,

elected in 2003. In the two years prior to her election, she was a lecturer in human rights at the Yerevan

particularly judges with constitutional law

State Linguistic University.

1996, she

was appointed a member of the flrst constitutional court by President Levon Ter Petrossian.

Gyulumian started working as a lawyer

after graduating from Yerevan

State

University's Law Department in the 1970s. From 1978-1985 she was a member of the Armenian Association of Advocates where she provided legal assistance and defense in

court. In 1985 she was elected an associate justice of the Supreme Court of the Republic

of Armenia. She sat in the chamber which decided on civil cases.

Gyulumian has participated in more than

20 local and international conferences and seminars in the field of human rights and constitutional law, and worked with several non-governmental organizations, including the Association of Judges of the Republic

Armenia, Armenian Association of

International

Law and Centre of

Constitutional Law

of the

Republic of

Armenia. Gyulumian was President of the Association of Judges of the Republic of Armenia since 1997 until her election and holding office in the ECHR. How does one get elec'ted to the ECHR? In accordance with Article 22:l of the European Convention for the Protection of Human Rights and Fundamental Freedoms the judges are elected by the Parliamentary Assembly with respect to each country by a majority of votes cast from a list of three can-

and human rights expertise.

What have been your experiences with the ECHR, and have those experiences shed any light on what Annenia's court system (as well as social understanding) lacks in the Human Rights area? I was elected with respect to Armenia, but I sit on the Court in my individual capacity. It means that I don't plead the interests of the Republic of Armenia; I must be and appear to be independent and impartial. Under Article 27 of the Convention, to consider cases brought before it, the Court sits in Committees of three judges, in Chambers of seven judges and in a Grand Chamber of seventeen judges. The judge elected in respect to the State Party concerned shall sit as an ex officio member of the Chamber and the Grand Chamber. The court has divided itself into four Sections.The composition of the Sections is aimed at being geographically and gender balanced and to reflect the different legal systems among the Contracting Parties. Each judge is a member of a Section. The Chambers of seven judges and Committees of three judges constituted from the Sections. So, I sit in a Chamber of seven judges and Committee of three judges. The Grand Camber includes the President and the Vice-Presidents of the Court and the Presidents of the Section. Judges who are to complete the Grand Chamber in each case referred to it are designated from among the remaining judges by a drawing of lots by the President of the Court. As a national judge of Armenia I automatically sit as a member of Chamber

case concerning

can only suppose that

was because a

dominant view in Strasbourg is that while a

which they are given. Accordingly,

Government may decide that as a result of a particular judgment it should adopt a new policy or practice, amend the relevant legislation, reverse a decision or take other steps as necessary.

The Court considers the Convention a "living document," the provisions of which are being broader interpreted in Court's judgments.This judicial position of the Court

helps the member-States

introduce

changes to legislation or regulations and the national courts - to reconsider procedures of cases

examination.

Please comment on the number and types

cases brought to the ECHR from Armenia, and how they compare with other

countries

(in

number and type) of

similar and different situations. Are the cases from Armenia what the ECHR is all about, or are they off? Cases against Armenia are in the initial stage of the proceedings.That being so, I will refrain from any comments respecting the

principle

of confidentially of

deliberations.

For the same reason they cannot be compared to cases against other States.

I can only say that several applications were declared inadmissible as being manifestly ill-founded, for non-exhaustion of domestic remedieg or for being incompatible ratione temporis with the provisions of the Convention. Last reason is also common for cases against other respondent Stateg which

are new members to the Council of Europe, because complaints usually relate to events prior to the date of entry into force of the Convention in respect to that State.

or Grand Chamber whenever a

didates nominated by the country.The interna-

tional selection procedure involves a number ofstages and interviews I was one ofthree candidates nominated by Armenia and on April 2nd,2W was elected by the Parliamentary Assembly by a majority of votes Why do you think you were elected?

Once final, judgments of the European Court are binding on Governments against

Armenia is being examined.

Ratification

of the

Convention and

recognition of the European Court's jurisdiction mean that activity of all public

state power) in Armenia, in particular, of judicial bodies, their decisions and the procedures they authorities (organs

apply should not contradict the provisions of the Convention. AIM MARCH

2OO4

How do you think the ECHR csn/will

affect the lives

Armenian citizens

in general? The European Court of Human Rights is the only human rights court before which cases may be initiated by individuals directly claiming a violation of human rights by a State. Of course, the European Court of Human

Rights is not a higher instance towards

state's judicial system, it cannot overturn a decision given by a national court and neither can it instruct lawmakers.

Convention, the judgment may include an award for "just satisfaction."

The Court only considers individual

What kind of interaction can be expected in 2004 between ECHR and Armenia? It is planned that in October 2ffi4 the President of the Court will visit Armenia in

applications with the aim to establish whether the provisions of the Convention were violated. Where the Court finds that

there has been a violation of

the

order to participate

in the International

AIM MARCH

2OO4

Conference organized by the Constitutional Court of Armenia. Also, a one-week study visit in the ECHR is foreseen for 10 judges from Armenia. r

Judge Alvena Gyulumian. Photo by Photolure

Recipe lon $uccess And the Sweet Thste of Optimism WLT,"?#"3:,,Yli:::il dJ*T,:l business

1991

it was because

she could no

longer work as an engineer. Together with other women. some colleagues and some friends, similarly out of work as engineers and architects, they came together so that they might be able to make a living until things got better in their respective fields. Now. 13 years in business, Granatus is a unique, almost historic. pastry shop in Yerevan.

Granatus

is Latin for

seed. Granatum

means pomegranate.The combination of both theme and symbol is Granatus, the store. Since childhood Mirzoyan says the pome-

granate has been an important symbol for her. And in deciding on a name for her project, Granatus seemed the perfect fit. "The idea that we were many seeds coming together to form the fruit was exactly what Granatus was for me," she explains. At first, that's all it was - just a project. "We saved ourselves together in this basement of a store - emotionally and spiritually

we found refuge here when things were depressing and cold. We found

a way to

create here."

Hidden between four other pastry shops at the top of Mashtots Boulevard, at the foot of the Matenadaran, the little green shop with the pomegranate in the window deflnitely stands out. But in 1991, they were unique because there wasn't any competition. Those who lived here then, and those who came to visit, called them the Matenadaran shops. And this was one of the few places one could get something quick to eat - a mushroom turnover, a meat pie, a cookie. Walking inside is a bit like walking into an old curiosity shop. Vanilla and sugar and other lovely scents permeate the narrow room now as they did then. The striking cakes and pastries that line the counters are as beautiful to

F:r*'" *

**#

!ff

#p,

the eye as they are to the palate. Each piece is something similar to a work of art. And con-

sidering the women who make them are architects and engineers, it is no wonder that they are perfectly constructed. Mirzoyan, now 60, says it was actually her

architect husband who encouraged her to consider the idea of Granatus.

love to bake

and this space used to serve as my husband's office. After 1991, we realued that architecture was a lost art in Armenia. And because we had no plans of leaving Armenia we had to

AIM MARCH

2OO4

think of

a way

to survive.

"He wanted for me to consider the idea of a pastry shop. At the time it seemed absurd, that educated women who were pro-

means they have to raise their prices accordingly in order to stay in business. Still, the difficulties pale in comparison to the hardships

they endured especially between 1992 and 1994.Those were the years when there was no gas and no electricity - two very important utilities for a baker. Mirzoyan says they used kerosene if they had to, and the strong odor would sometimes saturate the cakes and pastrieg making them unsellable.The losses were constant but they persevered and always looked for more innovative alternatives. Mirzoyan's optimism combined with ele-

gant style and wonderful customer service have helped her survive. Many of her customers have been with her since Granatus first opened. If ever a customer has a complaint it won't go unheard. "This shop is our home and we treat it like so. And our customers know this." Granatus wasn't always a pastry shop. For a short two months in 1992 the store was divided between delicacies on one side, and souvenirs and personal collections people were trying to sell to survive. Mirzoyan says it was yet another way they attempted to help friends make ends meet. But in the course of two months, nothing sold but their pastrieg so it was decided that the little green shop would sell only sweet things. "Fourteen years ago, we never imagined we would be doing this for as long as we have. It started off as a temporary measure that has kept us going for all these years but our goal was to be able to return to our professions," she says with pride. Mirzoyan herself recently retired from her professorship at the State Polytechnic Institute and juggles her life as grandmother, as homemaker and as a businesswoman, although she doesn't like referring to Granatus as a business. but as her other home. She still has problems. It's not just the price of ingredients that is uncertain, but so is the taxman. But she's learned to persevere. Besides, remembering the really bad times 14 years ago, makes her ever more optimistic.

fessors and architects would consider baking and selling their goods. But we did, and we all found a way to support our families and remain here in Armenia."

There are various difficulties in managing a business in a country where the market price and quality of ingredients such as flour, milk, eggs and butter fluctuate. This in turn

AIM MARCH 2OO4

Granatus owner Gayane Mirzoyan. Photo by Karen Mirzoyan 29

tlina and Lilit Armenia's Winnirg Team in the Chess World

-rr

The emergence of Armenia as a women's chess powerhouse is somewhat surprising, and in fact quite sudden. Prior to the matu-

ration of the dynamic duo, Elina Danielian and Lilit Mkrtchian, Armenian women had rarely, if ever, contended among the chess elite. Yet today, the twin queens of women's chess are solidifying Armenia's place sideby-side with the traditionally strong men's teams at the crest of the highly competitive chess elite worldwide. !n a crilical showdown between two evenly matched leams, Armenia trounced the US 2.50.5 ending the US women's hopes ol medaling at the 2002 0lympiad in Bled, Slovenia. Facing the camera, left to right:

Elina Danielian,

Lilit Mkrtchian and Lilit Galojan. Photo by

Aram Haiian

Women and men have historically comin separate, parallel events in the world of chess. Lately, the top women have begun to compete at the highest levels alongside the best male players. Recently, Judit Polgar, the world's top woman player has cracked the top-10 rating list, the f,rst

peted

player upon her move to Yerevan has been in Armenian circles only by her

rivaled

teammate and friend Mkrtchian. Without hesitation, Danielian names former World Champion Tigran Petrosian as her favorite player of all time. She is similarly quick to

acknowledge

Hovik Khalikian, her first

time a woman has been a contender to

trainer in Armenia, as having had a profound

become world champion.

influence on her development. Danielian learned to play from her father at the age of five, and has twice won the world junior

Danielian has been Armenia's top woman player for the better part of 12 years. Which seems like a long time given that she is only 25 years old. Born in Baku to parents from Karabakh, the Danielian family moved to Yerevan in 1988 as the tinder-box of antiArmenian emotions was erupting in Baku, and as the Soviet experiment was beginning to collapse. Danielian's maturation as a chess AIM MARCH

2OO4

championship (under-14 years and under-16 years categories) Full ofenergy and creativity, and fearless to boot, Danielian has all the characteristics expected in a chess champion. Mkrtchian is the other half of Armenia's one-two punch. Just 21, she has become a

force on the international scene during the

Chrislmas Ornamenls A set of 10 hand crafted stained glass ornaments. A great gift for someone on your list who has everything. Perfect as a stocking stuffer or as a package topper.

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Pomegranate Goaster Set A symbol of Armenian hospitality, this charming set of six pomegranate-shaped coasters makes the perfect addition to your coffee table or outdoor patio. Functional as coasters, they also look beautiful lust standing in its own delicate, wrought-iron holder.

Size: Price:

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Ararat Sun Gatcher - Limited Edition A limited edition sun catcher in rich colors is inspired by the rich tapestry of the Armenian landscape and depicts the Ararat Valley using traditional symbols assembled in a pleasing, effective collage. 7.25" diameter Price: $100

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This elegant votive candle holder sits on a delicate iron stand and will add a warm glow to your home and make the perfect gift even for those who

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Armenian Flag Sun Gatcher Show your true colors and your pride in being Armenian with this stained glass sun catcher. The Red Blue 0range color scheme is obvious, and the sun only reaffirms the earthiness and beauty of this brilliant color combination. 7" x 4.75"

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Flowers Usher in the contemporary spirit of creative Armenia with an array of hand-cut and individually assembled blossoms. ln clear glass and hues of red, blue and yellow, each flower is perfectly crafted with a pair of leaves sitting on a finely twisted stem Display them

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My Limp Through Armenia It's the trip you wish you could take - the camera on your shoulder, the notepad in your bag, the spirit of adventure leading the way. This beautifully prepared book (printed in Armenia) presents Australian-

My Yerevan It's black and white, but full of spirit and soul. One hundred years of Yerevan history through full-page black and white photos. The rare and historic photos chosen from the State Film Library archives are combined with the familiar and modern photos of Max Svaslian to create an elegant, beautifully printed coffee table book. lf that weren't enough, the CD on the inside front cover features all (all!) the Yerevan songs you've ever heard. Listen to the CD as you turn the pages of this true art book and plan your next visit to this memorable

Armenian photographer Jacob Majarian's photos and diaries of his 1,000km walk, through Armenia and Karabakh, seeing the people and the scenery not as exotica, but as an extension of his heart and soul. The book is too good to keep to yourself. Published in Armenia

Size: Price: Armenia - The Calendar 2004 A great selection of photos representing Armenia from talented photographer Jacob Malarian's point of view. (Also see the next item - a book by Majarian). This beautiful calendar is designed and printed in Armenia and will bring you closer to Armenia, every month.

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Gouen Stony

last two years, having claimed the title of European individual vice-champion in 2Cf.2

to go with a gold medal as part of

the

Armenian women's team in 2003. Mkrtchian credits her grandfather for introducing her to the game. From the age of six, when the seed was planted in her, through 1993, she studied

with Norik Movsesian, a man she calls "both a great teacher and a wonderful human

lt 1992, she participated at a team event in Moscow where the four-person Armenian team performed exceptionally, being."

with Mkrtchian taking top-board honors for best result on the 4th board. She really began

to make

heads turn when she won the Armenian women's championship - at the age of 13. Mkrtchian speaks as if she has decades of wisdom behind her. "Just as the great legacy of Tigran Petrosian and the

current generation of grandmasters have had profound influences on us as aspiring players, so too, we hope to be good role models for the children of Armenia today," she says, sounding much older than her years. The women are modest, yet their results on the 64 squares speak for themselves.

The highlight to date for the two superstars occurred last fall in Bulgaria when the improbable came true. Four years after the

men's team became the European Chess Champions in Batumi, the women's team did the same. Until that moment, no country had

won both the men's as well as the women's

team European championship. The story behind this victory is itself somewhat remark-

able. Consider that because the athletic powers-that-be in Armenia could not come up with sufficient funds, the girls, together

with their

coach, grandmaster Arsen

Yeghiazarian, spent the night

in Moscow's

airport "sleeping" on plastic chairs, mere

As far as chess fans and non-fans alike

hours before the first round match of the championship. Not exactly ideal preparatory

are concerned, Mkrtchian's words seem to be especially poignant for Armenians worldwide: "Beyond any individual championship, greater than any personal accomplishment,

conditions, physically much less psychologi-

cally. Yet, all they did is win, casting

aside

traditional superpowers like Russia, Georgia, and the local Bulgarian favorites to emerge in flrst place by the end of the exhausting event. This is a testimony to their will and focus, defying logic and the odds to achieve against top-class competition.

the feeling of exhilaration that overcame me

assembled media rose to their

feet. I hope

that our nation can always be known for such successes and accomplishments." A professional PR firm attempting to brand Armenia as "The little nation that could" r couldn't have put it any better.

when they announced Armenia' as the champion was overwhelming. Watching the flag being hoisted as our anthem played, I felt honored and proud to represent

The Armenian leam beats the lranian team 2-1 at the 2002 0lympiad in Bled, Slovenia.

Armenia as the players, spectators,

Pholo by Aram Haiian

AIM MARCH 2OO4

and

tindinUMeaninu Diasporan Lawyer Sets Her Own Rules

'''''ffi'**.*,:'. -. * --"d6F*t*ffi.@"#*

There are onlv a handful of law firms

Armenia thai subscribe to western ethical standards, deal with international clients and provide the caliber of services that one may

expect

in the West. International Legal

Consultants (ILC) is one of them, established

in 1999 by Diasporan Edith Khachatourian. Born in Tehran. Iran. Khachatourian AIM MARCH

2OO4

moved to the US with her family in 1919 and graduated from Hastings College of the Law in San Francisco. In 1994, her planned oneyear move to Armenia turned into four years

as country director for the Armenian Assembly of America.

Following

a one-year position as an

international transactions group associate in New York, Khachatourian returned to Armenia in 1999.

At the end of a long

Khachatourian is tired, and a bit cynical. Many Diasporans who have moved to Armenia would agree with day,

Khachatourian when she says,

"If I

can

remember why I moved here, it would make my days more pleasant." But they would also agree with her in that she believes her work here is more meaningful. "When you work in a large law firm in the US, no work product that you produce has the same effect as it does in Armenia - we feel that with every litigation or privatization. we have the power to make a difference.The sense of satisfaction we get from being catalyst to change is much greater than just earning a large paycheck. On a daily basis, there is a passion involved in each task that I have not felt in the US."

And it is this passion that has set

Khachatourian apart from others in her field in Armenia, and earned her the nickname'pit bull.' Khachatourian is known as someone who fights hard for her clients, and wins.

ILC has a strong ethical stance on not ever paying bribes to influence the outcomes of its cases. She also drops clients who choose to pay judges bribes other parties. "But we have to go through the song and

dance of explaining we don't do that," says Khachatourian. From the start, ILC began with the 'no bribing' policy, which many predicted would bring an end to the flrm within a year. Yet, in the last flve yearq the flrm has enjoyed a very high rate of success in litigation, and has grown, boasting some of the largest companies in town (and out) as its clients Among them, Yerevan Hotel, USAID projects like IESC, local partner for Bearing Point (the company that was awarded the USAID contract for implementing reforms for Commercial and Law and Economic regulation), Midland Holdings (owner of the Armenian electricity distribution network), branches of IT companies from Silicon Valley, and Armenia's National Television and Radio.

ILC is also the local counsel for Marriott lnternational Inc.. and is affiliated with a number of US law firms that work in Russia but need representation in Armenia. "Of course, there is corruption. And yes, the legal system leaves a lot to be desired. But everything is not in the dire condition

perceived

by many outsiders,"

says

Khachatourian. "There are misconceptions as to how difficult it is to do business in Armenia. But it is not different than in other places. If you do your homework and create a good foundation for your business. Many times, people do business here in a way that

they wouldn't in any other country - some will invest money or enter into transactions with someone they just met,'just because they are Armenian'," she adds, as examples of why businesses face difficulties, or fail. But there are a set of challenges here as well. "There is a great resistance to change with the middle and lower level of government employees, By now, in the courts and at higher levels of government and in the ministries, everyone knows our ethics, and they respect it. But when someone is new, it is frustrating. Also, the laws here are not harmonized (one law does not coincide with the requirements of another). There are contradictions within the law. In the US, on the other hand, everything is so well established that the system functions without so many frustrations," says Khachatourian. Surprisingly enough, in such a heavily

male-dominated field, Khachatourian finds that being a woman is not a disadvantage. "Being a woman is not a handicap. It is kind of a novelty for government entities to deal with a woman. Once you establish yourself as a competent attorney or an equal, it's actually an advantage.As a woman, I get better treatment in that if they say absolutely 'no' to a man, to me, they try and explain it, and that gives me a chance to get in another

other hand, I often feel a tinge of resentment and envy in interactions because of the opportunities I have had and still have as a Diasporan."

"But things are changing for local women

as well," she

says. More and more, Khachatourian finds that her male clients or her counterparts bring their wives to social gatherings, perhaps due to her encouragement for them to do so. Or maybe "these Armenian counterparts have had enough interaction with the West. There are changes. Women are present more. At the same time I realize that I am not going to be able to make a social change. I realize I am getting into their domestic interactions when I ask for the wife to join." Khachatourian also finds that within the last 10 years, women have done a lot to develop and better themselves. On the other hand, she thinks there is stagnation in men. "In job applications and interviews, there are more women than men, and they are better prepared and more impressive. And I see women becoming more assertive, ambitious, successful." As for the role of women in government, "There should be more attention given to appointing women and encouraging women to leadership positions. The

of the Armenian Government is not reflective of the actual role of women in society. There are compe-

current composition

tent, accomplished women who are involved and they are not reflected in government," says Khachatourian. Some of those women Khachatourian has hired for her flrm or for her clients and finds them to be more capable, and adaptable to their positions than men, Although Khachatourian has no intentions to run for any government positions, she does contribute to it in her own ways,through

Pro Bono work she initiates by giving comments on certain drafts of legislation, or

when she flnds some endemic problem

way," she says.

And as to life for a Diasporan woman

in legislation.

living in Armenia, Khachatourian believes that no matter how long she lives here, she

will always be seen as a Diasporan. "If I get stopped by the police while driving, they are usually more lenient with me. On the

AIM MARCH 2OO4

Lawyer Edith Khachatourian ol lnternational Legal Gonsullants. Photo Courtesy ol ILC 37

$tony

lluhataEinl wants Yana Dresses a Yerevan Niche It seems La Bella Figura begins and ends in lzhunuPogosova's silop "Yana" on Abovian Street where the latest Italian trends can't be had for less than US $150 and may go upwards of $300 for some pieces.

Pogosova's says she has

no problems

finding customers as she politely turns away someone from a local publication soliciting advertising. "My customers know where I am. They know what I have. I don't need to advertise." At least once a month, except for January and August, Pogosova makes a trip to Italy where she purchases hot new pieces for the rich Armenian women who are the wives,

of the most wealthy men in Yerevan. Pogosova is herself well dressed and groomed. "I can't sell what I have if I don't look good myself. I am my best advertisement, the best mannequin in this shop," she says as she points to her outfit with a sweep of her hand as if it had gone unnoticed. "I've always enjoyed dressing well myself. In the beginning I bought my merchandise from people who would bring me items from Europe. Then I realized I had to do this myself in order to get exactly what I want." Pogosova opened Yana in 1995 after she and husband of 32 years returned from a short stay in Moscow with their two sons who are 31 and 27 now. "We made some money daughters-in-law and lovers

while we were

in Russia and when we

returned we realized that we had to do something and it was actually my son's idea to open the shop." Today, Pogosova says she has the upper hand in the city when it comes to doing business in women's clothing.

"l'm obviously a woman. I know what women want because I talk to my customers.

I know what looks good and what doesn't. I have an approach to fashion that the other stores don't have, because mostly they are run by men with big bellies who don't have the slightest clue as to what fashion means. I see some of them every once in a while in Italy and they walk into a warehouse and point to a rack and say they'll take the whole lot of something or they go to Turkey and buy cheaply-made knock-offs with Made in Italy 38

labels and sell them here. They don't have a

more to this than just bringing containers full of clothes. I have business because my clients trust my taste." Pogosova is Georgian by birth. She came to Armenia to study child development. After university she got married and stayed. She's been in Armenia ever since. clue. There's

Pogosova is a savvy businesswoman always and foremost. She takes a call from someone who is going to give her a good exchange rate on the Euro as she's planning her next trip to Italy. She seems pleased. "The elite, privileged class of the city shop here.They come here and know that they will be able to find exactly what they want. To get that one of a kind special outflt to wear to an official event or wedding and not worry that someone else will be wearing the same outfit. If they can't find it, I'll bring them something new in another 20 days and most often they would rather wait and buy something from me," Pogosova says with confldence. "lt's no accident that I've been around since 1995 and have been able to sustain my business. I understand the women of this city and know what sells." Though she has no plans for expanding her store, since as she says, bigger is not always better. she is planning to open a similar shop in Moscow. "I love this business. I love the process of going from warehouse to warehouse and shopping for my clients and coming back to Yerevan and setting up my shop, preparing for my clients." She opens up an address book with pages and pages of names and phone numbers. "You probably had no idea there were so many rich women in Yerevan, did you? But these are my clients and when I come back from my trip I will call them and each one will come and buy something." Italian fashion is what she sells. She loves

traveling back and forth to Italy. But she wouldn't live there. "In Armenia my business is my own. I am unique in my country. What would I do in Italy? Work for someone else? No. I can take care of myself here. Besides this would not interest me in Italy. These clothes would not have the same meaning for me there. Here I can only get stronger, AIM MARCH

2OO4

anywhere else

would have to start from

the bottom."

business since 1995 means that

Pogosova survived the hardest and economi-

cally most challenging years in the country. She's deflnitely doing something right in a

they will have the power to sustain the way Pogosova has been able to keep Yana afloat

a girl wants in this city.

city where women's apparel shops

is to be

Yana Boulique owner Zhana Pogosova. Photo by Karen Mirzoyan

are

popping up literally at every turn. Whether

seen. But one thing's for certain, this business-savvy woman knows what

AIM MARCH

2OO4

The RiUltt huneilient$ A Rare Approach to Customer

Service

lot from

nush and Tumanian go together. No. not

Htne

poem-turned-opera- *r,tten Dy Hovannes Tumanian. This Anush is a small grocery store on Tumanian Street, in central Yerevan. Called Anush Gastronome. it's been a landmark at the same location since 1938. Named after Tirmanian's heroine, it's just a few minutes walk from the author's

she's a tough boss and expects a

those who work for her but she also believes she's fair and makes concessions when necessary. But, work is work and here, she says, there's no room for personal problems and conflicts which she expects to be left at home when working. After the death of her husband in 1974

home-museum.

More than half a century later, Anush is transformed into a little, modern supermarket. Owner Esfira Hazibabian proudly tells the history of the store she's owned since 1996. "I didn't change the name when I bought

it. It's always been Anush, it's been a landmark on this street since it first opened, and people know it."

It's not a supermarket by western standardsThere aren't dozens of isles and bright lights. But Anush definitely flts the Armenian

- with over 6000 items in a store much larger than most. It's one-stop-shopping with well-stocked shelves that hold everydescription

thing from dairy to coffee to chocolate to cleaning supplies. Some 20 employees dressed in smocks work the counters and the floor. Hazibabian runs a tight ship and it shows. She arrives every morning before nine, and expects her employees to do the same. Hazibabian is as tough as businesswomen get. Working in this field just short of 30 years she knows what she's doing and subscribing to the idea that "the customer is always right" she says keeps her customers coming back. She believes wholeheartedly in the idea

that good customer service is essential for business. Daily meetings before opening the store help assure that all issues and concerns

from the previous night are ironed out and service with a smile will be practiced with each sale.

"My store is a supermarket. My

cus-

tomers can find everything they need in one place. I have been able to win the hearts of my customers with the services that I am able to provide. Everything here is fresh and my customer service is excellent. I wouldn't be in business if I weren't able to provide these things." Of her 20 employees 18 are women, most young. Some are students. She admits that

AIM MARCH

2OO4

when she was left with two small children to support she says she knew she had to pull herself together quickly. "When I got married I was very young and my husband didn't want me to study or work. He wanted a stayat-home wife who would raise his children. And he was a good husband, he provided well for us.When he died suddenlv of a heart

attack I couldn't afford the luxury of staying at home anymore."

She never remarried and

was soon

after her husband's death that she went back to school and studied accounting and management. ln 1976, after she graduated she went to work at Store Number 792 on Mashtots Street which is now known as SAS

grocery store equally deserving of supermarket status. A decade later. she was transferred to Anush where she worked as a manager until the collapse of the old regime. She continued to work there reporting to government bodies until she was able to privatize it in May 1996. Today this supermarket is bustling with

- another

activity and there's no trace of the old anywhere in sight. "Before I privatized the store, it was falling apart. Everything needed to be changed from the windows to the refrigerators. I wanted to give it a fresh look and bring it up to modern standards and it's slowly paying off. The original Anush was even bigger. Pizza di Roma next door was also apart of the store but I realized that I couldn't manage all of that. I had to keep only what I could afford and it was the right decision." In addition, Hazibabian has opened Anush Children's Clothing Store adjacent to her supermarket.

60. Hazibabian shows no sign of slow-

ing down. In the store from the opening to the close of the business day, she's got her hands full dealing with the daily upkeep of the business. What takes up most of her time, though, is keeping up with the changing tax laws that affect small businesses such as hers. Knowing

Armenia's tax laws is the difference between survival and loss she says. "I have to know the laws better than the inspectors and tax collectors in order to be able to protect myself. Women have to work much harder at protecting themselves in this country when it comes to business because we can't play the same games that the men can afford to play." It's clear she's not afraid of the tax man. She can talk for hours - and she does - about all that's wrong with a system that taxes and pursues small businesses and gives kickbacks to big ones. "l'm not running away from the taxes or laws. I gladly pay my share, but these small businesses can not fix the national budget.

We alone can't be responsible for that. Unfortunately we are the ones that they focus on."

But she's optimistic. "I feel the future is good," she says And she's happy that women are becoming bolder and attempting to open businesses "Things are definitely looking up and women are being respected more for being able to participate in the business world," Hazibabian says. And she ought to

know. r

Anush Gastronome owner Eslira Hazibabian. Photo by Mkhitar Khachatrian

AIM MARCH 2OO4

A Ineasure Ghe$t The Business of Arts and Crafts

%W J

*! 4:

ry #:

\III

NIARCH 2(X){

ayat Nova Street is lined with shops of all

Droa,

from clothing boutiques to

cafes.

electronics and groceries. Between them all is Lilik Melkonian's Lili Souvenirs, a treasure chest full of beautiful bags made of carpets, rolls of rugs, artifacts, jewelry, ashtrays and needlework doilies. Melkonian, 49, is a folk artist who has

for the past 30 years. "During Soviet times, folk artists had their

practiced her craft

by herself since he was three years old. She shrugs her shoulders. This is just one other fact of life she's had to accept along with the other hardships she's endured. Varoujan is currently in college and helps her out in the shop in his spare time.

Melkonian looks tired and

stressed.

There's a repairman in her shop attempting to fix one of her sewing machines, which is an essential part of her work. She's almost as knowledgeable about the machine as the repairman is. She needs a new part before the machine will work again. Yet another

own niche, and our work was displayed in art salons which sold our products because we were not allowed to sell them ourselves. I do needlework, carpet weaving, macram6 and," she trails off, afraid of sounding like she's talking about herself. It's obvious she remembers the old days with pleasure, especially the privilege of participating in exhibitions. Melkonian studied film and photography, but for most of her life, she's worked at creating folk art. After independence when she lost her job working for a government run organization - like so many others she had to flnd a way to earn a living. She started selling her handiwork at Vernissage, the weekend art and flea market, and did so for many years until she decided to open her shop last May. It's winter now and the tourists who regularly frequent her shop are not in town.

complain about her work or the challenges but conversation after conversation proves she's lost faith in the country, its people and the systems that govern it. She especially feels these hardships as a single mother trying to make a living. "I love my country. I can't imagine living anywhere else or I would have left long ago. But it's every man for himself in this country. There are hardships in every country. But people stay and support their the country because there is a belief in the system, a trust in things being better in the future. I don't see that here, especially as a woman in

Most of the items here can be found

my position, who doesn't have

Vernissage without much of a price difference. For those who miss Vernissage or don't want to deal with the crowds she's the one to go to. Her shop is smartly outfitted and wellstocked, but that's clearly not enough. "This isn't a business. A business is supposed to make money - not barely survive. I depend on the tourists. This city isn't interested in a shop like this. Across the street is a khachapuri shop (a Georgian style cheese turnover) and they do good business. People laugh at me and say that it's not a good idea to have a shop like this on this street but this is what I do." Property on Sayat Nova is prime real estate. Many would no doubt like to get her space, but Melkonian has no plans for selling or moving. Melkonian and 17-year-old son Varoujan live in the back of the store that once used to be their apartment. She's raised Varoujan AIM MARCH

2OO4

expense, yet another problem

to start off

the day. She's a hardworking woman who doesn't

someone

backing her." She talks about obstacles she encountered when she attempted to open her shop, "They claimed that Sayat Nova is a very

important street and that a souvenir shop like mine was not allowed, I asked them, you can have bordellos and strip clubs and bars but not a place where a single woman and her child can create a business around the arts?" she remembers with a sense of triumph. She was able to do what she needed. But the hardships persist. So does she. r

Lili Souvenir owner Lilik Melkonian. Photo by

Mkhitar Khachatrian

$tony

Gomlont and $oul Sense of Sisterhood Sells this Salon

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clicnts. Karinc. u lro rulrs a snrall construction busi ncss. installccl it. Painted an unaroitlulrlc grccn color. thc

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\\omcn gather sinrLrltlneousl\i In this snrirll slilon lhat's opcn onlv hctr'"ccn thc hours ol' S:.ll tlttn anrl lyr;11. llt!'rr"\ t'l(r rirn lrnn,,ttn.'inrl thc business tuking pllcc irtside. Wonrcn ol all ages come in onc ultcr another to havc thcir' Hairstylisl Marine Ter Mafl irossian. Photo by Mkhitar Khachatrian

hair styled, cut or dyed, or their nails immaculately manicured. No one comes in for pedicures. There's a social stigma associated with that service. "What will the other clients think?" is the odd-sounding excuse. It's a modest salon and Ter Martirossian is the owner and the only stylist there. Inside, the neighborhood dog, Mosha is sleeping on the floor near a heater. She's just given birth to a litter and Ter Martirossian and the manicurist, Marine Mirzoyan are helping her recover. The two Marines have built a relationship with each other and with their clients that can only be described as a sisterhood. The dog comes to eat and rest and stays in

for most of the winter, no matter which of their clients complain. In between manicuring and dying hair and comparing notes on children's exams, Mirzoyan checks on Mosha and reports on her recovery to one and all. The customers of the day include a doctor, an executive assistant at the cognac factory, a sociologist who runs a women's organization, a woman who works for some govemment agency, an artist and a television broadcaster, as well as the wives and daughters of former and current government ministers. All take their turns with both Marines. Ter Martirossian is a stylish woman, always elegantly and professionally dressed, with beautiful long reddish hair. She's been married for 23 years and is the mother of two grown children - a 21-year-old son and an 18year-old daughter. Her husband is a professor of economics at Yerevan State University. He runs the business when she travels to the US to visit her family. He even blow dries customers'hair. Ter Martirossian wasn't always a hairdresser. She's a graduate of the Polytechnic Institute in Yerevan with a degree in electrical engineering. After she married, it was her mother-in-law who had worked as a hairdresser for many years, who taught her how to cut and color hair. From 1988 to 1994 she worked with her mother-in-law in the same salon. When her mother-in-law left for the US in 1994, she took over the business. Now, seven years on her own, she's built a business around a tribe of women who both respect and couldn't do without her.

Both her family and her husband's family are in the US now, where she goes frequently to visit. While there. she attends trade shows and learns new techniques and trends from friends who are also hairdressers.

Her unique approach to her work

has

helped her create a niche in Yerevan where salons can be found literally on every corner. She's accomplished enough that in 2000 she was chosen by Wella as one of the top 10 stylists in Armenia and was invited to Germany for a week-long completely paid training session. "There are other salons in this city which are far more chic than this. and far more com-

fortable and luxurious. Here everything is basic and simple but my customers are always happy with my work and the atmosphere, which is real and down to earth. And

this is what's important to them," she says. And indeed no one seems to mind that there isn't a proper salon chair for washing hair. The clients sit on plastic lawn chairs, or stand and lean into the sink.

Instead, she provides her clients with a feeling of familiarity. She knows exactly which color to mix for which client. She knows each one as she would know a friend and they talk about family and health and life as if they are at home. Even the clients know one another. They bring with them chocolates and homemade desserts and have coffee as they wait their turns. There's nothing

stuffy or pretentious and everything from recipes to diets to health are discussed. But these are professional women. They also discuss Putin his looks, his policies.

They talk about the tax man, and how they each deal with him. They compare notes on college entrance exams and the standards of the different departments. She describes her clients as middle class and above.They'd have to be to spend about $3 for styling, sometimes twice a week. "I have customers who save up to come to me. I recently had to raise my prices a little and it's one of the most difficult things I've had to do, especially when I had to pass it on to my old customers. But because my costs are rising I can't afford to keep the same rates." The women who wander in from 8:30 to 10

AIM MARCH

2OO4

each morning of the week are nearly all profes-

sional, working women. On birthdayg they bring cake. On women's day, they bring flowers Ter Martirosian believes her clients come

to her not only because they like the work but also because at her salon they don't have

have their guard up, they don't have

to perform. "My customers know what chic is, but they are willing to compromise comfort for quality. And also because in their work and with the outside world they have to be very careful with how they keep themselves. Here they can just be themselves, be comfortable." Her customers are only slightly laughing when they say that the salon has become a club, a sort of support group and maybe she should register it as such. The warm atmosphere and banter begins with the two Marines. Ter Martirossian and Mirzoyan knew one another years before Mirzoyan came to work at the salon. She is a fantastic manicurist - clean and fast. The two have very different personalities, but work together effortlessly. Mirzoyan is animated and funn.v. Ter Martirossian plays straight man to Mirzoyan's joking, teasing. She does-

n't pay rent but in

exchange helps out

between manicures by mixing hair color, and assisting as much as she can. Ter Martirossian juggles clients one after another from opening till closing. Call after call, she doesn't tum anyone away nor does she write anything down. instead she remembers every appointment. Clients are accustomed to making room and time for each other.They're willing to cede their place in line to someone who's got to get to work earlier.

For Ter Martirossian, all her clients are equal no matter their status or title or wealth, and she treats every one of them with the same graciousness. "That's why they keep

coming back and they are all very good to one another. I've had clients who don't come back and I think that's because they aren't able to reciprocate what we've been able to establish here, and I don't have any problems with that." She stops to make sure Mosha is comfortable and out of the way, as she continues. r

Economy

Eontiruing A Uital Role Turning Remittances into Investment 3*.^A-r. arr

te-

"lliasoora" is one o[ the new

llr-ong

buzzwords

governmenrs. rounciatrons ano

multilateral institutions across the world these days. And, in Armenia, of course. This is because migrant remittances have boomed since the 1990s, lifting entire countries out of poverty in the process. Tiaditionally, those who leave their homes and countries and migrate in search of jobs and income send a good part of their earnings back home. These are called remittances.

According to the lMF. these remittances to nations as diverse as Armenia, Mexico, India,

Albania and Tonga amounted globally to nearly US $80 billion in 2002, double the total amount of global foreign aid provided in the same year. As Armenians know well, these transfers can be crucial in providing humani-

tarian assistance, alleviating poverty and ensuring a basic standard of living for the local population. Some Diasporas, however, have moved to the next level, beyond providing immediate assistance

aunts, uncles, brothers or

In a country like Armenia, even if these flows are not large by global standards, they can represent a massive and permanent boost for the economy. Moreover, by improving the local workforce's business skills and building relationships between local and

friends. They have found ways to efflciently

international companies, diasporan market

exploit their collective flnancial, intellectual and technological resources to dynamically promote the long-term economic growth of their home countries and not just to individual households. Evidence based on the successful Chinese and Israeli diasporas shows that diasporan investors - often the first movers into emerging markets in their home

leaders can help kick-start native economies like Armenia's - suffering from high uncertainty and excessive economic risks. So, the key economic lesson is this: One way or another, a diaspora sends money back to the home country. But investments are beC

country

can radically change market expec-

tations and stimulate Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) inflows. AIM MARCH

2OO4

ter than remittances Look at the math: each $1 ofinvestment has a greater long-term effect on the economy - a larger "multiplier effect"

in economists' jargon

- than $1 of remittances. In Armenia, the Diaspora is by far the

largest "international donor." It provides more than 10 percent of GDP (about $200 million) in remittances and grants annually -

nearly 50 percent

of the government's

annual budget.

So, the Armenian Diaspora has the means to play this vital role. As the Poverty Reduction Strategy Paper of 2003 stressed. achieving sustainable, broad-based economic growth, (the "surest way of reducing widespread poverty"). is now the Government's

key economic policy priority until 2015. Lev Freinkman. an economist with the

in 2002 that the Armenian Diaspora has been "greatly under-utilized as a source of investment." World Bank wrote

For example during 1995-99 years, total FDI per capita into Armenia was below $30, substantially less than Lithuania's ($100) and Estonia's ($200). By contrast, humanitarian aid and private transfers from the Armenian Diaspora totaled $55 per capita on average during this period. (No one will argue about

the impact of Kerkorian's donation on the economic growth. Lincy was responsible for at least half of the GDP growth according to most estimates.)

With Armenia boasting the best macroeco-

nomic perfbrmance of the former Soviet Union (FSU) in recent years (12.9 percent GDP growth and 3.5 percent inflation in 2m2) FDI has increased significantly since

AIM MARCH 2OO4

4 percent of GDP This is terrific, but still average by

1999 and was roughly

2003.

FSU standards.

GDP growth is high because of the Diaspora's input. Now, someone has to find a way to turn that Diaspora contribution into investment, not donation, so that the growth is sustained.

prime example ol Diaspora inveslmenl, lormerly Holel Armenia is now Armenia Maniotl Holel. This page: New ground service equipmenl al Zvailnots Airpoil is the result ol investmenl by Argentinian Eduardo Eurnekian. Opposite page: A

Photos by Photolure

Gonnections

Ilane to llneam The Armenia 2020 Project Qome 200 people gathered in Marriott

DArmenia Hotel's Tigran Mets hall to view one power point presentation after another. Two translators were simultaneously switching from Armenian to Russian to English to transmit the thoughts of some of Europe's and Russia's top economists and social planners. The trilingual audience - made up of former and current ministers, bankers, profes-

sors. heads

international missions in

Armenia, and active Diasporans - was completely engaged. Many had been engaged for over 18 months. This was Armenia 2020's concluding

the

Chairman

of the Armenia 2020

Coordination Board, Ruben Vardanian, the Project was a "perfect opportunity to come

up with a unique product: scenarios for Armenia for the coming 20 years." Why 2020? As Noubar Afeyan, a member of the Coordination Board and businessman from the US noted, the date is close enough that those alive today will live to see and enjoy it, but far enough that there is indeed time to effectively plan and make changes. The question was relatively easy. The answers were varied. Economists and sociologists worked together to paint various sce-

FIVE QUESTIONS TO EACH OF YOU: CAN YOU LOOK AT YOURSELF lN THE MIRRORAND AGREE WITH THE FOLLOWING STATEMENTS? ! have a c lcar

vlslon for Arnnnia ln 2020

I can tell a compelling story aboutthe need for change and the ioumey ahead

I underctand lfre sacriflces that will need to be made and the disruption my life may suffer

nomic isolation.

The Armenia 2020 leadership did not propose or choose a speciflc single scenario. Rather the organizers'main goal was for the Project's results and flndings to stimulate an open and informed public discussion and help build a consensus about Armenia's future. "Having a shared vision of where you want to go is vital and it was very interesting to see how different people have different

views on Armenia's future," remarked Roger Robinson, World Bank Country Manager in Armenia who attended the Yerevan conference. To achieve this goal, Armenia 2020 has undertaken a concerted media and communications campaign both in Armenia and in the Diaspora to promote its work and ideas to the widest audience possible. This outreach, they hope, will also generate greater interest, particularly in the Diaspora, to fund and embark on other original initiatives and pilot schemes relating to Armenia. An open forum discussing this outlook and offlcial government analysis has begun on www. armeniadiaspora.com. Scenario-planning exercises of this sort are not new and many countries including Japan,

Ireland, and Russia have undertaken them ForArmenia however,

successfully in the past.

I have committed, capable and aligned partners for change

! will personally fight to avoid the stagnation

conference. For nearly two years, Armenia 2020 (www.Armenia2020.org), a non-proflt, non-governmental international organization had solicited the opinions of 300 distin-

guished professionals, researchers

and experts, the vast majority of them Armenians from both Armenia and the Diaspora, to give

their time and efforts voluntarily to "the Project", to ask and consider what Armenia might look like in the year2020.According to

narios which aimed to present a coherent and pragmatic idea of Armenia's long-run potential in the face of uncertainty, describing different long-term development models for the nation based on its actions and responses to future national and global challengeg barriers and opportunities. The four scenarios were (in no particular order): entry into the European Union (EU) in2O20; full alignment with Russia; self-driv-

en evolution into an independent regional Above: From lhe Armenia 2020 website. 0pposite page: The statue ol Mother Armenia. Photo by

Phololure

market leader (like Singapore); or, the Balkanization of the South Caucasus with Armenia descending into political and ecoAIM MARCH 2OO4

this initiative was novel in many ways.

First, this was the flrst holistic development strategy for the country, and it was undertaken by an organization fully independent from the government and the international donor agencies. Funded by the organizers and other private donations, and with no political agenda, Armenia 2020 provided, in the words of one public official, "an original, alternative, more private-sector perspective on key public policy questions." This differing perspective, combined with the employment of world+lass experts such as

the management consultancy McKinsey & Company, also ensured that the Project's analysis was sound. Its economic and private sector development strategies were particularly well-received in govemment circles Minister

of Tiade and Economic Development Karen Chshmaritian has even suggested that the Government and Armenia 2020 look to inte-

grate their respective economic policy initiatives in the future. Minister of Foreign Affairs Vartan Oskanian welcomed the initiative. and stressed the importance of combining public and private, Diaspora and Armenia resources and perspectives.

ffi,+,

It was not just the process that set Armenia 2020 apart. but thc content ol its

ru*

analysis, too. was sobering. For cxample. one

of their studies by McKinsey & Company suggested that the present extraordinary GDP growth rates (14 percent in 2003) are unsustainable but that even if they were. Armenia by 2020 would still not have the level of income of the poorest Eastern European countries entering the

this

fr ft

May. There are several messages here. One is

that although the Government's official longterm policy goal is EU membership. the country, at present, is not on a track that clearly leads to this destination. The other message is that growth, even high growth. is not sufficient. There needs to be targeted. planned, facilitated growth in particular sectors which offer the greatest advantages. An informal vote amongst the Armenia 2020 participants in May 2fi)3 showed that although the EU was considered by far the most desirable scenario for Armenia, it was also seen as the most improbable. It is difficult to imagine that even a public awareness campaign can foster a grassroots constituency that will pressure the Government into undertak-

ing more radical political and economic reforms required to facilitate the necessary economic growth to reach EU levels by 2020. Perhaps it is what Arsen Ghazarian, Chairman of the Union of Armenian Businessmen noted, the Armenia 2020 project's ability "to consolidate the potential of Armenia proper and that of Armenian Diaspora" that will be able to bring this kind of pressure. The commitment and organized cooperation of accomplished Armenians from all over the world with very diverse expertise, backgrounds and visions - from businessmen to religious figures, academics to chess players - Armenia 2020 set a vital precedent for mobilizing Armenia's muchdiscussed but largely unexploited greatest

uffi;

natural resource: its people.

AIM MARCH 2OO4

Connections

Anmenia Reuisitcil Avakian Shoots for l,{ational Geographic Magazine (lqueezed between an article on China, and Danothe, on Harp Seals. the March 2004 issue of National Geographic Mag,azine (lfGW has an article entitled The Rehirth of Armenia.

Photographer Alexandra Avakian made four trips to Armenia over four years. After her third trip, NGM assigned writer Frank Viviano to write the text. The result is a philosophical look at a people and a country.This is the first time NG M has covered Armenians in

more than a dozen years. There was an earthquake-related article also shot by Avakian. Before that, it was the 1978 article on Armenia and Armenians - famous for its Kiss-Me-l'mArmenian t-shirt wearing picnic-goers. Avakian's photos dominate the 22-page article. Born in 1960 in Manhattan. New

York, Avakian grew up in New York and Malibu where {rlm and theater were part of everyday life. Her father, Aram Avakian was a film editor and director and her mother

AIM MARCH 2OO4

Dorothy Tiistan a stage and screen actress.

Her stepfather John Hancock was also a director. Avakian started taking pictures around the age of 10 and was in the darkroom by 14. "My father Aram taught me early on to see and tell stories in pictures and guided me

in this till his death in

1987." Avakian received a Bachelor's in Arts from Sarah Lawrence College in 1983, and studied Art

History in the SLC Florence, Italy program.

She studied photography at the New School and the International Center of Photography in New York City.

Avakian's works have been published in most mainstream magazines in the US and Western Europe. Since 1984, her photos have appeared in NGM, Nawral History,Time, Lrfe, Newsweek, Washington Post Magazine, New YorkTimes Magazine, Liberation, Paris Match, Stern, GEO, and the London Sunday Times Magazine. She's covered Haiti's uprisings of

1986

to 1987; the Palestinian Intifada 1988 to

1996;

Khomeini's funeral in

1989; the

fall of the

Berlin Wall and the Velvet Revolution of Czechoslovakia 1981 Armenian from 1988 to 1994: the fall of the Soviet Union and the independence movements or civil wars in the

Baltics, Georgia, Armenia, Uzbekistan, Thjikistan, Moscow 1988 to 1992;the Somali and Sudanese famines 1992 to 1993; reform and daily life in Iran 1998 to 1999;Muslim life in America post September 11.

AIM MARCH 2OO4

Captions and photos as they appear in ff6M March 2004:Opposite page: Each day in Yerevan,

Armenia's capital, locals can gaze at Mount Ararat but can't g0 there. Since 1920 Turks have where the Bible controlled this national icon on the other side says Noah's atk came lo rest 0f a border ollicially closed to Armenians. This page: Dancing near Khor Virap Monastery, Celia Kahveiian celebrates the 1,7Otlth anniver' sary 0l lhe baptism ol King Tiridates lll. With the king's conversion lrom paganism, Armenia became the world's lirst Ghristian nation.

Gonnections

Avakian is married to a political scientist and has a three-year-old son. They live in Washington, DC.

How did you get this assignment? Did you pitch the story lo NGM? Yes. I did. The first time I pitched it was back in 1996 around the time I first started working for the 1VGM. They accepted a proposal in 2001. The fact that you're Armenian helped the story or not?

I am half Armenian and I think it helped because I arrived with deep knowledge of who Armenians are as a people. I had also been to Armenia about a dozen times, beginning with the earthquake.for Life 14agaz,ine. I left my family while vacationing on the Nile to get to Armenia as fast as I could. As you know it was still the Cold War, and never did someday.

I imagine I would be in Armenia was a terrible way to see the

country, so utterly heartbroken as everyone living in cars waiting for relatives to be unearthcd. After

was. Funerals. Coflins. Survivors

AIM MARCH

2OO4

that I based myself in Moscow,working mostly for TI M E Magazine, documenting the end of the USSR. I covered Armenia as much as possible, including the war

in Karabakh on

three of those trips.

NGM stories are photo driven. Did the writer have a different take from yours? The writer, Frank Viviano, tapped into the soul of Armenians in a very deep way. If you read the piece you cannot help but be struck by this. I was so happy with his work. I felt lucky to be paired with him.

Is your vision of Armenia different from

for being

there. NGM gives tremendous think we photographers and editors sometimes just agonize

space to photo stories, but I

the editors'?

At llGM,

photographers must come to the table with real knowledge of their subject. This is a prerequisite whether the country is new to them or not. Research is key. So

is frequent and deep communication with

over a picture not being in the mix.That's just the way we are.

still suffer over pictures

missed 20

How much input did you have with what ended up on the pages? It really is a collaborative effort, There is an understanding before we go off to work as to what we are going to cover and ihe gener-

al feeling of the

What was your favorite shot? Did it make the final cut? In some ways my favorite shot is of Ararat, on the last page. I hope that Armenians and non-Armenians understand the sense of longing for a historically Armenian place across a border that cannot be crossed, the fire being the barrier here, the symbolic element of all that Armenians have suffered.

approach. The planning

stage, the creation of a framework. is very strong. Then you do your best, knock yourself out, always embracing the magic. the serendipity, and allowing that to play into the

story. In editing, you put forward what is important visually and content-wise, and you have solid reasons for those choices.

Is the final cut different than what you might have done? I think there are sometimes pictures one is attached to which don't make it because another photo has strong editorial reasons

tion among sources.Things that were planned wouldn't happen, or would happen at a different time, making it difficult to nail them down at times.

years ago!

one's editors. So there is a kind of trust that

exists between us and the editors which is really remarkable.This does not exist at other magazines where I have worked.

During these more recent trips I was frustrated by a diff,culty in the flow of informa-

VYhat does it take to get a shot? The shot of Ararat for example. In shooting Ararat I was extremely conscious of avoiding the clich6 shots. I just did not want to show Ararat again with Khor Virap in front of it, for example. Yes, that image says something important about Armenian history but it has been seen too many times and there are other things to say that are important. In this particular case of the Ararat picture, I was rushing from the

Was access a problem? Did the famous l{.rmenian hospitality' work in your favor

or against?

Captions and photos as they appear in

Access was no problem. The hospitality was amazing as always.

thing

I will always remember

was in

Karabakh, in one of the worst times of the war, a family tried their best to force their last egg on me when I visited them in their bomb shelter. On an everyday level, families who invite you to dinner always think you are nuts when you keep shooting and won't sit down and eat. That is true in many places in the world.

AIM MARCH

2OO4

ff6M

March

Ailhur Karapetian brews collee outside his home - a prelab sheltel

2004: 0pposite page:

next to a construction site - belore his daughter goes to school. Her city, Gyumri, is still crippled lrom the 1988 eaflhquake lhat lelt 500,000 homeless. This page: Letting her imagination - and scissors - run wild lo craft this model's wedding dress, Liana Sargsian is one ol the young Armenians challenging tradilion. "Fashion," she says, "is a world where I can create boundlessly." 53

Connections

soutlt ol thc counlrv likc ir critzr pcrson. hlir ing plrrrrnccl this shot in rnl' rnincl rr e ll in rurlr rrncc. irncl lrrrivctl just in tinrc! l-hat sairl. I knou ihlt il' l hail rrrlivcrl lltc. I u,oulcl huic gonc rgain until I nltilcrl thc picturc.

[ ]suallv rrith lrssignnre nls. \()Lt nlrv hlrvc sccrt this or thirt I)llrt ()l ir c()r.ln1r\''s histolr'. but to bc hal1 ,\rnrcnilrn. thcn tr) cxpclicncc it lll that is ll hrrt scls this ()ltc u|ltr[ lirl nte

ll'hat is the one thing rou x'ill renrenrhcr ahout this assignnrent \ears dunn the line? 'l'he tinrc spcnt jusl he ing in ,.\rnrcnilr u lrs such a prcciorrs thing 1o r.nc. So nrrurr things huve bccn urtlirrgcttrrhic for ntc. I hoPc I u ill rtluavs lintl \\itvs t() go back. I

I think I ulso rnin unclcrstanri sonrcthing ol ,\rrrcnia's Sovie t lristorv in that rni qllrnchuollrcr- \lanushuk ,,\rctisirrn. rvho rvlrs liont'lhilisi. krsi hcr cntire llnrilv in Stllin's purgcs. living ull hcr lilc u ith llrlr1 plrin. (\lr gllinrlllthe r' \'lesnrp Alakilrrr rilrs lirnr nolthutst Ilrn.)

Alexandra Avakian al the lrontline in Nagorno Karabakh. The baby hawk on her head was an 0rphan and was kept, fed, and nursed back l0 health by the soldiers. Photo iry Parik Nazarian

por

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www. armeniaforeignministry. am

click on e-visa, provide credit card and passport information, and you'll receive a visa online in just 48 hours, without leaving your home.

Gonnections

Ihe Nanck Millennium Having the Resilience to Endure TOM SAMUELIAN I By lnvitation

In 2003 the Narek Millennium came and lpassed. How are Armenians different from ayear ago? From Lfi)0 years ago? A thousand years ago, on the south-east shore of Lake Van, within eyeshot of the newly built Cathedral of Aghtamar, a monk named Gregory wrote an inspirational book addressed to all nations for all generations In 1003 this was an acceptable aspiration for an Armenian saint, an indication of the place and role of the Armenian nation and church in the world of those times. Reflecting on the Narek Millennium should remind Armenians of that role, how and why it was achieved, and

how and why it evolved into Armenians' current national mentality and trajectory. For Saint Gregory of Narek, the Armenian Church and nation are the keepers of a precious tradition. He understood the Armenian Nation as the steward of the faith brought to Armenia directly by two of Christ's apostles, Saints Thaddeus

and Bartholomew, and firmly rooted in Armenians' national character by Saint Gregory the Illuminator. It is a special mission to be the people of the land of Ararat

and Etchmiadzin, "the Bethlehem of the Armenian soul," as Karekin II, Catholicos AIM MARCH

2OO4

of All

Armenians, called

it in his 2003

Christmas message.

Gregory means "awake, vigilant," the of all people of faith and hope, who await a better future. Like the patron saint, Armenians are an expectant people. And state

that expectation reaches its height in times of rebirth and regeneration, Iike those we are privileged to be living today.

Saint Gregory of Narek lived in one of those rare timeg the lull after the storm of

Byzantine and Arab conquests, "a tranquil interlude," like today. He seems to have understood that peace-

rrMay this book be recited to the ears ol generations, and may it be preached

to all people.

u Prayer 88b ol Ihe Narek

Armenians'times today are in many ways

like his times a thousand years ago: amidst the clash of empires, a tranquil interlude brimming with resources to rebuild Armenia. Perhaps for the flrst time in a thousand years Armenians are again poised to re-"cognize" their place in the family of nations and

in Christendom. Saint Gregory of Narek is the Armenian to restoration and reinvention. While the Narek has numerous mystical moments, Saint Gregory's goal, in his own words, was to provide "practical advice." He likens his book to an encyclopedia of the human condition. Ttte Narek is designed to bring our spirit back into balance by recalibrating our moral compass. It is a course of spiritual exercises and spiritual formation.

guidebook

This well-developed Armenian spirit, trained and nurtured by the Narek, had the resilience to endure through the centuries, to

ful times are but a short respite in the turmoil and tumult of history. They are times for innovation, and the creative should seize the day. So with saintly prescience in the spirit of the Armenian Renaissance. he set out to build an "edifice of faith" that cannot be destroyed. Recall that Saint Gregory of Narek's Armenia was the land of Ani, the city of a

the thousand and one churches of Ani and sustained the Armenian people through a

continue to expect good despite harrowing evil, to strive - in Saroyan's words - to "bring

thousand and one years of hardship. It was almost as if the saint saw what was coming and provided a salve for our wounds. And a potent salve it was, for body and soul. The Armenian took it to heart. After the Bible, the Narek (www.stgregoryofnarek.am)

goodness out of its hiding place and set it free

thousand and one churches; ofAghtamar, the

was among the earliest and most often

magniflcent carved island monastery; of

printed and read books of the Armenian people: more than 50 printings from 1673 to 1875, an indicator of the level of literacy and culture awareness of Armenian people even in dark times.

Armenia's triumphant, national epic, David of Sassoon; and of the great centers of learning at Haghbat, Sanahin and Kecharis.

Narek's edifice of faith outlasted most of

AIM MARCH 2OO4

and

unafraid."

A native of New lersey, Tbm Samuelian, who translnted and published the first complete translaion of the Narek in English in 2001, is an intemational attomey and scholar living in Armenia. He heads a public interest law firm Arlex International and chairs the Arak-29 Charitable Foundation, both based inYerevan. 57

Undenexposed

Fecling thc Beat Women's World on Display The male-heavv surroundings of the as the exhibition proclaimed, I Gou.rnrn"nt building on ttri capital's women's daily worries. Republic Square enjoyed the feminine touch with the opening of the third interna-

tional Women's World exhibition. Held from February 12-14, its main goal was to seal some deals. Twenty-three Armenian and joint venture companies took part; some already have a presence in the market

and others aimed to break in.

Three types of products clothing and cosmetics

- medicine, were on display to,

Women's World consisted

lessen

of nine the-

matic divisions - work and leisure; beauty and health; mother and child; beauty and cosmetology; perfumery and cosmetics; personal hygiene; clothing; footwear and jewels; consumer services; consumer chemistry.

According

to Anahid

Hakobian,

Chairperson of the organizing company, Expo Media, "There is a great demand among women for such enterprises," hence Women's

World's popularity. The participants of the exhibition included

the Armenian Bone Marrow Registry the Armenian-American Mammography Center,

Military Fir$t Armenian Troops in NATO Activities Thirty four soldiers made history on I n b*ury 12. Their platoon left Zvartnots Airport on the Greek carrier Herculeg head-

Afghanistan and Iraq.

and medical personnel to participate in Iraq

Armenia's Defense Ministry confirmed that they will send transportation, de-mining

to take them.

for Kosovo. This is the fust time Armenian troops are directly engaged and integrated in ed

NATO activities. Sending peacekeepers abroad has been on Armenia's defense agenda for some time. Defense Minister Serge Sargsian made the decision late last year. It was approved by the National Assembly and the President. Now, those soldiers are in Kosovo, learning on the

ground, as they come into contact with peacekeeping and peace building efforts. Requirements are strict. There is English

language training. in order to communicate with other NATO forces, as well as the same level of knowledge and training as other countries' forces. The platoon will partake in the mission as part of the Greek peacekeeping troops, and will be rotated every six months in order to allow other soldiers to gain such experiences. Georgia had sent its peacekeepers to partake in the mission to Kosovo as part of Turkish troops in 1999, as well as sending a peacekeeping contingent to Iraq recently. Azeri peacekeepers finished their mission in Kosovo in 2003, and now have troops in

AIM MARCH

2OO4

peacekeeping, too, as soon as the US is ready

Fon Prosperity Celebrations at Tufenkian Hotel he Avan Marak Tsapatagh Tufenkian Hotel on the shores of Lake Sevan joined in on the Teamdaracft celebration this year. Held 40 days after Armenian Christmag and popularly pronounced Tmdez,this is the holiday newlyweds wait for. This year, on February 13, there was no bad luck to be found. Instead. bonflres were lit, and six newlyrved couples jumped over the fire.The festivities around the event included live music, traditional Armenian dance and a marionette show as well as lighting the adja-

f I

the Armenian Association ol lnternational Homeopathy, Hye Optic Company, AltMed, Vision International and

others.

AIM MARCH 2OO4

cent fields on fire in order to spread the fruits of the fire further. The symbolism continued with the passing around of two different types of.grans;Aghants patties made from ground-down various grains and mixed with a sugary spup - were offered to married couples to sy,rnbolize fertiliry

arrd Poghintz - various grains toasted together were offered to unmarried participants Throughout the country, in villages, and in

the cities, too, including Yerevan, celebrations kept the ancient tradition

alive.

1\INI Armenians Worldwide 40,000 AIM Readers Worldwide 6,000 AIM Subscribers Worldwide 8,OOO,0OO

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0then People's Mail

Puttinu Minds to Best

DearT,

ily's house for dinner. We accepted. A

and told you that your uncle by marriage had a second cousin, whose second cousin on the other side of the family was in town and that she was having him and his wife over for dinner, what would be your response? That's right. You would have started packing her bags for the retirement home. But not here, we're family. And not only were we fed, we have an open invitation to stay anytime we want, and were offered a key to the house in case we needed to stay there in an emergency. Where else in the world would this happen? I bet you don't even know the name of

checked over the notes he had brought on his

your next-door-neighbor let alone being

family tree, but couldn't quite put the rela-

invited over to dinner. Is it any wonder that we love this place? Love,

Just wanted to give you an update on how

we're doing here, which is fine. I'm hoping that by now everyone is figuring out that we love living here, and any of the challenges are well worth it. So start packing your bags! But just in case you're still uncertain about living here, here's something to tip the scales. Last week, one of my students approached

A, explaining to him that they were somehow related. He gave a brief but vague account of the family ties, and invited us over to his fam-

tionship together. But we went anyway, obligatory flowers and candy in hand. After being served a meal fit for a king, the discussion at the table turned to the big question of the night: How were we related?

Photo albums were dragged out, pencils sharpened, and the trail began. It turns out that while attending a wedding in Glendale (ground zero), A's second cousin on his father's side, M, talked to his own second cousin on his mother's side - who of course is of no relationship to A at all. M happened to mention that he had a cousin who was now living in Etchmiadzin. "Really?" was the

reply,

still have family in Etchmiadzin".

Still with me? When all was said and done, the relation turned out to be the son of the sister of the wife of the second cousin to M on his mother's side,who is A's second cousin on his father's side. Now, if your Mom came up to you one day

gauze and says, leave it on for flve dayq don't get it wet (that means no showers) and then, when the plaster falls off by itself, mix a teaspoon of honey with an equal amount of but-

ter and rub it on your foot, the swelling will go down. Sure, I say. I get up, start walking out, then remember my shoulder/arm pain. Can't move my left arm up past my shoulder. Some here, such as H, claim it's the 25 lbs. on my shoulder each day in the form of a fancy Louis Vuitton turned computer bag. Huhl I don't buy that. I flgure I'm just aging. So, I ask snkhji (named Arudsik - little lion) to take a look. He plops me back down, and tells me to let my neck loose. I don't know how to let anything loose, so it doesn't

work. He can't crack it. He's muttering to himself. Well, he says, you won't let me, so I'll go at it another way. He finds two little points at the base of my neck and squeezes to hell. I

Dear R. My ankle had been hurting from when I fell two years ago at LAX when my sister and daughter dressed me in high sandals. Decided to go to the snkhji (aka chiropractor). Now this snkhji - you gotta say it in turkish, chiropractor just doesn't evoke the 7th floor, smelly carpet,little raggedy man with floppy white hair image - works by appointment.I call, he says show up. I go. Up 7 floors and I walk in. I show him my swollen ankle, He says sit down, takes my foot and starts pushing muscles and bones around. After about five minutes of this, and my little squeals of pain, he stops, puts a couple of pieces of plaster-band aids on it, wraps it in lousy looking AIM MARCH

2OO4

scream. Then

he finds two spots in my

armpits. Squeezes some more. Still muttering to himsel( that'she was going to walk around with this pain, bla bla'. He stopq I get up and

move around.

I can do jumping

arrns are fully movable.

jacks. My

I make like a wind-

mill. He laughs. Bandage falls off in two days, after emitting incredible amounts of heat. I confess, the pain is mostly gone, but the swelling is there. Why? Because I neglected his instructions: I haven't slapped any honey/butter mixture on

my ankle yet. Don't know that actually.

Love, S

ever will

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lml'il1 Rich traditions and advanced technologies of tobacco processing. ]ffi

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Tens of thousands of people are employed in the countryside. fhousands are employed in the factories.

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Address: l\lasis Totracco M.V. Republic of Armenia 378370

Ararat Region, Masis.

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+ 374 1 28 34 30 + 37-t I 28 23 4l Far: + 37.1 1 28 34 53 Web site: w*x:grandholding.org E-mail: masistobacco(ri; grandholding,org

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Our production is exported to the USA, f urope and to the countries of ClS.

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