Wired to the World - November 2001

Page 1



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10 From the Editor 11 Letters 14 AIM View

Gover Story

26 Wired to the World Armenia Logs 0n to the lnlormation Revolution

Notebook

16 0uote Unquote 17 Postscript 18 Birthdays & Anniversaries Believe it or Not

19

Did You Know?

|

Bytes on File

Focus

22

Counting Armenia

24

Dateline

Nation

50 A Disturbing Death Connections

52 Mobile

Monsters

Yerevan's Minibuses Create Magic and Madness

54

Growing Optimist Tree Project Plants Roots and Hope

58

The Loneliest Place Why So Many Women Keep Returning to Rooms Like This

Arls

68 Destinations 33 Shop Armenia, and More!

Conneclions

62 The Beauty Battle

A selection of what is available in Yerevans shopping

The Controversy Behind the Miss Armenia

scene, choice restaurants around the US the new hotel

Contest

in Shushi and a list of places to go and things to see rn the

Sugar Sweet Sounds When May was the Oueen of the Eighth Avenue Scene

Armenian Diaspora.

72 Sports 73 0ther People's Mail 74 Underexposed 76 Essay 77 0n the Shell Photo Essay

64

Armenian lnternational Magazine Volume 12, lssue

I

Framing the Kids

Cover design by Patrick Azadian

Seven

Foreisn: 565. Postmaslers: Send address changes to AIM. PO. Box 10791. Glendale. CA 91209. USA.

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1



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o

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ArmeniaDiaspora


1\INI Publisher

SoWhatNow?

ilichael I'lahabel Editor

Tony Halpin Senior Editor

John Hughos Arl Director

Patllcl Azadlan,

f all the decisions I've taken in compiling this issue of AIM, deciding what to put on this page has been the hardest. How to introduce myself? With all guns blazing and

PADA

Assislant Editor

Hrair Sail(ls Sarllsslan Edilor at Large

grandiose promises of reform? Or quietly, suneptitiously, hoping nobody notices there's

P8rik Nazarian

even been a change?

Associale Editors

A. H- Alcxandrian, Laurence Rittor

I'm a believer in evolution not revolution. AIM changed editors but not its central purpose, which is to act as an honest

-

Yercyan

Contributing Edilo6

l{atthew Karanian, Ronald Grigor Suny, Taline lrosleiltchian

mirror on the Armenian world both in the republic and the

wider Diaspora. Salpi, my predecessor, is an extremely hard act to follow.

Associate Publisher

I'm intensely conscious of the loy-

Teni Iilelidonian

alty AIM has enjoyed from its readers and staff under her stewardship. That's her legacy, one that places a responsibility on me to maintain that trust and justify my appointment. Having a non-Armenian editor of an Armenian publication only intensffies the scrutiny. So the only real card I have to play is the quality of the journalism that appean in AIM each

Subscriptions l\,lanaqel

Seta Khodanian Advertising l\4anager

Fimi Mekhilarian l\4arketing l\4anager

Anahid Der Vartanian Administrative Assistafl t

month. That, after all, is why you pay your subscription. There is no shortage of subjects and,

Ester l(eshishyan

thankfully, the magazine is blessed with some really gifted contributors. I hope to encourage more of them to contribute more regularly and to welcome new ones into the fold. I happen to think AIM does a lot of things pretty well - but you'd expect me to say that. I also think there are things that AIM needs to do better. I'm not going to list them - I may be new but I'm not stupid

- but I hope

lnlern

Chlislina Shirlnyan Ysrevan Buleau 67 Koghbalsi Street, No. Phone 53 36 99 AlMarm@arminco.com

in the coming months you will gradually come to appre-

Coordinator

Anahlt Martirossian

ciate some of the changes I want to make.

Web & Promotions

Amin6h Grigorlan

Fundamentally,though,AlM continues to be about you.Your opinions aboutAIM's reporting and what you think we should be covering are important. I welcome your suggestions and criticisms - though forgive me if the constructive ones get more of my attention. Most of all, I want AIM to continue to live up to your trust, to provide that vital connec-

tion between people and communities around the world, and to be an authoritative record of the changes unfolding in Armenia. The magazine has a history of tackling difficult subjects and this month's issue is no exception.

Marianna Grigorian's sensitive and insightful article on abortion in Armenia makes uncomfortable reading on many levels It is a topic that some, no doubt, would prefer not to see in the pages

AIM. But it is one that demands attention simply because it is having such devastating consequences I hope it acts as a catalyst for open debate about a hitherto taboo subject. Marianna, a young and talented reporter, is a great example of what AIM is capable of of

achieving. Based in our Yerevan bureau, she devoted several weeks of thorough investigation

Photo Administrator

ilarino Arushanian Editorial Assistant

Sona Danlelian Adverlising Manager

Gohar Sahalian Confibuto6: Amenia -Gsyane AbEhamian, HU3il Ara, Zara Challnian, Surcn oehedaI, Arhshes Emin, Ashol Garlglnian, Lau]a Gononlen,

,ihdanm odgorian, Julia Halobyan, PanndBm Hwhrnlkian, LlBilr Zefunian; Calihmia -AE Arzumanian, Paul Chadedian, Elia Galhyan, l0irlon ffdd, Asncd Poghadan, Janet Samu8lisn; London - Fllir Corlcy, SHn Pattle; llew Yod( - Gh.islorhu Atamian, Ge0Oe Eoumoutlan; Riode lsland - ilail ltlallasian; Paris - ilyrlam Gaume; Uru0uay Diego Xaramanoukian; Wasiinglon, DC - Moorad llooradiai.

-

Armcnia - ffihihr l0acfiatial, Zarsn l0adlHan, Rodar liaruandar, vahram ilildhrhn, lGEn minashn;

Pholographen:

-

F.m Anbine &ildlian, AminGh Johanms; Calihmia SNi Gam Lfftiilm; Ma&umian, Eh lhzarian, Ara Ghagan; ilNa.hEb BeOe An Zoblal. llew Yorl Hany l(omdakiiar; Rhoda bland

-

-

-

TBnslalors:

-

Amrnla - ilichaol Harutyuilan, Shlshrn f,uilohiyrn. Edilor Emerilus

to her subject. Quality journalism costs time and money, and no other publication in Armenia

Charlas

llaarlan

Amounlin0 Services

could provide that level of support.

AIM

1

BodlC Araradian, GPA

remains committed to examining controversial issues without fear or favor. But I hope

too that it will be a source of enjoyment, entertainment and enlightenment on a wide range of subjects. It's the nature of joumalism never to be satisfied - but we will continue to try our best.

Legal Services

Sh.hln Hahapotl.n, Altomoy at Lau

lilrlnrtlonrl Subrcilptlom and AdvoillrlnC Bspnsrntatlyrt klcillm Colegio Mekhilarisla, Virey del Pino 3511 {1426) Buenos Aires, Phone 54ll

lu.brlla Varooi lskendeian, 1 48 Koola Aw. E6t Killara NSW 2071 Phom m.g251 2eâ‚Ź2; Allred Mailarian, P0.80r370, Haris Pad( NSW2150, Phone029897 1e,46; Vahe Kaleb P0. Box2[O, Po( Melhune,Victoia 3207, Phore039713 1213 Croda Ramig Hakimian,3l$ Sarlelon Slr@t, St. Laurent, 0uebec H4R1E3, Phore 514 339 2517 Hong lGno Jacl Milian, RM. Ar, 1liF, Blmk A,26 Kai Cheuno Rd., Killmn Bay, Xof,loon. Phone 852 795 9888 llaly Pie(e Ealanian, Via Morlam, 6l A4/5, Rome, Phore 995 1235 Zanouhi Kabakiaf, P0. 80x 55669, Beirut, Lebanon, Phone (1) 510212 lrntrd Emlntls Gulizar Jonian, P0.80x44564, Abu DtEbi, uAE, Phom 9712644772t,Fu971rA4 8191 Unlt0d Kqdom fi,lisk olEnian, 105A ltlill Hill Rd. 4552 3590

Llilmr lnb

Acton, London W38.lE Phone 020 8992 4621

write t0 AlMl We welcome all communication. Although we read all letters and submissions, we are unable to acknowledqe everything we receive due lo limited shlling and resources. Leflem l0 the Editor may be ediled l0r publication.

Amenian lnternalional Magazine Founded in 1990

Tony Halpin Los Angelu, Caffimia

Founding Editor Uadan 0skanian Founding Publisher Michael ],lahabel 207 South Brand Boulevard, Suite 203, Glendale, CA 91204 USA Phone 818 246

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

7979 Fax 8.18 246 0088 All\ilagazine@a0l.com


looking to the pages of AIM for such a story and will continue to do so. After all, haven't we all heard ttrat it is the church that teaches us benevolence, compasion, aoceptance and love towards our neighbon? ly, have been

Hasn't the church heard that leading by example, and not preaching,is the best way of teaching? Hopefully Karekin II will read this letter, if he didn't get a chance to see the last issue of AIM. Simon Sagherinn

Encino,Califumia Yet another story on the church (Cover

Story October 2001). Yet another story on Christianity. Yet another story on 1700. Yet another organization competing for donation dollars that could have actually made a difference in people's lives. No word on what the role of this Church is in our current society. Teaching by Example? In your October issue,I found it interesting to see the cover story justi{ying the Church's accomplishment (with a $12 million price tag) only several pages away from another article that focused on a homeless mother and her

I could not help but wonder whether Karekin II would also see this issue, and also think that there is something wrong with this child.

picture.

I

wished that the reporter of that article

had asked the mother if she had ever turned to the church for help. And if sq why is she still

on the streets?

making a difference in our lives? Has it become an aging institution living off of its glory days, which none of us are old enough to remember

or appreciate? Am I the only one who sees this? Is everyone else fine with accepting the status quo? There comes such a time when enough is enough' vou u""*'

"'*

I

imagined a scenario where this mother carries her child up the magnificent stairs leading to the new cathedral and asks for assistance. Would the church tell her that they are all tapped out? Would they refer her to the Manoogian family, having already spent $5 million on the cathedral, to take care of this'broken' family's needs? The questions are many, but the fact remains that there are people out there who have no food and no homes Not just this mother and child, not just in Yerevan, and not just in Armenia. I don't expect Louise Manoogian Simone to solve the problems of the homeless and the hungry. She has done much more for our people than most. I want to believe that not only the Norwegians care about getting refugees out of containerg not only the Catholics are concerned about orphang and not only wealthy Diasporans are expected to foot the bill for everything. I e4pect to see Ejmiatsin,which may arguably be the richest local'charitable' organization, do something, anything, that is not for itself only.

What is the Church doing with the homesituation in Armenia? How is the Church enriching our community? How is the Church

less

I optimistically, and maybe even naive-

!#i#",{;ffrx;

The stress could be the result of a declared

war, such as in Ottoman Tirrkey; or revolution, as in Iran; or a major social upheaval as in Beirut or the current situation in the US. Regardlesg when things are hard and everybody is under pressure,we Dasporangare told to watch out, lay low and be careful. The US and a handful of other Western European countries were always thought to be ourlast hope,munties we oould alwap count on and be certain of protection from arbitrary violence by the people or the state. But we are finding out what our ancestors knew well; that all the protections and freedoms offered by our adopted countries are only as good as the good timesWhen bad times comg things change.

We lived for years in relative peace in Ti.rrkey before the First World War. And we

little problem during the "Paris"days of Beirut, or the "Great Society" days of the Shah of Iran. But as soon as these countries started to experience a social crisis we were reminded of our true status; the fact that we really did not belong. Short of total assimilation - forgetting everything about our Armenian-ness - the only place available to us to live freely and thrive as Armenians is Armenia.And the fact that present dayArmenia may need help and work to function better is more reason for us Diasporans to get started. Sevak Khodaverdian experienced

Sherman O al<s, Califumia

Security Matters

Tonguefied

The recent warning by Glendale City Councilman Bob Yousefian to Armenians

Asbed Pogharian, in writing about Manuk Abeghian (AIM, Aug/Sep 2001), tells about

living in the US not to speakArmenian or listen toArmenian music in the streets lest they be mistaken for Arabs - for in today's atmos-

the arguments concerning the two competing

Armenian orthography (the traditional Mesropian and the Soviet-mandated). systems of

phere in the US, Arabs and Arab-looking people are presumed to either be or have connections with Islamic terrorists - reveals once again the predicament of Diaspora Armenians. We are a minority group in our

He ends with the statement,"The arguments, which raged soon after independence, have mellowed." If in fact they have "mellowed," then I am very much troubled.They should instead have

adopted countries. Time and again, we Armenians move to a country work hard, we contribute to its social, political and economic progress in all kinds of different ways; we consider ourselves good citizens, do our civic duty, and assume acceptance by the society at large.And the society at large seems to accept us back. They tell us to keep doing what we've been doing, that our

intensffied. Our nation is sadly divided onmany fronts Few people are as divided as we are.We have an independent homeland where probablyless than one-third of our world population resides If our independent republic, and indeed, the dispersion as well, is to survive, we need strong tieg a wide bridge joining the two. The bridge has many lanes economig social, intellectual, cultural, political, moral, and

presence is welcome and appreciated. Until something happens Until our adopted countries are put under a great deal of stress Then things change.

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

-

others One lane is certainly language, its orthography in particular. 11


Ihe Fourth Millennium Society is an independently funded and administered public charity committed

Today, in the l,os Angeles area, we happily

have many Armenian day schools but, very sadly, some teach one orthography and some the other. What chaos! What a shame! Irt us look at this matter from the point of view of linguistics All of our students in those schools should be enriched through an under- standing of their cultural heritage and the relationship of their language to others. Mesropian spelling offers a very rewarding insight into our culture, and who we are

Armenra and democratic instituti0ns in the Diaspora, The Fourth lVillennium Society publishes Armenian lnlernational Magazine in its effort to contribute to the national dialogue. The directors are gratelul to the Benelactors, Trustees, Patrons and Friends of the Fourth Millennium Society who are committed to the well-being, growth and development ol Armenians and Armenia through the promotion of open discusslon and the tree flow of inlormati0n among individuals and organizations. Their financial

contributions support the w0rk ot the Fourth lvlillennium Society and ensure the independence of AlM. Vahe Aghamgians, Salpi Haroutinian Ghazarian, Shahen Hairapetian, l\,lichael Nahabet, Raffi

Zinalian, Directors

Directors 2001 Shahen Hairapetian, Armen Hampar, Zaven Khanjian, Michael Nahabet, Alex Sarkissian, Bob Shamlian, Raffi Zinzalian

Benelactors

as people.

Sarkis Acopian, Albert & Tove Boyajian, The Cafesjian Family Foundation, lnc.

Tiaditional spelling in Armenia is surprisingly regular. A few rules guide us quite well. Just think of English! And,besides,the Soviet Armenian spelling is not as regular as one might think. We need to break down the barriers in our language lane for a smoother flow of traffic. Arua S. Avakian Fresno, California

Hirair Hovnanian, The Lincy Foundation, Louise Manoogian Simone

Senior Trustees AUSTRALIA Heros & Kate Dilanchian CANADA Razmig Hakimlan, Kourken Sarkissian H0NG K0NG Jack Maxian USA CA Armand & Nancy Arabian, Khachig Babayan, George & FIora Dunaians, Armen & Gloriat Hampar, Araxie M, Haroutinian, George & Grace Kay, Joe & Joyce Stein NY James Tufenkian Rl Papken Janjigian

Founding Truslees AUSTRALIA Varoojan lskenderian USA CA Garen Avedikian, Mardo Kaprielian, Edward Misserlian, Bob Movelt Varoujan Nahabet, Norair 0skanian, Emmy Papazian, Zareh Sarkissian, Raffi Zinzalian FL Hagop Koushakjian PA Zarouhi Mardikian

Tenth Anniversary Corporate Sponsors Aesthetic & Reconstructive Plastic Surgery, Garo Kassabian; Armenian Jewelers'Association; Commerce Casino, Hasmik Mgrdichian; George Tumanjan; Grand Tobacco, Hrand & Mikayel Vardanian;

Unstuck

ISB Group, Armen

I do not understand what Sevak Khoda-

& Ketty Kazandjian; Law 0ffice ol Aris Artounians, Aris & Karine Artounians;

Law 0flices of Ourfalian & Ourfalian, Rafi & Sarkis 0urfalian; NASA Services lnc., Sam & Elizabeth Sarkisian;

Nick & Kamelia Sarkisian; Arsen Sarkisian; Pacilic Sales, Jeny Turpanjian;

verdian meant by "we Armenians are stuck with our Armenian-ness forever" (Letters,

Remax ot Glendale, Vahe & Aida Yeghiazarian; Yerevan Hotel

Associale Trustees

AugusU September).

If Armenians are "stuck. . . forever," that's too bad for them because that means they're "dead.. .forever." ff he himself is "stuck. . .forever" in Glendalg why, for a change, doesn't he try Madagascar or East Timor or much better,Armenia? In a magazine that has a generous portion of its pages reserved to a safe and glossy propaganda for Glendale Armenians about their far away "Armenian theme paft" called "Homeland," it's a very positive and healthy phenomenon that there is space in AIM for a person like John Hughes, who is not "stuck... forever." Chant Avedissinn Yerevan, Armenia

AUSTRALIA Arman & Nairi Derderyan USA CA Vartkes & Jean Barsam, Walter & Laurel Karabian, Gary & Sossi Kevorkian Nazar & Artemis Nazarian, Ralph & Savey Tufenkian NH Jeannette John

Palrons

Artin Etmekiian

Roubefl V & Tania Chakalian Hagop & Violet Dakessian Caro & Diyana Danielian Ardash & Marian Derderian

George & Varlouhi Tavoukiian Mack Vahanian

Dimilri & Tamara Dimilri Steve & Lucille Eslephanian

Anonymous

Manoushag Fermanian

ABiIEIIIA Khachatur & Rouzanna Soukiassian AUSTEAI-IA

I just received AIM magazine and within seconds I wrote a letter to say how stupid I found Mr. Khodaverdian, asking him to go and look for his lost sense of humor, or never having had one, to go and buy some. Then I remembered modern technology

and here I am repeating what I wrote in a letter that you will probably receive in two weeks.Thank God for John Hughes and his

for Armenia and

Petros & Garine Taglyan Ara & Avedis Tavitian Gaidzag

& 0zovig Zeitlian

usA c0t{ltEcltcuT

CAt,lADA

Gagik & Knar Galstian

Louise Aznavour

Vahan & Audrey Gregor Pierre & Alice Haig

Kevork & Pamela Toroyan

[,4igirdic & Ani Migirdicyan Soghomon & Arpiar Sakarya & Familis

USA iIASSACHUSETTS

Louis

I

Hagopian

CYPNUS

Shahen & Marlha Haroutunian Arpiar & Hermine Janoyan Z. Greg Kahwajian

Garo Keheyan

Jack & Maro Kalaydjian

6NAEL

Kevork & Satenig Karajeriian

"ICHIGATI George Chamchikian

Adrine Karakashian

Edgar & Sarah Hagopian

LEBAI{ON

Nishant & Sona Kazazian Kirk & Ann Kesapyan John & Rose Ketchoyan Zaven & Sona Khanjian

Kevork Bouladian

Krikor Krikorian

Larry & Seda Barnes

UAE

Margaret Chanlikiant USA ]{EW YOR(

0iran & Suzi Chakelian

Julie Kulhaniian & Roger Strauch Louis & Grace Kurkiian Dora Serviarian Kuhn Avik l\,lahdesiant

usA cALtt0SlflA

Stepan & Erdjanik Markarian

Harry & Aida Koundakiian

Mihran & Elizabelh Aobabian

Harout & Rila lvlesrobian

Nancy Kricorian

Garabed Akpolat

Edward & Alice Navasargian

Vahe Nishaniant

ITATY

Ramik A.

Tatevossian

UlllTED KllcD0lri

Kevork Atinizian Bichard Simonian USA

Alex lvlanoogiant Kirakos Vapurciyan USA IIEVADA

USA IIEW JERSEY

M. Michael Ansour

V John & Lucille

Harry & Alvarl Barseghian

Armand 0. Norehad

Aram & Terez Bassenian

Kenneth & Cindy Norian

Harout Topsacalian

Daniel Behesnilian Berj & Hera Boyaiian

Rafi 0urfalian Michael & Hermine Piranian

Bany & l\,4argarel Zorihian

G. Sarkissian

USA WASHII{GTO}I DC

Hralch & Helga Sarkis

the Filends ol

Armenians. Edda Karaknshinn

Alil

The Fourth lilillennlum Society is gratelul t0 the lollowing l0r conlributing during the last month lo ensure AlMs financial independence

llSA CA lsaac & Frieda Vartanian. ,lJ Jack & Ani Anserian

By Email 12

Alex Sarkissian Robert & Helen Shamlian Sun Plaslics, lnc.

Gerair & Elise Dervishian

Krikor & Harout lslanbulian

obvious love

to the

dissemination ol information for the purpose 0l developing an inlormed public. Underpinning all our work is the firm c0nviction ttEt the vitality 0f an independent pres is fundamental to a democratic society in

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1


Help solve the housing criâ‚Źr,! Ncrme

itote/Province IiplPostol Code Xountry

imail

lrsdit â‚Źord ixp. Date

#

rleose moke donotions poyoble

io the Fourih Millennium iociery (FMS - publisheri oI atf,f;, o 5OI (c)3, nor for proft org6nizotion'- credft cordr occ'epted. YdJ will receive on tcknowledgment lel{er ond tor iriformotion from FMS, r:s vell os leilirr ond updoter directly from NRC.


An Avoidable Risk Attitudes to contraception must be modernized Few things are more shocking to Western sensibilities in Armenia

to an idealized vision of Armenian womanhood than face the reality

than the casual manner in which abortion is regarded. Whereas in Europe and the United States, abortion is seen as a solution of last resort - and even then, a highly controversial one - in Armenia it is

that many thousands of such women are having their insides butchered by outmoded ways of thinking. It is particularly initating that promi nent women should be at the head of such protests, while letting men's behavior and attitudes off the hook. It is easy to get bogged down in a debate about morality, but this is first and foremost a health question. Women in Armenia should be entitled, just as they are in Europe and America, to make their own decisions about their bodies. That means they must be given clear and accurate information about the pill and other contraceptive methods, plus easy access to whichever option they choose.The Government has a key role to play in changing the atmosphere, opening it up to public debate and removing the stigma surrounding sexual issues. Nobody ever died of being well informed, but ignorance is a proven killer. Diaspora organizations can also play their part by acknowledging the problem and acting as advocates for change. The Women's Reproductive Center at Erebuni Hospital (see AIM August 1993) was a pioneering attempt at making such change. That kind of effort needs to be revived.The wrong thing to do would be to remain silent because of misplaced concems about the sensitivity of the subject. Changing male behavior will be harder and take longer, but that's no reason not to try. Men need to be made to understand that they share responsibility for preventing pregnancy if they have no intention of becoming fathers.That too will take education. Here is one more battle that can be fought, if Armenia has the will, and the Diaspora paves the

accepted as the principal means of contraception. As a result, women subject themselves to the invasive surgical procedure with frightening regulanty -it is not uncommon for a woman to have as many as 15 abortions during her reproductive life, sometimes more. They seem resigned to, or worse ignorant ol the tremendous risks they are taking with their health, physical and psychological. Men in Armenia pay no heed whatsoever to the excessive price women are paying for participation in what iq after all, a joint enterprise. They take a simple and - again, to Western ears - neanderthal approach. It is her problem. Men take no responsibility for contraceptive decisions - indeed, it is regarded as "macho" to insist on never wearing a condom. On an individual level, the consequences of this situation are tragic enough. Add together all those personal tragedies and it becomes a national crisis.The accumulated scars ofrepeated operations are leaving thousands of women infertile - as many as one in four according to research by one medical association in Armenia. A small country where the birth rate is already falling, simply cannot afford to go on this way if it wishes to have a future. All the more depressing, then, that attempts to improve education

about contraceptive options have encountered opposition from socalled intellectual leaders in Armenia. It seems they would rather cling

way.

$lJ[$[ilpil[]l$ r[tillltnY rHlilililll rll|illl]l$

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People Poser Census won't settle the most important question Putting a number to the exodus of people from Armenia in recent years has become something of a party game. Is it half a million, one million, a million and a half? Think of a number, add a zero and claim to "know" and you too can play. All that can be said for certain is that a lot of people have gone - the quiet streets and half-empty apartment blocks in Armenia's towns and cities bear testimony to that. So Armenia's fint census since independence has added sifficance. It must settle, as any census is intended to, the question of how many people live in the Republic of Armenia.What that number is, however, may determine how seriously people take the census. As with almost everything in Armenia, the census has become a deeply politicized subject. People predisposed to believe the worst about the situation in the country are convinced they will be conflrmed in their view that perhaps half the population has left. Anything less will be seen

as evidence of a govemment cover-up rather than cause

for mild relief,

By the same inverted logic, the Government and its supporters would be likely to hail anything less than a million departures as some kind of

endorsement for its policies, evidence that social and economic conditions are not as bad as critics make out. Pressure to "spin" the statistics will be all the greater because results from the census are not due to be published until early 2fi)3, just months before the presidential elections Inevitably, they will be viewed as a judgement, good or bad, on Robert Kocharian's term of office. Amid all the mudslinging to comgwe hope one thing will not be forgotten.Howevermanyhave left isperhaps lessrelevant nowthan howmany of them can be persuaded to return. ff those conoemed with the political and economic development of Armenia can addres that question, they may emerge with credit whatever the final figure for the exodrs tums out to be.

I

Putting Down Roots Tiee project offers an easy way to connect Sometimes the simplest ideas work best. In the bleak winters of 1993 and 1994, when people in Armenia saw trees, they thought firewood. Nature provided a means of survival then, but at a healy envi-

ronmental price. Carolyn Mugar's brainchild, the Armenia Tiee Project (See page 54) is now repaying that debt with interest and at the same time offering an effective means for everyone in the Diaspora to be involved in improving the homeland. It costs just $10 to donate a tree toArmenia,thereby helping to preserve the beauty of its nature. You can see where the money goes there's a tree! - and you know it's a gift of lasting value. Plant 50 and you'Il even get a plaque acknowledging your commitment to greening

Armenia's land. There are also solid economic reasons for looking after Armenia's environment. Different types of trees can create new jobs and markets, while agricultural products have the potential to be one of the country's major export eamers From little acornq well, you know the rest. The clarity of thought that created the Armenia Tiee hoject is sorely needed in other areas of philanthropy. Past disappointments over charitable ventures have made Diaspora Armenians wary. But they will respond where they see a direct connection between their donor dollars and the people they want to help.The challenge for those involved in projects to assist Armenia is to give donors that sense that today's seeds will become tomorrow's harvest. r a corner of

STATEME{T 0f oWfEBSfllB MAIIAGIMENI AND CIRCUI,AII0N 1. Publimli0n Tltl6: fim&}ian hmbnat M{Ens 2. hJbli@lim tS. 105+3171 3. Filing Dsle: S€plsnber 27, 2ml 4. Freqem.y: Mond]ly ercepl Jmm,y/Fdn ry E A{Gt6.pfrmb0r (comblmd) 5. N0. 0l issus publishd annmlly: 10 6. Armul $Sscriplion Pritrr S55 tjs 7. Conplds l&ilin0 Adms! ol (no$t- ffh6 d tublicdiont 207 $

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NOTEBOOK

((lthink there are serious reasons why I should join in the signature gathering lto call lor the impeachment ol President Kocharianl. But one must also evaluate and ask, then what? There must be the lollowing analysis: Why is the country in this situation? What is the reason? There are endless changes, l0r example, the presidents changed. But the condition of the people did not change. In other words, are there more deep-rooted reasons for why we're in this situation?

ll

-Shavarsh Kocharian

o,,,.,,o,ll,l,i'lll

JiIlT# ijffi :S,i,t:?

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***** ((lt

(the 0SCE) doesn't take a principled position, Azerbaijan wil! start a war to Iiberate its occupied territories.

I rYou say that some companies cannot come here to carry out work. I want to talk to you openly. Azerbaiiani

ll

organizations are also, naturally, to blame lor this. These companies are also guilty. For instance, you mentioned here about McDonald's. They built a restauranl in the city center [in Baku] and our people like it very much. They want to expand their activity here. However, they are not lollowing the right path. And they are not the only ones. They come and deal with individuals. These people in turn do not go about lorming links with other state bodies and trying to arrange work in the proper way. One should not enter Azerbaijan through the'back door.' r,

-Azerbaijani President Haidar Aliev on discussions to solve the Karabakh question 0ctober 2001

rrGod forbid there's a war, but il it starts, it will be the beginning ol the deleat ol Azerbaijan's last war. ,, -Serge Sargsian Minister of Defense ol Armenia on the same subject 0ctober 2001

-Azerbaijani President Haidar Aliyev to a sroup of US Businessmen in Xalq Qazetr

(

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rwe have a dilfercnt menhli$, but we arc he same people. We have a common goal:to keep Armenia,frl,rrfi;i3rr,r, RepubricorArmeniaAmbassadorro,.rl,iH,rffi

rrA Georgian who is hostile with Armenians lirst ol all an enemy ol Georgia, just as an

Armenian who is hostile with a Georgian is, first, the enemy ol Armenia.

ll

-Georgian President Eduard Shevardnadze

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NOTEBOOK

RecoUnition Gome$ witlr t[G Buslre$

t,,"r*d

E# he box office success of Rush

Hour

#

starring Jackie Chan and Chris Tircker. has given Iilm producer Arthur Sarkissian (AIM, February 2.

2000) more reasons to smile. The film. released in August, has already passed the $200 million mark in box ofhce grosses worldwide. Sarkissian's onginal Rush Hour, released in 199[3, grossed over g2-50 million, putting it in the same league as some of the most anticipated sequel franchises in film historv. Wirh a success ol'that magnitude. you bet there will be a rush to make number thrce. To recognize his many accomplishments in the lilm industry the tos Angeles based Arpa Foundation lor Elm. Music and Afl (AFFMA) honored Sarkissian dunng its Fourth Annual Film Festival in September.The sold out event in the Crystal Ballroom at Sheraton Universal Hotel included many guests from the entcrtainment industry. Tircker was scheduled to present Sarkissian with the Arpa Life Achievement Award. but due to the events of September l1 he could not return from Europe in time.That pleasurable duty went instead to Roselyn Sanchez. who played US secret service agent Isabella Molina in the flim. According to Sylvia Minasian. chairwoman of AFFMA. Sarkisian noted in a written statement to the foundation that he "was very touched to be honored by his fetlow Armenians and hopes thal this illl .n*rrug. yorng Armenian filmmakers to continue to follow their dreams and never give up". -Asbed Pogharian

Sarkissian accepling his tiletime Achievement Award presented to him by AFFMA. Above, left to right Sylvia Minassian, chairwoman ol AFFMA, Sarkissian, and Roselyn Sanchez ol Rush Hour 2. Top:

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

17


NOTEBOOK

llocumentinu the lliaspona

I I

ames names, names.. more than 120,000 of them, brought together

IUUV thri, *rnron

"ian" or "yan" endings Welcome to the useful

I I*"r*yeuowpages The fint such directory the Armenian Directory and Yellow Pageg was published 21 years ago by Bernard Berberian of UniArts "Back in lW9,l cane to the realization that there was no directory

or publication that could be used as a guide or telephone book for Armenians," says Berberian. What started as a humble booklet of names and telephone numbers ofArmeniansin the losAngeles area has snowballed into aconcise directory that norv covers the entire United States and Canada, containing both White and Yellow pages, as well as listings of Armenian schoolg churches and organizationsThe book also features general information ranging from driving education inArmenian to a dream dictionary.

ln 1991, a decade after the publication of its fint counterpart, a second directory calling itself theArmenianYellow Pages &Almanac appeared on the market,published by HamoVassilian. Even though the information found in Vassilian's directory is similar to that of Berberianl many households have both. Keeping information current is not easy. "We are not like the local telephone companies which easily update their information because their customers are connected to their lineg" says Berberian. Despite the fficulties, both publishers do their best to keep their lists up to date' Wth the advent of the Internet,both now also offer their information online. Berberian'sArmenian Directory andYellow Pages can be accessed at wwwArmenian.com andVasilian's ArmenianYellow Pages & Almanac at www.Armenianyellowpagesnet. -Asbed Pogharian

[oilUy llistony lesson Tlrc Armenian bbby was active lnst month in defense of Section X)7

of

whkh restrict US assistance n Azerbaijan unll il remova illegal blackndes of Armenia and KarabaklL Presidmt Bwh aked for unconditioral removal of the ratrbtbrs as part of his pkru for proseaiing the war on tenor; but tlrc Sennte firully approved only a limited waiv' the Freedom Support Act,

er allowing assistnnce to be given provided it could not be wed for offeraive purposes against Armenia and Karabakh Thb pro-Tilrkish author finds a simple explarution for Armenim influence inWashington, DC

I I

n 1918Armenia establistred what it called "colonies" in the United States by sending it people to help build a political base to get free money and Isupport from America-Those colonies have grown and have been very successful in helping get "free stuffl' for their socalled "homeland"! There are few million Armeniars now residing in the United States and theymounted a massive campaigrr to get"Christian"United States to help "Clristian" Armenia. As a result, the United States Congres passed 19q2 to cut foreigr aid from Azerbaijan because they legislation

n

defended themselves The United States Conglesg at the urging of Armeniang determined thatAzerbaijan had engaged in an "illegal block-

ade" in closing its ports to Armenia! On September 11,2001, the United States was the victim of the grear est terrorist attack in the nation's history. As a result, the United States of America declared war on terrorism and began butlding an intemational base of support. One of the muntriesthe United States reached out towas Azerbaijan. The hesident and Secretary of State are asking Congress torepeal the 199 law cutting off foreigrr aid to Azerbaijan. The Armenians are having cats, fits, and dop objecting to the United States repealing the 1992law!

Armenia stole Nagomo.Karabakh from Azerbaijan in 1992 by an unprovoked, sneak, surprise attack. Armenia drove out more than one million poor Muslims without compensation and these destitute souls today live in squalor in tent city refirgee camps Armenia used terrorist tactics in taking a[ this land from Azerbaijan TMay,Armenian Americans are flooding our Congress with millions of letten begging our elected officials not to repeal the l92lawthat cut offaidto Azerbaijan Clearly tlrese Armenian American mlonisb have a greater love for their "ancient homeland" than ttrey do for the United States of America"

AIM NOVEMBER

-Sam Weems 2OO1


NOTEBOOK

$aintly Pnoune$$

ope John Paul II led beatification ceremonies at the Vatican on October 7 in honor of the victims of Ottoman and Nazi persecution. Bishop Ignatius Maloyan was among the eight people being considered for eventual sainthood by the Roman Catholic Church. Born Chukrallah Maloyan in 1869 in the town of Mardine,Tirrkey, Maloyan later became a seminarian at the Notre-Dame Convent in Bzommar, Lebanon, where he studied from1883-1895. Maloyan was ordained priest in 18% and spent the latter 19 years of his life traveling between Egypt and Constantinople. He was ordained the Armenian Catholic Archbishop of Mardine in 1911 and remained there

until his death. Having sustained many cruelties and injustices at the hands of the Tirrkish government, Bishop Maloyan was brutally murdered on June ll,l9l5, along with 417 other Christians for their loyalty to their Church and to Armenia. -Eliza Galfayan

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1


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Focus

GountlnU Anlnenla So Just How Many People Are There? TEXT By ASHoT GAREGTNTAil I PHoToS BY KAREN

MlilASSlAil

| YEREVAN

rlhe fust nationwide census sinceArmenia I b".urn. independent took place from I O"tob". 10 to 19. The ten-day collection of data about the population should settle one of the most controversial questions in the republic - just how many Armenians remain in the country following the large-scale emigrations of recent years? The last official census took place in 1989,

under Soviet rule, when Armenia's resident population was put at 3,287,677 with a further 17,09 recorded as temporarily absent. But the statistics collected then were generally regarded as unreliable because the suwey was conducted after the December 1988 earth-

quake that devastated northem Armenia. An estimated 25,000 people were killed and hundreds of thousands more displaced, making it extremely fficult to collect accurate assessments in the different districts In addition,the mass movement of refugees intoArmenia had begun-alongwith the exodus of Azerbaijanis from the republic - as a result of the gowing conflict over Karabakh. Estimates vary as to the scale of emigration duringArmenia's first, dfficult decade of independence. But the most common view is that around 1.25 million have departed. "This is why the present census is so important," said Madimfu Khojabekian, a member of the Armenian Academy of Sciences The National Statistical Service of Armenia is responsible for conducting the censusA trial run carried out in Spitak and eight villages of the Ararat district last year was judged a success The census proper is already late. One was planned to take place in 1999, in accordance with the accepted intemational standard of conducting population surveys every L0 years But it was cancelled because of lack of funds "Honestly speaking, now this is a problem as well," said Samuel Nersissian, head of the Census Department at the NSS. "It became possible thanks to assistance rendered by international organizations and donor-countries

"In

particular, Italy, Switzerland, the

Netherlands and Greece helped us through the World Bank.Also,the United Nations PopuIation Fund and Great Britain Development

Agency gave $130,ffi and $750,ffi respectivelyl' Much of the cash was used to pay for an

information from different villages Those

information campaigr on television and radio. Colorful posters and calendars publicizing the

to have a high standard of education, good

census were also produced.

"I am hopefirl the census will answer an important question:how big is the population of Armenia today?" said Amline Avetisian, a cen-

Organizers estimated the total cost of the census at 911 million Drams (approximately $1.72 million). Of that sum, only 211 million Drams, or about 23 percent, was contributed from Armenia's state budget. Some 221 census collection points were

organized across Armenia, involving around 15,000 enumerators hired on temporary contracts. They were each paid 20,000 Drams ($36) to go door-to-door collecting details of people in each household on questionnaires. Nersissian said more than 2,000 rooms were set aside by local authorities for census staff travelling around the country to collect AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

selected to carry out the work were required character, and plenty of energy.

sus collector and student at Yerevan State University.

"Nearly every family that I visited in connection with the census is curious to know the answer to this question." The questionnaires mntained 47 questions in all, concerning age, place of residence, employ-

ment data and income level, the number of children in a family and so on. Nersissian said details of family members who had left Armenia during the last eight years were also being collated, adding: "They


Focus

remain a part of the country's human resources too and we need information about them." Armenians will have to wait to discover the answem about themselveq however. Officials don't expect to release the findings until early

2m3.

What the census tells them will have an important bearing on many aspects of life in Armenia; including future plans for construction of schoolg homeq and hospitalsThe size of many foreip aid programs is also related to the population ofa counfiry. Most of all,perhaps, it will redefineArmenia's

itse[puttinghard facts to the widespread ofa shrunken county. "No doubt," said Stepan Mnatsakanian, president of Armenia's National Statistical Service, "our fellow-citizens' honest answers to our questions will help to outline the shape of Armenia's r sense of

sense

future."

woman lills in her census lorm. ilational Statistical Services president

Opposite page: A Right:

Stepan Mnatsakanian. Below: One ol lhe many posters encoulaging citizens to pailicipate in lhe census.

- '*'no

+i;P-{

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

a+


llateline

Georgian-Turkish military cooperation, Kochar-

SwlTZER[AlIII Swissair has cancelled its twice-weekly service from Zurich toArmenia and announced plans to close its Yerevan office. The airline had temporarily halted flights

ian said such cooperation "does not arouse serious anxiety in Armenia, although it does not make us happy for obvious reasons". Kocharian described the treaty between the two states as "a serious document" that wottld serve as basis for bilateral relations over the next ten to 15 years.

TffiITED $TATES

Washingon, DC. He is pictured center with Professor Richard Hovannisian (below, far left), associate director of the Crnter for Near Eastern Studies at

UClA,and Clark Univenity President

John Bassett at the announcement ceremony on October 21. Clark is required to raise $800,000 in matching funds as part of the gift. The search for the flrst chair has begun.

ftNEIT BRITAII{

President George W. Bush has appointed Deputy Assistant Secretary, Department of Commerce in the International Tiade Administration in Washington, DC.

Joseph Bogosian

as

it to

declare bankruptry. Services resumed after the company was rescued with a loan from the Swiss government, but they have now fallen victim to a severe cost-cutting program. Ten staff at the Yerevan office will lose their jobs when Swissair ceases operations in Armenia. It has also discontinued services to

Baku,Tbilisi, and St. Petersburg. Once considered one of the most stable airlines in the world, Swissair was particularly badly affected by the financial crunch that struck the industry after the September 11 terror attacks in the United States. Prior to those events, it had been considering expanding its service to Armenia to three flights a week. Swissair began flights between Yerevan and Zurich in May 1998. Its closure leaves

Aeroflot, Armenian Airlines, Austrian

and education-

automotive and capital equipment indussectors. Bogosian played a key role in

The Armenian Institute is the brainchild of a score of British-based academics, professionals and enthusiasts, who want to focus particularly oncontemporary Diaspora life. Profesor Khachig Toloyan, from Connecticut's Wesleyan

organizing young professionals, Armenian Americans, and Florida voters in support of

Univenity, gave an inaugural lecture at the l-ondon School of Economics on the changing

the Bush-Cheney campaign during the presidential elections.

deflnitions of diasporainthe age of globalization.

Bogosian, an attorney and public affairs consultant, will have responsibility for the aerolast month after a financial crisis forced

A newArmenian cultural

al society has been established in London.

space,

try

A daylong workshop for children resulted in the performance of a new version of the

folktale 'Anahit" A new endowed Chair in Armenian Studies has been established at Clark Univenity in Worcester, Massachusetts, following a $1.2 million donation from Carolyn Mugar and her hus-

song and

It will

be known as the Robert Aram & Marianne Kaloosdian and Stephen & Marian Mugar Endowed Chair of Armenian Genocide Studies and will provide for a professor dedicated to the study of modemArmenian history and the Armenian Genocide. The Chairis named in honor of Mugar's par-

Airlines and British Airways as the carriers

ents and

serving Armenia.

uate, who is a lawyer in Watertown, Mass, and president of the Armenian National kstitute in

RobertAram Kaloosdian,a Clark gad-

ffi[IElllA An'Agreement on Friendship, Cooperation and Mutual Security" was sealed during a State visit to Armenia by Georgia's President

Eduard Shevardnadze. Shevardnadze met with President Robert Kocharian in Yerevan on October 23, just a week after a fresh outbreak of fighting in the disputed Abkhazia region of Georgia left 14 Armenians dead. The agreement between the two neigh-

bors states that Georgia and Armenia will not take military steps against each other. Shevardnadze also said that Georgia would never develop relations with third countries that damaged the interests of Armenia. Shevardnadze said the "friendship" agreement should allay Armenian concerns over 2OOI

dance. and

Nikki Hu

Guy Van Duser worked with children aged five to 10 on the piece, which was commissioned specially by the Armenian Institute.

A book exhibition, featuring old

band John O'C-onnor.

AIM NOVEMBER

in

Massachusetts-based artists

and rare

works on Armenian culture as well as children's literature and publications by members of the institute, was held at the same time.

Susan Pattie, the Armenian Institute's chair, said: "We are living in one of the most vibrant and cosmopolitan capitals in the world. In this dynamic environment, Armenians can collaborate with othen and make a contribution to the exchange of ideaq developing new resourceg publicationg and

programs" .



Goven Stony

WnciltothcWorlil Armenia Logs On to the Information Revolution BY HAYGAZ BAGHIAN AND NABIiIE KHACHATRIAN IYEREVAN

he global economy being

created

through advances in information technology simultaneously presents new opportunities and challenges for Armenia in the transition from a command to a marketbased society. Developments in computing and communications offer the prospect of taking a leap forward to a modern knowledge-based economy, bypassing many of the

phases passed through

by industrialized

countries in the West. If the prize is great, so are the demands Fundamental reforms are required to create the necessary legal, educational and telecommunications ffiastructure so thatArmenia can fuIfil its potential as an e-economy "hotspot" in the region.

The will to succeed is clear among many of those working in the field. Serge Adamian, President of SolarEn lnternational Corporation, based in Minnesota, said: "When we had an opportunitywe succeeded.When chances present themselves agairlwe will succeed over agafui"

SolarEn, one of the leading hi-tech companies in Armenia, operates as a technology incubator, developing clean energy and

renewable power projects as well as applications for use on mobile devices. This optimism is shared by a number of interfrom the World Bank to

national

the United Nations Development hogramme ([INDP) and the US Agenry for Intemational Development. Experts from these bodies have all rated very highly Armenia's potential as an

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

active participant

in the global Information

Technology (IT) industry. It is also demonstrated by the sharp and continual gowth in Armenia's IT sector, fuelled by the arrival of more than 60foreign companiega break-neck inflow of investments into the Armenian market, and a doubling of trainen at IT educational irstitutions in recent years These apparent successes are vividly reflected in the UN's Global Human Development Repon for 2fi)1, where they have been a sigrificant contributor to Armenia's rise from 93rd place lastyearto 72nd in its index of human capital. Armenia has now overtaken all of its neigboun - Georgia holds 76th position,Azerbajan

T9th,Tirkey 82nd and Iran 90th. The index of human capital is calculated


Gouen $tony

based on a country's per capita income, average life expectancy, and level of education. According to Davit Hakobian, LINDP Assistant Resident

Representative

in Armenia, the republic's

income per capita increased by 10 percent, the education index by eight percent and average life expectancy by two yea6 reaching 72.7 years, over the period in question. Although neighboring countries have higher per capita incomes than Armenia, they lag behind on other elements of the index, particu-

larly in the educational field. Cunently,99 percent of Armenia's population is literate,the vast majority having completed ten years of education, and 13.1 percent hold a university degree. That high level of education is a key factor in the emergence of Armenia's IT industry during

the economic transition period now. Even before independence, Armenia had a reputation as a Soviet "Silicon Valley". Although one of the smallest republics in the former Soviet Union,Armeniawas considered among the most technologically advanced. The republic's 130 scientific research institutes employed 20,000 people, half of whom worked at the Yerevan Research Institute of Mathematical Machines producing both computer hardware and software progmrns

Many high precision instruments used in

Soviet space stations and satellites were desigred and manufactured in Armenia. The republic was the third largest contributor to research in the USSR after Russia and Ukraine. It was also second only to Russia in the number

of scientists and specialists with degreeJevel qualifications per thousand ofthe population. Armenia's Ministry of Industry and Tiade estimates that almost 30 percent of hi+ech computer and electronic equipment used for Soviet defense and space systems were developed and produced in the republic. By 1990, more than 100,000 people, or about 10 percent of the labor force, were working in the field of electronics. The collapse of the Soviet Union dealt a body blow to this scientific community, which was suddenly deprived of funds and purpose. Newly independent Armenia, ovenvhelmed by the consequences of the 1988 earthquake, the economic blockade from Azerbaijan, and the catastrophic domestic energy crisis, could not offer any real support. As a result, the number of researchers shrunk by four-fold to just 5,000 in the five years between 1990 and 1995.

emergence of a private business sector created new opportunities to restore the shattered legacy of Armenian science through IT. Growth was slow at fint but by 1998 the sector had launched onto its present spectacular expansion. According to the Intemational Tiade Center, the technical cooperation agency of the United Nations Conference on Tiade and Development and the World Tiade Organization, the Armenian IT market was worth $250 million in 2000. This was an increase of 25 percent on the 1998 level - local experts estimate the market to be worth even morg perhaps $350400 million.

The production of computer and data communication hardware accounted for 20 percent of the market, totaling $50 million, an increase of 25 percent in two yearsThe largest segment was telemmmunications equipment - at a time when ArmenTel was investing heavily in the development of mobile telephony and digital switching which was worth $1ffi million by 2000. The Armenian [ntemet Users Group, a nongovemmental organization set up to represent the interests of internet userg estimates that there are around 50,000 computers in the country and that 4,000 machines are bought annually. The number of computers connected to the internet is put at 15,000 and there are more than 200 web-serven operating in the republic. Software and services companieq although representing only about eight percent of the current market, have seen spectacular growth. They doubled in value to $20 million between 1998 and 2000, largely because of the increased demand within Armenia itself for networking productq packaged application solutions and software support. Garegin Chookaszian, executive director of the Information Technology Foundation (ITF) in Yerevan, a non-govemmental organization focussing on the use of computen in education,

-

ftryoil,

advises Robert Kocharian on intemetissues as a

of the Information Technologies Council established by the President. According to Vahram Stepanian, co-author

member

of the Armenian

Software lndustry Sector Study, which was funded by the World Bank, production and exports by software companies

in Armenia, both local and

Har$rare

other local industries over the same period. Viktoria Ter-Nikoghossiar; executive director of the Union of Information Technology Enterprises of Armenia, representing about 20 software, training, and intemet service mmpanies, said the succes of the software indusbry has

driven the expansion of other IT serton including intemet serviceg electronic data procesing hardwarq and educational courses A quarter of the 400 companies currently operating in Armenia's IT market are engaged in software development. They are also the largest employers among the IT workforce, with around 3,000 staff There remains a large pool of talent to draw on, however, since about 4,000 graduates with IT qualiflcations and aged under 40 do not have jobs in this field. Karen Vardanian, head of the IT development directorate at the Ministry of Industry and Tiade, estimated that they need only three to six months of training to raise their skills to the level required by most companies Of the 42 foreign software companies established in Armenia,26 are US-based busi-

1998

2000

30

40

10

10

10

20

90

100

20

& Control

10

10

20

20

10

20

250

tffirnillions AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

foreign-owned,

have been at least doubling each year from l9W to 2000. By the end of 2000, estimated total annual sales in the sector amounted to between $18-20 million. The sector accounted for about five percent of Armenia's total exports in 2000. The growth rate of exports from Armenia's software is about twice that of

U$AIO

Wth the reopening of the Metzamor nuclear power plant, Armenia succeeded in meeting its energy needs in 1994 in contrast, for example, to Georgia, which continues to have daily power outages. The rapid privatization of large parts of the economy and the

describes the surge in software production as "one of the brightest spots in the recent industrial development of Armenia." Chookaszian also


Goven $tony

slowly throughout society, with perhaps only 40-50,000 users nationwide.

However, some businesses are working with foreign companies, including those from Canada, Ireland, Russia, and the US, on web design and development. Their emergence is evidence of the comparative advantages thatArmenia enjoysAs well as high levels of technical expertise, labor costs are

highly competitive and the republic benefits from the established networks and contacts of professionals in the Armenian Diaspora. Unlike many other businesseg internet companies are

nesses

with others coming from the United Kingdom, Ireland. Belgium, France, and

used in by flnancial companies in Armenia.

Russia. Although accounting for slightly fewer

another promising area of development for Armenian companies Grigory Vahanian, coordinator for the lntemet Access and Tiaining hogram in Armenia, said such software muld provide the basis for the development of dis-

than half of software enterprises in the republic, their operations tend to be bigger and they employ some 60 percent of programmers Since there is a broad range of specialties available in Armenia, companies develop a wide variety of software products These range from accounting and banking software to multimedia educational applications, database management systems, web-design and business-tobusiness programs

Foreign software companies in Armenia export most of their products, which include secure e-business solutions, e-commerce soft-

ware, and wireless applications for clients ranging from corporations to governments. Software packages developed by local companies are introduced and applied in many

fields of the economy. For instance, banking and flnancial software packages are widely

Multimedia educational programs

are

tance learning courses in the republic, provided access to high quality telecommunications serv-

ices improves The program, which provides training in the use of the intemet, is funded by the International Research and Exchange Board, a nonprofit organization based in the US. Several companies complained that Armenof telephone services was

Tel's monopoly

slowing the development of internet technologies in Armenia because the cost of accessing the world wide web is high. Thriffs have

dropped by 40 percent, but intemet

access

remains, relatively, several times more expensive in Armenia than in many other countries. As a result, use of the internet has spread only

not affected by transportation fficulties and the costs involved in moving prodrcts to market. Salaries of software developers working for local companies range from $200 to $400 per month, depending on their expertise and experience.The rate is typically much higher among foreign companies and often starts at $600 or more per month. A study carried out by the Arcas Group, a private research company in Yerevan, recently concluded that Armenia represented the best value location in the world for IT products taking into account the "high technical level and the low cost of development". The

quality-price ratio was considerably better even than in India, where a thriving computer services industry has grown up in recent years Most Armenian experts are convinced, however, that foreign investors are attracted more by the high quality of products, meeting

international requirementg rather than by the low cost of labor. Vardanian said: "Cost effectiveness is an additional attraction for them, but the quality factor comes flrst." Tony Moroyan, president of ViaSphere International in California's Silicon Valley, established the ViaSphere Technopark in July, the fint technology park in Armenia, based at the Tiansistor plant in Yerevan. The 10,000 square meter facility is already home to four successful IT companies and offers state-of-theart infrastructure including reliable power, dat-

acommunications, and telecommunications

silldi$8,for sothmrG development teams (Arcas Survey)

connections Business incubators are also available to facilitate a quick start-up - essential in the fast-moving technology sector. Viasphere International, which has subsidiaries and partners in Japan, Italy, USA, India, and a number of European countries,

intends to provide venture capital to promote the creation of new businesses. Moroyan, a major investor in IT worldwide, believes Armenian authorities should do more to strengthen legislation conceming protection of copyright. But he noted a key element of Armenia's attractiveness for investors He said:"When we place orders in lndia,we AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1


The Arrnenian Bilns &tam*rry D*nnr Resiutry N**d* Ynur Suppnrt. Register to Become Donor

Bella Kocharian M.D. The First Lady ofArmenia and Honorary Chairperson of the Armenian Bone Marrow Donor Registry Charitable Trust was the first bone marrow donor to register.

a

It's a simple process. Anyone between the ages of 18 and 60 and in good health can give a small blood sample for tissue type

testing and listing with the Armenian Bone Marrow Donor Registry.

Join 1,500 Armenians in Los Angeles and in Yerevan who have re6iistered to donate bone marrow to a patient with the same tissue type who is suffering from leukemia

or other blood-related disease. 10,000 volunteer bone marrow donors must be recruited by the year 2004 in order to achieve the rate

of one match per 200 donors.

We frannstAIfnrrl to lffise a Single OnB..,

Opening of Recruitment Center at the Glendale Memorial Hospital in February 2001. Left to right: Bella Kocharian, M.D.; Lois Winston, Ph.D.: Frieda Jordan, Ph.D.; Sevak

Send Your Monetary Donation The Armenian Bone Marrow Registry Charitable Trust was founded in 1999 to serve patients in Armenia and in the Diaspora who suffer from blood-related diseases. The Registry established its first tissue-typing laboratory in Yerevan, Armenia, in December 2000. A satellite recruitment center and typinS laboratory was established this year at the Glendale

Memorial Hospital and Health Center, Los Angeles and the Foundation Laboratory, Glendora. The Registry has secured the cooperation ofseveral international medical centers, such as the Anthony Nolan Bone Marrow Trust in England, Glendale Memorial Hospital and St Jude Hospital in US. Plans include the establishment of recruitment centers in Europe and in the Middle East. $450,000 is needed to operate the tissue-typing laboratories with medical staff and testing equipment and to maintain a computer database for searching and matching leukemia patients with suitable bone marrow donors. Generous Srants already have been received from the Lincy Foundation, Clendale Memorial Hospital and private donations. USA Frieda Jordan, Ph.D., Chairperson 347 West Stocker Street Suite 208 Glendale, CA9I202 Phone/Fax \'qrri

818.547 .I37 4 I

Sevak Avagyan, M.D., Executive Director Fax (3741) 53 98 90 375002 Yerevan, #1A Saryan Street

E-mail abmdr@arminco.com pnone

3741.53.9880

{

J

lcnrlrrlc tr'lrl*rrri;r

I

Ilospitnl and IL'alth (lt'rrtt.r' flr-Iu. This ad has been sponsored by the Glendale Memorial Hospital.

x

ABMDR Iaboratory

in Yerevan.

r}r '

llarow Ploiecf

typing laboratory at the Foundation Laboratory in Glendora.

Armenia

''d\I'{

lrmenAm Bom

ABMDR tissue-

The Amenim Bone Mffiow Donor Registry is a nonprofit organization registered a 501O(3) under the Armenian Health Ailiance. Accredited by the Amenie govemment 6 an independent, nonprofit, non,governmental organization.

Tissue-typing is done on a small blood sample by DNA molecular typing methods.


Gouen Stony

receive accurately and on time the things we have ordered.When we place orders inArmenia, we receive accurately and on time the things we have ordered plus ten more suggestions for the development of new products" Prospects for future growth look good, providedArmenia can ensure that its telecommunications infrastructure keep pace with the demands of the industry and its education sys-

tem continues to produce intelligent, wellmotivated people. There may be concerns about both questions - but both are within Armenia's capability to fix. The economic incentive to do so is powerful. to the 2001 lndex of Economic Freedom, published by The Heritage Foundation and the Wall Street Joumal, Armenia has been making positive strides economically. kt LW, Armeniawas rated onlythe 106thmost atfiactive

According

place in

theworldforinvesfrnentout of

L6L coun-

fries in the index Sinoe then it has risen steadily, moving from 84th place last year to 68th in 2001.

By

comparison, Georgia was ranked 1L4th, Azerbaijan 139ttr, and Iran 151st in 2001. Armenia is well placed to establish itself as the powerhouse of the region for ITand e-commerce, attracting further outside investment and integrating the muntry fully into the global

HIafiiru Gonngctiolt$ UNDP Spreads Internet Links into the Regions BY HRATR SARKTS SARKTSSTAX

I LoS ANGELES

The

establisbment of the first regional center in Armenia for public intemet access andtraining brings the worldwideweb to the

ture and excessive connectivity priceg" said Christine IGrapetian,the (JNDP's information Officer in Yerevan. The Vanadzor center, the

towns and villages beyond the capital. TheVanadzor Internet Crnter in the Inri region, which opened on October 19, offen 12 worlstations,24hour internet access and group training fucilites for up to 1CI people per day. It brings the Armenian Freenet - an amss andtrainiryproject established by the

produt of a parEustrip

I

United Nations Development hogramme (LINDP) (www.undp.org) - to the regions of Aryenia for the first time, offering many more people the opportunity to become involved with information technology.

.

"OutreachtotheregionsoutsideYerevan

wm complicated by the inadequate infrastuc-

30

between

UNDP and

intemational organizations srrtr as

Pqied tlarmony,ls clannel for

a

also

IRH(

and

intendd to act as a

pimeering e-govemance initiathe

"Regional and local authorities would start, after appropriate capacity building consultations, to pilot using information and communication technologieg particularly the internet, for providing various services to society," said Karapetian. An on-line e-Forurr (wwwforum.am) has been established, which hosts groups on human righs, the environment gender issueg human develorpment and politiCIl parties

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

"The creatioo of online communities aims to help interest groups composed of NGO and govertrment rep,resentathes and independent experts dealing with respective to discrss and consolidate views and voice them vis-d-vis the decision makers and the society at large,"Karapetian said. issueg

.

Armenian Freenet has also developed

the first bilingual Armenian-English web mailer which anyone around the world can take advantage of. The inauguration of the Vanadaor cpnter took plarc as part ofevenb

marking

the International Day

for

Eradication of Foverty on October 17. The I-INDP ctrcses a theme each year md for 2001 it chme to highlight the role of information and communication tecbnologies in


Goven $tony

economy.The European Union (EU), remgrizing this potential, is sponsoring the Caucasus Information Technologies lnitiative in Yerevan, a regional conference bringng together highlevel govemment otflcialg IT professionalg educatory businesmen, and representatives of inter-

national and regional bodies Originally set for this month, the conference has been put back to April following the terror attacks on the US on September 11.

Participants are expected from the three Caucasus republics, Iran, Tirrkey and Russia as well as EU member stateq and countries with advanced IT capabilities such as Japan,

South Korea and India. The conference is part of a nine-month "e-Caucasus" initiative by the EU aimed at increasing cooperation across the region in information technology. National and regional level working groups are expected to be established after the conference, to develop an action plan for implementing ideas and programs emerging from the discussions The knowledge economy also offenArmenia

President Kochailan Gutting the ribbon with Tony Moroyan at the opening 0l lhe Viasphere Technopark in Yerevan.

achieving poverty reduction.

Democratic Governance (www.ict.am) established the internet public access and training facility Armenian Freenet (www.freenet.am).

The UNDP first anived in Armenia in L992, when the country was in dire need of emergency and humanitarian aid. As the immediate crisis passed, it shifted its focus to long term projects In 197, the organiation's

access, connectivity,

"The project was able to offer intemet web hosting and Infor-

zations and individualg mostly in Yerevan," says Karapetian. "We expect that the connectivity, access, and service standards established by the project and the Armenian Freenet will con-

mation and Communication Technologies

tinue setting the tone of ICT development

PnjedonSryport of Information Society and

(ICT) training services to over 15,fi)0 organi-

across

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

Armenia."

r

31


Gouen $tony

is geogaphy to some degree, making powerftrl use of its greatest the opportunity to escape resource

-

the brains

ofis

people.

Nevertheless there are obstacles impeding the development of the IT sector. Experts point to a lack of financial resources, the

monopolized telecommunication infrastructure, an unclear legislative environment, and management and marketing weaknesses within local companieg as well as an outdated curriculum in some local universities Directon of local companies complain that they do not enjoy the same privileges as foreign companies under the Law on Foreign Investments Businesses are looking to the Government to solve some of these problems It declared the IT industry a priority sector for economic development in December 2000 and adopted a plan to support its growth in April of this year.

Armen Grigorian, Deputy Minister of Industry and Tiade, said the development of a successful IT sector will benefit other areas of the economy and create an infrastructure for attracting further inward investment. The development of an IT industry in Armenia is an essential tool in the transition from a manufacturing to a digital economy, he said. Chookaszian believes Armenia should make the transition to a "digital society" a national priority. Flratch Bayadian, president of ITE, believes a nationwide strategy should be drawn up to ensure the spread of IT not only throughout the economy but also in society generally. There are still just 120 schools out of 1,4fi) in Armenia with computers, despite the existence of several programs, including ones sponsored by the US Government, aimed at equipping educational

[u[it tor I By HAYGAZ BAGH|AIT AilD ilARrr{E TffiACHATRIi}t IYEnEVAN

introduction of the Armenia Card marks another step on the road to the republic's development of an e-commerce infrastructure. The "ArCa" is the first debit card issued in any country of the Caucasus The system was established by Armenia's Central Bank and 11 commercial banks on October 25 with the aim of reducing the circulation of cash in the economy.

lhe !

Central Bank chairman Tigran Sargsian described the introduction of ArCa as a "revolutionary step". More than 1,000 cards have been issued already and three automaticteller machines have been installed in addition to 20 other offices where card owners can get cash. Armenia Card is also accepted in 22 shops

al service charge also 2,000 Drams The unified payment system will operate only inYerevan to start with,but it is expect-

ed to expand into other Armenian reglons and also Nagomo Karabakh in the future.A $1.5 million grant from USAID helped with the implementation of theArCa card. Smbat Nasibian, governor of Yerevan's

Converse Bank, said the introduction of ArCa meant that greater transparency and financial accountability was required for every shop or restaurant involved in the unified payment system. The Crntral Bank has a 44 percent stake inArCa with the rest divided equally among the 11 commercial banksThey are:Ardshin,

HSBC-Armenia, Armeconom, Artsakh,

and restaurants

Anelik, CreditYerevan, Agdcultural Coopra-

The network of shops and restaurants where people can use the card is expected to grow to 200 soon and at least seven other automatic teller machines are planned. Bank customers can buy an Armenia Card for 2,fi)0 Drams (about $3.50) plus an annu-

tive, Armimpex, Development, Credit-

institutions with modern technology and internet access.

"It is the same as if one blackboard had to be shared by 100 teachers with one pen for every 1,000 pupils," said Lusine Janoyan, board member of the American Chamber of Commerce. The Armenia Connectivity 2000 program

backed by the US State Department provides schools with computers and network links to enable them to access the internet and form an online educational community. Ejmiatsin School #2, one of the largest in the

Armavir region, and Ashtarak

Secondary School #1 were two of the latest institutions to be hooked up to the scheme.

Grigorian is confldent that many of the in the way of IT development in

obstacles

Armenia can be overcome. He said: "There is the will, the people and the resources to achieve a technological breakthrough and to succeed."

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

Service, and Converse.

The Armenian Card is expected to be certified by Europay next year, allowing customers to access money from their accounts tkough teller machines acros Europe.

!


/ulI

SHOPPING IN YEREUAN ALSO

HOTEI SHOUSH! USA EAT

Atl0 DRIl'lK SP0TS GtOBAt CALE]IDAR


Shop Armenia

ffiffiffiffiwffiwreffiiilfef rExT BY SAr.Pr HARoUTllllAl{ GHAZARIAil

I

YEREVAN

bu've been to Armenia. You're surprised at how comfortable you feel there and don't quite know how to share that feeling with your friends and family bacJ< home. After all, they either think this place is somewhere between purgatory and hell or, at best, they see Armenia's lifesryle and tourism environment as falling somewhere between Charles Dickens's London and John Steinbeck's Califomia. So what gifts can you take that are more useful than a wooden khachkar or an obsidian necklace? How about slick leather pants or a scented candle? Yes, from Armenia - these and other gift items are available in Armenia, if you only know where to go shopping. And these wonderful shopping places are not for tourists. After all, there is a small but growing middle and professional class in Yerevan that makes a decent living. After these (mostly young) professionals meet their basic expenses, they are left with what economists call'discretionary income'.

The rest of us call this shopping money. So here's a ready guide on where to shop in Armenia.

!nkeron

On Toumanian, near Mashtots This store is a new experience for Armenia, nothing sold here is essential to daily life, but everything there makes life more enjoyable. The store is fundamentally a candle store - candles of different colors, shapes, textures, and scents are available, together with the candleholders, candlestids, vases, bowls and other items that make candles beautiful gifts and unusual souvenirs. $2 and up.

because

Manu!

On Mashtots, near Amirian Manul means jaguar, and the quality of all the leather goods in this store are deserving of the name that has come to mean class and chic. Manul sells its own locally designed and sewn accessories, made with imported Italian leather. Purses here can compete with the best Italian or Spanish products. Beautiful colors, clean work, slidg contemporary designs. It's obvious that the designer follows the Prada, Louis Vuitton and Fenaghmo sryles, but has the audacity and confidence not to copy them. Instead, there is originality and innovation in these designs. Belts, cellular phone holders, eyeglass cases, briefcases - Manul's products are impeccable, the taste refined and the service warm and friendly. $35 and up.

AIM DESTINATIONS NOVEMBER

2OO1

Merci On Derian, near Moskovian These Frendr-made accessories run the

gamut from faux bijoux to beads to silver and gold-plated necklaces, eanings, brooches and bracelets. Beautifully presented, with very friendly service, these unusual desigps are perfect for all tastes from the traditional to the hip and funky. $5 and up.


Shop Armenia

SIL Plaza

lrcnt in

:r socretY \\-ltere shoppir-rg used

On Abovian, near Republic Sclurrc

bc scen

.rs .r

The clozen or so stores in this snrall shopping center include a few clothing outlcts. One of thenr features the won.rcr.r's clothing line CopoCopine of Paris. Very rc:rsonably pricecl and accessiblv clispl.ryed, the skirts, swe.lters, jackets ar.rd pents available hcre are exactlv rvhat one would fjnd irr any Western boutique, but at prices that are llr nrorc reasonlble. $29 and up.

Papagallo

On Abovr.rn, ne.rr Rcpublrc Square

()ltt,rl- l'.ryr.tg.1ll,,'r rrrosl irrlt'rt,rtrrrE (ontribr-rtions to thc insritutior.r of-shopping in Ycrcr-.tn is tlrc clecorated store window. Tshirts. jclns, sweaters, coats, boots lnd belts

lego

On Tounranian, near Abovi.rn (in SII- Plazr) That's right. Lego. Boxcs of .rll sizes, fionr the Star Wars kits rvhich rtre harcl to Hncl in the US to the st:rnd.rrcl colorf.ul builcling blocks that allow cre.rtivc l<rcls (rrnd tlreir patient parents) to builcl sp.rccships, fir.nrs, schools, hospitals and robots. Kicls will cnjoy the shelves that are lined with Lcgo-built parks and tovs to keep thenr busy and happy

Astafian Center Orr Abovitr, lrelr Tounrrrri.-ur The handful of stores in this slnall shopping center includes a purse and shoes storc c.rllecl Max Viva. Neither the boots nor rlre purses here arc irrexpensive, but even,thing is clegrrnt encl niccly c'lisplayecl. The staff is reacly tc'r proviclc thc scnice thrt goes.1long witlr thcir prices rrncl l purse that is received as a gifi rncl has tl're trgs irttached rnay even be exchangcdl No snr.rll .rchievef,eed*e#"

.;,..,;*"

"

-*-

to

nccessitv not a pleasure.

L***,

cenrer

AIM DI]STINATIONS NOVEMBER

2(}0I

grace the rr;tnnccluins, wl'rich are regularly drcssed and dccorltecl. flrere is

everything here to ntake a hip voungster happy. Papagrrllo's nrerchandise is lionr Europe. Thc taste is young ancl the prescntirtion and service equal to a clothing boutique ir.r Lexington or [-ondon. The prices are surprisir.rgll, cheap ancl aflbrclable. '[-hc clothes are intended fbr those young, adults


Shop Armenia

who want to be able to update their wardrobes with the latest trends, and are not concemed with durability or ageless designs. Sharan Graft Gerter On Aygestan Beautifully kniq hand-made sweaterc and dothes for young kids would make wonderfirl gifts from Armenia. And since litde gup don t know enough to complain, you cltrl even have them wear the soft, colorfirl wool ouds that grandmothers and auns would love to buy. Sharan's wooden producs are also easy to transport and elegant to display in a living room or office. Hand{aryed desk accessories, candleholden and traln for the living room, are all uniquely Armenian in their decorative elements.

AgZag On,{bovian, at

Sayat Nova; Also on Mashtots near Tumanian It's true you can buy electronic gizmos from the airport or the local electronics store. But, imagine their reaction when you buy the latest hi-tec} gadget in Armenia and present it as a gift from Yerevan. Recording devices, tiny televisions or radios, ear-


Shop Armenia

phones, CD-players, rnulti-task clocks they're all available here made by such familiar names as Sony and Panasonic. A Capella

On Komitas Pick your fabric, show up at this small shop that produces miracles and tell them wl-rat you want them to sew. If you make tl.ris visit early during your stay, you can leave just a week or 10 days later with a suit, a coat, or any other piece ofapparel that you desire. Much closer than Hong Kong, but with the same special custon-r service.

Meshok Babig On Tigran Mets A children's toy store that stock stulIi:d animals, dolls, some board games, children's videos (in Armer.riar.r, of course) and construction toys. All easily transportable and fun to give. Also crayons, coloring books, nrarkers and activity book good for local gifis as well. Tufenkian Show Boom On Tumanian, near Abovian The TLfenkian-designed, Armenia-pro-


Shop Armenia

duced furniture is as beautiful and durable as his designer calpets. But the most practical and easy to transport gifts are Tirf-enkiar.r's unique hand-made wool afgl.rans. They are terrific one-oFa-ldnd gifts fion.r Armer.ria, available in diflbrent sizes iind colors. And cheaper than designer-store prices in tl-re W'est. S100 and up.

gns + 0n0 On Abovi.rn, rte,tr Moskovi.ttt Imported home accessories, dishes, glasses, tea pots. They rnake grert gifis if you are visiting friends and family in town. Packed right, they're can't-go-wrong gifis fbr almost anyone on your list at home too. Artbridge Bookstore [and cal6] Orr Ahovi.rrr, rre.rr Turn.tniln Every attractive recent Arrnenian publication is available here. Some are autographed.

All

can be Fed-Exed.

55+up Petit Eateau

On Ahovian, nelr Morkovian

The internatior-ral childrer.r's store h:rs arrived in Yerevan. Nice, French-made cl.rildren'\ Lotton clotlrirrg. Swcrters, iulttperr, layettes, and everything else a selflrespecting

Mashtots near Tirmanian Clothing for men and women, designed ir-r Hong Kong, manufactured in China, and brought to Armenia by Jack Maxian, the

child rreeds. Friendly lnd p.rtient

businessman-philanthropist-Melkor.rian School graduate. Casual and sports clothing in easy-to-wear designs and fabrics are practical gifts both fbr yourself and those at l-rome who may consider travelir-rg to Arnreni:r. They n'rake exceller-rt travel clothirrg, toor

Maxlield On Abovian, at Sayat Nova; Also

WE SHIP IHROUGHOUT

IHE CAUCASUS A]ID All OVER IHE WORID APAVEN CO. [TD. !reighl [orwording Compony

in 1993 FIAIA qssociab member since 1997

Founded

ser.',ice

makes tl.re shopping easier. $10 and up.

or.r


Children's Dominoes Encourage matching, counting and coordination, while stimulating the imagination. These charming 1.5" x 3" wooden pieces are hand painted with animals in a traditional Armenian style. As children learn to recognize the shapes, they also acquire an appreciation for the traditional Armenian illumination style. 10 pieces in a colorful, custom made bag.

$30.00

fumenian Alphabet Puzzle Assemble these random shapes by following the chart and learn how to form letters lrom the Armenian Alphabet. This collection of stained wooden pieces come in its own sack. Made in Armenia comes with 20 pieces and chart.

$25.00

Game ol Stones This ancient game 0f stones comes in its own wooden box. lncludes a book of instructions for B different games. The hand painted traditional details will occupy children s minds as they enjoy playing the games ol their grandparents.

$35.00

Building Blocks These beautifully handcrafted building blocks will provide hours of inspiration for the youngest child as well as the budding new architect. They are embellished with Armenian manuscript designs and traditional motifs. A toy that can be passed on from generation to

generation. lncludes

.11

pieces in a custom-made bag.

$35.00


m ffiffi F-.Y.#k-

ln Armenian, adapted from their original English versions (24-32 pages each). Written By: Robert Munsch & Michael Martchenco lllustrated By: Helene Desputeaux & Michael Martchenco. Adapted By: Arpi & Asbed Panossian. For ages 3-10. Price $6.00 each $25.00 for all 5

-

Above, left to right.

.

Angelayeen 0danavuh (Angela's Airplane) Hurchechneru Gayaranuh (The Fire Station) o Tookhteh Dohragov lshkhanuheen (The Paper Bag Princess) o Manishakaguyn, Ganach yev Tegheen (Purple, Green, and Yellow)

.

.

Trchunneru Khnjuykuh (Birds' Banquet)

Armenian language book available in both Western and Eastern Armenian.

A Weave ol Words: An Armenian Tale

Pokrig Trchooneh (The Little Bird) Written by Aida Pogharaian lllustrated by Uatche Mavlian

Written by Robert D. San Souci lllustrated by Raul Golon

This book tells the story of a little girl named Lori who saves a bird from the claws o{ a cat, and therelore gets her wish ol having a pet bird.

24 pages (For ages 4-9)

Ghanteuns De L'ecole Tebrotzassere, Garoun Yegav.

,t, [?,'lxi,T,L',"'J,,,

Armenian with international rhythms. This wonderful collection ol songs and poetry

Association des dames Armeniennes Amies Des Ecoles

offers basics such as the Armenian alphabet,

$15.00

Tebrotzassere CD TEB 001. This childrens

choir and its young soloist produce a classically Earthy Armenian sound over synthisized and traditional instuments. Along with an upbeat tempo that will keep your head

Pyunic Holiday Cards

bobbing throughout the entire album.

$15.00 The Cycle ol Lile: Songs for the Soul Performed by Parik Nazailan Each of these songs is a page of life, a minor of a time, a link to history,

sung with the occa-

sional accompaniment of duduk, dhol and shvi. $15.00

a

Les Petits

2 Mavrer

the whole family.

book with beautiful illustrations, is a blending of a handful of Armenian folktales woven into story of adventure, love, and wisdom. (For ages 6-9)

$8.00

counting, days of the week, and parts ol the body. Though targeted for preschool age children, this CD offers a variety ol fun for

tsBN# 053130056 Published in 1998, this hard-covered, 3O-page

Martiros Sailan

ffi

was graced

with the talent of discovering simple artistic formula that

a

epitomized his native land. This collection of postcards captures the vibrant color and enchanting settings Sarian was devoted to.

Postcards 4.5 X 6". Pack of

'15

Full-Color

for $15.00

Unique cards featuring the artworks made by the disabled children in Armeniaa during summer capms at Lake Sevan. Portion of proceeds benefit Pyunic, the Association for the Disabled in Armenia. Six original designs -'12 cards with envelopes.

Full-Golor Gards 4.5 X 6.5" (Six original designs in each pack) Pack of 12 for $10.00


II Silk

Armenia: A Historica! Atlas By Robeil H. Hewsen

Medallion

Jade Fars

; Maroon Bokhara

Mouse Rugs

The finest and most comfortable computer mouse surface available. Modeled on real hand-woven oriental carpets, this mousepad adds elegance to any workstation. Dimensions 7 j25 x 10.25"

The University of Chicago Press 0-226-33228-4 This 340-page ,17"x11" 10 lb. atlas covers every aspect of Armenian ancient and modern history. With a 25 page bibliography, a 20 page map index, and278 full-color maps, this one-of-a-kind work covers all of Armenian and Caucasian history and geography from pre-

,

$22.00 each or 3 lor $60.00

historic times to the present day, with detailed economic, social, religious, linguistic and political maps of Armenia, the Caucasus and the Armenian Diaspora. This extensively detailed and informative piece of work took Hewsen, a professor of Russian and Byzantine history at Rowan University in New Jersey, 19 years to complete. This valuable gem ol a gift will be appreciated lor decades.

A series of poem-like, lyrical chapters on the lives of men, women and children trying to live through the

$150.00 Shipping within the US: $15.00

$24.00

Three Apples Fell lrom Heaven By Michele Aharonian Marcom tsBN 1-57322-186-4

horrors of 1915-1918 in 0ttoman Turkey.

Additional charges lor Canada and lnternational orders still apply.

Fragile Dreams

Out ol Stone

By

Forgotten Fire Adam Bagdasarian

Armenia

tsBN 0-7894-2627-7

Photography and Text by

Photography by

The hero, Vahan Kenderian, is the youngest son of a

Robeil Kurkjian and Matthew Karanian

Antoine Agoudjian

well{o-do and close knit

150 vivid full color images made during the years 1995 through 1999 capturing moments in time, peoples'

family living in Turkey. When 12-year-old Vahan s uncle disappears, his father

-

is taken away and two brothers are shot in the family garden, Vahan's life is changed. A very accessible, yet intense, novel aimed at both

expressions and beautiful landscapes.

children and adults. Winner of 13 awards.

1999, Stone Garden Productions, Washington DC, ISBN 0-9672120-0-6

$18.00

Deluxe Hard Cover Edition

-

Armenia

Artsakh

184 pages.

More than 150 black and white photos from 1989 to 1 998 depict various moments of joy and pain in the lives of Armenians after the earthquake. Paperback

-

80 pages.

$20.00 1999, Actes Sud, France, ISBN 2-7427-2316-1

$50.00

Wall of Silence The Unspoken Fate of the

The Philatelic

Yavaylen(Elc.l

Armenians

History ol Armenia

Written & performed by

Produced and directed by

Dr. Zareh Hovanesian This 357-page hardcover book is a true philatelic study, with detailed information on

Vahe Berterian

Dorothee Forma

86 minutes (Only available in

An unprecedented documentary on the Armenian Genocide. The film presents the lives and schol-

everything from postmarks to postcards.

an instant hit in the summer of

arship of two historians

2000. The multi-camera pro-

AkEam and Armenian professor Vahakn Dadrian.

Examples of each stamp in the history of Armenia are given in lull color photographs. This is a work of lasting importance.

duction was taped during a live performance. Berberian touches upon his child-

Video Documentary - 54 Minutes. Please specify (VHS NTSC oT PAL),

hood experiences, takes a humorous and insightful

Available exclusively through AIM.

$80.00

look at Armenian society and diaspora.

$25.00

VHS NTSC) Vahe Berberian's hilarious and engaging monologue in Armenian, became

$20.00

-

Turkish Scholar Taner


Gross Pendant

Authentic Team Armenia Soccer Jersev

Hung from an 18" suede cord, this stylish 2 3/4" bronze cross is made in Armenia.

Available in adult large & X-large sizes only. Add

Embellished with beautiful, varying colored

$5.00 for US ground shipping and $15 for US

stones. Each cross comes in its own hand made wooden box. $29.00

overnight.

Price does not include shipping and sales tax.

$74.99. Now reduced $69.99

Traditional Salt Dispenser &

Tabletop Salt & Pepper Shakerc This pair ol clay dispensers, resembling Karabakh's symbolic grandmotherand grand-

Ancient Srjep Replica

Gandleholder

Meticulously handcrafted of clay in traditional

Also handcrafted in clay,

father, are hand made. No two are exactly

Armenian style. Will give your colfee a velvety

comes with a hand carved spoon used to

alike.

old world flavor. $20.00

sc00p salt out 0f the goddesss belly.

$20.00

$14.00

IIMIRIGTPI.IGE ORIIER TORM Item Name

Unit Price

Quantity

Total Price

Ordered by

Address

Shipping Costs

Sales Tax [on CA orders only: 8.00%1 $25.01 to $45 add $10. $45.01 to $65 add $15. Shipping & Handling $65.01 to $85 add $20. $85.01 and over add $30. Total Add an additional $5 to Canada orders. Add an additional $10 to international orders

C

Check Enclosed Payable to

Mail 0rderc. AlM. 207

zip

Subtotal

Up to $25 add $7.

Credit Card Account No

AIM

Charge my

'

C

MC

C

Visa

C

Phone

t

Ship to

Amex

Expiration Dats

South Brand Blvd. Suite 203. Glendale. CA 91204 USA. Phone

City

State

zip

0rders 818.246.7979. Fax Orders 818.246.0088


Hotels

::::stins**prrncrpre I I f ifi the ciesolauon of war on three tn! sides and a view of God's palace I I out its front door, the ne* Hotel Shoushi is an aberration and a symbol. Raised in the decay of a post-war Karabakh, where there are more remnants of buildings than useable ones, the hotel offers !flestem comfort and convenience in a com-

munity of

distress.

The new and only hotel in the town of Shushi opened September 24, offering nine double rooms and three singles in the hope that its presence can revive its sunoundings. "We have to lure people to Shushi," says Apo Boghigian. "lt's a ghost

general manager

town now."

And so the new hotel Suilt by eight Americans and one lrbanese) is itself a tourist attraction - intended to make it worth the time to find it. Only 10 kilometers from Stepanakert, where rooms with half the quality cost twice the price, tle owners of Hotel Shoushi are hopeful their investrnent will pay offin dividends that benefit the community. 'TV'e're not after profit," Boghigian says. '"U(l'e want to make Shushi a viable city again. There are only 2,500 people in the ciry. We can make a difference here." Already, Hotel Shoushi has made a difference for the 20 families represented in the hotel staff, and for farmers whose egg and dreese business has increased to serve the hotel. "In the last eight years, nothing has moved in Shushi," Boghigian says. 'lVhen I see the eyes of our workers, they are so happy to have jobs. I am ludry to be working with investors who don't ask more from their

investment." The hotel is located across a field from the recendy rebuilt Armenian Church and the overall construction plan is to build a children's park benveen the church and the hotel. Boghigian says that projea should be completed next year, on May 9 the day Shushi was "liberated" in the war with Azerbaijan. The inhabitants of the once vibrant and

artsy city get water one-half hour a day. Visitors to the hotel have it round the clod<, hot or cold, with choice of bath or shower. (The hotel has an agreement with the local fue department that, in tle event that city water isn't available, truds come to fill the hotel reservoirs.) Plush hotel towels the size of doorways complete the rare indulgence of relative excess. ln difierent surroundings, Hotel Shoushi

would be a $100 a night luury. (Recendy built hotels in nearty Stepanakert cJrarge $40 to $50.) But at Hotel Shoushi, Westem*tyle comfort costs $18 (two nrin bed$ and $25 (queensize bed, coucfi, armoire) induding brealdast. Dinner in the hotel restaurant is $6 per guest

and offers tVestem-Armenian styled dishes. The interior style is more Scandinavian than the typical post-Soviet fashion of the regiorl with fumiture made in Armenia and seleaed by the hotel's interior designer, Alice Attarian, who moved from Greece to live in Shushi. In its first month, Hotel Shoushi had

around 100 guests, most coming from tour agencies with whom the hotel has a coopera-

tion agreement. Boghigian is well aware that his hotel isn't on the main road to anywhere. But the business risk comes relatively cieaply. The total investment so far has been $140,000 and another $20,000 will complete the project. Boghigian says the hotel needs only 1,000 guest in the next year to operate successfully. Few guests are expected during the winter but "against all advice, I'm going to keep all the employees year-round," Boghigian says. Tourists who book their visit through Yerevan travel agencies will be taken direcdy to Hotel Shoushi. And, during next yea/s tourist season, Hotel Shoushi will offer a shutde service between Shushi and Stepanakert.

Eventually, the investors of the hotel hope to expand their involvement in the community with plans that include building a youth center r


Restaurants

USAEatffillri rtk

pot$ lage

ofsand and rocks as the fagade ofthe in crates hanging on

bar, and wine botdes

lJ5!

r(

Monk 309 East 5th Street, New Yorh New York Located on a quiet side street in Manhattan's East Mllage, Monk offers a wonderful blend ofArmenian and European cuisines. Proprietor Garren Petrossian, who says he was raised in a serious family of food in Yerevan, wanted to surround himself with the foods he grew up with. Petrossian's father ran the second largest greenhouse in Yerevan, where he grew some of the more unusual mushrooms and other vegetables. His mother worked for an intemational food company. The blending of those two worlds, in addition to milhng cows, fresh herbs and cheeses, and smelling lavash being made on tonir, has been the inspiration and driving force behind Patrossian's desire to open a restaurant. So he did, four years ago. Monk has a warm, inviting and comfortable atrnosphere, decorated with a few Armenian rugs, a colD12

the walls. The menu, reasonably priced, is as eclectic as Petrossian's bad<ground and interests. Bom in Yerevan, he moved to [,os Angeles with his family at the age of 14. later, he moved to Boston where he worked in hotels and restaurants while studying sculpture at the Museum of Fine Arts. Upon graduation, Petrossian lived betrveen Boston, New Yorh Italy and Greece pursuing his sculpting, writing poetry and leaming the restaurant business. "I wanted to stay in Italy and sculpg but there was a language barrier," sap Petrossian. "After getting Europe out of my head, I moved to New Yor( where I feel most at home.o Having worked in the restaurant business for over 12yean, Petrossian decided to open his own. ri7ith litde capital and plenty of determination and family support, he found his ideal location in the East Vrllage. "I gutted the entire place. My brother and cousin came fiom Los Angeles and together we laid the wood floors, built the tables and decorated. My mother also came from [,A and helped me experiment with different foods, create the menu, and work in the kitchen," he says. Shortly thereafter, Monk was ready for business, and the customers have been coming ever since. In faa, Monk has been the only listing underArmenian resaurans in New YorlCs highly selective Zagat Resaurant Guide. Petrosian is executive dref and the sousdref is his cousin, Karine Petrossian, formerly an economics professor at the American University of Armenia, who moved here a year ago. The items on Monk's menu are as delectable as they are original. Trout Papillote is ffout, whicl reminds Petrossian of the ishkhan fish, with fresh seasonal herbs, wrapped in lavash and baked. The fish comes out very moist and full of flavor, and is

AIM DESTINATIONS NOVEMBER

2OO1

served

with pomegranate

seeds.

Another item is basturma served over a bed

offield

greens. The Beet Tartar is a

variation ofwhat Petrossian remembers from his childhood and is offered periodically as a special appetizer. It is made with shredded beets covering a mixture of sour cream, gar-

lic, walnuts and fresh dill. The aubergine (eggplant) sdad is a mixture of airdried eggplant, yogurt and walnuts wrapped in saut6ed eggplant. And the potato crepes, his mothe/s recipe - a variation of the Russian blincl-rik - is a mixture of potato, shallots, tomatoes, cilantro, parsley and cumin, wrapped in pasa dough and deep fried, served with a mustard, yogurt, sour cream and garlic dip. "And mucl more to come," says Petrossian. The much more is not limited to Monk. At 35, Petrossian seems to be just starting, although many could say that he has already made it in the big city. Early next year, Petrossian plans to open his fust cafe, Lala, also in the East Village, offering the best of Europe and the Americas at affordable prices. -Iext by Hrair Saftis Sarkissian Photo by Eric ilazarian


Restaurants

Fauorite Place

Aromi Gat6

l15 Vest Wilson Av, Glendale Califomia

14531 Ventura Blvd, Sherman Oals

On IiTilson Avenue in Glendale sits a smdl English teahouse hidden between

businesses is the

aZ,any Bratny Children's store and a watch repair shop. Favorite Place is Alissa Asmariart's vision of a cozy hideaway and it has been an instant hit with the community at large. This quaint tea shop seems so inviting with lovely clina and fresh flowen everywhere. Asmarian was recendy elected as a recipi. ent of the 2001 Women in Business Award, presented on behalf of local legislators to honor the role ofwomen in small business. Asmarian received the small businesswoman of the year award. It's a Wednesday aftemoon, long past the lundr hour rush that usually fills this small space which has a capacity for only 30 drairs. Two women are having aftemoon tea at a table by the window, and by the sound of things they are regulars. Today they are relishing the quiet of the day, unwinding slowly. A cup oftea or coffee here can be a way to replenish the soul as these women have discovered. The simple yet carefully planned

Fastachi

Califomia An

Squeezed between rows ofeateries and

fuomi

Cafe.

Opera of Nuts 203 Belmont Street Belmont Massachusetts and World Trade Center 200 Seaport Blvd Boston Massac-husetts

A relative newcome! this Ialian cafe has been competing with neighboring restauranb and major frandrises since opening less than a year a8o.

AI6ed fuhajanian, 34, fed up with his previous job as a constructo! decided to put to use the experience and knowledge he gained while living in Italy for eight years. Serving a variety ofsandwicles, salads, and imported pastries, it is the taste oflaly that draws residens and the business community alike. "The Ialian gelato, the best ice cream in the world, is what brings my customen badc Once they taste the low calorie, low fat ice cream in a variety of fruit flavon, it is hard for them not to come bad(," sqrs Aghajanian. r0Uith soft music and Italian scenery fuomi offers a cozy atrnosphere from 7am

until

midnight. -Text and Phdo [y Pafk ilazadan

as late as

Souren Etyemenzian, who came to the United States fiomJordan in 1982, established the first of rwo stores in 1990 after leaming how to roast nuts from a friend in Los Angeles. Three years later he manied Susan and the business became more focused and formal. Fastachi offers its customers not just nuts, but a vast array of items such as various nut butters and flours, hand-dipped chocolates, veggie snads, dried fruit mixes, and candied nuts and fruits. All items are prepared on the premises and are also available through the company's website (www.fastachi.com). There, you can order an item or make your own gift basket, which the Etyemenzians will ship anywhere in the

world. -Text and Photos by Ueem lhilarabelian

menu is full of delighs such as From Russia with [ove, a delectable Russian ham sandwich or the Orienal chid<en sandwicl. Asmarian is the former owner of a successful flower and desigrr shop. Her flair for desigrr is evident throughout her new ven-

ture, which opened in May. '1 enjoyed working in the flower indusry very mudr and loved my zuccess but I had so litde time to spendwith my drildren and family. So between my love for cooking and design I wanted to combine the two." AtFarorite Plae,Asmarian has doneiurt drat -Text and ffioto by Eliza Galhyan

AIM DESTINATIONS NOVEMBER

2OO1

D13


Restaurants

l,laha 500 North Clark, Chicago, Illinois

NAHA is the latest creation of Carrie Nahabedian, the former executive chef of the Four Seasons in Beverly Hills. Nahabedian, ttre owner-chee and her cousin Michael, who manages the business side, have fashioned an inesistible new restaurant in which the sleek minimalist d6cor is enhanced by the elegantly rich flavors of the menu. The dishes explore Nahabedian's Armenian roots while the ambiance at NAHA lends itself to the hip and chic. For starters try the Tartare of Big Eye Ahi Tirna, cured wild King Salmon and Russian Oscietta Caviar with a mosaic of vegetables, Nicoise gamishes and Aigrelette sauce. Then there is the roast leg of lamb, marinated in mint and lemon, and served with braised young potatoes, oven-cured tomatoes, cippolini onions, and organic white

eggplant in a natural jus with confit garlic and flat leaf parsley. The menu is bursting with more of these exotic items, awaiting

the palate. NAIIA should be on the to-do list for your next trip to Chicago.

-Iext and Photo

By Eliza Galfayan

Shfuing to Arnenls by Ah ot Sa, csll...

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Attractions

GlohalGalendar SacrcdSpaees September 9 2001-- March

l0

20ill2

lnherihnGe

In the Hall of Tolerance, exhibit

AEirl'$lUar

features an extensive and in depth analysis of the Armenian Genocide. Virtual tour available.

Benefit Performance November 29 2001- 7:30 pm Through December 16 2001

Florida Holocaust Museum

A play set in

55 Fifth Street South St. Petersburg Florida www.fl holocaustmuseum.org

lrt & lmqca Bc1nrNl I $lcnd ffi March8-April2620[,2

a remote Armenian village in war-tom Karabakh and in New York City.

Opening night proceeds to benefit the Oncology Hospital in Yerevan, Armenia.

Armeniallluminated Old Trsasuros and

llsw AcquislUons

Exhibit reflecting the silencing of the Armenian Genocide by Ottoman Turkey and the impressions it has left on the lives ofthe artists. Featured artists include Tina Bastajian, Jean Marie Casbarian, Eileen Claveloux, Jacqueline Doumanian, Dahlia Elsayed, Elisa Khachian, Noami M. Pridjian, John Mahtesian, Eileen Shahbazian.

Sponsored by: Armenian lntemational

Beacon Street Gallery

W'omen's Association, Inc.

4131 North Broadway Chicago Illinois 50513

htp ://inheritance.beaconst.org

September 14 2001-January 13 zWz

Boston Playwights' Theatre

New exhibition of Armenian illuminated manuscripts and books. Part of "Collecting for the Centuries," drawn fiom the permanent collection.

emedzorian@aol.com

949 Commonwealth Ave Boston Masadrusefls

Pierpont Morgan Library 29 East 35th Street New York New York www.morganlibrary.org

Ihm Peonle Galled Arnienians

October 19 - December 9 2001

Exhibit includes Armenian manuscripts and printed matter from l6th to 18th centuries from Venice, Amsterdam and Constantinople; Arrnenian scientific work; German press coverage of the Armenian Qrestion, theological studies, maps of Armenia, and paintings.

llher Minds

HtualI

Becade

Marclr 7 -9 2002

dR$iesemeilt

Showcases new and unusual world music with concerts and artists forums.

December 8 2001

Tenth anniversary benefit celebration honoring the American Univenity of fumenia sponsored by the Board of Trustees of AUA and the Armenian General Benevolent Union. Master of ceremonies Govemor George Deukmejian; keynote speakers Senator Mitch McConnell and US Secretary of Labor Elaine Chao.

Beverly Hilton Hotel 9875 \?fuhire Boulevard Bevedy Hills Califomia 818.955.845s

Wissenschafiszentrum Bonn Ahrstrasse 45 Bonn Germany r.kantian@t-online.de

Charles Amirkhanian, executive and

artistic director ofthe Festival, features contemporary composers and musicians fromJapan, Cuba, New Zealand, Africa, and the US

including renowned Brazilian composer Ricardo Tacuchian. Various Thcuchian compositions will be performed including "Paprica" (1999) and

"Impulsos No. 2" (1980). Palace of Fine Arts Theatre 3301 Lyon Street San Francisco Califomia

www.otherminds.org

AIM DESTINATIONS NOVEMBER

2OO1




Nation

A fislurhlru [Bath A Night of Violence Turns Spotlight on President's Bodyguards BY TONY HALPIN I LOS ANGELES

-a a5

l hc violent death of ir man at onc

o1'

Ycrcvan's nrost 1-ropular nightspots has sprrrkcd uidcsprclrrl Pul.lic c,rnlrovcrsv irt

Armcnia. The reason'l lhe victirn.43-1'earold Poghos Poghositrn. is alleged to havc becn beaten and

kicked to clcath in an attack involving members of President Robert Kocharian's bodyguard.

Tko bodvguards were

suspended and a high-level criminal investigation launched fol-

krwing the incident at thc Poplavok club on

apparently frcm concern lbr their own saf'ctY

September 24. Kocharian was at the club that night. entertaining French-Armcnian singer Charles Aznavour. Poplavok is a tavorite of local and

accounts oI what happened vary considcrably.

Diaspora celebrities and dignitaries and on the night Poghosian died those present included Djivan Gasparian and Nune Yesayan.

Although the club was full of people

-

many of whom have been atiaid to speak out,

AIM NOVEMBER

20OI

Some reporls had Poghosian

drunk

and

shouting abuse towards Kocharian as the President and his party left the club. They claimed Poghosian. who was visiting Yerevan fiom the Armenian-populated Javakhk region of Georgia, had called Kocharian "Robik" and

used an Azeri term meaning "uncle" as an intentional slight on the President's origins in


lllation

what was then Azeri-controlled Karabakh.

A

second version

of

events suggested

Poghosian approachedAznavour to ask for an

autograph and on his way to the table, bumped into one of Kocharian's bodyguards Then, as the President was leaving the club, Poghosian, described as drunk, said something

insulting to Kocharian and was shoved backward by two bodyguards A third account, however, involves Poghosian simply calling out "hello Charleq hello Kocharogly" as Amavour and Kocharian passed his table on their way out. Residents in Poghosian's village of Jigrashen have described his greeting to the President as

a salute of sorts It's actually a Tirrkish honorific. But the President's bodyguards apparently took what Poghosian said as an insult. In all three version$ there is a common thread to what happened next. Around midnight, after they had escorted the President home, a number of Kocharian's bodyguards and their associates - the figures range from three to seven men in total - are said to have retumed to the club and confronted Poghosian. They then allegedly dragged him to the toilets,

down a short flight of stairs from the main room, and beat him to death before leaving. Nobody, however, has admitted publicly to witnessing this. Employees of Poplavok later described the men's room as "full of blood". Armenia's for-

mer Health Minister Gagik Stamboltsian was among the first at the scene and described how he saw two men holding up Poghosian's lifeless body, which had been doused with water

in efforts to revive him. One of the men was Yerevan architect Stepan Nalbandian, according to the victim's nephew Samuel Poghosian. He told AIM that Nalbandian had tried to intervene during the attack, but had been punched and held back from entering the bathroom. "Stepan was being held back at the door and he could see my uncle trying to cover his head," Poghosian said. When the attack ended,Nalbandian was first into the toilets to help his friend. Poghosian's face was swollen and bleeding.

"Stepan started splashing water on him

because Poghos was still making some noise at that point. But when the doctors came, he had already died," said Poghosian. 'All of his face was covered in bruises and cutsThe back of his head looked Iike he might

have been hit with the butt of a gun." He insisted that Poghosian, owner of a plastics factory and a father-of-three,was an admirer of Kocharian and would not have said anything insulting to him. One resident of the dead man's village said the term "ogly" was an "honored title" meaning "son" in a positive way.

According to family memberg Poghosian, community leader in his home village, made trips to Yerevan about twice a month. His last trip had two purposes: to meet with an architect about an Armenian-American sponsored a

school construction program in his region, and to be on hand during celebrations of the

Bodyguards who had escorted Kocharian to Poplavok that evening were relieved of duty once it became clear from the press "that the

President's security staff were connected to the case".

Aznavour issued a statement in France on October 1, denying any knowledge of Foghosian or the events leading up to his death. "Nobody tried to draw near to me, neither when I arrived nor when we were having dinner (with the President), and not when we left the place," Amavour said. "Sitting next to hesident Kocharian, I did not notice anything out of the ordinary and neither did those who were with me." A special team has been set up in the Yerevan prosecutor's office to conduct the

investigation. More than

a

month after

of the adoption of

Poghosian's death, however, no charges have been brought against anyone.

Armenia's State religion. In Jigrashen - its name means literally "village built from the heart" - residents recalled him as a humanitarian who brought several

admitted in a nationally-televised interview that there was intense pressure to prosecute

1700th anniversary Christianity

as

families to his home after the 1988 earthquake in Armenia and had sponsored the families of 15 soldiers killed during the Karabakh war. Among other things,Poghosian was aprominent member of the Armenian Revolutionary Federation or Dashnaktsutiun. Irading party figures were present at his funeral, where par-

liamentary deputy Vahan Hovhannisian told mourners: "He became a victim of evil intent

in his fatherland."

An early official account of events at Poplavok, however, suggested that Poghosian died of a heart attack. As the furore grew, this was quickly discounted. Kocharian initially refused all comment. But two bodyguards were suspended from duty and the president summoned the Minister of Internal Affairs Haik Haroutunian and the Prosecutor General Aram Taraaan for a meeting on September 26. Vahe Gabrielian, the Presidenth spokesman,

said afterwards: "The President has ordered an investigation and wants it to be carried out impartially.That investigation is now under way. The President has stated that any guilty person will be punished regardless of who he is"

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

The Minister of Justice David Harutunian

the culprits, saying "the credibility of our country depends on it." Attorney Ruben Sahakian, representing the victim's family, told AIM that the inquiry

was focusing exclusively on members of Kocharian's security force as suspects Kocharian's comments have been contradictory. After initially distancing himself from the Poplavok incident, he told joumalists at a press conference last month:"Yeqthere was a row that caused a man to die. Perhaps there are guilty people. The problem is how guilty they are." He addressed public concern about the alleged behavior of secwity penonnel by saying: "There is one way (to avoid security concerns), you know, not to go out at all. The President stays in his residency, does not talk to anybody, does not go anywhere. "But I don't think this is the right way for such a small counfiy as ounThe President should go to theatrgopera,cafeggo to oowded placesBut of course contacts like this may be rislry.

"This kind of risk can lead to such incidents once in 10 or 50 years Now it has happened. What should I

do?"

t

Reporting by AIM Yerevan Bureau

51


Gonnections

MoHle Mon$lens Yerevan's Minibuses Create Magic and Madness BY ZARA CHATINIAil | YEREVAN

urdened by the weight of about 20 bodies and two huge market bags, minibus

number 96 climbs up Komitas street. "Stop the car here," 65-year old Hasmik cries

repeats Hasmik's request to the driver. Karen,

the driver, jerks the vehicle to the right, creating a traffic jam of cars trying to pass in the adjoining lane, and pulls over right before the

over the loud music and the cough of the van's engine. The driver does not seem to hear her

crossroad lights

and one of the passengers sitting in the front

way through the twisted bodies, legs, and

Hasmik apologizes for having to push her

'*h

52

AIM NOVEMBER

2OOI

scattered purses. Four passengers, who have been pressed against the bus's door, step out to let Hasmik out. Some help her with her

market bags. Without saying a word, she stretches a 200 Dram bill (about 40 cents) to the passenger sitting next to the driver, who in turn passes the money further to the driv-


Gonnections

er. The same speechless process is for getting change back, half of what Hasmik presented. For economic and social reasons, a city of 1.5 million people relies heavily on the service of manhrutkas (Soviet minibts). At most, these buses should carry 12 passengen However,these little monsten carry nearly trryice their capacity. "There are more than 2J00 privately owned minibuses running on Yerevan streets today", says Areg Barsegian, head of the Thansport Departrnent of Yerevan Municipality. "Dwing the communist days,manhrutkas served only as an auxiliary transportation source."

A lack of funds to support the operation and maintenance of bigger buses and trolleys

forced city officials to come up with the minibus concept. In 1998 a special committee began accepting applications from individuals and organizations that have minibuses for use in the public transportation system. "The committee selects candidates that best suit the regulation and technical requirements set by the government," Barsegyan says.And the city's transportation department deflnes routes and schedules for the drivers.

"l like their flexibility, they go everywhere in Yerevan, stop everywhere you ask the driver to, and get picked up at any point on the street," says Diana Gabrielian, who uses the service regularly. A sticker with a number on the windshield indicates the route of the particular bus. The cheap propane used for fuel keeps the price for marshrutka rides very low. The flexibility and the affordable prices make marshrutkas the most popular means of transportation in the city.

Alan Gogbashian, head of the Privatization Project thinks of marshrutkas as a small community. "You see people there from different backgrounds and ages," he says. "In contrast

with buses and the metro, in marshrutkas people are forced to interact, help carry bags space, pass the money and the change, and share seats. I think it is incredibly interesting to observe people following these

to free some

unwritten rules." But drivers of other vehicles on Yerevan's crowded streets don't find minibuses so convenient or interesting. "Marshrutkas create AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

lots of confusion for the rest of the driverg" says Hayk. who drives a Russian

Zhiglli

car.

"They switch the lanes often and quickly to get to passengers.Their incredibly high numbers cause much traffic and pollution." As things stand now, manhrutkas serve a needed purpose.

"It

is the only way transporta-

tion needs can be met at this timq given the high mst of upgradingthe othertransportation means such as buses and trolleys,'says Samuel Coxson, an American expert on city management. "However, safety is still an issue and enforcing the load limit might be something to consider in this situation." A student with a backpack asks the driver to stop. The driver's face tenses as he looks around trying to find a little spot where he can pull over.There is none. Still,the driver squeezes into the packed line of carsThe loud horns of following cary and irate faces of other driven are feelings expressed thousands of times a day on these routes The young student poprs out.The driver again looks around, then he turns the wheel toward the stream of passing carg and moves

on.

r


Gonnections

Gnowlnu 0Nmlsm TLee Project Plants Roots and Hope BY HRAIR SARKTS SARKTSSTAiT I LoS ANGELES

hen the harsh winters of 1993 and 1994 hit,Armenia's population ran for the treeg cut them down, and used them to heat their homes. It was around that time that some members of the Armenian Assembly were visiting from the United States and saw the devastation.They decided to start a project where trees would be planted to replace the lost ones and more. Thus, in 1994, the Armenia TLee Project (ATP) emerged and has since been itself growing, from planting 6,0fi) trees in its first year to more than 20,000 trees last year.

Carolyn Mugar, Armenian Assembly board member and Executive Director of FarmAID in the United States was one of the visitors at the time. Upon her return, Mugar set up ATP in Massachusetts, with Regina Eddy as executive director, and their work began. The Yerevan office was initially housed at the Armenian Assembly office in Yerevan, and later moved to its current loca-

tion at 9 Aigestan Street. Laura Gononian moved to Yerevan from the US and is the organization's director of programs. Having worked at the Diocese in New 'fr&

York for flve years prior to accepting a position withATP, Gononian,3T,who was born in Detroit, Michigan, barely spoke Armenian. "I only knew enough to make my grandmother

happy," she says. Now, Gononian, whose name and face are synonymous with AIP around town, speaks Eastem Armenian well enough to communicate with most. "I only need a translator when it comes to technical terms in meetings," she says. Through meetings with the local forestry peG AIP began buying trees from the government and planting them. A senion' center in ple,

H -

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r'i-

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

I

*!


Gonnections

18.'

,*tlft

t

ll

Yerevan was the

fint project. But

as

the need

for

trees increased,AfP started growing its own in a a refugee village built by United Nations High Commission for Refugees on the road to Ejmiatsin, to cover the demand. "The flrst year they camq I suggested they make their main nursery here," says Haygaz Ter Goulanian, a refugee from Akhalkalak and now Mayor of Garin. For the first three yearg Goulanian pro vided the plots for freg sinoe AIP was creating much-needed jobc for the villagers Now ATP has nurseries in two refugee

nursery in Garin,

tree, all indigenous to Armenia, are grown.

ATP has various sites where trees

are planted. l.ocations are sometimes scouted out, sometimes requested, or suggested by community foresters. In addition to hospitalg seniors' centers, schools and factorieq ATP participates in major community projects, such as a possible upcoming involvement in the Pantheon project, a park in Yerevan.

"The Jinishian Foundation, the Mayor of Yerevan and others are involved in cleaning up the park and beautifying it. If we are involved,

villages and is the largest employer in both. The main nursery in Garin consists of five plots 800 square meters apiece, each costing $5,000. The other nursery in Khatchpar, just behind Zvartnots airport, has nine plots. "The $5,000 cost includes buying the plot, fencing it, cleaning the soil, adding soil if needed, building an irigation system, and the cost of the seeds Basically, tuming an empty plot of land into a working nursery" says Gononian.

we will do our part by providing a landscape plan, planting all the treeg" says Gononian. The job does not end there. For three years following such planting projectg ATP monitors all the trees. It also donates all necessary tools and solves any irrigation and pesticide problems the sites may have.

The latest purchased plot in Garin is now the mother orchard,where the best samples of each

measures, ATP has a 70 percent survival rate for the trees it plants. Another project, this year, has been planting 17,000 trees and shrubs at 45 churches and monasteries around the country in cele-

Opposite page: A young

visilor admires the pears al one ol ATP'S nurseries. Above: Employees caring lor the new budding trees. Pholos by ATP.

'All this on one condition, that the site have a designated person to take care of the trees regularly," she adds. As a result of these

bration

of the

1700th anniversary of

Armenia's adoption of Christianity. When it AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

will bring AT?'s community planting projects to a total of 350 sites Since no organization is charged for any of the trees or the services AT? provides, fundraising is vital to its survival. From its headquarters in Cambridge, Massachusett$ is completed, this

ATP raises funds through direct-mail campaigns in the US and Canada. Donations also come from people who hear about the organization or visit the nurseries and want to donate one tree or a thousand trees in the name of a loved one. Each tree costs $10. For 50 treeg a $500 donation, a plaque is placed at the site where the trees are planted. "Some have donated to ATP in lieu of birthday, anniversary baptism or Christmas gifts," says Gononian. "This project is accessible to everyone. With a $10 donation, anyone can participate in making Armenia green. Small organnationg women's auxiliaries, Armenian student associations or other clubs can donate $500 and have their organization's name on a site. a wonderful thing to take pride in." When an NGO whose mandate was children and the environment planted 100 trees at a school, the British Embassy, the Italian Embassy and HSBC bank followed suit. Now each of these organizations pays for trees

It's


Gonnections

annually at various locations. planted by their employees. "Our organization is no longer'grass roots' It is'branching out,"' says Gononian, Iaughing.

And AIP's ffiuence on Armenia's economy,

year-old Vartoushig Yegmalian moved to Yerevan with her mother. She started working at the ATP nursery in 1996 and is now one of the senior staff in charge of the Khatchpar plots. Her duties include training

The average monthly wage for nursery

new workers and supervising them, grafting, and running the nursery. Yegmalian has always worked in agriculture and even has a pear variety named after her.'As experts, they respect our opinion and provide all that we ask for. We are happy working here and we also get paid on time." Margo Dzatourian, 61, from Baku, has

employees is about $100, a good salary locally. Senior staff earn more. but what all value most is the fact that they are respected and

worked at the nursery in Garin since it opened five years ago. All day, five days a week, she cultivates the land, nurtures the

treated with dignity. Following the 1988 Spitak earthquake, T0-

plants, and does whatever else is needed.

however small scale, has made an impact. "The villagers and I are very thankful that

they came and provided jobs for us." says Goulanian. "Many people have left Armenia, but in our village no-one has left because they have jobs and salaries here. A family of five can eat with the salary of one."

"We are very thankful for AT? and the AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

Diasporan communities for creating this. We would like to see more of them, so that more villagers can work," she says. In all, ATP employs 19 nursery staff, three local senior managers and another 21 offtce staff, along with three drivers and one translator. Dikran Palazian,51, moved from Moscow to Armenia so that his children would leam their native language. A specialist in agriculture, he is one of ATP's senior staff. "In Armenia, it is hard to find people who work in their specialized fields I am glad to be working in my own field.I am doing what Anolher young visilor at one ol ATP's nursleft: HSBG bank statl planting trees at a community site. Above right: ATP employee, Artur Harutunian delivering trees. Photos by ATP.

Top:

eries. Above


I,r

#

I have always dreamed ot" says Palazian. "My goal since my student days has been grow to and multiply the greenery in this country. When the trees flower and give fruit, it is the most beautiful thing." With this job, Palazian has been sending both of his daughters to medical school - one recently graduated. Other than replanting AIP has been working with organizations to rejuvenate gardens and

forests For one project, they hired 150 unskilled

workers and paid them to leam and carry out coppicing the process of cutting the many shoo6 growing out of the base of a cut tree in orderto have one or two trees that can fully grow.

-

This was done on Paros Hill and a few neighbouring hills, where over 1(X) hectares offorestland had been destroyed.The project

was funded by a single Diaspora donor and

took three months to complete. "Villagers are happy that there is such an organization that is replanting while others are cutting down," says Gononian. ATP is also looking to partner with larger organizations such as the World Bank and USAID to undertake major projects. One such plan

not yet cover its costs, she believes it will within a few years as the market expands.

There are other possibilities. Planting Linden trees for tea, fast growing trees for logging or Mulberry trees for silk. "We will continue with this project as long country needs trees. There is no time r limit to this," Gononian says as the

would involve planting over a million trees around Lake Sevan. There is also fruit drying. With one large scale commercial dryer, and 20 smaller ones, ATP has been able to produce two tons of dried fruits per year. "We give loans to farmers to help them grow better fruit. We buy their fruit, dry them, package and sell them locally at this point," says Gononian. Although this project does AIM NOVEMBER

2()O]

the proces 0l cuning the many shools growing out ol the base ol a cut tree in order lo have one or two lrees that can lully grow, was necessary at lhe Paros Hil! proiect, where over 100 hectars ol rorestland had been destroyed. Above left: At a tree planting event at Khor Virab, Karekin ll tastes ATP's dried lruits as ATP director ol programs, laura Gononian watches. Above right: ATP trees at a children's rehabilitation center in Moughni. Photos by ATP. Top: Coppicing,

57


Gonnections

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Gonnections

Narine had lost the ability to become a mother.

Narine says: "Both my husband and I are in a desperate situation. Life has lost its meaning and we don't know what to do." Statistics collected by the Family and Health

Association in Armenia showed that she is far from alone.The study of 1,400 women found that manied women aged24to29had had an average

ofthree abortions each.

Of those surveyed, a staggering 31 percent were infertile. Levels of natural infertility among women could be expected to account for only three to four percent of this total experts suggested the remainder, so-called "secondary infertility", was the result of damage inflicted by repeated

abortions

"The main cause of secondary infertility amongthe 28 percent of women idenffied in our research was the numerous abortions they have had.The number of abortions women are having is not decreasing in recent yearg" says Mary Khachikian, a leading gmecologist in Armenia and head of the Family and HealthAssociation. Sexual topics including contraception are not

openly discused in Armenia, where they still carry a stigma of shame.The consequent lack of public information and education leads to igro. rance and some depressing statistics

Official figures put the total number of abortions in the republic in 199 at 14,000, equiv0pposite page: The

aboilion room at lhe Family

and Heallh Association oflice. Above left: Mary Khachikian is a leading gynecologist and is the head ol the association. Above right: Sona Markosian is a psychotherapist urho works urith organizations such as the Family and Health Asociation. Photos by Mkhitar Khachatrian.

alent to 45 women every working day. But, according to healthcare specialistg the real figures are four to five times higher.This is because of the chronic state of healthcare services in

reported succesE however, while many others

found themselves in hospital as a result of

Armenia.

Patients must pay to have an abortion perofficially, the fee is 5,000 Drams (about $9).This money is supposed to go to the State, which pays the salaries of the doctors and nurses at the hospital. In reality, the State is often late with salaries, which are anywayverylow. So docton charge the patients much more from 16,000 to 28,000 drams ($30 to $50) - and record only a small proportion of the operations they actually perform, to avoid paying money to the govemment.

formed

Methods included throwing themselves from high cupboards or drinking vodka laced with pepper. Just four percent of women

-

-

The true flgure could therefore be in excess

of

50,000 abortiors annually, much greater than the

number of babies bom in Armenia. While there were 40,000 new-boms in 1998, the total for 1999 was 5,000 lessThe resurgence

in emigration, particularly strong among young people, and continuing poverty for many of

those left behind may explain the fall in birthrate. But the rising abortion rate also indicates a reluctance even among well-off couples to commit to raising a family. "In general, people justify their unwillingness to have children by bad social conditiong"says Sona Markosian, a psychotherapist who works with women's organizations locally. "Children are like little suns, but people have become more selfish today." While legal abortions are easily availablgprovided you have the money, traditional "remedies" penist.The Family and Health Association survey found that 13 percent ofrespondents had attempted to provoke a miscarriage.

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

injuries caused.

There is another, darker side too. Some women,eitherunmarried orwives who fall pregnant as a result of affain while their hubands are working abroad, tum to illegal abortionists rather than endure what they perceive to be the shame of tuming to the medical services and risking remgrrition by friends orneighbors Armenian lawalso only permits abortions to take place up to a maximum of 12weeksinto the pregrancy.Women who seek terminations after that limit must also seek an illegal abortion. Many of those carrying out such operations are doctors,who demand large sums of money in return for breaking the law. But others have no medical qualifications at all. Ten women have died in recent yea$ as a result of botched operations canied out. Aeording to Minisny of ftrtemalAftirs figures, 12 people have been prcecuted for performing illegal abortions in the last seven years Preventing such tragedies and reducing the

number of abortions requires public education. But attempts to carry out such programs have produced unexpected reactions When specialists from the American Johns

Hopkins Univenity started an information program about contraception and family planning, it provoked a backlash from Armenian intellectuals

A number of women poets headed by Metaqse, one of the most prominent writerq organized sheet demonstrations claiming the


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Gonnections

program was "not appropriate to the image of Armenian woman". Neither physicians nor the specialists were able to convince them that current practices were even more destructive of Armenian women. The Church, unexpectedly perhapg took a rather more pragmatic line. It regards abortion as murder and therefore a major sin subject to serious condemnation.To prevent the commission of a sin,it iswilling to tolerate modem methods of contraception even as it teaches that sex should be reserved for marriage. Some of the intellectuals were prepared to lead a campaign around Armenia's villages to persuade local women against the idea of contraception. There was little need - the practice of seeking abortions and the absence of infor-

mation on altematives is already geatest in the regions

"I worked in Sevan for yean and women were not using contraceptives at all," says Khachikian. "They were coming to hospital to have an abortion one after another as they would go to a hairdresser to get a haircut. To protect themselves via abortion became a kind

of tradition. "There isnt any information which explains the dangen to women and the alternatives The

ofthe population may even be advantageous for many doctors since it is more profitable to make several abortionspermonth rather than teach people what to do to avoid them." ignorance

Khachikian's organization is attempting to

bridge the information gap and has been involved in translating an international guide on family planning into Armenian. It is also implementing lecture programs in different regions to provide information on contraception and sexual issues

-*

x

m *.\

m

Many women, for example, avoid taking the contraceptive pill because they believe it causes cancer. They consider abortion safer - even though in fact the risks to their health are far greater.

Nune Mangasarian,Vice-Minister of Health, says

the Govemment is drawing up plans to

encourage families to have more children. But she stresses that it is important for women to have control over their fertility. "Women have to have a choice.A woman who does not want to have a child takes many step6 to remove an embryo, even risks her own life. We have to teach people how to prevent abortiong" she says Sona Markosian argues the present situa-

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worth. She says: "Some women are just toys of their husbands and they don't think of themselvesThey are prepared to have an abortion at the whim of their

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Gonnections

ThsBGa Armenia's Catwalk Contest BY ilARA MARKOSSIAN

I YEREVAN

iHffi :il# T:'#3:' il:ff; lllll" I I qr.", rorZu;r octooerS. wno nas on the right to be called Miss Armenia is a more complicated question that may end up being settled in the courts rather than on the catwalk. Ara Ernjakian, art director of the Yerevan Chamber Theater and originator of the Miss Armenia contest had run all previous pageantg sinoe its origination in1996. But this year's event, was held under the auspices of the Armeniah Ministry of Culture, Sport, and Youth. The Government saysitnowholds the rights to the Mis Armenia title, a claim hofly disputed by Emjakian. He accuses the ministry of violating his trademark and stealing the contest using the name recognition that he had built up. Vice-Minister of Culture, Sport and Youth, Karen Aristakesian, chairman of MissArmenia 2001, insisted Ernjakian's allegations have

ffi[

no merit. 'According to a govemmental decision, the ministry possesses the right to conduct this com-

petition.

A

trademark can be applied only to

objects, which the competition is not," he said.

Ernjakian, however, has a document that he sap contradicts Aristakesian's interpretation of the law. On March 15, l9%, the Republic of

Armenia National Agenry on Copyright certifled that the "elegance and beauty competition Miss Armenia" is an object with rights belonging to Emjakian. The dispute seems destined for resolution in the civil courts. Meanwhile,it is 19-year-old Tovmasian from Yerevan who will be the face of Armenia over the next 12 months. Tovmasian was chosen from 20 gids from six regions and Karabakh, and will represent

Armenia She

in

international beauty contests.

will go on to take part in the "Miss

Europe" contest scheduled for December 29 in Lebanon (in fact, the contest is likely to be held in Greece because of security concerns in the Middle East). Speaking before the contest, Aristakesian promised that this year's pageant would be the grandest yet, saying the budget was four times larger than for previous events (which had cost $15,000-20,000). Tickets for the show, held at Yerevan's Opera House, were sold for 4,000 to 20,000 Drams (about $8 to $40). For more than a week prior to the judging, the girls were all kept at the city's Youth

Palace under round-the-clock protection. None of the contestants was allowed contact either with their families and friends or the media in the run-up to the show. While in seclusion, they exercised, rehearsed

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1


Gonnections

ttreir walls and oosturne changeg and praCiced language shlls inArmenian,Russian and English.

On the night of the contest, the girls were presented to judges and spectators in national costumes,bathing suits and evening gowns

ln

previous yearq a girl wishing to partici-

pate in MisArmenia paid a $500entry fee.This year, despite eliminating the entry fee, organizers have had ditficulties finding enough girls to fill the competition roster. Aristakesian claimed this was because

previous competitions were corrupt and people lost their confidence in the fairness of beauty pageants. He added: "We probably need five more years to revive everything we have lost. People are sure that the competition is unfair and the winner's name is known before it starts"

Ernjakian contends that the shortage of applicants is an indication that the new organizers lack the ability to make Miss Armenia a success in contrast to his own experience.

r

0pposite page, top: The newly crowned Miss Armenia, lrina Tovmassian. Bottom: Conlestanh parade in evening wear. This page: The swimsuil competition. Photos by Mkhitar Khachalrian

ARARATBECKONS A 50 Minute Video Now Available In Armenian Narration, American or P.A.L. Format ARARAT BECKONS is a film of striking beauty and mystery on the first Armenian expedition to reach the summit of Mount Ararat. The film became a reality after four shipments of film were smuggled out of Tirrkey over a two year period. PROCEEDS WILL HELP DEFRAY COSTS OF COMPLIMENTARY VIDEOS TO BE SENT TO LIBRARIES WORLDWIDE.

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www.mountararat.net


Photo Essay

Fnamlnuthc ffids A Photographer's Journey through a Yerevan Neighborhood TEXT

AilD PHOTOS BY VEERO DERKABABETIAN

(ltroll

the streets of Yerevan. past people

\chewins sunflower seeds and cab drivers lfpiaying chess on the hoods oI therr cars. and what really catches your eye are the kids. Lots of kids, bright-eyed and joyful, running and playing onjust about every street you see.

The city is full of little neighborhoods populated with these kids. Small city blocks where everyone knows everyone and with their own self-contained worlds. I became familiar with one such world last summer at 33 Thmanian Street, a section of the city where several run down apartment build-

ings surround an asphalt courtyard

full of

metal shacks, some old junk, and a soccer goal. At flrst glance it seems a lifeless plot of

urban land. But for the kids who live in the apartments, this courtyard is their playground. It may belong to the neighborhood, but it's the kids who really own it. It's their land, their world, and their place to be. They

â‚Źf ffi"*xtt

know every nook and cranny. If it's not raining or snowing, they are out there every day. Gradually, they begin appearing one by one. It starts with one kid who goes to each apartment, yelling down the hallway for the others to come out. One might expect the tenants to come out and shew them away with a broom, but the noise does not seem to bother anyone. AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1


The kids in this neighborhood are like a family, each with his or her own traits. One who really stood out was Mickey. She was usually the one gathering everyone and doing the most yelling. A true character, loud, outgoing, and playful, she was the first to appear and the last to go home. Mickey was always mingling with the boys instead of the girls [n fact when I first saw her I thought she was a boy - she didn't dress up or mind getting dirty. She had eamed a certain respect from the boys and was the only girl that they allowed to play soccer. When they weren't playrng soccer, the kids would explore their neighborhood, finding new @mers every time. One day, Mickey and her friend Armineh were determined to find a way into the attic ofone ofthe apartrnents and insisted I came with them. They were both eager to go and eager to show me.We made our way up eight flights of stairg passing people's doors as we went,the girls yelling and shouting the whole way. I was sure one of the tenants would open their door and yell at ug demand to know what we were doing and spoil our plans But it didn't happen and we made it into the attic. Once therg Mickey was surprisingly hesitant. Perhaps she was scared,but eventually they made their way to a window where they were able to overlook the entire courtyard.They tried to yell down to their friends to show off their

AIM NOVEMBER

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Photo Essay

*

*;*ffi.Y "%a*

new'discoven and cncourage thern to c(nnc up. but the kids do*'n in thc courtvarcl rvere to<t involved in thcir dailv soccer gante to budgc.

The kicls in this courtvard plaved

lr.* k e.

L,.,..

\rl

Pelhaps he u'as imitating thc ovcremotional -l-V.

behavior of the prolcssionals on Not all the kids playcd soccer'. Maybc thev rvere too shv or lackcd skill, or maybc thev just didn't rvant to. But thc kicls who didn't plav rvould at least u,atch the gantc I'ron'r

timc to time and thc best scal in thc house was on top of an old. slrippecl clown. junk car. This junk car sat smack in the micldle clf the courlvarcl like a lixsilized dinosaur ancl rvas where a lot of thc kids rvoulcl gather. 11 u,as the place to be. the hub ol thc courtvarcl. It was a conrnron mceting arca. a junele g1,m. and a place lirr gossip - vou would be surprised rvhat a couple ol 12-ycar-old sirls can gossip about. I would sit with thcrn and listcn sometimes when

rvasn't playing

in the

soccer

H

ilSfrhdf

sclccer

almost dailv I1'thev didn't gather enough kids for a lull sanre. thev *ould just practice their shooting. A bov nanrccl Arant. lvho happened to bc onc ol'the bcst plavers. ahvavs ran the show. Hc had skill ancl thev looked up to him. Hc could juggle thc ball for several minutes and dribblc past any clcfcrrder. He knew his status in thc group and he decided rvho was c'rr.r cach lcanr. He was a scrious pla.ver and I euess that's rvliat he wanted to be when he grcw up. He alwavs wore a soccer jersey, sonrethine not atl kicls had. and when he missed a goal lre u,ould fall to the ground yelling at hirnsell.

I

-__"qffi',d

game.

Occasionalll,, they even included rne in. but I hacl 1o act likc I wasn't interested clr clsc I rvouid krse thce with the boys. Somctirnes thev rvould sound like old womcn gossiping but it rvas mostlv about who had a crush on whonr or rvho thev u,anted to play a joke on. The summers in Yerevan can get hot and on the most oppressivelv hot clav. a rniracle occurred. It began to rain.A lcw lricklcs at first. that no one paid attention to.'l-hcn a girl at a rvindor.v ycllcd or"rt to the courtvarcl "the rains

are cominq". Evervone stoppcd lbr a brief moment.looked torvards the skv and the downpour started.

AIM N()VEMtiUR l(X)t

La,

rc w ffi


The kids could not believe it. "Rain at this time of year..." one said as he ran for cover.They scattered in all directions Before I had time to figure out which way to run,the kids had already disappeared. The rain lasted no more then a minute and afterwards there was silence. The courtyard was empty. The sun came out and the smell of wet hot cement became the only noticeable thing. Then, like a natural rhy.thm, the kids gradually reappeared and the courtyard was once again full of life. These Armenian children are no different from kids living in a suburb of America or in

an African village. Some have video games and the internet, others have sticks and rocks to play with.They play together with whatever life has given them.

Kids have a certain innocence about them. Stereotypeq money, and power have not yet corrupted them. They don't see race or religion; they just live and play. Thanks to the children of 33 Tirmanian Street, I had a front row seat that summer at one of life's grand exhibitions. r Ueero Derkarabetian (vderkara@u lv.edu) is a lreelance photographer based in Boston, Massachusetts.

AIM NOVEMBER

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67


Ants

$uuan $ulccl $ounil$ When Mary Was Queen of the Eighth Avenue Scene BY ELIZA GALFAYAN I LOS ANGELES

jil'1ffi ;:

Eighth Avenue was home to Port Said, Egyptian Gardeng Seventh Veil, Ali Baba and Istanbul, clubs where celebrities and

Armenian, influenced by the language, art

It is a sad fact for those who have never heard or seen her perform, even more so

leading jazz musicians of the time were regulars.Although mostly Greek owned in a community that included Syrians, Jews, Kurds and Turkg the clubs were where Sugar Mary and other Armenians made their names. Tho of Sugar Mary's most famous songs are Tirkish. She sang mostly in Tirrkish as did the otherArmenians, and their music is full of Turkish flavors too abundant to ignore.When

though she doesn't speak Greek, she knew

Mil:il#i?**:x"$

since the only recordings of her music are two

songs on the Armeninns on Eighth Avenue

CD

produced

by Hagop Hagopian

(Tiaditional Crossroads label). One of the leading performers in the chic, nouveau cabarets of Manhattan in the early and mid part of the last century, Sugar Mary along with legends such as Kanuni Garbis, Marko Melkon, Madlen Arardian, John Pappas and Udi Flrant, headlined in the exot-

ic Middle Eastern clubs that lined Eighth Avenue between 23rd and 42nd Streets

68

Sugar Mary sings E/mas Yuzuk Parmaktn (The ring on your finger) and Yandim Tokat Yandim (Your slap burned me),it is in a deep sultry voice full of the exotic mysteries of the East. It is the sound of a woman thoroughly

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

and culture of her past. She also sang in Armenian and Arabic and close to 90 songs perfectly. But the oldTurkish

melodies from her youth are what made her famous and are the ones dearest to her. What a scene it must have been atAli Baba or Egyptian Gardens on some Saturday night 60 years ago with the sounds of the kanun, violin and oud filling every crevice of the room. Sugar Mary standing at the microphone perfectly poised in her elegant couture, not a hair out of place, wooden spoons in manicured handsThe scent of intoxicating spices and the

smoke from the nergileh (hookah or water prpe) lingering in the air as a belly dancer takes


Ints

the dance floor whirling her hips to the sounds

Marseilles on his way back from Beirut. It was

from the band. Perhaps a jazz great such

from Beirut he had intended to bring home a bride, but after realizing that he was lured

as

Leonard Bemstein or Herbie Mann is sitting in on a session with the band, entranced by the exhilarating rhythms. And the audience showering Sugar Mary

and the band with money, emptying their pockets, eternally grateful for those rare, beautiful moments from the old world, now so far from their reach. Spirits full of arak or oozo, the dance floor full of cash. Sugar Mary was born in Ankara, Tirrkey, where her father was murdered by the Ttrrks during the Ottoman Empire's persecution of

there with a picture of a much prettier girl, he

left the bride-to-be, and Beirut, and went off to France. He asked his friends about the girl with the song and they arranged for him to meet her family. He proposed, and her mother agreed. So he married her and Mary arrived in New York, where she has been, on

and off, ever since. It was on their vacations to the Armenian resorts of the Catskills in upstate NewYork in the 1930s that Mary Vartanian was christened Sugar Mary and she's been Sugar ever since. In the'30s and'40s the Catskills were home to so many Armenian resorts that it was nicknamed the Yogurt Belt. She was the youngest bride among the married couples there, and was adored by young and old alike. But it was

Armenians Her family moved to Constantinople then to France when she was five years old. She came to New York in the late 1920's

after she was married off to Iskender Vartanian. who noticed her on a crisp. sunny day, as she was hanging laundry outdoors, singing a song her former fianc6 had written and sung for her. Vartanian was living in New York at the time but was visiting friends in Right: Sugar Mary on stage al the height ol her career. Below: Holding the spoons that made her famous, Sugar Mary today in Manhatlan's Times Square.

AIM NOVEMBER

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69


Ants

the older women at the resorts who started calling her sftefter (Tirkish for sugar). "I would kiss their hands when I greeted them and they would call me sheker, because they thought I was so sweet. I would teach their children how to sing and they all loved me, the children, the motherg and always they would say'Mary come and sing for us' So every night, I would sing there at the hotel," she said.

Sugar Mary began her official singing career in Manhattan's Egyptian Gardens in the early 1930sWhen she anived in NewYork as a young bride, she was so homesick and full of longing for anything familiar that she found solace in the music of the east. She would frequent the shop of a local merchant and buy whatever she could get her hands on that was Turkish, Arabic, Greek or Armenian. "I would buy records, bring them home

and play them on my phonograph. I would memorize them and sing them for my husband.It would make him so happy to hear me sing," she said. Soon she gained an audience and a following. She became a celebrity. Her husband died in 1957 after 30 years of

marriage. Mary had two children, both of

whom died young from pneumonia.

She

leamed to love the man she married but her heart perhaps belonged to the other she could not have, the one whose song she still rememberq the one whose photo she still has. Sugar Mary never remarried, despite the many offers she says she's had.And no doubt, there must have been offers by suitable suitors for a woman in her prime, still quite striking. Although she misses her husband and remembers her flanc6, she never mentions regret for not remarrying.

It

seems her husband was her biggest fan.

But when asked how he felt about her singing career, her reply is very matter of fact. "Of course he was happy. If he didn't want me to sing, I would have stopped." How traditional she sounds, how conventional she now seems in light of her long, exhilarating career. She believes she was an ideal wife, an excellent cook and kept a spotless home. Today she is a bit upset about the spilled Armenian coffee that's made a mess on her stove. She fusses over it for some time, cleaning the stove thoroughly, though she is barely able to stand.

Clossic Films on the Armenion Genocide Now Avoiloble on rYideo

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Phone 805.495. A7 V


Ints

After

close to 70 years of performing,

it

is

only this poor health that prevents her continuing. If it weren't for the arthritis and the pain, perhaps she would have been at New York's St. Vartan Armenian Picnic this past September, performing with her spoons. At one point, she lived in Boston where she sang at Club Zara seyen days a week, for 17 years She's also performed in Detroit, Chicago and Philadelphia. There were free concerts and church picnics benefiting not only orphanages in Armenia but AIDS research as well. Hagopian had once said: "She doesn't mean it when she says she won't sing anymore. She always says it, then she hears the band and the old songs." But perhaps this time she does mean it. The band is gone, the music stopped a long

time ago and the Armenians on Eighth Avenue have all passed away, all but her. The clubs are gone and Eighth Avenue is no longer the center of chic. Sugar Mary spends her days in a one-bedroom apartment on the Lower East Side of Manhattan. When asked to sing a song, she becomes teary eyed and doesn't have the strength to gather her voice. Her wooden

dark forest ln

of

1gBB, the Armenians the Nagorno-Karabakh territory, following the fall of the Soviet Empire, sought independence from Azerbailan. By 1990, both Armenia and Azerbailan were in a war

that lead to tens of thousands

of

casualties, many more wounded, and over a million refugees.

Shot on location in 1994, Dark Forest combines state-of-the-art c0mputer animation with live footage to tell the story of the people at the front lines. lt

is an account of bravery in the face of incredible odds, where geopolitical forces stand ready to crush an ancient

people. Professionally done

and

popularly acclaimed, Dark Forestis a must-see experience.

spoons are wrapped in a paper bag she keeps above her sofa. Once in a while, when she has visitors, she takes the spoons out, but her hands are much too tired and weak to play any more. She says: "This is how you hold the spoons. But there is no music now. I cannot play."And she gives a

few idle clacks just for show. Despite her age and the dfficulties of living alone, she manages to get through and she does so still with passion. There are lots of sweets in the apartment now - lokhum (Turkish Delight), rose water candy, imported lirkish mintg a bowl full of jolly ranchers she keeps at her side - and she offers them all in plenitude. Sugar Mary, as sweet as the rose water candy sent to her from Tirkey, is all that's left of Eighth Avenue today. And even though delis and convenience stores have now replaced the cabarets and nightclubq the legends still live on through Sugar Mary who can still remind us that there

once were Armenians on Eighth Avenue, where Leonard Bernstein came to jam in sessions with Udi Hrant and Kanuni Garbis. r Previous and this page: Sugar

menl in lower Manhattan.

Mary at her apart-


Sponts

Not ffiru$, But Glose Slip in Key Game Proves Costly toWorld Title Hopes By IVilCHAEr HARUTTUNTAN

IYEREVAN

f rmenia finished a disappointing third in the llWorld Ches Team Championship after I fhigh initial hopes that it would win the title.

to be the championship decider,l8-year-old Ruslan Ponomariov was the hero of the hour.

He defeated his higher-ranked

Russian opponent to secure victory and the title for Ukraine by half a point after the other three games ended in draws. Russia took the silver medal and Armenia the bronze. Vladimir Akopian gained some personal consolation by winning the gold medal as the best individual player on his board, scoring five out of a possible seven points in the

The Frfth World Championships were held in Armenia from October ll-zl,the fint time the contest has been held outside Switzerland, where the game's goveming body is based.

Teams

of six

players representing nine

countries competed for the title. More than 40 of those participating were Grandmasters - the

highest rank in the chess world - including every member of Armenia's team. As well as the host nation, the championship brought together teams from Russia, Germany, and Ukraine (the three highest placed countries at the 2000 World Chess Olympiad), H*gury (representing Europe), Uzbekistan (he Asia Continental Ctrampion), and Cuba (Americas Continental Champion). Iran and

matches he played. Rafael Vaganian was awarded a silver medal for his performances on board two with 4.5 points out of six. The world team championship is held every

four years and is organized by the Federation Internationale des Echecs or FIDE, the game's goveming body.

All four previous toumaments were held in Lucerne, where FIDE is based. The right to

Macedonia also participated as invited teams

host the ffih was awarded to Armenia in recognition of its achievements in chess, out of all proportion to the country's size. More than 1,000 spectators crowded into Yerevanh Opera House each day to watch the

The Armenian team was made up of Vladimir Akopian, Rafael Vaganian, Smbat

F!]{AL POSITIONS

Lputian, Karen Asrian, Ashot Anastasian, and

1. UKRAINE

Artashes Minasian. Each round of the competition involved four matche$with teams choosing to rotate playen as they saw fit.

2. RUSSIA

21.0

3. ARMENIA

200

Armenia started well with 4-0 victories

4. GERMANY

18.5

year was heightened by the knowledge that the

over Iran and Macedonia. The team sat out round three - every team missed one round because of the uneven number of entrants but returned in round four with an impressive 3-L victory over Russia. Despite a 3-1 reverse against Germany in

5. HUNGARY

16 5

6. UZBEKISTAN

15.5

7. CUBA

14.5

republic came fourth when it fint participated in the championships in 1993 and improved to second in 197. Armenians have always had a high regard for chess and have produced many famous play-

round five,Armenia returned to winning ways with a 3-1 defeat of Cuba to lead the competition by half a point at the end of round six.

21.5

B. MACEDONIA

9.5

9. IRAN

7.0

games Their sense that this mlght be Armenia's

enTigran Petrosian,who

The match against Uzbekistan in round seven proved the critical tuming point of the championshipq however. The unfancied Uzbeks secured a2-2 draw when Smbat Lputian failed

to capitalize on a superior position and suffered

upet defeat against Dzhumaev. The setback allowed Russia to edge ahead in the rankings with a 3-1 victory over Cuba. Armenia never recovered the initiative, going down in the next round 2.5-1.5 to Ukraine followed by a disappointing 2.5-1.5 an

right Medalwinnerc Levon fuonian, Smbat Lputian, and Ashol Anastasian. Photos by Melik Bagdasarian/AP Left to

defeat in the final round against Hungary. Ukraine rose from third to take the team title for the first time after a flnal round win over the Russians. In a match that turned out

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

was world champion from 1963 to 1968, is widely considered one of the greatest players of all time. Many of his opponents considered him invincible and his

games were demonstrations of pure technique.

With 156 member federations and more than five million registered players worldwidg FIDE is one of the largest organizations recognized bythe Intemational Olympic Committee. Armenia currently has 140 representa-

tives (120 men and 20 women) in FIDE's world rankings.

It

boasts 12 male and two - a remarkable total

female Grandmasters for a small country.

Madimir Akopian is the highest ranked man at 31, while Elena Danielian is the best-

ratedwomanin49thplace.

r


0thm People's Mail

These ane Feal lettens lr.om neal peoplc, send u$ your$...

YHTUTil

IMIilI

Dear H. T had given L and me a couple of tickets to Armenia-Norway soccer game. E also wanted to come, so we looked for a ticket booth outside the stadium to buy an extra one. the

After much pushing and shoving at different windows I got to the right one. I showed one of the ladies behind the desk my tickets and asked for another in the vicinity (like anyone ever really sits in their seats ) She flicked through her pile and came up with a respectable offer.The ticket cost 30ff) Dram (about $6).I pulled out my Iittle black mesh pouch that is my wallet here who needs a wallet for unusable credit cards, !

-

drivers' license and insurance cards? Then stuffed the tickets and wallet into my purse. We walked toward the gates, part of a huge

(male) crowd. Very few women. The Vazgen Sargsian stadium is surrounded by a fence -

you guessed it, with just a few small gates open. As it became obvious we were getting

I knew it. At one point in the mayhem the two guys right behind me had turned around and pushed out the opposite way. So, that was it. I was just amazed at how it could happen, and people's desperation, and my 300 bucks gone. And really wondering how it could happen when I kept looking at my purse and pulling it close every two minutes. Went in, sat down, of course not in our assigned seats, and started to scream with the fans. Norway scored. I looked down at my jeans - they were really dirty. All that shoving and pushing... And so was my purse - did I mention it was a beautiful rust brown Louis Vuitton bag that my sister and brother-in-law brought for me from one of their European trips - sitting next to me. I showed L - and she noticed for the flrst time that the beautiful brown leather was slashed. Slashed! Through that thick leather horizontally and vertically. They hadn't been able to get in one way, so they tried

closer to kick-off at 7 o'clock, the crowd began to press forward, yelling and screaming at the

another.The whole time I d been looking down at my purse and not seeing anyone, they were already inside from the bottom and rummag-

cops on the other side, holding up their tick-

ing around for what

ets.

It

was a mess.

I

guess they

knew was

my mesh wallet. Just by feel.

The three ofus stood and watched for a bit, but then had to join the crowd to get in. Then the pushing REALLY began. L told me to watch my purse. pulled my brown Louis Vuitton purse up close to me and REALLY got pushed around. Kids on dads' shoulders were crying. The men were pushing and simultaneously screaming "let these women in at least". I was getting elbowed, my feet were stepped upon. I kept looking at my purse, pulling it towards me, and philosophizing about a crowd of people who can only get things done this way. Finally, we squeezed through. I had a funny feeling and looked through my purse, rummaging for my wallet. Not there. Just not there.

I

Now

She ignored the attendant's request to pack away her stuff and when the attendant persisted, the girl became annoyed, saying she needed only a few more minutes. "What's the problem with that?" She finished her clear expression of discontent with an ever so Armenian'Amaaaaa!" I wondered if she would act this way on

the journey to the United States. Would she feel such ownership of the country she was about to land in that she would have a problem being told, by a foreigner no less, how to behave? But she finally put her stuff away, and we landed.

When I told some friends of this incident, they replied that things are much different on Armenian Airlines. Maybe the girl was right to be bothered. After all, haven't we all wondered whether the position of our seat backs will affect a plane's landing? The passengers on Armenian Airlines' flights into Yerevan have apparently proven that it really doesn't make a difference. And

I

was angry. But, as my sister sayg what's the worst that can happen? If they only knew the purse was worth more than the cash. Don't tell my sister this story she'll never come to Hayastan. Ever. Next daywent out and bought me the biggest, blackest, grandmaiest purse in Yerevan. With four zippers. S.

Dear A, We've just got back to Armenia on the

British Med flight. As the plane

neared Yerevan, the flight attendants were making sure seats were all upright, tray tables put

AIM NOVEMBER

away... A young woman in her twenties sitting alone in the row behind me seemed to have half her belongings spread out on the seats around her.

2OO1

not only the position of the seat backs, but also of the passengers, their luggage, and the seatbelts.

Nothing matters, it seems. The plane can land just the same. I was told that, on a recent flight, the passengers even refused to sit down during landing. Some had the overhead compartments open and were bringing down their bags as the plane hit the runway. Otherg including a few attendantqwere smoking at the back of the plane during the flight. I justified that girl's reaction on my flight by thinking that probably she had previously been a customer on Armenian Airlines.

H.


nTiresday Sepember 4, the streets surrounding St. Mary's Armenian Apostolic Church in G1endale, Califomia were closed for the frrneral service of slain tns Angeles County Sheriffs deputy Hagop "Jake" Kuredjian.

Kuredjian,40, died on August 31,2001 during a shootout as he assisted sheriffs officers and federal agents attempting to serve a search warrant in Santa Clarita. California.

ln attendance at his ftrneral were Govemor Gray DavigSherifftre Baca and severalhundred law enforcement officenWith 17 yean of experi-

Meritorious Conduct Medal. Kuredjian supported many fund raising events including the Special Olympia and the

in law enforcement Kuredjian was a vital force in the Sheriffs Deparffnent as a certifled interpreter for the IASD IAPD and the FBI. In 1989 he saved a woman clinging for her life atop a small tree branch above a cliff and was awarded the Sherifls Department Gold

survivors of fallen law enforcement officers" as a member of the IronWarriors Motorcycle Club. Kurediian had finally achieved his dream of becoming a motorrycle deputy in February 2ffi7.

ence

AIM NOVEMBER

2t)OI

Downed Offlcen Support Ride "benefiting the

-By

Eliza Gallayan


Undenexposed

$clrool's Back ln pening day. lrvon and Bella Aharonians are in front, while pupils greet and thank

them.Number 136 school inYerevan rose from the ashes and opened its doors to its 769 students on September 4. The school, built in 1967,

had been burned down following an

electrical short circuit two years ago. The students were moved to nearby school number 44, attending as a second shift from Zpm each day, after the school's own pupils had finished their lessons. News of the fire had caught the attention of the Aharonians, who saw it on an Armenian TV broadcast in Tehran, Iran. They immediately decided to take

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responsibility for rebuilding the school so that the children could return. Two years of hard work has given the school a new life and the students are back. According to GretaToonian,the school principal,it was the best gift anyone could give them.

The work continues.The couple are working to provide computers and other modern equipment. The school has added Farsi to its curriculum from the first grade, in recognition of the role played by the Iranian embassy in Yerevan, which ensured the smooth transfer of funds and materials from Tehran.

-By Parik Nazarian

$tudyinU

,. Tt

irrl, ,f r,:

$rcech aghaksi, an ancient and almost extinct Armenian dialect used for many centuries in Jerusalem, is being studied, recorded

and preserved by the Israel Academy of and Humanitieg the National Armenian Academy of Sciences, and the

Sciences

Armenian Studies Program of Hebrew University

(www.unixware.mscc.huji.ac.il/- armenia).

a AIM NOVEMBER

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Currently spoken by only a few senior members of the community, Kaghaktsi was replaced by "Westem" Armenian following mass immigration to Jerusalem after theArmenian Genocide. 75


here has been enough hand wringing about the incompetence that plagues Armenia.

out the use of envelopes fllled with threats.

lrt

me tell you about a govemment agency that works with astounding efficienry:

light switch in my flat. Nothing is not unusu-

The Ministry of Electricity. They enforce simple rules with certain clarity. (Tiuth is I'm not sure it's called that, but in a

tricity and only I did not.

country that has a ministry for just about everything I figure I'm pretty safe in grving it that title.) In the world that I am most accustomed to, the relation between Public Utility and Paying Customer works like this:

On a given day of the month. Pafng Customer receives a familiar envelope in the mail from Public Utility. He opens it, cunes throws envelope into a pile of others that include telephone, cable TV, credit card, newspaper subscription, car payment, insurance notice, and so forth.

Paying Customer makes silent promise to himseHto pay the bills next morning over coffee.

Two weeks later a second familiar envelope arrives, this one gently notifying Paying Customer that this is a "late notice."

Nothing happened when al, except

I

flipped the

that on this day, neighbors had elec-

I called an electrician of course. Lines and fuses were checked. Meters were engaged. Heads were scratched. Finally, the question that solved the power puzzle'. "Did you pay your bill?" To which the Dumb American said: "Nobody told me it was time." Here, you're just supposed to know some things. One of which is that if you live in my building, the day for paying electricity is the 15th. Not the 14th nor the 16th. The 15th. If you go too soon the bill won't be ready. And if you go too late your lines will be cut without notice and you'll miss the Spanish TV soap operas dubbed in Russian. And the way you get such information is just like with anything else here:You ask some-

body who knows somebody who knows (or

many such places, women do the work, while men in badly fitting suits stand nearby and smoke cigarettes. I reached the desk and explained what I could. Did I have my receipt from the previous month? No, I did not. Did I know my address? Yes,

I did. Or

so

I have now learned

I thought. that my apartment

number is 26a. The 'a' is significant. Here's how I learned that lesson: I gave Glum Face the address. She said a price. I paid. She took a heavy stamp and slammed it onto a piece of dingy paper like a gavel in a courtroom, ripped the document in two with a ruler, gave me half and said, I presume,

"Next!"

I thought was No. 26, the apartment was dark, still. Back to Glum Face. She suggested a visit to the Regional Office, or some such. Regional Office said the electricity was going strong in the apartment for which the bill had been paid. Back then to the neighbor who knows Back at what

knows somebody's relative who knows, etc.).

somebody who knows,with as dumb a question

Two weeks later yet another familiar envelope arrives and across the top of the

Other tenants in the building also knew about a piece of official paper glued to the

as

live?"

page viewable by neighbors (who surely are more prompt in settling their obligations) the words scream:"Final Notice! Service Subject

power meter downstairs on which was printed names, apartment numbers and amounts owed. Now I know about that paper. even

"You are in26a," said the neighbor whose English is good enough that she could have said other things, but was nice enough to

Termination!" At which point Payng Customer yells at spouse:"1 thought you paid that!"At which point spoue yells back: "I thought YOU paid that!"

though I can't read it, which isn't often an issue because frequently it gets ripped off by a neighbor who thinks he is getting ripped off. Anyrvay.The dark apartment was a lesson. Utilities, I have learned, are paid at the

restrain herself.

to

Still, the lights remain on. the phone still rings and the 57 channels with nothing on still flicker on the telly with remarkable tolerance toward, if not in fact an endorsement for, procrastination. Well. This is not the scenario at my place near

Republic Square nor any other part of Yerevan, where a much more practical process

is enforced with great effectiveness and with-

Post Office. (Perhaps the reason I haven't received any mail is because I haven't been to the electricity company to collect it?) So off to the Post Offlce went friendly translator and delinquent bill payer. The line of glum faces ends at a desk where glum faces stare back, reading names and barking numbers and, often enough to make the room tense, shouting. And, like

AIM NOVEMBER

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the Dumb American could ask: "Where do I

Back to Glum Face. Stamp. Rip. "Next!" No, she could not refund the money I'd spent on No.26; I'd have to work it out with the nice neighbor. So I am walking back to the nice neighbor in No. 26 wondering what the Armenian phrase is for: "Excuse me, it seems I've paid your electricity bill by mistake." Should I figure out how to say the words, what are my chances of being able to explain them?

Forget it. Maybe he'll ask somebody who knows somebody who knows...


0n

fie $hell

Reading, Uiewing and listening $ug0estions

BY ARA ARZUMANIAN

This Month's Feature

Anmenian Foll( AHs, Gultune, and

ldenW

Levon Abrahamian, Nancy Sweezy, Editors; Sam Sweezy, Photo Editor lndiana University Press

0-253-33704-6

fhis large volume of Armenian culture and identity is brought together by a group of Armenian I ars, one Armenian and one American photographer, an American folklorist and the Indiana

schol-

University Press. Edited by [rvon Abrahamian and Nanry Sweezy, the view of the book at times seems to be that of an outsider, for example in describing the Karabagh movement in Yerevan in the late Eighties as "dramatic street theatre". Let it be said, though, that such minor shortcomings should not detract from this exquisite volume, whose aim is to present'Armenian culture through the work of its artisang who have been both a product of the culture and some of its principal creators" In nearly 300 heavy, glossy pages of text and photographs (color as well as black and white), the collection hits more points of Armenian cultural art and craft than most similar attempts. Working its way from little-known ancient Armenian megalith formations to the lost art of Armenian traditional pistol making, this collection presents hundreds of faces of Armenian art and craft as studied by numerous scholars A unique value of Armenian Folk Arts, Culture, and Identity is that it traces the evolution of many arts, presenting the ancient alongside its contemporary manifestations. Extensively researched and annotated, the volume also has a summary and review section at the end,lending itself to textbook and academic applications while its main aim is to be a cultural study for public consumption.An impressive and important wealth of information has been collected here.

Rufi lailing Lorne Shirrnian Blue Heron Press 0-920266-1 2-6

I

collection of

llpoems 1997-1999.

f.o-

Lorne

Diasporan view of the world. Immense wonderful moments exist here. poetic and historic futures But they are not alone, there are also moments better forgotten or unread. In the end, however, it's an extremely rnportant piece in the business of reflection, of Armenian history and ideas and time.

Shirinian's Rough

Landing presents nearly 50 works of

Toxicity

uncommon depth and consideration. giving a cross-section of Shirinian's poetry and an understanding of the Diasporan relation to the literal and therefore mythical homeland.

Sony Music

The poem Smyma is one of the first solemn and shining moments of this collection, moving in story back and forth from the original city of Smyma to the artificial city Izmir. Alongside Smyma and other works of the same vein, the excerpts presented here from the poem cycle Earthquake live Armenian history in a few momentq blending the reality of life in an ancient Armenian village, where the rumblings of 6000 years past can be heard. with life in more recent times as defined by the catastrophe of the 1988 Spitak/ Gumri earthquake. Some poems become too specific in reference and too contemporary losing any farreaching integrity. But from his "stumblings" with themes ranging from the mathematic to the historic, stopping along the way to speak on love, Canada, dreams, his grandfather and fear, Shirinian presents a not-always harmonious and unified, but somehow Armenian.

System of a Down Entertainment, lnc.

cK62240

T[",i]',J#;*'. release by this

Armenian quartet was a great work of healy metal, this second offering from the four young Southern California natives known as System of a Down is truly a monument of music. The album moves from quick and forceful heaqr metal to more thoughtful and explorative tracks of indefinable types of music. To call this second release a more mature album would be condescending. It is complex in the musical sense beyond much of any releases of any type of music available today. The influences are too many and too essentially incorporated to be identified. Some type of fundamental Armenian current flows through the work - though no overture is made to that end - expressed (or almost not expressed at all) in lead singer Serj Thnkian's primal voice and the guitars and bass of Daron Malakian and Shavo Odadjian - if you really pay attention it even surfaces

AIM NOVEMBER

2OO1

in John Dolmayan's rain-and-thunder, pounding drums. With all the different influences vying for center-stage in this album there is no absence of the familiar fast hard rock and death metal roar of the first album which was so prevalent in the rock underground of Los Angeles during System's formative years There are a few factors, however, to be considered here: art, politics, social responsibility, and identity. As a work of art,Toxicity cannot be detracted from. In terms of politics there is also much to be said for this band which takes on global issues through their website and appearances which have helped to raise awareness and money for such causes as Genocide recognition. That political consciousness enters this album at its onset in the track Prison Song, a fully outlined ideology on matters of drug poliry and the US prison system. The deflned and developed ideas of the album's first track contrast sharply with the comments on drugs and even suicide throughout the album that are sometimes irresponsible in their ambiguity. The "selfrighteous suicide" of the album's first single, Chop Suey! is not nearly analytical enough to be a valuable statement on the act. In the midst of all thiq it seems there is an underlying appeal to the disparate strains of Armenian and American cultures with a kind of homesick appeal against any "forsaking" by the former which may be most evident in tracks such as Chop Suey! and Forest. In the end though, there is an expression in this work so Armenian and so international that it stands alone in the world of healy metal.r


The Story of a Place in Essays and Imagl

Text by

IOHN HUGHES Photos by

BRUCE C. STRONG In 56 poignant photographs, 12 essays, and seven poems, two American journalists reveal a place that neither can claim as his own, but to which both were drawn for unexpected discovery. In a work of passion that combines journalism and art,

it is the story of contemporary Armenia, unclouded by preconceived Sometimes

it

takes an oatside eye t0

see

the inside story.

Hardcom -144 pages -13"x11" Price: $50 Shipping within the US: $10 Additional $5 for Canada ordere Additional $10 for Intermtional ordes

TOPLACE YOURORDER

perceptions.



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