DESTINATION

PENG CHAU

PUT ON THOSE SUNGLASSES AND JUMP ON AN EARLY FERRY TO PENG CHAU. WITHIN 20 MINUTES, YOU’LL FIND YOURSELF WELL OFF THE BEATEN TRACK, WRITES JASON PAGLIARI

PHOTOS BY Sarin Ale

A20-minute boat ride north-east from Mui Wo on the Inter-Island Ferry lies the sleepy island of Peng Chau, familiar from a distance to all who take the ferry into town. Its rustic charm invites Lantauers to head over for a half day or longer and enjoy the peaceful village atmosphere, with some good hiking, ‘templing’ and dining options available.

Arriving at the pier, you notice the avenue of Banyan trees going inland and the old folks sitting out, chewing the fat. There’s a Wellcome on the left and an enormous modern sports hall on the right, with facilities that rival those found in Mui Wo. The sleepy main strip, Wing On Street, is lined with old-style stores supplying the usual assortment of Cantonese snacks, cakes, stationary and... bikes.

A bustling industrial centre during the 70s, thanks to its lime kiln and match factory, Peng Chau is now best known for its temples. At Lung Mo (Dragon Mother) Temple, you can touch the ‘dragon bed’ for good luck and at Seven Sisters Temple, pray for fertility. The Tin Hau Temple, meanwhile, houses a Qing dynasty stone tablet that attests to a deal the then government made with the villagers, not to commandeer their fishing vessels in the ongoing war on piracy.

A good plan for the day is to walk clockwise round the island. The coastal trail takes you past some lovely beaches and the landmark Fisherman Rock, a precariously balanced boulder over the sea. The trail then cuts inland through jungle before emerging at a horseshoe bay, facing east, where there are barbeque facilities on the beach. On a clear day West Kowloon looks surprisingly close, reminding you of the island’s proximity to modern civilisation. Next up, you’ll want to climb Finger Hill, the highest point of the island at 95 metres, with its panoramic views and giant boulders. The ascent is well signposted, and you can stop for a cold drink at the little shop halfway up with its rickety table and chairs and nonstop AM radio music. There’s a trail down the other side of Finger Hill to a pagoda on the island’s east side, if you feel you haven’t walked far enough.

Before heading home, you’ll likely want to rest up and have a bite to eat. Some of the best restaurants (all with a sensational sea view) are found on Wing On Street, where you can enjoy everything from Cantonese or Thai curry to all-day breakfast. Local specialities include fried prawns and a deliciously gloopy ‘Orange chicken’.

TIME FOR HIKING, ‘TEMPLING,’ SHOPPING AND DINING

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