Wine Etiquette by Phil Southwell

an easy guide to

ETIQUETTE

an aid for the senses

Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to the corkscrew - a useful key to unlock the storehouse of wit, the treasury of laughter, the front door of fellowship, and the gate of pleasant folly. W.E.P. French

How this all came about… Many an evening I would watch my father opening a bottle of wine just before making dinner and watch him swirling, sniffing and finally tasting going through the traditional ritual. After all that, he would simply turn to me and announce, “Son, sometimes just enjoy what’s in the glass.” I never did take much notice. To me at that young age, it all tasted the same. That was until I became interested in wine. Over the past few years I have attended tastings, conferences, wine festivals and subscribed to the odd magazine; even completed courses. However, every time I came away more confused than before. ‘Wine experts’ can overwhelm you with the complexities of wine; tell you what to look for and how it should taste. Truth be told, at the end of the day you like me, want to know a few key points about wine and the simple etiquette that goes with it, so that we don’t look like complete fools in the company of friends or colleagues. Hopefully this easy-to-use guide will form the seeds of a greater love affair with the vine.

Gareth Agnew

Preface: Ask the experts Throughout this book you will encounter anecdotes, ‘bon mots’ and handy hints from sommeliers, wine writers and those who have simply been-there and-done that. I’ve asked them to explain their passion in ways that we mere mortals can grasp. They are:

Doug Frost One of only three people worldwide to hold both a Master Sommelier and a Master of Wine title, Doug lives in Kansas City, USA. His most recent book, On Wine, released in the fall of 2001, was described by The Washington Post as “fabulous, witty, engaging and wise… [it] conveys more accumulated wine wisdom than most books 10 times as thick.” He has written about wine and spirits for many publications, including New York Times Digital, the San Francisco Chronicle, and the Kansas City Star.

Gerard Basset Gerard Basset is the founder of Hotel du Vin in the UK, and is the only person in the world to have achieved both a Master of Wine, Master Sommelier and the Bordeaux Wine MBA. He was named Best Sommelier in the World at the Trophée Ruinart in 1996, and was a runner up in the same competition in 1992, 2004 and 2007. Earlier this year he also won the Peter Lehmann Shiraz World Sommelier Award. His most recent book, The Wine Experience, was released in 2000.

Joelle Marti-Baron Joelle Marti-Baron is head sommelier at London’s Great Eastern Hotel, and was the ﬁrst woman to win the UK Sommelier of the Year award. She pioneered a Champagne tasting club at the hotel, originally for American Express Black Card holders. She was born in the southwest of France and trained at La Poularde, a 2-star Michelin restaurant between Lyon and Clermont-Ferrand, noted for its selection of non-French wines, an anomaly at the time.

Jancis Robinson OBE Jancis Robinson is one of the foremost authorities on wine internationally and, as a wine writer, is held in the same regard as Robert Parker and Hugh Johnson. She has been writing and broadcasting about wine for 30 years, and has been the FT’s wine correspondent since 1989. Jancis released two of the industry standard wine reference books, The Oxford Companion to Wine and The World Atlas of Wine. She was presented with an OBE in 2004 for ‘services to wine’.

Lisa O’Doherty Lisa O’Doherty is an independent wine consultant based in Ireland. Having begun her career as a fashion model, she soon rose to prominence as the sommelier at Dublin’s ﬁve-star Shelbourne Hotel. She currently oversees four restaurants and seven bars at The K Club, Co Kildare, home of the 2006 Ryder Cup. Lisa is also a regular contributor to the Irish Independent Newspaper.

Jason McAuliffe Jason McAuliffe is the head sommelier at The Dorchester Hotel, London. He earned his stripes working at Chez Bruce, also in London, before moving to the five-star hotel in early 2006. Trained at catering college to become a chef, he first worked at the Dorchester for a few months in 1981, before leaving to discover his love of the grape.

Bruno Murciano Bruno Murciano is sommelier at The Ritz Hotel in London. A ﬁrm advocate of the wines from his home country, Spain, Bruno is one of many heading the ‘Spanish revival’ in wine in the UK - when he took over the job at the Ritz there were just ﬁve Spanish wines on the list. Now there are nearly 40. His family run a small village bar in the wine region of Utell-Requena near Valencia, where the clientele mostly comprise local farm workers. The Ritz it ain’t.

Khuselo Mputa Khuselo Mputa is head sommelier at Belthazar Wine & Food Restaurant in Cape Town, South Africa. With his wealth of experience gained from working in London and tasting some of the best wines the world has to offer, Khuselo now deals with what is currently the worlds largest Wine-by-theglass-bar offering clients a staggering 220 different options. Khuselo has an incredible knowledge of new and old world wines.

A guide made easy Contents 1

First Impressions

Sniff, Swirl, Smell & Taste

Storing & Pouring

Basic Food & Wine Pairing

Wine Etiquette

Ordering at a Restaurant

Dinner Etiquette for the Globe Trotter

Understanding a Wine Label

Vintage Guide to Drink or not to Drink?

10 Good Health to You

11 Talk the Talk

Wine n. an alcoholic drink made from fermented grape juice

Can you recall your very first glass of wine? Ten to one it was a semi-sweet that was the ‘wine to drink’; the new age yuppies’ tipple of choice. Wine was just another alcoholic beverage; another way of kissing sobriety goodbye.

Times have changed. There are in the region of 10,000 different grape varieties in the world today, yet most of us will sample at best between six and ten. Take a stroll down to your local supermarket or off-licence and at any one time, you will be faced with at least three hundred wine estates offering a multitude of styles and all looking for a piece of the retail action. The appreciation of wine, consumption and storage has changed, as have our lifestyles. We, as consumers, are becoming a lot more savvy and demanding of quality.

Etiquette n. the code of polite behaviour in society The aim of this book is purely one of ‘wine etiquette’, not the making of, nor the process involved in making wine, as I am certainly not an ‘expert’. I, like you, simply have a keen interest in the subject and in this way wish to pass on what I have learned to you. It is not about which wine one should or should not buy, nor is it about which wines

are currently ‘en vogue’. After all, you and I have different tastes and budgets. It is simply to inform, enlighten and inspire you about “The Art of Wine” as well as provide you with a useful day-to-day reference guide. There’s the odd fact and famous quote. I’ve even picked the brains of today’s foremost authorities on wine to try and make sense of it all. So let’s hope you will use this guide to good effect at your next dinner party or get-together.

88Roughly 20 million acres of grapes are planted

worldwide! That’s 5 bottles produced for every person every year!

Note these icons:

Tip 88Did you know

1 1

First Impressions

What’s in the glass? Have you ever been to a tasting or perhaps stood beside a wine aficionado listening to him or her go on about wine and its flavours, aromas and taste? I have. I bet more than once you turned to your partner and said, “What are they on about; all I can smell are grapes!” What follows is a simple table of what to look for from the various grape varieties that might end up in your glass. Before we start, it should be noted that the words varietal and style have completely different meanings; one pertains to the grape (chardonnay/ merlot) whereas the other describes the type/style of wine (dry, off-dry, semi-sweet etc).

Got it? Good. Let’s proceed…

RED WINES By variety (grape) Cabernet Sauvignon [Cab-er-nay Saw-veen-yong] NOSE (smell)

Blackcurrant, dark berries, plums, earth, tobacco, mint

PALATE (taste) Dark berries, plums, herbs, liquorice Good tannins present/ages well

Cabernet Franc [Cab-er-nay Fronc] NOSE (smell)

Aromatic, dark berries, cinnamon, nutmeg, chocolate

PALATE (taste) Plum pudding, fruity Light tannins & body Merlot [Mer-low] NOSE (smell)

Cherries, strawberries, plum, fruitcake, meaty, spices

PALATE (taste) Berries, meatiness Softer, tannins present Pinotage [Pee-no-taagh] NOSE (smell)

Cloves, black pepper, bananas, strawberries, raspberry

PALATE (taste) Raspberry, strawberry Medium full-bodied, can be sweetish Pinot Noir [Pea-no Nwaar] NOSE (smell)

Red berries, cherries, liquorice, perfume, gamey

PALATE (taste) Silky texture, gamey taste present Relatively low tannins

By variety (grape) Ruby Cabernet [Rue-bee Cab-er-nay] NOSE (smell)

Plums, cherries, leather, grass can get spicy

PALATE (taste) Berries evident, easy drinking wine Medium bodied Shiraz [Shi-raaz] NOSE (smell)

Smokiness, herby, dark berries, liquorice, cloves

PALATE (taste) Smoky, herbs, leathery, black pepper Tannins, rich wine full-bodied Tinta Barocca [Tin-tah Ba-rock-ah] NOSE (smell)

Prunes, red berries, spicy, black pepper

PALATE (taste) Prunes, plums, earthiness Low acidity. Low tannins Zinfandel [Zin-van-del] NOSE (smell)

Blackberries, spicy, strawberries, earthy, cherries

PALATE (taste) Spicy, blackberry Full of tannins/‘Big’ wine

Note: Tannins are found in RED WINES; they originate from the pips, skins and stalks. The older the wine, the less pronounced tannins become (mellow with age). Taste tannins by sipping strong cold tea. Tannins aren’t spoken about in white wines.

WHITE WINES By variety (grape) Chenin Blanc [Shen-an Blonc] NOSE (smell)

Floral, citrus, peaches, guavas, tropical fruit, straw, honey

PALATE (taste) Crisp fruitiness, dry styles; apples/lemons

Chardonnay [Shar-don-nay] NOSE (smell)

Unwooded: Melons, apricot, mango, pineapple-citrus/ grapefruit. Wooded: vanilla, butterscotch, biscuits, almond

PALATE (taste) Medium acidity, pineapples, citrus. Wooded (as above) Note: more often than not the older Chardonnays are woodier, also more golden in colour Colombard [Colom-bar] NOSE (smell)

Floral tones, peach, pear, melon, honey & almond

PALATE (taste) Lively acidity; tropical fruit, perfume Gew端rztraminer [Ge-vurtz-tra-meaner] NOSE (smell)

Highly fragrant aroma, lychee, potpourri/roses, spicy

PALATE (taste) Low acidity; honey, apricot, musty, ripe apples

By variety (grape) Pinot Gris FRANCE & Pinot Grigio ITALY [Pea-no Gree / Pea-no Gree-joe] NOSE (smell)

Traces of apple blossom, spicy, hay

PALATE (taste) Hint of spice; generally dry, shy wine Riesling [Ree-zling] NOSE (smell)

Peaches, apples, floral/rose/ honeysuckle, cold tea

PALATE (taste) Off dry; peaches, spice. Sweet style; honey & raison Sauvignon Blanc [Saw-vee-nyon Blonc] NOSE (smell)

Gooseberries, green apples, fresh cut grass, tropical fruit

PALATE (taste) High acidity; gooseberries, asparagus & various ‘green flavours’ Sémillon [Sem-ee-yon] NOSE (smell)

Waxy honey, lemon, pineapples, grassy, gooseberries

PALATE (taste) Dry style; crisp, wooded; buttery Sweet; apricot, honey Voignier [Vea-yon-yay] NOSE (smell)

Perfume, blossom, peaches, apricots, lemons, musk

PALATE (taste) Peaches, apricots, orange peel can get wooded; with flavours of honey, biscuity, butterscotch

Food for thought… Next time you are in the kitchen, go and explore your senses by mixing various items of food with wine. For example… bite into a lemon and then have a glass of chardonnay.

What does it taste like? Or perhaps you’re walking down the aisle of your local supermarket; go to the fruit and veg section and sniff an apricot… You never know until you try.

So go and awaken your senses! Your tongue picks up bitterness at the back, sour back left and right, salt front left and right and sweet at the tip. So use it to its full potential.

And experiment!

ASK THE EXPERTS Doug Frost - “I first got involved in wine

through an uncle who had a small wine cellar at his house in California and he used to invite me down to pick a wine for dinner. I can still recall one bottle of 1968 Special Select Pinot Noir in particular. I had the pleasure of hosting my uncle and aunt for dinner a year ago and managed to source the same wine for dinner, which was very special. I worked in restaurants for pocket change during college and found wine was a subject I really enjoyed and wanted to find out more about. It’s a kind of obsessive compulsive disorder I think. There are a lot of people who make comparisons between wine and coffee; if you like your coffee with sugar, why not start with milder or softer wines such as Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. If you like your coffee black and intense, why not go for big reds. That ’s cute thinking, and it gives neophytes one more way to think about it. Trial and error, unfortunately, is the simplest way to find out what you like. Remember, there are only so many types of wine. You’ve got full-bodied wines, robust reds, lighter, fruitier reds. You have intense, spicy whites, and light, crispy whites. You have wines with sweetness and you have wines that are dry. After that, everything else falls into smaller subcategories. That’s where I start with beginners. Give someone two wines and they will likely fall into one camp or the other; from there you can start to work on varieties and regions. You develop a whole constellation from just a couple of stars. There’s no reason to spend money at the outset. But once you find the regions and varieties that compel you, go and spend a bit extra on some expensive bottles and see what you end up with. I would argue however that spending more money doesn’t mean you’re going to end up with something that’s necessarily better; you’re going to end up with something that’s rarer, or has more distinct flavours and complexities. Or you’re going to get something that needs to be stuck in a basement for twenty years. None of those things necessarily translate to mean ‘quality’. “

Sniff, Swirl, Smell & Taste

“Wine is �ottled poetry” Robert Louis Stevenson

The appreciation, write-ups and awards given to wine estates for producing outstanding wines gives us, the consumer, a helping hand and are generally a foolproof guide to quality. Next time you arrive at a dinner party with your award-winning purchase, you can be sure that it will always evoke a comment or two; picking the right wine can be that first important step up the social ladder.

But what makes or breaks a wine? 20

The most common scoring system used today is the 20 point scoring system. Others being: scoring out of 100 as well as the ‘show judging’ format.

ASK THE EXPERTS Doug Frost - “The best tool you have at your disposal is your own palate. Find out what you like and move on from that; rather than listen to what some nameless wine critic likes. Unless he’s actually coming to dinner at your house; who cares what he thinks?”

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s look at the 20 point system

three

appearance - colour, depth of colour and clarity

seven

nose - aroma, bouquet, complexity and condition

ten

the palate - style or entry, flavours, alcohol, tannins, acidity and balance

overall conclusion

acceptable, poor, excellent, needs time to mature, fine

In general bottom-end (1 star) wines achieve a score of between 13-14 mid-range

wines achieve between 15-16

top-end (5 stars)

wines achieve between 17-19

Who would have thought there was so much in a glass? What follows is a list of key descriptive words and phrases used in the wine world. Try using such phrases to describe whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in your glass (from time-to-time).

Appearance 1. Clarity Brilliant, bright, clear, turbid, dull or cloudy. 2. Depth of colour Light, translucent, pale, deep or dark?

Tilt your glass slightly to observe the colour change in the wine; it helps to use a white background.

3. Colour For white wines look for: colourless, greenystraw, straw, yellow, yellow-gold, gold, amber. And for the reds look out for: purple, violet, ruby, garnet, red, brick-red, amber, brown.

Nose 1. Aroma What do your senses tell you? 2. Bouquet - characteristic of the wine. Is it complex, powerful or non-existent? 3. Complexity Is it multi-layered? Do you smell something different every time or is it perhaps a ‘onedimensional wine’. Quality wine will have many parts or facets; it will want to keep you going back for more. 4. Condition Are there any faults present in the wine? Check for cork taint – a mouldy smell or oxidation; when wine is exposed to air it smells like sherry/port.

A great phrase to use here, provided there are no off smells, would be to say that there are ‘no off-odours present’.

Palate 88The word ‘palate’ actually refers to the roof of your mouth. 1. Style/Entry Sweet, semi sweet, dry/off dry; is it smooth or harsh? 2. Flavours Describe what you taste - berries, fruits, meaty, floral etc. 3. Alcohol High or low - is there a lingering burning sensation at the back of your throat? 4. Tannins Are they present? Is the wine aggressive/firm or smooth/silky? If you are tasting a few reds with high tannins, rinse your mouth with water between tastings to avoid a sensory overload. 5. Acidity This is important. Acid gives the wine lift; if not present a wine is said to be ‘flat or flabby’. Don’t use the word acidic, rather use firm or crisp. The reason for acid is to preserve the wine as it ages. 6. Balance A ‘well-balanced’ wine, is a harmonious wine where none of the above components dominate. A wine is unbalanced if this is not so; too much of one element or perhaps not enough of another.

Conclusion This is where you bring everything together to form a conclusion. What did you think of the wine? Would

it taste better in years-to-come or is it simply a drink-now wine?

A good idea for yourself is to keep notes (use the pages at the back of this book) to remember the wines you liked.

After all, life’s too short to drink bad wine.

ASK THE EXPERTS JASON MCAULIFFE - “At a wine tasting, you need to be careful you don’t get carried away with hundreds and hundreds of tasting adjectives. What you really need to ask is whether the fruit ratio to the acidity is balanced. Is it a complete story on your palate? Is it a harmonious wine? Once you have a harmonious wine, then you can start to notice its characteristics. People make a huge fuss over these tasting adjectives that aren’t really that important. You may be able to pick up one or two elements that you think might work with food, or whether it might be a good wine to drink on its own , but balance is ultimately all-important .”

Eight handy tips for tasting… 1. If you are doing serious tasting; try to be free of odours as this can affect your senses. Try to stay away from brushing your teeth or chewing gum prior to a tasting. 2. Try to use a glass that’s clean, clear and odourless; try to avoid cut glass as this taints the visibility of the wine. When holding the glass always hold it by the stem. This prevents finger prints and warming of the glass. 3. Try and taste the wine at its optimum temperature, where possible (see chapter 3). 4. Swirl the wine around in the glass (you can use a table for assistance) and swirl the glass in a circular motion. 5. Don’t be afraid to stick your nose into the glass – take a good whiff. Do it several times if you wish. Use the tables from chapter 1 as a reference for aroma. If you are struggling, place your hand over the glass and give the wine a gentle shake, then smell. 6. Taste. Again, don’t be afraid to ‘wash’ your mouth with the wine and try sucking in a small amount of air, awakening the aromas in your mouth . 7. If you are tasting a number of wines, it is sometimes better to spit out the wine into a spittoon. 8. Last but not least, avoid wearing perfume or aftershave - it’s amazing how much it affects what’s in the glass.

1 3

Storing and Pouring…

“Drink wine , and you will sleep well . Sleep and you will not sin . Avoid sin , and you will be saved . Ergo, drink wine and be saved” Medieval German saying

Sooner or later every wine newbie faces the ultimate question. ‘Am I serious about this wine thing?’ Or ‘am I happy to pop down to the supermarket when needs be and grab a bottle of plonk to enjoy with my dinner?’ Don’t be ashamed if you are the latter, the majority of us are… and, of course, don’t admit to it.

Either way, it’s worth considering how you store and how you pour your wine. With a newlypurchased wine which you intend consuming that night or within a week or so, it makes little difference to how you store the wine, as long as you remember to serve it as close to the right temperature as possible. On the other hand, if your intentions are otherwise:

Storing - a few useful tips • Don’t expose your wine to harsh light or temperatures; try keeping it at a constant temperature (8°C - 15ºC). Anything over 20ºC and you could risk evaporation. To preserve the clarity of wine, it is advisable to keep your investment in a dark place. • Try not to store your wines in the kitchen, or near strong odours. Stay away from vibrating areas (washing machine, tumble dryer or DIY areas). • Start to organise your wines into various estates; or by year or varietals. Try labelling or place your labels upwards so you can easily recognise the label; so much easier than scratching about for a specific wine! • Never store your wine standing up for lengthy periods of time as your cork needs to stay moist.

• There are companies and wine bars out there that can store wine on your behalf - for a nominal fee - of course. • Is your palate used to everyday easy-to-drink wines? This is something to consider before going out and spending your hard-earned money on expensive fine wines. Do you have a taste for fine wines?

So when do you drink that special wine? Wine is derived from plant matter, that means it’s still ‘alive’ in the bottle. So choosing when to drink a vintage wine can be somewhat of a ‘hit or miss’. There are numerous factors to be considered; the storage technique, the estate’s track record, whether the estate had a good winemaker that year? And was it a successful harvest? Don’t forget tannins, fruit and colour. If you have bought a case or two of a specific wine, perhaps open a bottle from time to time to see if the wine has peaked. A great excuse to savour another bottle!

88Only champagne made in the region of Champagne

in Northern France can be called Champagne – for everyone else it is simply sparkling wine or Méthode Champenoise.

Maturing The approximate period to lay down most wines is:

Quality red wine

10 - 12 years

In particular Cabernet & Shiraz matures well.

Quality white wines

6 - 8 years

Easy drinking whites and sparkling wines are usually consumed within two years of purchase.

Quality sparkling wines Vintage Ports

8 - 10 years 12 - 15+ years

If you have a few treasured bottles, consider wrapping the neck of the bottle(s) in cling wrap, it’s a great preservation technique. If you are looking to purchase wine to store for a period of time; try to buy wines with a good tannin, acid & fruit structure (acidity is important for white wines).

ASK THE EXPERTS

Gerard Basset - “The older the wine, the more careful you have to be when opening it. It won’t have been in contact with oxygen for some time, and sediment may have formed, so it’s important to keep the bottle very flat when opening it, and then decant it to remove the sediment. When it comes to allowing wines to breathe, you need to be careful; too much oxygen too quickly can make an old wine turn bad in a short period of time. With younger wines you don’t have to be as careful”.

Pouring notes Two important factors to consider when pouring 1. The temperature 2. The glass

The temperature By this we are referring to the temperature of the wine when served. This practise can be overlooked most of the time; however there is much to be said about serving wines at the right temperature. Try it for yourself and taste the difference.

Full-bodied red wines Light / Table red wines

14ºC - 18ºC 10ºC - 14ºC

The jury is still out as to whether or not decanting improves the overall quality of the wine. However, when all is said and done it does add a certain amount of class to the ritual. You decide.

Wooded white wines Unwooded white wines Sweet wines & Rosé

10ºC - 14ºC 6ºC - 10ºC 4ºC - 6ºC

If you need to chill a bottle quickly, make an ‘ice bath’ in your bucket. Fill the bucket with ice and water, add a little salt and leave to chill.

Premier Sparkling wines 6ºC - 10ºC Sparkling wines (slightly colder than above)

88That the inverted bulge underneath a champagne bottle is called a ‘punt’. The design is there to withstand the

pressure when bottled. The average speed of a cork leaving the bottle is 13 meters per second.

Ports Dessert wines

16ºC - 18ºC 5ºC - 8ºC

88A bottle of opened wine stored in the refrigerator lasts between 6-16 times longer than it would if stored at room temperature.

The glass

Tulip glasses are the most commonly used type of glassware. The main purpose is to funnel the aroma of the wine and enhance the flavour. As this is a simple guide to wine etiquette I didn’t want to confuse you with the various other styles available. However, there are various shapes and sizes on the market today. Remember, no cut glass - you want to be able to see what you’re drinking! And keep your fingers away from the bowl. Glasses should always be stored upright this enables the air circulate around the bowl and prevent off odours.

When dining, your wine glass selection will be placed at the top right side of your knife and the order of use will be from right to left or anti-clockwise.

Wine Glasses

Bordeaux

Burgundy

White

Riesling

Champagne

Tasting

Dessert

Sherry

Port

There are of course many others we could include, however this book is â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;an easy guideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;; baby steps.

ASK THE EXPERTS Gerard Basset - “Wine is such a wide topic that is just makes a lot of people feel uncomfortable. That’s perfectly normal; it’s like when you go to buy a new computer and someone tells you in depth about all the features and expects you to understand it all. Even experienced wine tasters may struggle to remember a wine they last tasted 15 years ago.

When tasting a wine, you shouldn’t dive straight in looking for the vanilla, or the blackberry, or whatever aromas are linked to the wine. You need to take a step back and ask yourself simple questions: Do I like this wine? Does it taste fresh? The kind of thing you might ask about a piece of music; you don’t listen to music and try to jot down all the technical aspects, you simply decide whether the melody is nice. Once you’ve sampled a wine, then you can start digging a bit more. But from the outset, concentrating too hard on certain aspects of the wine means you are ultimately going to miss the bigger picture. Reputation only counts for so much, and if a wine is from a renowned area, such as Burgundy or Napa Valley, it might have a premium price tag attached to it. Some wines deserve it, many don’t. It’s like saying that every Brazilian is a good footballer. You and I know that’s not the case, despite what many might think”.

Basic Food and Wine Pairing

‘Wine is a journey not a destination so enjoy the ride’ Anonymous

This could be a simple open-and-closed chapter and I could use the old analogy, red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat & fish – which, lets face it, everyone probably already knows. However, it’s not always that cut and dried. There are several books on the market covering this subject in great detail, imploring you to have this wine with that course and this cheese with that wine (by the way, wine and cheese are one of the hardest pairings) and so on and so forth. But what do they know? We don’t live in that idealised, wine-savy world. We’re all different and we all have different tastes. So how do you find what works for you? Simply this…

experiment!

Find out what appeals to you…

don’t be shy!

ASK THE EXPERTS Khuselo Mputa - “When it comes

to pairing wine with food, common sense is just as important as experience. When you think of a food and wine combination, you should try to think of the wine as an ingredient to the dish. For example, if you are having smoked salmon, you could try a Sauvignon Blanc alongside it – it’s very crisp, like lemon juice.” Use the following as a guide. Don’t forget under Ordering at a restaurant (chapter 6) I have included wines to order with different styles of food.

Starters Caviar

- Champagne / Sparkling wine

Oysters

- Sauvignon Blanc / dry Chenin Blanc

Chicken salad

- Riesling or light, mediumbodied wine

Seafood salad

- Sauvignon Blanc

Quiche

- Sauvignon Blanc

Cold meats

- Pinot Noir

Onion tart

- Gew端rztraminer

Mains Chicken Roast

- Pinot Noir, dry ros辿, Sauvignon Blanc or a fruity red

Curry

- Gew端rztraminer or Chardonnay (if creamy)

Turkey Roast

37 - Shiraz/Zinfandel

Fish Smoked Salmon - Wooded Chardonnay (with creamy sauce) Tuna

- Merlot (surprised?) / Pinot Noir

Shellfish

- Gew端rztraminer, Chardonnay, Riesling

Saltwater fish

- Wooded Chardonnay or a wooded Chenin Blanc

Calamari

- Dry white / Sauvignon Blanc

Meat Juicy steak

- Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot

Saucy steak

- Wooded Chardonnay

Lamb

- Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot

Roast Beef

- Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon

Stews/Casseroles - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz

Game Ostrich

– Pinotage, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon

Dessert Strawberries

- Champagne/Sparkling wine

Fruit salad

- Semi-sweet Riesling

Ice cream

- Muscat

Apple pie

- Sweet Chenin Blanc

Cakes

- Champagne/Sparkling wine

Crème brûlée

- Sherry

Baked dessert

- Port

Cheese 38

Brie

- Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir

Edam

- Port, Chardonnay

Goat’s

- Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc

Mature cheddar - Unwooded Chardonnay, Shiraz Camembert

- Dry White wine, Sparkling wine

Cream

- Cabernet Sauvignon

Ricotta

- Chardonnay

Blue

- Dessert wine

Feta

- Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Gouda

- Pinotage

Roquefort

- Riesling

Stilton

- Dessert wine

I hope that has got the glands working overtime and given you the inspiration to go out there and…

experiment

Wine Etiquette

General Practises

“A meal without wine is like a day without sunshine” Louis Pasteur

Now you know the basics, it’s time to put them into practice. As always this can be quite tricky; here common sense, coupled with a few handy hints, should help you to navigate your way through any situation. Although a lot of it comes down to simple common sense. Whether it’s a corporate event, a private dinner party or even a wedding, how you conduct yourself tells a lot about you as an individual.

‘A host is never obliged to serve a gift of food or drink & a guest is never justified in feeling slighted if his doesn’t appear on the dinner table ’ Craig Claiborne – Elements of Etiquette

40 So, let us cover a few pointers… As a guest to a dinner party/drinks party It is common courtesy to arrive with, at the very least, a bottle of red or white wine per couple. Should you arrive with two bottles - one being a present for the host - try to make the ‘gift’ bottle of superior quality to the bottle you intend drinking that evening.

Arriving with a white or sparkling wine? A nice touch here would be to make sure the wine is chilled.

As a host When it comes to dealing with wine your main objective is to make sure your wine compliments your food selection (see chapter 4) and that there are sufficient amounts. A general guide for an occasion; men: 1 to 1.5 bottles; women: 1 bottle (based on 1 bottle = 6 glasses). That is, of course, unless a member of your party has drawn the short straw, and has to drive! Remember to have generous amounts of both red and white wine.

At the start Your guests expect a drink on arrival no matter what the occasion, so make provisions. And it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always have to be sparkling wine.

Try and serve your guests a lightly styled wine, you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want them drunk at the start of the night!

Get the temperature correct Make sure your whites arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t too cold as this will detract from the aroma and taste (see chapter 3) and try and have your reds at room temperature.

Opening wine Invest in a foil cutter (for the removal of the foil or plastic wrapping on the top of the bottle); this will not only make your life a lot easier, it also adds a certain professionalism to the ritual. Try and make the opening as effortless as possible. Perhaps a good idea would be to open a few bottles prior to guests arriving.

What to look for in an ‘off wine’. Poor wine is generally down to either poor storage or poor bottling practise, and while care should be taken to ensure prevention of the former, little can be done about the latter. Cork-taint can occur at the bottling stage, resulting in a contaminated (or fungus-infected) cork. This gives the wine a wet cardboard aroma. Oxidation or discolouration occurs through exposure to oxygen, either from incorrect storage, or from resealing an already opened bottle. An opened bottle generally retains its quality for about 48 hours. It is important to note that pieces of cork in a wine does not mean the wine is faulty.

Decanting wine

Decanting is all about oxidising your wine, letting it breathe – bringing out its true potential. Typically one would decant a wine that is five years or older. But beware, simply opening a bottle and letting it ‘breathe’ has very little effect on the wine, as you are only exposing a very small surface area of wine. There is no need to decant white wine, as the objective with white wine is to keep the aromas and flavours fresh. It is also not necessary to decant young (or cheap) reds. Decant your wine 1 – 2 hours prior to drinking.

Choose the right glass Should there be a number of glasses per setting, remember start pouring from the right and either work in an anti-clockwise direction if bunched, or from right to left if the glasses are in a line. Remember the order of serving wines; young before old, dry before sweet & white before red.

Pouring wine Firstly, check for any faults in the wine (off odours, off-colour or whether the wine is ‘corked’). If it’s an informal gathering simply pour those guests around you leaving yourself until last - then place the bottle in the middle of the table for others to help themselves.

That the lip of a wine glass is shaped inward so as to capture the aromas of the wine.

ASK THE EXPERTS Joelle Marti-Baron - “An easy way

to tell if a wine is corked is if it smells like an old cupboard, or a loft that you haven’t been in for six months. The damp, dusty smell hits you right away, and there would be no taste of fruit at all from the wine. For formal gatherings good etiquette dictates, unless of course you have a waiter, that you pour for your guests starting with the most important, (or senior) lady at the table and work your way around clockwise ending with yourself, each time pouring on their right hand side. Never pour wine into another person’s glass without asking them first. When pouring, hold the bottle just above the glass, off centre. Fill the glass one third of the way (never full!). When finished, gently twist and pull the bottle towards yourself (watch for those drops).”

Wine per course Should you attend or perhaps host a dinner which consists of a number of wines (i.e. a specific wine for every course) don’t be alarmed if your wine glass is cleared away after every course; this is a common practise.

Speeches & toasts One golden rule here; be upstanding, be sincere, be brief & be seated – simple as that! If you are a guest making a speech always remember to thank your host and never ‘outshine the master’; after all he is the one who invited you. If you are the one being toasted however, etiquette dictates that you thank those around you.

Remember …be brief! 44

As a host Keep an eye out to make sure your guests are sufficiently topped up. Remember! Not everyone will share your tastes, so cover all bases. And don’t forget to have water available.

Invest in a vacuum wine saver; it will keep your wine fresher for longer. Also, try this; should you spill red wine, treat it with white wine.

ASK THE EXPERTS Jason McAuliffe - “My interest in wine came to me through my parents; they used to have dinner parties with their friends and wheel me out around the time it got to the chocolate stage, even if I was in bed. They always had these very exotic French first growths on the table, which I found really interesting. My dad used to make his own wine as well – there were always demijohns bubbling away around the house. There’s a great saying that ‘there’s no such thing as great wines, just great corks’, and that is unquestionably the most important phrase I’ve come across. You can buy a case of wine from 1961 and out of that case of 12, there might be two or three that are going to be absolutely benchmark, five or six that could be slightly oxidised and the rest undrinkable. It all comes down to how well that natural product – the cork – will care for the wine; how much oxygen, if any, will get in the bottle, and whether the wine will age as it is supposed to. With screw caps, you absolutely know what you’re getting every time. Ten or twenty years ago there was a lot more performance; a lot more ritual. The wines tended not to be of a good quality, so the theatre aspect was very important. Nowadays you have the likes of screwcap wine, which is made exactly how the winemaker wants it, and tastes exactly how he intended. There may not be as much showmanship, but the product is far, far better. At the end of the day, what consumers really want is what’s in the glass. How it gets there isn’t as important as it used to be. A good sommelier has to almost be a psychologist these days as well as a wine waiter. You need to judge your table first. If they’re quite affable people, I would always try and lead them towards what might possibly work for the group, or give them a couple of options. On one hand, you want to take them on a journey; on the other hand, you don’t want to make them think you’re ripping them off. People do have stigmas, but the key to being a good sommelier is not just to make recommendations, but to have the guest really enjoy them. You need to really keep up with wines, as new wines can suddenly come out of nowhere and really take off. Just today, I tasted a New Zealand

wine that was so above the level that everyone else was producing, that it was worth spending extra time just to savour it. It sounds like a glamorous job, walking round a room, enjoying wines, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard work singling out wines that are really attractive to your pallet. Find those one or two things that make a difference, pass them on to clients, who will then tell their friends, and so onâ&#x20AC;?.

1 6

rdering at a O Restaurant

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I cook with wine; sometimes I even add it to the foodâ&#x20AC;? W.C. Fields

Be honest now…. You’re at a restaurant and have to choose the wine for the table. Prior to ordering, have you ever asked those around you what they will be eating? No? You’re not the only one. The culinary experience isn’t just about the food we eat; it’s about the wine that goes with the food. The two need to compliment each other. Make no mistake, it’s not easy trying to navigate a wine menu AND take in the needs of those around you at the table; I must be honest, I’m not a huge fan of ordering wine myself. However sometimes, it just has to be done. So let’s try and take some of the pain out of ordering wine at a restaurant.

Sommelier in the house?

If you’re lucky, (most of us aren’t) there will be a wine expert at the venue to help you through the wine menu. Don’t be shy to ask him/her for a recommendation; also ask about the house wine as ten to one it will be quaffable and reasonably priced, as he/she would have hand picked it. However in your quest to find the ‘Holy Grail’, expect a barrage of questions. Be honest and tell him/her what you’re looking for. If discretion is the name of the game, perhaps pick out a few wines in the price range you are happy with and ask his/her opinion. Rather that, than be forced into an awkward situation where the sommelier recommends wines that are way out of your price range.

The Lone Ranger? If you find yourself in the unenviable position of being the ‘last man standing’ and your waiter looks as lost as you, start looking for familiar labels; wines that you recognise and have had good experiences with before. On average a person will consume one glass for starters, two glasses for mains and a glass for dessert.

You vs. the ritual You’ve ordered the wine and now its time to see if indeed it’s the one you ordered.

The presentation Check that it is the right bottle. Check the year (vintage). And finally run your hand over the bottle to check if it’s the right temperature.

The opening Here you should be offered to check the cork, take a glance, have a quick whiff, if you wish (although it’s not always necessary), to see if there are any off odours.

The tasting You now have the opportunity to taste and discover if there are any real faults with the wine. Remember, take the glass by the stem, take a quick glance at the colour, swirl, sniff and finally taste. This should all be done in an elegant and timely fashion. You cannot send the wine back if it doesn’t agree with your palate. It is simply to see if there are any faults with the wine.

It is not common practise or good etiquette to take home your half-finished bottle.

Faults Don’t be intimidated by the waiter or sommelier when it comes to a faulty wine. If you notice a problem, send it back! If the wine looks, smells or tastes faulty to you, ask one of the guests in your party – discreetly, of course - to sample it but don’t drink half the bottle and then complain.

Corkage fee & bring your own (BYO) Few of the top restaurants allow you to bring your own wine(s) unless it’s a special vintage that’s not on the menu, or a very expensive bottle. However, good etiquette would dictate that you phone ahead and enquire. Restaurants that do have a BYO policy may well charge corkage and this is at their own discretion.

‘Tricky’ meals Sooner or later, you’re going to be in a food-pairing situation that requires a bit of forethought, especially when it comes to ethnic cuisine. The following pairings tend to work well.

Chinese - Sémillon or Sauvignon Blanc Indian - Gewürztraminer/Riesling/Chenin Blanc Italian - Unoaked Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc /Cabernet Franc Mexican - Riesling/Fruity Chenin Blanc/Zinfandel Sushi

- Sauvignon Blanc or Saki

Thai

- Riesling/Aromatic Sauvignon Blanc /Voignier

And remember, next time you’re out for a meal and left with the task of ordering the wine, don’t forget to ask those around you what they will be eating.

1 7

Dinner Etiquette for the globe trotter

‘Sleep not when others speak , sit not when others stand , speak not when you should hold your peace , walk not on while others stop’ George Washington

Toast .n

an act of raising glasses at a gathering and drinking together in honour of a person or thing. Like it or not we are now living in what has been termed as a ‘Global Community’ and the need to become more informed about our ‘neighbours’ is more important than ever before. What one country may consider correct another may not, and business deals can be won or lost due to poor local knowledge.

America Traditionally the east coast is more traditional/ conservative than the west coast in so far as the lifestyle in the west is more laid back. It is important to note though that wherever you may be, Americans do place great importance on time so if you are running late for a meeting or function do let your host know. America represents a diverse number of nationalities and they are very accepting of other people and cultures. Compliments are dished out freely so donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be surprised if you indeed receive one or two. American love to eat, as well as entertain and table etiquette is not as strict as other countries, however common sense should always prevail â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it is acceptable to decline certain food and drinks.

Placing for a formal dinner

Americans are fairly relaxed when it comes to formal placing at the dinner table but if you are doing business with your host expect to be seated beside him/her and your hostâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wife/husband will be seated along side your other half. Dinners are typically a time to get to know you and build up rapport.

Speeches & toasts You can expect a toast in your honour or at the very least an acknowledgement by the way of raising a glass in your honour. Should you decide to reciprocate with a toast or speech it is always important

to make sure your’s and everyone elses’ glass is half full; when clinking the glass make eye contact with those you are toasting. Don’t forget Americans have a great sense of national pride, so never insult their country.

Business breakfasts are common and can start anytime from 7am, so be prepared.

Britain and Ireland Business or social culture dictates that you always RSVP in a timely manner in writing or by phone even if you cannot make the function.

Placing for a formal function The male guest of honour sits on the hostess’ right. The next most important man sits on her left. The female guest of honour sits on the host’s right. The second most important woman sits on the host’s left. Men and women should be alternately seated. Couples should be separated. There may well be place cards at a formal dinner.

Social manners Males should seat females and rise when they leave and return to the table (this is not always expected at semi-formal functions).

Speeches & toasts Speeches are normally left until the end of a meal. It is customary for all to stand when giving the toast, with the exception of the recipient who will remain seated. With many toasts, the recipient is expected to reply with a speech, which could vary in length.

Tradition ‘Passing the port’ – a British tradition, a bottle of port may arrive with the cheeses at the end of the meal. The host will pour himself a glass and pass the port on to his left or clockwise around the table. When the port comes to you help yourself or pass it on, but don’t hold onto it …

China

In China you are not expected to know the various dining etiquettes; however, you will be held in great respect if you do. The Chinese are big drinkers. It does not matter if it is lunch or dinner; as long as a meal is being hosted, there will be alcohol. Chinese wine is their favourite (60% alcohol), followed by red wine.

Placing for a formal dinner The Chinese like to hold banquets for their guests - for them it is a way of relationship building. For a formal banquet, invitations will be sent and there will be place cards on the table. In restaurants the host will normally sit near the kitchen door;

however, sometimes the host may place their family or junior guests there, for ease of conversation for the host and guests. It has also become more common for the host to sit next to foreign guests of honour. Meal noises are considered okay as this shows a ‘culinary appreciation’. A clean plate indicates that you are still hungry & it is the hosts’ responsibility to see that you are continually served with food & drink, so always leave a little food on your plate.

Speeches & toasts The most common expression for toasting is Gan bei, meaning “dry cup”, or bottoms up. Safe topics for toasts are friendship, co-operation, the desire to reciprocate the hospitality and mutual benefits. Do not pour your own drink as it shows a lack of protocol. Should you be taken to a restaurant, you may well be expected to toast at least once during the meal. Whilst making your speech never point with your index finger. If you have to, use your open hand. It is considered impolite to fight over the bill or worse, split the bill. The host is expected to pick up the bill.

France You’d expect a dinner in the ‘spiritual home’ of wine to have all the best varietals the country has to offer. However, the French are fiercely territorial, so don’t be surprised if the most exotic wine

on your table only comes from ten or so miles down the road.

Placing for a formal dinner The most honoured position is at the head of the table, usually taken by the host. The guests of greatest importance will be seated to their left and right. If a couple is hosting the dinner, one will sit at either end of the table. Dinner is not generally a time to discuss business, unless it is brought up by the host. Rather, it is an excuse for everyone to get to know each other.

Speeches & toasts When the aperitif is served, you must wait for the host to give his or her speech before continuing. You must not commence eating until the hostess has said â&#x20AC;&#x153;bon appetit.â&#x20AC;?

Italy

Business matters are generally a good topic of conversation during an Italian meal, and it is seen as a good time to develop trust between colleagues.

Placing for a formal dinner Like in France, if a couple is hosting, they will be placed at either end of the table. A formal dinner in Italy is generally planned weeks in advance, and guests will be notified by post. Couples may be broken up and seated next to people they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know, in an effort to promote conversation.

Should you be visiting a country where the etiquette is

foreign to you; it is always advisable to contact the local consulate’s cultural attaché to find out more.

The term toasting comes from the Roman practice of putting a piece of burnt bread into the goblet to mellow the flavour of the wine. (In those days wine tasted like vinegar).

Japan An invitation to a function, formal or casual, is important in Japanese culture – it indicates trust. Japanese protocol stipulates that the host picks up the bill. Most entertaining is done at restaurants; however, if you are invited back to your host’s house consider this an honour. As a visitor, learn to bow when appropriate.

Placing for a formal dinner The host with the highest ranking guest would sit at the centre of the table. That guest will be to his immediate right and the least important guest will be placed near the door or entrance.

Speeches & toasts If a toast is made in your honour be sure to reciprocate with one of your own. If you decide to propose a toast, be sure to thank you host for his hospitality and try not to throw in any jokes. ‘Kampei’ - and not chinchin, that’s colloquial for penis - is cheers in Japanese.

Expect everyone at the table to repeat the word and clink their glasses. Allow your host to take the first sip. Never fill your own glass up; your host or his colleague will. Conversation is fairly subdued during meal time. The Japanese love to drink although it is not favoured in excessive amounts.

Russia Russia is, of course, the land of vodka, so, as you can imagine, they love to drink. Be careful. A lot of Russians like to do business after a few – so it’s important to know your limit. They are a very proud nation, and take pride in their culture, and as such, they expect the rest of the world to admire them. Business dining is becoming more popular with Russians.

Placing for a formal dinner

The most senior person(s) will sit in the centre. As a guest you sit in the middle directly opposite your counterpart. The dinner is commonly the time when you ‘seal the deal’. Business dinners are somewhat lavish affairs and you will be treated well; most of the time spouses are not invited, so enquire prior to the engagement.

Good etiquette would be to give a short thank-you

toast to your host and not forgetting the vodka of course – neat!

Speeches & toasts Toasting is, by all accounts, a very important part of Russian dining. Never begin eating before a toast has been made. Glasses will be raised throughout the toast but don’t worry it’s normally a short affair. If you are brave enough to cheers with your glass you are obliged to ‘down’ or ‘neck’ the contents of your glass. Traditionally, the glass was then thrown into the fire, so don’t be surprised if this happens.

Spain The Spanish typically eat their biggest meals at lunch time between 2pm and 4pm. A typical lunch will consist of several courses. After that, it is not uncommon to follow lunch with a siesta. Dinners start late in the evening around 9pm; typical meals here are Tapas and salads, light meals. Spain is the 3rd largest producer of wine in the world and the 2nd largest producer of sparkling wine known as ‘Cava’. Spain is primarily a winedrinking country with many of its regions producing its own special wines. The typical table wines you can expect are Rioja’s and Valdepeñas. In many restaurants wine is included in the advertised price of the meal – so don’t be surprised.

Dinner etiquette When you’re invited to a Spaniard’s home, good etiquette would dictate that you arrive with a gift for the hostess. Prior to the commencement of dinner remember to remain standing until you are invited to sit down. The host gives the first toasts; however this may not be at the start of the meal, so be prepared. The honoured guest should return the toast later.

In business Spaniards place great importance on the character of the person with whom they do business and this is carried through when eating out. Spaniards often like to stay and converse at the table after a meal, especially if the conversation is good and can last quite a while.

ASK THE EXPERTS Jancis Robinson - “What’s

the strangest wine drinking tradition I’ve encountered in a foreign country? Red wine for breakfast in rural Spain”.

Scandinavia The Scandinavians have a very strong sense of national identity. Their ethics are fairly relaxed; reputations are built up over time as a result of personal actions and not by conforming to certain norms or standards.

Placing for formal functions The host determines the seating order, the guest of honour is seated to the right of the hostess (or the host, if men only).

Speeches & toasts Speeches are made on occasion between courses and the host may toast individuals, or guests may toast each other. It is common for the host to propose a toast typically with schnapps â&#x20AC;&#x201C; at the beginning of a meal. It is not considered appropriate to drink before this, and guests should not begin eating before everyone is served. The guest of honour or new guests are expected to say a few words of thanks after the meal. When toasting raise your glass, and make eye contact. When you finish your toast, eye contact should also be kept while lowering your glass.

When leaving the table at the end remember to thank your host for the dinner.

Wines of the World Have you ever wondered which countries produce the popular and lesser-known varieties?

Red Wines Argentina

- Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Rioja, Tempranillo.

Australia

- Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Merlot, Syrah/ Shiraz.

Bulgaria

- Dimyat, Gumza, Mavrud.

California

- Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Grenache, Petit Syrah, Syrah/ Shiraz, Zinfandel

Chile - Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot. France

- Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Malbec, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah/Shiraz.

Keep an eye out for wines from the Bordeaux region. Italy

- Amarona, Barbaresco, Barolo, Brancello, Brunello di Montalcino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah / Shiraz. New Zealand

- Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir.

South Africa

- Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Pinotage, Syrah/ Shiraz.

Spain

- Brancellao, Bobal, Cencibel, Grenache, Mazuela, Rioja, Tempranillo.

White Wines Argentina

- Torrontés.

Australia

- Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Traminer.

California

- Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc.

Chile

- Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc.

France

- Chardonnay, Chablis, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Meursault, Pinot Gris, PouillyFuissé, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon.

Germany

- Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Silvaner.

Italy

- Chardonnay, Frascati, Gavi, Goldmuskateller, Kerner, Malvasía, Orvieto, Pinot Grigio, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Silvaner, Soave, Traminer, Vermentino, Verdicchio dei castelli di Jesi.

New Zealand

- Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc.

Portugal

- Vinho Verde.

Romania

- Feteasca Alba, Gewürztraminer, Grasa de Cotnari, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Tamaioasa, Romaneasca, Traminer. South Africa

- Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Muscat, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon.

Spain

- Airén, Albillo, Doña Blanca, Macabeo, Moscatel, Pedro Ximénez, Torrontés.

88That one bunch of grapes will give you approximately

one glass of wine and that one vine should yield about 10 bottles of wine.

A globetrotter’s reference to worldly styles

France: Brut

Sec

Very dry Dry

Demi sec

Semi-sweet

Doux

Sweet

Blanc de Blanc

White wine made from white grapes

Blanc de Noir

White wines made from red grapes

Germany:

Auslese

Select bunches of ripe grapes

Beerenauslese

Select berries

Halbtrocken

Medium dry

Kabinett

Grower’s selection

Trocken

Dry

Spätlese

Late-picked grapes with more sugar

Italy: Abboccato/Amabile

Semi-sweet

Amarone

Dry/bitter

Classico

Wines that come from good regions

Dolce

Sweet

Riserva

Wines with age

Secco

Dry

Typically produced in Canada and Germany; Ice Wine is a dessert wine made by leaving the grapes on the vine long into late autumn until the first frost which freezes the water in the grape. The frozen grape is then harvested and crushed. The remaining juice is much more concentrated, resulting in sweet wine.

ASK THE EXPERTS: Joelle Marti-Baron - “Very

often when drinking champagne, the question arises as to the merits of vintage and non-vintage champagne. The approach to champagne is very different to that of wine; it is a market that is brand-driven. People associate themselves with certain champagnes; you may have a Veuve Cliquot drinker, or a Bollinger drinker. It’s a totally different approach. Eighty percent of champagne sold is brand-driven. There’s more behind the bubbles; there are a lot of really exciting champagnes out there that you may never have heard of”.

Terroir The characteristics of a vineyard; soil , climate & sun

1 8

Understanding a wine label

â&#x20AC;&#x153;If God forbade drinking, would He have made wine so good?â&#x20AC;? Cardinal Richlieu

First impressions count for a lot these days. When it comes to wine labels, it’s all about presentation and the ability to read and understand what you are reading. Market research shows that most people buy a particular wine either because they recognize the brand name or they are attracted by the packaging. But this isn’t always a guarantee of quality. So next time, before your eye falls on the bottle with the cute elephant, or fancy font, take a good look at the label. It’s not as complicated as you might think.

881 in 12 bottles of wine with a cork closure is ‘corked’ therefore screw-tops aren’t that bad, are they?

The Label

1. Name of wine 2. Grape variety 3. Region of origin 4. Vintage (year of harvest) 5. Alcohol content 6. Bottle capacity 7. Country of origin Although not common these days, you may also come across the following; Wine analysis 1 : RS = 3.30 g/l TA = 5.77 g/l pH = 3.51

1 Figures used vary from wine to wine

So what does it all mean? 1. RS = Residual sugar. This is the amount of sugar remaining in the wine & indicates the style of wine. ‘Dry’ wines will have around 2 – 4 g/l of sugar (not more than 5g/l). Some examples; Sauvignon Blanc around 3 – 6 g/l, Chardonnays vary between 3 – 8 g/l, while Rieslings are generally around 6 – 12 g/l. These are all approximate amounts and will vary according to the winemaker. 2. TA = Acid content. Gives the wine its character. There are four types of acids found on wine; Tartaric, malic, lactic and citric. Bottled wines will have an acidic makeup of between 4.5 – 7.5g/l. 3. pH = The ‘active’ acidity or alkalinity in the wine. 3.0 - 3.4 are normal for whites & 3.3 - 3.6 for reds. Again these are desirable amounts. A low ph will give you a ‘crisp’ wine.

88Grape varieties do not determine the degree of sweetness in the wine; the winemaker does. Any grape can be made sweet or dry.

ASK THE EXPERTS Lisa O’Doherty - “No matter where you work, you are always going to have people who don’t know about wine. I served a woman once who insisted that her wine was corked because there was a tiny piece of cork in the glass. You try to restrain yourself from saying “well, actually, no, corked means something completely different.” In general though, people are becoming far more accustomed to wine and wine etiquette. The most important thing to remember when pouring a bottle of wine is firstly to get a good strong hold on it. You often see people acting a bit poncy, holding it by the bottom of the bottle, but that’s only for show and can be more trouble than it’s worth. With white wine in particular, don’t hold it by the label. Labels tend to be glued on, and if a bottle has been sitting in an ice bucket for any considerable amount of time, that label is prone to slipping off if you hold it. Hold it up towards the neck, pour it slowly. Also, always pour just over a third of a glass; it might seem stingy, but if you pour any more, it might come back over the top of the glass. And when removing the bottle, twist it about 90 degrees; that twisting action will catch the last drop. Wait a second to see if there are going to be any more drips, and then move on. When it comes to pouring champagne, the key is to pour each glass just a tiny amount, let it settle, and then fill up the glass some more. If you have a tray of champagne glasses, why not pour a little champagne into each glass and then go back to the start? You’ll find it doesn’t froth as much. The big thing to remember with champagne is to make sure it’s cold. Champagne should hiss when opened, not pop or froth out the top. Also, twist the bottle, not the cork; keep your thumb over the top of it, twist it slowly and you should begin to feel the cork loosen. I was at a sommelier competition, and the three top sommeliers in Europe had to open a magnum of champagne and pour 20 glasses. Every single bottle had froth pouring out the top when they were opened, not because the sommeliers were at fault, but because they had been out of the ice for too long and they weren’t cold enough. I always come across people who like to open a bottle of wine before a dinner party, to ‘air’ it. How wide do they think the top of a bottle of wine is?

How much air do you think will be able to get in to it? What you need to do to air it is put it in a big wide jug – you don’t need a fancy crystal decanter – leave it for an hour or two, and if you like, get a funnel and stick it back in the bottle before your guests arrive. The difference is about ten years; you will artificially age a wine so much. I get people saying to me they ‘don’t like wine.’ But that’s like saying you don’t like food. You just haven’t found a wine you like yet. You have to experiment; especially at an entry level. It should be fun”.

1 9

Vintage Guide to drink or not to drink?

‘Good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used’. William Shakespeare

The phrase ‘getting better with age’ is synonymous with wine – at least to a point. The table below examines whether or not it is indeed time to crack open your prized treasures. It is worth noting, however, that this is a basic guide, and how you store and look after your wines will have a lot to do with their ageing potential. Because of the fickle nature of, well, nature, wineries around the world have varying success with their grapes. In essence it comes down to a few key factors, which have an influence on the wine’s quality and ageing potential. • Location • Soil Type • Variety of grape planted • Viticulture practices at the vineyard • The climate

Country

'92

'93

'94

'95

'96

'95

'96

France Bordeaux Red Burgundy Red Burgundy White Rh么ne North Rh么ne South Vintage Champagne

Spain Rioja

Italy Chianti Tuscany

Australia Coonawarra Hunter Valley

Chile Reds

New Zealand Hawks Bay Malborough

South Africa Cape Red Cape White

USA Napa Valley Reds

Chardonnay '92

'93

'94

KEY

Give it time

Drink

Drink or hold

Avoid

Past its prime

'97

'98

'99

'00

'01

'02

'03

'04

'05

'97

'98

'99

'00

'01

'02

'03

'04

'05

Note: Non-vintage champagnes/sparkling wines are typically consumed shortly after being purchased; so if you are looking for consistant flavour you are sometimes better opting for NV.

ASK THE EXPERTS Bruno Murciano - “I am from Utiel – Requena, one of the oldest wine regions in South – Eastern Spain. My village counts about 900 inhabitants and is completely surrounded by vineyards. Wine is considered a part of our Mediterranean diet. The smell of the grapes when harvested; the smell of grape-juice from cellars and bodegas, the taste of the toast wine-bread when back from school, all memories and aromas that are part of my childhood. Wine was part of friendship, celebration and life understanding. At the very beginning wine was made to complement our needs; today, it’s actually a part of big business. Especially when you realise the prices and the markups! On my first lunch with my mother-in-law out in a restaurant, I ordered a bottle of Mateus Rosé; as she was paying I was looking for something easy-going and not to take advantage of her wallet. The wine we received was odd, corked and undrinkable so, I stood up and mentioned it to one of the waiters on the side, and he sent the owner over to me. “Young boy,” he said, “you haven’t a clue whatsoever about what Mateus is all about, so better you go back to your table and enjoy your lunch!” And that is what I did, having water instead and explaining to my mother-in-law that I was driving. Just so I didn’t spoil the whole thing. All sommeliers know that when a very expensive bottle has been ordered and opened, and is either corked or is not delivering as expected, as long as the customer is happy or excited, you keep your mouth shut!

But on occasions, you are treated like a monkey, such as when the ‘brilliant’ customer sends back an excellent bottle of wine just to show off his power as a VIP customer. All mistakes can be avoided with proper communication between sommelier and customer”.

Spain has the largest area of vineyards in the world, but ranks only third in terms of production.

1 10

Good health to you

‘Wine is the thinking person’s health drink’ Dr. Philip Norrie - General Practioner, vineyard owner, author of Wine and Health

Many an article has been written on the merits of red wine. I’m sure that you have heard of the French Paradox on red wine - in a nutshell, it is said that a glass of red wine a day reduces the threat of coronary disease. Red wine - in moderation, it must be said, also contributes to lowering your blood pressure, lowers the risk of a stroke, and may help to prevent angina. In addition it contains anti-oxidants. And you thought it was all about having a good time! But seriously, the consumption of wine is not to be taken lightly and as a consumer ‘fore-warned is fore-armed’. The recommendation for the consumption of wine for males is two glasses per day and one for women. This is not to say that if you haven’t had a glass all week you now feel entitled to 7 - 10 glasses of wine in a night. The buzz words here are moderation and regularity.

88That wine has so many chemical compounds that it is considered more complex than blood serum?

A few tips for healthy drinking • To avoid excess intake of alcohol, have a glass of water inbetween glasses of wine • Try not to mix your alcohol • If you know that you are going to have a big night out it is advisable to snack an hour or so before starting your evening

• Your body metabolises a drink an hour, so for your own health and safety - take heed • Liver tonics are also a great aid and certainly worth investing in

So what does it all mean? Overall Health Benefits Anti-aging effects in red grape skins 1 (Harvard Medical School in Boston, 2004)

Lung Health Benefits Improved lung function from anti-oxidants in white wine 1 (American Thoracic Society, 2002)

Heart Health Benefits Coronary heart disease reduced 1 (University of California, Davis, 1995) Healthier blood vessels in the elderly 1 (University of Ferrara in Italy, 2004)

Ulcer Prevention Ulcer-causing bacteria reduced 1 (American Journal of Gastroenterology, 2003)

Cancer Prevention Cancer cells killed by protein in red grape skins 1 (University of Virginia Health System, 2004)

Stroke Prevention Arteries kept clean by polyphenols in red grape skins 1 (William Harvey Research Institute, 2002)

Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Health Benefits: Decreased ovarian cancer risk 1 (Queensland Institute of Medical Research in Australia, 2004)

Stronger Bones (Twin Research and Genetic Epidemiology Unit, St. Thomasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Hospital in London 2004) 1

Lower Risk of Stroke 1 (Centers for disease control and prevention, 2001)

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Health Benefits Lower risk of heart attack for men with high blood pressure 1 (Worcester Medical Center in Massachusetts, 2004)

88People who get headaches after drinking red wine

blame sulfates as the cause. Did you know that most white wines contain more sulfates than red wines? Sulfur is the 10th most abundant element in the universe.

1 The possible health benefits quoted herewith are done so using existing materials which are stated with reference to research performed as listed. Whilst every effort is made to ensure the facts have been researched accurately, we do not take any responsibility for incorrect or incomplete information. These ideas are put forward to suggest certain links between moderate consumption of wine and its health benefits.

ASK THE EXPERTS Doug Frost - “I think that a lot of the

lingo – ‘acidity’, ‘tannin’, ‘oakiness’ , ‘dryness’ – really has no meaning. It doesn’t mean the same thing to everyone, and therefore it becomes confusing and ultimately useless to newcomers. I would ask Master of Wine students to judge the levels of acidity and tannins of a number of wines while blind-folded – so they can’t see how everyone else is voting – and even these top students end up not agreeing. Instead of saying ‘high acidity’, maybe we should say it has a ‘ lemon / lime’ or ‘apple’ character to it. Not everyone knows what ‘acid’ is supposed to taste like, but everyone knows what a green apple tastes like”.

111

Talk the talk

a glossary of wine terms Here is an index of key wine phrases, to make you, the budding wine connoisseur, that much wiser.

A Acid (ity)

- It’s the sharp or crisp taste in the wine. Wine consists of four acids; Malic, Tartaric, Citric & Lactic

Aroma

- The smells in your glass of a young wine

Astringent

- It’s the mouth-puckering feeling you get from drinking a red wine with high tannins

Austere

- A description for a wine with a shy nose, restrained palate

B Backbone

- Tannins & acidity give a wine good ‘backbone’, meaning the wine is in good proportion

Balanced

- Acid, Alcohol, Fruit and Tannins are all equal

Balthazar

- 12 litre bottle of champagne

Barrel fermented

- Wine fermented in an oak barrel

Big

- Full-bodied wine sometimes referred to as weighty (high alcohol or fruit present)

Body

- The weight or feeling on the mouth

Botrytis

- Vine disease caused by fungus also know as noble rot

Bottle shock - Caused immediately after bottling, temporarily leads to “disjointed fruit flavours”

Bottle stink - Off-putting nose, sometimes evident on opening, noticeable in older wines Bouquet

- The smells in your glass of a mature wine (note the difference between aroma)

Buttery

- Common word used with wooded chardonnays, rich & creamy aroma

C Character

- Used as a comparison between grape varieties

Chewy

- Used to describe a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;bigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; somewhat rich wine, it almost feels like you want to start chewing the wine

Claret

- Bordeaux-like wine

Closed

- A wine that gives you very little aroma or taste

Complex (ity) - Sometimes referred to as a multidimensional wine with many layers of smells and tastes Concentrated - A depth in fruit and richness, often used with great wines Cooper - A person who makes wooded barrels Corked

- Faulty wine, check for mould on the cork

Crisp

- Mostly found in young white wines and the acidity; another description would be sharp

Decant

- Transfer wine to a glass container (also to remove sediment)

Dense

- Reference to a flavour-packed wine

E Elegant

- A well-balanced wine, stylish & refined

Enologist

- One who studies wines (also spelt ‘oenologist’)

En primeur

- The buying of sought-after wines before they have been bottled

F Fat

- Full wine

Finish

- After swallowing, your final impression of the wine

Firm

- The texture or structure of the wine

Flabby/Flat - Used as a derogatory term, lacking acid/structure Flight

- Used in wine tasting to describe the order/system of wines to be tasted

Forward

- Not shy or closed

Full-bodied

- Used to describe a wine with rich texture (opposite of flabby)

G Green

- Used to describe an unripe wine, also ‘youthful’

Grip(py)

- The wine is firm, you can feel it on your palate

H Heady

- A wine that has high alcohol

Heavy

- Full-bodied or perhaps over-extracted

Herbacaous - Herbal/grassy/flowery (noticed mainly in the nose) Hot

- High in alcohol

J Jammy

- Good ripeness, flavourful

Jéroboam

- 3 litres of champagne

L Lean

- Lacking in fruit (not always a negative)

Lees

- Sediment of the grapes’ stems, pulp & seeds. Their purpose is to add flavour to the wine

Legs

- After swirling the wine in your glass, the elongated drips that remain

Length

- Finish of the wine, the taste that lingers after swallowing

Lively

- Fresh, good acidity

M Magnum

- 15 litres of champagne

Malolactic fermentation - Secondary fermentation in winemaking. Its aim is to soften & stabilise the acids Mature

- Ready to drink

Méthode champenoise - Method of making real champagne Mouth-filling - Wine that is BIG and rich Mousse

- Fine bubbles in sparkling wines (often the smaller the bubble the finer the quality)

Must

- Unfermented grape juice

N Nebuchadnezzar - 15 litre bottle of champagne Non-vintage - Wines/sparkling wines that don’t bear a vintage date Nose

- The aroma/bouquet (smell of the wine)

O Oaked

- Aged in oak barrels or oak chips

Oenology

- The science of winemaking

Off

- Spoilt or flawed wine

Oxidation

- Exposure to oxygen. Spoilt wine is said to be oxidised

P Palate

- The mouth area. For wines it’s the flavour, texture & feeling

Phylloxera

- Vine disease which destroys vines

Porty

- Overripe, heavy

Q Quaffable

- Easy to drink

R Rehoboam

- 45 litre bottle of champagne

Residual Sugar - The amount of sugar left over after fermentation during the winemaking stage Robust

- A ‘full-bodied’ wine

Round

- Well-balanced wine

S Salmanazar - 9 litre bottle of champagne Simple

- A one-dimensional wine, with little to no flavour

Sommelier

- French word for wine waiter (pronounced som-mel-ee-yay)

Structure

- Describes the make up of the wine. Does the wine have good aging potential?

T Tannin

- Used to preserve wine. Derived from the grape skins, seeds and stalks in the making of wine and

found mostly in red wines. Mellows with ageing Tears

- See “Legs”

Terroir

- The characteristics of a vineyard; soil, climate, sun

Tired

- Losing its freshness and kept too long

Toasting

- Heating the inside of a wine barrel in order to release oaky flavours into the wine

U Umami

- It is said to be ‘the 5th taste’. A Japanese word roughly translated means essence or savoury, it is associated with ‘perfect quality in a taste’. It pops up from time to time in wine circles

V Varietal

- A wine which is made of one wine variety only

Vintage

- The year the grapes where harvested & fermented to make wine

Vintner

- The owner of a winery

Viticulture

- The science of grape growing

Vertical tasting - Tasting the same wine across several different vintages

W Winemaker

- The person who makes wine

Z Zesty

- Lively. Crisp

And when all is said and done, take my father’s advice; ‘Enjoy what’s in the glass’ – I always said he drank too much; his reply to me? ‘That I simply don’t drink enough’.

Happy drinking and remember... “Life’s too short to drink poor wine”

YOUR WINE NOTES Wine ______________________________________ Vintage ____________________________________ Variety ____________________________________ Purchased Price ____________________________ Classify the wine Good Gift Special Occasion Good for a restaurant Easy drinking at home

Notes

YOUR WINE NOTES Wine _______________________________________ Vintage _____________________________________ Variety _____________________________________ Purchased Price _____________________________ Classify the wine Good Gift Special Occasion Good for a restaurant Easy drinking at home

Notes

GENERAL NOTES

If you’re still wondering how wine is made – it’s simple:

SUGAR + YEAST = ALCOHOL (add carbon dioxide and some heat)

I would like to thank all the wine experts in the book for taking the time; Phil Southwell for designing and Su Southwell for proofing the book and Joe Kelly & Stephen Wynne Jones for their input.

Santé.

Picture credits Jon Frosdick WOSA - Wines of South Africa iStockphotos Kyle May