Global Fashion_DAAP 2022 by Arti Sandhu

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DAAP FASHION 2022

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Vogue Africa Abena Acheampong ............................................................................................................................ 01

Mental Health is Not Fashion

Maddie Blair ................................................................................................................................................. 03

The Evolution of Black Women’s Hair Styles

Carley Chastain and Kat Suddendorf ....................................................................................... 05

Life Story of a Garment

Wen Chen ..................................................................................................................................................... 09

Demna Gvasalia vs Fashion

Josh Frueh ..................................................................................................................................................... 11

Fabricated

Jasmine Gierman .................................................................................................................................... 13

Hip Hop, Disco, and Glam Rock in Fashion

Zoe Haberstich, Jensen Johnson, Kiley Kuhr ......................................................................... 15

A Virtual World's Impact on Shopping Local

Nikki Handorf .............................................................................................................................................. 21

Yellow: A Social History

Deidre Kegley .............................................................................................................................................. 23

My Jock & My Judy

Ryan Kofsky ................................................................................................................................................. 25

Bacterium Brought to Light

Thee Laspina ............................................................................................................................................. 27

For Many One

Anna Laine ................................................................................................................................................... 29

8 THINGS ABOUT VOGUE

LOVE

IT'S TIME. In 2016, Vogue introduced its newest edition, Vogue Arabia, which consisted of 12 Arab countries. This was partly influenced by the increased interest and popularity of Dubai, and the Middle East as a whole. Since then, vogue has added Singapore and the Netherlands to its roster, but still no Africa. The continent has become a top grossing global market, and it has been responsible for producing some top players in the industry such as British Vogue Editor-in-Chief Edward Enninful and Louis Vuitton Menswear Designer Virgil Abloh. THE PERFECT COSTUMER. One of the key findings of the 2021 AfrAsia Bank Africa Wealth Report noted that, as of December 2020, total private wealth in Africa was valued at $2.0 trillion, with an expected 30% growth by 2030 (1). Furthermore, this increase of the upper class has prompted many luxury brands such as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Prada to open stores across the continent.

EXPOSURE. Vogue is one of the most prestigious fashion magazines on the planet, so having an African edition would give African designers, brands, stylists, and models the chance to showcase their talent on a global level. Having this heightened level of awareness can mean that more fashion weeks will begin to populate amongst the 4 regions, making the continent a fashion playground.

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PAN-AFRICANISM. Though comprised of 54 countries, Vogue Africa would be the perfect way to showcase unity and diversity within the continent. Rather than having separate editions that correspond to the continents' northern, southern, eastern, and western countries, having one edition forces the reader to see the beauty Africa possses in each page.

AFRICA THAT WE WOULD

BY: Abena Acheampong

HATE

TOO DIVERSE? Africa is a continent, not a country. The continent is home to 54 countries and 1.3 billion people from an estimated 3,000 tribes, with over 2,000 languages spoken (2). This means that it’s impossible to showcase the vast diversity within each country, let alone the entire continent in one monthly publication.

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COLONIALISM.. Many believe that having an African version of Vogue feeds into the need that anything western is seen as “better” and more favorable. This idea of western validation is rooted in colonialism, something that has forever changed the DNA of Africa. Besides, African designers are doing their own thing and disrupting the narrative by replacing colonization with decolonization.

INFRASTRUCTURE. In order to run a successful magazine, it’s imperative to have a strong branding, public relations, and publishing support system. However, this seems to be lacking within Africa, as the only country with a sturdy enough industry to hand Vogue Africa is South Africa, who already has its own slew of fashion magazines.

CONDE NAST. The parent company of Vogue has always been known to be extremely elitist, so it was no surprise when many BIPOC employees called the publication out for its racist work environment. Having a company like this run Vogue Africa is NOT a good look, and many believe the discussed magazine will essentially be Conde Nast’s idea of Africa and not Africans' idea of Africa.

1: The AfrAsia Bank Africa Wealth Report 2021. Africa Wealth Report 2021 - AfrAsia Bank Mauritius. (n.d.). 2: Tlhagoane, L. (2021, November 19). Op-ed: It's time for Vogue Africa. The Business of Fashion.

mental health is NOT fashion

DONT’S DONT’S DONT’S DONT’S DONT’S DONT’S

BY: MADISON BLAIR

Burberry 2019 Fall Collection

Gucci included straightjackets and outﬁts insinuating mental health patients in their S/S 2020 collection. Model’s don’t like the idea of the brand capitalizing on a method of “treatment”, which was historically used on patients with severe mental health issues. Gucci explains the collections purpose was to convey “ fashion as a way to allow people to walk through ﬁelds of possibilities , cultivate beauty, and celebrate self expression” (2).

Urban Outﬁtters controversial garments

Burberry showcased a hoodie, with a noose as the strings, at London Fashion Week. Liz Kennedy, on of the show’s models, took to Instagram to communicate her concerns saying “suicide is not fashion” (1). Burberry CEO, Marco Gibbetti, apologized for the distress of the product and removed the item from the collection.

Gucci S/S 2019 Collection

Urbarn Outﬁtters has been known for their controversial choice of graphics on their clothing. These are examples of a few; “eat less”, “depression”, and the infamous Kent State sweatshirt with “blood-like” stains. Urban’s outrageously insensitive clothing is another example of the poor use of mental health in the fashion industry.

(1) https://www.cnn.com/style/article/burberry-noose-hoodie-scli-gbr-intl/index.html (2) https://www.cbsnews.com/news/gucci-straitjacket-model-protests-guccis-offensive-use-of-garment-while-walking-in-brands-runway-show/

DO’S DO’S DO’S DO’S DO’S DO’S DO’S

Madhappy created this collection of crewnecks and vintage tees. The brand also collaborates with The Local Optimist, an online platform that aims to break down the stigma of mental health.

Madhappy Mental Health Awareness Month collection

The Mayfair Group teamed up with The Mental Health Coalition and Active Minds to donate a minimum of $10,000 from their campaign proceeds. They also donated a $1 for each of #answersmayvary hashtag to both foundations.

Answers May Vary collection

The Happiness Project aims o spread awareness for mental health research. 15% of proﬁts are donated to The American Foundation for Suicide Prevention.

Happiness Project hoodie

These brands have made a positive impact on the presence of mental health in the fashion industry. Instead of drawing DIRECT inspiration from damaging objects related to mental health, these brands use their platforms and proﬁts to improve research and donate to organizations dedicated to helping people with mental health issues.

https://www.vogue.com/article/brands-supporting-mental-health-awareness

Photo: Glamour

The Self-Expression in Black Women’s Hair Popular Styles: Styles

Photo: Latest Hairstyles

Photo: Melan Magazine

“Three-strand twists that can be fashioned into different lengths, thicknesses, and colors.” (AllThingsHair) “The afro hairstyle is one of the top traditional Black hairstyles we see today. Many women love to wear their hair in this style during their transitioning phase or as a way to just celebrate the beauty of their hair texture.” (AllThingsHair) “Three-strand twists braided flat to the scalp.” (AllThingsHair) “Bantu knots are small coiled buns, so you don’t have to worry about tangling your hair with this fun style. We love this bold style as it serves as a perfect protected look for ladies who want their hair completely up and out of the way.” (AllThingsHair) “This temporary version of dreadlocks is created by braiding the natural hair and wrapping the braid with kinky extension hair.” (StyleCaster)

Photo: All Things Hair

Photo: Black Beauty and Hair

LAETITIA KY

SPOTLIGHT ON EXPRESSION :

“Laetitia Ky tackles abortion, sexism and race with her extraordinary hair”(The Guardian). Laetitia embraces activism, justice, creativity, and her culture by expressing herself through her hair and personal look. She portrays not only self-expression through her hair, but also her opinions and political beliefs. In her book “Love And Justice”, Laetitia Ky shares her “deeply personal story” with “equal parts memoir, artwork, and feminist manifesto”. (Princeton Architechtural Press). “Ky links hair extensions directly to her own natural fro and then, using a mirror, proceeds to mould both into shapes.” as a form of self-portrtrayal and experiece. “Appreciating my hair let me appreciate other things that made me black,” she says. (The Guardian) Photo: Love and Justice Book Cover

“Like my skin. I’m very dark-skinned and the beautiful Ivorian woman is supposed to be light-skinned. When I started to love my hair, I started to love my skin, and I started to love the fact that I was black. And when I started to love the fact that I was black, it helped me to love the fact that I was a woman. Loving one thing led me to love another thing.”(The Guardian)

Photo: The Guardian

Photo: CNN

Citations: François, A. (2021, August 26). 60 best natural hairstyles for Black Women in 2021. All Things Hair United States. Retrieved April 14, 2022, from https:// www.allthingshair.com/en-us/hairstyles-haircuts/natural-hairstyles/womens-african-american-hairstyles/

Photo: The Guardian

Guardian News and Media. (2022, March 31). ‘some people are freaked out’: How Laetitia Ky tackles abortion, sexism and race with her extraordinary hair. The Guardian. Retrieved April 14, 2022, from https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2022/mar/31/some-people-are-freaked-out-how-laetitia-kytackles-abortion-sexism-and-race-with-her-extraordinary-hair Love and Justice. Princeton Architectural Press. (n.d.). Retrieved April 14, 2022, from https://papress.com/pages/love-and-justice#:~:text=Equal%20

The Evolution and Expression of Black Women’s Hairstyles By Kat Suddendorf and Carley Chastain

they were from, but also because it was practical for working long hours. The enslaved women were dehumanized for having African textured hair because the white women encouraged a law that was made forcing Black women to cover their hair since they did not have time to take care of it with their duties. These racist notions were carried throughout history. With the Civil Rights Movement of the 1960s and ‘70s, Black communities demanded change, and reclaimed their love of their non-european-textured hair which had been scorned so long, the rise of the natural hair movement. Wearing afros and other natural styles was its own form of activism as the Black people felt like they were reclaiming their cultural roots. From the rise of natural hair came an abundance of new styles shaping up or fading the sides of the hair which was popular in the Hip Hop culture, influencing style with creativity and expressionism. Creativity and expression are why so many Black women love to change their hair, but hair means something different to each individual person. Whether it is for a cultural or creative reason, it serves a different purpose for everyone who wears it which is why I took the time to speak with various Black women who love to style their hair in different looks to see what their hair means to them. Upon interviewing 6 Black women, the insight on their love-hate relationship with their hair became much clearer. When asked “how is your relationship with your hair?” the responses remained true to maintaining a sense of identity. Many of the women feel as though their hair is what makes them who they are, and the style that it takes on is the woman they put forth to the

world that day. The “maitenance of maintaining intricate styles is the hardest part” according to Sarah Snyder, but the outcome is always “worth it.” Among these women, the common favorite hairstyle is braids due to it being a “protective hairstyle, easier upkeep, less time consuming in the morning, and breathable for warmer weather,” however Nicole Scott mentioned how she considered wearing her box braids for a business headshot, but “changed [her] mind...because it could seem ‘unprofessional.’” Although these notions still come up today, the women also have found a personal sense of empowerment in their hair. Trenity West states that when she “wears [her] hair natural in the Black community, there is a sense of pride” and when there is another woman with her natural hair, they are united as one as “beautiful and strong queens.” The type of connection that these woman have within their hair is admirable and extends to a much deeper sense of identity rooted in culture. The overall knowledge these women have to the history of the styles varies within their personal culture, but the overarching fact is that their hair showcases who they are, where they come from, and the importance of honoring their history. Textual Sources: History.com, Ibiene Magazine, InStyle Magzine, Kent State University Direct Sources: Sarah Snyder, Trenity West, Nicole Scott, Prima Kai-Mattson, Saige Smith, Abena Acheampong

Artworks from exhibit: TEXTURES: History and Art of Black Hair

Masa Zadros Femme Totem Blue, 2018

Devan Shimoyama Elijah, 2020

Tawny Chatmon, Heir/Present of God, 2017

**Cotton accounts for about 33% of all fibers found in textile**

Another year, Autumn is here... Cotton is prepared for this moment. Her dream is to become a part of the denim family and create a long lasting garment to serve the world.

Life Story of

Wen

Hi, my name is Cotton, my dream finally came true. I became a denim vest! I’m currently waiting to be shipped to my next destination. I heard from other garments that we are the fourth collection this month already

I arrived at a retail store after a long long trip. This is where I’m going to be staying until someone take me home... or when I’m out of style.

I’m super excited! My new owner brought me home, she seem to really like me. However, after a year of use, I don’t seem to be as new as I used to be. I grew old and feel sick. My stitches are loose and have holes in me.

Sources: https://greenbusinessbureau.com/industries/fashion/sustainable-fashion-identifying-fast-fashion-flaws-and-extending-the-life-cycle-of-clothing/ https://www.wri.org/insights/apparel-industrys-environmental-impact-6-graphics#:~:text=Cotton%20is%20the%20most%20common,to%20make%20one%20cotton%20shirt.

**We can extend the garment life by replacing the linear life cycle with cicular system. Where garments are reused or recycled before considered waste**

A Garment

Chen

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I’ve been repatched and reused over the years, she eventually passed me on to her daughter.

When I woke up, I was in a new place. Someone else took me home. She wasn’t afraid of my wounds and patched me up. I look and feel like a new vest.

I guess I’ve served my time...

**Average garments usually follows a linear life cycle, where products are created to fulfill one use before they are considered waste**

When I woke up, I was in a new place. I don’t like the smell here

Disco Pop What is Disco Pop? in Fashion Disco is a genre of music that gained popularity in the 1970s due to the urban nightlife scene. It combines the elements of funk, soul, and pop to create music with catchy, rhytmic melodies that inspire a more free-form type of dancing. Pop music is very similar, also containing rhythmic beats and melodies and upbeat vocals to create a genre of music that is meant to be danced to. In modern day, these genres come together to create Disco Pop, a high energy, electronically produced, hypnotic dance music genre.

Atelier Versace at Courture Fall 2015.

Zoe Haberstich

Naomi Campbell and Christy Turlington at Studio 54 in NYC in 1990.

(From left to right) Christine Baranski, Meryl Streep, Julie Walters in Mamma Mia! (2008)

Photographed in 2022 by Kate Bones for Missguided’s campaign fronted by Baddie Winkle.

Farrah Fawcett and Cher photograph courtesy of Yongestreet Productions.

Kimutai too, K. (2017, April 25). What was disco dance music, and where did it begin? WorldAtlas. Retrieved April 15, 2022, from https://www.worldatlas.com/articles/what-was-disco-dance-music-and-where-did-it-begin.html Knott, R. (2019, January 25). 1970s disco fashion: ‘Saturday night fever’ and beyond. Groovy History. Retrieved April 15, 2022, from https://groovyhistory.com/1970s-disco-fashion MasterClass. (2021, April 26). All about disco: Inside the history and influence of disco music - 2022. MasterClass. Retrieved April 15, 2022, from https://www.masterclass.com/articles/disco-history-and-influence

Andrea Huther styled by Anna Sokolowska and photographed by Katelijne Verbruggen.

Sonny Bono and Cher, wearing a blue and gold sequined outfit, photographed in 1977 attending a dinner.

Disco Pop in the 70s

In the 1970s when Disco rose to its fame, the genre had a lot of influence over the fashion and styles of it’s listeners. Bellbottom jeans and shimmering lowcut tops were all the rage, and listeners were inspired to wear clothing that could be moved and danced in. Tube tops, boogie shoes, spandex, eccentric prints and patterns, and countless androgynous styles became the most popular thing to wear during this time. This genre of music dramatically influenced fashion for an entire generation, setting many iconic trends in motion towards becoming the timeless pieces they are today.

Artists Influenced by

Disco Pop

Lady Gaga has had a lot of clear influence from disco culture. With her massive impact on modern music and pop culture, she’s created her own category of music inspired by synth-pop, disco, and glam rock. We see this influence in her music and fashion, with her largerthan-life costumes and glamorous vintage style. She inspires many to express themselves in their own way and has been a major inspiration for fashion and music. Lady Gaga photographed by Matt Cardy in 2009 at Glastonbury Festival.

Dua Lipa wearing Versace. Styled by Lorenzo Posocco.

Dua Lipa

Dua Lipa wearing Versace at the 2020 American Music Awards. Photographed by Gareth Cattermole.

BTS

Kylie Minogue

Kylie Minogue for The Guardian Weekend in 2022. Photographed by Atelier Paulina Piipponen.

Kylie Minogue photographed by Jens Langkjaer for The Guardian in 2020.

Pop, A. M. (2022). Lady Gaga: Influences. Apple&nbsp;Music. Retrieved April 15, 2022, from https://music.apple.com/us/playlist/lady-gaga-influences/ pl.38a8d4baa4f34cc79689bad25df20c85

Lady Gaga “The Fame” poster photographed by Warwick Saint in 2008.

Dua Lipa is the perfect example of an artist being inspired by something and making it into their own brand. Her music, with its rhythmic beats and catchy melodies, is heavily inspired by the music of the 70s. Her alignment with the Disco Pop aesthetic has had endless influence in the fashion industry. Her music videos and even recent album covers feature many references to disco culture, and her inspiration from Disco Pop only seems to be getting stronger.

Kylie Minogue, most widely known for her hit song “Can’t Get You Out Of My Head”, came back into the spotlight in 2020 with a new album titled “Disco”. This album would be heavily inspired by Disco Pop, having many similar characteristics to that of a 70s disco song. The funky tunes, orchestra hits, and glittery feeling of the album was meant to transport the listener back in time to when disco was at its peak. Her style has reflected this as well, as she can always be seen wearing something sparkly and disco reminiscent.

Jungkook of BTS photographed in a sparkly embroidered blazer.

Lady Gaga

With their music becoming more and more widely known every day, BTS has quickly become one of the most popular boy bands in the world. Debuting in 2013 in South Korea, the group has quickly caught on to popular trends in the music and fashion industry and has begun incorporating more Disco Pop inspirations in their work. Their most recent song “Dynamite” was a huge hit, and their music has been widely recognized as having similar sounds and qualities of Disco Pop music. Their fashion is a major indication of this as well, with the band’s wardrobe consisting of many androgynous and flashy styles. Jungkook of BTS photographed in a sparkly embroidered blazer.

Mwnswear Show Milan’s Fall 2022

Jaden Sith (@jaden) Via Twitter 2017

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ATX, Afterglow. “The History of Hip Hop Fashion: How Street Culture Became Fashion’s Biggest Influence.” Afterglow, Afterglow, 26 Mar. 2019, www.afterglowatx.com/blog/2019/3/26/the-history-of-hip-hop-fashion-how-street-culture-became-fashions-biggest-influence. “How Hip-Hop Fashion Went from the Streets to High Fashion.” Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Times, 27 Jan. 2018, www.latimes.com/ entertainment/la-et-ms-ig-hip-hop-fashion-streets-couture-20180125-htmlstory.html.

Kanye West by Getty Images 2016 Kanye West by Getty Images 2016

Virgil Abloh X Nike collab published 2017 Virgil Abloh X Nike collab published 2017

Virgil Abloh Via NYTimes published 2019 Virgil Abloh Via NYTimes published 2019 “The Kanye Effect: Why Hip-Hop Fashion Is on the Rise.” Glossy, 29 May 2018, www.glossy.co/rise-of-streetwear/why-rapper-branded-fashion-is-on-the-rise/?amp=1. “The KanyeWest Effect: Hip-Hop FashiononIsFashion. on the Rise. ” Glossy, 29 May27 2018, “Kanye andWhy Hip-Hop’s Influence ” NYCTastemakers, Jan. www.glossy.co/rise-of-streetwear/why-rapper-branded-fashion-is-on-the-rise/?amp=1. 2022, nyctastemakers.com/kanye-west-and-hip-hops-influence-on-fashion/. “Kanye West andand Hip-Hop’s Influence on Abloh: Fashion. ” NYCTastemakers, 27 Jan. 2022, www.vogue.com/article/virgil-abloh-obituary-tribute/amp. nyctastemakers.com/kanye-west-and-hip-hops-influence-on-fashion/. Leitch, Luke, {{{Author}}}. “Virgil The Designer of Progress. ” Vogue, Leitch, Luke, andShaped {{{Author}}}. “Virgil Abloh: The Designer of Progress. ” Vogue, www.vogue.com/article/virgil-abloh-obituary-tribute/amp. “Virgil Abloh the Future of Rap Fashion. ” Okayplayer, www.okayplayer.com/culture/virgil-abloh-rap-fashion-style-off-white-louis-vuitton.html/amp. “Virgil Abloh Shaped the Future of Rap Fashion.” Okayplayer, www.okayplayer.com/culture/virgil-abloh-rap-fashion-style-off-white-louis-vuitton.html/amp.

Bacterium Brought to Light By: Thee D.P. LaSpina

Sources: Palm, Gottfried J., et al. “Structure of the Plastic-Degrading Ideonella Sakaiensis MHETase Bound to a Substrate.” Nature News, Nature Publishing Group, 12 Apr. 2019, https://www.nature. com/articles/s41467-019-09326-3.

PET degradation by Ideonella sakaiensis ΔpyrF and its mutant strains. Through three experiments, you see images of the degraded PET film surface on a synthetic fiber. Scale bars represent Weight loss of PET films after cultivation strains were cultured with PET film in SV-Ura-PET at 30°C for 10 days. The means are calculated from three independent experiments, the process of decomposing synthetic fibers.

PETase, a structurally well-characterized consensus α/β-hydrolase fold enzyme, which converts PET to mono-(2-hydroxyethyl) terephthalate (MHET). MHETase, the second key enzyme to breaking down synthetic fibers, hydrolyzes MHET to the PET educts terephthalate and ethylene glycol. It is reported to the crystal structures of active ligand-free MHETase and MHETase bound to a nonhydrolyzable MHET analog. MHETase, which is reminiscent of feruloyl esterases. This possesses a classic α/β-hydrolase domain and a lid domain conferring substrate specificity. In the light of structure-based mapping of the active site, activity assays, mutagenesis studies and a first structure-guided alteration of substrate specificity towards bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) terephthalate (BHET)

The Chemcial Compositions listed below are some that contribute most to landfill each year that causes catastrophic damage to our universe. 1. Nylon, 2. Polyester 3. Rayon, 4. Acrylic

Sources: Hostra, Camille. “5 Examples of Decomposers in the Environment.” Science Trends, 14 Mar. 2020, https://sciencetrends.com/5-examples-of-decomposers-in-the-environment/.

Bacillus Subtilis and Pseudomonas Fluorescens Have been de-composing in benefit of us, Now time for them to start break-ing down man made fibers!

Different bacteriums that can break down PET fibers styrofoam and synthetic fibers

1. Bacillus subtilis also referred to as grass bacillus or hay bacillus, is found in topsoil all over the world as well as in the gastrointestinal tract of vermon. The species is typically found within the upper layer of soil, that breaks down the unecessary matter such as . It has the ability to tolerate extreme environmental conditions, and humans use it for a wide variety of different food production systems. 2. Pseudomonas fluorescens is a type of bacteria found within bodies of wate. While the bacteria can break down dead organic substances, it can also break down synthetic fibers & compromise the immune systems of people, creating rare disease conditions. 3. Spores attach themselves to surfaces and once there, they draw nutrients from the organic material found there. Spores are joined together by a network of branches referred to as hyphae, and networks of hyphae are called mycelium. Mycelium can be made into leather alternative and other garments people can use in place of synthetic fibers. Large networks of mycelium can be found under dead leaves, straw, and grass, and they can run for miles underneath the soil. These networks of fungus break down dead organic matter and return the nutrients that composed them to the soil.

Fossil Fuel Fashion Has Begun to Take Over In todays current situation regarding fast fashion, it has become synonymous with overconsumption, a waste crisis, & widespread pollution and the exploitation of workers in global supply chains. What is less well known is that the insatiable fast fashion business model is enabled by cheap synthetic fibers, which are produced from fossil fuels. Most synthetic fibers are made out of oil and gas which do not break down overtime in landfill and end up in our oceans. Polyester, the most used fabric of the fast fashion industry, is found in over half of all textiles and production of garments and is projected to skyrocket in the near future. We are looking for new textile alternatives that provide a more sustainable tomorrow and would be able to break down more easily overtime rather than end up choking land and oceanic animals after discarded by the client.

FOR MAN Y ONE BY ANNA LAINE

Features microtrends; shoulder bags, pearls, buttoned cardigans, gold jewelry, and brown tones

MICROTREND: An item of clothing that rises in popularity for a short amount of time without having a true effect on what is considered fashionable. (i.e. House of Sunny garments featured bottom left and middle).

House of Sunny Daybreak Cardi

TREND CYCLE Typically defining generations with macrotrends, the trend cycle has accelerated to shifting micro-trends every month or so (featured above). The faster the fashion cycle moves, the more clothing waste is produced, leading into micro-trends (Sunil).

29 References:

Gan, T. (2021). Why are massive Shein hauls so popular on TikTok? Green is the New Black. https://greenisthenewblack.com/shein-ultra-fast-fashion-consumerism-tiktokinfluencer/#:~:text=It's%20also%20about%20exploiting%20influencer,hundreds%20of%20thousands%20of%20followers.

CELEBRITY TREND Certain garments trend for the sake of who wore it, such as the cardigan featured to the right. Harry Styles wore a similar cardigan and prompted thousands to make or buy their own.

@brunaticality on YouTube

Vivienne Westwood Bas Relief Choker

Shown on Etsy by WarmyDesigns

@kendalljenner on Instagram

HAULS:

TikTok exacerbates the issue of overconsumption by promoting the everchanging trend cycle with "hauls" of cheap, illmade clothing from sites like Shein. Racking up likes on haul videos encourages content creators to make more of the sam video, beginning a constant cycle of shopping (Gan).

House of Sunny Hockney Dress

WASTE CONTRIBUTION Due to the escalation of the trend cycle, the fashion industry now sits just below the oil industry in pollution rate, as well as emmitting 10% of global carbon emmisiions (Parish).

@ellaunderwood on TikTok

@daelynsummert on TikTok

30 Parish, I. (2021). The dark truth behind fast fashion and microtrends. The Argus, Illinois Wesleyan University. https://iwuargus.com/4489/features/the-dark-truth-behind-fast-fashion-and-microtrends/.

Sunil, S. (2022). Microtrends: the Most Wasteful Trend. The Gator's Eye, Green Level High School https://thegatorseye.com/9253/news/microtrends-the-most-wasteful-trend/.

OUR GORPCORE LOOKBOOK GORPCORE- UTILITARIAN CLOTHES FOR ANY OUTFIT By SARAH MALAS

STAY COOL Stay cool by plck,lng 1 up a Diet Coke o: n your walk In the p,ark whlle wearing this high tech Jacket flt for Everest. Pair with pola'rlzed arctic goggl.es for an extreme look.

$1,025 WORK FROM HOME Take your home with you wherever you go. This tent is perfect for making any moment an outdoorsy photo op. Pair with these puffy moonboot slippers, and prepare for a comfortable day looking like you're outside.

STREET SUIT Have a futuristic and mysterious look while running errands in your local city. This down puffer suit fit for an Antarctic vacation is perfect for running to the bank or posing for instagram.

THE TREND THAT’S MAKING A COMEBACK.

BY COLIN MCGRAIL

Fashion trends from past decades always seem to find their way back into current modern fashion trends, With this cycle being focused on popular styles that were popularized during the early 2000s era often known as Y2K. The early 2000s often gets criticized as one of the worst decades for fashion, yet we still see some popular styles make their way back into 2022. Y2K features very experimental looks that include things like wide-legged jeans, baby shirts, Bandanas, and colorful skirts and bags. Although not every style trend from the early 2000s has made a comeback (which believe me is a good thing), you can still see people rocking popular clothing pieces but with a modern twist. During the current time in 2022, you can see people wearing things like Von Dutch trucker hats, a popular brand from the 2000s, cropped baby tee shirts, baggy Levi jeans, black Doc Martens, and tiny clutch purses. In fashion, we typically take styles that were popular a couple of decades ago and rehash them for present-day wear. This is typically referred to as fashion trend cycles, where popular fashion trends seem to cycle around every 20 years. Trends after peaking in popularity seem to take a dive to then be heavily criticized, just to become popular again. As we start to see popular trends from past eras come back around, we are also starting to see this cycle get smaller and smaller compared to past fashion trend cycles. This shorter trend cycle is heavily influenced and caused by social media. Before social media, we only saw new collections every season, but now with social media, we are exposed to new clothes and collections almost on a daily basis. This has caused fashion trends to cycle on a shorter time span as people now have access to such a wide library of inspiration from past decades at their fingertips.

Sources: Thetrendspotter, Independent, Vogue

Accessories like fun sunglasses and small purses are another trend you’ll see with the Y2K aesthetic. Dyed hair and ponytails are other popular trends with Y2K.

C Some of the looks that you would see of Y2K aesthetic in 2022 consist of garments like baby tees, fishnet tights, and skirts.

How To Spot A Fake By Samantha Rohr

In the wake of misinformation and “fake news”, consumers still turn a blind eye when purchasing products online. Clothing, accessories, and jewelry are some of the most counterfeited items in the world, estimated to be a 1.7-4.5 trillion-dollar per year, underground global economy.1

SO WHAT? Counterfeiters aren’t running a business to increase competition and drive prices down, they’re running a fraudulent scam to get your money at any cost. Not only do fake products damage the name and value of big and small business alike, they’ve caused harm and even death. Environmental destruction, hazardous materials and dyes, child and forced labor, and the funding of crime and terrorism2, have all been traced back to counterfeiting.3

RED FLAGS

because luxury goods don’t just grow on trees Deals Too Good to Be True

Source: Becca Risa Luna, fake Hermes Birkin handbags from a peddler in Indonesia

Scammers can afford to give you the “best deals” because they make carbon copy products using lesser quality and unregulated materials, utilizing child and forced labor.4 Although we all want to get the best price on products we want and need, as consumers we need to recognize that products cost money to be made and shipped, especially if that product is made following the few legal laws that regulate the fashion industry. There is no shame in not being able to afford high-end designer goods, but when you support the counterfeiting industry you are supporting the very worst of what the fashion industry has to offer. A “lookfor-less” or knock-off that’s inspired by the desired style is more ethical and budget friendly to purchase from a legitimate brand or retailer. Just don’t be one to pay full retail price for something that’s actually a fake, because scammers don’t give out refunds.

Questionable Quality

Shady Retailers

Many counterfeiters can fool you online with photography and packaging, but often the product you receive is not the product you thought you ordered. The most obvious way to determine the authenticity of your product is by examining the materials, color, stitch quality, and branding on the piece to determine if the item is genuine. Most historic designer brands are continually adapting to protect their goods, and tag each item with a serial number to help verify the product as authentic. But so are the most driven counterfeiters, who are able to produce “super fake” copies that can fool even the most experienced expert.5 Any quality that gives you the slightest pause may be a sign of a fake.

Dupe Influencers

Most people don’t know that e-commerce websites like Amazon, Walmart, Facebook, DHgate, Alibaba, and AliExpress are third-party marketplaces. Meaning if anyone can cook in Ratatouille, anyone can sell on the internet, even a rat, and even if the rat is selling fake Louis Vuitton handbags. Nike, Birkenstock, and many other brands severed their selling relationship with Amazon because counterfeits proliferated the site causing confusion.6 To improve and protect the website the Amazon built an AI and established the Counterfeit Crimes Unit to remove “bad actor” seller profiles and handle counterfeit claims. In 2020, the e-commerce giant reported that only 6% of new seller accounts passed their fortified verification process and fewer than 0.01% of products get counterfeit complaints from customers.7 Else where on the internet, “pirates” still operate freely.

Although Amazon is working to provide a safer marketplace, motivated scammers can still find their way in. There’s a fast-growing pool of influencers who promote “designer dupes” on TikTok and Instagram. Using the same tactics as other social media influencers, reviews, unboxing videos, hauls, sponsorships, giveaways, and tutorials, with hidden links that directly lead buyers to these fakes. In 2020, Amazon unleashed a lawsuit over influencers’ “Order This/Get This” ads on social media.8 These influencers knowingly promoted seller pages that sold counterfeit goods, circumventing Amazon’s now rigorous authentication process.

Source: Amazon v. Fitzpatrick Complaint, pg 3. Screenshots of defendant’s promotions of counterfeits.

Resources: 1. U.S. Patent and Trademark Office and U.S. Department of Commerce. (2020). U.S. Intellectual Property and Counterfeit Goods— Landscape Review of Existing/Emerging Research (p. 1). Washington, D.C.: Library of Congress. 2. Gray, A. (Nov. 2017). How fake handbags fund terrorism and organized crime [Video]. TED Conferences. https://www.ted.com/talks/ alastair_gray_how_fake_handbags_fund_terrorism_and_organized_crime/transcript 3. American Apparel & Footwear Association. (May 2021). Dupe Influencers: The Concerning Trend of Promoting Counterfeit Apparel, Footwear, and Accessories on Social Media (p. 7). https://www.aafaglobal.org/AAFA/Solutions_Pages/Dupe_Influencers_The_Concerning_Trend_ of_Promoting_Counterfeits.aspx 4. Bureau of International Labor Affairs. ( June 2021). List of Goods Produced by Child Labor or Forced Labor. US Department of Labor. 5. Luna, B. (April 2018). The Truth About Counterfeit Luxury Handbags. Medium. https://beccarisaluna.medium.com/the-truth-aboutcounterfeit-luxury-handbags-9bfc8cd364f2 6. Arcieri, K. (Jan. 2020). Nike’s breakup with Amazon may lead other brands to call it quits: analysts. S&P Global Market Intelligence. https:// www.spglobal.co/marketintelligence/en/news-insights/latest-news-headlines/nike-s-breakup-with-amazon-may-lead-other-brands-tocall-it-quits-analysts-56193375 7. Segran, E. (May 2021). The volume of the problem is astonishing: Amazon’s battle against fakes may be too little, too late. Fast Company. https:// www.fastcompany.com/90636859/the-volume-of-the-problem-is-astonishing-amazons-battle-against-fakes-may-be-too-little-too-late 8. Amazon v. Fitzpatrick. (Nov. 2020). Complaint for Damages and Equitable Relief. Court Listener.

Opinion

Questioning Futurism: Just How Distant is the Digital Universe from the Real One? By Simon Schaffner It’s a frozen Monday morning in February and I’m checking emails in my car before class. One, in particular, catches my attention, “Fashion, Design and Blockchain Technology: How NFTs are Changing the Design Landscape.” I bang on my steering wheel in frustration. Educational institutions are now giving validation to this great big scam. Will people just fall for anything? NFTs (non-fungible tokens) are threatening to create a massive financial bubble similar to the one that caused the economy to collapse in 2008. Just like when speculators were buying up the supply of real estate, crypto investors create synthetic demand when they buy cartoon characters for tens of thousands of dollars. Synthetic demand is when asset prices far exceed their value. I couldn’t think of a better way to describe an NFT as a system where “prices far exceed their value.” NFTs are only the most obvious example of the issues with digitization. Another cutting-edge scam is ‘the metaverse,’ little more than a fresh profit stream for big tech corporations. As of March 22, 2022, there has officially been a metaverse fashion week (which is obviously the exact kind of innovation the fashion industry needs). Also, The Fabricant, a “digital fashion house,” has just raised 14 million dollars thanks to investors such as Ashton Kutcher. There is all this hype and talk around the metaverse but if you ask anybody what it is and they’ll struggle to find words. That’s because the metaverse doesn’t exist. It is an abstract monetization of absolutely nothing novel, just a regurgitation of decade old tech masquerading as a fascinating new development. But how can an idea with such little merit gain so much traction? Who actually cares about the metaverse? Most importantly, who has a vested interest in its’ success? Corporate America’s fetishization of a high-tech, digitized future is driven by its necessity to monetize anything and everything that it can. Integration with tech might be beneficial in moderation but there is a threshold where new ideas no longer benefit anyone except those who profit from them. Once this threshold is passed, digitization only affects people by distancing them from what is real and tangible. In the fashion world, this impulse to excessively integrate everything with technology undercuts the value of craft and reinforces the mindset that has already created a culture of disposability.

https://www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/fall-2021-content-a/2021/11/14/you-should-be-filling-your-wardrobe-with-digital-fashion-heres-why https://www.vice.com/en/article/akvzqz/virtual-digital-clothes-fashion-game-skins-metaverse https://missionmag.org/is-digital-clothing-the-future-of-fashion/ https://www.npr.org/2022/02/16/1080671357/loo

The digitization of the fashion industry, and the skills required to participate in it has already happened prolifically. By doing this, the means of design have been moved further away from working class people and towards the well-off who can afford a computers and computer programs every year. The hype of digitization obscures the reality that , fashion production has been mostly impossible to automate or digitize. Craft techniques is an area where the priceless culture, history and heritage of global artisans add so much measureable value. If the production of fashion were to be automated by reducing garments to three dimensional digital renderings, the beautiful space that now exists for global artisans to share their craft no longer exists. It would be very sad for that to happen. If clothes are to maintain their nature of being what they are, a means to define identity, they cannot be anything except physical items. Clothes are put on your body and your skin and it can always be felt while being worn. They protect you; they change you. Through fashion you become. The beauty of this lies in its materiality; the act of actually wearing something and moving through life under its’ weight brings us to be deeply in touch with its’ tangibility. This is crucial to the development of intimacy between the garment and its wearer. This intimacy is where fashion draws the power we feel after getting a new outfit or developing a new style. This is what makes you feel so differently in clothes that are not yours or when you put ourselves outside of our fashion comfort zone. Digital fashion might be a fun and interesting idea, but it will never be able to replace the power of a relationship with clothes. This relationship with clothes is already being lost due to the disposable nature that comes hand in hand with the success of the fast fashion business model. When we buy tons of clothes, we connect with none of them. If we don’t connect with our clothes, we have no issue throwing them away. People will never be able to connect meaningfully with clothes that they can’t touch. Digital fashion might be a band-aid solution to the industry’s issues with waste, but it doesn’t answer the harder questions about a consumerist culture. The fashion industry has deep issues with racism, over-production, sweatshop slavery, and increedibly unsustainable business practices. Instead of taking the opportunity to address these real problems, the industry wants to run to a made-up “universe,” for easy answers that will not be found. https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2021/04/10430494/digital-fashion-environment-meaning https://www.forbes.com/sites/brookerobertsislam/2020/08/21/how-digital-fashion-could-replace-fast-fashion-and-the-startup-paving-the-way/?sh=47f4097f70d8 https://www.voguebusiness.com/technology/its-not-just-gamers-and-crypto-dudes-buying-digitalhttps://gritdaily.com/digital-fashion-is-on-the-rise-as-the-fabricant-raises-14-million/ king-good-in-the-metaverse-fashion-brands-bet-on-digital-clothing

The Story of a Small Fashion Business Owner By: Nicole Scott

Ever since I was a little girl, I’ve always dreamed of becoming a successful fashion designer, but I never really thought I would be running my own business at the age of Twenty-One. All while still in college, working a part-time job, and having a social life. It wasn’t until the end of 2020 when I truly wanted to start a business. After I received an award from Gucci Changemakers which is a scholarship and Image 1; Model Jordan Shipp wearing organic cotton knit mentorship program, followed by a virtual summer internship; for drawstring backpack. Featuring CEO Nicole Scott minority students interested in the creative field. Before receiving the scholarship, I had little faith in myself and felt like my success of becoming a designer would never come. The experience was so validating and genuinely motivated me to keep chasing my dreams. In November of 2020 I had reached out to a mentor of mine that has been supporting my career even before I had one. He’s the owner of a non-profit based in Louisville, Kentucky that offers music lessons and after-school programs to inner-city youth. I presented a rough business idea, then he proceeded to tell me he was starting a business Incubator in January for minority entrepreneurs in Louisville. Then I was accepted into the inaugural cohort of the AMPED Russell Tech Business Incubator (RTBI), which provided mentorship, business education, funding, and resources to launch my start-up. I launched my website in August of 2021. Nicole Scott Inc. is a contemporary clothing company focused on handmade and ethically conscious clothing and accessories. Nicole Scott Inc. was founded in 2021 by myself, Nicole Alexis Scott. When it came to creating the structure of my business, I felt the world really needed a brand that was an example of what the world needs and what the fashion industry should aim to become. Focused on ethical production, transparency, sustainability, unconventionality, and inclusion.

All products are handmade by me right here in Cincinnati or my hometown Louisville. Before I drop a product, I produce a very small batch of inventory anywhere from 4-8 units per product. Some pieces are made-to-order or exclusive one-of-a-kind items. I usually give myself a minimum of 4-8 weeks for production on a certain style and custom orders can take around 3-6 weeks. Many of my struggles have been production/inventory related. Making the time to produce pieces as a one-woman show is hard. Luckily everything is small batch but trying to find time around my school/work schedule is the biggest challenge. I am currently in the process of sourcing production through Sew Valley, which is a local small-batch manufacturing company right here in Cincinnati. That alone has been such an extensive process. I reached out to them in February of last year (2021), we’ve been in communication ever since and am just now beginning my project with them in attempt to release my new collection. To date I finally have patterns, tech packs, and the first round of samples for the collection. We have yet to begin production and I have already invested over $4,000 in Nicole Scott Inc. Aside from my production costs, other expenses like shipping, packaging, labels, materials, graphic designs, website design, and Image 2; Model Grace Nobers wearing the Love Sweater, made of scrap fabric. photographers have hindered by business to actually become profitable.

Most businesses don’t see profit until a few years after startup which is one of the things I’ve had to learn in my experience of entrepreneurship. Thankfully the Incubator relieved most of my financial issues, and I have not had to use any money from my own pocket. Which is a blessing in itself! In October of 2021 I received an additional $5,000 grant from Render Capitol just for simply being a member in the Incubator (RTBI). A lot of my business-related challenges have come from the legal side like filing my LLC, domain, and understanding business taxes. Business legals and entrepreneurship are completely new avenues to me because we don’t learn about those subjects in DAAP. I’ve had to learn through online Coursera courses, entrepreneurship books, a course I’m taking at The Linder College of Business, RTBI, and just personal experience. I share my challenges to be transparent, not to scare anyone away from launching a business. I think starting a brand can be the most fulfilling thing for anyone who has a passion for what they love. The biggest tip I would recommend is research. The world of business a big industry and there is so much to learn! Other than starting your own business, it’s equally important to shop with local businesses because unlike supporting big brands, when you shop with a small company you are supporting your community and you’re supporting a dream. One order to a small business owner will mean everything to them versus a large company getting their one-thousandth order for the day. Being a small business has allowed me to be transparent with my customers on where and how the pieces are made. Which has always been important to me and one of the things that sets my brand apart from other online retailers. I have never imagined I would be where I am today with my business, especially even before graduating college. You’re never too young or too old to follow your dreams. In the world of social media, it’s so easy to go on to Instagram or Image 3; Model Jordan Burns wearing the Kindness Shirt, made of scrap fabric. Tiktok and see someone’s success or glamorous life and think that that is unachievable or too far in reach (I know I do). But I knew when I was Seven years old that I would be a designer and I’ve been working towards that goal ever since and have yet to give up. Trust me, I think about giving up all the time. There are days when I feel like my business is failing or will fail. I’ve gone consecutive months without a single order. Wondering where I went wrong or if I’m just wasting time and money. I’ve had to regroup and realize why I love fashion in the first place and why this career is my passion. It takes a lot of motivation, discipline, and strength. It can be so vulnerable to put yourself out there and as a business owner I never feel like I receive enough credit for all the roles I play. I think the biggest thing that keeps me going is my love for design, my desire to be an inspiration for others and to leave a legacy for young creatives that look like me to go after what they want. Don’t underestimate starting a business because it is hard work but if you’re passionate and love what you do then it is more than worth it. @nicolescott_inc @nicolescottinc Nicole Scott Inc. Sources: Photography – Rhonda Mefford www.nicolescottinc.com

Image 4; Model Ethan Murphy wearing the Unity jacket, made of scrap fabric.

SPORTS & FASHION

FITS IN FITNESS

Lauren Sewell

From competing in some of the largest sports events in the world to influencing trends across the athleisure industry, a handful of athletes constantly bring their A-game. While some athletes are restricted to a team uniform, others are lucky enough to design their own uniforms. At the 1988 Olympics, Florence GriffithJoyner (Flo-Jo) showed off her custom looks while setting world records. Flo-Jo was invested in her athletic wear from the beginning of her track career. In high school, she encouraged her fellow teammates to dress well. She believed that good outfits would make her feel good and perform better. As her career progressed, she continued to help design her uniforms. She was known for her one-legged and hooded tracksuits. Long before athleisure gained traction, Flo-Jo popularized flashy, feminine, and bright athletic outfits.

Above Left: Flo-Jo training in 1989; Above Right: Flo-Jo at 1988 Olympic Trials; Right: Williams at the 2004 US Open

In the '80s and '90s, Flo-Jo was a trendsetter. Among her many looks, you can see her rocking a variety of prints, neon, and sheer looks. All of these elements became popular in 90's fashion.

Above (left to right): Helena Bonham Carter in 1998, Cindy Crawford in 1999, Naomi Campbell in 1990, Cast of Fresh Prince of Bel-Air in 1991

Since starting her professional tennis career in 1995, Serena Williams has pushed the boundaries of tennis apparel. Williams never sticks to the same style; she plays with a variety of prints, color blocking, and silhouettes. From typical tennis skirts to catsuits to tutus, Williams always brings something new to the court. Williams has worked with Puma, Nike, and Virgil Abloh to design her competition outfits. In 2021, Williams collaborated with Nike to design her own athleisure collection.

SPORTS & FASHION In the early 2000s, Serena Williams wore a trench coat, graphic prints, bright colors, denim micro skirts, and matching sets that set her apart on the court. Some of these details became key trends in 2000s womenswear. However, the fashion industry also witnessed the rise of athleisure during the late 2000s and 2010s. Athleisure welcomed the more stylish parts of athletic wear, like William's specially designed looks.

Above (left to right): Eva Longoria 2005, Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie 2005, Foxy Brown 2004

Most sports originated with men, and therefore sportswear started as a men's category of clothing. With the rise of fitness classes and the inclusion of women in sports, women have started to look for athletic wear as well. It took the market a while to figure out what women wanted from their workout gear. However, companies eventually realized that most women want their workout gear to seamlessly fit into the rest of their lives. Brands started to design workout clothes for women that could be worn outside of the gym (to run errands or into a casual office). With increased opportunities and all of the same familial responsibilities, women needed clothes that could fit into every part of their day to eliminate time constantly changing outfits. Athleisure makes women's wardrobes adaptable for anything in their schedules.

Top Left: Kendall Jenner in Nike; Top Right: Hailey Beiber in Adidas; Bottom Left: Adidas Ad; Bottom Right: Under Armour Ad

Professional female athletes in sports encourage other women to pursue sports. In 2021, Serena Williams wore a one-legged suit designed by Nike to the Australia Open. This suit was inspired by Flo-Jo's many one-legged tracksuits. Williams' tribute is one example of how impactful representation in sports can be. While athleisure is relatively new, converting elements of athletic wear for daily garments has been occurring for ages. From sportcoats to yoga pants, almost any garment intended for sports has become fair game to become popularized off the field.

Block, E. (2022, February 15). All of the '90s fashion trends that have (and haven't) made a comeback. Who What Wear. Retrieved April 12, 2022, from https://www.whowhatwear.com/90s-fashion/slide2 Bricker, T. (2016, August 1). Photos from will smith's craziest looks on the fresh prince of bel-air. E! Online. Retrieved April 14, 2022, from https://www.eonline.com/photos/17018/will-smith-s-craziest-looks-on-the-fresh-prince-of-bel-air Charuza, N. (2020, November 24). Paris hilton and Nicole Richie's outfits from the simple life will have you saying "that's hot". POPSUGAR Fashion. Retrieved April 12, 2022, from https://www.popsugar.com/fashion/best-style-moments-from-simple-life-48002539 stream_view=1#photo-48003731 Gathoga-Ogbuike, C., Taylor, S., Ford, K., Kebreau, F., Lebona, N., & Braithwaite, K. (2021, February 15). The everlasting influence of the fast and fashionable flo-jo. MEFeater. Retrieved April 12, 2022, from https://www.mefeater.com/flo-jo-black-history-month/Hyde, S. Y. (2021, August 19). Serena Williams on her latest collection with Nike. Harper's BAZAAR. Retrieved April 12, 2022, from https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/trends/a37331917/serena-williams-design-crew-program/ Kristina Rodulfo. (2015, July 14). History of the denim skirt gallery. InStyle. Retrieved April 12, 2022, from https://www.instyle.com/fashion/ history-denim-skirt-see-its-evolution-through-years?slide=85888f3b-a92b-48aa-bf4a-afe5bfecd421#85888f3b-a92b-48aa-bf4a-afe5bfecd421 LeSavage, H. (2018, August 31). A brief history of Serena Williams' tennis fashion. Glamour. Retrieved April 12, 2022, from https://www.glamour.com/gallery/serena-williams-best-tennis-outfits-of-all-time Roby, I. (2021, December 15). The micro-mini skirt is back - here's how celebs wore it in the early 2000s. Nylon. Retrieved April 12, 2022, from https://www.nylon.com/fashion/celebrities-mini-skirt-trend-early-2000s Warner, F. (2005, May 16). Nike changes strategy on women's apparel. The New York Times. Retrieved April 14, 2022, from https://www.nytimes.com/2005/05/16/business/nike-changes-strategy-on-womens-apparel.html Wong, B. (2021, August 13). Photos of flo-jo's style - and nail - evolution, from bold to bolder. HuffPost. Retrieved April 12, 2022, from https://www.huffpost.com/entry/flojo-style-evolution_l_60ef1579e4b0b2a04a1fa453

Above: Flo-Jo at the 1988 Olympic Trials; Right: Williams at the 2021 Australia Open

ZINE TEAM Abena Acheampong

Madison Blair

Joshua Frueh

Jasmine Gierman

Jensen Johnson

Anna Laine

Clarisse Rosteck

Deidre Kegley

Thee Dominic LaSpiina

Colin McGrail

Liam Merkle

Simon Schaffner

Madeleine Schmidt

Carley Chastain

Zoë Haberstich

Ryan Kofsky

Vincent Lee Lyon

Jessica Qu

Nicole Scott

Wen Chen

Nikki Handorf

Kiley Kuhr

Sarah Malas

Samantha Rohr

Lauren Sewell

Kathryn Suddendorf

EDITORIAL TEAM

Molly Hetzer

Olivia Katenkamp

Rachael Olberding

Sydney Theiss

Kelly Steele

MEET THE PROFESSOR

Arti Sandhu

Growing up in an Army family meant Arti covered a lot of ground in India from a young age. A love of drawing and customizing of her Barbie doll led her to study fashion at NIFT in Delhi (India) and later in the UK. Since then she has taught Fashion Design in New Zealand and the US with frequent lectures on Indian fashion across the globe. She is currently an Associate Professor in Fashion at DAAP, UC and the author of Indian Fashion: Tradition, Innovation, Style (2015). Instagram: @sideways_toupee

GLOBAL FASHION ISSUES Abena Acheampong Madison Blair Carley Chastain Wen Chen Joshua Frueh Jasmine Gierman Zoë Haberstich Nikki Handorf Molly Hetzer* Jensen Johnson Olivia Katenkamp* Deidre Kegley Ryan Kofsky Kiley Kuhr Thee Laspina Anna Laine Vincent Lee Lyon Sarah Malas Colin McGrail Liam Merkle Rachael Olberding* Jessica Qu Samantha Rohr Clarisse Rosteck Arti Sandhu* Simon Schaffner Maddie Schmidt Nicole Scott Lauren Sewell Kelly Steele* Kat Suddendorf Sydney Theiss* *editorial team

GLOBAL FASHION ISSUES FASHION / DAAP

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