DIRT

HALLGARTEN & NOVUM WINES, OFFICIAL SUPPLIER

WRITTEN BY WINE WRITER, TV HOST AND DRINKS COMMUNICATOR, OLLY SMITH

“I feel the earth move under my feet”. The ferocious drama of an exploding volcano is a world away from the near imperceptible unfolding and recycling that gently shapes the living crust of our planet. Dirt isn’t really singular, but we tend to speak of it as though it’s one thing. The myriad physical matter contributing to the creation and character of the soil in a vineyard presents a colossal task of imagination. Who can hope to fully envisage the true scope and scale of its origins? As well as flora, fauna and weather, the silent remains of former inhabitants of this place all play their part. I think that’s why the sites of vineyards always feel poetic to me, gathering things that fall and giving life back through the vines. The soil is an ongoing opportunity, inseparable from the precise spot in which it exists yet always beneath our feet wherever we go.

I’ve always been struck by the impact volcanic soil has on wine. Whether it’s the acidity that flares out from a rich glass of Madeira or the intense finesse of Etna reds, an urgent cadence seems to be present across wines from volcanic soils which leads me to buy, keep and share a lot of them myself. Tokaji is one of my favourites and while it may not be top of everyone’s list, the thrilling zing of a bottle of sweetly charged 5 Puttonyos amplified by noble rot as well as the land of an old volcano is a lifelong delight of mine. The island of Santorini is another favourite, perhaps producing some of the most vivid volcanic wines. Great bottles typically deliver heroic intensity as well as thrilling, bristling zing across reds, whites and sweet wines pristinely charged with mineral-purity.

I first visited Santorini with Steve Daniel, Head of Buying at Hallgarten & Novum Wines, and Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, of Gaia Wines, many years ago when Campari was bafflingly unfashionable. Sipping Campari sundowners we discussed the pulse that seemed to pull through the dirt and pep up the fruit of the local vines. The nature of this UNESCO protected soil creates a phylloxera-free environment fostering spectacular vine age on the island which, coupled with different soil densities, elevations and aspects, gifts possibilities to intuitive wine growers and makers. One of the notable influences is the sea surrounding the vineyards on all sides. Yiannis famously experimented with aging his Assyrtiko called Thalassitis (‘from the sea’) underwater with really intriguing evolution, surging texture while still driving pure zing like a trident through the tastebuds. Without Santorini’s magic dirt, I’m not sure the wine would have evolved with quite the same spell-binding tension and focus.

Tasting wines from specific soil types for this piece was a revelation of tension, concentration, length and balance thanks in large part to old vines planted in specific soil.

Soil types, of course, are different from place to place, sometimes footstep to footstep. But a reassuring constant is soil’s ability to recover. It may take time, but a patch of earth that’s been farmed using chemical intervention seems to be able find its way back to balance given enough time. Today, soil and environmental health is a question more and more consumers are tuning in to. Coupled with the idea of the microbial activity in the soil, the symbiotic role played by mycorrhizal networks in the sharing and distribution of nutrients through dirt, the paradox of this silent yet characterful force is the loveliest thing to contemplate over a glass. We can’t escape it, the dirt is the land, the land is our planet and we are all joining forces with it sooner or later along with all beings that have passed before us. One love? I’ll raise a glass to that.

LEADING SPECIALIST WINE MERCHANT

Established in 1933, Hallgarten & Novum Wines celebrated its 90th anniversary last year. As one of the UK’s leading ‘specialist’ wine merchants, Hallgarten imports wines from around the world, supplying the premium hospitality and retail trade across the UK.

Its experienced buying team has constructed a diverse and award-winning portfolio of over 1,100 wines from 24 wine-producing countries. It blends some of the world’s greatest producers from the classic wine growing regions together with innovative, up-and coming wineries and winemakers from the emerging and esoteric winemaking world.

Hallgarten is proud to supply all the wines for Royal Ascot which can be enjoyed at restaurants and bars throughout the racecourse.

Please drink responsibly drinkaware.co.uk