ALANA DEIGHAN, ASHLEY DEAN & SOPHIE MARJORAM
TREND
A/W 2013/2014
CONTENTS 4-1112-17 18-23 24-29 30-33
CREATIVE DIRECTION
PRINT AND GRAPHICS
SPORTSWEAR
VM AND IN-STORE
BERLIN ARTICLE
INTRODUCTION
Autumn Winter 2013 presented a vast array of trends, with designers taking inspiration from everything varying from high tec sciences to antique bird cages. A/W presented a modern aesthetics being mixed with nostalgia for an uprising of heritage with contemporary futures. Designers are still erring on the side of caution during times of economic struggle with clinical compositions emphasising the minimalistic trend. Overall looks are a blend of country and city looks with a touch of vintage executed in modern ways. However for the more daring, outspoken graphics are having their say. Sportswear has a casual ric hness this season in its colour palette and the boudoir is a safe haven for another year running.
Creative directors have formulated and impressed upon various designers the overarching concept of “Clinical Composition”. This trend is about creating the perfect balance, using shapes, fabrics, proportions and colours that work together to make a whole. The aesthetic is clean lines, neutral colours and overall ease of use. This trend has emerged, as people in this hard economic time want to simplify and de-clutter everything around them. This pared down clinical trend can be seen in many other areas including artwork and sculpture and within everyday life for example areas within hospitals.
inspiration... “Complex Forms”, Structure VI, Sol Lewitt, 1990-91
colour palette
CREATIVE DIRECTION
Arctic Grey
Aqua Mid
Eglise Grey
Blinky Palermo, Ohne Titel/Untitled, 1969 Martian Skies
Railings
Kiwi Burst
CLINICAL COMPOSITION
THE GREAT OUTDOORS inspiration... Rich spicy levels of yellow and ginger sit alongside moss greens and autumnal reds, emerging as an essential colour direction for outwear, representing a constant repeat of deep autumnal tones which are now being infused with shades of light Prussian and Egyptian blur, replacing the brighter cyan and cerulean blue of last winter, taking on a more sophisticated greyed-off hue. Whilst times are hard and the recession is looming, nature is about the only thing that is free, so by amercing your consumers within the comfort of the outdoors, they can escape the hardships of everyday life in their shopping experience. We see rugged aesthetics of the great outdoors injected into the overall great outdoors look, helped along by beaded men and a camping/climbing chic theme.
Andy Goldwworthy Woven Branch Circular Arch, Dumfrieshire, 1986
David Attenborough
Maison Martin Margiela AW
colour palette Moss
Volcanic Splash
Bitter Chocolate
Sulphur Springs
Mean Mustard
ARTISAN ARTIFACTS inspiration... This obsession with antique accessories reflects a desire to escape the complex and highly technological dependance of contemporary society. It is the desire to return to time in which technology appeared to be something that humans could master –a time when you could fix your own car or bike, a time when you pop open the back of a camera and understand how it works. In short, the appeal of low-tech is it affirms our sense of independence and individuality. As we take a more hands on approach, function overtakes form and things appear much more purposeful. Classic, craft and quality create emotive ties as we are thrown back to our heritage roots.
All Saints singer sewing machines
Emin’s Hate and Power Can Be a Terrible Thing, 2004.
colour palette Gold Coin
Vert De Terre
Cinder Rose
India Yellow
Hobby Horse
BOLD AND BRASH The use of bold deconstructed and structured shapes result in a strong graphic aesthetic. This shape-play and experimental composition is used to create interest in pattern and typography. These bold graphic statements are used to create and combine words, symbols, and images to create a visual representation of ideas and messages. To juxtapose the clinical/minimal trend other creatives have turned to strong vibrant colours and in your face graphics to make a loud, fun and slightly juvenile statement. These colours and themes are not dissimilar to Matisse’s cutouts and The Face magazine’s early covers.
Happy Days
inspiration...
Cuban Heat
Garnet Symphony
Matisse, The Snail 1952-53 Bright White
The Face February 1987
colour palette
PRINT AND GRAPHICS
Royal Blue
Minted Glory
Jet Black
Bright White
colour palette
David Carson for Ray Gun Magazine
inspiration...
This may involve striking arrangements of large black headings and dark pictures contrasting with airy typography and light illustrations. Black and white are two of the most popular colours found in fashion as they are never absent from the runway or print and graphic of all eras. The black and white fashion trend is a timeless trend which will never go out of style due to the elegance and simplicity exuded by the colours. Known for its back to basics tendencies, and being a contrast of safe but statement at the same time.
William Klein Simone Daillencourt, Capucci, 1960
COLOUR VOID
CONTROVERSIAL QUIPS In a quest for individuality and to have a voice in our over populated society, we embrace kitsch slogans as a way to express ourselves. Creatives turn to this category to state their opinion on a culturally-significant situation that they feel strongly about. A do-it-yourself esq. design becomes the norm as we rise up against the machine. This direction is all about taking control of our own agenda from being spoon fed during the massconsumption years. Both global leaders & brands sit up and take notice of the continued empowerment & radicalism of the everyday person. This trend can be adopted as a new culture of protest, giving your consumers a louder outcry than just their social networking feeds.
inspiration...
United Colours of Benetton – 1996
“Untitled” -I shop, therefore I am, 1987
colour palette Yellow Ground
1987 Denim
Red Carpet
White Light
Tailored
colour palette
SPORTSWEAR inspiration... With the hype of the Olympics still present, sportswear has taken inspiration from previous great Olympians and their attire. There has been a surge to get fit and stay healthy through good old fashion sports and training. Fashion has followed suit with heritage influences being a key theme. Using traditional sports fabrics this look is timeless and authentic. The Varsity look is fundamental to this trend. This look has been modernized by using simple sans serif fonts and playful slogans and statements blazoned across garments. Key items for this trend are the varsity jacket, raglan tee’s, old school joggers, sweatshirts and classic trainers.
Red Stallion
African Adventure
Tarragon Glory
Woodland Fern
Rome Olympic Games 1960 David Jones Mystic Mauve
Incarnadine
Rokit vintage shell suit
OLD SCHOOL KICKS
TECHNICOLOUR TRAINING Colour is growing up in a move away from neons and brights, forming into more sophisticated but bold tones. Bold colours and patterns portray a positive outlook, which is a key element within sports and sportswear. Bolder and brighter tones have been proven to improve your mood and are associated with a more positive outlook on life as whole, linking to positive affects exercise is proven to have on your mood. Bold colours and graphics are quickly making a return, but retailers are keeping it simple, focusing on two or three colour combinations at a time. Colour blocking was first seen and most influential in the 1960’s mod era, also known as the colour explosion, introducing clashing colours and colour combinations that never before been seen.
Piet Mondrian, Composition II in Red, Blue, and Yellow, 1930
Kandinsky Circles
inspiration...
colour palette Minted Glory
Hot Paprika
Rectory Red
Windsor Blue
Sunny Savannah
SPORTS-TECH A new generation stimulated by digital know-how has undoubtedly created new technology to assist in every step of their life, including sportswear. A premium focus on innovative design and technical components contribute to this contemporary lifestyle, attempting to simplify consumers needs where possible. Technology can also bring flexibility which is an asset to modern day society where time is of the essence.
Bjรถrk: All Is Full Of Love video
inspiration...
Spedo Fasr Skin Technology
colour palette Red Carpet
Jade cluster
1987 Denim
Twilight Cinders
Charlottes Locks
BOUDOIR Rock Candy
inspiration...
Fire Cracker
Wholemeal Honey
Soft Montelimar
The Boudoir theme is feminine and essentially luxurious. The feel of a mansion house walk in closet or an old Hollywood dressing room is eternally glamorous. Designing your VM and In-store environments to fit this theme is capitalizing on this association giving the consumers a luxurious shopping experience. The Boudoir theme is a commonly relied upon aesthetic for VM in the fashion world with many brands using it over the years to make sure there In-store environments appeal to the female population.
Downton Abbey
Ginger Rogers in her portable dressing room during filming of Top Hat, 1935
Rock A Billy
colour palette
Whisper of Dramatic
VM & IN-STORE
Jet Black t
Night Jewels
Amethyst Shower
Purple Infusion
Bright White
colour palette Cy Twombly
Hand illustrated designs have an artist freedom and gestural quality, rather than the precise repeats of typical digital design, creating an artist flair and overall less controlled theme. Spontaneous mark making lends an expressive quality to the designs, where occasional mistakes are embraced. Designs are commonly lead by a strong narrative, often reflecting the personality of the maker, creating a more personal quality to the body of the work. Mark making and sketch motifs add a DIY personality to your designs. Printing onto existing patterns/surfaces creates spontaneous and playful defaced aesthetics.
inspiration...
Picasso
PERSONALIZED PRINTS
URBAN APPAREL inspiration...
‘Street’ is a philosophy espousing an express yourself spirit that once emerged among an urging urban youth culture who wanted something different, new and unique. Influences come from the street subcultures like the skate culture, graffiti scene, punk, rock and hip-hop music that flourished back in the 80s and 90s. This can be seen as a desirable area for contemporary society to take on to share different views via many different mediums, tearing up the ‘expected norm’ with the same precocious, expressful energy we experience each time a new underground movement emerges.
Banksy in Boston
Tyler the creator in the Yonkers video
colour palette Stoney Ground
Aspen Silver
Down Pipe
Penny Black
Jet Black
berlin Berlin has its own artistic and eccentric aesthetic, which stems from its post war roots. With a quirky mixture of industrial buildings and 20th century architecture street art adorns every corner. The city as a whole provides bohemian inspiration for its ever evolving creative individuals.
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48 hours in.. After a coffee and a pastry ease yourself into the laid back Berlin life style by unearthing a bargain in Humana. If you can’t find a pre owned gem here, there’s something wrong with you. Scour every rack and rail and dedicate some serious time to find your unique berlin style, whilst gathering inspiration from the vintage pieces. Make sure you google the nearest one as they’re dotted all over the city.
Then for a spot of culture and lunch head over to the KW gallery situated in the eclectic Auguststraße district. On your saunter keep an eye out for the notorious Tacheles artists situ, known for its incredible street art and overwhelming eery atmosphere. KW Institute for Contemporary Art in Berlin is a place for the production and presentation of cutting edge art. Great to contextualise your trend research. The gallery has no collection of its own but instead views itself as a laboratory for communicating and advancing contemporary cultural developments. An essential place to visit if you want to immerse yourself in the current. Refresh your palette at the adjoining Café Bravo with a glass of wine and the infamous club sandwich. Continue your journey by visiting ‘Do you read me?’, an independent book store - a must go for all you magazine and zine junkies!
After working up an appetite head over to White Trash (insider tip: get there early or make sure you book to avoid disappointment) an experience an authentic american style feast. Imagine an un-gimmicky and seriously cool TGI Fridays! Maybe get yourself inked downstairs with the perk of a free steak or just lounge at the bar in preparation for the night ahead. Spend some time people watching, observing the trend setters of Berlin. 1am is time to get going with Cookies Club as your destination. Not giving away any spoilers but here is the place to indulge yourself in Berlin’s underground music scene and have a memorable night to say the least.Insider tip.. Go round the corner to see the deserted Brandenburg Gate minus the tourists. Nothing has looked so good at 5am!
Take it easy for your second day, wake up late, grab a bratwurst from the plentiful street venders and make your way to Weekday situated on Friedrichstraße for an edgy mix of european brands and statement VM. Check out the shoppers here, always ahead of the curve!Then for a harrowing piece of German history spend your afternoon at the Holocaust Memorial, eerily breathtaking and visually beautiful.
To end your final evening on a momentous high, go back through the eras at Clärchens Ballhaus. After sitting down to traditional Berlin cuisine let your inhibitions go and dance the night away to some old classics in this beautifully kitsch 1900‘s ballroom. A night you won’t forget in a hurry!