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“I didn’t know it was trendy or fashionable at the time. It was just something I thought I’d like to replicate in a pub and that’s what sowed the seed for Wild Honey Inn”
Aidan McGrath, Owner, Wild Honey Inn
Victor Erisay has been named Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year for 2024
By partnering with hospitality businesses, Samantha Forrest wants to help make premises more autism friendly
Half-baked measures fall far short of what’s needed to address the challenges facing hospitality businesses
Orna Larkin on turning 21 and going to her first Michelin star restaurant 18
Two members of the Virgin Media Business Backing Business community chat about their growth plans
Wellness in the hotel sector allows hotels to distinguish themselves in a crowded market
Editor: Denise Maguire
Creative Director: Jane Matthews
Art Director: Lenny Rooney
Stock Photography: iStock
Infographics: www.flaticon.com
Production: Claire Kiernan
Sales Director: Trish Murphy
Managing Director: Gerry Tynan
Chairman: Diarmaid Lennon
Welcome to issue 8 of Hotel & Catering Review 2024
Published by: Ashville Media, Unit 55 Park West Road, Park West Industrial Estate, Dublin 12, D12 X9F9. Tel: (01) 432 2200
ISSN: 0332-4400
All rights reserved. Every care has been taken to ensure that the information contained in this magazine is accurate. The publishers cannot, however, accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Reproduction by any means in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher is prohibited. © Ashville Media Group 2024. All discounts, promotions and competitions contained in this magazine are run independently of Hotel & Catering Review. The promoter/ advertiser is responsible for honouring the prize.
The government’s decision not to reduce the hospitality VAT rate in Budget 2025 has been condemned by all facets of the industry. It’s a move that has added fuel to an already raging fire and one, says RAI Chief Executive Adrian Cummins, that will force more restaurants and coffee shops to permanently close their doors. Since the Budget announcement, various Ministers have pointed to the €4,000 cash payment to hospitality and retail businesses as a consolation prize for the lack of action on VAT9. But with the minimum wage also set to increase by 80c, it’s unlikely the cash payment will make any difference at all to thousands of businesses across the country. Hospitality is one of Ireland’s largest indigenous employers; it supports over 280,000 livelihoods, some 70% of which are outside of Dublin. Failure on the government’s part to address the VAT rate or introduce measures that would have any meaningful impact is going to put those livelihoods in jeopardy. The IHF along with the RAI, the LVA and VFI, are calling for an urgent re-assessment of the government’s policy approach to Irish hospitality and tourism before it’s too late. Speaking after the Budget, Taoiseach Simon Harris said he was conscious that the cost base for small hospitality businesses is significant, adding that he’s not ruling out a return to the VAT9 issue in the future. However, soundbites and vague assurances aren’t what’s needed. The industry needs viable, practical supports that will address the challenges facing the industry before even more businesses go to the wall.
As always, there’s plenty to enjoy in this issue. If you have any thoughts or opinions on this month’s content, please do drop us a line.
Email: denise.maguire@ ashvillemediagroup.com
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Some of Ireland’s top food producers were honoured at the 2024 Euro-Toques Food Awards, held at Airfield Estate in Dublin in September. The event, which provides a platform for chefs to acknowledge and commend the dedication and craft of small artisan producers, saw the presentation of six awards across the categories of Water, Land, Farm, Dairy, Artisan Produce and Craft. This year’s award winners are:
Water: Rossmore Oysters, for their exceptional native Irish oysters and significant contribution to regenerative aquaculture in Ireland.
Land: The Apple Farm, for their outstanding apples and contribution to the protection of Irish heritage and biodiversity.
Farm: McGeough’s Butchers, for their superb charcuterie meats and mastery of traditional methods, creating products that capture the unique flavours and character of the Irish landscape.
Dairy: Coolattin Cheddar, for their remarkable raw milk cheddar and commitment to championing Ireland’s rich and flavoursome dairy bounty.
Artisan Produce: BKultured, for their outstanding Water Kefir and dedication to advancing the artisan production of fermented drinks.
Craft: Blackwater Distillery, for their outstanding spirits and contribution to protecting the tradition and skill of the ageold craft of distillation in Ireland.
Chef Conor Halpenny, Head of the Euro-Toques Food Council, said: “Our mission is more than just celebrating excellence –it’s about raising awareness of the incredible work being done by small producers who are the backbone of our food culture. These are the people who commit to local, seasonal produce, ensuring that what we eat is grown, farmed and crafted with care here in Ireland.”
Employees of the O’Donoghue Ring Collection were cheered across the finish line of a 5km Fun Run in Killarney in August, as the finale event to a six-week summer of wellbeing from the Kerry-based hotel group. The group spearheaded three key initiatives over a six-week summer period including yoga and breathwork sessions, training and nutrition plans and the Couch to 5km challenge. Speaking about the initiative, Gemma Ring, Managing Director of the O’Donoghue Ring Collection, said: "The summertime can be particularly demanding in hospitality and it’s essential that we all take the time to prioritise both our physical and mental wellbeing. Our six-week wellness programme offered something for everyone, whether that was nutrition, strength training or simply setting a goal to get more steps in, we really wanted everyone to participate.”
The purchase of The Keadeen Hotel in Newbridge, Co Kildare has been completed by the O’Callaghan Family Group, represented by Matthew O’Callaghan and Denis Williams. The 69-bedroom Keadeen Hotel, the county's longest-standing family-run hotel, is the latest acquisition by the Group. It will become part of The iNUA Collection and will be managed by Cliste Hospitality on behalf of the O’Callaghan family. All existing management and employees of The Keadeen Hotel will continue to work with the new owners.
A new outdoor wraparound terrace featuring a hand-painted mural across the ceilings and walls by Joanne Murphy has opened at Jean-Georges at The Leinster. A new autumn menu has also launched at the restaurant, along with an express-style lunch menu which changes each month and includes two seasonal dishes for each course. Dishes include a tuna tartare, shaved broccoli & kale salad and warm chocolate cake. “Dublin is a city that, for many years, I’ve wanted to discover and explore. It has such a rich history and expansive cuisine, culture and amazing ingredients that I’m so happy to celebrate. At The Leinster, we bring a taste of Asia, France and New York to the rooftop whilst working with local Irish producers to create a unique dining experience for all guests,” said Jean-Georges.
Ashford Castle has announced the appointment of Dermot Fetton as its new Director of Food & Beverage. A seasoned hospitality professional with over 35 years of experience, Dermot brings a wealth of expertise to the role, from a career that has spanned both Michelin-starred restaurants and five-star hotels in Ireland. Previous experience includes roles at Castlemartyr Resort and more recently, Dromoland Castle Hotel & Resort. His career also includes ownership of two successful restaurants – Cloister Restaurant & Bar and Henry’s Bistro & Wine Bar, both of which earned Michelin accreditation.
In September, a team of employees from Dalata Hotel Group embarked on a gruelling 1,100km cycle, one of the longest charity cycles in the country, crossing 21 counties in aid of the Group’s charity partners – The Marie Keating Foundation, Air Ambulance NI and Leukaemia Care. As well as being one of the longest charity cycles in Ireland, there were also some difficult terrain to test their ability, strength and stamina. The Sperrin Mountains in Derry and Patrick’s Hill in Cork were particularly challenging. The team were joined by other employees and partner organisations along the way, as they stopped by several of the Group’s hotels in Belfast, Derry, Sligo, Galway, Limerick, Cork and Wexford before finishing in the Clayton Hotel Ballsbridge, Dublin. If you would like to support the fundraising efforts, you can contribute online by visiting https://www. idonate.ie/event/greatdalatacycle2024
Amber Springs Hotel in Gorey has donated €16,591.02 to LauraLynn Ireland's Children's Hospice. Eibhear Coyle, General Manager of Amber Springs Hotel, said: "We are incredibly honoured to have built a relationship which aligns with our family hotel brand. We aim to make a tangible difference in the lives of children and families facing difficult circumstances. For every direct booking made through www.ambersprings.ie, we automatically contribute to LauraLynn Ireland. This supports the hospice's mission to bring comfort and care to those in need."
Castlemartyr Resort in Cork and One Pery Square in Limerick are among the 14 properties in Ireland to have been awarded a One Michelin Key distinction. The Michelin Key is awarded to hotels that meet an excellent standard in five considerations including architecture and interior design; quality and consistency of service; overall personality and character; value for the price; and a significant contribution to the guest experience.
Castlemartyr Resort General Manager, Brendan Comerford, said: “We pride ourselves on offering a bespoke Cork experience here at Castlemartyr Resort.
From the warm, personal welcome guests receive, being immersed in the historic landscapes and grounds, to our resort pursuits and exquisite dining, we strive to continually elevate and evolve the guest experience.”
One Pery Square owner Patricia Roberts said: “The experience we offer is all about our guests and how we make them feel, rather than just delivering on stars or procedures. We have been very lucky to receive many accolades and awards over the past 15 years and today’s Michelin Key is a truly wonderful achievement for the whole One Pery Square team.”
As part of the International Oyster Festival fringe events, Galway’s westend launched Trolley Parton, the city’s first-ever Oyster Trolley. Loaded with Dooncastle Oysters, Trolley Parton rolled through westend’s iconic pubs all weekend, serving up fresh oysters on the go. Sarah de Brún of Oysome also debuted a unique treat – oyster ice cream with a rich stout syrup drizzle, adding a sweet twist to the savoury star of the weekend.
Moxy Hotel and Residence Inn by Marriott have opened in Cork city. Designed to cater to the diverse needs of today’s travellers, this dual-brand development marks a new addition to Cork’s hospitality sector. Guests arriving at the 153-bedroom Moxy Hotel are greeted with a complimentary cocktail at Bar Moxy which doubles as the check-in counter. After exploring the destination, they can unwind with games, music and craft cocktails in the lobby designed as a dynamic social hub. Residence Inn offers business travellers and families 53 spacious suites, each with fully equipped kitchens and separate living, working and sleeping zones.
...on the workplace tech he relies on
The Plate 4 Plate initiative was launched by Zambrero in 2014. Through it, we donate a meal to someone in need for every burrito or bowl sold in our restaurants nationwide. Each Zambrero location features a counter that displays the number of meals donated based on the global sales of burritos and bowls.
In partnership with our point-of-sale (POS) provider, we developed the technology behind the counters. The donation count is displayed both on the customer-facing POS screen and on dedicated displays within each restaurant. These counters consist of
one or two screens connected to a media player, showing the count in real time, updating every few seconds. The display is powered by custom-built software that presents the count in an easy-to-read format, with data received via API from our POS provider. This allows us to also feature a live counter on our website.
The counter requires minimal maintenance, primarily focused on occasional hardware troubleshooting for the media players and connected screens. Fortunately, we haven’t needed a backup plan, as the API has been reliable for over 10 years.
Cork native Tommy Butler has been appointed as the new Executive Chef at The Johnstown Estate in Enfield, Co Meath. Previously, he was Executive Chef at Portmarnock Resort & Jameson Golf Links, a role he also previously held at Farnham Estate in Cavan. Other prior experience includes The Radisson Blu Royal Hotel Dublin, the Talbot Hotel Stillorgan and Clarion Hotel Cork. Tommy also honed his skills internationally in France, where he worked in Michelinstarred restaurants including Le Relais De Sevres in Paris, where he discovered his love for fusion food.
Micro-qualifications under the Skills to Advance programme equip employees with the green skills needed for sustainable business practice
“We were able to bring all these new skills back to the business basically straight away, starting off with waste segregation, looking at reusable items for the business, cutting out plastics and also energy savings”
Jon Geary, Co-Founder of the award-winning Little Mamma’s gelato shop in Donegal Town
Now, more than ever, companies need to ensure their employees have the skills to compete in a low carbon, resource efficient and circular economy. Upskilling staff in green skills is becoming recognised as an essential part of future-proofing businesses, while empowering employees to act as agents of change in tackling climate change.
With the Skills to Advance, Green Skills microqualifications, it has never been easier to train staff. This highly-subsidised suite of programmes is designed to boost awareness of the key environmental sustainability issues affecting organisations and equip every learner with the green skills needed for sustainable business practice.
These micro-qualifications have been developed under Skills to Advance, an initiative providing subsidised upskilling for employers and their employees, funded by SOLAS, the State agency responsible for Further Education and Training (FET). The programmes have been created in collaboration with SOLAS, the 16 Education and Training Boards (ETBs) nationwide, the Environmental Protection Agency, Sustainable Energy Authority of Ireland, Irish Water, IDA Ireland,
Enterprise Ireland and the Regional Skills Fora. Micro-qualifications are short, stackable, fully accredited qualifications. They are provided locally by ETBs across the country and at little to no cost. Programmes are delivered in a flexible, blended format with tutor support and online digital resources to enhance the learning experience and are scheduled to suit participating companies and their workforce.
There are currently seven Green Skills microqualification courses that are awarded at levels 4 to 6 on the National Framework of Qualifications. Programmes include Environmental Sustainability in the Workplace, Sustainable Procurement, the Circular Economy and more, with further programmes currently in development.
Since 2019, more than 80,000 people have participated in a Skills to Advance course. These programmes are a fantastic opportunity for career development within companies, empowering business owners and employees with the skills to create more sustainable, competitive and profitable companies, while future-proofing jobs.
Learn more about the programmes on offer by visiting skillstoadvance.ie or contacting your local ETB
The Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen chef has been named Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year for 2024
At an event at the Intercontinental Hotel in Dublin, Victor Erisay was crowned Euro-Toques Young Chef of the Year 2024, presented by La Rousse Foods. Mentored by Mickael Viljanen, Victor Erisay wowed judges at the competition finale, creating two standout dishes that highlighted Irish produce and tradition.
The seven finalists had to craft two original dishes featuring Skeaghanore duck and its offal, McNally heritage beetroot and heritage carrots. The judging panel included Michelinstarred chefs like Mark Birchall, (Restaurant Moor Hall) Kenneth Culhane (The Dysart Petersham) and Stephen Hayes (The Bishop’s Buttery), alongside Gareth Mullins (Anantara The Marker Dublin), Conor Halpenny (Square) and Domini Kemp (Lottie’s). The kitchen was steered by Kwanghi Chan (Bites by Kwanghi) while former winner Shauna Murphy added her expertise.
This year’s theme – Inspiring Regeneration – challenged contestants to explore how the concept of regeneration could be applied in the kitchen. It emphasised using local, seasonal produce, minimising waste and reviving traditional Irish culinary heritage.
Victor Erisay impressed judges with a starter of whipped Skeaghanore Duck offal parfait, heritage beetroot, cassis, smoked duck stroopwafel and a main course of whole roasted Skeaghanore Duck, carrot & bergamot pureìe, glaceì heritage carrots, clementine and sauce a l’orange.
Back row (l-r): Shauna Murphy (Pullman Restaurant), Gareth Mullins (Anantara The Marker Dublin), Stephen Hayes (The Bishop’s Buttery), Conor Halpenny (Square), Domini Kemp (Lottie’s), Mark Birchall (Restaurant Moor Hall), Kwanghi Chan (Bites), Kenneth Culhane (The Dysart Petersham) Front row (l-r): Victor Erisay (Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen), Nell McCarthy (dede), Anna Hevers (Goldie), Tom Donohoe (Orwell Road), Marcell Palfalusi (Thyme Restaurant), David Harte (The Searooms at Kelly’s),Bryan Bridgeman (Homestead Cottage)
Featured on the awards dinner menu which highlighted top local producers were Andarl Farm (Mayo), Blackwater Distillery (Waterford), Boyne Valley Cheese (Meath), Coolattin Cheddar (Wicklow), Garryhinch Mushrooms (Offaly), Goatsbridge Trout (Kilkenny), Leitrim Hill Creamery, McGeough’s Butchers (Galway), Mike's Fancy Cheese (Down), Rossmore Oysters (Cork), Sliabh Aughty Honey (Galway), The Apple Farm (Tipperary) and Velvet Cloud (Mayo). Wines were provided by partners JN Wines.
Erisay’s
"This year’s theme – Inspiring Regeneration – challenged contestants to explore how the concept of regeneration could be applied in the kitchen. It emphasised using local, seasonal produce, minimising waste and reviving traditional Irish culinary heritage"
Starter: Mcnally's carrots and sea buckthorn
Main dish: Skeaghanore duck with beetroot
Mentor: Dan Hannigan
Main dish: Skeaghanore duck, beetroot, apple served with a duck liver and blackberry sauce; Skeaghanore duck heart and leg ragù, with potato foam and duck fat crispies
Dessert: Carrot tartlet with caramelised oats, meadowsweet ice-cream and a carrot
caramel
Mentor: Ahmet Dede
Main dish: Duck, McNally Family Farm carrot, miso, pine with Paco's callie
Dessert: McNally Family Farm beetroot, raspberry, Killowen Yoghurt, lemon verbena
Mentor: Chris Fullam
Starter: Heirloom carrot and mussel chawanmushi with dressed mussels and carrots, dill emulsion
Main dish: Roast Skeaghanore Duck, neck sausage, duck fat Pommes Anna, heritage beetroot, fresh walnut
Mentor: John Coffey
Main dish: Skeaghanore Duck, heritage carrot, Valentia Island Vermouth, chamomile, offal faggot
Dessert: St. Tola Goat Cheese mousse, beetroot & blackberry sorbet, oat crumble, sweet Cicily meringue, poached beetroot, goat's milk caramel
Mentor: Aishling Moore
Main dish: Duck, beetroot and neck sausage
Victor Erisay’s starter of whipped Skeaghanore Duck offal parfait, heritage beetroot,
Starter: Carrot cake, kefir and candied
walnut
Mentor: Robbie McCauley
Hennessy has selected Irish artists Maser and Conor Harrington to create its Founder’s Edition bottle, celebrating the 300th anniversary of the birth of its Irish founder, Richard Hennessy. The design embodies the enduring influence of the Corkonian who emigrated to Cognac and created the globally iconic Hennessy brand. It’s the perfect blend of then and now. www.hennessy.com
Franciscan Well has launched the fourth brew in its Docklands Series, a Bohemian pilsner created in collaboration with brewers from Staropramen Smíchov in Prague. Brewed with traditional methods like the double decoction mash, Staropramen x FW Pilsner (ABV – 5.0%) not only delivers a delicious beer but also celebrates the cultural exchange between Cork and Prague through its aroma and flavour. www.franwellbar.com
Dublin venue BAR 1661 has launched its new cocktail menu for 2024/25 – ‘We Call this Power’. A celebration of the bonds of collaboration, community and cocktails, the new menu pays tribute to BAR 1661’s partners and producers, all of whom have contributed to the bar’s achievements over the past five years. Cocktails include Backbone, Twin City and Refraction. www.bar1661.ie
Speakeasy cocktail bar 9 Below hosted London-based cocktail bar Satan’s Whiskers in September. Named in the 50 Best Bars, Satan’s Whiskers is renowned for its classic, no frills approach to cocktails. Bartenders and trade professionals turned up to sample an exclusive menu of expertly curated cocktails including Sands with Tanqueray No. Ten and East 8 Hold Up with Ketel One. www.9below.ie
The General Manager at Radisson Blu Hotel Dublin Airport talks succession planning and adapting to industry challenges
HOW IS BUSINESS AT THE MOMENT?
2024 is proving to be another successful year as we are benefitting from the return of the US market and the growth in airport passenger numbers. However, the impact of rising energy and labour costs is forcing us to adapt and evolve our operational practices and efficiencies to maximise our profitability. The renovation of our 229 bedroom hotel & conference centre has significantly driven new business by positioning us as a premier destination for corporate events and conferences.
HOW MUCH OF YOUR BUSINESS IS CORPORATE TRAVELLERS?
“My role allows me to engage with a diverse range of people and cultures whilst fostering a vibrant and inclusive workplace”
some great success stories within my team. Radek Patocka is a great example – he was promoted from our Head Chef position to a Food & Drink Operations Manager and more recently, to Executive Assistant Manager. Being awarded the Irish Hospitality Institute Hotel Manager of the Year in 2022 was also a very proud moment.
To address challenges, we continually adapt and evolve with the times. Embracing work-life flexibility allows us to cater to the expectations of the next generation of employees. Energy costs and sustainability are significant concerns and we tackle them by implementing eco-friendly practices and seeking innovative solutions to reduce our environmental footprint.
Sustainability has become a crucial focus in our business. Adopting sustainable practices is not just about reducing our carbon footprint, but also about meeting the expectations of increasingly eco-conscious travellers. Implementing energyefficient systems, reducing waste and sourcing locally significantly lowers our operational costs. We have set ambitious emission reduction targets to be net zero by 2050.
Our client base is predominantly corporate. With our location within walking distance from the airport terminals, we are the first choice for guests arriving on late flights or departing early in the morning. We provide a variety of essential services tailored to meet the needs of our guests – 24-hour shuttle service for easy airport transfers, early check-in options and soundproof rooms that ensure a restful stay. Guests enjoy 24-hour room service, flexible check-in times and a 24-hour front desk to accommodate any schedule. A complimentary Grab-&-Go Breakfast is also available.
Since 2016. My journey with The Radisson Hotel Group began in 2012 when I was appointed Front
Office Manager. I quickly advanced to Rooms Division Manager in June of that year. In 2013, I was appointed to the role of Executive Assistant Manager, responsible for the overall operations of the hotel. In 2016, I completed Radisson Hotels’ General Manager Training Program and was then promoted to the role of General Manager.
My role allows me to engage with a diverse range of people and cultures whilst fostering a vibrant and inclusive workplace. I was so proud when we were awarded The Great Place to Work award earlier this year; it signifies our dedication to fostering an environment where every individual feels valued, respected and empowered. I’m a firm believer in succession planning and there are
Looking ahead, I am focused on driving revenue growth and enhancing profitability whilst mentoring and developing my team. Having recently graduated from The Radisson Hotel Group Real Estate & Development training programme, I am working closely with our hotel group, Windward Management, on projects to elevate our brand and market position. Looking beyond my current role, my ambition is to transition into managing multiple properties, which would enable me to have a broader impact on the company’s success while offering new challenges and learning opportunities. But on a personal note, I have my sights set on completing the Dublin City Marathon in 2025 –no pressure!!
“If you can get your child to engage with foods they don’t normally eat and make it fun, then it’s much more of a stress-free process”
aking the fuss out of mealtimes is high up on the priority list for any parent that’s ever dealt with a picky child. With two fussy eaters herself, Samantha Forrest decided to tackle the problem head on by setting up Fussy Food Plates, a business based around both product and service. A background in STEM and engineering meant developing the concept was the easy part. Then followed two years of R&D before Fussy Food Plates launched its first product in January 2023 – a 9 inch durable plastic plate featuring a blank face that can be ‘dressed’ with food, thereby making food fun as opposed to a chore. “As parents, we’re very good at teaching children how to ride a bike or how to swim, but we rarely sit down and educate them about their food – where it came from and getting them involved and engaged. If you can get your child to engage with foods they don’t normally eat and make it fun, then it’s much more of a stress-free process,” says Samantha. A range of accessories have also been launched, including food cutters and a silicone spoon and fork, ideal for children with dexterity issues. On the service side, an online course will teach parents the fundamentals of fussy eating and equip them with the tools they need to make mealtimes less stressful.
Samantha also recently met with Dublin’s Lord Mayor to talk about the city’s three year plan to make it more autism friendly. “We’ve found that our products are really popular among children with sensory needs, who may not like certain foods touching on their plate. We’ve done some work with AsIAm and some local autistic groups in helping
By partnering with hospitality businesses, Samantha Forrest wants to help make premises more autism friendly
those children engage with food in a stress-free way.” Partnering with restaurants and hotels to give them an understanding of what it’s like for a neurodivergent family to visit their premises is also on the cards. “Part of our service offering is giving these businesses tips and tricks on how they can make those visits a bit smoother for customers and why they should be publicising this part of their offering. There are so many family friendly restaurants across the county but what are they doing beyond, for example, leaving a piece of paper and some crayons on the table for the child? How are they actually factoring in the needs of a neurodivergent family?” For neurodiverse people, even going to a restaurant can be challenging. From research she has conducted, Samantha has found that a lack of visual representation of food on a menu and being approached by a stranger to take an order can cause anxiety. “I think there’s quite a bit that restaurants and hotels can do, whether it’s allowing customers to pre-order a meal or printing a neurodiverse menu. These aren’t massive costs, but could make a big difference.” Incorporating a few small elements can make all the difference and that’s the message she wants to get across to hospitality businesses across the country and to organisations like the Irish Hotels Federation and the Restaurants Association of Ireland.
Next up, the plan is to expand into more global regions and partner with businesses in the hospitality sector. With Dublin working towards becoming the
world’s first autism-friendly capital city, products and services from Fussy Food Plates could play a role in that ambition. “There are so many ways in which hotels and restaurants can make their premises more welcoming to neurodiverse customers. It’s just about getting that message across.”
www.fussyfoodplates.com
Hospitality organisations including the Irish Hotels Federation (IHF), the Restaurants Association of Ireland (RAI), the Vintners’ Federation of Ireland (VFI) and the Licensed Vintners Association (LVA), have expressed their disappointment over measures for the hospitality sector announced in Budget 2025. Despite hopes that the 9% VAT rate would be reinstated, no such decrease was announced. Instead, the government has proposed a series of minor supports, including a cash payment of €4,000 to hospitality and retail businesses, with just 39,000 set to benefit.
“The decision not to reduce the hospitality VAT rate is short-sighted and extremely concerning given the stark commercial environment that food service businesses are operating under throughout the country. These businesses are facing a perfect storm as they grapple with rising costs, the impact of the 13.5% VAT rate and very tight margins. It is becoming increasingly clear that government policies are now fundamentally at odds with the long-term interests of our sector and wider tourism industry,” said IHF President Michael Magner. Commenting on the €4,000 business payment, he said: “At just under €77 per week, this just demonstrates how out of touch policymakers in government are with the commercial reality facing hospitality businesses. It falls so far short of what is needed, that it will have almost no impact.” He added that most small regional hotels with more than 30 bedrooms would be disqualified from this minimal level of support.
“These businesses are facing a perfect storm as they grapple with rising costs, the impact of the 13.5% VAT rate and very tight margins”
Michael Magner, IHF President
‘HALF-BAKED
Measures announced in Budget 2025 have added fuel to an already raging fire in the hospitality sector
The LVA estimates that one in three Dublin pubs also won’t qualify for the measure. “This is a Budget which shows how little the government has been listening to the hospitality sector,” said Donall O’Keeffe, CEO of the LVA. “We have been treated like an economic afterthought. They obviously do not view the struggles that are impacting our sector as important. It doesn’t concern them that almost every day we see well-known small businesses all around Ireland shutting their doors for good. It also doesn’t seem to bother them that it is the government themselves who are key contributors to the problems in hospitality.”
“This is a Budget which shows how little the government has been listening to the hospitality sector”
Donall O’Keeffe, CEO, LVA
Budget 2025 also included a measure to increase minimum wage by 80c to €3.50 an hour from 1 January. “The government is mandating multiple structural step changes in our cost base. VAT, employers’ PRSI, sick leave entitlements, pension auto-enrolment, minimum wage increases – this all adds up and puts an extensive additional burden on our industry. It is no wonder that so many small businesses are struggling,” added O’Keeffe. The IHF President described the half-baked measures announced in Budget 2025, adding they will have almost no impact for businesses struggling with ever-increasing costs, much of which are a direct result of the government’s own economic policies. “The bottom line is that inaction now poses an enormous risk to our wider hospitality and tourism industry which, as one of Ireland’s largest indigenous employers, supports over 280,000 livelihoods, some 70% of which are outside of Dublin.”
Once again, the government has failed to take action on the excise duty issue in the licensed trade. The VFI has sounded an alarm that the insufficient measures contained in Budget 2025 will push many pubs to breaking point. “The Budget is a disaster for our sector. We have been clear with the government about the immense pressure pubs are under, yet they have failed to deliver any meaningful support. Every minister and TD fully understands this Budget will lead to closures for a huge number of businesses across the country. The government’s own report from earlier this year accepts that many of the policies introduced to improve working conditions will increase operating costs for businesses,” said VFI CEO Pat Crotty. He added that for pubs to survive, members needed a reduction in VAT along with a reduction in excise duty. “What’s worse, the minor supports government is offering are nearly useless when you consider the soaring cost of doing business. Pubs are already closing their doors and this Budget will accelerate that trend.”
“The
Budget is a disaster for our sector. We have been clear with the government about the immense pressure pubs are under, yet they have failed to deliver any meaningful support”
Pat Crotty, CEO,
VFI
“Our industry is facing a crisis, with closures set to continue in the coming months”
Adrian Cummins, Chief Executive, RAI
RAI Chief Executive Adrian Cummins has stated the industry believes Budget 2025 failed abysmally to protect the sector. “Our industry is facing a crisis, with closures set to continue in the coming months. With the upcoming election campaign, now is the time to make our voices heard by engaging with local TDs. We urge all restaurant, café and food-led businesses to reach out to their local TDs. Together, we must continue to fight for the future of our industry,” he said. Reducing the VAT rate would, he said, have saved about 1000 restaurants that may be forced to close their doors over the weeks and months ahead. “It’s important to point out that we have a great opportunity to get our voice heard right up to and during the election. I urge restaurant owners to pick up their phone and ring their local TD and explain why it’s so difficult to run a restaurant at the moment. Additionally, the grant proposed by the government is chicken feed; it’s not going to plug the gap in terms of the big ticket items facing the industry.”
Speaking on Tipp FM, Taoiseach Simon Harris said he was conscious that the cost base for small hospitality businesses is significant. He added that he’s not ruling out a return to the issue of VAT9 in the future as it’s something that needs to be kept under constant review. For now though, hospitality businesses across the country will be wondering how they’ll keep their doors open in 2024 and beyond.
"It’s time to re-evaluate and see how I can make my life a little bit easier"
AIDAN MCGRATH is taking time to reflect on his next move
There’s an old phrase that goes, “There is nothing permanent except change”. Change is hard, especially for a chef like Aidan McGrath who has spent the best part of 40 years cooking in kitchens. But that’s what the Wild Honey Inn owner is thinking about these days. With his debut cookbook just out, Aidan is enjoying the fruits of his labour, along with his evenings outside the kitchen. “It’s nice to be off for once. We’ve made other changes this year too – we decided not to open the pub and instead, we’re focusing on the guesthouse and on private groups. It’s time to re-evaluate and see how I can make my life a little bit easier.” Making his life easier involves taking a step back in the kitchen and passing the reins onto someone else. After four decades, how difficult a process will that be? “I think it’ll be nice to hand over to somebody else and see how they manage things. I’d still be there in an advisory capacity but I think it’s time to let someone else put their stamp on the place.”
For any chef, getting the chance to “put their stamp” on a restaurant like Wild Honey Inn would be a huge coup. It might also be a bit daunting. Ireland’s first pub with a Michelin star, Wild Honey Inn dishes up the kind of food Aidan and his partner Kate wanted to eat when they first moved back to Ireland from London in 1992. In France, Michelin star chefs in small, backstreet restaurants were utilising fresh, seasonal ingredients to create different menus each day. “I didn’t know it was trendy or fashionable at the time. It was just something I thought I’d like to replicate in a pub and that’s what sowed the seed for Wild Honey Inn.”
In the early 90’s, Ireland was a strange place when it came to food. Several chefs of Aidan’s ilk were returning home, so it was up to them to spark change in the Irish food scene. The big name suppliers of today weren’t in business yet and sourcing the ingredients Aidan used in London was a difficult task. “When I left Ireland people were serving egg mayonnaise and when I came back, it was still egg mayonnaise on the menu. In 10 years, the food scene hadn’t evolved at all. It was the suppliers side of things that really needed to change and it did, albeit slowly. I remember the Geary family who owned Pallas Foods, they really listened to what chefs were saying at the time. So did Marc Amand who set up La Rousse Foods. I was one of his first customers on the west coast. He was driving the van at the time and he’d come and talk to people like me and then go away and source what we needed.”
Shows like Gourmet Ireland on BBC1, which also featured Aidan, played a part in highlighting the Irish suppliers that were helping shape a new Irish food scene, along with the restaurants that were using their produce. “I think those shows did a lot for food tourism at the time. They were teaching people about Irish produce and showing that actually, we have some of the best ingredients in the world.” Educating people about different foods and winning them over took time. “We were bringing people along with us slowly. You couldn’t just throw stuff on the menu and call it all these exotic foreign names like tian of crab. You’d call it a seafood cocktail and then in about three weeks, you’d change it to tian of crab. If you were asked you’d just say, that’s what you had last time and they’d be fine with it.”
Aidan had taken a punt on doing something different, something that other Irish pubs wouldn’t have considered at the time. And it worked. Specials were written on mirrors as opposed to blackboards and they changed throughout a service. “That’s something other chefs used to constantly say to me. They’d ask, how do you keep changing the menu, how do you change dishes mid-service?” Aidan was simply cooking with the ingredients he had to hand in the kitchen, a practice taken for granted today but not so much back in 2009. “We were making dishes up as we went along. In 2010, we got our first Michelin Bib Gourmand and it was 2018 when we got our Michelin star.”
That level of success was hard won – 20 hour days and a determination to serve next level, classic dishes with a modern twist. “It was very enjoyable, but a huge amount of work. That’s probably why it’s time to take a step back.” The new cookbook
“We were making dishes up as we went along. In 2010, we got our first Michelin Bib Gourmand and it was 2018 when we got our Michelin star”
– Wild Honey Inn: An Irish Dining Pub – is part of that re-evaluation. A new challenge and an opportunity to tell the tale of the Wild Honey journey so far. The boxed, cloth-bound book was two years in the making, although the idea and recipes were in Aidan’s head for far longer. “A couple of people had mentioned that maybe I should do a cookbook and strangely enough, a staff member who was working with me at the time – Jeltje Zijlstra – was also in publishing. She asked me if I had ever thought about writing a book and actually ended up giving me a hand with it – she typed as I dictated. I don’t type that fast; if it was up to me to type the book from scratch, it still wouldn’t be published.” Testing the recipes, organising the photography and synopsising his own lengthy career took a couple of years but it was a period he enjoyed. “It wasn’t particularly stressful. I found it quite therapeutic and obviously I had a lot of help. People seem to like it so I’m very happy about that.” People definitely like it; the cookbook is up for an award in the Gourmand 2024 World Cookbook Awards in the ‘Hotels’ category. “I’m thrilled. Writing the book was a real labour of love so for a respected panel of judges to have named it one of the best books in the world for 2024 is beyond our dreams.”
Less time in the kitchen means more time to consider new endeavours. For a while now, Aidan has been involved in consultancy work in Ireland, offering advice to start-ups and existing hospitality businesses. It's a bespoke service, designed specifically for each business in need of a refit or simply a menu revamp. That work will continue and meanwhile, a cookery school might be on the cards or maybe a daytime service that caters
“I never had to worry about other aspects of the business. I knew they were well looked after. At the end of it all, my success is down to Kate”
to tourists along the Wild Atlantic Way. For now, Aidan doesn’t want to pigeonhole himself into any one thing. “People have asked me so many times about doing cookery classes so that’s an option. I’m also thinking about doing an upmarket daytime lunch service; we get a lot of tourists cold calling and looking for lunch. We’re well located to take advantage of that market. There are lots of possibilities that could make life a bit easier, while staying in the hospitality industry.”
Hard work has gotten Aidan and Kate to where they are today. “It has but actually, I’ve never thought of it as work. I always saw it as more of a hobby. I’ve always believed too that it’s better to stop what you’re doing while you still enjoy it, rather than carry on and end up hating it. In this business, the main thing is you’ve got to enjoy it and work very hard at it. You’ve also got to lead by example. You can’t set up the business and then be out golfing and hope that everything is going to run well in your absence.” With Kate as his partner, with her hard work and due diligence, Aidan was able to put all his focus into the kitchen. “I never had to worry about other aspects of the business. I knew they were well looked after. At the end of it all, my success is down to Kate.”
For businesses interested in Aidan's consultancy service, he can be contacted at https://www.wildhoneyinn.com/contact/
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Two members of the Virgin Media Business Backing Business community chat about their growth plans, the challenges of running a small business and the power of connection
In September 2019 Shannon Forrest and Michelin Star trained Chef Declan Malone set up Rívesci, offering cooked from scratch dishes from their 1976 vintage caravan. Business was good and the future was looking bright, but then Covid struck. “When everyone else was opening a food truck during the pandemic, we closed ours and took a different route. We decided to put some elements of our menu into jars and try to sell them to keep our business going,” says Shannon. Not only did they sell, but the business began to grow. After participating in the SuperValu Food Academy, Rívesci products were soon being sold in independent and SuperValu stores around the country. “We moved from our home kitchen to a commercial kitchen in Thurles and now we’re based in Clonmel. We supply around 150 independent shops across the country and we have our own little coffee shop out the front of our main kitchen.”
Business is good, with three new products hitting the shelves this year, taking the range up to seven. Rívesci is part of Lidl’s Kickstart promotion which has, says Shannon, been a massive boost for the business. In 2020, the brand also won the 3 Star Great Taste Award for its Cashew Chilli Crush and in 2021, it won the 1 Star Great Taste Award for its Red Onion Marmalade with Spiced Port. Just recently at the Blas na hÉireann awards, Rivesci won Gold, Best in Tipperary, Best in Munster and overall Supreme Champion 2024 for its Smoked Chilli Oil. “Things are going very well. It’s manageable, sustainable growth. We don’t want to get too big for our boots too quickly.”
About four years ago, Rívesci won a competition with Virgin Media’s Backing Business initiative. The competition included free broadband for a year and a complete overhaul of the Rívesci website. “Virgin Media has also supported us in any way they can and promoted our products across different channels. Our jars have featured on Ireland AM when the presenter showcased all five winners. You can’t buy that type of exposure. I also got the chance to share my journey with other entrepreneurs at various events organised by Virgin Media Business.” After appearing on Ireland AM, two shops contacted Shannon about stocking their range that very morning. “Ireland is such a small place so we very quickly got our name out there and into rooms with influential people. For a small, grassroots business like ours to be on national television was just amazing.”
just because your business isn’t in the millions of euros yet, your opinion or advice isn’t as valued as much as others but in actual fact, it is. It’s great to have that community to lean on and ask for advice.”
Rívesci is just about to take on two more part-time employees, taking its staff number to seven. “You get to the point when you realise you can only continue to grow if there’s more of you. For a long time it was just the two of us and we found it difficult to push on to the next level. We’re taking on new staff so we can grow our footprint in Ireland, source a distributor and increase our presence in independent stores across Ireland. Long term, our plan is to export the range but we want to ensure we have a better foothold in our home market first before we spread our wings.”
To contact Rívesci, go to www.rivesci.ie
“When everyone else was opening a food truck during the pandemic, we closed ours and took a different route”
Being part of the Virgin Media Business Backing Business community also gives Rívesci a chance to network with like-minded businesses. “They share their knowledge with us and vice versa. Sometimes you feel that
After moving back to Letterkenny from Dublin eight years ago, Jane McCormack and her sister decided it was time for something completely different. “I was working as a personal shopper in House of Fraser at the time and my sister rang to say she had been at this fabulous place on the beach at Marble Hill that served great coffee. We had talked before about how people are sick of the chainstore coffee houses and that they want an experience and a story, not just a hot drink. She said to me, why don’t we buy a little caravan or a van, you can make your pancakes and I’ll do the coffee.” With a €600 loan from their mother, the sisters bought a secondhand vintage caravan which their brother renovated and brought it to Glenveagh National Park. From the off, they had a queue of customers at their door. “I think the novelty of the caravan drew people in. It was also a good summer weather-wise and that definitely helped. During the winter, we set up a café in a store in Letterkenny. We were there for a time before Maria decided to go back out in the caravan and I got the opportunity to open a café in the Wild Atlantic Camp in Creeslough. I’ve been there since 2018 and it’s been amazing.”
The Happy Camper has made a name for itself thanks to a reasonably priced menu, cheerful staff and above all, delicious pancakes. “My pancakes are kind of famous now! I’m always asked for my recipe but I always say, I’d have to murder or marry you before telling you. They’re served whatever way the customer wants them and we always say if you’re peckish have two, if you’re hungry, three, if you’re starving, four and if you’re brave, five, but you’re on your own.”
“The caravan was the exact same model as the one that appeared on Father Ted. We didn’t realise until people started saying it to us”
Most of the menu items are named after a character from Father Ted. “The caravan was the exact same model as the one that appeared on Father Ted. We didn’t realise until people started saying it to us. So our pancakes are named the Dougal, Ted, Jack, Craggy and Mrs Doyle. The ‘Ted’ is sausage and bacon cooked into two pancakes, sandwiched with a fried egg and cheese and the ‘Mrs Doyle’ is the sweet one.”
Being part of the Virgin Media Business Backing Business Community helps members connect with likeminded businesses and gain advice on issues affecting them. For Jane, rising costs is the biggest challenge. “The VAT increase has been very difficult. For me, it means that €15 out of every €100 is gone straightaway. The price of ingredients has also gone up; my flour went up from about €18 for 25kg to €27. When you tell someone you run your own business, I think they immediately assume you must be making a fortune and if you’re not, you automatically feel like a failure. I’m making a living out of doing something I love; it’s amazing to be able to say that.”
Maintaining an affordable menu despite rising costs is a top priority, says Jane. “A lot of my customers are families so my kids offering consists of a big pancake with three toppings and a drink. It costs €4 and people say to me, you should be charging more for it and I know I could, but could a parent come in with say four kids and still afford to eat themselves? There’s a lot that can’t. I’m just trying to show my appreciation for my customers and not take advantage.”
To contact Happy Camper Cafe, go www.facebook.com/ thehappycampercafe or call 086 601 4283
To become a customer and join our FREE Backing Business community today, call Virgin Media Business now on 1800 940 264 to discuss how we can Back your Business.
Wellness offerings allow hotels to encourage greater guest loyalty and distinguish themselves in a crowded market, writes D
ONAGH DAVERN
The area of wellness has become an integral part of the hotel sector and has experienced enormous growth. There is no doubt that hospitality plays a vital role in enhancing both physical and mental wellbeing and this is supported by Hilton’s 2023 report on emerging trends in the sector, which stated that 50% of travellers would like to address their physical or mental wellness while travelling. The sector is unique in its ability to positively influence the health behaviours of its clients through their nutrition, the amount of physical activity they undertake and the quality of their sleep while staying in a hotel. Aside from properties offering pools, spas and gyms, simple initiatives such as offering fresher ingredients on menus, attention to food allergies and the provision of hotel bikes and jogging routes, can add to the wellness offering for a hotel.
Some hotels roll out a “jogger’s trolley” in the morning, stocked with distance indicated route maps, water bottles and towels to facilitate those who want to go for a run in the morning. For those properties who really want to take guest wellness seriously, a “Wellness Concierge” might be on offer, with information on suitable walking routes, hotel wellness facilities, local group exercise facilities and the contact number for the best personal trainer in the area that can put guests through their paces.
In the room, where many guests spend the majority of their time while at the hotel, options such as blackout curtains, soothing music, pillow menus, streaming of fitness classes on the TV and a choice of soothing and calming scents may be offered to clients to attain the best night’s sleep possible while away from the comforts of their own home. Organising a local guide to bring customers on scenic hiking routes or being able to access meditation or a group jog are other wellness activities which customers may appreciate.
In the hotel gym, the opportunity for overnight guests to join spinning, yoga or pilates classes allows customers to maintain their fitness regime. For an overnight guest, being able to order their preferred protein shake may also be important.
In larger or resort type properties, the wellness offering may already be comprehensive. Individual health-screening, scheduled activities and therapies and nutritional planning may all be on offer to guests. Post-pandemic, mental health is also a priority and there is a growing awareness amongst customers of their overall health and wellbeing. Hoteliers are acknowledging this by offering products and services, which are responding to the consumer’s greater need
for wellbeing. The phrase ‘Wellness Tourism’ is one which many hoteliers are now using as consumers seek to improve their mental, physical and even spiritual selves. There is a renewed emphasis on activities such as exercise, beauty treatments, relaxation, meditation and healthy eating. Pampering and healing, along with workshops to improve consumers’ overall wellness, are being offered by more and more hotels.
Hotel spas have expanded from simply offering facial and body treatments to the provision of yoga classes, water-based treatments, hammam experiences, tai chi and healing treatments. Some have even expanded to incorporate medical care into their facilities from qualified experts.
We can learn from our hotel colleagues in countries such as Switzerland and Hungary that wellness and its services can have a very positive effect on our business. Looking forward, hotels may follow the path of their Japanese counterparts in offering immersive forest bathing rituals and other forms of “forest wellness” – Cent Parcs in Longford has already incorporated some aspects of forest wellness into its spa with a Forest Awakening area and experience rooms including Forest Glade, Alpine Steam, the Rain Forest Shower and the Forest Rain Walk. In award-winning spa resorts such as Galgorm in Co Antrim, the River Maine plays an important role in its overall wellness offering, with the sound of its rapids soothing the minds of those using its outdoor hot-tubs, or its River House fitted with infrared heated loungers overlooking the river. In its sister property, The Rabbit in Templepatrick, clay rituals are on offer in private rooms with large glass windows overlooking a serene lake. In Switzerland’s world renowned Beau Rivage Hotel, health check-ups, sleep management and the development of a bespoke stress management programme, are all on offer to overnight guests.
50% OF TRAVELLERS WOULD LIKE TO ADDRESS THEIR PHYSICAL OR MENTAL WELLNESS WHILE TRAVELLING
Leading international hotel company Accor recently launched its first holistic wellness offering, The Purist, at the 5 Star Cures Marines Hotel & Spa Trouville in France. The proposition is an exclusive luxury wellness concept which adds to the traditional thalassotherapy experience through a combination of care, movement, nutrition and sleep. Offering tailored skincare and wellness services, both outdoor and indoor courses in mindful breathing, posture, body strength and endurance, healthy and delicious dining options and a tailored light therapy system to wake guests each morning, this approach is all-encompassing for guests of the hotel.
For hotel customers, the ability to maintain their personal wellbeing choices while travelling away from home may be the factor when choosing to book one hotel over another. The introduction of new wellness experiences may be a game-changer in terms of gaining competitive advantage, at a time when the uncertainty and instability of recent years has increased people’s stress. By assisting guests to maintain their health and wellbeing, it will allow hotels to encourage greater guest loyalty and integrate wellness as a key part of the guest experience, thereby distinguishing their hotel and setting it apart in a crowded marketplace.
Dr Donagh Davern is a Lecturer at Munster Technological University and a former Hotel General Manager
My most memorable meal happened in 2012 while I was a college student. I had moved to London to study to become a chef and my 21st birthday happened to fall the day before a fairly big exam for my class. As a result of this, my friends and classmates were all eager to stay home that night to study, as was I. My older
“As a budding chef, the introduction to small plates bursting with flavour was revolutionary”
brother lived in London at the time and when he realised that I would be spending my 21st birthday alone, he decided to organise a dinner just for the two of us. He booked Hakkasan, a Cantonese restaurant that was the first Chinese restaurant in Britain to be awarded a Michelin Star.
This was my first ever experience of a Michelin star restaurant and it blew me away. The restaurant was dark, with loud music, something that we now take for granted in new restaurants, but was surprising to me at the time. I learned that evening that fine dining didn’t have to mean stuffy, or white tablecloths. We chose a 7 course tasting menu with matching cocktails which included lobster, caviar and soft shell crab. As a budding chef, the introduction to small plates bursting with flavour was revolutionary, as was the ability of this restaurant to create cocktails that somehow made this phenomenal food taste even better.
There are so many reasons that this meal stands out to me as my most memorable. I have experienced Michelin star meals and tasting menus with matching cocktails a few times since, but none have had the lasting impact that this meal had on me as a culinary student. This meal cemented in my mind that I wanted to create experiences like this for others. It is also a meal that reminds me of the generosity of my family, that there was no possibility of me spending my birthday alone in my student accommodation. When I think of how food can bring joy to life, this is one of the first experiences that I think of. And yes, I did pass the exam!
Orna Larkin is the Executive Pastry Chef at InterContinental Dublin
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