ISSUE 1 2021
Survive
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Paul Kelly, CEO on Fáilte Ireland’s plans to support the sector in 2021 and beyond
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Contents ISSUE 11 2021
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IN THIS ISSUE
“We will be rolling out new employee, business and sector supports on areas such as strategy and leadership, finance and cost efficiency, food and beverage innovation and service excellence to drive performance and help the industry navigate the challenges they are facing” Paul Kelly, CEO, Fáilte Ireland
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CITY TOURISM FEELS COVID EFFECTS OVER REGIONAL
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IN CONVERSATION WITH… JUMOKE AKINTOLA
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A new report shows that Dublin city occupancy is less than half that of regional hotels over the peak summer period
The chef and co-owner of The Beach House talks about trusting your gut and swapping Dublin for Tramore
OUTSIDE THE BOX Lockdown is encouraging restaurateurs and chefs across the country to get creative with their spare time
ALL ABOARD A complete refurbishment at the Station House Hotel in Kilmessan, County Meath, has placed the hotel in an excellent position for when restrictions ease
REGULARS
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NEWS
BOOKSHELF
A QUICK CHAT
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Editor: Denise Maguire Creative Director: Jane Matthews Art Director: Áine Duffy Designer: James Moore Stock Photography iStock Infographics: www.flaticon.com Production: Ciara Murray Sales Director: Trish Murphy Managing Director: Gerry Tynan Chairman: Diarmaid Lennon
Published by: Ashville Media, Unit 55 Park West Road, Park West Industrial Estate, Dublin 12, D12 X9F9. Tel: (01) 432 2200 ISSN: 0332-4400 All rights reserved. Every care has been taken to ensure that the information contained in this magazine is accurate. The publishers cannot, however, accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Reproduction by any means in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher is prohibited. © Ashville Media Group 2021. All discounts, promotions and competitions contained in this magazine are run independently of Hotel & Catering Review. The promoter/advertiser is responsible for honouring the prize.
Editor’s View Welcome to issue 1 of Hotel & Catering Review 2021 Our cover story for this issue focuses on the supports that Fáilte Ireland has made available to the tourism sector to survive and recover from the effects of Covid-19. Those supports are varied and include areas like strategy and leadership, food and beverage innovation, service excellence and finance and cost efficiency. Fáilte Ireland CEO Paul Kelly also talks about the €55 million Tourism Business Continuity Scheme, set up to support businesses that were not eligible for the Covid Restrictions Support Scheme (CRSS) payment or previous Fáilte Ireland continuity grant schemes. The first phase of the scheme runs until the 8th of March and is open to businesses including outdoor activity providers, visitor attractions not eligible for CRSS, caravan and camping providers registered with Fáilte Ireland and cruise hire companies. These supports will, says Paul, go some way to helping businesses weather the current lockdown and what looks to be another tough year. With a vaccine rollout currently underway, there are reasons to be hopeful and although Covid-19 outweighs previous crises, it will says Paul hopefully be a case of “the deeper the crisis, the stronger the recovery and the higher the post-crisis peak.” Elsewhere in this issue we catch up with chefs Joyce Timmins, Chad Byrne and JP McMahon to find out what they’ve been up to during lockdown. We also take a look at the newly refurbished Station House Hotel in Kilmessan, Co Meath and speak to manager Suzanne Slattery about the extensive renovations that have taken place at the historic building. As always, there’s plenty to enjoy in this issue. If you have any thoughts or opinions on this month’s content, please do drop us a line
Editor: Denise Maguire Email: denise.maguire@ ashvillemediagroup.com
Denise Maguire www.hotelandcateringreview.ie | info@hotelandcateringreview.ie @HC_Review | facebook.com/hotelandcateringreview
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Partner PROFILE
Bewley’s - celebrating 25 years
of Fairtrade in Ireland
BEWLEY’S CELEBRATES 25 YEARS OF FAIRTRADE AS PART OF FAIRTRADE FORTNIGHT
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• Bewley’s Gold Roast Ground Coffee – The famous Bewley’s signature roast, medium roasted with a smooth, caramelised sweetness and full-bodied. • Bewley’s Indulgent Hot Chocolate – Bewley’s delectable hot chocolate, crafted using only the finest quality Fairtrade cocoa beans
ewley’s Celebrates 25 Years of Fairtrade as part of Fairtrade Fortnight 22nd February – 7th March Fairtrade product collection now available on Bewley’s online store • Bewley’s has been 100% Fairtrade since 2017 • Bewley’s contributes to approximately half of all Fairtrade premiums in Ireland • ‘1 in 2’ Fairtrade coffees in Ireland is Bewley’s coffee Bewley’s, Ireland’s leading coffee and tea company, is celebrating 25 years of Fairtrade coffee as part of Fairtrade Fortnight. Bewley’s was the first company in Ireland to introduce Fairtrade produce to the country and to mark 25 years of Fairtrade in Ireland has launched the Fairtrade Collection. The collection is available as part of Fairtrade Fortnight 2021, taking place February 22nd – March 7th. Fairtrade Fortnight is an annual event which sees hundreds of individuals, companies and supporters of Fairtrade in Ireland come together to increase awareness of Fairtrade products and build public understanding around ethical sourcing. The aim of Fairtrade Fortnight 2021 is to highlight the growing challenges that climate change brings to farmers and workers in the communities Fairtrade works with. When a product carries the Fairtrade mark it assures customers that it was produced according to international Fairtrade standards. These standards ensure Fairtrade products are socially and economically fair and environmentally responsible. Bewley’s has made a global impact on Fairtrade coffee, contributing to 1.5% of global Fairtrade coffee premiums and approximately half of Fairtrade premiums in Ireland. Fairtrade premiums provide
workers and farmers with revenue that accumulates in a communal fund. This fund can be used to improve social, economic, and environmental conditions for all Fairtrade workers. The Bewley’s Fairtrade Collection features a variety of coffee roasts and hot chocolate from Bewley’s global suppliers with products sourced ethically and made with the environment in mind. The Fairtrade Collection is available for €13.95 via the Bewley’s online store at www.bewleys.com and includes: • Bewley’s Special Blend Fairtrade Tea 80s – An elegant Fairtrade tea with a distinctive, rich flavour, sourced from a single tea garden on the slopes of Mount Kenya • Bewley’s Americano Coffee Capsules – 100% compostable coffee capsules made with Brazil sourced beans and a strong blend of Colombian & Ethiopian coffee, adding a subtle smoky note. Ideal for a longer smooth American style coffee.
A company that understands the importance of being ethical and responsible, Bewley’s’ work in Fairtrade is supported by its deep values in sustainability, conducting business in a way that improves the health of the planet and the lives of all those involved in the beanto-cup process. Commenting Managing Director of Bewley’s Ireland & UK, Jason Doyle said, “We are very proud of our history of being at the forefront of Fairtrade in Ireland, from bringing the first Irish Fairtrade produce to market in 1996 to achieving 100% Fairtrade since 2017. At Bewley’s we are passionate about Fairtrade and with COVID-19 having had a major impact on the lives of coffee farmers and their families, it’s now more important than ever before to show support. Since 2018, Bewley’s has contributed to €2.6 million in Fairtrade premiums and by supporting campaigns like Fairtrade Fortnight we want to ensure Fairtrade is top of mind for our operators and customers throughout the country”. Fairtrade works with a range of stakeholders and is half owned by farmers and workers representatives. With a greater voice, farmers and workers have a stronger say in decision-making on overall strategy, use of resources, prices, premiums, and standards setting. To learn more about Bewley’s work in Fairtrade Fortnight please visit www.fairtrade.ie The Bewley’s Fairtrade Collection is available for €13.95 via Bewley’s online store at www.bewley.com
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News
News Your monthly round-up…
NEW FINANCIAL SUPPORTS FOR BUSINESSES NOT ELIGIBLE FOR CRSS The government is planning to launch a new financial support scheme for businesses that have seen their revenues devastated by Covid-19 restrictions but don’t qualify for the Covid Restrictions Support Scheme (CRSS). The CRSS is available to businesses that were required to prohibit or considerably restrict customers from accessing their business premises as part of Covid-19 restrictions. Speaking to The Irish Times, Tánaiste and Minister for Enterprise, Trade and Employment Leo Varadkar also confirmed that the government plans to extend the CRSS, Employment Wage Subsidy Scheme (EWSS) and the commercial rates waiver beyond the
end of the first quarter of this year to continue to support companies impacted by Covid restrictions. On the new support scheme for companies not eligible for CRSS, he said: “We’re fine-tuning the details at the moment. Essentially, it won’t help every company but there are companies that have seen a 75% or more reduction in turnover but who don’t qualify for CRSS. Their premises didn’t close by legal order because it wasn’t open to the public. You’re talking about wholesale caterers, people with lock-ups and so forth. It will be run by my department and local authorities.” He added that it would operate as a grant rather than a tax credit, as applies to the CRSS scheme.
WALSH WHISKEY AWARDS ANNUAL BURSARY TO IT CARLOW STUDENT
Bernard Walsh of Walsh Whiskey, pictured with the 3rd Annual Walsh Whiskey Bursary cheque for €1,000
Stephen Foster, a 2nd year brewing and distilling undergraduate at Institute of Technology Carlow from Gorey in County Wexford, is the third recipient of the annual Walsh Whiskey €1,000 bursary. The prize is awarded by Walsh Whiskey to the student with the highest 1st year grades in the Bachelor of Science in Brewing and Distilling course at Institute of Technology Carlow. The brewing and distilling programme at IT Carlow was the first of its kind in Ireland when initiated in 2017.
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HOTELIERS WELCOME FÁILTE IRELAND 2021 PLANS The Irish Hotels Federation (IHF) has welcomed the action plan for 2021 unveiled by Fáilte Ireland together with assurances given by Catherine Martin, Minister for Tourism, Culture, Arts, Gaeltacht, Sport and Media that the government is continuing to assess the impact of the Covid-19 pandemic on the economy and ensure that appropriate supports are in place. IHF Chief Executive, Tim Fenn, said that the industry is facing another very challenging year, with government business and employment supports fundamental to the survival of tourism. “The roll-out of the vaccines is a chink of light but the road to recovery for Irish
tourism will take time. The tourism and hospitality industry, Ireland’s largest indigenous employer, has been hardest hit by the pandemic restrictions with some 160,000 jobs lost across the country last year. “As an industry, we are focused on restoring these livelihoods and protecting the remaining jobs that the industry still supports. The best way to ensure this is to safeguard the businesses and ensure their survival. Last year, the hotel sector alone experienced a €2.6 billion drop in revenues compared to 2019, which gives some sense of the pressure that tourism businesses are under.” Fenn welcomed Fáilte Ireland’s plans, including a variety of marketing campaigns, aimed at growing and developing the domestic market. “Home grown tourism was vital to Irish
tourism last year. However, with over 70% of tourism revenue in recent years coming from overseas visitors, it was never going to replace the lost revenue that followed the collapse of that market. When it is safe, international travel will resume and the overseas market will recover, but until then Irish tourism is solely reliant on the domestic market. As a sector we will do everything we can to provide people with safe, relaxing and enjoyable breaks when travel restrictions are lifted.” He added that Fáilte Ireland’s plans for training and development are also very welcome, as we work to maintain Ireland’s longstanding global reputation as a tourism destination. “Tourism business teams, including those from across the hotel sector, are critical to that, ensuring the consistent delivery of a quality product.”
APPOINTMENT The K Club has announced the appointment of Alan Vallely as Director of Food and Beverage. Bringing almost 20 years’ experience in the luxury hospitality industry to his new role, Alan joins the team from Mount Juliet Estate, where he was Hotel Manager for almost two years. Alan will be responsible for overseeing all aspects of the property’s food and beverage concepts and operations, including the new all-day dining venue, The Palmer. Philip Brazil has also been appointed to the role of Executive Chef at the five-star resort. Philip has worked at Castle Leslie Estate, Tinakilly Country House Hotel in Wicklow, The Clarence Hotel, Aghadoe Heights Hotel, Cork’s Clarion Hotel, Sheen Falls Lodge and Knockranny House Hotel in Westport.
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Powerscourt Distillery’s Master Distiller, Noel Sweeney
News
DAVID BANAGHAN, CO-FOUNDER OF OCCUPOP, ON THE IMPACT OF COVID-19 RESTRICTIONS ON RECRUITMENT IN THE HOSPITALITY INDUSTRY How are repeated lockdowns affecting the sector?
We were surprised with the high recruitment levels in the hospitality sector last year although this all stemmed from repeated lockdowns as our data shows the majority of recruitment began when hospitality reopened after each lockdown. With numerous operational challenges, it was unfortunate that staffing was an issue for hospitality last year but since staff were out of work with no end in sight, some decided to change into industries like healthcare amd logistics. Are there specific age-groups in the hospitality sector most affected by the pandemic?
Occupop’s Employer benchmark report in Q3 last year showed that some of the top reasons staff did not return to work were health concerns (27.5%) and childcare issues/family issues (17.5%). It's evident people in high-risk categories and parents with young children were affected with the return to work along with junior team members as many companies focused on keeping more senior staff employed during the pandemic. Which jobs are seeing the most applicants in an otherwise protracted industry?
Food & Beverage remains the top performer in terms of applications per job, with an increase of 40% on average. Previously challenging roles like chefs are also seeing an increase, with 31% more candidates applying per job compared to 2019. Where are hospitality businesses sourcing their new hires?
POWERSCOURT DISTILLERY SCORES HAT TRICK AT ICONS OF IRISH WHISKEY AWARDS Powerscourt Distillery’s Master Distiller Noel Sweeney has been awarded the Irish Icons of Whiskey Master Distiller and Blender award for 2021. The Icons of Whisky Awards are a celebration of the years of hard work that go into every bottle. The honour follows hot on the heels of his recent award for his outstanding contribution to the Irish whiskey industry at the Irish Whiskey Association’s Chairman’s Awards last November. Two new European distributors have also been announced for the brand – BBC Spirits in France and Munros in Belgium.
Our data shows that job boards are the main source of new hires, with job sites like Indeed performing very well. We are seeing a growing trend in social media recruiting on platforms like Instagram, Facebook and Linkedin and a growth in the use of videos and blogs to show prospective candidates what it’s like to work in hospitality businesses. What are the pros and cons of hiring new candidates virtually?
Virtual interviewing brings opportunities and challenges but when face to face interviews return, I think companies will have learned a lot from the experience and will continue to have virtual as part of their process. The main benefit of virtual interviewing is its more time efficient from both the company and candidate side. On the other hand, one negative aspect is that in a customer facing industry like hospitality, soft skills are very important and this can be difficult to qualify on virtual interviews so many companies have now opted to include psychometric tests as part of the interview process. How does Occupop work?
Occupop’s applicant tracking system helps hospitality businesses manage the full recruitment process on one easy to use platform. This results in more direct applicants with our job posting engine and less time spent coordinating the process internally with management features that help you shortlist, interview and hire applicants quickly.
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Noel Anderson, Managing Director of Lemon & Duke
VICTORY FOR PUBLICANS IN HIGH COURT The High Court’s decision in favour of four publicans in their business interruption cover case against FBD has been welcomed by the industry. The four test actions were taken by Dublin bars Aberken, trading as Sinnotts Bar; Hyper Trust Ltd, trading as the Leopardstown Inn; Inn on Hibernian Way Ltd, trading as Lemon & Duke; and Leinster Overview Concepts Ltd, the owner of Sean’s Bar in Athlone, Co Westmeath.
Commenting on the landmark decision, Noel Anderson, Managing Director of Lemon & Duke, said the decision represents vindication for businesses dependent on the outcome of this action. “It should never have come to this. I specifically had taken out a business interruption policy to protect us against Covid-19 and its potential impact on our business. As the court heard during the trial, this was acknowledged in writing by FBD.” He added that in order to have his claim settled, he was forced to go through 10 months of financial uncertainty, additional risk and extensive stress and strain. “We would encourage FBD and other insurance providers to reflect on the outcome of this case and where valid business interruption policies exist, we hope they will be forthcoming in making payments to the relevant pubs and other businesses impacted as they fight for their survival.” Other publicans that took out business interruption policies are now expected to be compensated for the losses they incurred by the pandemic.
PAUL LANE ON THE BEAUTY AND SIMPLICITY OF MACKEREL An ingredient that I really love to use at The River Club is mackerel. Mackerel, in my opinion, is one of the most under-rated fish ever. It’s not only one of the only sustainable fish left in our waters but is a fish that is at its best when cooked very simply, in a pan with creamery butter, a squeeze of lemon juice and some chopped dill. At The River Club, our mackerel comes from Ballycotton Seafood, but of course the best way to ensure freshness if you don’t have access to an artisan fishmonger is to brave the pier and catch it yourself. Mackerel is a fish that needs to be served very soon after it has been caught but a recipe we use here that will keep your mackerel for up to a week is a simple mackerel pate, served on toast which makes a great canapé or starter, especially when it's complemented with either pickled cucumber or beetroot. It's also delicious with other seafood as part of a platter.
Ingredients:
BULMERS IRELAND LAUNCHES SEVEN SUMMITS HARD SELTZER Bulmers Ireland has launched Seven Summits, Ireland’s first naturally produced hard seltzer. Available in three flavours, Seven Summits is produced in association with the Whitewater Brewing Company, one of Ireland’s leading craft breweries. The new brand is produced in small batches using hand-crafted alcohol, with natural flavourings and sparkle added through a natural brewing process.
• • • • • •
4 medium mackerel fillets 80 grams softened creamery butter 3 tbsp crème fraiche 1 tsp horseradish Squeeze of lemon juice Salt and pepper to taste
Method: • Lightly poach mackerel fillets. • Remove from cooking liquid and chill. Once cool, remove flesh from skin and place flesh in a bowl. • Combine all other ingredients with a fork until the mackerel has broken up into fine strands. • The mixture should have the consistency to quenelle; if it is to dry just add a little more crème fraiche. • Chill for at least 30 minutes before serving on toast with some pickled cucumber, beetroot or fresh dill. Paul Lane is Executive Head Chef at The River Club, Cork
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LOVE UNDER LOCKDOWN LOOKING GOOD, SAYS IRELANDHOTELS.COM Despite the challenges of the past 12 months, 80% of people feel the pandemic has strengthened their relationship with their partner. That’s according to a survey compiled by Irelandhotels.com as part of its Go Anywhere Gift Card. The survey found that although confined together for months, nine out of 10 people would still choose to have a romantic night away with their partner over a fun break away with friends. In addition, 70% of those surveyed revealed they will mark Valentine's Day with their loved ones when restrictions are lifted. Launched late last year by the Irish Hotels Federation (IHF) and supported by Fáilte Ireland, the Go Anywhere Gift Card is valid for use in 350 hotels and guest houses across Ireland. IHF President Elaina Fitzgerald Kane said: “Even in these lockdown times, it is so uplifting to see the high value being placed on romantic breaks in Irish hotels and guesthouses throughout Ireland as part of Valentine's celebrations, albeit in vouchers for breaks to be taken at a later stage this year.” Participants in the survey believe romantic trips away are in sight, with eight out of 10 people saying they’d opt for a night away outside of their home county if given the choice. “While restrictions remain in place for Valentine’s, we hope that couples will choose a Go Anywhere Gift Card as a promise to one another that ‘this too shall pass’ and we will be able to enjoy breaks away together again in the not-too-distant future,” Elaina Fitzgerald Kane said.
ORDERING DIRECTLY FROM RESTAURANTS NOW AN OPTION WITH DELIVEROO Deliveroo has rolled out a solution that allows customers to order food delivery directly from restaurant websites, as well as through the delivery service’s app. The company has 1,800 Irish restaurants on its books and said its Signature solution would help restaurants to boost revenues by allowing them to deliver directly from their online channels to customers. “This new product will help restaurants reach many more consumers while substantially improving the already market-leading Deliveroo customer experience,” said Paddy Quinlan, growth manager for Ireland. “This exciting new product for Ireland is particularly important given the current situation and is in addition to other support measures we have developed to help all restaurants, particularly small independents that are the lifeblood of the industry and the high street,” he said.
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TWO NEW HOTELS FOR DUBLIN NORTH INNER CITY PLANNED Two new hotels planned for Dublin’s north inner city have been granted planning permission by Dublin City Council. They include the first entry by Northern Ireland hotel and entertainment group, Beannchor, into the market in the Republic for a 98-bed hotel on the site of the former Boland’s bakery off Capel Street. This is the second attempt by Beannchor, which owns the five-star Merchant Hotel in Belfast, to seek planning permission for a hotel on the site of the former bakery. Plans for a 62-bedroom hotel on the site were rejected by An Bord Pleanála in early 2020 on the basis it was not an adequate design given the opportunity to develop the site. The latest plans, which include an eightstorey building, could still face an appeal to An Bord Pleanálá. Dublin City Council has also approved plans for a 94-bedroom hotel by Vision Wave, a company owned by hotelier Brian McGettigan, on the site of a number of existing buildings between Capel Street and Parnell Street. The seven-storey development also provides for a whiskey lounge, wine cellar, spa and restaurant as well as a rooftop private lounge for residents.
JAMESON SALES UP 3% IN 2020 Irish Distillers has announced results for the first half of its financial year, showing that Jameson recorded volume growth in key markets including the UK (+12%), USA (+7%), Russia (+7%) and Ireland (+4%). Within the broader Jameson family, Jameson Black Barrel posted volume growth of 31% globally versus the same period last year, capturing the growing consumer trend towards more premium brands. Conor McQuaid, Chairman and CEO of Irish Distillers, said: “Jameson sold 4.75 million cases, which was its highest ever volumes in the first half of the year. This was aided by sales of over 2 million cases in the US in the first half of the year for the second year in a row but was also buoyed by growth in other key markets including the UK, Russia and Ireland.” He added that the Jameson RTD range is also up by 42% in value compared to the first half of the previous year due to growth in Australia, New Zealand, the UK and Canada.
Midleton Distillery, Co Cork Credit: Cathal Noonan
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City tourism more adversely affected by Covid-19 than regional New report shows Dublin city hotel occupancy less than half that of regional hotels over peak summer period
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new report by EY titled ‘What now for city tourism?’ has found that city tourism has been more severely impacted than any other form of tourism across the island of Ireland. EY benchmark analysis based on STR data for 10 different European countries has found that hotel occupancy rates in Dublin were 56% lower than regional hotel occupancy rates during the last week of July and second week of September 2020. This trend is also witnessed in Europe, as occupancy rates in main capital cities are on average 41% lower than their regional counterparts. Irish regional hotels have performed relatively well during the summer period analysed with a 54% occupancy rate, outperforming their European counterparts. Dublin hotels have underperformed with a 24% occupancy rate compared with 38% in a city like Berlin for example. The city tourism model relies mainly on two drivers – oversea tourists and business tourists. It has been most severely impacted by the restricted activity in airports and the closing of borders, which affected up to 96% of all worldwide destinations at the beginning of April 2020, according to the United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO). Although short-term emigration and longer holidays have been reduced by quarantine measures, city tourism has been more significantly impacted given its traditionally shorter trip duration. City tourism also relies heavily on business tourists travelling for meetings, conferences and events, the majority of which were cancelled due to public health restrictions. This market, which is responsible for more than one in every six hotel nights in Ireland, continues to be challenged. The Eurozone has already suffered a 12% decrease in GDP in Q2 2020 and it is likely that businesses that have already seen considerable cost savings from reduced business travel may continue to retain some of these efficiencies going forward. Traditional in-person conferences will still be organised but the sector will undoubtedly continue to face digital disruption. With video conference
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providers reporting significant increases in revenue and users, there is no doubt communications technology has filled a void and will continue to play a part in the post-pandemic world. Commenting on the performance of regional hotels, Simon MacAllister, Strategy & Transactions Partner for EY Ireland said: “Regional hotel occupancy was supported by domestic tourism over the summer, especially on the island of Ireland where quarantine measures were introduced. The coming months are expected to remain challenging given the ongoing restrictions and the difficult economic environment.” According to Yannick Cabrol, EY Ireland’s Hospitality and Tourism Assistant Director, the country’s relative urban tourism weakness is a result of a number of factors. As a small open island economy the level of business tourism is very high, especially into Dublin where a significant proportion of Ireland’s most successful business are located. “Typically, Irish residents with a higher purchasing power are located in Dublin and they often drive the domestic tourism market. Many people decided to leave the city over the summer to work remotely or to enjoy some time off. In addition to this, overseas visitors who are interested in vibrant city destinations to cities such as Dublin were less likely to travel during the pandemic.’’ The fact that savings deposits were up 10.9% YoY in September (according to the Central Bank) represents significant recovery potential for the tourism sector in the years ahead. However, given North America accounts for approximately 20% of all international tourists to Ireland, it is forecast that private consumption of American tourists may not return to pre-Covid-19 levels before 2022. Good news on vaccine development and quick testing methods operating at airports allow for tourism recovery hopes in the medium term. In the short-term however, existing hospitality businesses will depend on the continuity of government supports. Yannick Cabrol added: “City tourism is not over. The desire to meet, to travel, to feel inspired and enriched remains strong and should give a degree of hope to many at a very challenging time. Delivering a resilient and inclusive city tourism model benefitting locals and tourists is needed now more than ever. Identifying and delivering tangible projects to make this vision happen is a challenging but essential task for governments and cities in the months to come.”
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In Person
IN CONVERSATION WITH… Jumoke Akintola, chef and co-owner of Beach House The Waterfordbased chef talks about trusting your gut and swapping Dublin for Tramore
WHERE DOES YOUR INTEREST IN FOOD COME FROM? WAS IT AN IMPORTANT ASPECT OF FAMILY LIFE GROWING UP? I was lucky to grow up in a household where we ate freshly cooked meals prepared with fresh ingredients on a daily basis. Although I was born and raised in London my family are from Nigeria, so I’ve always appreciated the connection between food, memories, history and emotions. That being said, my interest in food and cooking was kickstarted when Peter and I started dating 12 years ago. YOU’RE A ‘SELF-TAUGHT’ CHEF. WHEN DID YOU REALISE THAT COOKING WAS SOMETHING YOU WERE GOOD AT? Though I resisted, as many adolescents would, I was expected to help out in the kitchen when food was being cooked from an early age. Helping out involved simple things such as getting ingredients from the fridge or pantry. It was also how my family tried to teach me Yoruba. Being self-taught, I still have a lot to learn but suppose I realised that I could become good at cooking when I and other people were enjoying food that I had cooked. YOU WERE ALSO A SECONDARY SCHOOL TEACHER. DO YOU MISS TEACHING? I taught Sociology to 14-19 year olds and I loved it. It was a hugely enjoyable and formative experience but it wasn’t something I wanted to do forever.
Peter Hogan and Jumoke Akintola
WHAT LESSONS DID YOU LEARN FROM RUNNING THE FISH SHOP RESTAURANTS IN DUBLIN? WERE YOU ABLE TO APPLY THEM TO THE BEACH HOUSE? So many lessons but probably number one is to trust your gut and make time to listen to your inner voice. DID IT TAKE LONG TO FIND A PREMISES IN TRAMORE? Moving to Tramore was something that we saw in our future but we weren’t actively “looking”. It all just came together at the right time. HOW LONG DID YOU MANAGE TO OPEN THE BEACH HOUSE BEFORE CLOSING DUE TO COVID? Four days in March and then three months from July to September. DID YOU CONSIDER DOING TAKEAWAYS? From March until July we stayed closed and just worked on the premises. We didn’t want to introduce the restaurant with takeaway. We were able to operate as a restaurant from July to September, before restrictions came in again. We did takeaway from September until December. HOW DO YOU FIND TRAMORE? BIG CHANGE FROM DUBLIN? I couldn’t compare our lives pre and during Covid just yet. That being said, we have appreciated being so close to the sea at this time. WHAT SHOULD A CUSTOMER EXPECT FROM DINING AT THE BEACH HOUSE? Lovely ingredients, prepared, cooked and served with love. WHAT ARE YOUR AMBITIONS FOR THE BEACH HOUSE? To still be here in 20 years’ time. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE DISH? Spaghetti and tomato sauce or jollof rice. HOW ARE YOU SPENDING LOCKDOWN? Planning and dreaming.
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Cover Story
Survive to Paul Kelly, CEO of Fáilte Ireland
THRIVE
Fáilte Ireland announces 2021 priorities to support the survival and recovery of the tourism sector
O
n the 1st of February, Fáilte Ireland shared its plans to support the survival and recovery of the tourism sector at a special virtual event entitled ‘Survive to Thrive’ which was watched by over five thousand members of the tourism industry. Paul Kelly, CEO talks to us about the National Tourism Development Authority’s priorities for 2021 including new business supports, domestic marketing, urban outdoor investment and grant schemes. “Covid-19 has had a devastating impact on tourism. The sector’s revenue has declined by a massive €6 billion and tens of thousands of jobs have been lost. As we move into what will undoubtedly be another very challenging year, Fáilte Ireland’s focus is on supporting resilience and survival in the short term and the recovery of the sector in the long-term,” explains Paul. In 2021, Fáilte Ireland will continue to offer expert advice and guidance to support the industry during the Covid-19 crisis. “We will be rolling out new employee, business and sector supports
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“Fáilte Ireland’s focus is on supporting resilience and survival in the short term and the recovery of the sector in the long-term”
on areas such as strategy and leadership, finance and cost efficiency, food and beverage innovation and service excellence to drive performance and help the industry navigate the challenges they are facing,” says Paul. “I’d encourage businesses to continue visiting our online Covid-19 Business Support Hub on www.failteireland.ie for the latest supports.” As the vaccine rollout gets underway, Fáilte Ireland is hopeful that some kind of domestic tourism activity can start again this summer. “Domestic tourism will be the first to return and we plan to invest significantly in marketing to drive domestic tourism when the country re-opens. Our research tells us that the ‘Keep Discovering’ campaign we launched prior to the Covid-19 pandemic resonates even more strongly with people now and we will be rolling the campaign out at both a national and county level.” To prepare for the return of tourism, Fáilte Ireland has developed a new digital transformation programme. “Online planning and booking have become even more important. We will be working with the industry to build improved websites and online booking capability.” Fáilte Ireland will also be investing in urban areas. “We are hoping to launch two new pilot funding schemes in collaboration with our local authority partners to enhance urban areas and make them more appealing to visitors,” says Paul, “the Outdoor Dining Grant Scheme which will aim to improve the quality of outdoor dining spaces and offer reassurance around safety and comfort and the Urban Animation Grant Scheme which we hope will animate cities and towns with innovative lighting and art installations. We’re also continuing to implement projects to boost the attractiveness and tourism appeal of 31 towns nationwide through our Destination Towns Scheme which launched in 2019 and is progressing well.”
Over five thousand members of the tourism industry watched Fáilte Ireland’s virtual event ‘Survive to Thrive’
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“Domestic tourism will be the first to return and we plan to invest significantly in marketing to drive domestic tourism when the country re-opens”
At the virtual industry event, Fáilte Ireland announced details of a new €55 million Tourism Business Continuity Scheme. The allocation was secured by Minister for Tourism, Culture, Arts, Sport, Gaeltacht and Media, Catherine Martin T.D. in Budget 2021 and Fáilte Ireland is responsible for developing and administering the scheme. “The Tourism Business Continuity Scheme will support tourism businesses that were not eligible for the Covid Restrictions Support Scheme (CRSS) payment or previous Fáilte Ireland continuity grant schemes with direct financial assistance to offset fixed costs and help them to continue operating through 2021,” says Paul. “The first phase of the scheme opens for applications (from the 11th February to 8th March) to businesses including outdoor activity providers, visitor attractions not eligible for CRSS, caravan and camping providers registered with Fáilte Ireland and cruise hire companies.” Eligibility criteria and further information on the Tourism Business Continuity Scheme can be found on www.failteireland.ie. As the tourism sector continues to face incredibly difficult challenges due to COVID-19, Paul believes there are reasons to be hopeful. “Although not quite like this crisis, tourism has weathered many previous crises and each time we have come back stronger – whether it was foot and mouth or the financial crisis. The deeper the crisis, the stronger the recovery and the higher the post-crisis peak. Covid-19 undoubtedly dwarfs previous crises, but I firmly believe that working together, once it is safe to do so again, we can deliver a recovery of a scale befitting the scale of this crisis.” For more information on Fáilte Ireland’s 2021 plans and priorities, visit www.failteireland.ie
Fáilte Ireland plans to roll out their ‘Keep Discovering’ campaign when the country re-opens
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Innovation
OUTSIDE THE BOX Lockdown is encouraging restaurateurs and chefs across the country to get creative with their spare time
JP McMahon
Lessons from Lockdown Like so many events last year, Food on the Edge 2020 had to be cancelled. To keep the spirit of the symposium fresh in people’s minds JP McMahon, the event’s founder, contacted previous speakers and contributors and asked them to write a letter addressed to the industry. The result is ‘Lessons from Lockdown: Cooking after Covid’, an E-Book that reflects the diverse voices from around the world that make up the industry, from the chefs and producers to the service providers. It’s a piece of work that, says JP, serves as a global record of a particularly challenging time while allowing hope to shine on the future and the next generation of young cooks, chefs, farmers and food activists. “What we got was a series of deeply personal and moving accounts of their Covid-19 experience, with many recounting losses and some reminiscing on valuable gains and insights”, he said. The experiences throughout the book have similar themes; the joy that came with spending more time with family and loved ones, evaluating what life was like before Covid-19 and changes that would be made going forward and the resilience of the industry. Elena Arzak of Restaurant Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain wrote: “The hospitality industry is in an especially hard place. But if there’s one thing chefs are good at, it’s making the best out of any situation. We are givers and can make wonderful things out of the ingredients that we have on hand. We are good at logistics and planning and we are generous because our reason for being is to feed and take care of people. Now is the time to be especially generous.” Massimo Bottura, of Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy, who spoke at Food On The Edge 2016, shared a recipe he used while working in Refettorio in Rio de Janeiro with Food for Soul, the non-profit organisation he founded with his wife Lara, and Gastromotiva. The recipe is a carbonara using banana peel, “to show that the most incredible things are still possible when you look at the world from another point of view and dare to leave your comfort zone.” JP is busy preparing for a different kind of Food on the Edge for 2021. “It will take a different format to years gone before, Massimo nevertheless we are looking forward to Bottura keeping the momentum going and the conversation alive.” ‘Lessons from Lockdown: Cooking after Covid’ is available on the Food On The Edge website.
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I’ve a horse (box) outside Chad Byrne, Head Chef at the Brehon Hotel in Killarney, has big plans for the horsebox he bought on Done Deal recently. He’s set to go down the mobile catering route and will soon be selling delicious fare from ‘The Hungry Donkey’ (name is still up for debate, he says). The new venture is as much about keeping himself financially healthy as it is about doing something new and fresh. “At the moment, it’s unclear whether I’ll be working a full week in The Brehon or be on three days, like I was last year. The wolves are slowly coming to the door so I need to make sure I have a stable income. I’m also incredibly excited about the type of food I’ll be cooking; I have every faith in my ability as a chef and I know this is something that I’ll have fun with.” During each lockdown, Chad has kept himself busy. “This one has been the most rewarding as I have my children with me, which I didn’t for the other two. In the first one, I did a huge amount of charity work with Meals on Wheels in Tralee. I got a group of chefs together through a network I created called ‘Chef Collab’ and together, we served between 300 and 400 people a day.” In the second lockdown, Chad set up ‘Chef v Chef’ on Instagram, an initiative which brought 36 chefs and 28 suppliers together. At the moment, Chad is trialling various dishes that may or may not end up on The Hungry Donkey’s menu. “It’ll be dishes like Amsterdam schwarma pumped up on steroids along with some nostalgic classics pumped up to the nines. There’ll be a huge emphasis on local produce and value is key. Overall, it’ll be very different to what’s out there.” The Hungry Donkey’s food offering will also be in complete contrast to the dishes he prepares at The Brehon. “The shackles are off. With something like the horsebox, you can be way more experimental. It’s the perfect tool for a chef to let his or her hair down.” The horsebox, which Chad stripped and sandblasted himself, is now with the fabricator. “For a job like this, you need a licensed fabricator. If you do everything yourself, you won’t get insured.” He hopes to open the new business by the end of April. “I’m nervous about what’s around the corner but you have to be optimistic. This has been an absolute godsend, I can’t wait to get started!” Follow Chad’s horsebox journey on Instagram @pimpmyhorsebox
Bringing joy back to eating Around this time last year, I did an interview with Joyce Timmins, Catering Manager at Marymount Retirement Home in Lucan. In the piece, Joyce spoke of the pride she felt in preparing dishes for people with dysphagia issues. She also talked about the Executive Chef role she previously held in the Rotunda and the video of lunch being served to patients that went viral (a lunch she had cooked). Over the past year, Joyce has continued her duties at Marymount but has also embarked on a new venture – creating her own website to educate people on how easy it is to create healthy yet delicious food for people with issues around dysphagia. “The website has come about for a couple of reasons. Nobody within the HSE was taking me up on any offers for consultation. I also had people getting in contact and asking for advice on food options for family members that were sick or dying. These people were having huge difficulty swallowing food and were forced to have, what were essentially, baby bowls.” One particular person that contacted Joyce was caring for her cousin who had cancer. “This was in a house that was all about food; the kitchen was the heart of the home. No-one was looking forward to Christmas dinner so I offered to create and prepare a couple of dinners.” Joyce’s pureed dishes brought much-needed joy to the family and were followed by further queries from people in similar positions. “The website, called ‘Pure Joy’, will include menus and recipes that can be easily recreated at home. “All of the recipes will include information on calories, allergies, carb and protein amounts. I want to show people that are caring for loved ones at home how easy it is to prepare these dishes, how to plate them up and how to pipe them. You just have to think a little outside the box.” It’ll also serve as a resource to chefs in care settings, says Joyce, who will be providing one-to-one or group training for all care homes, not just aged care. Joyce expects to launch the website in March. Alongside her new venture, she’s still pushing boundaries at Marymount. “We’ve got a beehive coming to the home soon and I’m about to start a bee course. It’ll be something new for the residents to get involved in, it’s so important to keep pushing them and myself.” Follow Joyce at www.Joyce Timmins.com
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H
A complete refurbishment at the Station House Hotel in Kilmessan, County Meath, has placed the hotel in an excellent position for when restrictions ease.
istory and heritage play a big role at the Station House Hotel. Operating as a guesthouse since 1983, the Station House Hotel served as a train line to Meath and Westmeath from 1862 before the line closed in 1947. The turntable that served as a turning point for trains returning to Dublin can still be found in the hotel’s surrounding environs along with several other original elements including the railway safe, fireplaces and the train platforms which stand outside the hotel’s front door. Thelma and Chris Slattery opened the guesthouse back in 1983 and are still involved in day to day operations. Their daughters, Denise and Suzanne, now manage the hotel. All four have been involved in the extensive refurbishment which has seen the renovation of all public spaces, including the 19 bedrooms, Signal Restaurant and Platform Bar. “The refurbishment almost happened by accident. In 2019, I was sitting in the hotel one day with a friend who happens to be an interior designer. We were wondering what the ceiling would look like if we painted it. We decided to go for it and after that
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we just kept going,” said Suzanne Slattery, Manager at the Station House. Later that same year, a decision was made to refurbish all 19 bedrooms, including the two-room Signal Suite, the original signal box for the station along with the former stationmaster’s quarters, now the Grand Suite. The Slattery family worked with Millimetre Design and local interior designer Noreen Lawless on the refurb. The interiors now feature hand-woven jute rugs and suzani cushions made to order by From Jaipur with Love, an Indian artisan company founded by Irish designer Elizabeth Morrison along with fabrics from Christopher Farr, Pierre Frey, William Morris & Co and Harlequin. Artworks from local artist Deirdre Hoffman hangs on the Station House’s walls while Mullan Lighting in County Cavan supplied some of the hand-made lighting. “Meath is such a beautiful county and for me, it was important to bring a lot of colour inside the Hotel. We wanted to make it modern and fresh but not so modern that it would lose its country house charm. When I first spoke with Millimetre Design, I said I don’t want it to look like a hotel, I wanted it to look like a beautiful home, a place you’d love to go and stay with all the modern amenities you’d find in a five star hotel.” It still feels like the Station House, says Suzanne, but it’s a much fresher space. “There was quite a lot of heavy wood and dark furniture before the renovation. That’s all been replaced and it just feels so much lighter now.” The hotel’s library, originally the main station’s toilet, still features original antique bookcases, sash windows, fire guards and tables. Locked for years, shutters in the Grand Suite dating back to the 1800’s have been renovated and opened up. The entire room has been painted green, with yellow doors. “It took Ronan Houlihan in Millimetre Design a while to convince me that painting the whole room green would work. He insisted it would make the furniture really pop out, which it does. It’s great
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working with people who know what they’re doing, it makes you that bit more adventurous.” The Slattery family continue to work with Millimetre Design, this time on the Carriage Suite or function room where weddings are held. “The Carriage Suite should have been finished by March but with the current lockdown, it was delayed. Hopefully it will be finished by the end of April and that will be the last phase of the refurb.” Throughout 2020, a number of intimate weddings were held at the Station House. “I’ve always thought the Signal Restaurant in the main building would be the ideal venue for a small wedding. As it turned out, Covid forced that to happen. So our weddings became smaller but still really beautiful.” Once Level 5 restrictions lift, the Station House team will be ready to open fully to the public. “We’ve got a new website on the way, new wines on the menu and new people joining our team. We’re also relaunching the Signal Restaurant with the emphasis very much on locally sourced food. It will almost be like what it was in the 80’s, when everything was sourced locally.” Although closing the hotel has been far from ideal, it has given Suzanne and the team a chance to look at the Station House through a different lens. “You’re normally so busy with operations that you never have time to think through the changes you’d like to make. Since closing in March 2020, we’ve certainly had that time and we’re delighted we’ve been able to implement them. Now though, we really can’t wait to reopen!”
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Books
Books out this month....
Pod Life... MODERNIST BREADCRUMBS
The Anti-Cancer Cookbook: Recipes to Reduce your Cancer Risk Author:
Dr Aoife Ryan, Dr Éadaoin Ní Bhuachalla Publisher: Cork University Press RRP: €25 Available: All good bookshops and breakthroughcancerresearch.ie Georgina Campbell, Derval O’Rourke and Neven Maguire are just some of the culinary contributors to a new healthy eating cookbook created to help lower the risk of cancer by two of Ireland’s leading dietitians and cancer experts at University College Cork (UCC). This unique cookbook was written and compiled by leading registered Irish dietitians, Dr Aoife Ryan, Senior Lecturer in Nutrition and Dietetics at UCC and Dr Éadaoin Ní Bhuachalla, UCC PhD graduate and HSE Senior Primary Care Dietitian, who said they wanted to counteract the “rising tide of misinformation on cancer and nutrition” now circulating widely. They partnered with Breakthrough Cancer Research to create the book as a ‘go to’ evidence-based resource for people who want to cook and consume healthier food to lower their risk of cancer.
This podcast covers the science of breadmaking, as well as the history Find your and political next favourite power of podcast with grains. As the our pick of the podcast best notes, people riot when they can’t get bread – no one riots Author: Pete Brown over ice-cream. Each Publisher: CAMRA Books episode explores bread RRP: €14 from a different angle Available: www.amazon.com from its complicated past to the grains, tools Ask any beer lover why they choose the beers and microbes we use to they drink and they’ll tell you it’s all about the make it. taste. That may be true, but you need to see a Listen on Spotify beer and order it before you can find out what or Stitcher it tastes like. On the bar of any decent pub or shelves of a good bottle shop or supermarket POINT OF ORIGIN beer aisle, the choice can be overwhelming. The This is a podcast about design of a beer label, pump clip, bottle or can the world of food, has to do a lot of work to stand out, get noticed worldwide. In each and suggest to the thirsty punter that here is episode, the host travels a beer they will enjoy. In this lavishly illustrated to different countries book, acclaimed beer writer Pete Brown explores exploring culture the conventions of successful beer design through food, examining (and how they are now being shattered) and its past and present and explains the tricks and secrets of great design in a what it teaches us about compelling and highly readable narrative. who we are and how we came to be. Listen on Apple Podcasts or Spotify
Beer by Design: Art of Good Beer Branding
CHECK OUT SOME OF THE BEST FOOD RELATED BOOKS AND PODCASTS ON THE MARKET RIGHT NOW
Shelf Book
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TAKE A BAO Blogger Loh Yi Jun dedicates his show to Asia’s flavours and food traditions, from unpacking the origins of rice and rendang to deep dives into the depths of Chinese tea and Vietnamese pho. You’ll hear from chefs, farmers, food writers and eaters and learn how to cook and eat iconic Asian dishes. Listen on Spotify or Apple Podcasts
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A Quick Chat
A Quick Chat with Jack Campbell McGowan
Restaurant Supervisor at Fire Steakhouse, Jack Campbell McGowan, on adapting to Covid and making a mean Old Fashioned
How has your role changed since Covid?
We have less staff now so there’s definitely more to do. Since Covid, we haven’t taken anything out in terms of service, we’ve only added elements in to ensure guests feel comfortable and safe. Alongside that, we want to make sure people enjoy their evening without feeling like they’re in a sterile environment so there’s a balance there that we need to achieve. Everyone, from management down, has invested a lot of time and effort into that and going by the feedback we were getting before lockdown, it’s working.
How many members of staff do you have?
75 in total. As mentioned above, we have less staff at the moment and we’ve gone from doing about 600 covers on a typical pre-Covid Saturday to about 400. One staff member is responsible for ensuring every single area of the building is sanitised. Before we reopened last year, we walked the building an endless number of times and counted every single point a person might touch when they’re going to the bathroom or entering or exiting the building. Every day one member of staff is responsible for cleaning all of those touchpoints and sanitising all the menus, essentially the entire building.
How has your career progressed?
I’ve been lucky in that I was chosen to participate in the management training programme. I started that two years ago and it consisted of working as a waiter, bartender and a stint on reception. After completing the course, I joined the management team. It was a great opportunity and I learned so much from each element of the course.
Ambitions for the future?
I’d like to keep progressing and learning. Fire has given me an excellent training ground, I couldn’t have asked for better. I feel comfortable in every aspect of the business so now it’s all about moving up, improving and ensuring I keep delivering the best service to customers.
Fire is well known for its cocktails & what’s your favourite?
The Old Fashioned. One of the bartenders in Fire, a friend of mine, taught me how to make them. I’ve tasted lots of different ones in different venues but they don’t compare to the Old Fashioned in Fire. That little bit of extra work that goes into them really makes all the difference. We’re often told by customers that our cocktails are the best they’ve ever had and we’re proud of that.
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Talk to us on 0818 363 749 or visit www.pinergy.ie
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