Licensing World - Issue 3 2023

Back in March, a planning expert declared to a roomful of builders that Ireland had one of “the most bureaucratic planning systems in the world.” John Downey, who had been speaking at the Irish Home Builders Association’s housebuilding summit at Croke Park, added that the current process, which may include An Bord Pleanála appeals and judicial reviews, can take up to four years and was leading to long delays and expensive outcomes. Michelle and Gareth McAllister, who have just opened Ahascragh Distillery in Galway, are all too familiar with Ireland’s broken planning system. It took the best part of a year for planning to come through for the site’s café and that’s despite the fact that up until recently, it was the only café for miles in the area. Right now, the couple are seeking planning permission for warehousing on the site but it’s proving a difficult task. The distillery has brought employment to the area, while historic buildings have been sympathetically restored. It is, says Gareth, scandalous how they’re being treated, but it’s in line with other projects that have been scuppered by outdated planning laws. Despite the hurdles, Ahascragh is open for business and already producing liquid. Michelle and Gareth have big plans to refurbish another building on the site, to see their products grow and for that growth to create employment in the area. For more on their plans, go to page 16. Elsewhere in this issue, we catch up with the LVA’s newly-elected Chair, Laura Moriarty. Lucky Saint Founder Luke Boase tells us about his mission to change how we view alcohol free beer and Noel Anderson talks about Little Lemon, his new bar and restaurant that’s just about to open on Royal Hibernian Way. He also gives his opinion on Dublin’s growing reputation as a dirty, unsafe city for both tourists and locals.

We hope you enjoy this issue and if you’ve any thoughts or opinions, please drop us a line.

Denise Maguire Editor

The Licensing World editorial team email: editor@licensingworld.com

Editor: Denise Maguire

Creative Director: Jane Matthews

Art Director: Lenny Rooney

Designer: Neasa Daly

Production: Claire Kiernan

Stock Photography: iStock.com

Sales Director: Trish Murphy

Managing Director: Gerry Tynan

Chairman: Diarmaid Lennon

Published by: Ashville Media, Unit 55, Park West Road, Park West Dublin 12 Tel: (01) 432 2200

ISSN: 1393-0826

All rights reserved. Every care has been taken to ensure that the information contained in this magazine is accurate. The publishers cannot, however, accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Reproduction by any means in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher is prohibited. © Ashville Media Group 2023. All discounts, promotions and competitions contained in this magazine are run independently of Licensing World. The promoter/advertiser is responsible for honouring the prize. ISSN 1393-0826 VISIT

The main events this summer...

Walking and Whiskey

The Galway Whiskey Trail is back, inviting visitors and whiskey enthusiasts to embark on a journey through Galway's vibrant whiskey scene. Showcasing the city's finest whiskey bars and outlets, the trail promises an immersive experience that combines the rich history of Galway's whiskey heritage with the opportunity to enjoy whiskeys from renowned distilleries from Ireland. The self-guided Whiskey Tour includes stops at Sonny Molloy’s, Freeney’s, Tigh Neachtain's, The Kings Head and Garavan's.

All that Jazz

Macy Gray, Corinne Bailey Rae, Morcheeba, Matthew Halsall and Grammy award winning Kurt Elling are among the headline acts to perform at this year's Guinness Cork Jazz Festival. Taking place over the October bank holiday weekend, this year’s event is celebrating its 45th year with more ticketed shows, an extra date, an extended music trail through the city and a stellar line-up of Irish and

international musicians and emerging talent. Last year’s event attracted over 100,000 visitors to Cork city. “We expect the Festival will once again attract jazz enthusiasts and festival fans from far and near. With its rich heritage and thriving jazz scene, Cork is the perfect location for this electrifying event that is cherished by locals and visitors alike,” said Rory Sheridan, Head of Partnerships at Diageo Ireland.

Hermeto Pascoal at Guinness Cork Jazz Festival 2022

Appointment

The Limerick Strand Hotel has appointed Darren Wrenn as its new Food & Beverage Manager.

Offaly native Darren brings a wealth of managerial experience, having most recently held the role of Food & Beverage Manager at Kinnitty Castle. Previously, Darren held the position of Operations Manager at Racket Hall Country House Hotel where he managed to upgrade the hotel from a 3-star to 4-star Failte Ireland rating. “I have always respected the excellent food ethos at The Limerick Strand Hotel and look forward to helping them continue to grow their exceptional Weddings & Events business and augmenting the overall food & beverage guest experience,” he said.

Beer production and exports up, consumption down

Beer remains Ireland’s favourite alcohol beverage but consumption remains below pre-pandemic levels, with more consumers trying zero alcohol variants of their favourite beer. That’s according to the annual Irish Beer Market Report from Drinks Ireland | Beer, which shows that the ending of the pandemic resulted in a 110% increase in total production of beer in Ireland as both the domestic and international markets reopened. However, beer and overall alcohol consumption continues to decline.

Key findings

» Beer’s share of the national alcohol market grew by over 8% to 43.5%, meaning it remains Ireland’s favourite drink

» Total beer production in Ireland more than doubled in 2022, as national and global restrictions put in place due to the Covid-19 pandemic were phased out and people once again were able to drink their favourite beer in pubs, clubs and restaurants

» The UK is the biggest export market for Irish beer, followed by the United States, France, Germany and Belgium

» While consumption grew year-on-year in 2022 as pandemic restrictions were lifted, total consumption is still down over 3% compared to 2019 with per capita consumption down by 7.7%, mirroring a continued fall in alcohol consumption in Ireland over the last 20 years

» Nearly 60% of the beer consumed in Ireland is lager, with stout accounting for nearly 35%

» 28% of the price of a pint paid for by the consumer goes directly to the Exchequer in VAT and excise, with Irish excise rates the highest in the EU except for Finland

» Two thirds of beer is purchased in on-trade venues like bars

A Midsummer Night’s Dream

» Sales of zero alcohol beer increased by 25% last year. All signs are that Ireland will develop a significant zero alcohol beer market in the years to come, if promotion continues. Commenting on the report’s publication, Director of Drinks Ireland, Cormac Healy, said: “These increased sales followed large drops in consumption in 2020 and 2021, as consumers stayed home. However, it is notable that beer sales have not fully recovered, as consumers generally reduce their alcohol consumption. Ireland’s extremely high rates of excise duty on beer do nothing to help sales either, of course. The growth of 0.0% beer is a promising trend, offering consumers a choice that supports moderation. While the category is emerging from a low base here, we see from markets like Spain and Germany that 0.0% drinks have a market share of over 10%. Based on data from Drinks Ireland | Beer members, we can see that over the last five years, the market share for 0.0 beers has grown by 325% and last year alone, volume sales increased by 25%. Brewers should be allowed to market and promote these products under the strict codes already in place and not be targeted with unnecessary additional regulation on products that can actually support the Government and industry objective of reducing alcohol misuse.”

Pictured are InterContinental Dublin’s General Manager Nicky Logue with Louis Walsh at the hotel’s Garden Terrace party, which was held on midsummer’s evening. Guests enjoyed Midsummer & Paradiso cocktails and sampled new summer menus developed by Executive Chef Alberto Rossi and his team.

'Summer Solstice' Whiskey from Boann Distillery

Cocktail Hour

For International Moscow Mule Day, Lemuel's at Conrad Dublin created an ode to the beloved tipple

Boann Distillery celebrated the summer solstice by launching its newest creation, the ‘Summer Solstice’ release, marking the second single cask bottling from Boann in just six months. The Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey was unveiled to a select group of whiskey enthusiasts at a Summer Solstice tasting event in the distillery as part of the Boyne Valley Food series, where

attendees became the first to savour the new release. The whiskey, which was released after undergoing three years of maturation in a 225-litre Rivesaltes Rouge Barriqu single cask from the Languedoc-Roussillon region in Southern France, has a limited release of only 401 bottles. A 500ml bottle can be purchased for €150 at boanndistillery.ie, with a limit of two bottles per person.

Edward Dillon adds Minuty Wines to portfolio

Edward Dillon has become the distributor of Minuty Wines in the Republic of Ireland. Château Minuty is one of the last estates in the Côtes de Provence where grapes are harvested entirely by hand. Each year, over 100 people join Minuty’s usual team of 20, where hands are kept busy for the duration of “les vendanges”, the cutting of the grape bunches one by one. The brand, which includes Minuty’s latest 2022 vintage wines, has been added to Edward Dillon’s Moët Hennessy Ireland portfolio.

MULE

Putting a playful spin on the Moscow Mule, the 'LeMule' has been added to the menu at Conrad Dublin’s new resident bar. According to the team at Lemuel’s, the recipe stays true to the simplicity and great taste of the Mule cocktail, while bringing it into the 21st century.

Ingredients

25ml Black Tears Spiced Rum

25ml Diplomatico Reserva Rum

10ml Carpano Antica Formula

2 dashes Angostura bitters

20ml lime juice

20ml sugar syrup

Method

Add ingredients to shaker and shake for 20 seconds. Strain into a copper cocktail tin over crushed ice then top with Fever Tree Ginger Ale. Garnish with a fresh mint sprig and dehydrated limes.

MOSCOW

Findlater celebrates 200th birthday

This year, Findlater & Co is celebrating its 200th birthday with the theme ‘The Past Meets The Future’ throughout its events. Founded by Alexander Findlater in 1823 on Burgh Quay in Dublin, the company started out selling Irish and Scotch whiskey and soon grew the business to include wine, coffee and tea. Following the passing of Alexander Findlater in 1873, his nephew John took over the reins and opened food and wine

Further price increases from Diageo

Diageo has written to all publicans in the country advising the price of a pint will go up by four cents (five cents when VAT is included) from August, citing “rising business costs” as the reason for the increase. The Vintners’ Federation of Ireland (VFI) has stated the price increase is poorly timed and deeply unfair to both consumers and publicans. Reacting to the announcement, John Clendennen, VFI President and owner of Giltraps Bar and Glamping in Kinnity, Co Offaly, said: “This is incomprehensible, both in the need for such an increase and the timing of it. Diageo took a 12 cent increase back in February which, in my memory, is the highest ever increase imposed. Many of the factors under ‘rising business costs’ Diageo refer to as justification for the increase were either known back in February and included in that increase or, indeed, have reduced in the meantime”.

Clendennen added that the timing of Diageo’s announcement is ‘awful’. “I can’t think of a more inopportune time for a supplier to even be thinking of increasing prices, let alone doing it. I believe Diageo are out of tune with both their customers and the consumer. I will be calling on Diageo to review this decision immediately.”

stores in the main residential districts of Dublin, along with a headquarters on Upper O’Connell Street. Managed by three generations of the family, the business continued, finally trading as Findlater Wine Merchants from the old-bonded vaults under the Harcourt Street Railway Station. In 2001, the business was purchased by Cantrell & Cochrane and its portfolio became part of Findlater Grants (incorporating Grants of Ireland Ltd), before

merging with Woodford Bourne in 2009 to create the Findlater Wine & Spirit Group and rebranded in 2016 as Findlater & Co. A release marking the anniversary is due to be launched this summer –two wines, one showcasing tradition and history, the other representing the future with a nod to its ‘Give Wine a Future’ initiative. In September, Findlater & Co is set to host its themed 200th birthday party in the RDS Concert Hall.

New ‘green’ Cocktail Book at The Merchant

Belfast’s Merchant Hotel has launched a new cocktail list with a focus on sustainability. Volume V of The Cocktail Book at The Merchant Hotel features a pared back selection of 20 cocktails which aims to capture the zeitgeist of the cocktail scene, showcase timeless favourites, Merchant signatures along with Merchant originals. Building on the hotel’s farm to table ethos, efforts have been made to streamline processes to limit unnecessary waste. Each element of the drinks has a purpose; nothing is wasted. Garnishes, if present, are edible or a by-product of another drink and are always designed to enhance the piquancy of the cocktail. For example, bartenders handcraft their own orgeat syrup for use in several cocktails and leftover almonds are used by the chefs to make biscuits. According to Merchant Cocktail Bar Manager Aaron Dugan, ice is the most important part of any drink. By creating the ‘igloo effect’, the ice cools but does not dilute the liquid. The hotel has spent years perfecting its ice and large hand-carved ice cubes feature in many of its signature serves.

DEFIANT IRISH SPIRITS, AN ALLIANCE OF PREMIUM IRISH DRINKS BRANDS, HAS HIT THE MARKET

Defiant IRISH Spirits

Defiant Irish Spirits, a trade alliance of six independent premium Irish drinks brands, launched earlier this year at Dublin’s Bloom Festival. The brands are working together to create a team that can collectively market, sell and communicate their products to national and international hospitality and retail sectors. This is being achieved through brand ambassadors that represent all six companies and share the one social media channel, with content produced for the trade and bartender community.

DEFIANT IRISH SPIRITS IS COMPRISED OF

BLOOD MONKEY

Blood Monkey Irish Gin is based on the original 17th century Genever recipe. It’s been designed as a sipping gin, one of only a few gins that can be drunk neat as well as in a traditional gin & tonic and whiskey cocktail

COOLE SWAN

Coole Swan was born to reinvent Irish cream for a modern world. It’s an unruly recreation of a classic Irish product, a perfect blend of whiskey, chocolate and cream. ‘Wine Enthusiast’ scored it 96/100 and described it as "the pinnacle of quality."

FOXES BOW

With a distinct lack of respect for rules and an impatience with the status quo, Foxes Bow is a whiskey for everyone, but it won't be for everyone. Foxes Bow was keen to explore the impact of rye on Irish whiskey, so they added a rye cask finish to their first release.

ISTIL 38 CRAFT IRISH VODKA

istil 38's crisp clean aromas sets it apart from the crowd. It’s the product of a carefully refined distillation process, designed to create a rounded full flavoured Irish vodka. The result? istil 38 tastes just as stunning over ice as it does with a splash of mixer.

MAD MARCH HARE POITÍN

For centuries, poitín was an illicit spirit but was made legal again in 1997 and can now be found on back bars all across Ireland instead of under the counter. Today, Mad March Hare is proud to be leading the revolution as the world's number 1 poitín brand.

TWO SHORES

Two Shores is a sustainably sourced golden rum, distilled using only pure sugar cane in the heart of Central America and finished for a minimum of six months on the west coast of Ireland.

Defiant Irish Spirits officially launched at Bord Bia's Bloom Festival in the Phoenix Park, where each brand showcased a signature serve and cocktail. Alice Carroll of Foxes Bow said: "By taking a unified approach, not only can we pool resources but we can reduce our operational costs by sharing the ambassadors or by sharing stands at bar shows and promotional events. We are also trying to make the trade buyers' lives easier. Instead of six individual brands looking for time to discuss their products with bars or off-licences, we have all the main spirits categories represented in our portfolio and by working with us, the bars are showing they support local Irish brands.”

Shane Davey of istil 38 said: "With istil 38, our social media pages have to be geared towards the public to best deliver our messaging around our core values and at home serves. But we've seen the need to create content that specifically speaks to our cocktail-making craft bartenders. The Defiant Irish Spirits Instagram page allows us to do just that. We can share videos and photos that are tailor-made to inspire and educate bartenders about our six exemplary spirits and how they can be best enjoyed.”

John D'Alton, Sales Ambassador for Defiant Irish Spirits and Ashley McGregor, Foxes Bow Marketing Manager

THE

The House of Suntory proudly celebrated 100 years of producing world-renowned whiskies in June 2023, a journey which began with the establishment of its Yamazaki Distillery in 1923 —the first and oldest malt whisky distillery in Japan’s history. The House of Suntory founder Shinjiro Torii’s 100-year legacy began with a dream to “create an original Japanese whisky blessed with the riches of Japanese nature and craftsmanship,” which his grandson Shingo Torii carries forth today at Yamazaki and its distilleries across the country. Since its founding, the House of Suntory has been crafting world-class spirits and is known for Yamazaki, Hakushu, Hibiki, Toki and Ao whiskies, as well as Roku Gin and Haku Vodka.

To mark this centennial, the House of Suntory has released a Suntory Anniversary Tribute as imagined by Academy Award-winning director Sofia Coppola and starring actor Keanu Reeves, as well as two 100 year anniversary limited-edition whiskies that highlight the unique Japanese craftsmanship at Suntory’s whisky distilleries and their meticulous art of blending – Yamazaki 18 Year Old Mizunara Cask and Hakushu 18 Year Old Peated Malt.

Twenty years after filming Lost in Translation, Sofia Coppola returned to Japan to create the short film. Bringing her artistic genius and admiration for Suntory Whisky to life as the creative director, Coppola’s work tells the remarkable story of the brand’s heritage and whiskymaking legacy over the last 100 years, depicting the meaning of “Suntory Time” through the eyes of its creator. The Suntory Anniversary Tribute features actor Keanu Reeves, a lover of Suntory Whisky and who previously appeared in a Suntory Reserve ad campaign in 1992 and can be viewed at https://house.suntory. com/

"I’m honoured to partner with Suntory Whisky again 30 years after our Suntory Reserve campaign,” said Keanu Reeves. “I’m a huge fan of Suntory Whisky, so it’s very special to collaborate in honour of this milestone anniversary. My admiration for the whisky goes beyond tasting the whisky. It is the elevated Japanese craftsmanship and attention to every detail that makes Suntory Whisky so special. As an actor honing and perfecting my own craft, sharing this process is a thrill.”

In Ireland, the Suntory Anniversary Tribute and the two limited-edition whiskies were launched at an exclusive ‘Suntory Time’ 100 year celebration which took place in 9Below Bar, Dublin 2 on Tuesday 20th June.

Speaking on these limited-edition releases, fifth generation Chief Blender Shinji Fukuyo said: “Hakushu and Yamazaki whiskies are gifts from our past handed down by generations. It is fitting to release limited editions as part of this incredible milestone, as they represent our relentless pursuit of quality and symbolize our promise to carry our philosophy on for the next 100 years and beyond.”

To the next 100 years at House of Suntory, Kanpai! (Cheers!)

HOUSE OF SUNTORY IS PROUDLY TO CELEBRATE 100 YEARS OF PIONEERING JAPANESE SPIRIT, THE HOUSE OF SUNTORY HAS PARTNERED WITH SOFIA COPPOLA AND KEANU REEVES AND INTRODUCED NEW LIMITED-EDITION WHISKIES

A Family

THE SHARPE BROTHERS

TAKE THE HELM AT ELBOW LANE

Brothers Ronan and Harrison Sharpe have been appointed to the two top roles at Elbow Lane, Cork’s Smokehouse and Brewery as it gets ready to celebrate its 10th anniversary next year. Ronan (age 28), the venue’s new General Manager, joins his older brother Harrison (age 30), currently the Head Chef to lead the eatery into its next decade. Elbow Lane has long been known for fostering young talent and implementing a staff training and mentoring programme; chef Aishling Moore started out in the kitchen at Elbow Lane before leaving to set up goldie.

“We are both delighted to be given the opportunity and responsibility to head up this very special restaurant,” says Harrison. “We bring very different skills and strengths to the business which actually makes it better as a whole. Working with a sibling means that your patience is neverending. You both share the same goals and want the business to succeed. Being able to trust each other implicitly makes running a business so much easier."

Ronan adds: “Harrison is the best chef I know and I am enormously proud to be working alongside him. We can be totally honest with each other in a way that only siblings can and I know he will always have my back and vice versa. “

The brothers are very clear about their vision for the business. Ronan says: “We want to build on the restaurant’s great reputation and to continue to provide a unique experience that leaves a lasting impression on both new and repeat customers.

“We have amazing colleagues working with us at Elbow Lane and we want to continue to provide them with all of the opportunities they need to excel. We have just started an in-house graduate programme where staff can study as they work to achieve real, transferrable skills while being paid a salary. This way, the team can help ensure that all elements of the restaurant meet, anticipate and exceed the changing needs of our diners.”

The Sharpe brothers come from a family steeped in the business of food, farming and hospitality. Brady Quality Meats was set up by the family and mum, Mary, is a third-generation publican at Brady’s Bar in Waterford, as well as the producer of ‘Irish Gourmet Butter’. The boys grew up helping in these businesses from an early age. Later,

AFFAIR

Harrison did his degree in culinary arts and Ronan in hospitality management, both studying at the Waterford Institute of Technology.

Other developments at Elbow Lane include the creation of a fermentation room where Harrison can develop more of the by-products of the Brewery to enhance his dishes. This includes not only vinegar, mead, kombucha and malt expressions, but also ingredients like miso and soy. Sustainability is also at the heart of the operation at Elbow Lane; Harrison has developed strong relationships with local growers and vegetables are increasingly taking more of the limelight on his plates.

“Harrison is the best chef I know and I am enormously proud to be working alongside him"

LVA

PUBLICANS FROM ACROSS THE COUNTY TURNED OUT FOR THE LVA’S FIRST BBQ SINCE 2019 AT ANGLESEA HOUSE

celebrates

Brian McCarthy, Red Cow Moran Hotel, Conor Duggan, Harbour Bar, John Duggan, The Martello and Derek Stanley, The Boomerang, Bray

Peter Morrissey, Bernice, Charlie and Alison Chawke, Chawke Pub Group and Tommy Moran, Red Cow Moran Group

Sarah Branagan, Ollie Grimes, Anna Reade and Gary Coleman, The Snug, Skerries

Jack Brennan, The Storyteller, Rory O’Coileainn, Lorcan, Pearse & Thomas Gibney, Gibney’s, Malahide

Katie McGill, James Hayde, Michelle & Danielle McGill and Steven Haines, The Iveagh Garden Hotel

Gillian Knight, Jimmy Healy and Nadia Abuzenen, Licensed Vintners Association

Katie O’Reilly, Ellen Heneghan and Clodagh Purcell, The Merry Ploughboy, Rathfarnham

Gillian Murphy-Prendergast & Luke Prendergast, Murphy’s of Rathmines; Chloe & Brian Devitt and Katherine Boyle, The Two Sisters, Terenure

In Conversation with…

CONGRATULATIONS ON THE NEW ROLE. HOW ARE YOU FEELING ABOUT IT?

I’m really looking forward to representing our LVA members. To be elected Chair after serving as Vice Chair is an honour, as was getting the opportunity to work alongside Alison Kealy [previous Chair]. I gained so much experience from her and from working with the Board and the Council. I also have to mention the team at Anglesea House, who make sure everything runs seamlessly. I’ve been surrounded by good people and that will only continue.

WHAT’S YOUR EXPERIENCE IN THE INDUSTRY?

I’ve worked in both retail and hospitality from a young age. Luke, my dad, founded The Moriarty Group in 1987. Today, it comprises three supermarkets and two four-star hotels – the Bracken Court Hotel in Balbriggan and the Court Yard Hotel in Leixlip. When we opened the Bracken Court in 2000, my dad turned to me and said, it’s time you learned the hospitality trade. So I completed a Failte Ireland course and was also lucky enough to do a Diploma in Hospitality Management at Cornell University in the US. Having such a wide-ranging experience from an early age has definitely shaped the type of business woman I am today.

WHAT ROLE DO YOU HOLD AT THE MOMENT?

For the past four years, I’ve held the role of Group Operations Director. We’re currently in a period of transition to allow me to take over as Managing Director, but that will be a phased process and Luke will still be very much involved in the Group. Previous to that, I was Group Hotel Director and before that, I was an Area Manager. I’ve gained a huge amount of experience from those roles and from the managers that have worked with us for almost 40 years. Dad’s ethos has always been that once you show loyalty to your staff, you’ll get it back. He has a real passion for people and that’s something I’ve learned from him. My late mother also had a huge influence on the type of person I am today. You can’t mention one without the other!

WHAT DO YOU SEE AS THE MAIN CHALLENGES FACING THE INDUSTRY?

The challenges businesses are facing are around inflation and rising energy costs. I’ve never seen so many letters and emails coming across my desk referring to food and beverage increases. Our political focus is in relation to VAT, which is expected to go up to 13.5% in September. An increase will only add to inflation;

9% is the international competitive rate so we’re going to fight to retain that. We fully appreciate the extension of the 9% rate, but believe a hike to 13.5% will create an extremely tough trading environment for businesses only now getting back to normal after the pandemic. It’ll be a hard fight this time around, but we’ll fight hard to try and maintain the 9%.

WHAT WILL YOU BE LOBBYING FOR IN OCTOBER’S BUDGET?

We’ll be lobbying to ensure excise doesn’t increase. We have one of the highest levels of alcohol excise in Europe. Reducing excise duty would go some way towards helping pubs absorb all the other inflationary costs they’re currently faced with. We’re also focused on the Sale of Alcohol Bill, which is a welcome generational change. There are lots of things we like about the Bill - extension of trading hours, nightlife permits etc. There is a tourism ask to go that little bit later in our pubs, similar to what we see in Europe. We are however uncomfortable with the deregulation of licences, which we feel will be devastating to rural competition and rural pubs. It would allow anyone to apply for a pub licence, which would effectively wipe out the value of thousands of rural pubs. Since 2005, one in five pubs in Ireland have closed and the majority of these have been in rural areas. We’re very concerned that licence deregulation will further accelerate this.

AT THE END OF YOUR TERM, WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO HAVE ACHIEVED?

There isn’t one particular thing that I would like to do or change. I want to continue to do successfully what the LVA has done for a long time for its members, which is tackling any social and cultural changes that may arise. The LVA will continue to support its members through different initiatives that suit their business demands including the likes of our food seminars, our courses and our HR advisory service, organised by the LVA’s HR Advisor, Gillian Knight. I’m honoured to represent Dublin pubs and will do all I can to continue the LVA’s legacy and support its efforts to protect and promote the amazing hospitality provided by all our members across the capital.

THE NEWLY-ELECTED CHAIR OF THE LICENSED VINTNERS ASSOCIATION (LVA) SETS OUT WHAT SHE HOPES TO ACHIEVE IN THE YEAR AHEAD

"Having such a wide-ranging experience from an early age has definitely shaped the type of business woman I am today"

MICHELLE AND GARETH MCALLISTER HAVE HIGH HOPES FOR IRELAND’S FIRST ZERO-EMISSIONS DISTILLERY

Five years ago, Michelle and Gareth McAllister decided they’d like to open a distillery in the West of Ireland. Living and working in Hong Kong at the time, the distillery was to be the couple’s retirement project – hopefully a successful venture but primarily a project that would allow them to celebrate their passion for Irish craft spirits. Building the brand came first and such was its success that any thoughts of retirement were quickly put to bed. In 2021, the duo launched their first products – Clan Colla Irish Whiskey, UAIS Irish Whiskey and Xin Gin. The latter was awarded a Masters Medal at The Global Gin Masters 2023, while earlier this year, Clan Colla 11 Year Old Blend was named category winner for Best Limited Blend at the World Whiskey Awards.

The original plan, says Gareth, was to remain in Hong Kong. “There are huge opportunities across Asia for Irish brands. But then Covid happened, so we decided to accelerate the planning and design of the distillery. Two years ago, we launched the products and construction on the distillery began, almost in the same week. Everything has happened quite quickly; we’ve taken on 22 people at the distillery and we’re currently exporting to over 12 countries.”

Ahascragh Distillery, located 11km from Ballinasloe in east Galway, has been built within a restored nineteenth century mill. It’s powered completely by renewable energy; there will

be no fossil fuels or gas burnt to drive the spirit production process. The goal is to produce zero emissions, says Michelle. “The distillery is powered by renewable energy – wind, solar and coming soon, hydro, using heat pump technology and an energy efficient storage system. From the start, we wanted to be as sustainable as possible. We never wanted to buy a site and build a distillery from scratch in a field, although in hindsight it might have been easier! We always thought, there are so many beautiful buildings in Ireland, why don’t we look into repurposing one of them.” The Old Mill, the home of Ahascragh Distillery, was originally hydro powered. “Once we saw the old mill, we couldn’t do anything but go to zero emissions with it. It would have been a mistake to even try and put in a chimney or burn fossil fuels in it. Our aim was very much to bring it back to where it was in the 19th century.” Tours at the distillery began at the start of July. “It was a total surprise to me, but we’ve had several visitors that aren’t drinkers but came to take a look at the technology we’re using,” says Michelle. Heat is delivered to the distillery through heat pumps, meaning there are no flue-related emissions or impacts on the local environment. Thanks to the heat pump design, heat recovery and thermal storage, energy inputs to the distillery are a third than that of traditional technology. Much of the original machinery and wooden beams in the building have been restored. “Very high temperature heat pumps are a

"We’ve had several visitors that aren’t drinkers but came to take a look at the technology we’re using"

pretty common technology, but they’re not used in the distilling industry. What we’ve achieved at Ahascragh is a first for Ireland and the UK. It’s a carbon neutral facility and it means consumers of our products can be reassured that we haven’t damaged the local environment during the manufacturing process. We’re seeing a growing consciousness around sustainability and it’s definitely attracting visitors.”

The distillery is fully automated, a move that will keep labour costs down, says Gareth. “Two operators can run the whole distillery on an iPad. We obviously still need staff for the café, the visitor centre etc and that has been a challenge, but we have a fantastic team of 22 on board now. We expect to double that figure by this time next year.” Gareth and Michelle recently launched a Seedrs fundraising campaign, allowing the public to own shares in the distillery from as little as €12.50. “When we checked this morning, we were up to 98% funded so we expect to be at 100% soon. Funds will be used to

restore the five-storey grain building on the site. We’re going to create a museum celebrating the history of the Old Mill, along with an AV visitor experience that explains the process of making whiskey and gin.”

Production of the three brands and construction on the distillery may have been fast, but the planning permission process has been anything but. Getting planning permission on the café at the distillery took the best part of a year, says Gareth. “Up until fairly recently, we were the only café for miles in this area. We were providing an outside service to the local community during Covid, it was a lifeline for many during that period. So we were surprised how difficult the process was.” The couple are currently seeking planning permission for warehousing on the site. “We’re producing a whiskey that needs to mature in a warehouse for a number of years and so far, we have been refused three times. It’s scandalous how we have been treated and I have no problem

Proud Sponsor of Ireland's Afternoon Tea Hotel Award

going on record saying that. By opening the distillery, we’re bringing employment to the local community and we’re restoring old buildings. The café, which was previously a shoe store, stood derelict for 15 years before we restored it. We’re also bringing footfall into the area that benefits other businesses. During construction, we provided over 30 jobs. You would think all that would be seen positively.”

If permission on warehousing fails to come through, the couple will be forced to send casks to the east coast of Ireland. “Counties likes Waterford and Wexford are very open to warehouses being used for whiskey maturation. That would mean jobs leaving Galway and going elsewhere. We would also be shipping our products across the country, which is bad for the environment and means additional costs. Every option we’ve put forward in relation to warehousing has been turned down. Planners are just not held accountable for the decisions they make,” says Gareth.

Building and opening a distillery definitely isn’t for the fainthearted, says Michelle. “Nothing has been easy. There

are so many hoops to jump through, but we’re getting there. Our tours are going well, we have a good mix of Irish and international visitors coming through and we want to really push those international visitor numbers for the rest of the year. From the outset, the aim was to put Ahascragh on the map, making the village and not just the distillery, into a destination. I think we’re achieving that.” Brand development is also top of the priority list, says Gareth. “We want to see product growth and for that growth to create employment in the area. From the beginning, we set out to protect the future legacy of the old mill and to ensure that those who have helped us in terms of investment get a good return. We know we’ve got great products; now it’s time to scale the business.”

"Every option we’ve put forward in relation to warehousing has been turned down. Planners are just not held accountable for the decisions they make"

SOLUTIONS FROM QUICKTIPS MAKE IT EASIER FOR HOSPITALITY STAFF TO RECEIVE TIPS AND FOR EMPLOYERS TO RETAIN STAFF

Tipped for the TOP

On the 1st of December 2022, the Payment of Wages (Amendment) (Tips and Gratuities) Act came into effect. The legislation gave employees legal rights over the payment of tips and put the onus on employers to clearly display their policy on tips and service charges. QuickTips, an Irish start-up that has developed a new cashless method of sending tips, can help employers on that journey. “By using a system like ours, you can ensure that all staff members are getting 100% of net tips and that you’re therefore adhering to the new legislation,” said QuickTips Co-Founder Mark Cox.

Inspiration for QuickTips struck during Covid, at a time when food and drink deliveries were at their peak. “Myself and QuickTips Co-Founder Sean Kelly were having a cup of tea in the office one day. He mentioned that every time a delivery driver came to the door, he felt bad that he couldn’t tip them. That got us thinking so we investigated the idea and developed a solution. After initial testing and some more development, we went live with QuickTips a few months ago. So far, industry feedback has been excellent. There’s definitely a demand for this type of easy to use, cost efficient product that takes the complexity out of ensuring staff receive all their tips.” Support from Kildare’s Local Enterprise Office has helped the start-up on its journey. “They have been brilliant. Without their support, we wouldn’t be where we are today.”

Based out of MERITS tech hub in Naas, QuickTips is helping salons, coffee shops, pubs, restaurants and hotels provide a transparent tipping culture through its merchant business portal. The start-up is powered by Airwallex and when hospitality businesses sign up to QuickTips, they gain access to a full suite of digital products from the fintech bank. It’s a product that’s been designed with full transparency in mind, says Mark. “Hospitality business owners can manage their staff tips separate to their business. Digital tips stay away from your cash flow or banking infrastructure, so we’ve made it really simple to adhere to the new legislation.”

Research conducted by QuickTips has found that staff

Mark Cox, Co-Founder, QuickTips

using the start up’s solution have seen a 60% increase in tips. “Hospitality is a tough industry to operate in. A lack of skills is making it difficult for employers to find and retain staff. Small businesses in particular can’t afford to pay higher wage bills on top of increased food and energy costs. If staff are seeing a 50-60% increase in tips, they’re less likely to be asking their manager for a wage increase. They’re also less likely to leave.”

QuickTips, who is sponsoring this year’s Virgin Media Business Gold Medal Awards, has its sights set on global expansion. “For the rest of this year, we’re very much focused on getting more Irish businesses on board, increasing our transactions and validating the product in different areas.

From 2024, we’re planning on launching into the UK, the US and other European countries. There is so much potential with this solution and we’re excited to see what the future holds.”

"Digital tips stay away from your cash flow or banking infrastructure, so we’ve made it really simple to adhere to the new legislation”

When life gives you Lemons

NOEL ANDERSON’S LATEST VENTURE, LITTLE LEMON ON ROYAL HIBERNIAN WAY, IS ABOUT TO OPEN

It’s been a busy few months for Noel Anderson. The face behind Lemon & Duke, The Bridge 1859 and The Blackrock is about to open Little Lemon, just over the way from Lemon & Duke on Royal Hibernian Way. Described as a Mediterranean inspired bar and small plates restaurant, Little Lemon will be a smaller offering than its adjacent big sister. “It’ll seat about 50-60 inside, with 15-20 seats outside during the summer. The new bar will allow us to cross-sell; it frustrates me when we have to turn people away from Lemon & Duke. Now, we’ll be able to direct them across to Little Lemon and vice versa,” says Noel. It’s all about maximising trade at both venues, with the two front of house teams liaising with each other to boost numbers. “We’re confident that we made the right move in opening a second venue in the area. When the unit beside us became available, it was either we let someone else come in or we look at doing something ourselves. There’s a real buzz around Royal Hibernian Way at the moment

and that's good for trade. I’m a firm believer in the more good things around you, the better your own business will be.”

Little Lemon will offer Mediterranean-style small plates and an extensive drinks menu. “We didn’t want to limit ourselves by sticking with just Spanish or Italian food; our menu will include dishes from several countries and will feature local, fresh produce. It will also be complemented by bespoke cocktails and a very good wine list. When I left school, I didn’t get the chance to travel like a lot of my friends at the time. Now, every chance I get I go abroad and that’s where inspiration for Little Lemon came from. We’re really excited about it; there are so many opportunities with this kind of bar.”

Business is good across all sites, says Noel. Last year, Noel along with Seán O’Brien, Jamie Heaslip and Rob and Dave Kearney purchased The Blackrock on Dublin’s southside. Formerly Three Tun Tavern – the first Wetherspoons to open in the Republic of Ireland in 2014 – the pub got off to a tricky start. “Initially it was difficult to find chefs but in the past few months, a new chef has taken over at The Blackrock and he’s really put his stamp on the menu. Thankfully, recruitment isn’t as much of an issue for us as it was 12 or 18 months ago. Across all businesses, staff retention is good; we pay pretty well and we look after our staff. We provide them with opportunities

for career advancement and actually, some of our supervisors at Lemon and Duke will be promoted to management level at Little Lemon. We’ll be kicking off with a relatively experienced team at the new venue, which should help make the opening that bit smoother.”

June’s spell of good weather brought with it an unpleasant side effect – dirtier than normal streets across Dublin city. The state of our capital’s streets and the lack of cleaning undertaken by Dublin City Council is something Noel has been vocal about for several years. “It’s not just about our dirty streets. It’s the fact that the Gardai don’t have enough resources and so parts of the city feel unsafe to walk down. These issues have never been addressed properly. If you were walking home from a nightclub at 4am in Barcelona, you’d see workers out powerhosing the streets. I don’t understand why we can’t get the simple things right.” As a previous Chairman of the LVA, Noel still sits on the board. “For the first time ever, we’re asking government to allocate more funds to Dublin City Council and to An Garda Siochana. The truth is, Dublin is dirty and it’s not safe. We’re a wealthy country and yet when tourists visit, they’re seeing filthy streets and crime taking place in broad daylight. More policing is needed at Pearse St and Kevin St Garda Stations and Dublin City Council obviously needs more resourcing in terms of power hosing and bins etc. There’s also an educational piece missing in this country too around littering and respecting the environment.” If areas in Dublin like Blackrock or Clontarf were subject to the same level of abandonment there would be uproar, says Noel. “Those villages have TD’s that work hard to ensure standards are maintained but there’s no real political influence in the centre of town. It’s

disheartening to think the first thing visitors to the city see are dirty streets.”

From September, the hospitality VAT rate is expected to return to the standard 13.5% rate. In a high inflationary environment, a VAT increase will only drive costs up for everyone says Noel. “I don’t think the government understands that if the VAT rate returns to 13.5%, that’s a direct tax on the consumer. It makes no sense to increase VAT when it’s already high and at 13.5%, we would have one of the highest rates in Europe. if you’re trying to keep inflation under control, the last thing you do is light a match under it. The hospitality industry is performing well, so why mess with something that’s working?”

Minister for Justice Helen McEntee recently announced she intends to reform Ireland’s insurance system by rebalancing the duty of care for businesses, community groups and clubs. Owners and operators must keep customers safe she said, but people must also take personal responsibility. It’s a step in the right direction says Noel, but more is needed if meaningful progress is to be made. “I’m in business 14 years and insurance has always been one of the main issues for me. The Alliance for Insurance Reform has set out 10 key asks and many of them haven’t been addressed. When it comes to insurance reform in this country, it feels like it’s a constant talking shop rather than proper action. Premiums haven’t really come down and the only way they will come down is if more competition is brought into the market. That will only happen if international insurers feel that Ireland is a place they can trade in. We’re a long way from that.”

In Ireland, true reform is often a painstakingly slow process. Does it get frustrating? “Yes! It's exhausting. I describe it as being like Groundhog Day. If you give up though, how are you going to put food on the table and pay for your kid’s education? You have to keep pushing and hope that eventually the penny drops and someone does something of value.” With Little Lemon about to open, the rest of 2023 looks promising. “I’m generally a positive person. We’ve had a very tricky few years and I think everyone in the industry hopes things will never be as bad as that again. If we can get through the pandemic, we can get through anything.”

"Now, every chance I get I go abroad and that’s where inspiration for Little Lemon came from. We’re really excited about it; there are so many opportunities with this kind of bar "

GET LUCKY

LUCKY SAINT FOUNDER

LUKE BOASE IS ON A MISSION TO CHANGE HOW WE VIEW ALCOHOL FREE BEER

WHAT’S THE MARKET LIKE FOR NON-ALCOHOLIC BEER?

It’s a category that’s in rapid growth. Volumes have tripled between 2017 and 2021 but in saying that, it only makes up about 2% of total beer sales in the UK. In Ireland, it’s 1.5%. In other European countries, alcohol free beer can be anywhere up to 15% of total beer sales. Right now, Ireland and the UK might be at the lower end of the scale but we’re seeing a huge trend in moderation at the moment; consumers' attitudes towards alcohol and drinking are changing. People want to experience and take part in the social occasions that have traditionally centred around alcohol, but they don’t necessarily want to drink alcohol. In the UK and in Ireland, I think the category will reach 10%.

YOU ESTABLISHED THE BRAND IN THE UK IN 2018.

HOW’S BUSINESS GOING?

Really good. The brand is performing well across both the on and off trade. We’re the UK’s first-ever official beer of Dry January and we’ve partnered with Mental Health First Aid England (MHFA England), showing our commitment to championing good mental health in hospitality and retail. We’ve also opened our own pub, also called The Lucky Saint, in Marylebone in London where we serve both alcohol free drinks and alcoholic drinks. The idea was to create a space where everyone is welcome. Just last week, we were named ‘Drinks Brand of the Year’ at the Grocer Gold Awards. We were up against some really stiff competition, including brands like Madri and Old Speckled Hen.

WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THAT WIN TO?

I think it comes down to a few things. Since we established the brand in 2018, we’ve grown to become the UK’s number one dedicated alcohol free beer brand. A survey we carried out found that 63% of consumers who bought Lucky Saint in a bar, pub or restaurant went on to buy it in a supermarket. I think we’ve also worked really hard to make alcohol free beer more socially acceptable through our marketing campaigns.

HOW’S THE LAUNCH IN IRELAND GOING?

It’s early days for us in Ireland, but everything that we’ve seen pre-launch from a marketing category perspective is almost identical to the UK. I think Ireland is probably a couple of years behind where the UK is now but the moderation trend is very evident - new research shows that one in three Irish people plan to drink non-alcoholic drinks in the next 12 months.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO LAUNCH AN ALCOHOL FREE BEER?

Establishing a start-up really appealed to me. More specifically, I could see that the alcohol free category was an interesting and growing market. I wasn’t a consumer of it though, because I felt there wasn’t a bottled beer good enough to bring me into the category. So I asked myself two questions and set about trying to answer them - is it possible to brew an alcohol free beer that will bring people into the category based on quality and is it possible to build a brand that will make people feel positive about that choice?

HOW DIFFICULT WAS IT TO GET THE TASTE YOU WERE AIMING FOR?

It was extremely difficult! I ended up spending the next two years working with six different breweries in three different countries, trying to figure out how to brew great tasting alcohol free beer. It was much harder than I thought it would be. But if it was easy everyone would be doing it, right?

WHERE IN IRELAND IS LUCKY SAINT AVAILABLE?

We’re in a number of sites already including Dede, The Blackrock, Lotts & Co and we’re available at a number of Fresh stores. Our importer is Unify Brands and we’re very pleased to have brought on La Rousse as our first wholesaler.

WHAT IS YOUR CORE DEMOGRAPHIC?

It's amazingly broad. I would say our core demographic is 35-45 years of age. We’re also seeing huge growth

"We've worked really hard to make alcohol free beer more socially acceptable through our marketing campaigns"

amongst younger consumers who are rapidly moderating their drinking habits. I think the reason we hit such a broad spectrum is down to our focus on quality. We’re not aiming to align with any particular demographic; first and foremost, we’re aligning ourselves with quality. It all comes back to taste; it’s the number one driver of decisionmaking for consumers when it comes to purchasing alcohol free beer.

LAST YEAR, YOU ANNOUNCED THAT LUCKY SAINT HAD ACHIEVED B CORP CERTIFICATION. HOW IMPORTANT WAS THAT FOR THE COMPANY?

The B Corp certification is the result of the work we’ve done around sustainability and the culture we’re building. It’s really important to us that we build a sustainable business in the right way. I want to build a brand that will be here for the next 100 years; every decision we make is driven by that. One of our mantras is to make sustainability second nature and I think achieving B Corp demonstrates that we’re doing a good job at the things that are important to us.

DO YOU HAVE PLANS TO LAUNCH INTO OTHER REGIONS?

We’ve been quite methodical so far; we spent four years building the brand at home and Ireland is our first foray outside the UK. We intend to launch into other European markets, but it’s very much one thing at a time. Getting Ireland right is really important to us. We want it to be as successful as possible before we launch into any other countries.

WHAT ARE YOUR AMBITIONS?

To build the world’s defining alcohol free brand. I’m not saying we want to be bigger than some of the more mainstream, wellestablished brands, but our mission is to build a brand that’s synonymous with the category. We aim to be as synonymous with alcohol free beer as Guinness is with stout.

For all new stockist enquiries please contact James Clark, International Sales at Lucky Saint - james@luckysaint.co or call +44 (0) 780806030

"We aim to be as synonymous with alcohol free beer as Guinness is with stout"

MAKING THE CASE for… Poitín

Poitín, the storied Irish moonshine, has long been an integral part of the nation's drinking culture. The term comes from the Irish word pota, describing a small pot historically used for distilling which was done mostly by women in rural households. Back in 1661, the British crown outlawed poitín due to its so-called potency but in reality, it was due to the difficulties in enforcing tax regulations in its small-scale domestic production. The decision was also made in an effort to back the large whiskey companies, as well as part of its oppressive politics toward Irish culture.

However, the 300-year ban did little to put a stop to poitín production. The rebel spirit was forced underground, recipes were passed on secretly through generations and over the years, the quality dropped as it was heavily dependent on the skills of a few people making it illegally, often bringing it to a high, unpalatable alcohol content. Even though the Irish government lifted the ban in 1997 and accorded poitín protected Geographical Indication Status in 2008, overcoming misconceptions and misinformation around the infamous spirit is not without its challenges.

The growing popularity of poitín in the last decade is down to several factors. Consumers are becoming more interested in unique, locallyproduced, small-batch artisanal products and poitín, as one of the oldest spirits in the world, appeals to those who’re seeking to explore authentic, culturally significant alcoholic beverages. Lately we witnessed distilleries

experimenting and receiving awards for their poitín – these accolades help to generate interest and boost its reputation. The rise of cocktail culture plays a major part in poitín’s resurgence. Bartenders are continually seeking new and distinctive ingredients to create innovative cocktails. Its flavour profile can vary depending on the raw material and the distillation process. In accordance with the Irish poitín technical file, it can be made from cereals, grain, whey, sugar beet, molasses and potatoes. Typically, it carries a robust taste with some underlying sweetness and fruitiness, notably if made from malted barley. Molasses, such as that derived from beetroot, will add a certain funkiness, akin to agricole rum. Unlike whiskey, poitín can’t be aged more than 10 weeks before bottling which allows it to retain its character, slightly influenced and softened from the wood - a good example being first fill peated whiskey barrels. As its a white spirit with an alcohol content between 40-90%, poitín can be easily infused with flavours of fruits, spices and other culinary ingredients.

Once confined to the shadows, poitín has emerged as a symbol of Ireland's enduring spirit and cultural heritage. It’s hard to predict whether it will ever become recognisable in the international markets, but we can safely say there are exciting times ahead.

at BAR 1661

ONCE CONFINED TO THE SHADOWS, POITÍN HAS EMERGED AS A SYMBOL OF IRELAND'S ENDURING SPIRIT AND CULTURAL HERITAGE, WRITES IVANA MARESIC

Ivana Maresic is Beverage Director

"Unlike whiskey, poitín can be aged more than 10 weeks before bottling which allows it to retain its character"

MAKING THE CASE for…

PISCO WON'T BE COMING OFF THE PALADAR MENU ANYTIME SOON, WRITES ANDY FERREIRA

Paladar is a Latin American-inspired cocktail bar and kitchen that pays homage to this vast and fascinating region. With over 20 countries and a huge variety of products, it was always going to be essential we had a clear vision for our food and beverage offering. Our cocktail menu consists of two sections – classics and rotational. Latin American spirits form the base for some of the world's most popular cocktails such as mojito, daiquiri, caipirinha and of course, the much-loved margarita. These all feature in our classics section, while our rotational cocktails are constantly changing and offer our guests something new.

There are three categories of spirits in Latin America – agave, sugar cane and the one we'll discuss more in-depth, grape. Like all spirit producers, Ireland included, it's the people, the heritage and the traditions behind these spirits that make them so special and an essential part of any good back bar. The agave and sugar cane plants are responsible for the global goliaths that are tequila, mezcal and rum, spirits that are overtaking vodka and whiskey in popularity. The grape category is home to pisco which is still relatively small, certainly in Ireland, but it's a wonderfully versatile spirit. Pisco is a South American brandy distilled from fermented grape juice using specific varieties of grapes. It has been produced in Peru and Chile for centuries and both countries lay claim to have invented it. Ironically there are similarities to the history of Irish whiskey, with pisco going through turbulent stages in its history before increased global popularity led to a golden age of demand.

The history of pisco is very complex and there are various claims to the origin of the spirit. It was developed by Spanish settlers as an alternative to Spanish brandy. In the 16th century, they brought grape vines to South America to make their own wine; the vines absolutely loved the climate. Shipments came through the Peruvian port town of Pisco and originally, the spirit was used to fortify the wine and prevent oxidation. However, it wasn't long before pisco production exploded. Peruvian and Chilean pisco are actually quite different. The Peruvian regulations concerning the production of pisco are relatively simple and traditional; they are very strict and forbid the addition of any extra ingredients during distillation. Peruvian pisco is made from a mostly indigenous grape variety, while the majority of Chilean pisco is made from the Muscat grape.

By far the most popular way to enjoy pisco is a Pisco Sour. Like so many classic cocktail origin stories, the history is a bit sketchy but the most likely story involves an American called Victor Morris who moved to Peru to get involved in the mining trade. He ended up opening a bar called the Morris Bar and made the first Pisco Sour as an alternative to the Whiskey Sour in 1903. Another very popular drink, especially in Chile is the Piscola, which is made from pisco and coke, their version of a brandy and coke. We have a lot of Latin American customers in Paladar and a big part of what we do is to try and offer our guests a small taste of home. The Piscola certainly ticks that box. With its versatility and wonderful earthy notes, pisco will always feature very strongly in our bar.

Andy Ferreira is Managing Partner at Cask and Co-Owner of Paladar

"The history of pisco is very complex and there are various claims to the origin of the spirit"

CELEBRATE CELEBRATE

There are several factors you must take into consideration when putting a wine list together. First is the style and theme of the restaurant as that’s the audience you are speaking to. The audience we speak to in West is a sophisticated diner. The wine list should mirror the restaurant’s tone and offering. An appropriate diversity of wine will cater to whatever items you have on your menu. Naturally, the wellversed sommelier will assist with the food and wine pairing. In our upscale casual dining space, The Pins Gastro Bar, we offer a very concise selection from the master list to suit our guests who want to simply enjoy a great glass of wine or our food offering.

All of the above is achieved within the realms of cost – we always want to give our guests good value, hence we work with a lower markup than the majority of restaurants. A massive amount of hours go into sourcing our wines to ensure we can offer the very best quality at excellent value. This is where West and The Twelve differentiate themselves from many other restaurants and hotels.

Every single wine is tasted and it must fit a very broad price category in order to make the listing. Then tasting notes are added, but in a non-techy manner. Once listed, it must become a contributor to The Wine Experience we strive to offer.

PRESENTATION

The wine list is then presented in a very educational manner. For example, we categorise into grape varietal rather than region. This requires a lot of knowledge but the benefit is that our guests are steered to try something they would not have ever considered and as a result, they actually learn something and more importantly, leave with a memory. If a restaurant can succeed in creating a memorable experience for its

FERGUS O' HALLORAN KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT PUTTING TOGETHER A GOOD WINE LIST

guests, then it has done something very special. This is what we strive for with our wine program in The Twelve.

Naturally, we have to educate our team. Many have completed wine courses; we cover the cost of this training and it’s open to every team member in The Twelve, not just the food and beverage team. Maybe this is also one of the reasons we’re known as ‘Ireland’s wine hotel’.

SOURCING

To date, we have sourced 17 wines from Le Marche in Italy and Rueda in Spain, from vineyards focused on sustainability and organic practises. With over 400 labels on our program, these self-imported wines are among our highest volume of sales and that’s because they’re super tasty and very reasonably priced. As we use the Coravin system, our guests can taste any of our entire listing by the glass and we don't have to worry about the loss of the rest of the bottle. Why not have a glass of Chateau Y’Quem tonight? Go on!

It’s important that the wine is true to its varietal character, region and vintage, in that order and then it's up to the winemaker to add their personal signature. Then, it's down to how it's priced and whether it’s enjoyed on its own or paired with one of our dishes. We may even create a dish to pair with it, thus the wine gets to lead the way.

WINE REGIONS

I don’t have a favourite wine or region, as there are so many yet to discover. Every wine region is beautiful. Picture sunshine, rolling hills, green, flat terrain, rolling up to rivers, the seasonal colour changes of the leaves, dryness even. Just driving through a region that grows grapes is exhilarating to me. The colours, undulations and tapestries of plantings; all are like a poem speaking with images rather than words. I’ve loved so many regions in France and the history and tradition that go with the regions. I’ve loved Napa and the creativity behind its wine makers and even the opulence of the wineries, even Sonoma, but then go to Oregon and it’s the complete opposite.

I’ve felt personally invested with the strive for acclaim of the Washington region and even more so of Niagara and the B.C wine regions of Canada. Portugal has a beautiful soul. Spain offers such diversity. Italy offers

it all. South Africa is mind blowing and relatively new. The list goes on and on. More often than not, an indelible memory is created by virtue of the people I have travelled with to wine regions and that will put it top of the list for a while. I have travelled to other regions such as Eastern Europe, Australia and Argentina via print and digital. So, my next visit has to be to Georgia. I know for sure that I will never find what I am looking for.

CUSTOMER PREFERENCE

What customers are ordering is very diverse and that’s a really good thing, as this is what we offer our guests. If all wines on the programme were not moving to some degree, we would have it wrong. In terms of volume, the price range is €30 to €55 and regions are mainly Italy, Spain and France in that order. Grape varietals are not really the usual four suspects, as we offer so many more to be explored.

GOLD MEDAL AWARDS

We were lucky enough to be named Ireland’s Best Wine Experience at the 2022 Gold Medal Awards. Over the past month or so, the team at West have been sourcing and tasting wines to push the boat out for our guests on our tasting menus. We’ve spent about 200 hours collectively in finding new wines for our ‘by the glass’ program. It would be wonderful to have this recognised again by the Gold Medal jury. Let me sneak in a mention of our October Champagne Dinner – watch for the ticket release as you don’t want to miss this one! What more can I say other than at the Twelve, we really love wine! As we say here, Celebrate Food, Celebrate Wine, Celebrate Life…

Fergus O'Halloran is Managing Director at The Twelve Hotel

"Every single wine is tasted and it must fit a very broad price category in order to make the listing"

SUPERSONIC SUMMER

IRISH MIXED DRINKS COMPANY POACHERS HAS LAUNCHED TWO NEW SODAS, IDEAL FOR QUENCHING YOUR THIRST THIS SUMMER

Sodas

The Supersonic Summer Sodas from Poachers include two flavours –Grapefruit Soda with Irish Sea Salt and Lemon Soda with Irish Mint. Both are delicious on their own or paired with tequila, vodka or whiskey. Like all products, the new sodas are made and bottled in Co Wexford. The Grapefruit Soda is made with Achill Island Sea Salt and the Lemon Soda features mint grown on the Poachers site in the sunny South East.

“We are delighted to introduce our Supersonic Summer Sodas which now sees our range expanded to nine premium, sustainably made mixers all featuring native Irish ingredients. The new sodas are ideal on their own over ice as a refreshing summer cooldown. Alternatively, the Grapefruit Soda partners with the best tequila for a Paloma with an Irish twist. Or try the Lemon Soda for in

a delicious all Irish Whiskey Smash,” said Brendan Colbert, Founder, Poachers. In keeping with Poachers' colourful branding, the new products feature stylish bright labels in an abstract print.

The Supersonic Summer Sodas are available from retail stores such as Mortons, Lotts & Co., Fallon & Byrne, Nolans, Brown Thomas, Evergreen, McCambridges and in all the best bars, hotels and restaurants. They’re also available to purchase online at www.poachersdrinks.com /@poachersdrinks.com

"

The new sodas are ideal on their own over ice as a refreshing summer cooldown"

SIX GENERATIONS AND 170 YEARS IN THE MAKING

Síolta Mhicil Cask Ownership Offering

As well as producing Galway's first whiskey in over 100 years, we also make awardwinning Irish Gin, Poitín and Cream Liqueur. Our spirits are crafted with passion and dedication, ensuring that each bottle delivers an exceptional drinking experience.