Summer 2022
GET
THREE OF IRELAND’S TOP CRAFT BREWERIES TALK ABOUT THEIR PLANS FOR GROWTH, CHALLENGES AROUND EXPORTS AND WHY IT’S ALL ABOUT THE PERFECT BREW
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CONTENTS
Contents Summer 2022 4
NEWS
10 IN THE PINK
14
As istil 38 begins to make its mark, Shane Davey talks about the challenges of launching a new vodka in the Irish market
14
ELBOW LANE Probably the smallest brewery in Ireland, Elbow Lane in Cork has announced it’s doubling its brewing capacity with match-funding from Cork City’s Local Enterprise Office
16 16
BALLYKILCAVAN Located just outside Stradbally in Co Laois, Ballykilcavan Farm & Brewery
18
RYE RIVER BREWING COMPANY
20
Although export and domestic volume is up, Rye River Brewing Company remains very much an independent craft brewer
20 LAST ORDERS
sits in prime malting barley
A new venue on St Stephen’s
growing area, perfect for
Green is setting ‘The Bar’ for
making beer
a great night out in Dublin L IC E N SIN GWORLD. I E 1
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EDITOR'S LETTER
Staff shortages across the industry are forcing some pubs to close part of the week. Both the Licensed Vintners Association (LVA) and the Vintners Federation of Ireland (VFI) have stated that some of their members are operating on a five day basis due to a lack of staff. Since the pandemic began, it’s estimated that one-third of pub staff exited the sector. In order to get numbers back up, Damien English, Minister of State for Business, Employment and Retail has stated that more than 40,000 non-EU workers will be granted work permits this year in a bid to ease pressures in the labour market. If the work permits are granted, this would be a considerable increase on the 16,275 permits provided in 2021. TU Dublin’s School of Culinary Arts and Food Technology has also announced the launch of its new part-time blended Postgraduate Diploma in Global Food and Drink Leadership. Kicking off in September 2022, the new programme is aimed at food and beverage sector professionals that want to upskill in areas like sustainability and food and beverage innovation management. The first ever apprenticeship to train a new generation of bar managers has also been launched, developed by The Vintners’ Federation of Ireland (VFI) and Griffith College, with the support of Solas. The Bar Manager Apprenticeship Degree is a work-based learning programme where apprentices will be able to work, earn and learn to become fully-qualified bar managers. Students already working in the bar trade are sponsored by their employer to develop the broad range of skills necessary to operate at the highest level in the industry, spending one day a week in lectures over three years. School leavers with experience in the bar trade and career changers are also eligible. Employers are eligible for a grant, per registered apprentice and applications are now open for the September intake. Employers can register interest at: https://content.griffith.ie/bar-management-expression-ofinterest-employer Applications for TU Dublin’s School of Culinary Arts and Food Technology are also open. For further details on the programme, contact programme chair Dr Brian Murphy at: brian.j.murphy@tudublin.ie or visit https://www.tudublin.ie/study/ postgraduate/courses/global-food-drink-leadership/
Editor: Denise Maguire Creative Director: Jane Matthews Art Director: Lenny Rooney Designer: Neasa Daly Production: Claire Kiernan Stock Photography: iStock.com Sales Director: Trish Murphy Managing Director: Gerry Tynan Chairman: Diarmaid Lennon Published by: Ashville Media, Unit 55, Park West Road, Park West Dublin 12 Tel: (01) 432 2200 ISSN: 1393-0826 All rights reserved. Every care has been taken to ensure that the information contained in this magazine is accurate. The publishers cannot, however, accept responsibility for errors or omissions. Reproduction by any means in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher is prohibited. © Ashville Media Group 2022. All discounts, promotions and competitions contained in this magazine are run independently of Licensing World. The promoter/ advertiser is responsible for honouring the prize. ISSN 1393-0826
VISIT US ONLINE www.licensingworld.ie
We hope you enjoy this issue and if you’ve any thoughts or opinions, please drop us a line.
Denise Maguire Editor The Licensing World editorial team email: editor@licensingworld.com
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ng PARTNER PROFILE
The
perfection of nature
Powerscourt Distillery has launched ‘The Italian Gardens’, the second release in its Estate Series
H
OME to Fercullen Irish Whiskey, Powerscourt Distillery has established an undisputed reputation for spirits of extraordinary quality and taste. Its core range of awardwinning Fercullen Irish Whiskeys include 8 yr old blend, 10 yr old Single Grain, 14 yr old Single Malt and 18 yr old Single Malt, several limited editions of Five Elements 18 yr old & 20 yr old Single Malts and the Estate Series, Mill House, limited edition. This year, Powerscourt Distillery is paying homage to the Italian Gardens, the centrepiece of the world renowned Powerscourt Gardens, voted third best Garden in the World by National Geographic, with its second release in the Estate Series. ‘The Italian Gardens’ is a limited edition blended Fercullen Irish Whiskey Amarone cask influence and it is expected that the demand will be high for the new expression. According to the Distillery, the new release delivers a harmonious partnership of visionary design and the perfection of nature. Powerscourt Distillery’s New Head of Whiskey & Product Development John Cashman, a recipient of an Icons of Whisky award and an international wine and spirits judge, has worked
closely with Master Distiller Noel Sweeney to combine an exceptional Fercullen 19 yr old Malt with an Italian influenced Amarone cask finish, skilfully blended with a special 12 yr old Grain Irish Whiskey to deliver an exceptional whiskey. Powerscourt Distillery offers the ultimate Irish whiskey experience. Visitors can enjoy a fully immersive, grain to glass whiskey distillery tour and tasting and experience first-hand the sights, sounds and aromas of a fully operational distillery while cultivating an appreciation of the ancient art of whiskey distillation before visiting the on-site Maturation Warehouse used to fill and store whiskey casks. Learn, taste and savour the award-winning Fercullen Irish whiskeys in a relaxing private tasting room overlooking the beautiful copper stills. Discover how this unrivalled location offers access to the best raw materials, including water from Powerscourt Waterfall and beautiful golden homegrown barley, an enviable environment ideal for inspiring a new generation in craftsmanship on the estate. 'The Italian Gardens' is available from June 20th 2022 with an RSP of €75. This is a limited edition release, all inquiries to trade@powerscourtditillery.com
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NEWS
The main events this spring...
Perfect Pairing Ashford Castle and The Shed Distillery have partnered up to launch Ashford Castle Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin. According to the Shed Distillery, the partnership carefully balances gunpowder tea and fresh citrus fruits from the Orient with honey from beehives on the Ashford Castle Estate and wood sorrel from the Castle gardens. The new gin was created in close partnership with the team at Ashford Castle led by Noli Alngohuro, Bar and Lounge Manager and General Manager, Niall Rochford. Every drop is slow-distilled by hand, sealed, hand-bottled and labelled at The Shed Distillery in Drumshanbo, Co. Leitrim.
Have passport, will travel… To mark World Whiskey Day which took place on the 21st of May, the Irish Whiskey Association encouraged people to undertake a tour and tasting at a member distillery visitor centre and to document their visit by collecting an IrishWhiskey360° Passport stamp. IrishWhiskey360°, the tourism initiative of the Irish Whiskey Association, introduced the
Passport initiative to highlight that there are 26 member Irish whiskey distilleries across the five tourist regions on the island of Ireland that offer visitor experiences. Passports can be picked up at each of the 26 distillery visitor centres. If you collect at least five stamps, with one from each region, you can apply for an IrishWhiskey360° champion pin along with other special rewards.
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NEWS
Irish spirits producers to provide energy information on labels A growing number of Irish spirits producers have committed to the roll-out of energy information on labels and ingredients and other detailed information online, according to spiritsEUROPE’s MoU delivery report. In 2019, Drinks Ireland signed a Europe-wide voluntary Memorandum of Understanding (MoU), organised by spiritsEUROPE, to provide consumers with
clear information regarding the energy content of their products on labels, as well as ingredient listing and nutrient information online. The MoU committed to around one in two producers providing energy information on labels across Europe by the end of 2021, which was achieved, and aims for 66% by the end of this year. A number of small and larger Drinks Ireland members across the
country have changed their labels to provide this additional consumer information, as Ireland continues to go above and beyond many of our EU counterparts. Today, five SME distilleries and brand owners in Ireland have signed up to the voluntary MoU, including Walsh Whiskey, Lough Ree Distillery, Skellig Six18 Distillery, Sliabh Liag Distillery and the Connacht Distillery.
‘World’s Best’ for Micil Micil Distillery has announced that its new Connemara Irish Cream has been named 'Best Irish Cream in the World' at the World Liqueur Awards 2022, just six months after its release. Described as a West of Ireland take on an Irish classic, the new Irish Cream replicates an original family recipe. Micil Heritage Poitín also won 'Best Grain Spirit in the World' in the unaged spirit category. This follows on from Micil Irish Gin being named 'Best Contemporary Irish Gin' at the World Gin Awards 2022. Head Distiller Jimín Ó Griallais said: “Poitín isn’t a spirit to be scared of and it doesn’t have to be high-strength or made from potatoes. Our family is proof of that; producing poitín from 100% Irish grains for over 170 years, using barley, oats and other grains, comparable to whiskey without the aging. That’s why we call it fuisce (pronounced fwishka) at home in Connemara. Taking our grandmothers' Irish Cream recipe, which appears on our neck strap ‘as gaeilge’ in our mother’s handwriting and modernising it with our own classic Micil Irish Poitín, was a project that we’ve taken incredible pride in.”
Clonakilty comes of age Clonakilty Distillery celebrated a milestone recently when its own spirit legally became Irish whiskey, following a three-year wait since they first filled their casks. Maturing over the last three years in the Distillery’s Atlantic Ocean warehouse, the spirit was also distilled at the distillery in Clonakilty using its own copper pot stills. To add a further local and Clonakilty connection, all the raw barley used within the distillation process was taken from farmlands owned by the Distillery, in addition to neighbouring farms in the locality. Head Distiller Paul Corbett said: “The warehouse is perched 200ft above the ocean and is exposed to persistent howling Atlantic winds. The ever-changing climate the casks are exposed to will increase our angel’s share and concentrate the flavours in our spirit, creating a whiskey with an unmatched depth of character.”
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NEWS
Applications open for Bar Manager Degree
Developed by The Vintners’ Federation of Ireland (VFI) and Griffith College, with the support of Solas, the first ever apprenticeship to train a new generation of bar managers has been launched. The three-year degree course has been created to tackle Ireland’s crippling shortage of hospitality staff. A Fáilte Ireland survey released in February indicated that as many as nine out of 10 hospitality businesses have problems recruiting staff, with many employers linking the shortage to a lack of training. VFI Chief Executive Paul Clancy says the apprenticeship, available through Griffith College nationwide, will be critical to addressing the issue. “At a time when staff recruitment is cited as the number one issue for the hospitality business, this degree will play a vital role in retaining key
personnel,” he said. The Bar Manager Apprenticeship Degree is a work-based learning programme in which apprentices will be able to work, earn and learn to become fully-qualified bar managers. Students already working in the bar trade are sponsored by their employer to develop the broad range of skills necessary to operate at the highest level in the industry, spending one day a week in lectures over three years. School leavers with experience in the bar trade and career changers are also eligible. Employers are eligible for a grant, per registered apprentice and applications are now open for the September intake. Employers can register interest at: https://content.griffith.ie/barmanagement-expression-of-interestemployer
VFI’s Padraig Cribben retires Pictured is Minister for Rural and Community Development, Heather Humphries, with outgoing Vintners’ Federation of Ireland Chief Executive Padraig Cribben at the VFI’s AGM in Tullamore. The Minister paid tribute to Padraig’s 14-year stint as VFI CEO, particularly his “constructive and pragmatic” approach to the Covid crisis that led to pubs closing for an extended period.
Cocktail Hour Andy Ferreira is away with the fairies with his new cocktail in Cask
A WHEY WITH THE FAIRIES Just recently, Cask in Cork was named a 2022 Spirited Awards Regional Top 10 honoree for Best International Cocktail Bar for the Europe region. Since opening in 2017 on MacCurtain Street Cask has won multiple awards, with its bartenders representing Ireland internationally with seasonal-led and terroir-focused cocktails. There’s more good news in store for the Cask team, with another venue planned for opening in late summer 2022. Cask’s Managing Partner Andy Ferreira said: “We don't want to give too much away, but let's just say it's a very different concept to what we do in Cask, where locality and embracing the best Ireland has to offer is at the heart of what we do. For our new cocktail bar and restaurant, we're going slightly further afield for our inspiration. We’re looking forward to sharing more news about our latest project soon.” Ingredients Bertha’s Revenge Gin x 40 ml Nettle infused Dolin Dry Vermouth x 10 ml Dolin Dry Vermouth x 10 ml Whey x 15 ml Nettle Syrup x 10 ml Method – Shake and double strain Garnish with Ballinrostig Nettle Cheese
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PARTNER PROFILE
experience A UNIQUE
One of the rarest spirits in the world, Moutai is bringing a new set of possibilities to the world of mixology
M
outai is a Chinese baijiu with a rich heritage that originated all the way back from the Qing Dynasty. It differentiates itself from other spirits with its unique production processes, rich layers of aromas, as well as its special silky flavours. As each bottle of Moutai goes through a full year of production cycle with nine times high temperature steaming, eight times fermentations, seven times extractions and five years of ageing, Moutai is reputed as one of the most luxurious and rare spirits in the world. Like many other premium spirits, Moutai has its very own way of savouring to fully appreciate its exquisite taste. You can tinkle your taste buds through senses of visualization, smell and taste. The multi-layered aroma and complex flavour of Moutai bring you a unique sensation like no other spirits you have experienced in the world. Moutai can be drunk neat, paired with dishes or made into cocktails! The multifaceted flavours of Moutai enable a unique taste in each of its drinks, bringing a new range of possibilities to the world of mixology. Making tracks around
the globe, the popularity of Moutai is no longer limited to China or Asia. Many pioneers in the mixology industry around the world have caught on with the new trend of Moutai cocktails. It’s a luxury spirit perfected for generations of trendsetters and tastemakers. In fact, a recent cocktail competition held by Moutai Ireland has spun off many innovative Moutai cocktails created by talented bartenders. As a legendary brand with centuries of history, Moutai is always striving to be at the forefront of the spirits industry and is committed to encourage innovative ideas in the drinking industry. This year, Moutai is proud to sponsor the ‘Innovative Bar of the Year’ category in the ‘Licensing World Bar of the Year Awards’ in light of promoting more groundbreaking ideas in the world of mixology!
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NEWS
Campaign to tackle skills shortages launches Fáilte Ireland has launched a €700,000 national marketing campaign aimed at attracting more people, across all ages and demographics, to jobs in the tourism industry. Retirees and parents looking for flexible working arrangements and patterns will be targeted by the campaign. Launching the campaign Fáilte Ireland CEO Paul Kelly said: “There are brilliant career opportunities available across the industry at the moment,
and the launch of this campaign will help to drive awareness of the breadth and variety of roles, as well as the flexibility and progression they can offer potential candidates. Tourism is a critical part of the national economy and driving the sector’s future prosperity is a key strategic priority for Fáilte Ireland. We have a comprehensive programme in place to support the industry to address both their immediate recruitment challenges as well
as ensuring the sector can attract the talent and skills it needs to grow and thrive into the future.” Fáilte Ireland has developed an a Tourism Careers industry toolkit which includes hiring tips from recruitment experts, bespoke digital assets, resources on expert interviewing and staff onboarding and more. Access the toolkit at https://failteireland.ie/tourism-careerstoolkit/
Double win for Irish Honey Liqueur Wild Geese Irish Honey Liqueur took home Double Gold at the recently held 2022 SIP Awards, the only competition judged solely by consumers. Made with Wild Geese Whiskey, natural honey from Tipperary and Kilkenny and a secret blend of spices, Wild Geese Irish Honey Liqueur is inspired by St. Gobnait, Ireland’s patron saint of beekeepers. Andre Levy, Chairman of The Wild Geese producer Protégé International, said: “To have been selected from a judging panel of consumers and to have received unbiased consumer feedback is a huge source of pride for us, as it reinforces the true quality of our products, which have been recognised around the world by almost 70 prestigious international awards.”
New Chair and Vice Chair at LVA The Licensed Vintners Association (LVA) has named Alison Kealy as its new Chair and Laura Moriarty as Vice Chair. Alison succeeds Noel Anderson who was Chair of the LVA from February 2021. She is also the first daughter of a previous Chair to hold the role, with her father Derry having previously acted as LVA Chair in 2004. Alison’s pub is Kealy’s of Cloghran, based near Dublin Airport and she is also involved in two new restaurant projects in Malahide and Portmarnock. She has been working in the pub sector since 2006 when she rejoined the family business, having previously trained and worked as a chartered accountant and as a financial controller in the IT industry. Laura Moriarty has been involved in the hospitality sector since 2000, when her family business opened the Bracken Court Hotel. She currently serves as Group Operations Director of the Moriarty Group, a leading hospitality and retail business. Speaking about the new Chair and Vice Chair, Donall O’Keeffe, Chief Executive of the LVA said: “We are delighted to have two dynamic individuals taking up these positions. Both Alison and Laura are steeped in the hospitality sector and also have extensive professional backgrounds across business, finance and retail. We will definitely be leaning on all facets of their expertise over their periods of office.”
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BEER
FLAVOUR
Forward
LOCK 13 BREWPUB brews its own handcrafted beers matched with quality food, sourced locally from suppliers
S
ituated along the Grand Canal in Sallins, Co Kildare, Lock 13 Brewpub showcases simple yet tasty food along with beer made in its onsite brewery, Kildare Brewing Company. The family-run establishment is a member of Good Food Ireland and prides itself on supporting local suppliers as much as possible. Weddings are also catered for in the pub’s Hop Terrace and upstairs function room. Kildare Brewing Company uses locally sourced malt in all its beer brews, with a wide range of flavours to suit all tastes available from big hoppy ales to a nice easy crisp lager, all brewed right in front of customers. Beers from Kildare Brewing Company are also flavour profile matched with all food served in Lock 13 Brewpub and are used in some of the recipes too. “We do everything ourselves and we’re pretty passionate about not letting our beers be packaged by anyone else. That’s why our beers are also packaged in kegs, bottles and cans in-house,” said Barry Flanagan, owner, Kildare Brewing Company. The brewery has also created ProKulture Organic Kombucha,
a fermented tea available in two flavours, Ginger & Lemongrass and Wild Berry. Both flavours are also available in Aldi nationwide. Sustainability also plays a key role at the business. All menu items are created from scratch and in-house to reduce on-site packaging, transport and waste materials. All used cooking oil is collected and recycled to make biodiesel fuel and energy comes from a 100% renewable power company.
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VODKA
John Reynolds, Niall O'Dwyer, Pippa O'Connor, Shane Davey - Sugarloaf Beverages
In the
AS ISTIL 38 BEGINS TO MAKE ITS MARK, SUGARLOAF BEVERAGES MD SHANE DAVEY TALKS ABOUT THE CHALLENGES OF LAUNCHING A NEW VODKA IN THE IRISH MARKET and new product development is around Absolut Vodka so it wasn’t a goer, although at the time I remember it was considered a good idea. It was always in the back of my mind. During Covid, I went for a walk with Niall O'Dwyer and we were talking about the huge demand for Irish products and for the Irish gin and whiskey that we sell and yet we’ve nothing in the vodka category, which is the biggest selling category in Ireland. From that conversation, it just ballooned.
CONGRATULATIONS ON THE LAUNCH OF ISTIL 38. WHERE DID THE IDEA FOR THE VODKA COME FROM? It was an idea that I had years ago. My background is in Irish Distillers and Diageo and when I worked in Diageo, we launched Gordon’s Pink Gin which was obviously very successful. I remember working in Irish Distillers and saying, there’s no reason why a pink vodka wouldn’t work. It’s slightly sweeter, it's a little bit more feminine and it looks good in the glass. Irish Distillers is owned by Pernod Ricard
WHAT HAPPENED NEXT? I was working at Irish Distillers at the time and mindful of any conflict of interest so John Reynolds and Niall O'Dwyer, now co-directors at Sugarloaf Beverages, took the idea and ran with it. I helped them at weekends, knowing that my role at Irish Distillers was probably going to change in the near future. That was well over a year ago and since then, it’s been all about getting the design and the name right. The name went
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VODKA
through a number of iterations but after about three months, we trademarked the name istil 38 in Ireland, England, Europe and the US. Finding the liquid we wanted was the next piece of the puzzle. We blind-tasted hundreds of vodkas, both premium and super premium and the best one in our opinion was a distilled vodka; the distillation process in the copper pot still strips out the harsher taste. So we went down the route of making our vodka just as good, if not better, than the one that we rated the best. DID YOU GET MUCH FEEDBACK FROM THE INDUSTRY? Yes, we worked with about three of the country’s best known bartenders to get the liquid right. The aim was to create a vodka that bartenders would enjoy and get behind. After that, it was all about branding. From all the market research we conducted, we found that vodka is a female category. When we asked through our market research questions like, if your vodka was a person who would it be, Pippa O’Connor’s name kept coming up. So we approached her and she obviously liked the concept enough that she came back two days later and said look, I love your idea but I don't really do anything that I'm not involved in. She ended up buying into the brand, which wasn't something we expected but were delighted with. HOW MUCH INPUT DID PIPPA HAVE? She’s the creative director and has been instrumental when it comes to getting the liquid to particular events or instructing us to target certain social media influencers or outlets. Her investment was of course great, but her advice around where to go with the brand has been invaluable. WHAT MAKES ISTIL 38 STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD? It’s hand crafted, it's super smooth and if you blind test istil 38 with any other vodkas on the market, we believe it stands up. As far as we're concerned, it's the best. Compared to the market leaders, it costs three to four times more to make istil 38 and that’s because it’s small batch. We’re not mass producing it so it’s a premium product and it also costs that bit more. I think once we get it out there a bit more on social media and advertising and get liquid on lips, people will appreciate it and be willing to pay the slight premium.
“It’s hand crafted, it's super smooth and if you blind test istil 38 with any other vodkas on the market, we believe it stands up" Shane Davey
AT THE MOMENT THERE ARE THREE VARIANTS OF THE PRODUCT - ORIGINAL, VANILLA AND PINK BERRIES. ARE THERE PLANS TO LAUNCH MORE? Long-term there are plans to launch new variants. In the next year to two years though, we’re concentrating on making istil 38 the bestselling Irish vodka on the market. That isn’t actually a particularly huge ambition, as 99% of the vodkas on the market are foreign. Once we achieve that, we’d like to go abroad and be able to say to all the Irish bars, we're the bestselling Irish vodka in Ireland and if you're a real Irish bar, you really should be supporting Irish brands. Once we achieve those milestones, we’ll start looking at maybe unusual and more adult flavours and once we get them exactly right, we’ll launch them. We launched our vanilla vodka two months after we launched the other flavours as we weren't 100% satisfied with it. We are so pedantic about the liquid, so we delayed it until we got the best possible recipe. Now, we feel that it’s so good and so vanilla-y that if you’re making an Espresso Martini, you don’t actually need Kahlua or Tia Maria. Bartenders love it and that’s the type of vodka we wanted to create. A brand grows through advocacy and affinity with the people who know what they’re talking about and in this case, the real experts are the bartenders. WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE OUT OF THE THREE FLAVOURS? I like the pink, but I like it with a citrus tonic. That’s not something we came up with by the way, a bartender came up with that combination. It's very adult tasting; we didn't want to go down the sweet strawberry type route. From the off, we were aiming for an adult tasting drink and that’s what we have achieved. The tonic that I think works best is Poachers Citrus Tonic. That’s the tonic that the bartender, Ronan Rogerson used and I think it’s phenomenal. WAS LEAVING IRISH DISTILLERS AND PURSUING YOUR IDEA A DAUNTING PROSPECT? Yes! I have a wife and three kids so this was absolutely the scariest thing I've ever done. Doing it completely by myself is a scary thought and that’s probably why I had John, Niall and Pippa there with me. In saying that, it still keeps me awake some nights. My brain never shuts off, but I think that’s what happens when you launch your own business. I’ve figured out that sleeping with a notebook beside my bed helps. When I wake up at 6am, I’ll either get up and do stuff or I’ll write all my ideas down and that way my brain will shut down a bit and let me get some sleep. It’s a lonely place to be sometimes, but also very enjoyable and fastmoving. In a large company, you have to get through several layers before you get the answer you need. Now, the buck stops with me. THERE MUST BE SOME GRATIFICATION THERE TOO; ISTIL 38 IS AVAILABLE IN OVER 200 PUBS AND STOCKED IN INDEPENDENT OFF-LICENCES AS WELL AS O'BRIENS There is. It’s daunting but I’m glad I did it. I think that if I hadn't gone out on my own, I would have always regretted it. it’s also been interesting to learn how to do accounts payable, accounts receivable, how to deal with logistics and with revenue. It takes time to learn all this stuff, but I’m getting there.
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INSPIRED BY THE MAN HIMSELF...
W
ith a rich heritage dating back to 1779, PADDY owes its name to the legendary distillery salesman, Paddy Flaherty. Famed throughout his native county Cork for buying rounds of his favourite tipple, he became so synonymous with the whiskey he sold, that in 1913 the distillery owners paid him the ultimate tribute by renaming the whiskey ‘PADDY’ in his honour. Made from a unique blend of pot still, malt and grain whiskeys, PADDY is a soft and light whiskey. Enjoy it neat, on the rocks or mixed.
For more details on upcoming events see: @PaddyIrishWhiskeyIreland @PaddyWhiskeyIreland
Ginger Paddy
Paddy Sour Ingredients
Ingredients
Whiskey • 35.5ml PADDY • Ginger Ale with • Served over Ice on m le of ce • a sli
• 50mls PADDY • 25mls Lemon • 25mls Sugar (whites) • Garnish with a couple • of drops of bitters
Irish Coffee Ingredients
• 35.5ml PAD DY Whiskey • 1 teaspoon of sugar • 1 cup of fres hly • brewed coff ee • Top with lig htly whipped cream • Garnish with grated nutmeg and dark chocolat e
Enjoy Paddy responsibly © 2021 Paddy. All rights reserved. Paddy is a registered trademark. Available exclusively from Hi-Spirits.
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CRAFT BREWERIES
UP A STORM LICENSING WORLD CAUGHT UP WITH THREE OF IRELAND'S TOP BREWERIES TO FIND OUT WHAT IT TAKES TO CREATE THE PERFECT CRAFT BEER AND STAND OUT IN AN INCREASINGLY COMPETITIVE MARKETPLACE
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CRAFT BREWERIES
LANE
P
robably the smallest brewery in Ireland, Elbow Lane in Cork recently announced it would be doubling its brewing capacity with matchfunding from Cork City’s Local Enterprise Office. It’s expected the €60,000 investment will help the micro-brewery keep up with existing demand and help develop its distribution within the region. Elbow Lane Brewery is part of the Market Lane Group which also includes Elbow Lane Smokehouse, Market Lane, Goldie, ORSO and Blackrock Castle restaurants. It’s one of the few Irish breweries that strictly adheres to the principles of the ancient German Purity Law, ‘Reinheitsgebot’, meaning only
four ingredients are used – malted barley, hops, yeast and water. “Reinheitsgebot dates back to 1516 and was probably Europe's first consumer protection law. It governed what went into beer at a time when people were throwing nearly anything into it. We follow that law; no additives go into beers at Elbow Lane. The fermentation of the beer is not artificially accelerated, nor is it filtered, so it’s totally natural. We rely on time and gravity sedimentation to allow our beers to settle out,” said Master Brewer Russell Garrett. You won’t find trendy beers containing ingredients like hazelnuts or vanilla at Elbow Lane; quality and taste are paramount, with beers formulated to work with the food offering across the Group’s five restaurants. No enzymes or stabilizers mean a shorter shelf life for Elbow Lane beers. Distribution is kept to roughly 30km from the brewery which, says Russell, helps guarantees quality. “A three month shelf life ensures a high quality beer. So while expanding across the country isn’t something we’re pursuing, we want to sell more beer within that 30km catchment area and the recent investment is allowing that to happen. Here at the brewery we always say, everybody remembers the bad pint they had on a night out, but nobody goes home and talks about the great pint they enjoyed. We go to great measures to ensure we’re the ones selling that great pint.” Products from Elbow Lane launched 10 years ago, while work on the brewery began in 2014. US native Russell has been with the brewery since the beginning and is celebrating 36 years in the industry this year. He got his first taster of brewery life in 1986 working for the original Manhattan Brewing Company in New York. Stints across the US followed, before he moved to Ireland after marrying an Irish woman. “Back in 1998, I was a partner in Franciscan Well; I came over with the equipment from the States, I installed the brewery and I formulated
“Everybody remembers the bad pint they had, but nobody goes home and talks about the great pint they enjoyed. We go to great measures to ensure we're the ones selling that great pint” Russell Garrett, Master Brewer, Elbow Lane
Russell Garrett, Master Brewer, Elbow Lane
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the recipes. I was there for about a decade before leaving to do some consultancy work and then joining Elbow Lane.” Craft breweries were few and far between in Ireland in the 1980’s. In the US the craft beer market had already taken hold, with upward of 25% of beer sales falling into the craft beer category. “Quite a few of the older Irish craft breweries have closed down, as they were forced to pay the same excise duties as the larger breweries. It wasn't until 2004 when the Irish government granted us the reduction in beer duty that we got on the same level as the rest of Europe. That was a game changer for the craft brewing industry.” Sales among younger people took off; they had moved on from drinking the same pint as their grandfather. “That change really kicked in around 2012. Even with the tax break, it was still tough for a number of years. Craft brewers talk about three waves of craft brewing; the first wave was the original guys, the ground breakers, that set up shop around 1995. The second was the small number that set up in the early 2000s and the third wave came around 2012 when we began to see the number of craft breweries go from around 20 to 70 within a few years. That was a big change.” Traditionally, tourists have played a big role in the success of the brewery and thankfully, says Russell, they’re coming back. “We rank highly on TripAdvisor so if you’re looking for the best steak or the best seafood in town, we’re the place to visit. The last couple of years have been tough for the industry but just this morning, I saw a large group of tourists coming out of the bus station. It’s great to finally see some normality.”
Russell and the team are quite selective when it comes to where their products are sold. “In the past, we’ve been approached by pubs that wanted to take our beers but didn't seem to share our ethos. We don't just grab any tap that comes our way.” During Covid, demand for Elbow Lane’s packaged products spiked. To keep up with customer requirements, investment in new equipment was essential. “We invested in a new four head bottle filler and a 5 litre mini keg filler. We’re also starting to reap the benefits of the new tanks that we invested in last summer. We’re really focused on continuing to do what we’re good at doing, which is brewing really excellent beers and matching them with the food we offer in our restaurants. The investment has allowed us to increase our capacity by a certain percentage but with demand as high as it is, we could easily hit that ceiling within a year or two.”
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David Walsh-Kemmis, Owner, Ballykilcavan Farm & Brewery
Ballykilcavan
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n the last issue of Licensing World, we highlighted Ballykilcavan’s participation in #DrinkersForUkraine, a fundraising initiative that saw breweries from around the world brew a stout that was first created by displaced Ukrainian brewers. “We had to ration the beer as people were looking for more stock than we actually had. The reaction to it was great and it’s all been sold; I think there were about six cans left in Egan’s Off-Licence in Portlaoise
a couple of weeks ago! It was the first beer we made that wasn’t our own recipe and initially we were a bit unsure about it as it called for quite a lot of beetroot. But people really enjoyed it, so we were delighted,” said Ballykilcavan Farm & Brewery owner, David Walsh-Kemmis. For more than 13 generations, David’s family has lived and worked at Ballykilcavan Farm. Traditionally, Ballykilcavan was always a mixed farm, with woodland, grass for livestock and fields of crops. Located just outside Stradbally in Co Laois, the farm sits in a prime malting barley growing area, perfect for making beer. “I took over the business in 2004 and after farming the land for a decade, I saw diversification as a way of sustaining the farm for later generations. I’ve always been interested in home brewing and making my own beer, so it seemed like a natural progression to setting up a brewery.” Initially, David was making beer in another brewery, using barley from the farm. In 2018, the brewery at Ballykilcavan officially opened and today, David also runs tours where visitors can have a look around the brewery, hear family stories spanning back 380 years and find out how beer is made. “We have a good smattering of international visitors booking tours at the moment, which bodes well for the rest of the summer. There’s volume there with the tours, but we’re lucky in that we’re not reliant on them. We’ve also got the brewery and the farm, which I still work on. The tours are an added bonus but we’re keen to expand that part of the offering in the next couple of years.”
“We had to ration the beer as people were looking for more stock than we actually had”
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“When guests come here, they say that Ballykilcavan is very different to other brewery tours they’ve been on. That’s something we’re keen to push as much as we can”
The brewery at Ballykilcavan is located in the farm’s original stone grainstore, which dates back to about 1780. Like most of the buildings in the 240-year-old farmyard, it’s too small for modern farm equipment, but the perfect size for a small craft brewery. All eight beers in the brewery’s core range, along with the limited edition variants, are unfiltered and unpasteurised when they’re packaged. “We brew the traditional way, partly because we like doing it that way but also because we simply don't have equipment like filters etc. Making beer the old-fashioned way means that hopefully you’re getting a better product with more flavours.” Growth potential lies in exports, says David. “Domestically, we’re in a very tough market. We’re not just competing with other craft breweries, but we’re also competing with the really big breweries as well. It’s also difficult to get a publican to take on your beer. We just can’t compete with the sort of incentives bigger breweries might be able to offer the pub trade.” The potential for growth in countries like Italy, France and The Netherlands is very strong, says David. “That side of the business was completely shut down for the past two years of Covid. Everyone was just trying to keep their heads above water, so overseas distributors weren’t interested in talking to a new brewery from Ireland. That’s changing now.” From an importer’s point of view, one of the most important characteristics of the brewery is its sustainability credentials which pair nicely with the history of the farm. Just recently, Ballykilcavan brewery won the ‘Sustainability’ award at the Small Firms Association National Small Business Awards 2022. “When we’re talking to a distributor or importer, we talk about the Ballykilcavan story; we
talk about the history of the farm and the family, the fact that we grow our own barley, we take water from our own well, we even grow some hops here too. They’re all really important considerations in the marketplace today and that sustainability piece really stands to us.” With tours taking off, expansion plans are afoot at Ballykilcavan. More visitors will mean more staff and a greater offering will, says David, bring more tourism to the farm. Additional staff will also be required in the brewery, on production and in sales. Last October, six new fermenters were added to the original six and already, four of them are full. “We're not quite at the stage of having to expand again, but we're getting close. We want to expand both in the amount that we’re able to produce and the areas that we’re able to sell into. I think we have a very unique tourism offering here which can only grow over the next few years. We also do artisan food and beer pairings which people love. When guests come here, they say that Ballykilcavan is very different to other brewery tours they’ve been on. That’s something we’re keen to push as much as we can.”
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RYE RIVER
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hen Rye River Brewing Company set up almost 10 years ago, there were about 65 breweries in total operating across the country. Today, there are over 130. It is, says RRBC Managing Director Tom Cronin, a crazily competitive space. “You've got to be agile and I know I’m like a scratched record when I say this, but we’ve worked extremely hard at our craft to get to the position we’re in today. The key things we’ve held onto since we started are quality and consistency. We've always maintained that for a craft brand to migrate to the top of the pile, it must retain its consistency. That beer you enjoy every Friday has to be the same; it shouldn’t change in ABV clarity or in mouthfeel. From the off, our focus has been on guaranteeing that consistency.” To meet that promise, every recipe at Rye River starts with a water profile. “We have 32 unique recipes on the go all the time and every one of them has its own water profile. So we don’t even take chances when it comes to the water coming into the business; we strip everything out and then we build the water profile, suiting that style of beer. I believe that gives us a great head start.” Tom’s passion for the industry was ignited in previously held roles in Heineken and Molson Coors. The RRBC management team are also industry veterans. “That industry knowledge has proved invaluable. We’re also passionate about what we do, which is essential in this business.” In 2021, the Celbridge-based brewery grew by 11%, making it the country’s number one retail craft brewery. Although export and domestic volume is up, RRBC remains very much an independent craft brewer, says Tom. Beers are brewed in 2,500 litre batches, on probably one of the smallest kits in the country. “This week we’ll be brewing 40 brews, so we’re a very hard working brewery. We use 25kg bags of malt which have to be manually lifted and filled every day. We run a very manual process here and as
Bill Laukitis, Head Brewer and Tom Cronin, Managing Director, Rye River Brewing Company
“I believe we’ve done a huge amount of work in raising the bar for Irish craft brewing and for Irish craft breweries”
a result, work 24/7 to eke out the volume. I think sometimes we’re not recognised for our efforts due to our size; I believe we’ve done a huge amount of work in raising the bar for Irish craft brewing and for Irish craft breweries.” RRBC is about to go to market to raise €3.5 million for growth capital investment. “I think we need to move away from that pace. It’s very demanding on everyone, on me right down to people working in the warehouse, in production, in finance. Yes, we get great results but I’m conscious of the effort that goes into it. We're certainly not going to lose sight of where we've come from, but the pace at which we currently operate probably isn’t sustainable.” Like most businesses, inflation is impacting the business. Since the war in Ukraine, glass prices have gone up over 40%. “I’ve always maintained that the Irish consumer doesn’t engage with cans in the same way they appreciate a 500ml bottle. We’re buying bottles from the UK now, but the cost isn’t sustainable so that issue around glass will require a strategy change. Cardboard and paper have also gone up 40% and utilities are through the
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roof. Everything is out of control at the moment and there's very little support for the industry.” Across all its brands, Rye River exports to 28 countries. Restrictions may have lifted at home, but that’s not the case in other countries, says Tom. “Exports haven’t recovered to what they were pre-Covid. We’re still dealing with regions that have restrictions in place, so the export business is going a little slower than we’d like right now.” The brewery’s popular McGargles range can now be found under the Rye River Brewing Company brand, a move that will land well internationally, says Tom. “The brand is established, as is the reputation and that will allow us to go after more volume in existing markets and new volume in new markets.” Rye River began brewing in 2017 with the intention of doubling its volume within five years. That goal was achieved in just three. Plans are also in place to begin using the brewery as an intimate event space, known as ‘The Source’, for live music gigs, comedy, theatre, art exhibitions etc. BEHAGS (big hairy audacious goals) have been set and met consistently and the next step is to conquer new export markets. “We’ve got an ambitious volume plan in place for the next few years. I think our overarching aim is to make Rye River Brewing Company an Irish brand that everyone has heard of. When you think of craft beer, you think of us. We’ll continue to produce world class, exceptional quality craft beer and as our reputation grows, so till will the reputation of Ireland’s craft beer market.”
“Our aim is to make Rye River Brewing Company an Irish brand that everyone has heard of. When you think of craft beer, you'll think of us”
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Setting 'The Bar'
Brian Conlon, owner of Slattery’s on Capel Street, has opened a new venue on St Stephen’s Green
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ocated in what was previously TGI Fridays on St Stephen’s Green, ‘The Bar’ has undergone extensive renovations over the past six months, resulting in a contemporary venue with modern paintings and Guinness themed murals by Dublin artist Creative Dave. At the recently-held launch night, a ‘black’ carpet welcomed guests while a ‘Stoutie’ machine allowed customers to put their own selfie on the head of a pint of Guinness. Commenting at the launch of The Bar, Brian Conlon said: “We are delighted to expand across the Liffey and to bring our reputation of great hospitality to new customers. We found the perfect venue in St Stephen’s Green to offer locals and tourists alike a unique hospitality experience in a lively, friendly atmosphere right in the centre of Dublin. We’ve had a great reaction since
we opened a few weeks ago. Customers know that they are guaranteed top quality drinks and food and friendly service while they catch up with friends or watch a game on our big screens. And they love the mix of modern and nostalgic Guinness themed décor!”
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OF THE
The 2022 Bar of the Year Awards will take place at Clayton Hotel Burlington Road
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