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FROM THE DEPTHS TO THE HEIGHTS
THE RHÔNE ALPS OFFER AN ARRAY OF SUBTERRANEAN AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES FOR THE THRILL-SEEKER, WRITES ADAM HYLAND
The Rhône Alps, which incorporate Savoie Mont Blanc, Isère, Loire and Rhône, may be synonymous with skiing and other winter sports (having hosted the Winter Olympics three times), but in the warmer months there are so many things to do on, around, and even under the mountains, it almost seems unfair.
e quaint and secluded village of St Christophe de la Grotte in Savoie is the perfect place to start o on a subterranean adventure, where you can enter the Échelles caves and soon nd yourself balancing on a narrow ledge while maneuvering around a stalactite some 50metres above a cave oor.
Underground
Upon entering the caves, you start o with what seems like a nice saunter into the underworld, with dark corners illuminated by interior lights and sha s of sunlight spilling in from outside, but soon it becomes clear why the jumpsuit with harness, and an assortment of buckles, ropes and a helmet are issued to you on your tour.
Getting the full spelunking, or caving, experience involves zip-wiring across a chasm, then proceeding slowly, one clamp or buckle at a time, switching from rope to rope as you make your way deeper into the caves.
At times it becomes so narrow that you have to throw your rucksack ahead of you, while at other times it becomes so open that you look down at a gaping nothingness below, so it is at once invigorating, terrifying and enormously fun.
e expert guide from Les Grottes des Echelles and ultra-safe procedures mean there is no chance of this spelunk going spelaatt. It is very safe in the right hands, and will leave you feeling like you have just conquered the underworld as you reappear, bleary-eyed, out of the darkness.
You can check out what is on o er at www.sport.isere.fr/outdoor and www.animgrotte.com
At the foot of these hills stands the delightful La Ferme Bonne de la Grotte, a converted farmhouse that still has many remnants of its rural ancestry in its décor. ere are many quaint places full of rustic charm around France, but what sets this small place apart is its personal touch. It’s the perfect spot in which to nd relaxation and peace, while also serving as a great base to head out and explore the surrounding countryside and all it has to o er, including many cycling trails, mountain hikes and walks, some of which start right outside the door. www.gites-savoie.com
If you prefer the water, you can head to Lake Aiguabelette, a tranquil and placid lake with a sheer wall of mountain on one side that gives conditions perfect for rowing, canoeing and kayaking.
Scaling Heights
Being the Alps, it is only right to head to the hills too, with a visit to the Chartreuse Regional Park and its stunning Cirque Du St Meme – a natural ampitheatre of mountain cli s that curve protectively around forested hills and beautiful waterfalls, most notably the Grande Cascade.
e hiking trails here are outstanding, beautiful and very rewarding, while the park itself is full of wonders for fans of history, ora and fauna. On top of that, the Chalet restaurant and hotel serves up delicious food and excellent accommodation in what is truly an idyllic setting. For more, see www.chartreuse-tourisme.com is is a casual hike, but for the more adventurous mountain sportsperson there is the Raidlight Station and Spa entre Oreade. ink of it as like Everest Base Camp, but with expertise, advice, trails, a communications centre, top of the range sports clothing to sample, showers and an excellent café/restaurant. ere’s also hot tubs, a sauna and relaxation yurt on o er to relax in a er your mountain adventure.
To fuel up, a dinner at L’Auberge du Morge, is an excellent treat, if you can nd it, because the food is of outstanding quality. ere may not be a menu – they o en just bring the dish of the evening to your, con dent in the knowledge you would like it. And you will. www.aubergedumorge.com/en/
Flight Of Fancy
You can go higher into the mountains by taking an incredibly steep funicular from Grenoble to St Hilaire du Touvet, especially recommended if your trip coincides with the bizarre and brilliant Coupe Icare, an annual exhibition of air sports, including everything from paragliding to hot air balloons to gliders, named a er the man who made those famous wings to see if man truly could master ight.
is is the Woodstock of air sports –and be prepared to see some weird and wonderful sights to rival the stunning mountain views all around. Even if you are not into hurling yourself o a cli or reaching for the skies in an e ort to emulate the aforementioned Greek Icarus, there is plenty to keep you and your family entertained here, from ight demonstrations to balloon making to bird of prey exhibitions, as well as street performances and music.
e highlight, however, must be the fancy dress hang gliding and paragliding competition, in which daredevils in bizarre costumes try to out-do each other in the fashion and ying stakes by taking a long run up before launching into the air from a cli top. It promises to last long in the memory.
is year the Coupe runs from Sep 22 to 24. www.coupe-icare.org
Grenoble
Grenoble itself is a lovely little city of about 550,000 people nestled under mountains (with a view of Mont Blanc in the distance for the very keensighted). The historical city has all sorts of attractions, from the Bastille, accessible by the city’s famous bubble cable cars, to the fascinating Musée Dauphinois. Fort de la Bastille o ers stunning panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains, and o ers a great day out for families with nearby caves and an indoor parcour and orienteering centre for children. On top of that, the restaurant there is excellent and an open-air lunch in the warm sunshine on the rooftop of the world will serve as a fitting finale to an Alpine adventure, reminding you that this is a place where you can have great fun and relaxation, no matter what the season.
FLIGHT DETAILS: www.savoie-mont-blanc.com
Fly with Aer Lingus from Dublin to Lyon, or Aer Lingus to Geneva, and catch the train to Grenoble to start your adventure.