Money Heist: COVID-19 Wage Theft in Global Garment Supply Chains

Page 105

Section 3: Covid-19 And The Export-Oriented Garment Industry In India 1. How Did Covid-19 Affect India’s Garment Exports? Indian garment exports have been declining over the last four years in terms of value of exports due to sluggish demand from the US and EU as well as rising competition from other garment exporting countries in Asia. This trend worsened in 2020 during the Covid-19 crisis as brands cancelled orders or demanded retroactive price reductions, for goods already in production or ready to be shipped. Garment exports from India fell from 16.25 billion USD in 2019 to 12.26 billion USD in 2020, which is a reduction of around 24% (Figure 6.3). Most of this fall was experienced during the total lockdown phase with April reporting a decline in exports of almost 91%. Exports from India had experienced a slight Figure 6.3:: Trend Trend in RMG exports from India - 2019 vs. 2020 Figure 6.1 in apparel exports from India - 2019 vs. 2020

Total Value of Apparel Exports (Million USD)

2019

2020

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Exports picked up post-lockdown till September 2020, then dropped again till November due to lower consumer demand in Europe, when lockdowns were reintroduced with rising Covid-19 cases. Exports did not reach pre-Covid levels even in December 2020 and declined once again in mid-2021 due to the second wave of Covid-19 in India.

2. What Did The Indian Government Do For Garment Workers? While the government eased liquidity for garment suppliers through tax incentives and by facilitating credit flow, there was no concerted intervention by the government to address the crisis of unpaid wages in the industry. The Government of India issued an advisory in March 2020 to all employers’ associations to not terminate their employees, particularly casual and contractual workers or cut wages of workers in view of the lockdown.6 However, it was not enforced as it was legally contested by employers who cited weak finances and limited monetary support from the government. Moreover, instead of safeguarding labour rights, the central government as well as several state governments also pushed through key labour reforms during the crisis,7 that further undermined workers’ basic rights and bargaining power to fight the Covid-19 induced wage theft in the garment industry.

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increase in February, 2020, as suppliers did not suffer from a raw material shortage, and orders from certain brands shifted from China to India. However, this advantage was soon lost with the imposition of the lockdown which also coincided with order cancellations by brands.

r r r r be be be be em Octo em cem t v p De No Se Source : UN Comtrade

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11. Conclusion and Way Forward

13min
pages 190-196

Table 9.2: Cascading effect of brand actions on suppliers’ employment practices

2min
pages 170-171

in Global Garment Supply Chains

1min
page 168

8. Bangladesh

2min
pages 148-149

Figure 8.10: Trend in monthly household consumption, 2020

1min
page 162

Figure 7.18: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 145-147

Figure 6.20: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 123-125

7. Cambodia

1min
pages 126-127

Figure 6.6: Trend in wages by social category, 2020

3min
pages 111-112

Figure 6.5: Trend in monthly wages by gender, 2020

6min
pages 108-110

Figure 6.3: Trend in RMG exports from India - 2019 vs. 2020

2min
page 105

5. Indonesia

1min
pages 76-77

Table 5.2: Cuts in bonus payment by region, 2020

2min
page 92

Figure 5.20: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 97-99

Figure 5.7: Monthly wages by contract type across minimum wage regions, 2020

2min
page 87

Figure 4.18: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

2min
pages 73-75

Figure 4.12: Trend in wages, consumption and debt, 2020

2min
page 68

6. India

2min
pages 100-101

4. Pakistan

2min
pages 55-56

2. Methodology

1min
page 24

Table 2.2: Summary of key concepts and variables

5min
pages 28-31

Wage Theft in the Supply Chains of 15 Global

0
page 23

Typology of Managerial Practices and Wage Theft

1min
page 22

Table 2.1: No. of factories and workers surveyed across 6 countries

6min
pages 25-27

3. Sri Lanka

2min
pages 32-33

1. Introduction

15min
pages 14-21

Figure 3.19: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 51-54
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