Money Heist: COVID-19 Wage Theft in Global Garment Supply Chains

Page 108

Wages and working conditions are shaped by pre-existing inequalities in the labour market in the form of age, caste, gender and contractual status. During the prepandemic period, brands took advantage of these disparities to systematically underpay vulnerable segments of the workforce and to flexibilise employment relations.

Female

Male

200

Monthyl Wages in USD

2. Pre-Existing Inequalities As A Fertile Ground For Covid-19 Wage Theft

Figure 6.5: Trend in monthly wages by gender, 2020 Figure 6.3 : Trend in monthly wages by gender, 2020

150

100

50

0

ary -Febru

January

-May

March

However, once garment production resumed from June, with migrant men also slowly returning back to work, the monthly gender wage gap started going back to prepandemic levels with men earning more than women workers.

cembe

ber-De

Novem

r

Source : Primary data, n = 433

Gender Pay Gap Although wages of both men and women fell during the Covid-19 lockdown period, the monthly gender pay gap reversed when compared to the pre-pandemic period, with women earning more than men between March and May 2020 (Figure 6.5). This is because, during these months, more women workers were engaged in the production of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE). Men were mainly laid off or in places like Ahmedabad and Gurgaon, where suppliers employ a large number of single male migrants, many had returned to their villages during the migrant-exodus in March 2020, forcing suppliers to employ more women in PPE production. Most women engaged in PPE production stated that they were forced to work extremely long hours at very low wages during this period.

ctober

June-O

“After the lockdown, the factory stated the creche facility will not be reopening due to health and safety concerns. With a two-year-old child, how could I return to work without a creche in the factory? We had no savings and were in massive debt after the lockdown, so for a few days, I left my child at a neighbour’s house and returned to work. But it could not be sustained, and the manager said its better I resign, as they were anyway trying to cut down their workforce. So, I resigned and started selling vegetables at the market, where I could at least take my baby to work. I hardly earn 5000 INR (69 USD) a month now. I wish I could return to the factory so I could earn more and give my baby more nutritious food.” - Saritha, 25-year-old garment worker at PVH supplier factory in Bengaluru

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11. Conclusion and Way Forward

13min
pages 190-196

Table 9.2: Cascading effect of brand actions on suppliers’ employment practices

2min
pages 170-171

in Global Garment Supply Chains

1min
page 168

8. Bangladesh

2min
pages 148-149

Figure 8.10: Trend in monthly household consumption, 2020

1min
page 162

Figure 7.18: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 145-147

Figure 6.20: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 123-125

7. Cambodia

1min
pages 126-127

Figure 6.6: Trend in wages by social category, 2020

3min
pages 111-112

Figure 6.5: Trend in monthly wages by gender, 2020

6min
pages 108-110

Figure 6.3: Trend in RMG exports from India - 2019 vs. 2020

2min
page 105

5. Indonesia

1min
pages 76-77

Table 5.2: Cuts in bonus payment by region, 2020

2min
page 92

Figure 5.20: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 97-99

Figure 5.7: Monthly wages by contract type across minimum wage regions, 2020

2min
page 87

Figure 4.18: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

2min
pages 73-75

Figure 4.12: Trend in wages, consumption and debt, 2020

2min
page 68

6. India

2min
pages 100-101

4. Pakistan

2min
pages 55-56

2. Methodology

1min
page 24

Table 2.2: Summary of key concepts and variables

5min
pages 28-31

Wage Theft in the Supply Chains of 15 Global

0
page 23

Typology of Managerial Practices and Wage Theft

1min
page 22

Table 2.1: No. of factories and workers surveyed across 6 countries

6min
pages 25-27

3. Sri Lanka

2min
pages 32-33

1. Introduction

15min
pages 14-21

Figure 3.19: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 51-54
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