Money Heist: COVID-19 Wage Theft in Global Garment Supply Chains

Page 25

Table 2.1: No. of factories and workers surveyed across 6 countries

Country

No. of Factories

Bangladesh

21

Cambodia

24

No. of Workers 271 294

India

55

433

Indonesia

28

390

Pakistan

50

605

Sri Lanka

11

192

Total

189

2185

Sampling Method A two-stage random sampling method was used to ensure the representation of the overall garment worker population across surveyed countries: • In the first stage, factories were identified and a representative sample was drawn for the identified factories. • In the second stage, the number of workers to be sampled for each factory was drawn proportionate to the factory size. The selection of factories, and further selection of workers was done in a phased manner. Both factories and workers were chosen based on definite inclusion criteria, to ensure the representativeness of the sample, as summarised below. Selection Of Factories Factories where experiencing wage

workers reported theft due to the

pandemic-induced recession in 2020, were selected by trade unions in the respective countries. The inclusion criteria for selection of factories were as follows: • Factory is registered under national legislation. • Factory is operating in the supply chains of selected global apparel brands as a Tier 1 supplier. • Factories are present across major garment clusters in the respective countries, which are considered as the centres of garment manufacturing. Selection Of Workers The choice of factories satisfying the abovementioned criteria forms the sampling frame. Workers were selected from these factories based on their accessibility through trade unions. The selection of factories in all the countries followed a replacement sampling procedure, which allows the replacement of the selected factory if workers cannot be reached. The inclusion criteria for selection of workers were as follows: • They were employed in the garment factory for at least twelve months prior to the period of data collection. In other words, they were employed in the factory in the period prior to the pandemicinduced recession. • Proportionate representation based on gender, employment contract type, different departments and job roles in the factory was ensured to the extent possible.

Details Of Sampling The sample comprises workers employed in Tier 1 export factories operating in the supply chains of major global apparel brands, with 12


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11. Conclusion and Way Forward

13min
pages 190-196

Table 9.2: Cascading effect of brand actions on suppliers’ employment practices

2min
pages 170-171

in Global Garment Supply Chains

1min
page 168

8. Bangladesh

2min
pages 148-149

Figure 8.10: Trend in monthly household consumption, 2020

1min
page 162

Figure 7.18: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 145-147

Figure 6.20: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 123-125

7. Cambodia

1min
pages 126-127

Figure 6.6: Trend in wages by social category, 2020

3min
pages 111-112

Figure 6.5: Trend in monthly wages by gender, 2020

6min
pages 108-110

Figure 6.3: Trend in RMG exports from India - 2019 vs. 2020

2min
page 105

5. Indonesia

1min
pages 76-77

Table 5.2: Cuts in bonus payment by region, 2020

2min
page 92

Figure 5.20: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 97-99

Figure 5.7: Monthly wages by contract type across minimum wage regions, 2020

2min
page 87

Figure 4.18: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

2min
pages 73-75

Figure 4.12: Trend in wages, consumption and debt, 2020

2min
page 68

6. India

2min
pages 100-101

4. Pakistan

2min
pages 55-56

2. Methodology

1min
page 24

Table 2.2: Summary of key concepts and variables

5min
pages 28-31

Wage Theft in the Supply Chains of 15 Global

0
page 23

Typology of Managerial Practices and Wage Theft

1min
page 22

Table 2.1: No. of factories and workers surveyed across 6 countries

6min
pages 25-27

3. Sri Lanka

2min
pages 32-33

1. Introduction

15min
pages 14-21

Figure 3.19: Percentage of workers who received Covid-19 support from various sources

3min
pages 51-54
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