July 19-25, 2013
Lessons from the 1997 crisis
July 19-25, 2013
Contents Economy
Lessons from the 1997 crisis
Special report
Justice, Tibet style
Environment
How green was my city
July 19-25, 2013
Contents Lifestyle
Cooling off, the traditional way
Wildlife
Turtles in danger Fields of green
Food
Laos’ most famous dish
July 19-25, 2013
Contents Food
Travel
Protein with a crunch
Beer haven on the pavement
>>DATEBOOK
Happenings around Asia
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SPECIAL REPORT
Justice, Tibet style
The autonomous region develops unique ways to enforce the law
Buddhist beliefs and traditions play a big role in dispensing justice in Tibet. Ed Jones/AFP
| July 19-25, 2013
| July 19-25, 2013
Daqiong/China Daily
Liu Zhihua China Daily Beijing
W
hen someone is killed in a traffic accident in China the guilty party usually has to compensate the victim’s family, and might even serve a prison term. But that’s not always the case if the accident happens in the Tibet autonomous region. “Because of their Buddhist beliefs, people in Tibet think there’s no need to increase a family’s pain when someone’s life has already gone. They believe that doing good to others will help their lost loved one to reincarnate,” said Dawagyizom, a Lhasa native and lawyer who has worked at the Legal Assistance Centre of the Tibet autonomous region for five years. “That’s why you see a lot of fatal traffic accidents resolved
Dawagyizom (right), a Lhasa native and lawyer who has worked at the Legal Assistance Centre of the Tibet autonomous region for five years, talks with her client Lhadron.
more easily here than in other parts of the country.” Compared with people in the more affluent areas of China, many residents of Tibet lack legal awareness, despite the huge progress made in recent decades, said Dawagyizom. “In Lhasa, it’s fine but in a lot of other regions, especially the rural areas, people may resort to other means, rather
Zhou Yun (left) meets Chen Bo, deputy director of the centre. Chen helped Zhou win compensation of 230,000 yuan (US$37,400) after he lost a kidney in a work-related accident.
than seeking a legal solution.” To better help people defend their rights through the process of law, especially those from poverty-stricken areas, the legal assistance centre was established in Lhasa in 2001. It now employs more than 120 employees and covers every one of Tibet’s 73 counties. The centre not only helps people defend their rights,
| July 19-25, 2013
SPECIAL REPORT
but has also helped to change traditional views. One of Dawagyizom’s clients is Lhadron, a 34-year-old Lhasa housewife. Her father Palden Tsering fought with Lhadron’s stepmother last year, inflicting a slight injury to her leg in the process. Although the wound was minor, Lhadron’s stepmother went to the hospital to have it checked. While at the hospital, the woman became enraged, grabbed a knife and accidentally severed an artery in her leg. She later died of the injury. “I don’t know much about the law. At first, I thought my father would be tried and given a death sentence because my stepmother died. I cried everyday,” said Lhadron. Relatives advised her to seek help from the assistance centre. She was seen by Dawagyizom, who collected evidence from witnesses at the hospital that
proved the fatal injury was inflicted accidentally and was not a result of the fight between husband and wife. In addition to consulting a lawyer, Lhadron also spent a long time praying in the hall the family uses for worshipping Buddha. “I believe Buddha must have helped my father through this troubled time,” said Lhadron, after offering incense to a statue of the Buddha. “But what’s different now is that I don’t only believe in the blessings of Buddha, but also in the power of the law. In the past, we thought it shameful to go to court.” According to Chen Bo, deputy director of the centre, 70 per cent of the cases it deals with are labour disputes. “There are similar cases all over China—mainly construction workers who haven’t been paid for work they’ve done. Some are from outside Tibet, while
others are local farmers or herdsman,” said Chen, 45.
Mobile courts
Sometimes, it’s not just the cost that prevents people from consulting a lawyer, often they are daunted by distance. Fewer than 3 million people live in Tibet’s 1.2 million square kilometres of area. Settlements are few and far between, meaning that for many people the nearest judicial centre may be hundreds of kilometres away. The problem was resolved by the use of “mobile courts” that travelled across the vast plateau dispensing justice. In the early years, the court officials travelled on horseback, but in 2009, cars were introduced for 73 lower-level courts to speed up and simplify the process. “We help them to access the most convenient judicial services in the shortest period of time and at the lowest cost,”
| July 19-25, 2013
SPECIAL REPORT
said Phurbu Droma, who has worked as a judge at the mobile court of Doilungdeqen county in Lhasa for four years. On a sunny day in April, the 29-year-old drove for two hours to Nanba village to erect a tent at the foot of the snowcapped mountains. She and her colleagues were there to try a case in which an employer was accused of delaying payment of a worker’s salary for half a year. Tondub Tsering, the plaintiff, said that when village government officials tried but failed to persuade his employer to pay up, he decided to call the mobile court. “The judges came and opened the trial. The verdict of the court is highly prestigious and must be adhered to.” According to a work report compiled by the autonomous region’s high people’s court, the
mobile courts have travelled 3.62 million kilometres and tried 17,800 cases in the four years since they were introduced. “This is not like working in a solemn courtroom where the judges sit behind high desks. Here we can communicate with the locals like friends and hear what they think more closely,” said Phurbu Droma. The mobile courts have also helped to raise locals’ awareness of the law, even when a trial is not required. Locals can call on 46 liaison officers in 34 villages in Doilungdeqen county when they need to consult them or file a lawsuit. Gesang Drolkar, 48, a local official, said people used to turn to seniors and the Living Buddha to resolve conflicts in the past. But the seniors’ judgements were sometimes biased and favoured one side, especially if the cases involved their relatives
or friends. “The practice was not conducted according to the law and was often unfair.” As a result, local traditions have changed. For example, it has long been the practice that if a couple divorced the father would be awarded custody of the male children, while the mother got the girls. That practice has now been phased out. However, Phurbu Droma said the region faces a shortage of qualified judges, but the number of cases is rising. Moreover, because the mobile courts reduce and remit most of the costs of litigation, the courts face economic difficulties. “Travelling on the plateau is not easy. We came here so that the villagers would not have to take the trouble of travelling repeatedly to the county seat where the court is based,” she said.
| July 19-25, 2013
ECONOMY
PORNCHAI KITTIWONGSAKUL/AFP
Lessons from
the 1997 crisis
Thailand has learned the repercussions of a wrong foreign exchange policy Achara Deboonme The Nation Bangkok
T
ime flies. Sixteen years have passed since the Thai baht was no longer pegged to the US dollar, thus allowing it to move according to its own economic fundamentals. With a huge current account deficit against little foreign income, the baht plummeted in 1997 and fell to a record low of 56
to a dollar in January 1998. Many suffered in the tumultuous years that followed. In contrast to the foreign exchange rate, the unemployment rate shot up to a historical high of
4.5 per cent. Fortunately, the huge agricultural sector could absorb a large number of workers. In 1997, tens of thousands of whitecollar workers were laid off when 56 financial houses were shut
| July 19-25, 2013
ECONOMY
from the University of Texas in Austin in 1974, he worked in the finance and securities industry for 16 years. In 1990, he started his own business, investing in the stock market for individual clients. All gains were wiped out when the market crashed. His condominium project also collapsed. He lost all his money. A sandwich business was started with help from his employees. Earning 500 baht on the first day, his business is now established with booths at office buildings and hospitals. Sirivat today has returned to the stock market, but as a cautious investor. Many other individuals remember the pain of those days and have learnt not to forget. A post on Pantip.com tells another businessman’s story. Most of his clients went bankrupt at that time. He spent days collecting debts, only to recover enough to cover interest expenses. He realised that his
Pornchai KITTIWONGSAKUL/AFP
down. A number of banks had to merge as non-performing loans shot up to nearly 50 per cent. Years of hardship finally ended and it seemed we learnt lessons the hard way from the crisis. Several individuals were in the spotlight thanks to their return from the abyss. Among them was Thitinart Na Pattalung. At 20, she held two master’s degrees in economics, and management and business administration from the University of London. She went into business for herself at 25, but tragically lost her husband at 27 when her son was only eight months old. In addition to that crisis, she shouldered massive liabilities from businesses she and her husband had set up together. Her bestselling books “KemTid-Chee-Wit” (the “Compass of Life” I and II) sold like hot cakes, as many wanted to know how she had saved herself. Sirivat Voravetvuthikun was another. After graduating
A local bank official changes the exchange rate in December 1997. The Thai baht then broke dubious new records to about 42 baht to the dollar amid regional and local economic turmoil. At the time, the baht has lost more than 40 per cent since its devaluation in July of the same year.
business had huge assets, but as they could not be turned into cash quickly, they were just liabilities. Now, he has learnt to trust cash more than credit. Many workers with degrees were left without work, some with roots in provinces.
| July 19-25, 2013
ECONOMY
They started small projects cashing in on global trends, and “organic products” then became a buzzword. Because of the crisis, bank executives have become more cautious. Thailand’s credit market once again matches the country’s GDP, but the financial system’s NPLs are in the extra low level, below 5 per cent. Meanwhile, the capital base is nearly 20 per cent, more than twice the pre-1997 level. We have learnt well from the repercussions of a wrong foreign exchange policy. It is up to us to learn from others what a wrong fiscal policy could lead Thailand to. In an interconnected world, Thailand just can’t be isolated. Years of low rates in the US,
which spurred excessive consumption, resulted in the 2008 financial crisis and the huge injection of printed money that has now reached nearly $4 trillion. That cash injection has “benefited” many countries including Thailand and China, which has emerged as our main trade partner. Just a sign that the cash injection may be scaled down could send a big shockwave. On the 16th anniversary of the baht’s devaluation, we could experience that shockwave in a hard way. From extreme optimism on the back of huge capital inflows, pessimism could seep in as huge foreign capital flows out. Our financial markets suffer the most and exporters are next. Individuals have to
seek advice on how to protect their little wealth. Stock analysts have to scramble for reasons to explain why the market rose today and fell the next day. It meant a lot when I heard that one of my news sources was about to get married. Working in the financial market, he admitted that the past weeks had been extremely hectic and he had no time to prepare for the wedding this week. Yet, he sounded happy and excited about the wedding. Yes, we know that things will never be as simple as in the past. But what can we do is to live, learn and pray that our future path will be smooth. US$1 = 30.95 baht
ENVIRONMENT
| July 19-25, 2013 Prabir Das/The Daily Star
How green was my city Utopia of nature lovers disappears in the days of yore
Upashana Salam The Daily Star Dhaka
O
ld timers try to sell us the story of a Dhaka that used to be “rich in nature�. The streets, they say, used to be a sight to behold. Lined with trees of all size and shapes, filled with little ponds and lakes, Dhaka was truly the utopia of nature lovers. It seems
Instead of allowing for room between blocks of private residences, buildings are stacked next to each other, obstructing proper circulation of air.
| July 19-25, 2013
ENVIRONMENT
Prabir Das/The Daily Star
like urban legend to many who are used to the congested, smokefilled roads of the city. We are too busy cutting off our trees and then complaining about the lack of flora in the city to notice why our Dhaka is no longer the nature haven people claim it used to be. In order to save our environment and in turn our own lives, it has become imperative for us to understand the value of trees and learn how to preserve them from total annihilation. Samia Ahmed loves her potted plants. She has set a pretty little garden for herself in the balcony of her three-bedroom apartment. Her children often complain that her plants see more of her than they do. But She says that she feels happiest amongst her green friends. Ahmed grew up in a Dhaka which was abundant with every shade of nature. Lush green trees, clear lakes, relatively fresh air —these were a given part of her
youth. She remembers waking up to the smell of fresh fruits emanating from the trees in the courtyard of her childhood home. Her vacation mornings were spent under the shade of the
mango tree with a book to keep company. It is small wonder that she took this sight for granted; she never thought that there would come a day when she would starve for some greenery.
| July 19-25, 2013
ENVIRONMENT
and for the better part of his youth. Trees lined the sidewalks, providing enough shade to cool the blistering heat, Haider says. The sky was a clearer blue and people could not feel the heat as they do now even during most sweltering days of summer. “My friends and I would usually walk to most places because that would be more convenient. Even though the sun could get as cruel as it does now, we wouldn’t tire as easily as kids nowadays do. Trees provided us with shade that kept the heat at bay,” Haider says. Trees and open places with vegetation play an important role in combating temperature rise in the city. Pavements and roads of the city heat during the day, making it hotter at night. Moreover with the increased use of air conditioners in Dhaka, the city heats up quicker than it would have in the past as the exhaust heat of
Prabir Das/The Daily Star
It seems absurd to imagine that the arid metropolis we now live in used to once be known as the city of trees. The Dhaka most of us are familiar with is a virtually airless city, its streets choked up with vehicles of all shapes and sizes. It isn’t at all unusual to hear a litany of complaints regarding the pollution levels and the lack of space in the city. If you are living in Dhaka today, you cringe at the thought of going out to run a small errand. Leaving the comforts of your house to step into the unforgiving heat is an ordeal. Even a walk on the roads of Mohammadpur subdistrict or going for a daily jog in Mirpur subdistrict has become more of a pain than pleasure. It may be difficult to believe but these dense, over-populated areas of today were actually quite pleasant in the days of yore. Ashfaque Haider, a 64-yearold retired teacher, lived in Mohammadpur all his childhood
People nowadays have to depend on potted plants for a bit of green in their lives.
A/Cs push up the temperature. Apart from providing shade, trees evaporate water through their leaves, thus taking away the heat. Ironically, instead of saving these air conditioners of nature, we cut them down to make matters much worse for us than they already are. The flaw lies in the planning of the city, says Serajul Islam Chowdhury, eminent litterateur, editor and professor emeritus of Dhaka University as well as
| July 19-25, 2013
ENVIRONMENT
The Daily Star
a passionate activist against tree-cutting. There should be room between blocks of private residences to allow for breathing space. Instead, buildings are stacked next to each other, and there is no circulation of air, he adds. “The city has turned into a developed slum which is unfit for living. There is no vitality of life here anymore because there is a serious paucity of oxygenproducing greenery, and we’re bent on getting rid of what’s left of it,” says Chowdhury. Stipulations in Dhaka’s urban planning in 1919 stated that the city should have a green belt, even prescribing the number of trees that should be planted within the belt, says noted author and historian professor Muntasir Mamoon. However, this plan was not as thoroughly implemented as it should have been. “A formal survey ought to be conducted to ascertain
Muntasir Mamoon, a historian in Bangladesh.
Serajul Islam Chowdhury, eminent litterateur and professor emeritus of Dhaka University.
the present condition of trees in Dhaka. That should give us a proper understanding about where we stand in terms of our concern towards nature,” Mamoon says. Dhaka was as packed with dingy shops crowding its roads and pavements in the past as it is now, says Chowdhury. However, the abundance of flora within the city made it more liveable, he adds. The greenery that defined
the city is now being stripped away for commercial purposes, Chowdhury says. People don’t even have the option to visit parks anymore for a bit of green, as they are being replaced by residential complexes or business centres. “Land grabbers occupy parks for their selfish reasons. People cut trees with no thought toward the effect on the environment. How can we expect our children to understand the value of nature when we don’t?” questions Chowdhury. A country that is notorious for floods should be more careful about its treatment of trees. With fewer trees, the soil is unprotected and is consequently eroded. Its sediment goes into the sea, increasing the volume of water and load on rivers. Trees usually catch the water on their leaves when heavy rain occurs. But with fewer trees, the land becomes a runoff, increasing
| July 19-25, 2013
ENVIRONMENT
Prabir Das/The Daily Star
the volume of floodwater. “Trees act as natural weapons that can be used to combat more violent forces of nature,” says Md Ahsanul Haque Khan, chief architect of the Department of Architecture of the Ministry of Housing and Public Works. “People keep wondering about climate change and how it can be confronted. Well, the answer is staring us in the face but we are too busy to notice,” he adds. Traditional residential homes are being replaced by highrise buildings. The trees that surrounded homes are being cut down to make way for bigger parking garages and larger lobbies. In our need to increase land for settlements and urbanisation, we consider the felling of trees to be a small sacrifice. With more and more people moving into the capital city, there is a dire need for land space. Proponents of decentralisation argue that
A drive through neighbourhoods like Mintu Road gladdens the heart as the streets are lined with trees that cleanse the air and shade people from the brutal heat.
there would be more room for nature to flourish if the pressure was to be taken off the capital city. With equal opportunities offered outside of Dhaka, people could earn
sustainable livelihoods within their hometowns, thus leaving more space for both development and nature to cohabitate. “We are yet to find a balance with nature that can help us
| July 19-25, 2013
ENVIRONMENT
says Ahsanul Haque Khan. Homeowners usually suffer from the demanding lifestyle of the city which makes it difficult for them to maintain their homes. Thus, they often opt for selling the land to real estate agents, vainly wishing that they will be able to recreate the natural space within their new residence. Sadly, that is seldom so. Housing developers are obviously most interested in making the maximum profits by building high-rises with a number of flats that are cramped for space. Rooms of the buildings leave limited breathing space; a separate area where plant life can be nurtured in peace is unthinkable in such contexts. Kabir Ahmed Bhuiyan, the chief engineer of the Public Works Department (PWD) of the Bangladeshi government, informed us that the felling of trees to accommodate new buildings does not fall under
Prabir Das/The Daily Star
progress economically as well as mitigate the sufferings on the environment,” says Serajul Islam Chowdhury. “An unplanned, unbalanced plunge into what we consider to be development could be dangerous for our environment.” Those who are interested in preserving nature by not giving into the commercial demands of the day have to suffer from the unthinking activities of others. They are often surrounded by inconsiderate neighbours who are almost belligerent in their disregard to the flora so lovingly nurtured by their owners. “With more and more highrises being built in Dhaka, there is not much space or scope for individual homes to coexist alongside them. Neighbours from nearby buildings thoughtlessly throw garbage out of their windows when they see that the plot beside theirs is occupied by home owners,”
Plants and trees can be grown within the boundary of building complexes.
the jurisdiction of the said department. When pressed for more information, the chief engineer stated that the department tries to avoid the cutting of trees during the construction of new buildings but are often left with no option but to compromise. “Do you have any idea about the lack of land space in Dhaka? Growing demands for more housing projects force us to cut trees where there is a need but we don’t do so when it is
| July 19-25, 2013
ENVIRONMENT
Prabir Das /The Daily Star
avoidable,” says Bhuiyan. Interestingly, Bhuiyan’s trite response is in contrast to the department’s website information which states that “special emphasis has been given” by the PWD to “the planting of trees in all protect areas and the construction and conservation of lakes and ponds.” The site also states that the PWD works to “protect government interest regarding the environment” by integrating “environmental considerations into housing and urban planning activities”. Despite such claims on PWD’s website, the chief engineer was inclined to say that environmental concerns around construction of buildings don’t fall under his department’s command. Ahsanul Haque Khan, on the other hand, believes that those citing space constraints as a reason to fell trees don’t understand that nature can
Trees are brutally cut with no thought given to how this would affect the environment.
be accommodated within the boundaries of any building complex. Citing the example of Singapore, Khan argues that strict conditions are set within the building codes of the said country regarding the inclusion of breathing space within buildings. Khan says that his department has made amendments to the National Building Code to include for a certain percentage of green space that
should be set aside within every high-rise building to be constructed in future. He hopes that the amended building code will be passed soon. “We have included a provision in the National Building Code which makes it mandatory for owners to set at least 40 per cent green space within their buildings. If they fail to do so, their project will not be passed by the government,” he adds. When asked if Rajuk (the Capital Development Authority of the Government of Bangladesh) was also obligated to follow the amended rules, Khan says that under the building code, the autonomous city development body would have to check after giving permission for a building construction to see if the owners had allocated a green space as required. Khandakar Salahuddin, member of the development section of Rajuk, says that
| July 19-25, 2013
ENVIRONMENT
a building is permitted to be constructed only after permission is given by the Ministry of Environment. “We are careful to seek clearance from the Environment Ministry before approving the construction, particularly in the case of high-rise buildings,” he says. As a city, we lack an understanding about the kinds of plants and trees that would suit the country’s climate and weather, says Serajul Islam Chowdhury. Trees are not merely for the beautification of a city but they also serve a purpose, he adds. “We often see foreign trees and plants brought in to decorate the pavements and streets of the city. That is a huge mistake in part of the government as our climate is not suitable for the sustained growth of these trees,” he says. Chowdhury suggests planting local, preferably fruit bearing, trees in the city
as that would promote the country’s flora and would be easier to maintain as well. Muntasir Mamoon believes that concerned authorities don’t have a holistic knowledge of proper maintenance and protection of trees and plants. Citing the example of Bakul trees seen on some traffic islands, Mamoon states that these trees are not given the attention they deserve and thus, are not able to grow to their full potential. We mostly hear only about the environmental and social values of trees. As inherently materialistic creatures, human beings usually need a commercial motive to drive their decisions. Trees increase in monetary value over time. While individual trees and plants definitely have value, the collective influence of a wellmaintained landscape can result in a positive economic impact. In countries like the United States and Canada, the value of a
property increases significantly with the presence of good landscaping. Realtors in those countries believe that mature trees have a strong impact on the saleability prospects of a house. Housing developers of the city are moving their projects further and further away from the city in an attempt to lure customers with the promise of scenic greenery around them. It would be a more logical solution to develop urban areas that already have trees and plants surrounding them to ensure that people don’t have to leave the city to enjoy nature. Sadly, the popular notion in our country dictates that properties with vegetation will not be as economically valuable as vacant lands. “Bangladesh walks in the opposite direction from the rest of the world. While people in other countries are ready to pay extra for a natural landscape, we Bangladeshis are willing to
| July 19-25, 2013
ENVIRONMENT
sacrifice our open spaces in favour of small concrete boxes,” says Ahsanul Haque Khan. Ayesha Khanam, 55, sold her property after her husband died some years ago. The present owners promised that they would not sell the land to developers and keep the house as it was. When she went back to visit a few months later, Khanam was surprised to see that the owners had kept their promise. Moreover, the owners had even retained the garden she loved so much and maintained her trees and shrubs with as much care as she had. “They said that the garden offered them a peace of mind they could not get in the flat in which they lived earlier. They further went on to add that
the trees kept nosy neighbours at bay and also helped to reduce the sound pollution from the busy roads,” Khanam adds with satisfaction. There are a number of areas in Dhaka where a green sight still welcomes us. You will find the temperature dropping immediately when you visit Dhaka University in Fuller Road or if you happen to drive by the posh locality of Mintu Road. These areas have been able to hold on to a part of the lost city of trees only because a conscious effort were made to do so. “Teachers and students of Dhaka University will never allow for their trees to be felled by any government or authority. Whenever there have been
attempts to cut down some trees, the students and teachers hit the streets in protest. They carried out protest movements until the authorities were forced to back down,” says Muntasir Mamoon. Our country was singular in the richness of its flora. The natural wealth of that is reflected even in our proud green flag. It is unfortunate that our capital has been denuded of its trees and the multitude of aesthetic, health-related, and environmental benefits that these stalwarts of nature provide. While we may struggle to keep some greenery alive in our small ways, the government must make a sincere effort to retain whatever existing greenery we have in this city that is gasping for air.
| July 19-25, 2013
Wildlife
Turtles in danger Pollution and overfeeding push the species to the brink of extinction
The Daily Star
Anurup Kanti Das The Daily Star Chittagong, Bangladesh
B
ostami turtle is one of the rare species of turtles found in the world. The International Union for Conservation of Nature, an environmental organisation, classified the turtles “extinct in the wild� in 2002. In Bangladesh, these rare species of turtles can be found only in the pond of Baizid Bostami Mazar, a shrine at Chittagong city, a seaport city in southeastern Bangladesh. But at the shrine too, the turtles are in danger of becoming extinct because rampant pollution of the pond water and overfeeding by the devotees, who feed them with a view to obtaining divine blessing. The shrine authority is responsible for taking care of the turtles but does nothing to keep the pond, habitat of the turtles clean. As a result of the polluted pond water the turtles are getting sick. Fungus too can be seen on the bodies of the turtles.
| July 5-11, 2013
Wildlife
Turtles in danger Pollution and overfeeding push the species to the brink of extinction
The Daily Star
Anurup Kanti Das The Daily Star Chittagong, Bangladesh
B
ostami turtle is one of the rare species of turtles found in the world. The International Union for Conservation of Nature, an environmental organisation, classified the turtles “extinct in the wild� in 2002. In Bangladesh, these rare species of turtles can be found only in the pond of Baizid Bostami Mazar, a shrine at Chittagong city, a seaport city in southeastern Bangladesh. But at the shrine too, the turtles are in danger of becoming extinct because rampant pollution of the pond water and overfeeding by the devotees, who feed them with a view to obtaining divine blessing. The shrine authority is responsible for taking care of the turtles but does nothing to keep the pond, habitat of the turtles clean. As a result of the polluted pond water the turtles are getting sick. Fungus too can be seen on the bodies of the turtles.
| July 19-25, 2013
Wildlife
Turtles in danger Pollution and overfeeding push the species to the brink of extinction
The Daily Star
Anurup Kanti Das The Daily Star Chittagong, Bangladesh
B
ostami turtle is one of the rare species of turtles found in the world. The International Union for Conservation of Nature, an environmental organisation, classified the turtles “extinct in the wild� in 2002. In Bangladesh, these rare species of turtles can be found only in the pond of Baizid Bostami Mazar, a shrine at Chittagong city, a seaport city in southeastern Bangladesh. But at the shrine too, the turtles are in danger of becoming extinct because rampant pollution of the pond water and overfeeding by the devotees, who feed them with a view to obtaining divine blessing. The shrine authority is responsible for taking care of the turtles but does nothing to keep the pond, habitat of the turtles clean. As a result of the polluted pond water the turtles are getting sick. Fungus too can be seen on the bodies of the turtles.
| July 19-25, 2013
Wildlife
Turtles in danger Pollution and overfeeding push the species to the brink of extinction
The Daily Star
Anurup Kanti Das The Daily Star Chittagong, Bangladesh
B
ostami turtle is one of the rare species of turtles found in the world. The International Union for Conservation of Nature, an environmental organisation, classified the turtles “extinct in the wild� in 2002. In Bangladesh, these rare species of turtles can be found only in the pond of Baizid Bostami Mazar, a shrine at Chittagong city, a seaport city in southeastern Bangladesh. But at the shrine too, the turtles are in danger of becoming extinct because rampant pollution of the pond water and overfeeding by the devotees, who feed them with a view to obtaining divine blessing. The shrine authority is responsible for taking care of the turtles but does nothing to keep the pond, habitat of the turtles clean. As a result of the polluted pond water the turtles are getting sick. Fungus too can be seen on the bodies of the turtles.
| July 19-25, 2013
Wildlife
Turtles in danger Pollution and overfeeding push the species to the brink of extinction
The Daily Star
Anurup Kanti Das The Daily Star Chittagong, Bangladesh
B
ostami turtle is one of the rare species of turtles found in the world. The International Union for Conservation of Nature, an environmental organisation, classified the turtles “extinct in the wild� in 2002. In Bangladesh, these rare species of turtles can be found only in the pond of Baizid Bostami Mazar, a shrine at Chittagong city, a seaport city in southeastern Bangladesh. But at the shrine too, the turtles are in danger of becoming extinct because rampant pollution of the pond water and overfeeding by the devotees, who feed them with a view to obtaining divine blessing. The shrine authority is responsible for taking care of the turtles but does nothing to keep the pond, habitat of the turtles clean. As a result of the polluted pond water the turtles are getting sick. Fungus too can be seen on the bodies of the turtles.
uly 5-11, 2013
LIFESTYLE
Cooling off,
the traditional way While the rest of the world swelters, China keeps cool with the help of ancient practices Liu Zhihua China Daily Beijing
I
t is summer, but a rare heat wave recently had the weather bureau send out high temperature alerts to almost a third of all China’s provinces. Such weather can cause, at best, sunburn and, at worst, heatstroke, with a spectrum of symptoms in between, such as headaches, bubbling colds, mouth ulcers, indigestion and low spirits.
Herbal tea, made of ingredients with cooling properties, is a popular summer drink to diffuse internal heat. China Daily
| July 19-25, 2013
LIFESTYLE
the magic of TCM when he was a young boy. The 30-year-old used to spend his summer holiday in Shaoguan city, Guangdong province, where his aunt lives. It was a lot of fun, but the heat caused him to suffer nosebleeds. This is a typical symptom of too much internal heat, or shanghuo, he was told. His aunt made him a cooling herbal tea, or liangcha. Xu was made to drink a bowl of this slightly bitter medicinal tea every day to stop the nosebleeds. “It was like magic. My nose would stop bleeding if I had the tea faithfully every day, but if I did not drink it, my nose started bleeding the next morning,” Xu remembers. Liangcha was and still is a very common homemade summer drink in southern China. The dark brown tisane is usually bitter and sometimes slightly sweet, depending on the combination of herbs used.
China Daily
When heat waves linger across China, people resort to timetested ways to keep cool and healthy, many of which are based on the principles of traditional Chinese medicine, which has kept the Chinese in good health for thousands of years. Mostly, the main belief is food is medicine, and you have to keep healthy in summer by knowing what to eat and drink, rather than simply getting out of the heat and keeping cool. “Traditional Chinese medicine emphasises keeping harmony with nature and the environment, and living healthily in accord with seasonal changes,” says Xia Zhongyuan, a TCM practitioner with China-Japan Friendship Hospital in Beijing. “It is not just about treating illness but is more about a lifestyle that maintains body, mind and spirit.” Beijing resident Xu Dali remembers experiencing
Herbal teas are sold in cans in major supermarkets.
The most commonly used are mint, honeysuckle, lotus leaves, perilla, chrysanthemum and Arhat fruit, all of which TCM believes have cooling properties to diffuse internal heat.
Staying cool
Xia, the TCM specialist, says herbal tisanes (infusions) are very popular in south China, partly because the weather there is hotter and more humid than in the north, although
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LIFESTYLE
Roslan Ahman/AFP
the gap is closing these days. Different prescriptions of herbs prevent, relieve or cure a variety of summer ailments, such as sore throats, colds and indigestion. There are many shops selling tisanes in southern cities, such as Guangzhou and Hong Kong. Up north, the cooling drinks became popular more as soft drinks, and herbal teas are sold in cans, unlike the freshly brewed pots in the south. Diet is also important to keeping healthy in summer, and a light diet with “cooling” food is best, observes Xie Lijun, a TCM specialist with the No 3 Hospital of Beijing University of Chinese Medicine. “Food and drink in daily life play an important role in TCM practice,” Xie says. Foods with a cooling nature include cucumbers, beans, mushrooms, pearl barley and watermelons. They are light but rich in vitamins and proteins.
Traditional Chinese herbs sold in stores.
They also help the body remove excessive humidity, Xie notes. It is also eating according to seasons, because most of these vegetables, fruits and melons ripen in summer. Despite the urge to drink and eat cold food or drink in summer, Xie says it is better to have hot food in summer. Even cooling herbal teas are best drunk while still warm. Moderation is still the best guide though, as Xia, the specialist with the ChinaJapan Friendship Hospital, says too much cooling food may cause upset stomachs in people with weak digestions. A final caution from Xia: Staying in an air-conditioned room for too long may also subject your body to stress. Likewise, being exposed to too much sun is also unhealthy. The secret is to keep cool and eat healthily.—Li Xiang contributed to the story
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LIFESTYLE
Fields of
green
beauty and flavours in South Korea’s tea plantations transcend all seasons
LIFESTYLE
Julie Jackson The Korea Herald Boseong, South Jeolla Province
S
ince being first introduced to the country in the early ninth century by merchants returning from China, green tea has acquired a long history and rich culture in Korea. Today, one of South Korea’s best-known green tea plantations is the Daehan Tea Plantation here.
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LIFESTYLE
Julie Jackson The Korea Herald Boseong, South Jeolla Province
S
ince being first introduced to the country in the early ninth century by merchants returning from China, green tea has acquired a long history and rich culture in Korea. Today, one of South Korea’s best-known green tea plantations is the Daehan Tea Plantation here.
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LIFESTYLE
Julie Jackson The Korea Herald Boseong, South Jeolla Province
S
ince being first introduced to the country in the early ninth century by merchants returning from China, green tea has acquired a long history and rich culture in Korea. Today, one of South Korea’s best-known green tea plantations is the Daehan Tea Plantation here.
| July 19-25, 2013
| July 19-25, 2013
LIFESTYLE
The vibrant green tea fields of Boseong attract around 1 million visitors every year, who come to experience green tea in its most natural state while marvelling at the beauty of the fields’ picturesque hillside appearance. “Visiting the green tea plantation during any of the four seasons is a great experience,” says Choi Oh-bog of the Boseong District Culture and Travel Centre. “However, I highly recommend visiting during May and June when the tea leaves are at their greenest.” A walk through Boseong’s labyrinth of green tea fields, which are spread out over some 560 hectares, is an unforgettable experience. Nestled in the centre of a heavily forested area, the plantation features row upon row of green tea plants in a wavy pattern, giving it a maze-like feel. In between each row are narrow paths where visitors can wander touching, picking
and smelling some of South Korea’s premier tea leaves. In the springtime when the plants begin to flower, the fields give off an intoxicating scent. “Boseong’s tea has a unique taste unlike any other tea because the tea plantation is located 100 metres above sea level, and the cool breeze that comes in from the ocean as well as the mist changes the air temperature of the area,” said Choi. Surrounding the plantation is a never-ending array of cedar trees, providing natural shade for the leaves. “The tea leaves grown here are also distinct in the fact they are hardly ever exposed to any direct sunlight, which is not good for the leaves,” she explained. The vast Daehan plantation was established in 1939 during Japan’s colonial rule over Korea. After Korea’s liberation in 1945 and the subsequent departure of the Japanese, the plantation
was left abandoned until a Korean entrepreneur purchased the neglected fields and created the Daehan Tea Plantation. Boseong was originally selected as the most ideal place to produce green tea because of the area’s deep and fertile soil, as well as its location near Yulpo Beach. This makes for an ideal climate that is cool and moist. Due to its premier location, the green tea that is produced in Boseong has a distinguishing aroma, as well as a full-bodied taste. The aroma and flavour of green tea are greatly affected by both the roasting process of the leaves, and also when the tea leaves are picked. Ujeon green tea is made from young tea buds and leaves picked around late April and is the most expensive, averaging around 70,000 won (US$60) to 130,000 won ($111) per pack. Sejak green tea is typically considered the next best grade of green tea and
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LIFESTYLE
is made of young tea leaf buds handpicked between the end of spring and the start of summer. Sejak green tea averages around 30,000 won ($26) per pack. Boseong is considered the birthplace of the commercial tea industry in Korea and is the largest producer of tea in the nation, accounting for approximately 40 per cent of the country’s total green tea production. The plantation is one of the country’s most visited, thanks to an annual green tea festival Boseong has hosted for the past 39 years. The Boseong Green Tea Festival, one of Korea’s major tea festivals, is typically held in May at Korean Tea and Sori Cultural Park. Some of the most popular events held during the Boseong Green Tea Festival include going out into the fields and picking tea leaves, then learning how to roast them. Participants
also have the opportunity to sample all sorts of green-teainfused snacks and drinks. The annual festival also features a hanbok fashion show, music performances and various hands-on programmes such as tea bowl making, tea-based food making, green tea beauty and health experiences, green tea rice cake making, green tea sampling, green tea soap making and more. Aside from the popular springtime Boseong tea festival, the plantation also hosts a special winter festival for guests to experience the field at night. “Visiting the fields during the Boseong Green Tea Light Festival in the wintertime is also a truly a wonderful experience,” said Choi. One of the highlights of the winter light festival is the 120-metre-high “Millennium Tree,” which is decorated with more than 100,000 lights, making its way into the Guinness Book of World Records in 2000.
The citizens of Boseong have managed to infuse green tea in very aspect of their lives. Along with the county’s bountiful production of green tea drinks, cakes, cookies and ice cream, one of the areas main local dishes is nokcha samgyeopsal, grilled pork belly from pigs that are fed green tea leaves. Another of South Korea’s bustling green tea plantations is Jeju Island’s Seogwang Tea Field, located next to the O’Sulloc Museum, which annually attracts more than 1 million visitors per year. O’Sulloc tea is the signature tea of Jeju Island and is appreciated for its distinct flavour. “First off, Jeju Island has unique soil and organic matter in that it originated as a volcanic crater,” said Kim Jeong-hoon, O’Sulloc Tea brand manager. “In addition to that, the area has an average temperature of 160C as well as an average rainfall
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LIFESTYLE
of 1,880mm, which are great conditions for cultivating tea.” The Seogwang Tea Field is located in the southern region of Jeju Island and its tea leaves are one of the origins of O’Sulloc green teas, one of
Korea’s most familiar brands of tea, produced by the cosmetics giant Amore Pacific Corp. Aside from the plantation and the tea museum, O’Sulloc has also established a chain of tea houses that serve green tea concoctions
It’s all in the water Lee Woo-young The Korea Herald Seoul
K
orean green tea has been traditionally well known for its taste and quality thanks to the clean water found in Korean nature, according to Park Kwang-ok, director of the eastern Seoul office of the Korea Tea Culture Association. “The quality of water and temperature affect the taste of tea.
such as straight latte, soda, and shake variations to name a few as well as green tea cakes and desserts. Even skin care products made using green tea are sold at the O’Sulloc Tea House.
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LIFESTYLE
Korea is known for the clean water, one of the important factors for making a goodquality tea,” said Park in an interview with The Korea Herald. “The high quality of tea has affected the tea ceremony of Korea,” said Park. Because of the high quality of the tea, he said, Koreans didn’t have to focus on performances such as exaggerated hand gestures, but rather on the sincere act of brewing goodquality tea for their guests. Korea, China and Japan share a long history of tea culture, which has been at the base of the rich civilisations developed in East Asia. However, the tea ceremonies of the neighbouring countries vary in style. In China, the tea ceremony is conducted to emphasise the aroma of the tea; in Japan, the colour of the tea; and in Korea, the taste and style and grace.
“The Chinese tea ceremony features performances such as pouring water from high up in the air to the table to stimulate tea leaves brewing in the water,” Park said. “The Japanese tea ceremony features stricter guidelines as the culture was developed by the warrior elites.” “In Korea, offering tea shows the manners and style of one’s family. When guests are invited, the female host of the house serves tea and some sweets with her daughter. Through the teaserving process, guests would get an idea of their family’s tradition and customs,” said Park. “Yet, it was more about serving guests and building friendships, than showing off.” A unique tea culture of Korea called gyubang darye (tea ceremony) was developed inside the living room where Korean women of the Joseon period spent most of their time making various household
crafts and receiving guests. Because of Confucian values that supported patriarchal Joseon society, women were not allowed to go outside freely, but had to stay inside. The gyubang tea ceremony is part of the culture developed among women of high class. The Korea Tea Culture Association preserves the tradition of gyubang tea ceremony as its chairman Lee Gui-rye holds the title as Korea’s intangible cultural property for the gyubang tea ceremony. However, as the Japanese tea ceremony started to prevail in Korea during the colonial period, the Korean tea ceremony has been little acknowledged by the Korean public. “A Korean man asked me whether we have our own tea ceremony when I was performing the traditional gyubang tea ceremony along with other tea masters from
| July 19-25, 2013
LIFESTYLE
Japan and China. I was shocked when he said that,” said Park. In the Korean tea ceremony, guests drink the first cup of tea without dessert to fully appreciate the taste and aroma. In the second round, guests are offered traditional
sweets made of sesame, chestnut, honey and more. “The desserts that are served with tea should not be too sweet, or too big that they hinder the experience of drinking tea,” said Park. “Fruits are not served either.”
Guests get the honour of having the last drop of tea, considered to have the best taste. “The last drop of the tea bowl has the best taste. It’s a precious drop that Korean ancestors called ‘the drop of jade,’” said Park.
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FOOD Vientiane Times
Laos’ most delicious dish Street stall helps mother support six children and wins food competition
Phon Thikeo Vientiane Times Vientiane
“ Papaya salad prepared by Thongsavanh.
Almost all Lao people know how to pound papaya salad, but to make a delicious papaya salad is not an easy matter,” explains Thongsavanh, who is qualified to know, after her tam mak houng (green papaya salad) was judged the best in town.
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FOOD
Vientiane Times
Thongsavanh was judged the winner of the papaya salad competition at the annual food festival in Vientiane this year, which is organised by the Lao Women’s Union and the Lao Businesswomen’s Association. Her tam mak houng is officially sep lai—the most delicious. She has had plenty of practice as she is the owner of a mobile papaya salad shop. She doesn’t have a permanent place to sell her fare, but moves around according to where the demand is greatest instead. When she attended the food festival, her mobile stall was located on Manthathourath Road behind the National Culture Hall. She used this area to sell tam mak houng for a while before moving back to her previous location near the Health and Technology College (now known as the Faculty of Nursing), she explained. Thongsavanh started selling papaya salad more than five years
Papaya salad and other local snacks at the stall.
ago after she stopped selling lottery. She has almost always been a street vendor, but deciding what was the best thing to sell was not
difficult for her. She chose to sell papaya salad because it is a staple part of people’s diet. “Lao people eat papaya salad with sticky rice
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FOOD
She recalled the day she visited the annual food festival at the National Culture Hall this year. It was the first time she had taken part, and it took her a while to work up the courage to do so. In previous years, she didn’t dare enter the food festival competition because she wasn’t confident that her papaya salad would make the grade. “I received plenty of encouragement from my customers,” she explained. “They told me to enter the competition at the food festival because my papaya salad tastes very good and is different from that sold at many other shops in Vientiane.” After receiving encouragement from many female customers, she decided to give it a go because if she could establish a name for herself it would be a good opportunity to increase her trade. Thongsavanh was both surprised and delighted to receive the first prize award, certifying
Vientiane Times
pretty much every day,” she said. And she loves it herself as well. “Papaya salad is my favourite food. I eat papaya salad any time that I like. Papaya salad always tastes good. I get bored when I eat noodle soup every day, but I never get sick of eating papaya salad.” Starting from lunch time onwards every day, her shop begins to get busy with many customers waiting. Her papaya salad is very popular with the lunch time crowd. She also sells hot coffee, white and black, as well as iced coffee for those who prefer. Her stall is not quite as busy on the weekends, so sometimes she has Saturdays and Sundays off, depending on how she feels. However she likes to sell as much as she can because she comes from a low-income family, and while her stall makes quite good money, it is only a modest living. She still struggles to provide for her family, and thinks a lot about her six children’s future education.
Street vendor Thongsavanh pounds papaya salad at her mobile food stall in Vientiane.
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FOOD
that her papaya salad is the most delicious in Vientiane. “I didn’t ever think my papaya salad would receive the first prize award from the organisers. I thought that I might win a few new customers from the festival, but never expected to win the award because there are lots of famous papaya shops from around the city and from the provinces,” she said. Everyday people who ate papaya salad at the food festival considered hers to be the most delicious, and she won the prize after receiving a great many votes. Representatives from the Lao Businesswomen’s Association and the Lao Women’s Union awarded her a certificate and some
prize money as well, she said. “My papaya salad is very popular. I am able to sell at least 20 kilos of papaya every working day,” she said with a smile. “Every day is a busy day and I have to hire some people to help me pound papaya because I have so many customers.” She sells a portion of tam mak houng for 10,000 kip (US$1.29). “I earn at least one million kip per day and I earn about two million kip from selling softdrinks. The income is quite good and it is better than selling lottery,” she smiled. She said after she received the award, many people now want her to serve a papaya salad dish when they make merit, have a birthday
party, or at other celebrations. “Now I am busy on Saturday and Sunday. I don’t open my stall on the weekends because I serve papaya salad for people at their homes.” Thongsavanh said she will continue selling papaya salad for the foreseeable future, but because her dish is so popular now, she is considering opening up a permanent shop. “I would like to do my bit to promote this very famous Lao food, serving the most delicious papaya salad I can every single day,” she smiled. And judging from her popularity, she is not likely to be short of customers any time soon.
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FOOD
Protein with a crunch Not for the queasy: insects are eaten as snacks in Thailand
Kitchana Lersakvanitchakul The Nation Bangkok
hais are no strangers to such gourmet delights as crickets deep-fried with garlic and chilli and indeed hungry customers queue up every night at the edible insect stalls around town to sink their teeth into a cicada. They’re popular too in other parts of Asia, with bees considered a sign of virility in China and aquatic fly larvae sauteed in sugar and soy sauce a sought-after delicacy in Japan.
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FOOD
The United Nations Food and Agriculture Office (FAO)’s recent report, “Edible Insects: Future Prospects for Food and Feed Security” estimates that about 2 billion people worldwide— largely in Asia, Africa and Latin America—are entomophagists, or people who eat insects. It also urges all of us to turn to insects as a protein source and makes the point that the creepycrawlies are a resource that will allow the world to keep up with its increasing population while saving the environment. The most commonly edible insect groups, according to FAO, are beetles, caterpillars, bees, wasps, ants, grasshoppers, locusts, crickets, cicadas, leaf and plant-hoppers, scale insects and true bugs, termites, dragonflies and flies, all of them a healthy, nutritious alternative to mainstream staples like chicken, pork, beef and even fish. Prima ‘Pat’ Yontrarak, a
16-year-old student of Harrow International School, is a firm believer in insect power. She chose them as her research subject for an observational scientific project organised by Nanmeebooks and her findings have been
published in both English and Thai in “The Poor Land of Plenty: Edible Insects and Other Natural Sources of Nutrients”. “I know that the UN is campaigning for people, especially those in poor countries, to
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FOOD
consume edible insects. Given their abundance, it’s a good solution to hunger and malnutrition. My research has been sent to the UN here in Thailand and also to the libraries of neighbouring countries such as Laos, India and Cambodia,” says Pat. “I never expected my research to be adapted to pocketbook form. I was just aiming to collect several insects and detail them on my website for people who are interested. I’ve been fascinated by science since my childhood and my dream is to study biochemistry in America. Thailand lacks scientists and researchers but we really need them; they are very important to the development of our country,” she adds. Pat’s book examines insects and other dietary sources commonly found in Isaan, the northeastern heartland of Thailand. It also encompasses nutritional value, non-food usage of these sources and their cultivation.
“I couldn’t help wonder if the villagers were still healthy and what they consumed as part of their daily lives. At international school, we are encouraged to think about the problem and solve it practically. The knowledge that I could make a difference was the inspiration for me to conduct the research,” she says. The youngster was also involved with the design of her first book, which she wanted to look professional but friendly. It looks at 10 edible insects: Bombay locust, Oriental migratory locust, red ant, house cricket, scarab beetle, dung beetle, giant water bug, Oriental mole cricket, cicada and alate. “In the villages, I asked the children and teachers about the kind of insects that are most popularly eaten,” says Pat. “I tasted phad phed ngoo singha [spicy fried Indochinese rat snake] and yam khai mod daeng (Isaan ant eggs salad) and found them surprisingly good. As a child, I spent lots of
time in Pak Chong and often helped the villagers catch insects. “I was very surprised at the life cycle of the jakajan [cicada], which is more or less in the same form as it was 200 million years ago. It spends 16 years underground before emerging outside for two months where it moults and then dies. Cicadas have a high nutritional value and contain more protein than pork, beef and chicken. “The main obstacle to conducting research was the lack of information on the nutritional value of several insects, which
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FOOD
doesn’t appear on the Internet or in books. I did find out the nutritional value of insects for chameleons though!” While Pat likes insects, she admits to hating reptiles and says she shudders when she sees a chameleon. She’s now turned her attention to chitin, a biodegradable polymer found in the shells of golden apple snails and crabs, which has several commercial uses.
“Fishermen take tonnes of golden apple snails but get only a tiny amount of a little bit of chitin. I’m looking at ways of how it can be abstracted. It’s useful for agriculture, cosmetics and medicine,” she says. Her motto is “No act of kindness, no matter how small, is ever wasted”, explaining: “If we want to help anyone, even if it’s just a little, the action isn’t wasted. It is beneficial to people’s lives.
“I would like this book to be an inspiration for the new generation of Thai kids to understand a different way of thinking and carry out their own research. Most of them just study theory in the classroom. It’s far more important to gain knowledge from practice.” Pat’s complete, unabridged compendium of edible insects is available online at PoorLandOfPlenty.com.
TRAVEL
| July 19-25, 2013 Vientiane Times Locals often sit around Ta Hien Street in Ha Noi to drink beer and chat after work.
Beer haven on the pavement
| July 19-25, 2013
TRAVEL
Ounkham Pimmata Vientiane Times Hanoi
I
t’s sunset, and groups of Vietnamese men sit on small plastic chairs at low tables—some are without a table at all—on sidewalks at Hanoi’s Old Quarter. In front of them are glasses of beer, while, cigarettes in hand, they talk to friends. Most men’s smoking comes hand-in-hand with drinking beer or tea in Vietnam. With the cigarette smoke in my nose and face, loud conversation around me and the endless sound of motorbike horns—“peep peep”—instead of music, I say to myself: “Welcome to Vietnam”. A woman bestows on me a glass of beer, speaking in Vietnamese and pointing to offer food; I smile slightly to her and wave a hand, telling her
I don’t want anything else. Sitting on such a small chair to drink is inconvenient, even though I’m used to sitting down for a drink with friends. Several drinkers sit close together, but while I am still a stranger in their group—I can adapt to their drinking culture. The atmosphere grows louder and louder but still I am silent, as I try to converse with guys sitting close to me who don’t speak English. However the language barrier can’t stop my efforts to build a better atmosphere with the local drinkers though body language. Finally, I end up in happy conversation and meet new friends. Generally people here hardly smile, but if you open your heart, they are friendly. English causes a problem for local traders in Vietnam, with the country’s tourism industry growing each year. Vietnam welcomed 6.8 million
visitors last year, and this year the tourism industry aims to serve 7.2 million foreigners, according to a Time Out magazine report. Some women join the men to have a drink, although it isn’t as common to see a woman cheering up with a glass of beer in Vietnam—they take good care of their health and image. A Vietnamese woman who can speak English told me women would look bad in the eyes of others if they drank beer or wine, but recently there has been change, and you could see a few women drinking.
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TRAVEL
Women sometimes also like hanging out with friends to relax with a softdrink or fruit juice. Every evening in Hanoi, you can see Vietnamese men sitting on every street or at restaurants along the sidewalk. These places are always crowded in the early evening when the locals finish work. Hanoi is also a haven for tourists looking for a different beerdrinking experience, where you can sit at knee-high plastic tables on the sidewalk and order a glass of beer—or a bottle, depending on how long you plan to stay. One glass of beer often costs around 5,000-7,000 Vietnamese dong (US$0.24-0.33) while a small bottle sells at 10,000-15,000 dong, depending on where you sit. Most local people order a glass of the city’s famous draft beer, Bia Hoi, over a plate of steamed peanuts, giant crackers and nem phung (rice and pork dish), and sit down to chat about their daily lives.
The beer bars are mostly on the sidewalk where drinkers sometimes have to raise their voices over the noise of motorbike traffic or breathe in the clouds of diesel exhaust belched by a passing bus.
Avoiding tourist scams
Vietnam is vigilant of unscrupulous locals cheating tourists, with police and local authorities working hard to protect visitors’ rights and safety, but some traders still break the rules. For example, I had an experience with three friends—two Thais and a Filipino—at a small seafood shop on the footpath. We ordered two plates of blood oysters, four of prawns and three cans of Pepsi, but forgot to ask the price. It was a shock to us when the bill arrived, charging us 1.1 million dong (US$52), while we couldn’t send back a can of Pepsi (another US$1.40). We didn’t know how to deal with
the unfair charge as we couldn’t see a tourist help point anywhere. Later, a Vietnamese friend told me you can take the bill with you or take the restaurant’s photo to inform local police and reclaim your lost money. He advised me you should always ask the price before ordering any items, and stick to restaurants offering menus which include prices to protect yourself. Never eat or drink anything which you haven’t ordered, even if they put it on your table. Before payment you should check food and beverage
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TRAVEL
items to ensure the staff followed your order. With a few tips before visiting, Vietnam is a wonderful country of natural beauty, strong culture and traditions, a great lifestyle and French colonial architecture that you should explore.
How to join the sidewalk drinkers
If you’re drinking alone or staying with friends and want to discover the taste of a local drink, just learn a few phrases. “Mot, hai, ba…zo!” (One, two, three …go!) and “tram phan tram” (bottoms up) will encourage the local drinkers to share a drink and will help you make friends during your holiday. Another experience on the pavement is listening to the mixed sounds of people and
vehicles passing by—if you sit in the perfect spot, you can also enjoy the music from the bar. It becomes even more exciting when police visit areas like Ta Hien Street in the Old Quarter—groups of people sit around eating and drinking, but you have to move inside when the police arrive. Local authorities do not allow chairs on the pavement as it hinders the city’s clean-up plans; however, when police have gone, service carries on as per usual. Vietnamese men often warm up a cup of cool tea in the morning, before returning to sit with a glass of cool beer in the evening. The writer is a Vientiane Times staff reporter working in an exchange programme in Vietnam.
DATEBOOK
| July 19-25, 2013
Bangkok
Queen Sirikit’s Birthday Thailand celebrates her beloved Queen’s birthday with pomp, processions and dancing that will fill the streets in commemoration on this national public holiday, which is also celebrated as Mothers’ Day. When: August 12 Where: Grand Palace and Ratchadamnoen Avenue areas Info: www.sonicbang.net
DATEBOOK
| July 19-25, 2013
Shanghai
Shanghai Jing, Shan Hai Jing: A dual exhibit FQ Projects presents a summer showcase of works on paper. Featuring watercolour artists, the young, upcoming Chai Yiming whose traditional art education have influenced his softer, impressionist styles and the veteran Wang Dawei’s bold, heavy strokes on rice paper their canvases, the exhibition shows off a contrast of backgrounds and styles between the artists. Works exhibited will see themes revolving around the hardship of daily life in China and classical Chinese scenes. When: Until August 15 Where: 927 Huaihai Zhong Lu
Seoul
World Hiphop Festival 2013 Bringing together top hiphop artists from Korea and around the world, this year’s lineup at the festival will see international names such as The Game, Busta Rhymes, Ray J and Tha Dogg Pound. Local artists to perform at the festival include VerbalJint, Beenzino, SanE, Paloalto, and many more. When: July 27-28 Where: Kintext Hall, Seoul Info: ticket.interpark.com
DATEBOOK
| July 19-25, 2013
India
Nag Panchami (Snake festival) Not a festival for the faint-hearted, Nag Panchami commemorates the worship of snakes which are specially cared for with a diet of fresh milk and rats for the occasion. It is mostly celebrated in rural parts of the country by villagers who dance while carrying the snakes in pots to the temple to perform rituals. After the rituals are completed, the snakes are taken out of the pots where temple priests sprinkle turmeric and red-powder on their raised heads. They are then offered milk and honey, and released into the temple courtyard. Snake charmers are seen more frequently on the streets of India following up to this festival. When: August 11 Where: Mostly in rural areas, particularly Battis Shirala village, Maharastra. Other popular places include Adiesha Temple in Andhra Pradesh, Nagaraja Temple in Kerala, Nagathamman Temple in Chennai, and Hardevja Temple in Jaipur
Malaysia
Hari Raya Aidilfitri As Muslims celebrate the end of the Ramadhan season, the whole country also goes into festival mode for the entire month with many food bazaars and night markets selling traditional fare to be enjoyed after Muslims break fast in the evenings. When: Until August 9 (Hari Raya Aidilfitri falls on August 8-9, while fasting season is throughout the entire month) Where: All over Malaysia