March 14-20, 2014
Asia’s finest The great and the good in Asia’s restaurant industry
Contents March 14-20, 2014
❖ Food
❖ Weekly Briefing
❖ Politics
Asia’s finest
Asia this week
Manoeuvring a corrupt system
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Contents March 14-20, 2014
❖ Politics
❖ Politics
❖ Society
❖ Food
Will the real democrats please stand up?
A lesson on German atonement
The scourge of bombastic bloggers
Pulao: more than just a dish
Contents March 14-20, 2014
❖ Food
❖ Travel
Datebook
Another world of washoku
Slow boats to China
Happenings around Asia
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March 14-20, 2014
WEEKLY BRIEFING
AFP
Great East Japan Earthquake Three years after, as many as 270,000 people still live as evacuees. Majority of them are in Miyagi prefecture (89,882) and Fukushima (85,589).
March 14-20, 2014
WEEKLY BRIEFING
AFP
MISSING MALAYSIAN AIRLINES FLIGHT
WEEKLY BRIEFING
March 14-20, 2014
Malaysia Airlines flight MH370 went missing on the evening of March 7 en route from Kuala Lumpur to Beijing. There were 239 people on board including an all-Malaysian crew. At least two passengers were carrying stolen passports. Here’s the breakdown of the passengers according to country: Australia 6 Canada 2 China 152 France 4 Hong Kong 1 India 5 Indonesia 7 Iran 2* Malaysia 50 (including 12 crew) Netherlands 1 New Zealand 2 Russia 1 Taiwan 1 Ukraine 2 United States 3 Total 239
* Two passengers identified as Iranians were carrying stolen passports. At least 10 countries are involved in the search for the missing aircraft: Malaysia Australia China Indonesia New Zealand Philippines Singapore Thailand United States Vietnam They have dispatched a total of 34 aircraft and 40 ships to the area.
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March 14-20, 2014
Manoeuvring a corrupt system HIPOLITUS YOLISANDRY RINGGI WANGGE The Jakarta Post Evanston, Illinois
W
hy are populist figures in Indonesia being challenged to operate in a corrupt political system? This is a critical question prior to the legislative and presidential elections, and the issue concerns Jakarta Governor Joko ‘Jokowi’
Widodo and Surabaya Mayor Tri Rismaharini. Nationally, both figures have good, clean reputations, yet they have to face unyielding challenges, namely from oligarchs and elites. The “corrupt political system” refers to a political system dominated and abused by a few pow-
erful people or groups for their own interests. These people are oligarchs and members of the elite. Elites are certain people or groups who have highly concentrated coercive power, mobilisational power and official or party positions, distributed in a highly exclusive way. In contrast, as the political scholar
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Jeffrey Winters writes, oligarchs are those with significant fortunes accumulated from economic wealth. Both elites and oligarchs can have similar interests in inhibiting potential challenges or radical demands that threaten them. They can form a collective action such as a political party. In the case of Jokowi, the party has “detained” him to meet public demand. Similarly, in Risma’s case, it is not only the local legislative council, but also her own party that has been dominated by businesspeople and party elites who resist her populist policies. Jokowi has been performing well in managing Indonesia’s most populated city; for example, he battled the government regarding the cheap car policy, preferring to improve public transportation. Jokowi has rejected Vice President Boediono’s idea of selling “low-cost green cars” to Jakarta’s residents. It was widely believed that au-
MEGAWATI SOEKARNOPUTRI (CENTRE) WITH TRI RISMAHARINI (LEFT) AND JOKO WIDODO (RIGHT).
tomobile business groups were behind this proposal, targeting Indonesia as a potential market for low-price cars. Above all, the public is looking forward to knowing whether Jokowi will run as the Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle’s (PDI-P) presidential candidate.
The decision is in the hands of PDI-P chairperson Megawati Soekarnoputri. Apparently, Megawati has not given up on the idea of her third bid as the party’s candidate, even though that option is unlikely to increase her party’s odds of winning the election.
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March 14-20, 2014
RICKY YUDHISTIRA
TRI RISMAHARINI
In the case of Risma, the collaboration between party elites and oligarchs in the legislative council was a significant challenge to her public service policies. In particular, as reported by the weekly magazine Tempo, three issues have prompted Risma to step down as Surabaya’s mayor.
First, the battle over the construction of a toll road across Surabaya, in which Risma favoured improving the city’s public transportation. Second, following this, Surabaya’s city council—supported by the PDI-P —attempted to oust her, but failed. The rejection of Risma by the PDI-P and its oligarchic component continued, when she wanted to raise the billboard advertising tax. In these two cases, the shared interest of business people and political elites was the obvious motivation behind the resistance to Risma’s ideas. And third, the “punch” against Risma was the covert appointment of PDI-P’s local head and deputy speaker of the city council, Wisnu Sakti Buana, as the new deputy mayor—a move that Risma believed was another attempt to topple her. Thus, populist figures have been
captured by the corrupt political system. On the one hand, they are personality-based figures, who differ from mass mobilisational figures, such as Lula Da Silva and Evo Morales in Latin America. Da Silva and Morales were able to transform their societal support into populist parties. Accordingly, they received full support to implement populist policies without strong resistance from parliament or their own parties. Yet Jokowi and Risma are also elites, since they received official positions. These two prominent leaders emerged from the middle class. Jokowi was a carpenter-turned-politician and Risma was a true-blue bureaucrat. They had no mass political mobilisation to challenge established political elites and oligarchs. The only option they had was to enter a well-established political party, namely the PDI-P, to be
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P.J LEO
JOKO WIDODO
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eligible to run for governmental positions. There is a huge gap between elite and grassroots levels in terms of building strong political influence. In Indonesia’s modern history, the banned Indonesian Communist Party (PKI) was widely known for its intimate relationship with the grassroots movement. The masses could be mobilised to support certain party policies, whether in favour of or against the government. However, since Soeharto took over the government in 1966, Indonesian society has been distanced from politics. The concept of a “floating mass” was widely disseminated by Ali Murtopo, Soeharto’s righthand man; it meant that people would not play any political roles or organise any political movements and therefore would devote all their efforts to economic development. Since then, no
populist figures have arisen from a grassroots level. What we are seeing today are politicians emerging from the middle class. On the one hand, the emergence of populist figures is the result of a deficient political system, creating conditions that are ripe for populism. On the other hand, these figures have no political-based organisations that can continually draw support from society to impose populist policies. They must frequently abide by the party’s rules. Occasionally, pro-people policies are at odds with party interests. In this regard, populist policies have to fall in line with the party’s instruction. So far, the case of Risma has illustrated this pattern clearly. Furthermore, populist figures in a corrupt political system risk being used by other political parties. Certain parties, such as the National Mandate Party (PAN), the Democratic Party and the
Golkar Party have expressed interest in making Jokowi their own candidate. However, these moves were blocked by the PDI-P. Similarly, if Risma quits as mayor, the Gerinda Party, Golkar and even the Democrats are willing to put her forward as a strong running mate. For these parties, Jokowi and Risma are vote magnets. This is a very pragmatic reason to recruit them, but it does not guarantee that, in the future, party elites will not continue to threaten the performance of these two leading populist figures. The writer is a visiting scholar in the equality development and globalisation studies programme at the Buffet Center for International and Comparative Studies, Northwestern University, the US. This article was first published in The Jakarta Post. ¬
March 14-20, 2014
The ousters of democratically-elected leaders have often been carried out, directly or indirectly, by champions of democracy themselves CHANDRA MUZAFFAR The Star Petaling Jaya
AFP PHOTOS
Will the real democrats please stand up?
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I
f Ukraine is on the brink of a catastrophe, it is mainly because the present regime in Kiev and its supporters, backed by certain Western powers, violated a fundamental principle of democratic governance. They ousted a democratically-elected president through illegal means. President Viktor Yanukovich, who had come to power through a free and fair election in 2010, should have been removed through the ballot box. His opponents not only betrayed a democratic principle. They subverted a “Peace Deal” signed between them and Yanukovich on February 21 in which the latter had agreed to form a national unity government within 10 days that would include opposition representatives; reinstate the 2004 Constitution; relinquish control over Ukraine’s security services; and hold presidential and parliamentary elections by December.
YINGLUCK SHINAWATRA
According to the deal, endorsed by Germany, France and Poland, Yanukovich would remain president until the elections. His co-signatories had no intention of honouring the agreement. Without following procedures, the parliament—with the backing of the military—voted immediately to remove Yanukovich and impeach him. The parliamenta-
ry speaker was elected interim president and after a few days a new regime was installed. One of the first acts of parliament was to proclaim that Ukrainian is the sole official language of the country, thus downgrading the Russian language, the mother tongue of one-fifth of the population. Anti-Russian rhetoric which
March 14-20, 2014
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had become more strident than ever in the course of the protest against the Yanukovich government has reached a crescendo in the wake of the overthrow of the government. The protest gives us an idea of some of the underlying issues that have brought Ukraine to the precipice. There was undoubtedly a great deal of anger in the western part of the country, including Kiev, over the decision of the Russian-backed Yanukovich to reject closer economic ties with the European Union (EU) in favour of financial assistance from Moscow. It explains to some extent the massive demonstrations of the last few months. Police brutality, corruption within the government and cronyism associated with Yanukovich had further incensed the people. But these legitimate concerns tell only one side of the story.
The protest movement had also brought to the fore neo-Nazis and fascists sworn to violence. Armed and organised groups such as the Svoboda and the Right Sector provide muscle power to the protest. They are known to have targeted Jewish synagogues and Eastern Orthodox Christian churches. It is the militias associated with these groups that are in control of street politics in Kiev. Elites in Germany, France, Britain, the United States and within the Nato establishment as a whole are very much aware of the role of neo-Nazi and fascist elements in the protest and in the current Kiev regime. Indeed, certain American and European leaders had instigated the demonstrators and were directly involved in the machinations to bring down Yanukovich. US Assistant Secretary of State for Europe Victoria Nuland had in her infamous telephone conversation
with the US Ambassador to Ukraine admitted that her country had spent US$5 billion promoting anti-Russian groups in Ukraine. For the United States and the Europ ean Union, control over Ukraine serves at least two goals. It expands their military reach through Nato right up to the doorstep of Russia, challenging the latter’s time-honoured relationship with its strategic neighbour. It brings Ukraine within the EU’s economic sphere. Even as it is, almost half of Ukraine’s $35 billion debt is owed to Western banks, which would want the country to adopt austerity measures to remunerate them. It is largely because of these geopolitical and geo-economic challenges that Russian President Vladim ir Putin is flexing his military muscles in Crimea, in the eastern Ukraine region, which not only has a preponderantly Russian-speaking population but
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is also home to Russia’s Black Sea Fleet. Besides, Ukraine is the cradle of Russian civilisation. This is why Putin will go all out to protect Russian interests in Ukraine, but at the same time, there is every reason to believe that he will avoid a military confrontation and try to work out a political solution based upon the Peace Deal. The catastrophe in Ukraine reveals five dimensions in the politics of the ouster of democratically-elected governments: ∫ The determined drive to overthrow the government by dissidents and opponents, which is often uncompromising; ∫ The exploitation of genuine people-related issues and grievances; ∫ The mobilisation of a significant segment of the populace behind these mass concerns; ∫ The resort to violence through militant groups often with a pronounced right-wing orientation; and
The forging of strong linkages between domestic anti-government forces and Western governments and other Western actors, including banks and non-governmental organisations, whose collective aim is to perpetuate Western control and dominance of Western hegemony. Some of these dimensions are also present in Venezuela where there is another concerted attempt to oust a democratically-elected government. Some genuine economic grievances related to the rising cost of living and unemployment are being manipulated and distorted to give the erroneous impression that the Maduro government does not care for the people. President Nicolas Maduro, it is alleged, is suppressing dissent with brutal force. The truth is that a lot of the violence is emanating from groups linked to disgruntled elites who ∫
are opposed to the egalitarian policies pursued by Maduro and his predecessor, Hugo Chavez. They are disseminating fake pictures through social media as part of their false propaganda about the Venezuelan government’s violence against the people —pictures which have now been exposed for what they are by media analysts. Support for this propaganda and for the street protests in Venezuela comes from US foundations such as the National Endowment for Democracy (NED). It has been estimated that in 2012 alone, the NED gave more than $1.3 million to organisations and projects in Venezuela ostensibly to promote “human rights”, “democratic ideas” and “accountability”. The majority of Venezuelans have no doubt at all that this funding is to undermine a government which is not only determined to defend the nation’s
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independence in the face of Washington’s dominance but is also pioneering a movement to strengthen regional cooperation in Latin Amer ica and the Caribbean as a bulwark against the US’ hegemonic agenda. It is because other countries in the region such as Bolivia, Brazil, Argent ina, Nicaragua, Uruguay, and Paraguay know what the US elite is trying to do in Venezuela that they have described “the recent violent acts” in the country “as attempts to destabilise the democratic order”. A third country where a democratically-elected leader is under tremendous pressure from street demonstrators at this juncture is Thailand. Though some of the issues articulated by the demonstrators are legitimate, the fact remains that they do not represent majority sentiment which is still in favour of Prime Minister Yingluck
Shinawatra and her exiled brother, former prime minister, Thaksin Shinawatra. As in Ukraine and Venezuela, violence—albeit on a much lower scale—has seeped into the struggle for power between the incumbent and the protesters. However, foreign involvement is not that obvious to most of us. Both Yingluck and the protest movement are regarded as pro-Western. Nonetheless, there are groups in Washington and London who perceive the current government in Bangkok as more inclined towards China compared to the opposition Democratic Party or the protesters. Is this one of the reasons why a section of the mainstream Western media appears to be supportive of the demonstrations? There are a number of other instances of democratically-elected leaders being overthrown by illegal means.
The most recent—in July 2013 —was the unjust ouster of President Mohamed Morsi of Egypt. In 1973, President Salvador Allende of Chile was killed in a coup engineered by the CIA. Another democratically-elected leader who was manoeuvred out of office and jailed as a result of a British-US plot was Mohammed Mosaddegh of Iran in 1953. It is only too apparent that in most cases the ouster of democratically-elected leaders have been carried out directly or indirectly by the self-proclaimed champions of democracy themselves! It reveals how hypocritical they are. What really matters to the elites in the United States, Britain and other Western countries is not democracy but the perpetuation of their hegemonic power. Hegemony, not democracy, has always been their object of worship. ¬
POLITICS
March 14-20, 2014
A lesson on German atonement Asia can learn from the German model of historic contrition
THE WARSAW GENUFLECTION, AN ACT WHICH SAW THEN GERMAN CHANCELLOR WILLI BRANDT FALL TO HIS KNEES BEFORE A MEMORIAL COMMEMORATING THE HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE BUTCHERED BY THE NAZIS IN WARSAW, THE POLISH CAPITAL, IS SEEN AS THE MOST POWERFUL GERMAN APOLOGY EVER ISSUED TO THE WORLD.
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JONATHAN EYAL The Straits Times Singapore
D
iplomats are paid to dream up clever ways of promoting their country's interests. But occasionally, diplomatic ingenuity can go too far, as a team of Chinese diplomats tasked with planning President Xi Jinping's forthcoming visit to Germany recently discovered. TORU YAMANAKA /AFP
JAPANESE PRIME MINISTER SHINZO ABE’S VISIT TO THE YASUKUNI WAR SHRINE HAS WORSENED THE COUNTRY’S ALREADY TROUBLED TIES WITH ITS NEIGHBOURS.
Beijing offered to set aside a big chunk of President Xi's visit to commemorative events praising the way Germany dealt with its historic responsibility for World War II. Chinese officials assumed that this would please their German hosts, for the manner by which Germany routinely expresses remorse for the murderous deeds of its past is rightly and universally admired. Yet to Beijing's surprise, the Germans flatly turned down most of these proposals, realising that China's real aim was not to engage in a search for historic truths but, rather, to make negative comparisons between the German model of contrition and the alleged absence of historic remorse in Japan. This obscure diplomatic tussle, conducted away from the media's gaze, will soon be forgotten. But the episode should serve as a warning to Chinese officials that their frequent efforts to corner
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March 14-20, 2014
WOOHAE CHO/AFP
SOUTH KOREAN CONSERVATIVE ACTIVISTS SET FIRE TO EFFIGIES OF JAPANESE PRIME MINISTER SHINZO ABE IN A PROTEST AGAINST ABE’S VISITATION OF THE YASUKUNI WAR SHRINE TO MARK THE FIRST ANNIVERSARY OF HIS TAKING OFFICE.
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Japan because of the country's lack of historic atonement are sometimes misguided. Those who think that Germany could ever be the ideal place to criticise other countries for failing to live up to their historic responsibility are guilty of a fundamental misunderstanding of the German experience.
The German experience
Germans see their atonement not as national, but as a deeply personal one: The TV dramas which attract the biggest audiences in the country are those which show how ordinary, humane and otherwise law-abiding Germans during the 1940s either turned a blind eye to the mass murders committed in their midst or even took part in them. German politicians continue to use every opportunity to apologise to other nations for what
their country did. But the most powerful German apology ever issued to the world was accomplished without actually saying a single word: It came in 1970, when then German Chancellor Willi Brandt fell to his knees before a memorial commemorating the hundreds of thousands of people butchered by the Nazis in Warsaw, the Polish capital. The act, now remembered as the "Warsaw Genuflection", could have easily been dismissed as just cheap propaganda, a meaningless photo opportunity. But millions of Europeans were moved to tears by the gesture, precisely because they instinctively understood that it was the product of Germany's internal moral cleansing. Because they view their experience as unique and because they engage in acts of historic atonement not to please outsiders but to deal with their own personal sense of guilt, the Germans have
never regarded their model as exportable. Therefore, the suggestion that Germany should now teach Japan a lesson in historic contrition is seen as both irrelevant and tasteless, akin to asking someone who has succeeded in coming to terms with his own emotional and psychological traumas to go out and preach to other people who may be afflicted. The sooner China and other Asian countries stop browbeating Japan with the German model, the better everyone would be: The German example remains theoretically relevant, but is of no practical application to Japan and its neighbours. Still, there are other aspects of Germany's historic atonement which are worth copying if a historic reconciliation between Japan and past victims is ever to become a reality. The first is the principle that achieving such a historic "closure" requires a con-
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centration on the key bones of historic contention, rather than on every little dispute from a controversial past. In the case of Europe, Germany's neighbours gave up any demands for reparations at the end of World War II; money was paid to individual victims, but not states. Nobody told the new German government how to behave. And, although some European governments gulped, nobody complained when the Germans kept the same tune for their national anthem as during Hitler's days, and reinstated more or less the same historic insignia for the German military, complete with midnight torchlight ceremonies which many of Germany's neighbours used to regard as sinister. Every single one of these episodes could have resulted in a European outcry similar to that over Japan's Yasukuni shrine but they did not, because European
governments understood that the Germans needed to concentrate on dealing with only the biggest and most evocative of their past crimes—the Holocaust. In the case of Japan, however, almost every single historic dispute is now put forward as equal in importance, requiring an urgent response from Tokyo. The Japanese are expected, among others, to offer apologies for the occupation of Korea and contrition for the invasion of China. They are also asked to atone for the Nanjing Massacre and accept the tally of the victims butchered there, as well as address the question of Korea's so-called "comfort women", compensation for forced labourers, a variety of territorial disputes plus issues such as the question of names given to seas around Japan. Even a politically brave and well-meaning future Japanese prime minister would not know where to begin if he wanted to deal with this tangled web of historic demands.
Every nation has a role
Another lesson from Germany worth remembering is that reconciliation works best when it engages everyone. Although Nazi Germany conceived and unleashed the Holocaust, many European governments now admit that, through omission or commission, they also bear some responsibility for mass murder. Historians in France and Britain are also debating whether the indiscriminate carpet-bombing of German cities during the war was a crime which requires a profound apology. All of this has allowed Germany to cope with its horrible past in an easier manner: The burden placed by the heavy hand of history was at least partially shared with its neighbours. And the same could happen with Japan as well. If the Chinese government was prepared to address the painful history of the
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millions of Chinese who perished in political purges and famines over the past six decades, as well as of the hundreds of thousands who may have died unnecessarily during World War II due to poor and politically divided Chinese military leadership, Beijing would have a far more powerful case against Japan. The same applies to South Korea: If President Park Geun-hye was prepared to show even a fraction of the zeal she puts into demanding apologies from Tokyo towards an examination of how many people died during her father's iron rule, her stance on Japan would be even more compelling. The message from Europe is that it's possible to shame nations into coming to terms with their past. And the best way of doing so is by example: Those with a clean conscience have every right to demand nothing less from others.
But the most important lesson from the experience of Germany's example is that, in return for contrition, Germany was offered security, prosperity and full membership in the European community of nations. Germany now leads Europe in every respect and, although many of its neighbours are not particularly fond of this outcome, they accept that it is the result of German hard work and success, rather than some malevolent plot to take over the continent. The reconciliation is therefore complete.
Japan's responsibilities
But what is Japan being offered now in return for its atonement? If a Japanese prime minister were to set fire to the Yasukuni shrine, go to Nanjing to fall on his knees in contrition for the crimes perpetrated against China and then
fly to Seoul to embrace the few Korean wartime sex slaves still alive, would this be the end of the story? Would Japan become a friend of Korea and China? Would the territorial disputes be over? The answers are far too obvious to need spelling out. Historic truths cannot be traded, but they are easier to face if politicians see an advantage. Yet in the case of Japan, no such compensations are in the offing. None of these considerations absolves Japan of its historic responsibilities. But they should serve as a reminder that, just as in the case of Germany, atonement is an exercise best performed in a group, by people and nations which truly share a commitment to exorcise their troubled past in search of a better future. Sadly, that's not the case in today's Asia. ÂŹ
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March 14-20, 2014
AFP PHOTOS
The scourge of bombastic bloggers Virtual antagonism spilling over to the real world has become worrisome in China
March 14-20, 2014
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RAYMOND ZHOU China Daily Beijing
W
ords of intimidation that start as figures of speech can cast a pall over an environment that already has a built-in susceptibility to extreme language. A few days ago, Wang Mudi, a television host in Guangdong province, accompanied his girlfriend to the hospital. The nurse did an extremely sloppy job putting her on a drip. It took her four attempts to properly inject the needle. All the while she was carrying on a casual conversation with a colleague. Wang was so enraged he wrote on his Sina Weibo account, a Chinese micro blog, that "I felt I wanted to hack someone". The next day, a healthcare industry as-
sociation demanded he apologise or his employer should sack him. Wang quickly removed his blog post and later issued a lengthy apology. He has a mild disposition, he said, and he did not name the hospital or the nurse in his original post so nobody was hurt by his outburst. It was "on the spur of the moment that I made the wrong remark", he explained. Most online denizens seemed to agree that what Wang did exacerbated China's troubled doctor-patient relations. A recent spate of incidents where patients or their family members resorted to violence and physically harmed members of medical services has raised alarm about the vulnerability of the profession. Previously, however, the media portrayed medical professionals as greedy merchants who coerced bribes from patients. Some say Wang got away too lightly, especially compared with
Wu Hongfei. Wu, a singer and writer, made news six months ago when she was arrested for posting threatening words on her blog. She said she "wanted to blow up the neighbourhood committee" and a few other government agencies. She was detained for 10 days and fined 500 yuan (US$82), but not prosecuted, possibly because of public pressure. She was said to have violated two clauses of the law, including "claims to use arson, explosion or harmful material to disturb public order" and "fabricating and purposefully distributing false or horror-inducing information". Do I believe that Wang is a potential killer and Wu a potential arsonist? Not for a minute. It's a way to let off some steam. I can totally understand their frustration. We've all been in situations when clenching our teeth was not enough.
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But what they did was wrong. Weibo is a public platform. Shouting "I want to kill him!" in the privacy of your home is not the same as saying it to hundreds of thousands of people. (Wang has 377,500 followers on his Weibo account and Wu 133,100.) What if someone, like the police, takes you verbatim? You may laugh at the police for an unhealthy deficiency in humour, but you would definitely point a finger of blame at them if—and it's a big if—the person who posted it actually went out and did something bad but they had assumed it was just an articulation of anger. The Internet is supposed to be a democratic platform where everyone has an equal opportunity for expression. In reality, it has evolved into a podium for shouting matches. To stand out in a pool of hundreds of millions of voices, many people will nat-
urally resort to extreme means. Even otherwise professional websites often coin absurd headlines to lure readers. And on personal blogs, it is the most radical opinions that usually attract the largest crowds. Rationality is the biggest victim of social media, and moderates of all stripes are essentially drowned out by torrents of venom. A dozen years ago, I was heading a film forum on Netease, then one of the three biggest portal sites in China. I made it a rule that participants could express any opinion on any movie, but had to back up his or her view with reasoning. Simply saying "this movie sucks" or "it's the greatest film ever made" wouldn't do. Actually I had an abhorrence of that kind of vociferation. If you truly believe this is either the best or worst you've ever seen, you won't be short of words for arguments. That bulletin board of mine
became something of an anomaly. It did not have the biggest following, but the most devoted. But for a website, it's the number of participants that matters, not the quality of the discussion. That platform was only about movies. Had it been about politics or sports, you can rest assured that cries of killing would have been the norm, more or less. Some worry about online antagonism spilling over to the physical world. There have been cases of online celebrities of different political factions who arranged to duel it out at the southern gate of Beijing's Chaoyang Park. For the most part, the combustible kind tends to appear docile and soft-spoken in real life. They may not even be able to make a coherent argument in a debate with their opponents, let alone pick a fistfight. This duality is often seen as a reason, rather than a pretext,
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for their online stridency. They are the two sides of the same coin. Because they are usually restrained in manner and speech in the physical world, by personality or by necessity, they have to find an outlet for their pentup emotions, and what's a better conduit than an anonymous social site? You can put on the air of a braggadocio and play the role of superhero in vanquishing your foes in whatever manner you can dream up. Then there is the penchant for hyperbole, which goes much further than the Internet. Chinese is a flowery language with strong literary roots. Being plainspoken is rarely embraced as a virtue, especially for the educated. There were descriptions of "a million-strong army" in history books when the total population of that particular jurisdiction
had less than 1 million residents. Confucius was so tall that he would have towered over Yao Ming — if you take the numbers literally. In the early 1990s when I was in the United States, I read a news story about a Chinese student leaving a voice message on a classmate's phone, saying he would have him "die in 10,000 pieces and with no place for burial". Naturally it conjured up a gruesome picture of attempted murder. Had you read this in Chinese, it simply means "You, go die!" If he had said, "I wouldn't shed a tear if you vanished from the face of the Earth", he would not have got into legal trouble. (He was promptly arrested and charged with attempted murder.) Again, that was an example of someone blowing a fuse in
a most inappropriate way. The language made it seem worse than it actually was. Sure, there are stories of classmates killing each other, as in the recent case of a Fudan University student poisoning his roommate. But I doubt that guy threw a fit before he put poison into the water cooler. For one thing, his fury would have been a warning. People who kill usually do it quietly. The bombastic style of some parts of the Chinese language is a heritage that has been passed down to us through political slogans and costume dramas. Before we learned the art of the understatement and deadpan humour, which have also found a few exponents online, the Internet had become a breeding ground for floridity. Only this time it was for blustery rages that are considered a menace to the public. ÂŹ
FOOD
March 14-20, 2014
Islamabad
T
his is a story about food that is close to my heart, for the pulao is a dish from my childhood. It is no ordinary dish—some might even call it legendary —for indeed, the pulao has made its way around the world, and through time. The aroma of fennel, coriander seeds and onions cooking in mutton stock takes me back to the years when the world was a place of wonder, when I thought my parents would live forever and that all over the world families spent weekend lunches laughing, talking and learning lessons over a table of pulao, kebabs and chukandar raita (beetroot yoghurt).
PHOTOS BY FAWAD AHMED
More than just a dish
BISMA TIRMIZI Dawn
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Pulao has made a place for itself in most cuisines around the world. Conquerors and nomadic shepherds of the ancient times were instrumental in bringing this dish to the corners of the earth. History records that the dish has travelled from the kitchens of humble Persian shepherds to the grand courts of the Khalifahs. According to legend, the original pulao was made of rice soaked in salt water for several hours until it shimmered like crystals. The soft, plumped rice would then be added to boiling meat. Centuries later, French traveller and anthropologist Tavenier observed that the best rice for making pulao was cultivated in southwest Agra. A perfect pulao dish is elegantly aromatic, with its aroma being subtle, rather than harsh. Cultures around the world have
since adapted it to suit their taste buds; the Spanish added seafood and called it paella, the Turks dubbed their version pilav, Italians called theirs risotto, while Mughal kitchens of old threw in their fiery spices and introduced the biryani. The Lucknows on the other hand, maintained the original sophisticated subtle fragrance of the pulao. Legend has it that ancient Awadhi cooks would feed their fowls saffron and musk, so that when they were cooked in the pot, their fragrance would permeate haveli to haveli (mansion to mansion). Today, the surviving pulao recipes passed down the generations has maintained the usage of few spices, namely only the four whole garam masalas (black cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, black peppercorns), ghee (clar-
ified butter) coriander seeds, cumin, fennel seeds, onions, ginger and garlic. The spices are only accessory to bring out the “real flavour� of the pulao which is in the meat stock, which is prepared through slow-boiling the meat and later straining the broth through muslin cloth. The rice which has been soaked in salt is later added to the broth, and left to cook in a covered pot to perfection. As I mentioned earlier, pulao holds a dear place in my heart. I remember it being cooked by the women in our house, we children would line up for this favourite dish while it was served onto our plates straight from the pot. My cousins and I liked it so much that we would sometimes argue over who got the best piece of meat! Nevertheless, there was always enough to go around.
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Pulao Ingredients (Serves 4 to 6) 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 lbs mutton, small pieces (preferably goat leg or shoulder meat) ∫
1 1/2 tbsp fennel seeds ∫ 3 tbsp coriander seeds ∫ 2 large onions ∫ 1 tsp garam masala powder ∫ 1 tsp cumin ∫ 1/4 to 1/2 cup oil ∫ 8 1/2 mugs water ∫ 2 mugs rice ∫ Salt to taste ∫ 1 1/2 tbsp yoghurt ∫ 1 tsp fresh ginger (chopped) ∫ 1 tsp fresh garlic (chopped) ∫
Method Slice one large onion in four quarters, add mutton, coriander seeds, fennel seeds, salt to taste
and water, bringing to boil and reducing heat to medium until mutton is cooked and stock (yakhni) is reduced to half its original quantity (4 1/4 mugs).
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Remove mutton pieces from stock (yakhni), and strain stock thoroughly through sieve, discarding the drained fennel, coriander and onions. In a large pot, pour oil and brown thinly sliced onions. Once the onions are golden brown add mutton, ginger, garlic, garam masala powder, cumin, salt to taste and yoghurt, stir on high heat for a few minutes. Now add mutton stock, and bring to boil on a high heat, adding pre-washed rice. Maintain high heat until the rice fluffs and the stock is just a thin layer on the top. Taper heat to low and seal the pot, initiating the dum (steam cooking) method. Let it sit on a low heat for 30 minutes. And, your perfect pulao is ready.
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Beetroot Raita Take two beets, discarding the stems. Boil until cooked. Remove from water, peel and slice julienne. In a bowl whisk 2 to 2 1/2 mugs yoghurt, add 1/2 cup washed and chopped onions, salt, a pinch of black pepper powder, 2 chopped green chillies, add the beets, sprinkle with chopped mint and cilantro and serve with pulao.
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SOCIETY FOOD JNTO
Another world of washoku There is another world of Japanese food that is reasonably priced and enjoyed by ordinary Japanese every day
MAKUNOUCHI-BENTO JAPANESE TRADIIONAL LUNCH BOX
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The Japan News Tokyo
W
ashoku, traditional Japanese cuisine, has been registered on Unesco's Intangible Cultural Heritage List. The registration is believed to be in recognition that Japanese dishes, including sushi, tempura and sukiyaki, are being served at restaurants throughout the world. However, popular Japanese dishes in foreign countries are generally limited to dishes served at Japanese restaurants. On the other hand, there is another world of Japanese food that is reasonably priced and enjoyed by ordinary Japanese every day.
Bento
Japanese gardens often epitomise the natural landscape—mountains, rivers, lakes—in a small space. Similarly, a bento is a Japanese meal served in a small package containing rice, grilled dishes and pickles, items usually served at home. People prepare bento at home or buy one made at a bento shop or caterer. Either way, a boxed meal will give you a taste of the diverse ingredients of Japanese food culture whether you are on a trip, at your workplace or elsewhere. There are several places where tourists visiting Japan can buy delicious bento with relative ease. Although you can buy a bento at a convenience store near your hotel, we recommend you buy one at a traditional bento stall. Such stalls can be found at major railway stations. Whether travelling by train for leisure or on business, Japanese often buy bento either at the station they leave from or at a station along the way during long
journeys. Bento made available at railway stations are called ekiben. “Eki” means station and “ben” is an abbreviation for bento. Digging into a bento while enjoying the changing scenery through a train window is one of the joys of travel. Ekibenya Matsuri ekiben shop opened one and a half years ago in JR Tokyo Station, a major starting point for many people heading to such cities as Kyoto in the west or Sendai in the north. The shop deals in 150 different kinds of bento. Most of the boxed meals sold there have been delivered from regional bento makers. The shop also features a specially built kitchenette where regionally popular bento are freshly cooked before being sold. Ekiben is also characterised by the use of regional specialties. For instance, Hokkaido bento feature such seafood as squid or crab, while gyutan (ox tongue) is common in Sendai bento and beef can often be found in bento from Yamagata Pre-
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fecture. Travellers can enjoy regional flavours by eating the specialties contained within a small bento box. At urban shopping districts and along major roads, there are bento shops catering to customers’ requests. As the rice and accompanying dishes are served hot, these bento are called hokaben (piping hot bento), and are favoured by such people as businesspeople and homemakers. Almost every bento shop carries makunouchi bento (literally, intermission bento). There are various theories about the derivation of this name. One theory has it that in the past, theatregoers would eat boxed meals during intermission. Nonetheless, the standard style of the makunouchi bento has not changed much from bygone days and remains quite popular. Besides rice, it usually contains a variety of small food portions, sometimes 10 to 15 different items, such as Japanese-style omelette and boiled dishes, all set out in an orderly fashion.
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Teishoku The basic arrangement of a traditional Japanese meal, known as “ichiju-sansai”, consists of miso soup, three dishes and rice, and those elements are handily served on a single tray as a set meal known as “teishoku”. Teishoku meals are prepared and served quickly and easily at relatively low prices at specialised eateries. To many, teishoku are like a little taste of “mom’s home cooking”. Founded in 1958 with its first shop in Ikebukuro, Tokyo, Ootoya Co. is one of Japan's largest teishoku chains, with more than 300 shops all across the country and even branches abroad. According to Toru Nakamura, Ootoya’s marketing manager, teishoku meals are a “substitute for home cooking like what a mother might lovingly prepare for her family”.
Nakamura said teishoku “offers diners a variety of nutrients, balancing carbohydrates, protein and fat, while keeping calories relatively low”. A typical teishoku meal at Ootoya adopts the “ichiju-sansai” format, comprising a main dish, side dishes and Japanese-style pickled vegetables, accompanied by the ever-present bowl of rice and miso soup. Even the most expensive of the restaurant’s teishoku meals are priced no more than 900 yen (US$9). Customers can request a large portion of rice at no extra charge, and those with a yearning for healthier food can also have their white rice replaced with “gokokumai”, a mixture of rice and other grains at no additional cost. Tourists and locals alike can find time-honoured teishoku eatery Kanda Shokudo in Akihabara. At first glance, the eatery is certainly unlikely to impress, but
Kanda Shokudo, with a history of more than 50 years in a floor space of about 50 square metres is thronged almost every day with close to 300 customers. Shoji Asanuma, second-generation proprietor of Kanda Shokudo, explained, “Since early in the Showa era (1926-1989) when the country’s largest vegetable and fruit wholesale market used to be located nearby, we have been serving our tasty, voluminous meals to working men and women quickly and at reasonable prices.” The kitchen staff get cooking as soon as they receive an order for a ginger pork meal, one of the restaurant’s signature teishoku meals and the most popular with customers. Just a few minutes later, a dish of ginger pork accompanied with plenty of shredded cabbage is delivered to the table along with a tofu and seaweed miso soup, plus a bowl of steaming rice. Teishoku meal prices range from a little more than 500
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DAISUKE YATSUI /JNTO
yen to just under 800 yen. Teishoku specialty restaurants aren’t the only place to find teishoku meals. Japanese-style pubs and cookshops frequently incorporate them into lunch menus. A wide range of flavours from broiled fish to fried croquettes or deepfried breaded pork can be had served alongside sauteed vegetables and meat. Many restaurants gladly ladle out second helpings of rice and miso soup free of charge. If you get the chance, be sure to sample a variety of teishoku meals, the ambrosia of common people in Japan.
YAMAGATA LOCAL CUISINE
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TOURISM COMMISSION OF HAKUBA VILLAGE/©JNTO
NAGANO CUISINE
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Women tend to like dessert, both in the East and the West. In Japan, women who love sweets fill most of the seats at establishments called kanmidokoro (place to have something sweet), sanctuaries for women that men hesitate to enter. Kanmidokoro are tea houses that offer desserts unique SWEETS to Japan. The main ingredient in many of the desserts is “an”, which are simmered and mashed adzuki beans kneaded with a large amount of sugar until they become pastelike. Shiruko is a thin an soup with small pieces of toasted mochi, or chewy rice cakes. Anmitsu is small cubes of cooked kanten agar and sliced fruits with an on top. In traditional Japanese cuisine, which did not use animal fat such as butter or fresh cream, an was the most popular ingredient for sweet desserts. In the Edo period (1603-
near Akihabara, Tokyo, which was established in 1930. It offers several kinds of shiruko with different methods of preparing the an, all priced at about 750 yen. Among men, kanmidokoro tends to be thought the place frequented predominantly by women. Why? According to Kikuo Hotta, 74, the second-generation owner of Takemura, many kanmidokoro used to be located near bustling areas with beautifully dressed geisha. “Kanmidokoro may still conjure up an image of a place frequented by classy women,” Hotta said. Indeed, this tea house’s atmosphere suits the kimono-clad madams stopping for sweets after going to the theatre. Kanmidokoro, however, are too attractive for only women to visit them. Good and old Japan certainly await you if you slide open the lattice door of Kanmidokoro. KANAZAWA CITY/© JNTO
Kanmidokoro
1867), kanmidokoro became a staple of ordinary people’s lives. “When bread was introduced by the West, Japanese invented anpan, or an-filled bread,” said Asako Kishi, 90, a cooking journalist. “An matches Japanese tastes perfectly.” As she pointed out, the main items on the menu at kanmidokoro are soul food to Japanese. Probably because kanmidokoro date back centuries, many famous establishments operate in old wooden houses. One is Takemura
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©ISHIKAWA PREFECTURE TOURIST ASSOCIATION AND KANAZAWA CONVENTION BUREAU/© JNTO
SWEETS
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SWEETS
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Ramen addition, there are various toppings for ramen, for example, a whole crab, fried chicken and a heap of vegetables. Sapporo ramen, originating in Hokkaido, attracts many people with its miso-flavoured soup seasoned with butter and other ingredients, while Hakata ramen from Fukuoka Prefecture is famous for its white pork bone broth and red ginger. There also are regional varieties of ramen, with every prefecture having their local ones. The original dish of ramen came from China to Japan. However, noodles and soups have been transforming over the years, and it seems to have become one of Japan’s most popular dishes after the 1950s. In the fast-paced ramen industry, new ramen shops open every day, with new tastes and flavours produced—very hot
©KAGOSHIMA PREFECTURAL TOURIST FEDERATION/©JNTO
Ramen noodle-in-soup in a bowl, one of Japan’s most popular dishes, has its origin in China and flourished in Japan. Having a variety of tastes and flavours, ramen keeps evolving every day at bustling ramen shops. Ramen shops are the place where your “spirit of inquiry” is tested. In his travelblog “Sushi & beyond”, British food journalist Michael Booth writes, “Essentially, ramen is a dish of yellow, chewy, curly Chinese wheat noodles served in a deep bowl of soup with toppings—usually including a slice of roast pork.” However, the description just refers to the essential definition of ramen. Concerning soup, there are at least three kinds of flavours— soy sauce, miso and salt. In
ramen, fish-based broth and abura-soba (oil noodle) which is served without soup but with flavoured cooking oil and thickened ingredients.
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HIROSHIMA RAMEN
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MISO RAMEN
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SHIO RAMEN
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SHOYU RAMEN
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When it’s time to relax after a day’s hard work, Japanese often drop into an izakaya—a Japanese-style pub—for a drink. Izakayas usually offer a good selection of food and drinks, with a bit more variety than a typical Western-style pub. These pubs offer a place for people to chat with close friends and colleagues over inexpensive drinks before heading home. For office workers, therefore, izakayas are a pit stop between the workplace and home. Japanese salaried workers sometimes feel a need for a space away from work and from home, where they can loosen up—a place to let their minds relax, or to reflect without pressure from their bosses or families, a
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Izakaya
IZAKAYA
sort of “third space” to get together with friends. But izakaya can be a place where supervisors offer words of encouragement to their employees or provide some guidance. At other times, employees might privately share a
few sharp words about their bosses after work is over. It’s a different kind of space that awaits behind the sliding doors typical of Japanese pubs. The classic izakaya has a rope curtain in the doorway and red
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GRILLED EEL IS A FAVOURITE PUB FOOD.
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IZAKAYA
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IZAKAYA
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YAKITORI
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lantern hanging out front. But at Santaro, an izakaya in Ikebukuro in Tokyo, the lantern is white and painted with the characters for oden, a preparation of various foods slowly stewed in broth. Because izakaya serve so many different foods, it’s not at all unusual for Japanese dishes and Western, Chinese and Korean dishes to share space on the menu—or maybe dishes fusing styles. While Santaro focuses on Japanese dishes like sashimi and broiled fish, customers can also order Indian-style curry. “Foie gras pickled in sweet Kyoto-style white miso,” a personal creation of Santaro’s proprietor, Eiichiro Hayashi, is perhaps the pinnacle of local fusion flavours at Santaro. Izakaya are ready to serve drinks aplenty as well, ranging from sake and shochu to beer and whisky. Santaro in particu-
lar keeps 120 different types of sake. Among them, Hayashi recommends newer brands from younger brewers produced outside Japan’s urban centres. With its sweetness, refined flavour and fruity aroma, sake is a smooth drink that is enjoyed not only by Japanese, but by foreigners, too. According to professor Kenji Hashimoto of Waseda University, who is knowledgeable about izakaya, a growing number of women are visiting the pubs. The efforts of izakaya to improve the quality and flavour of their food and drinks might explain this change. “Where groups of inebriated middle-aged men used to fill izakaya seats, groups of women are now a common sight,” Hashimoto said. “At more upscale izakaya offering a good selection of fine sake, I sometimes see women with the bearing of managers quietly enjoying a cup of sake.”
There are many inexpensive izakaya chains, where guests can eat and drink for under 2,000 yen each, but at a place like Santaro, which serves an ample variety of sake, that figure might be closer to 5,000 yen. Even though Santaro doesn’t aim for the lowest prices, it is usually crowded with customers enjoying a modest indulgence. Michael Molasky, an American professor at Waseda University, wrote in his book “Nomeba Miyako” (“A Man’s Pub is His Castle”) that he learned Japanese language and culture in izakayas. Even the nonconfrontational Japanese manage to speak their minds, growing sociable after a couple of glasses of the national beverage. Foreigners in Japan, can often find themselves in touch with the spirit of Japan at their favourite izakaya. ¬
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Asia’s finest What's great and good in Asia’s restaurant industry
APPLE PEACH TART FROM 2AM: DESSERTBAR.
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JULIAN TEOH The Star Petaling Jaya
T
he great and the good of Asia’s restaurant industry (and me) gathered at the Capella Singapore on February 24 for the announcement of the S. Pellegrino and Acqua Panna Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2014. You may have already seen the list since its release, so I thought I would come up with my own list of the biggest winners and losers on the night, as well as coming up with a couple of predictions for the near future.
Losers
Malaysia—Two years running,
not a single entry on the list. I thought the embarrassment of last year’s result might galvanise the more patriotic Malaysian members
of the voting jury to support the local candidates, but I was clearly wrong. I know this dead horse is well and truly flogged to mince, but it seems our restaurants are still doing what they do and our dining public is still swallowing it hook, line and sinker. A few local restaurateurs went on the record after last year’s announcement as saying they couldn’t get good ingredients at the prices diners were willing to pay. Well, Cilantro’s degustation menu now costs US$120 nett, and there is a place in Ipoh (yes, Ipoh!) that serves a degustation dinner for over $100 nett. There are quite a few places on the 2014 list where you can eat an excellent dinner for under $100, such as Singapore's Imperial Treasure Super Peking Duck at No. 40. Imperial Treasure has to pay extortionate Orchard Road rents at the upmarket Paragon mall, so is cost really the issue here?
Last year, I wrote about Malaysia’s failure to get on the 2013 list, which, like much of writing that passes for political rhetoric in Malaysia these days, was designed to inflame public opinion. In response, I received a comment on my blog from a young chef named Darren Chin, who is currently building his own restaurant at Empire Damansara in Petaling Jaya. Until recently, Darren was a student at Le Cordon Bleu Paris and, in between stints at some top restaurants in Europe, created the Delifrance “World’s Best Sandwich 2013”. Without mincing words, he said he is aiming to make Asia’s 50 Best in the future, and asked me “to have faith and belief that one day a restaurant representing Malaysia will be listed soon”. Now I don’t know Darren and I have not tasted his food. I am therefore not suggesting that he is Malaysia’s Great White Hope. But he certainly sounds like a capable young man, and I like that he is aiming
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THE STAR
THE STAR
DAVID THOMPSON'S NAHM IN BANGKOK IS ASIA'S BEST RESTAURANT.
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PHOTO FROM FACEBOOK.COM/2AMDESSERTBAR
OWNER OF SINGAPORE’S 2AM:DESSERTBAR, JANICE WONG, WAS NAMED ASIA’S BEST PASTRY CHEF.
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PHOTO FROM FACEBOOK.COM/2AMDESSERTBAR
MENTAIKO BURGER, 63DEG EGG, KAFFIR LIME, SMOKED SALMON, PURPLE POTATO FROM 2AM:DESSERTBAR.
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FACEBOOK.COM/PAGES/GAGGAN
FISH RAWA MASALA BY GANGGAN BANGKOK.
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PHOTO FROM FACEBOOK.COM/PAGES/GAGGAN
CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA BY GAGGAN BANGKOK
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PHOTO FROM FACEBOOK.COM/PAGES/GAGGAN
very high and is prepared to run the risk of falling flat on his face. OK, he has put a target on his back by announcing his ambitions so publicly, but no risk, no reward, right? Frankly, if more of our young people thought like Darren, it might be to the good of this country (and its F&B industry).
Pastry Chefs—For the second
year running, Janice Wong of Singapore’s 2am:dessertbar was named Asia’s Best Pastry Chef. Janice is, by all accounts, a very nice and talented person, but I can’t help wondering if other top pastry talent is being obscured by the fact that a lot of them work in large hotels or other people’s restaurants. In those models, the pastry chef generally has to toe the line, creating everyday favourites for the buffet or melding his/her creations to the restaurant’s model and branding. There is, therefore, little scope for them to showcase what they are truly capable of. Further, hotel
GAGGAN BANGKOK OWNER GAGGAN ANAND.
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chefs often do not have much chance to establish their identity as individuals with the voters and dining public. Having said all this, I don’t want to take anything away from Janice’s achievements. She is one of the few who has carte blanche to do what she wants to do. Instead of knocking out macarons and mille-crêpes by the bucketload (which I am sure she would do very well), she has taken the opportunity to wander down the road less travelled by creating unique, texturally and visually appealing sweets in the postmodern mould. More power to her, I say.
Casino restaurants—
I’m not sure what Monsieur Robuchon thought when he read the 2013 list and saw that his two casual Ateliers in Hong Kong and Singapore had surpassed his Asian flagship Robuchon au Dome in Macau (probably, “What a stupid list this is!”, but let that pass). Well, Au Dome was down two
spots this year, and L’Atelier Singapore fell off the list from a very respectable No. 24 last year. Osteria Mozza at Marina Bay Sands also disappeared from the list, having bolted in at No. 35 in 2013. With the notable exception of Waku Ghin, Singapore casinos, err, I mean Integrated Resorts, no longer have any representation on the list. Having boasted an original high-powered, high-cost line-up that included Santi Santamaria, Mario Batali, Kunio Tokuoka, Daniel Boulud, Wolfgang Puck, Justin Quek, Guy Savoy and Robuchon (who also has a formal Joël Robuchon Restaurant at Resorts World Sentosa), that has to be a disappointing result.
Australia—Admittedly, tapping
the cellphone of Indonesian President Yudhoyono's wife during her official visit to Australia didn’t exactly scream “Asian solidarity”, but I would love to see the Land Down Under included in the catchment
area for Asia’s 50 Best 2015. Australia already has regular representation in the World’s Best 50 list through Attica (No. 21) and Quay (No. 48), and it would be intriguing to see how they stack up against Asia’s best. Come on, football has taken the plunge by allowing Australia into the Asian Football Confederation; do the Asia’s 50 Best organisers have the “balls” to do the same?
Winners
Taiwan—Along with the Vatican
and 21 developing nations in Africa, Oceania, South America and the Caribbean, the organisers of Asia’s 50 Best have decided to recognise Taiwan as a nation in its own right. This move will undoubtedly have diplomatic repercussions for the Asia’s 50 Best organisers. I attended a Chef Forum the day before the announcement, as part of the build-up to the big event. While we are being contrarian, I must admit that I really, really en-
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Bangkok—Yes, Bangkok, not
Thailand. Bangkok has six restaurants in Asia’s 50 Best, and two of the top three. Given the troubles that have racked the City of Angels in the last few months, this will be little consolation to Bangkok’s patient citizens, but it is amazing recognition for Bangkok’s bustling food scene, as well as the scholarship of Nahm (No. 1) owner David Thompson and the avant-garde genius of Gaggan Anand (No. 3). Speaking of Thailand, keep an eye out this year for Aziamendi, the Phuket outpost of three-Michelin-starred Basque chef Eneko Axta. Aziamendi soft-opened only
FACEBOOK.COM PAGES/GAGGAN
joyed bo.lan (No. 28) chef/owner Bo Songvisava’s public denigration of environmentally-insensitive people drinking bottled water and racking up foodmiles. That message was clearly NOT brought to you by S. Pellegrino and Acqua Panna.
in December 2013, after the polls closed for the 2014 list. With the backing of dynamic philanthropist Mark Weingard and his super-luxurious Iniala Beach House (which hosts the restaurant), one thing the Aziamendi crew are certainly not lacking in is ambition. And you know what, they might actually achieve them before too long.
André Chiang—The chiselled,
towering Chiang may have seen his eponymous restaurant slide down a spot to No. 6 this year, but he has cemented his place as Singapore’s best restaurant, fending off long-established veterans Iggy’s and Les Amis. He also won the coveted Chef ’s Choice award, which is voted for by a panel of elite chefs in Asia. That said, Waku Ghin (which in my humble opinion is far, far better than the original Tetsuya’s in Sydney) is nipping at his heels at No. 7, up four spots from 2013. André will need to stay on his game to avoid a changing of the guard next year.
TRUFFLE RAVIOLI FROM GAGGAN BANGKOK.
Asia—There is a heck of a lot of
good food out there, whether on or off the list. Asia’s 50 Best obviously highlights only a small cross-section of what is available, but it is helping to shine the world’s gastronomic spotlight on Asia and Asia’s cuisines. That can only be a good thing. * Julian Teoh is a Malaysian freelance food and wine writer. He is a member of the voting panel for Asia’s/World’s 50 Best Restaurants. ¬
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Slow boats to China
Ferries offer cheap cruises from Korea to 12 Chinese destinations MATTHEW C. CRAWFORD The Korea Herald Seoul
S HEBEI
ome travellers enjoy the leisurely pace of train journeys, while some are hooked on the efficiency of air travel. Others fancy the freedom of road trips, or the challenge of long-distance cycling. Korea can satisfy all these types, but the happiest
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of all might be the island hoppers and the seafarers. Apart from the dozens of local ferries, there are sailings to Vladivostok, Russia, from Donghae, Gangwon Province, and to Fukuoka, Osaka, Shimonoseki and Tsushima Island in Japan, departing from Busan. But the bulk of the international sea journeys are to China, a country with a monstrously long, heavily populated coastline. In all, 12 companies in South Korea shuttle freight and passengers to 12 ports throughout three Chinese provinces. The boats leave from the international terminals at Incheon and at Pyeongtaek, South Chungcheong Province, and trips are as short as 12 hours— meaning that after boarding, eating dinner and doing some bedtime reading, you’re in China at the break of day—or as
long as 24 hours, with more time to enjoy the cruise. Generally, the ferries are no cheaper than the flights, so a boat ride will probably be more about the experience than the savings. For passage to Dalian, a one-way ticket costs 115,000 won ($107) if you’re willing to share a room with up to 63 other people, while the cheapest flight goes for 220,000 won round-trip. Some of the Chinese port cities in question can be reached only by ferry, though, with no international airports nearby. Most of the passengers are Korean, Chinese or KoreanChinese, and the companies cater more to the needs of business than tourism. For those who like to go local and enjoy the journey just as much as the destination, this is a strong draw. Depending on the boat,
the cheapest ticket may entail sleeping in a common space stretching from port to starboard, with card games going on late into the night, or else on a bunk in a large compartment. Those willing to pay more can secure greater privacy with an unshared berth, though bathrooms are usually communal. Food needs are covered by buffet restaurants, usually serving Korean and Chinese fare during certain time slots, and by on-board convenience stores that many depend on for instant noodles and canned beer. Be sure to get a Chinese visa before arriving at the terminal (two to three hours before the sailing), and note that English service may be scant. Rough waters are not usually a problem, though snoring can sometimes overtake the noise of the engine.
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LIAONING PROVINCE
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March 14-20, 2014
Liaoning province From Incheon, Dandong Hangun sails to Dandong a town on the border with North Korea. While the city smells like Birmingham circa 1790, it offers fascinating North Korean dining experiences, complete with karaoke performances by the servers and views of the "hermit kingdom" across the Amnok River (the Yalu to the Chinese). Of interest to DPRK watchers, the country’s west coast islands can be viewed from the deck of the ferry before nightfall. Also from Incheon, Daein Ferry makes voyages to Dalian, a former Russian concession at the tip of the Liaodong Peninsula. Called Port Arthur at the time, the Japanese laid
siege to this erstwhile Russian port for five desperate months during the Russo-Japanese War. Dalian is worth visiting in the summer for its beaches. Last of all for Liaoning, Beomyeong Ferry sails to the former British treaty port of Yingkou, northwest of Dalian. All of these coastal cities are good stepping stones to the great interior. From Dalian, for example, it’s a short train ride to Beijing (six hours), Changchun (four hours) or Shenyang (three hours). Getting to Baekdusan Mountain (Changbaishan in China) is a more serious venture, as it takes 20 hours just to reach the gateway city of Beihe.
March 14-20, 2014
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SHANDONG PROVINCE
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March 14-20, 2014
Shandong province Probably the most popular destination for travellers who brave Korea’s international ferries is the city of Qingdao in Shangdong province. Widong Haeun in Incheon makes the 13-hour passage to the former German concession where kegs of Tsingtao beer, widely considered the best in China, fill up takeaway plastic bags at stores on every block. Like Dalian, Qingdao has a number of beaches reachable by city bus, though mysterious algal blooms have put a damper on the swimming in recent summers. North of Qingdao on the Shandong Peninsula, Weihei is also serviced by Widong Haeun as well as by Pyeongtaek Jiaodong Ferry, while Yantai—which has a historical park of embassies from the days
when it was called Chefoo—can be reached with Hanjung Ferry from Incheon. While going for a dip at Yantai’s No. 1 Bathing Beach is like swimming in a sunken landfill, locals are keen to recommend beaches outside of the city centre. A more obscure Shangdong destination would be Shidao, which can be reached from Incheon with Hwadong Haeun. Rizhao, serviced by Rizhao Ferry, and Rongcheng, with Dalong Ferry, can both be reached from the Pyeongtaek Port International Ferry Terminal. Once on dry land, travellers to the province can ride the rails to Qufu to pay homage at the tomb of Confucius, or to Mount Tai, one of China’s Five Great Mountains and a pilgrimage site for the past 2,000 years.
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March 14-20, 2014
Tianjin city and Hebei province For those bound for Beijing, the most direct course is between the Liaodong and Shandong peninsulas, into the Bohai Sea and straight to the port of Tianjin. Jincheon Ferry Incheon plies this route to the Chinese counterpart of Incheon, where industry is king and the air is none too clear, but colonial-era European architecture makes for eye-watering scenery.
Northeast of Tianjin, the port of Qinhuangdao can also be reached from Incheon, with Jinin Haeun. While Tianjin and Beijing are autonomous cities, Qinhuangdo belongs to Hebei province. Not just an average Chinese city of 3 million souls, it contains the Beidaihe Beach Resort, where Chairman Mao spent many a summer.
March 14-20, 2014
JIANGSU PROVINCE
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March 14-20, 2014
Jiangsu province The last of the options is Lianyungang, just south of the Shandong border in Jiangsu province. Yeonunhang Ferry sails here from both Korean ports, though leaving from Pyeongtaek shaves an hour off the journey, making it a 23-hour cruise. One might opt for Lianyungang if the final destination is Shanghai, an 11-hour train ride south. As far as distances go in China, Lianyungang is also relatively close to the former capital of Nanjing and the garden city of Suzhou, which got good reviews from Marco Polo. ÂŹ
Check out travel firms offering Korea-China ferry service at asiaenglish. visitkorea.or.kr
March 14-20, 2014
ÂŹ Kerala, India Attuvela Mahotsavam
While Kerala's temple festivals are often focused on elephants, the Attuvela Mahotsavam is a fascinating water carnival which sees a beautiful procession of canoes illuminated by candles, carrying huge temple replicas. These are accompanied by smaller, colourfully decorated canoes and traditional music.
When: April 1 Where: Elankavu Sree Bhagavathy Temple, Vadayar, Kottayam District
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March 14-20, 2014
¬ Kashmir, India Tulip Festival
Spring is when India's Kashmir region is at its most picturesque—when the tulips are in full bloom. During this time, tulip meadows such as in Srinagar, turns into a breathtaking landscape. The festival is also commemorated with cultural programmes and folk songs.
When: First two weeks of April Where: Throughout Kashmir
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March 14-20, 2014
ÂŹ Kyoto, Japan Hanami (Cherry-blossom viewing)
From the end of March through the beginning of April, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom throughout Kyoto, people gather in parks for the traditional Hanami or "cherry-blossom viewing".
When: End of March to beginning of April Where: Throughout Kyoto Info: http://www.kyoto.travel/2009/11/ hanami-cherry-blossom-viewing.html
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March 14-20, 2014
ÂŹ Kyoto, Japan Miyako Odori (Spring Geiko/Geisha Dance Performance) The Geiko (Geisha) and Maiko (apprentice Geisha) still carry out their traditional annual dances during the height of the cherry blossom season throughout the month of April. The most popular of these dances are the Miyako Odori "Cherry Blossom Dances" and "Dances of the Old Capital". Spectators flock from all across Japan and the world to attend the event. Gion District Geisha prefer to be called Geiko, which means a woman skilled in dance and music.
When: April 1 to 30 Where: Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theater Info: http://www.miyako-odori.jp/
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March 14-20, 2014
¬ Malaysia Food Tour Malaysia One of the most important—if not THE most important—thing to do when visiting Malaysia is to do what Malaysians love doing the most: eat. Food Tour Malaysia provides packaged foodie trips around the country or in particular towns for visitors who want to experience true Malaysian culinary delights.
Info: www.foodtourmalaysia.com
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March 14-20, 2014
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March 14-20, 2014
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ASIAN CITY GUIDE Asia News Network
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A guide to leading cities in Asia
THIS WEEK IN
BEIJING BANGKOK MANILA HONG KOKG SEOUL TOKYO SAPPORO TAIPEI SHANGHAI
Seoul
HIGHLIGHTS
What's on
Shopping
Eateries
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
What’s on
¬ Myths and Legends
¬ Hikes with Seoul Intl Hikers Club Where: Meet at Gupabal Station (line 3, station 320) outside Exit 1 What: The Seoul International Hikers Club will hike along Bukhansan Dulllegil starting from Gupabal station. The group will meet at the station and move
to the entrance of Ipgok village by bus and walk along the Dullegil, a well-known trail taking about two hours. Participation is free while each person pays for his/her own meal.
Louvre Exhibition
Where: Seoul Arts Center, Hangaram Art Museum, Seocho-dong, Seoul What: The exhibition features 110 paintings, sculptures and artefacts on ancient Greek myths, selected by three experts from the Louvre Museum in Paris. It includes a two-metre 18th century statue of Artemis with a deer at the entrance.
Tickets: Adults 12,000 won; Students 10,000 won; Elementary Students 8,000 won
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
SEOUL
What’s on
¬ GaruyaGaruya
Playing with Flour
Where: COEX Artium, Gangnam What: This children’s exhibition allows attendees to play with flour. The exhibition includes baking bread, a flour massage, playing flour instruments, making dough, drawing pictures using flour and more. Cost: 17,000-23,000 won
¬ Angel House Volunteering Where: Meet inside Yeonsinnae Subway Station by the benches near Exit 3 (line 3, stop 321 or line 6 stop 614) What: Angel House Volunteers get together the first and/or third Saturday of each month to go to Angel House, which houses about 50 disabled residents. The volunteers clean the facilities, do the laundry, cook food, and tend to basic personal hygiene for the residents.
Cost: 10,000 won toward cost of food for the day
¬ Chicago, the musical Where: D Cube Art Centre, Sindorim, Seoul What: This musical is set in Prohibition-era Chicago, a satire on corruption in the administration of criminal justice and the concept of the “celebrity criminal”. It is based on a play by the same name by Maurine Dallas Watkins, a reporter who was assigned to cover the 1924 trials of two women accused of murder, Beulah Annan and BelvaGaertner. Theperformance is in Korean.
VIP: 110,000 won; R: 90,000 won; OP: 80,000 won; S: 70,000 won; A: 40,000 won
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
What’s on
¬ Moonlight tour of Hangdeokgung Palace
¬ Crafts Class –Guijumeoni Where: 5th floor of the Yeoksam Global Village Center What: A guijumeoni making class. Theguijumeomni is a pouch made of materials such as silk paper. Participants are also taught how to makemaedeup, or Korean knots. Cost: 5,000 won
Where: Changdeokgung Palace, Seoul What: The Changdeokgung Palace is known for its aesthetics and architecture, set against a breathtaking natural scenery. It is part of the Creation of Living Palaces project. The Changdeokgung Palace Moonlight Tour begins from the main gate, Donhwamun Gate, and continues through the Injeongjeon Hall, Nakseonjae, and Huwon. On the 15th day of each lunar month, the Changdeokgung Palace reveals its beauty, reflected in the might of a full moon. There are specialized guide interpretation services for foreigners. Cost: 30,000 won/person (Maximum 100 people per session)
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Shopping
 Myeong-Dong Retail purists will love shopping paradise Myeong-Dong’s malls, such as Doota and Migliore, which are filled with traditional hanboks (traditional Korean dress) costumes and gold jewellery, shoes, gadgets, girlie knick-knacks and fun window displays. This is a fantastic shopping area in Seoul with value-for-money buys. Myeong-Dong, which opens from November to February, is located in downtown Seoul and is also wellknown for its eating, drinking and entertainment establishments. Some of the top stores in Seoul are found along its narrow alleys.
Address: Seoul-si Jung-gu Namdaemun-ro 2ga 140
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Shopping
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Shopping
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Shopping
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
SEOUL
Shopping
¬ Apgujeong-Dong Apgujeong-Dong is another area in Seoul with exciting stores and shops. Regarded as the Rodeo Drive of South Korea, it is Fashion Street thronged by the richest and flashiest who will not bat an eyelid over the high price tags. A magnet for fashionistas and image-conscious teenagers, it is where the headquarters of entertainment agencies, such as SM Entertainment and JYP Entertainment, are located.
The Café Pascucci coffee chain in Apgujeong was used as one of the main filming locations for Seoul Broadcasting System’s 2001 drama Beautiful Days.
Where: Apgujeong-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Shopping
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Shopping
SEOUL
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Shopping
¬ Itaewon Itaewon is a famous shopping spot popular with bargain hunters and entertainment seekers and has greatly enhanced Seoul’s reputation as a shopper’s paradise. High-quality leather products can be found here at reasonable prices as well as various types of traditional souvenirs. Counterfeit goods and clothing are ubiquitous and of varying quality, but some genuine goods which are produced locally for the international market can sometimes be found here. Itaewon is also known for tailors who make custom-made suits.
Where: Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
¬ Yongsan Electronics Market Yongsan Electronics Market is a retail area in Seoul that sells appliances, stereos, computers and peripherals, office equipment, telephones, lighting equipment, electronic games and software, videos and CDs. A variety of electronic components for constructing computers and other items can also be found. Homegrown products generally cost 20 per cent less here than in other retail outlets, while imported items can be as much as 50 per cent cheaper.
Where: Seoul-siYongsan-guHangangor2(yi)-ga 15-2
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Shopping
¬ Shinsegae
¬ Dongdaemun Market The market sells all types of goods but notably silks and fabric, clothes, shoes and leather goods, sporting goods, plumbing and electronics, office supplies and toys. It also boasts fortune tellers, food areas specialising in Korean cuisine, and pet shops. The market is on the list of Asia’s 10 greatest streetfood cities.. Where: Subway line 2, Dongdaemun History & Culture Park station exit #2 or 14
As South Korea’s first department store, the Shinsegae Department Store’s main branch boasts a long history and tradition. The chain offers imported luxury goods along with kimchi, ginseng, and a wide selection of other traditional Korean foods, including local specialties, making it a great place to shop at, especially for foreign tourists. The main branch is located in Seoul Chungmuro; other branches are located in Gangnam, Yeongdeungpo, and several other areas.
Where: Seoul Jung-gu Chungmu-ro 1-ga 52-5 (main branch) Seoul Seocho-guBanpo-dong 19-39 (Gangnambranch) Seoul Yeongdeungpo-gu/ Yeongdeungpo-dong 4-ga 434-5 (Yeongdeungpo ranch)
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Shopping
ÂŹ Namdaemun Market The Namdaemun Market, meaning the great southern gate, is one of the oldest and largest shopping areas in South Korea, frequented by both locals and foreign visitors. Some of the top buys in this famous shopping district include an assortment of ginseng as well as thousands of beautiful household and modern lifestyle items. This famous gate and market, which opens from November to February, is located near MyeongDong and is easily accessible from most major hotels in Seoul.
Where: Seoul-si Jung-guNamchang-dong49
SEOUL
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Eateries
¬ Bulgogi Beef barbecued on the table Bulgogi is marinated meat cooked by traditional grilling techniques using gridirons or perforated dome griddles that sit on braziers. Variations are dakbulgogi (chicken) or dwaejibulgogi (pork), depending on what kind of meat and seasoning are used. Recommended Restaurant: ByeokjeaGalbi Address: 467 Dogok-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Telephone: (02) 2058 3535
¬ Raw seafood Because of its geographic location, South Korea is also famous for its seafood. Restaurants receive the ingredients from the fishermen on the sea coast every morning. Some of the restaurants often serve raw preparations of whale, flatfish and abalone served chilled and sliced with sauces like the spicy and vinegary chojang or with some doenjang, fermented bean paste. Recommended Restaurant: Goraebul Address: 828-53 Yeoksam 1-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Telephone: (02) 556 3677
Bibimbap Rice mixed with vegetables and hot pepper paste Bibimbap is served as a bowl of warm white rice topped with namul (sautéed and seasoned vegetables) and gochujang (chili pepper paste). A raw or fried egg and sliced meat (usually beef) are common additions. The ingredients are stirred together thoroughly just before eating.
Recommended Restaurant:Jung Sik Dang Address: 3F Across B/D, 649-7 Sinsa-dong, Seoul, South Korea Telephone: (02) 517 4654
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Eateries
¬ Ancient Koryo royal cuisine Food from Gaesung, the former capital of the Koryo dynasty, is more subtle. Gaesong food also has the advantage of being visually stunning, whether it is the gujeolpan–crepes with finely julienned vegetables and proteins separated according to colour – or sinseollo, a soup with a bounty of meats, seafood and vegetables served in a heated silver brazier.
Recommended Restaurant: Yong Su San Address: Yong Su San main branch, 118-3 Samcheong-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Telephone: (02) 771 5553
¬ Samgyetang
(Traditional Korean chicken soup)
Samgyetangis a variety of guk or Korean soup, which primarily consists of a whole young chicken and Korean ginseng.In Chinese culture, similar to South Korean culture, it is believed that this soup can prevent illness.Samgyetang is traditionally served in summer for its supposed nutrients, which replace those lost through excessive sweating and physical exertion. Recommended Restaurant: ToSok Chon Address: 85-1 Chaebu-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul Telephone: (02)737 7444
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Eateries
¬ Tteok ¬ Hanjeongsik (Set meal) A Hanjeongsik is a full-course meal with an array of savoury side dishes. The most lavish hanjeongsik traditionally originated from the banquets served in the royal palaces or the homes of aristocrats. Usually the course starts with a cold appetizer and gruel, and the main course includes food either grilled, boiled, steamed, fried, or salted and mixed with seasoning. Hot pots are included as well, and after the meal traditional punches, such as Sikhye (sweet rice punch) or Sujeonggwa (cinnamon-persimmon punch) and desserts may be served. The dishes served vary significantly according to the season or region. Recommended Restaurant: SongJookHeon Address: 37-1 Unni-dong, Jongro-gu, Seoul Telephone: (02) 763 4234
Tteok is a rice cake made by steaming glutinous rice flour. It is customary to eat tteokguk (tteok soup) on New Year’s Day and sweet tteok at weddings and on birthdays. It is often considered a celebratory food and can range from rather elaborate versions with nuts and fruits down to the plain flavoredtteok used in home cooking.
Recommended Restaurant: JilsiruTteok Café Address: Seoul-si Jongno-guGwanhun-dong 10 Telephone: (02) 7335477
SEOUL
ASIAN CITY GUIDE
Eateries
ÂŹ Naengmyeon
(cold noodles)
Naengmyeon is a Korean noodle dish of long and thin noodles handmade from flour and various ingredients like buckwheat, potatoes, sweet potatoes, etc. Naengmyun made with arrowroot starch is darker and chewier than buckwheat noodles. There are varieties with ingredients such as seaweed and green tea.Naengmyeon is served in a large stainless bowl with a tangy iced broth, julienned cucumbers, slices of Korean pear, and either a boiled egg or slices of cold boiled beef or both. Spicy mustard sauce (or mustard oil) and vinegar are often added before eating.
Recommended Restaurant: EuljiMyun Oak Address: 177-1 Yipjung-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul Telephone: (02) 2266 7052
Healthy vegetarian cuisine Ordinarily, vegetarian food includes eggs and dairy products such as milk and cheese. But the stricter forms, veganism and fruitarianism, exclude all animal products. Recommended Restaurant: Baru Address: 5F TemplestayBuilding, 71 Gyeonji-dong, Seoul,South Korea Telephone: (02) 2031 2081