AS M A RA
Vo l . 4 I s s u e 2 THE FORECAST : WOMENSWEAR
AUTUMN / HIVER 18-19
01
QUEST
CONTENTS TREND STORIES / 01 / 11 / 21 MATERIAL FORECAST / 03 / 13 / 23 OFF THE RAMP / 05 / 15 / 25 KEY ITEMS / 07/ 17/ 27 MARKET EDIT / 09 / 19 / 29
GLOCAL
11
COALITION
21
BEHIND THE SCENES
M R I N AL JA I N Trends are truly heading for more and more comfort and fashion is retaining its sense of fun & color. Bright & bold trends like Quest, Glocal & Coalition will celebrate individuality. This season will be a lot about resilience. This journal consists of key trends, fabrics, silhouettes, colors, & runway edits that will form the forecast for A/W-18/19.
RACH N A KHA N N A Themes of the season speak volumes of vibrance, rebound & strength. The moods relvove around an individualistic approach to romanticism, the modern travellers vision & the 80’s grunge glamour.
J U H I KHA N N A
So what’s new this season? Padding, protective lines, cosy knits & blinding shimmer came together on the catwalks, perhaps a shelter from the doom and gloom of a world in crisis! To find out what trends are going to cause a stampede in stores next season, keep reading!
KRITI KA KAT H U R IA
The only way up in color is a bold array of rich tones complimented by renewed luminosity making a dent in delivering new products for the season. Rich red and deep berry compliment new takes on green & honey in delivering a warm yet invigorating color palette for this season.
VAIS HA LI GAU TA M
They say opposites attract, and this will be seen with the array of natural and synthetic applications of trims and fabrics that both contrast and collude in making the material forecast for this season.
K A N I M E S H N AYA
patterns, d range of prints, Despite the broa tructed xtures, decons palettes & te ve... e statement slee th ith w s te et ou silh tically nways. This prac dominated the ru glory its ion has found universal fascinat era to the Romantic es nc re fe re with y’s woman. reworked for toda
QUEST
COLOU R PALETTE 19-0814 TCX
19-3906 TCX
19-4329 TCX Quest revolves around the importance of illumination, where thoughts and training are prized possessions. Focus is on smartness and practicality, whether learning for leisure or life skills, knowledge becomes extremly important. Belisure is changing the way people shop and travel whilst on business. For women’s wear, the attention is on basic, utilitarian outlines. The look is preppy, at times unbalanced, retro, beholding to the defiant scholasticism of the Hipsters. Comfort dressing is likewise key, as the limits amongst work and leisure collapses. The rebel and romanticism are combined together resulting in unexpected and dreamlike interpretation of the classics.
16-3920 TCX
15-1322 TCX
18-1160 TCX
18-1547 TCX
16-4719 TCX
14-0847 TCX
18-4016 TCX 01
02
Puppy-tooth checks, hound’s-tooth, chevrons and classic twills look new and modern when drafted into catwalk inspired silhouettes, and are versatile in
RETAILORED CLASSICS
classic worsteds wool blends, gleaming silky blouse-weights or casual sturdy cotton bases.
DRAFTED PRECISION Architectural drafting and layouts inspire precise classics. Open-checked suitings, shirting weights explore aesthetics of precise pleats, graph-paper checks and pencil strokes or chalk stripes.
LIBRARIAN CHECKS
glen d prim n a t r sma ludes c in t a et th uted y hecks m c a f o r n fo range piratio nds. s fined le e in b r n a ic as a lass pires serve ks in c c yle ins s t e e s h l c m a form und to d over Classic py-tooth an her-bo t a le and pup eriors plaid, t in d woo tte. Warm ur pale lo o c ted satura
MATERIAL FORECAST
LEARNED STRIPES
Lace trends
University conveyed through collegiate stripes, neck-tie inspired stripes & variegated stripes in bold colours offering a sense of smartness. Palette of faded and dusty tones is explored to bring out the balance of modern and vintage
BALANCED CONTRAST
by spired in is and Lace lace . e r u t e hitec more Filigre al arc made ic s e s r r a la Neoc marl o uards q d c e r ja u ct colo rns abstra ry with l patte a a r r o o p fl n in contem rn. Typical e see r a a y s thetic slubby rn aes e d o with m lette. ed pa t a d p u
An interesting play between textures elevate classics while beautifully balancing the contrast. Silky, polished, and buffed is paired with the velvety, sueded and brushed textures in harmonious, cosy and calming tones.
QUEST 03
04
TORY BURCH
ANTONIO BERARDI
CÉLINE
MULBERRY
ANTONIO BERARDI
RODARTE
MULBERRY
CHLOÉ
WHISTLES
ULLA JOHNSON
CHRISTOPHER KANE
SEA FALL
CHLOÉ
CHLOÉ
ZUHAIR MURAD
CALVIN KLEIN
LELA ROSE
ALICE AND OLIVIA
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
ALBERTA FERRETTI
ALBERTA FERRETTI
OFF THE RAMP
QUEST
05
KEY ITEMS
Reinvented Classic Shirt
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Statement Lace Dress
G IA M BATT ISTA VA L L I
06
QUEST
07
Pencil Skirt
CALVIN KLEIN
Updated Shi rt
BROCK COLLECTION The Full Plaid Skirt
No. 21
o u se Pu ss y Bo w Bl
JOSEPH JOS
T u r t le
Nec k P u l love
P O RTS 19 61
r
08
CELINÉ
CELINÉ
BALENCIAGA
ISABEL MARANT
VERONIQUE LEROY
THE ROW
STELLA MCCARTNEY
MARNI
MARKET EDIT
ISABEL MARANT
MSGM
SEE BY CHLOÉ
RED VALENTINO
SACAI
MARNI
FREEPEOP LE
QUEST 09
JOSEPH jos
10
GLOCAL
COLOU R PALETTE 19-3316 TCX
19-4049 TCX
18-1409 TCX In an epoch driven by information, the desire to explore and trust our instincts plays a major role. Unsure circumstances are causing the rise of a counterculture whose values and norms of behaviour differ substantially from those of the mainstream. This is reflective of an urban free spirited philosophy concentrated on maintainability, reasonableness and borderless impacts. Natural textiles, tangible surfaces, intricately decorated designs gain prominence. Textiles look for global influences and traditional techniques, Quilting, layering of traditional textiles and salvaged fabrics create new symphony which is both old and new.
17-1537 TCX
19-1863 TCX
15-1150 TCX
16-1054 TCX
18-0933 TCX
18-0117 TCX
18-0521 TCX
11
12
FOLKLORE
Pretty traditional florals from around the globe are exquisitely worked with
detailed stitches. Crewel and lofty embroideries are seen on cotton and silk bases. Stylised blooms are inspired from the eastern European belt.
MILITARY CLOUT Surfaces are enhanced with folkloric embroideries and artworks. Mix and match of utility with adornment is widely seen.Essential performance fabrics have a well-travelled, lived-in feel. Military palette works well as a canvas for embellished glocal look focussing on compact waxed cottons and soft polyesters.
VINTAGE TEXTURE
red
Textu hues. t u o n wor look. seen in e r a t velled e a h r t c o e r and c ut a tim cking, ring o o b m o t s t d perfec s, han te are e lace t g le a t a p in tinted f fine v look o ses in a e t b a e c z li De vy gau s, hea ie b b do
MATERIAL FORECAST
PIGMENTED STRIPES
T
M EN N R O D HA
RIC
from pieces l a n io tradit pe are corated n Euro e r d te s ly a e e stitch Dens oss the ork and ies acr tw r it a n , u y r m com roide rns are for emb e patte d s e r lo e c id le nt cons old-sca in vibra B s r . e n o d r ti o inspira ded b tton ith ban and bu w r o d r e ir in m l comb asiona nd occ a s r u . colo trims
ETRO
Meandering configurations are created with painted warps and printed yarns along with random spacing and looser constructions. Nature derived pigment colours serve as an inspiration for these patterns. Indigenous nomadic tribes inspire a festival of colour and pattern. Densely textured weaves borrow motifs from ornate kilims, combining flat, fringed and novelty yarns, as well as space-dyed, faded coloured yarns for a worn, vintage appeal.
GLOCAL 13
14
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
NAEEM KHAN
MISSONI
ETRO
TEMPERLY LONDON
TEMPERLY LONDON
TEMPERLY LONDON
ALICE AND OLIVIA
ETRO
RED VALENTINO
SONIA RYKEIL
RED VALENTINO
TANYA TAYLOR
VANESSA BRUNO
ZIMMERMAN
ULLA JOHNSON
ALICE AND OLIVIA
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
ZUHAIR MURAD
VALENTINO
VALENTINO
OFF THE RAMP
GLOCAL 15
KEY ITEMS
Patc hwo rk Dress
SEA NY
Fo l k Embro ide red Dress
U LLA JOH NSON
16
GLOCAL
H ig h-wa isted Trous e r
LEMA I RE
E m b ro id e re d ove rs iz T re n c h ed j a c ket
ERDEM
Vintage Lace Top
REBECCA TAYLOR Folk Volume ToP
TEmPERLY LONDON
Corduroy Trouser
TORY BURCH
17
18
TALITHA
CURRENT ELLIOT
TORY BURCH
VITA KIN
CAVALLI
SACAI
ALICE AND OLIVIA
ZIMMERMAN
MARKET EDIT
ZIMMERMAN
ISABEL MARANT
FREEPEOPLE
IRO
VITA KIN
LOVESHACKFANCY VILSHENKO
CARTN EY STELLA MC
GLOCAL
19
VIGUE
20
COALITION
COLOU R PALETTE 19-4728 TCX
19-4121 TCX
18-1856 TCX The impact of new advances in technology, augmented reality is opening the door to acceptance of more unusual aesthetics. In this present reality where we can make our own identities, gender ease and uniqueness are grasped. This story explores dark and revolutionary melodies, with high-shine vinyl surfaces and sexually liberated Undertones, tonal dressing becomes bolder, with deep colours sitting alongside their brighter counterparts. The look stands for a bold statement and has prominent sheen with encrusted futuristic details and finishes. The overall look is opulent and statement-making, but also remains commercial and multi-functional.
809 C
19-3953 TCX
13-3820 TCX
19-3230 TCX
19-1623 TCX
17-5102 TCX
18-1142 TCX
21
22
LUXE SHINE
Fluid silks, paper taffetas and duchesse satins have a sumptuous after-dark
allure in jewel tones.Subtle glitter finishes, lurex inserted in weaves, metallic
yarns, prism effect, ombré gradations and shadowed stripes update these opulent qualities.Textured velvets in a dark palette are seen as a huge trend.
SURFACE DETAILS Pop colour palette of the 80s is adapted to accessorize basic clothing pieces. Expressive badges in bold saturated tones, worked on with sequins and paillette are key for surface ornamentation.
Metal Hardware in new tactile finishes, high contrast trims and fasteners are must have add-ons for basic street style.
PRETTY GRUNGE
etallic with m d e t a re d are up ulles a T s . e k d o a llic ing lo d broc beguil . Meta bosse s a r m t e e y e r s la tive ised o attern seduc rds, ra oral p a fl s u e r d q e c lo s oral ja e exp h styli silky fl es wit nd lac , c a é r la , o k g v r de beadin ds. Da eight ry or groun e Lightw r e id fects. k o r r ree ef emb d da g n li y a fi v s h a yarn ith he me wit ted w lvet co n e e v m é a r orn devo ds and r a u q jac
MATERIAL FORECAST
HIGH VISIBILITY
ED H S I L L EM BE S E N O T M ETAL
Plaid patterns in bright saturated tones are seen as a major base fabric. Insertion of novelty, metal coated yarn along with high contrast hues in seen as an update for this category.
YSL
Colour metallic paillettes and sequins are used as decoration to create wondrous textures. Encrusted crystalline surfaces, all-over-sequinned fabrics are key for trans-seasonal look.
COALITION 23
24
ANNA SUI
CHRISTOPHER KANE
MARCHESA
ADAM SELMAN
ALEXANDER WANG
TOM FORD
ALICE AND OLIVIA
CHANEL
TADASHI SHOJI
NAEEM KHAN
ROCHAS
RED VALENTINO
VERONICA BEARD
YSL
GUCCI
ALICE AND OLIVIA
CHRISTOPHER KANE
GUCCI
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
CHLOÉ
OFF THE RAMP
COALITION 25
KEY ITEMS
Meta l l ic Pa rty Top
ISA BEL MA RA N T
Embe l l ished Mesh Dress
RED VA L ENT I NO
26 COALITION
An k le Sl i m Trouse r
CH LOÉ
P le ate
C H R ISTO
d Sk i rt
P H E R KA NE
Wi ndowpane Dress
S EA FAL L Meta l l ic Fri nge
R O C HAS
Romantic Flo ra l M id i Dress
ORLA KI ELY
27
28
AMEN
CHLOÉ
AMEN
BALMAIN
MARCHESA
MATCHES FASHION
PAUL AND JOE
MARNI
MARKET EDIT
MARC JACOBS
WANDERING
IRO
KENZO
DOLCE AND GABBANA
MARNI
FAITH CONNEXION
NO. 21
COALITION 29
MONIQUE
NOTES
NOTES
AU T U M N / H I V E R 1 8 - 1 9 E D I TO R
N i t i n G u pta
C R E AT I V E D I R E CT I O N M ri na l Ja i n
R E S E A R C H D I R E CT I O N An i mesh Naya k J uh i Khan na Rac hna Khan na Va i s h a l i G a u ta m
A R T D I R E CT I O N Kr i t i ka Kat h u r i a
w w w . a s m a ra i nte rn at i o n a l . c o m
AU ST RA L I A I BA N G L A D E S H I C H I N A I H O N G KO N G I I N D I A I I N D O N E S I A I PA K I STA N I S R I L A N KA I S PA I N I T U R K E Y I UA E I U SA I V I E T N A M