Athens Voice Eng guide 2016 by Athens Voice

C I T Y

G U I D E

S U M M E R

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SUMMER 2016 • www.athensvoice.gr • www.bestofathens.gr • FREE PRESS

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CHECK I OUT T This gu ! of Athe ide ns availabis also le on bestofaline at thens.g r

Publisher Fotis Georgeles Editorial Consultant: Stavroula Panagiotaki

Editorial Director: Angeliki Birbili

Editor: Vangelis Koronakis Art Director: Konstantina Vlachopoulou Sub-editor: Eliza Synadinou Assistant editor: Ero Partsakoulaki IT Manager: Vaios Syntsirmas Editorial Team: Yannis Nenes, Dimitris Mastrogiannitis, Nenela Georgele, Lena Chourmouzi, George Dimitrakopoulos, Takis Skrivanos, Georgia Skamanga, Giannis Dimopoulos, Yannis Tsakalos, Karolina Niamonitaki, Eleni Bezirianoglou, Katerina Vnatsiou, Marianna Marmara, Danai Kamzola, Danai Derou Photographer: Thanassis Karatzas Copy Editor: Dimitra Grous Creative Art Director: Fotis Pechlivanidis Layout & Design: Morfoula Vogiatzoglou, Sotos Anagnos Advertising Director: Louiza Nathanail Commercial Development Director: Nikos Tsouanatos

Dear friends

Digital Advertising Manager: Anastasia Bafouni

ATHENS VOICE, the capital’s top weekly free press, welcomes you to our citywith this annual publication in English, produced to share with you, our team’s inside knowledge and expertise of the city and a selection of our favourite Greek islands.

Direct Market Manager: Vassilis Zarkadoulas Direct Market: Nikos Damdimopoulos, Evangelos Kotsos, Theodora Themeli, Eleonora Verikokidi Advertising Coordinators: Maria Avgerinou, Efi Orfanakou

This complete guide aspires Contents to become your daily companion during your stay.

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What’s more, our online guides for Athens and Thessaloniki are up and running with daily updates, news and events, as well as comprehensive guides of the two cities and most Greek islands.

An annual publication of Athens Voice S.A. Harilaou Trikoupi 22, 106 79 Athens-Greece Editorial: tel +302103617360 Advertising: tel +30210 3617530

e-mail: info@bestofathens.gr Copyright ATHENS VOICE 2016

SE RECYC L E

COVER ARTIST HYPOKONDRIAK is an illustrator, graphic artist and comic artist. His work has been published in various magazines, fanzines and webzines (ATHENS VOICE, Babel, Strukt,). He employs various mixed techniques for illustration. He has participated in expositions and festivals in Greece and abroad.

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Enjoy your stay Pasalimani

08 Greece explained

48 Hotels

84 Sifnos

14 Archaelogical sites

50 Restaurants

86 Syros

18 Neighbourhoods

64 Bars & clubs

88 Tinos

20 Museums

68 Beaches

92 Paros

28 Culture & Art

74 Amorgos

93 Public

36 Green life

76 Ios

39 Family Athens

78 Koufonisia

94 Maps

40 Shopping

80 Naxos

98 Metro

47 Bookshops

82 Serifos

Transportation

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 3

Greece From A to Z G

reece: a country of contrasts. It’s not only about the sun, the beaches and the summer mood. Greece’s capItal Is a bustlInG metropolIs: busy and lIvely wIth a huGe hIstorIcal backGround. It also offers numerous optIons for lonG nIGhts to remember. athens Is probably just your Gateway to the Islands, but no matter how lonG you stay over, there are some thInGs you need to know...

Photo Constantinos tsilakis

By ELIZA SYNADINOU

“NEVER ON A SUNDAY”

Oscar winning music theme for the movie which goes by the same name. The composer, Manos Hadjidakis, is one of the most popular Greek composers.

8 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

ARE WE LOUD? We are loud-and proud. Usually people from other countries think that we argue when they hear our loud voices as we speak, but we don't! We are just lively people.

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BROKEN PAVEMENTS Warning:

Walking around in Athens is not easy- but it’s worth it. BOUZOUKIA The ultimate Greek night-out. Large stages, pop singers, whisky and flowers. Yes, we do like to throw flowers at the singer to show our appreciation- don’t ask why.

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CROSS Older people will cross them-

selves when passing a church. It’s a common gesture for good luck, or for one to show his affection to God.

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DO GREEKS SPEAK ENGLISH?

They do, but do try to speak slowly if you face a confused person looking at you with wonder. We are also very talented in communicating with gestures. DRIVERS RULE And pedestrians don’t. Be very careful. DERTI “An unrelenting sense of loss or unfulfilled desire”. It’s a word used to describe the heavy feeling you get after a heartbreak, a sentiment Greeks love to sing about. _____________________________________________________

EYE CONTACT Greeks openly stare at

anything that interests them so don’t be offended if you are the center of attention wherever you go. EVZONES Greeks have their own traditional pleated kilt that comes out of the 19th century: it is called “foustanella”. It is worn by the guards of the former Royal Palace, Evzones, (meaning the “wellbelted” elite soldiers, a term traced in Homer’s times). Nowadays, young men doing their service are hand-picked for the Presidential Guard according to specific qualities, such as their height. You can pose next to them and see if they blink. Every so often they do a little march to break the monotony of standing still all day and on the hour you can watch the changing of the guard. Just make sure that you do not stand in their way; they are not allowed to stop for any reason-instead, they can march-kick the obstacles with their pompom shoes.

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FACILITIES FOR THE DISABLED

It’s getting better over the years, but in general, you wouldn’t say that Athens is a disabledfriendly city. FRAPPE SOCIETY Frappe coffee is the lifeblood of Greek society. Made with instant Nescafe mixed with water, ice, milk and lots of sugar, a frappe will provide you with the right amount of caffeine for your coffee break while gossiping and people watching. CITY CITY GUIDE GUIDESUMMER SUMMER2016 2016 _ 9

Photo Nikolas Papadopoulos

Evzones with the traditional ÒfoustanellaÓ

GREEK COFFEE (Some call it Turkish

as both countries are claiming the origin). Served hot in tiny small cups. You have to wait for it to settle and you can only drink it to a certain point. Many foreigners drink the bottom part of the coffee as well, not knowing you are supposed to drink only the liquid part. Greek coffee has to be made the traditional way that most die-hard old men coffee shops (cafeneion) follow: boiled on hot sand. There is a long tradition in Greece of reading coffee cups and foretelling the future – a highly prized skill. G- GRAFFITI Athens used to be a paradise for graffiti artists, as most of them would go unpunished. On the city walls, buildings, statues, almost everywhere possible, you can see graffitis, which are

Meet our Athens!

The best way to live the authentic Athenian Experience Get to know our city through the eyes of a local! The Municipality of Athens’s well renowed program «My Athens», matches you with enthusiastic volunteers who can’t wait to introduce you to their favourite city! The procedure is as easy as creating a profile in social media – after you provide all the necessary details, an Athens Local will get back to you within 48 hours. You can tailor your tour according to what you are looking for, you will not pay anything as this is a volunteerbased procedure and you can rest assured that your guide is there because he wants to help you experience Athens through his/her eyes. Visit myathens.thisisathens.org and make it happen! If you want to take a quick look at what Athens really is, from A to…S, look for the hashtag #thisisathens on social media! 10 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

usually about political slogans, symbols and crew tags. Still, there are many creative graffiti artists who spray the city in their own colourful way. ______________________________________________________

HONEY An ancient super food. In mytholo-

gy, Melissa, the daughter of the king of Crete, nurtured the god of gods, Zeus, with honey. And Hippocrates was known for applying honey widely while curing various ailments –he also advised people to eat honey every day in order to live longer. From the early prehistoric times until today the art of apiculture and honey collection still remains a primary agricultural activity for Greeks. Today in Greece, honey is used to sweeten breads, cakes, and sauces. It is the main star of the traditional Greek sweet, baklava. It is also used to sweeten wine, mixed with herbal and floral teas; honey helps create the “mortal man’s nectar”. Due to long periods of sunshine, Greek honey is internationally known for its distinct biological and organoleptic characteristics. The abrupt changes of landscape make Greek flora so rich, that 7,500 different species of plants are growing in Greece giving many different flavours of honey, especially in the region of Attica and Crete. You will want to try thyme honey, which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

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IT IS A SMOKER’S PARADISE Most of

the bars, taxis and restaurants are smokerfriendly. Smoking is very popular in Greece and still relatively cheap compared to the rest of Europe. Non-smoking signals in bars are not to be trusted. If you are looking for a smoke-free environment, ask the waitress instead. ILLEGAL USE OF DRUGS Marijuana is illegal in Greece. If you are found carrying it around (or using it) you will probably get arrested. ______________________________________________________

JOGGING More and more, Athenians are now running outdoors. Just be careful of the passing-by cars (you can find some running routes on page 39). JEWELLERY SHOPS Everywhere! Greek men don’t wear so much gold like, say the Italians do. Except maybe, a golden cross their mother gave them 30 years ago, worn underneath their shirt. Greek women love jewellery but, most of all, tourists love handcrafted gold since it is inexpensive in Greece (mainly because labor is cheaper) but also for its high quality and excellent craftsmanship. In fact, tourists can be addicted to gold. Take a stroll around Plaka, the old part of the city near Acropolis, and you will see how fascinated they are by the golden jewellery with themes based on ancient Greek pieces. You’ve never seen so many golden dolphins in your life before. ______________________________________________________

KAFSONAS Means heatwave. Greece is

hot during the summer period, but what did you expect? Wear sunscreen and a hat, and never forget to carry around a bottle of water. KIOSKS We call them “periptero” and they can provide you with almost anything. Cigarettes, milk, sodas, snacks, condoms etc. Some of them stay open 24/7: that’s the best part of it. KOULOURI Walking around the city, you will spot some men selling this round pastry coated in sesame seeds. It’s the most healthy snack you can find for a relatively small price (maximum 1,5E). KEFI A favourite word, meaning “having fun”. If we had to choose only one word describing Greece’s values in general, this would be it.

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LITERS OF HOUSE WINE 0,25, 05 or

1L, served usually in kartoutsos (kar-toutchos). Kartoutsos are metal jars in different colors and fixed sizes used in traditional tavernas to serve barrelled wine or in bulk. Many new bohemians consider these kartoutsos to be excellent kitchenware.

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MALAKA This is the Greek word for wank-

er but we don’t always use it like that. If the person addressing you in this word looks angry, slowly walk away because you never know! In any other case, do not feel offended: it’s also a very common word among friends or colleagues, something like “dude”. MOUTZA You may notice that some drivers give an open palm gesture to each other, thrusting their hand forward like in high-five motion and uttering grumbling sounds as “Naaa! Malaka!”. It’s a kind of an offensive curse of Byzantine, or French, or Venetian origin when chained prisoners were paraded through the streets and abused by having handfuls of filth from the gutter picked up by onlookers and thrust into their faces. But seriously now, they offer some excitement in a dull hot Athens day. ______________________________________________________

NEOCLASSICAL HOUSES Unfortu-

nately, all too many of the beautiful neoclas-

Be prepared

Athens is a modern, European metropolis and can accommodate you with anything you wish. Check the official website for foreign visitors, thisisathens.org provided by the City of Athens Convention and Visitors Bureau and find out anything you need to know about the city, from its rich history to current trends and numerous propositions as to what to do when in Athens. If you are already strolling in the streets of our beautiful city, don’t forget to check on the Athens info-kiosks,: there, trained stuff will introduce you to everything you need to know about the city, from sightseeing options and details, to transportation choices and routes. They can be found in the following spots: Athens International Airport “El. Venizelos” arrivals level+302103530390, Mon-Sun 8:00-20:00. All year round. Historic centre at Amalias Ave Dionissiou Areopagitou St. +302103217116, Mon-Sun 9:0021:00. Months of Operation: May-September Pireaus Port Authority, cruise ship arrival terminal Mon-Sat 8:00-13:00, Sun closed. Months of Operation: May-September.

sical buildings of the 19th century were demolished during Athens’s rapid expansion after WW II, but several have survived and they have been renovated. Most of them are in the area of Plaka.

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OWL Throughout the antiquity, goddess

Athena and her companion owl served as city and primary coin type. What made the Athenian silver so popular and long lasting was its status as the definition of good money. The modern Greek one-euro coin features the owl taken from the ancient Athenian four-drachma piece which was practically the first coin in the history of Europe. You can meet some Greek owls in the Attica Zoological Park at Yalou - Spata which is the 3rd largest bird collection in the world with over 2,000 birds from 320 different species.

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PALAMAKIA Clapping your hands rhythmically. Apart from showing appreciation, it’s also essential for dancing and having fun. PARKING SPACE There isn’t such a thing in Athens. Use a bike, taxi or public transport. ______________________________________________________

QUEER ATHENS Gay and lesbian clubs and bars can be found in the area of Gazi. You can find wild dance floors or quiet places within a kilometer from the metro station “Kerameikos”.

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REBETIKA A fusion of Turkish and Greek music with themes similar to the blues, that came to life when the Ottoman Greeks were forced out of Turkey in the 1920s. Greeks enjoy to dance and sing about sadness as much as about pleasure. RELAX That’s the most important part of the Greek CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 11

coffee ritual. Do a little chit chat, read your newspaper or just stay still thinking about great truths of life. Enjoy. In Greece, you can buy a drink or a few at a bar and stay for hours without anybody rushing you. ______________________________________________________

SANDALS Best traditional leather sandals

Photo Lenia ZigLaki

of minimalistic taste by Stavros Melissinos, world famous for his excellent craftsmanship. Even The Beatles and Jacky O have bought his sandals. Stavros is also a poet, mostly known for Rubiyat, a poem in praise of wine and spirit. (See Shopping, shoes). To find Stavros and his sandals just cross Monastiraki square in front of the Metro station and walk towards the intersection of Athinas Street and Ermou. Take a left on Ermou and walk two streets and go right on AyiasTheklas Street and he is at #2. +302103219247

AtHENstRivIA

● The rails on the pedestrian pathway at Makriyiannis Street, are the remnants of the old Athenian Tram which stopped operating in the early 60s. ● The underground river flowing underneath Monastiraki Square, some of its parts now exposed in sight, is Eridanos river. ●The longest road in Athens is Aharnon street, stretching for about 3 kilometers of length. ● The narrowest is Kallipou street, about 2 meters in weidth. It is located between Monastirakisquare and Kapnikarea, intersecting Ermou Street. ● The name of the english nobleman who removed the marbels of Parthenon is Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin. ● The first Athenian suburb was Kolonos. ● Back in 1853 the population of Athens was 30,000. Today it exceeds 3,5 million. ● The Presidential Guard (Evzones) in front of the Greek Parliament building at Syntagma, “rotates” every hour. ● Facing the building of the Academy of Athens, the statue on the left is Plato and that on the right is Socrates. ● The Columns of Olympian Zeus are the remainings of a “gigantic” Temple dedicated to Zeus. At its time, Olympieion as it was called, it was bigger than the Parthenon, in fact it was the biggest temple in Greece. ● The Parthenon’s roof was kept well maintained for more than 2,000 years, until late 17th century, in 1687, when it was bombarded by the Venecians under Francesco Morosini. ● The tallest building in Athens, and in whole Greece, is the “Athens Tower” at Ampelokipi. Its 28 floorstructure go up 103 meters to the sky. ● There are 29 cities in the world named “Athens”, seven of which are found in the United States. ● About 7% of all the marble produced in the world comes from Greece. ● The world’s third leading producer of olives, the Greeks have cultivated olive trees since ancient times. Some olive trees planted in the thirteenth century are still producing olives. ● Greece enjoys more than 250 days of sunshine or 3,000 sunny hours a year. 12 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

On the other hand, there are quite a lot new designers who have updated the classic greek leather sandals to a new impressive level. Not just strappy, raw-edged leather flats but contemporary designs that are far from being “ancient”, combining aesthetics of Ancient Greek sculpture and mythology and modern streetwise accessories culture. You can even find winged sandals reminiscent of those the ancient god Hermes wore. Or sandals made of white leather and olive tree wood (by Greece Is For Lovers design team). Also look for sandals of designers Christina Martini and Nikolas Minoglou, London based Marios Schwab for Ancient Greek Sandals footwear label, Zali Sandals, The Artians Collection, Greek Salad Sandals, Grecian Chick, Zeus+Dione and DiGaia. SUPERSITIONS Greeks have many. “If you see a priest in the street, hang on to your balls”, “If you pass under the stairs as a kid, you will remain short”, “If a pregnant woman’s baby bump is roundshaped, she is pregnant with a girl” and many more. SNFCC The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC) is a project that includes the construction and complete outfitting of new facilities for the National Library of Greece and the Greek National Opera as well as the creation of the 210,000 m² Stavros Niarchos Park, which will be donated to the Greek State by the foundation upon their completion. The SNFCC opened its doors for 4 days in June 2016 attracting more than 115.000 Athenians and will permanently open in the summer of 2017. ______________________________________________________

TAP WATER in Greece is fine. And bottled

spring water is readily available. Nevertheless, do not pay more than 50 cents for O,5L of bottled water. THE EVIL EYE Something most Greeks believe to be true: If someone looks at you in a bad way, he will “give you the evil eye”, and cause you trouble, headache and bad luck. That’s why we are very often wearing a small blue charm, for protection. They say it should be worn especially by babies, who are still innocent and therefore weak. ______________________________________________________

Photo THANASSIS KARATZAS

URGE TO DO THE RIGHT THING

Greeks have a word for it: filotimo. We are very proud of how difficult it is to explain this word, as there is no translation in other languages. In little words, it means “the sense of duty for doing good”. For example, if one sees a weaker person in danger, one’s filotimo would urge him to protect this person. ______________________________________________________

VEGETABLES You should preferably buy them from the farmer’s market (in Greek, “laiki agora"). Held on various days of the week in neighbourhoods throughout the city. It’s colourful, noisy, packed and you can find anything; from fresh vegetables to plastic flowers. V-FOR VERANDA or balconies. In Greece even the tiniest apartment will have a balcony, usually full of plants. All the greenery that lacks in the streets of Athens can be found on roof gardens and balconies, bulging with geraniums and hanging plants. Greeks love sitting in their balconies, drinking coffee in the morning or a glass of wine later in the day. ______________________________________________________

WHEN IN GREECE, YOU HAVE TO EAT Hospitality in Greece includes a slight

element of force, it’s an “innocent” demonstration of power. A good host insists that you eat or drink more and only when you have refused a number of times you will get a reprieve; be charmingly persistent with your “no”. WELCOME WITH BREAD AND WATER At the taverna, before you order, they automatically bring you a glass of water and bread. This is because in Greece, fresh water is always welcome on a hot summer day and also a way for the owners to welcome you.

XAPLA a word meaning “lounging” or “lying down”. Except for the most touristic neighbourhoods like Plaka and Monastiraki, many people in the other parts of the city take a slightly big lunch and nap breaks between 3 and 5. The sun is burning and we are sleepy after a rich lunch, excuse us. ____________________________________________________

YES AND NO Look on your right. Now look on your left. You just performed the “No” gesture in Greek. Now look down and then look up. Congratulations, you now performed the “Yes” gesture. YELLOW TAXIS They are everywhere and, compared to other international cities, the rates are still cheap. You should always request a receipt for the amount paid, which should also indicate the taxi registration number and the driver’s name. If you do get overcharged or other passengers are taken on board, don’t start a fight but report the taxi number or the licence plate to the Tourist police or to the Tourist information office. You can always use the TaxiBeat, the Uber and the TaxiPlon free applications. Or simply use the excellent Athens metro system in the first place. ____________________________________________________

ZEIBEKIKO A Greek improvisational

dramatic solo dance for men. Its name comes from Zeybeks, people of Asia Minor. The dancer is surrounded by other people, who kneel and clap to him. It is a renowned dance for “mangas”, the macho archetype in the Greek poetry of masculinity. ■

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CROSSROADS OF HISTORY I

Photo Panayiotis Koutroubis

parthenon

Exploring the world’s historical legacy n Greece, there are so many important landmarks one could say the entire country is a historical monument: here, you can visit 17 Unesco World Heritage sites. Among them, lays the world’s treasure, the Acropolis, once Attica’s citadel, rising high above the modern city, imposing symbol of the Greek legacy.

By ELIZA SYNADINOU

Acropolis of Athens

A complex of magnificent buildings, some of the greatest architectural and artistic monuments of all time, bequeathed by Greek antiquity to the world, built atop of a rock, roughly 30,000 sqm. According to UNESCO, «On this hill were born Democracy, Philosophy, Theatre, Freedom of Expression and Speech, which provide to this day the intellectual and spiritual foundation for the contemporary world and its values». During the 8th century BC, the Acropolis gradually acquired a religious character with the establishment of the cult of Athena, the city’s patron goddess. Following the city’s flourish after a victory against the Persians and the establishment of Democracy, the impressive collection of architectural works was created during the Golden Age (5th BC), under the guidance of sculptor Pheidias and the vision of statesman Pericles. The temple of Parthenon, built by Ictinos and Kallikrates (447-432BC) is the most famous among them and one of the most recognizable icons of all time. There is also the Erectheion, dedicated to the god Poseidon. In its porch one can see the replacements of the famous Caryatids (421-406BC) that are now housed in the Acropolis museum. Other monuments include the impressive entrance to the Acropolis, known as the Propylaea, designed by Mnesicles (43714 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

431BC) and the temple of Athena Nike (421-407BC).

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Parthenon The Parthenon, temple dedicated to the city’s patron Athena, was conceived as the centre of the monumental complex in the Acropolis and its main function was to house the great statue of Athens, made out of gold and ivory by Pheidias. It cost an astronomical amount at the time, equivalent to 400 or so of the most expensive warships. The Parthenon is fascinating from an architectural point of view, combining the austere simplicity of the Doric order and the exquisite sophistication of the Ionic order. It is also renowned for its beautiful frieze, perhaps the most famous in the world, which depicts the religious ceremony known as the Panathinea. info Daily 08:00-20:00. Admission Fee: €20. Concessions: €10 (non-E.U. students/ over 65 y.o.) Free admission: E.U. students. Map N7 Akropoli,+302103214172

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The Theatre of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus

The Theatre of Dionysus is one of the most important and oldest theatres of all time: it used to house ancient Athens’s biggest theatre festival, Dionysia, thus the works of the three great dramatists, Ae-

schylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed there. It was the first stone theatre ever built, it could seat 17,000 people and it lays on the South Slope of the rock of the Acropolis. Often confused with the Theatre of Dionysus and also found here is the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, established in 161AD by the Athenian magnate Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife. A favourite summer destination for the Athenians, as it hosts some of the most prestigious performances of the Athens Festival. The roof was destroyed in 267 AD. The amphitheatre was restored in the 1950s, using white marble from the Penteliko Mountain. Many of the buildings found here were converted into Christian monuments during the 5th century AD. The East Slope features the cave of Aglauros, where Athenian youths (ephebes) took an oath to protect the sacred institutions of the city, whereas the North Slope offers the spring of Clepsydra, as well as cave sanctuaries dedicated to the cults of Pan, Zeus and Apollo, the cave with the Mycenaean spring and the sanctuary of Aphrodite and Eros. Map N6, N7 Akropoli

Forum and the Library of Hadrian. The large monuments dating from the Roman era can be found north of the Acropolis and east of the Ancient Agora, in the district of Plaka, in an area of 28,000 sqm. The Roman Forum was built under the supervision of Roman emperor Augustus (19-11 BC) with a donation from himself and Julius Caesar. Hadrian’s Library, constructed by Hadrian as part of an effort to redesign Athens, in 132 AD, was utilized to accommodate the city’s largest library, state archives and philosophy schools. Other important monuments are the Gate of Athena Archegetis and the Water Clock (Horologion) or Tower of the Winds, with sculpted depictions of wind-related deities and an internal water clock, built in the 1st century BC by Macedonian astronomer Andronikos Kyrhestes. Other monuments include the Vespasianae (public latrines), the Agoranomion and the Fethiye Mosque (Tzami) which was built on the ruins of an Early Christian basilica. Map K7 Monastiraki

The Ancient Agora

The “choregos” was the sponsor who paid for the training of the dramatic dance-chorus- and this monument was constructed to commemorate the award of first prize to one of the performances Lysicrates had sponsored. The monument is considered as the first sample of the Corinthian order on the exterior of a building and has been reproduced widely. Map M9 Monastiraki

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The ancient Athenian agora has been excavated by the American School of Classical Studies in Athens since 1931. It is the best-known example of an ancient Greek agora. It was the heart of public life in Athens, a large, open square that acted as forum for social, political, commercial and cultural activity. This is literally the birthplace of Athenian Democracy. According to tradition, the first law court in Europe was at the Areopagus (“rock of Ares”, the god of war), next to the Agora. info Daily 08:00-20:00 Admission Fee: €8. Concessions: €4. Last Admission 19:30. Map L5 Thissio, +302103210185

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Choragic Monument of Lysicrates

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Kerameikos

Small rocky hill where the Athenian Assembly used to gather. It embodied the equal right of anyone to speak about public issues, following the formal address of the officer: “Tís agoreúein voúletai?” “Who wishes to speak?”. Map M4 Akropoli

Northwest of Acropolis, Kerameikos is extended both within and outside the ancient city walls. The area used to be the potters’quarters of the city in ancient times (“keramos” means pottery-clay, from which the English word “ceramic” is also derived). It was also the site of an important cemetery. In modern times, the site houses a museum with the most extensive collection of funereal artifacts in Greece, from urns to jewellery. info Admission Fee: €8. Concessions: €4 Free admission (E.U. students/over 65 y.o./under 18 y.o.). Map I4 Kerameikos, +302103463552

FilopapPou

Temple of Olympian Zeus

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Pnyx (Pnika)

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Green area at the south west of the Acropolis and next to Pnyx. Filopappou also features a monument of the same name, as well as a modern Observatory. The monument is a funerary column erected in 114116AD by the Athenians in honour of Caius Julius Antiochus Filopappous, the exiled prince of the ancient kingdom of Commagene. Map P4 Akropoli ______________________________________________________

The Roman Forum and the Library of Hadrian

After the invasion of the Herulae in A.D. 267 the administrative and commercial centre of the city was transferred from the Ancient Agora to the Roman

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Temple dedicated to Zeus, the king of the Olympian Gods. Upon the beginning of its construction in the 6th century BC, the tyrants Hippias and Hipparchos envisaged the greatest temple of all times. Nevertheless it remained unfinished, until it was completed centuries later, in 132 AD, by the Roman governor Hadrian. Today only fifteen of its 104 col-

Opening Hours! Generally, most archaeological sites open around 08:00 and close around 20:00. If you wish to visit a site in the late afternoon, it is advisable to call and check beforehand.

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 15

Kallimarmaro Stadium

umns are still standing. A sixteenth column lies on the ground, where it fell during a storm in the 19th century. info Mon-Sun 08:00-20:00. Admission Fee: €6. Concessions: €3. Map O10 Akropoli

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Panathenaic staDium

The Stadium of the first Modern Olympic Games and the world symbol of sports in Athens. Also

see more for less Special ticket package: Full: ˆ 30, Concessions: ˆ 15. Valid for 5 days. Valid for: Acropolis of Athens, Ancient Agora of Athens, Archaeological Museum of Kerameikos, Archaeological Site of Lykeion, Hadrian’s Library, Kerameikos, Museum of the Ancient Agora, North slope of Acropolis, Olympieio, Roman Agora of Athens, South Slope of Acropolis. Ask for the special ticket at the Acropolis ticket services, tel +302103214172

16 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Photo Marilia

ou’re when y about out ands, upload n in athefavourite r u o y ts momenm using a r ag on inst hashtag the svoice #athen

known as Kallimarmaro, it is the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble. Also the venue where the Olympic flame handover ceremony takes place before every Olympic Games. A stadium on this site existed since at least the 4th century BC and was used for mystical ceremonies held for the Panathenaic Festival in honour of Athena, goddess of wisdom and patron of the city. During the occupation of Athens by the Romans, governor Hadrian had also constructed a stadium at this exact location, where gladiatorial contests were held for the public. In 1896, it was completely restored with pentelic marble, as an exact replica of the ancient one, with the purpose of hosting the first modern Olympic Games. During the Athens Olympic Games of 2004, it provided the venue for the archery event as well as for the finish of the Marathon Run. Next to the stadium is a beautiful hill, the Arditos Hill, ideal for a walk after a visit to the stadium. There is also a gift shop with special publications and souvenirs. info Admission: €5, Concessions: €2,5 (Students and over 65 y.o.) Map O13 Syntagma/Akropoli, +302107522984-6 ■

Neighbourhoods H

istorical, traditional, popular, rich, poor: Athens’s neighbourhoods come in many kinds and can please everyone.

Anafiotika, Plaka

Monastiraki Thissio

Those neighbouring districts combine the casual popular bars with sites of historical interest. Monastiraki is busy, coulourful, and a bit dirty. A lively place with a lot of tourists and a flea market. Thissio is a favourite promenade, housing many cafés and bars, as well as monuments. The final segment of the pedestrianised Ermou st. leads to the equally busy area of Kerameikos.

Bordered by Ermou St., Philopappou Hill, Ancient Agora.

Plaka

Must see district, maybe the most beautiful and traditional in Athens. It is built in the area immediately surrounding the Hill of Acropolis and is the foremost tourist destination. Picturesque area with small houses and many cafés, almost entirely pedestrianised-thus not accessible by car. Bordered by the

18 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Monastiraki square, under the Acropolis hill

Kolonaki

Traditionally upper class area, both residential and commercial. It’s considered to be one of the richest areas in Athens, and is also a trendy hot spot for politicians, journalists and trendsetters. Bordered by Vassilissis Sofias, Akadimias St. and Lycabettus Hill

Acropolis, Amalias and Mitropoleos st.

Historic centre

Athens moves around the city centre a lot, so its historic centre is busy during the day. Corporate headquarters and many art hubs are found there. To fully experience it you have to walk and gaze at its numerous landmarks and neoclassical buildings. Bordered by Stadiou, Athinas and Ermou St.

Dexameni, Kolonaki

Photo Maria Stamatopoulou

Photo Myrtianna Lambrou/ www.myrtiworld.com

By ELIZA SYNADINOU

Kifissia

An area in Northern Athens which used to be a summerhouse residential area, is now one of the wealthiest neighbourhoods of Athens. Replete with cycling lanes, a pedestrianised centre, impressive mansions, huge shopping centres and parks. (Take the green metro line to the north - terminal station)

Exarchia

Traditionally a hothouse for intellectuals, radicals, artists, youngsters, musicians and bohemian types. A very special, leftish neighbourhood, not very clean but urban, lively, youth-

ridden- it is flooded with vintage and second-hand stores, record stores, eateries and inexpensive hotels. Bordered by Asklipiou, Akadimias & Patission (October 28th) st.

Photo THEODOROS GEORNTAMILISA

Old mansion in Kifissia

Piraeus The necessary spot before visiting the islands, Pireus also embodies a large urban legacy. Its habitants consider themselves living in a completely different city than Athens. Foreign visitors and locals alike enjoy their fish and coffee by the sea here in the romantic little port of Mikrolimano.

Glyfada beach

Glyfada

Trendy summer destination, coastal, roughly 14 km south of the city centre. Posh neighbourhood, which combines beaches, nightlife and shopping. The area also features luxury hotels and four marinas fully equipped for every type of yacht. (Take the tram to Voula from Syntagma sq.)

Tip: when walking around the city, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hesitate to ask a local for advise. Whether you are looking for a cool restaurant or your way to the metro station, Greeks are very eager to give directions. CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 19

reece’s profound connection to history is displayed in numerous museums housing a variety of artifacts from the ancient times to the Byzantine era, most of them located in the city centre. the most prominent of all is the airy glass-and-concrete acropolis museum Building designed By swiss architect Bernard tschumi.

THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

By LENA CHOURMOUZI

The Acropolis Museum an ElEgant host for

thE lEgacy of thE classical grEEk civilization

Located on the ancient road that leads to the Sacred Rock, on which Parthenon rises above Athens, the Acropolis Museum was voted in the top10 of Trip Advisor's travelers’ choice list in 2015, with more than 15.000 reviews. It is only 300 metres away from the Acropolis and approximately two kilometres from Syntagma Square. Flooded with natural light and boasting an incredible view of the original temple, it was also third in the Sunday Times list of the 50 best museums of the world. A modern piece of architecture, it houses

FRIdAy NIGHT AT THe MuSeuM

Every Friday the Acropolis Museum stays open until 22:00 and its restaurant until midnight. Enjoy a special menu with beautiful night views of the Acropolis and great value for money. The restaurant occupies 700 square meter of public terrace and commands a breathtaking view of the historic hills of Athens. A variety of hot dishes based on traditional recipes, seasonally updated are on offer daily.

20 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

more than 20,000 pieces, unearthed during excavations in Athens. If you have a choice avoid rush hours (between 10:00 and 14:00), when the Museum gets flooded with cruise ship passengers and school groups. Always begin the tour of the first floor from the northeast corner to best appreciate the significance of the Acropolis in the Mycenaean Period. info Mon 08:00-16:00, Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun 08:0020:00, Fri 08:00-22:00. Admission Fee: €5. Public entrance from Dionysiou Areopagitou/ Groups from Mitseon. For: the ground floor Shop and Café, the purchase of a ticket is not required. For: the second floor Shop and Restaurant, a free admission ticket is required from the Ticket Desk. Free admission EU students - ID required. Map O8 Akropoli, Dionysiou Areopagitou 15, +302109000900, theacropolismuseum.gr

HISTORICAL National Archaeological Museum

The largest museum in Greece celebrates this year its 150th birthday! Don’t forget to visit the atrium’s garden, recently renovated for the occasion, enriched with 700 plants, many of them referred to in Greek mythology. The museum’s collections include five permanent: the Prehistoric, the Sculptures collection (which demonstrates the development of ancient Greek sculpture form the 7th to the 5th centuries BC), the Vase and Minor objects collection

Photo KATERINA POULIMENOU

MuSeuMS

GReeCe’S RICH HISTORy ON dISpLAy

Photo THANASSIS KARATZAS

ARCAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

(ancient Greek pottery) and the Metallurgy collection (with many fundamental statues). Highlights include the Golden Mask of Agamemnon that was unearthed by H. Schliemann in Mycenae. Latest additions include a 4th century BC gold funerary wreath and 6th century marble statue of a young woman, returned to Greece in 2007 by the Getty Museum in California. The museum is housed in a 8,000 sqm neoclassical building dating back to the end of the nineteenth century, designed by L. Lange and remodeled by Ernst Ziller. It hosts more than 11,000 exhibits. Visitors are advised to devote an entire day or at least 3 to 4 hours to the museum’s vast exhibition space. info Mon-Sun 08:00-20:00. Admission fee: €10. Free admission: Visitors under 19 y.o., students from E.U. countries, admission card holders (Free Entrance Card, Culture Card, ICOM, ICOMOS), journalists, guides, soldiers. Free admission to all visitors in the last weekend of September (European Day of Cultural Heritage) and on Tue 27 September (International Tourism Day). Map C10 Victoria, Patission (28 October) 44, Victoria, +302132144800, namuseum.gr ______________________________________________________

Cycladic Art Museum

Both permanent and temporary exhibitions and approximately 3,000 objects from all phases of Cycladic, Ancient Greek and Cypriot art are housed in the two buildings of this museum, with special emphasis on the Cycladic Art of the 3rd millennium BC. The glass-roofed corridor that connects the modern building of Neofytou Douka street to the restored

19th century neoclassical Stathatos Mansion is a feast for the eyes. info Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:0020:00, Sun 11:00-17:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €7, Mon €3.5. Concessions: Seniors (over 65 y.o.) €3.5 - students 19-26 y. o. €3.5 - groups of 15 or more €5 each. Free admission: Kids and young persons under 18, visitors with disabilities and their companion, archaeologists, archaeology and art history students, members of ICOM, ICOMOS, journalists, qualified guides. Map K14 Syntagma/ Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias & Irodotou 1, Kolonaki, +302107228321-3, cycladic.gr ______________________________________________________

The Byzantine and Christian Museum

Over 25,000 artifacts from between the 3rd and 20th century AD: Early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval, post-Byzantine and later periods. The size and range of the collections and value of the exhibits make the Museum a veritable treasury of Byzantine and postByzantine art and culture. It also houses a conservation department. You can admire reconstructions of parts of early churches, wonderfully preserved mosaic floors and wall paintings. The early Christian ecclesiastical artifacts and icons can offer a foretaste for those eager to make a tour in Athens’s abundant churches. The building was originally the villa of the eccentric French-American philhellene Duchess of Plaisance. Inspired by the Greek War of Independence, she resolved to fund a museum. info Mon-Sun 08:00-20:00. Admission fee: €8. CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 21

The New Benaki Museum

The modern sibling of Benaki Museum is a vast industrial space (8,200 sqm with underground areas of 2,800 sqm and an internal courtyard of 850 sqm. The exhibition halls span 3,000 sqm). It is dedicated to contemporary art and design and has no permanent collections. The Museum gift shop is filled with unique pieces for house design and decoration. The café-restaurant on the ground floor serves a good selection of dishes and is a good place for breakfast. info Thu-Sun 10:00-18:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00. Closed Mon-Tue-Wed. Admission fee: €6-8, students & over 65 €3-4. Free admission: under 22 y.o., disabled. Map K1 Kerameikos, Pireos 138, Rouf, +302103453111

Concessions: €4. Free admission: under 18 y.o. Map K15 Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias 22, Kolonaki, +302132139572, byzantinemuseum.gr ______________________________________________________

The War Museum

A thematic museum with a self-explanatory name. It explores military conflicts, including the Asia Minor campaign, the Balkan Wars, the involvement of Greek forces in Korea and even Cyprus-related conflicts. It features 18th and 19th century swords, handguns and military uniforms. Standout exhibits include the full-scale model of the Daedalus and the fighter planes in front of the entrance. info Tue-Sat 09:00-19:00, Sun 17:00-19:00, Mon closed. Admission fee: €4. Concessions: €2. Free admission: visitors under 19 years old, students from E.U. countries, senior citizens (over 65 y.o.) Map K16 Evangelismos, Rizari 2, Evangelismos, +302107244464 ______________________________________________________ 22 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

CYCLADIC ART MUSEUM

National Historical Museum

Even the building this museum is housed in, is historical: it was once the first Greek House of Parliament. Its trademark is the commanding bronze statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis, located in front of its entrance. The museum trails the history of Greece since the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453 through archival records, photographs, costumes and flags. info Tue-Sun 09:00-14:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €3. Concessions: €1.5 students and senior citizens (+65 y.o.). Free admission: Sun, under 18 y.o. Map J11 Syntagma, Stadiou 13, Syntagma, +302103237617 ______________________________________________________

Numismatic Museum of Athens

One of the oldest public museums in Greece, hosting an enormous collection of coins, medals, as well as gems dating from Classical, Macedonian, Roman and Byzantine eras up to the foundation of the Modern Greek state. The collection is housed in Iliou Melathron, a neoclassical building just off Syntagma square that was built and designed by German architect Ernst Ziller, and which was originally the residence of celebrated archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, the father of Mycenaean and Trojan archaeology. Its name, meaning the Palace of Troy, was associated with the discovery of the ancient city by Schliemann. info Tue-Sun 09:00-16:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €3. Concessions: €2. Lift access for persons with mobility difficulties. Free: under 18 y.o. Map J11 Syntagma, Panepistimiou 12, Syntagma, +303203632057, 2103612834, 2103612872 ______________________________________________________

National Historical Museum

tips Jewish Museum

The main interest of this museum is to provide a vivid picture of Jewish life and culture in a 2,300 years course. The museum displays more than 10,000 artifacts (some of them unique), investigating the Greek Jewish experience in both religious and secular terms, in an area of 800 sqm. info Mon-Fri 09:00-14:30, Sun 10:00-14:00. Closed Sat. Admission fee: €6. Concessions: €3. Guided tours for groups: €50 (upon arrangement) Map L10 Syntagma, Nikis 39, Syntagma, +302103225582

Arts-Galleries Benaki Museum

A major institution and a landmark of the Kolonaki upmarket district, this impressive neoclassical building hosts more than 40,000 items in its permanent collection, illustrating the character of the Greek world through a spectacular historical panorama: from antiquity and the age of Roman domination to 1922, the year the Asian Minor disaster took place. Its founder, Antonis Benakis, belonged to one of the leading families of the Greek diaspora. info Wed-Fri 09:00-17:00, Thu-Sat 09:00-24:00, Sun 09:00-15:00. Closed Mon-Tue. Admission fee: €9. Temporary exhibition: €7. Concessions: €5 over 65 y.o., an adult accompanying a child. Free admission: under 22 y.o. Map K13 Syntagma, Koumbari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki, +302103671000 ______________________________________________________

• Many museums include a virtual tour of their space in their website. It’s better to visit a museum being already prepared, rather than trying to orient yourself in the last minute • Wednesdays are usually the quietest of days to visit any museum in the capital. • Some museums let EU students in for free (others charge half price) and offer concessions for citizens over 65 and under 19. Do not forget your ID. • In general, museums in Greece are cheap, with entrance fees ranging from €5-10.

Herakleidon - Experience in Visual Arts

The museum and its annex consist of two small and beautiful neoclassical buildings that look more like large homes rather than museum spaces. Nowadays the motto of the museum is “Science, Art and Mathematics”– it also focuses in the popularization of science. The exhibition program is loaded with works that play or have played an important role in the evolution of contemporary art. This year, the focus is on the annex which is located in the beautiful Apostolou Pavlou street and do not miss the exhibition of “Contemporary Engraving Art” until 18/9/16. Don’t leave without a visit to the gift shop. It offers a wide selection of collectables that have been inspired by the periodic visual arts exhibitions including M.C. Escher, Constantin Xenakis and Toulouse-Lautrec. info (annex) Tue-Sun 10:0018:00. Mon closed. Admission fee: €5, students & over 65 y.o. Annex: Apostolou Paulou 37, Thissio, +302103461981, herakleidon-art.gr CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 23

Municipal Gallery of Athens

The gallery’s collections feature the visual works of 3,000 artists - most of them Greek, with few exceptions - which are representative of the trends, foreign influences and fruitful discussions which have marked the journey of Greek art. The museum is housed in a neoclassical building, which was abandoned until 1854 and later housed a silk processing plant, a shopping and residential complex, and the headquarters of the Hellenic Police. Of special interest are the drawings of German architect Ernst Ziller, father of neoclassical design in modern Greece. info Tue 10:00-21:00, Wed-Sat 10:00-19:00, Sun 10:00-15:00. Closed Mon. Free admission. Map G4 Metaxourgeio, Leonidou & Mylerou, Metaxourgeio +302103243023 ______________________________________________________

Islamic Art Museum

Collections from as far as India, Persia, Mesopotamia, Asia Minor, the Middle East, Arabia, Egypt, North Africa, Sicily and Spain. The Islamic Art Museum demonstrates more than 8,000 works of art, including ceramics, gold, metalwork, textiles and glass, smaller groupings of bone objects, inscribed funerary steles and weaponry, as well as the marblefaced interior of a reception room from a 17th-century Cairo mansion. Located at Kerameikos district, the Islamic Art Museum offers a break from Classical Athens, temples and amphorae. However, it includes a section of the ancient city wall of Athens and an ancient tomb both uncovered at the level of the houses’ foundations 24 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Photo PETER LAPPAS

Photo CONSTANTINOS TSILAKIS

ADRIAN’S GATE

Industrial Gas Museum

during the preservation works. Don’t leave without a glimpse at the view from its terrace café. info Thu-Fri-Sat-Sun 11:00-19:00. Admission fee: €9. Concessions: €7 Map I5 Thissio, Ag. Asomaton 22 & Dipilou 12, Thissio, +302103251311, benaki.gr

MISCELLANEOUS Ilias Lalaounis - Jewellery Museum

The Museum’s permanent collection includes over 4,000 pieces of jewelry and micro sculptures from over 50 collections designed by the museum’s founder, Ilias Lalaounis, between 1940 and 2000. Lalaounis is the country’s most internationally renowned artist and jeweler. The permanent collection is enriched with donations including jewelry and decorative arts from around the world. The museum is a private non-profit organisation devoted to the historical development of the art of jewellery. Big spenders usually head straight to the shop for 24K gifts. info Tue-Sat: 09:00-15:00, Sun: 11:00-16:00. Closed Mon. Admission fee: €5. Concessions: €4 for students, senior citizens and groups. Free admission every Saturday (except for special tours). Map O7 Akropoli, Karyatidon & Kalisperi 12, Plaka +302109221044, lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr ______________________________________________________

Museum of Greek Folk Art

A treasure trove of Greek folk embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes and household items. The high-

Photo CONSTANTINOS TSILAKIS

light is on the first floor: a reconstructed room from a house on the island of Lesvos with a series of murals by folk artist Theofilos. For pompom shoes (tsarouchia) aficionados, this museum is a paradise. info Mon-Sun: 08:00-15:00. Closed Tue. Admission fee: €2. Concessions: €1 students from E.U. countries, senior citizens from E.U. Free admission: Persons under 19, EU students, classical studies and Art students. Map M10 Akropoli, 22 Panos str., Plaka, +302103229031, melt.gr ______________________________________________________

Museum of Ancient Agora

A small museum – it is advised to avoid rush hours so it will not be crowded. Housed in the renovated Stoa of Attalos within the archaeological site of the Ancient Agora. Its collection mainly consists of findings from wells, deposits, burials, workshops and sanctuaries. The highlights include art dating all the way back to the stone age, every-day life objects, and artifacts directly related to the Athenian democratic functions during the Classical period. It is also the place where in 2003 the Treaty of the European Union enlargement was signed. info Everyday: 08:00-20:00. Last admission: 19:30. Admission fee: €8. Concessions: €4. Free admission: EU students, persons under 18 Map K6 Monastiraki/ Thissio, Adrianou 24, Thissio, +302103210185 ______________________________________________________

Industrial Gas Museum

Housed in an industrial heritage building that sup-

STOA ATTALOU

tips • It's worth visiting the Greek National Tourism Information Office (Areopagitou 18-20, just opposite the Acropolis Museum entrance), for info on opening hours, entrance fees and events. • Some museums remain closed on Mon. or Tue. • In July and August the mercury can soar to 40ºC (over 100 F). Therefore, it’s always better to pay your visits in the early hours of the day. You will surely find no queues, and it’s the safest way to avoid getting sunstroke.

plied energy and lighting in the Athens metropolitan area for 130 years. It opened its doors in 2013, in the site where the Technopolis of Athens is now located, approximately 30 years after the Athens gasworks permanently closed down. Visitors have the opportunity to tour the plant’s facilities, observe the coal gas production line and discover a forgotten part of the history of Athens. The exhibits include a rich collection of photographs and archive material as well as audiovisual material, including short films and recorded interviews of factory workers and residents of the area. The collection is further enriched with items from the factory itself as well as interactive applications. It is the first industrial museum in Athens. info Tue-Sun: 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Last admission: 17:00. Admission fee: €1. Map J1 Kerameikos, Pireos 100, Kerameikos, +302103475518, technopolis-athens.com ■ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 25

CULTURE A

Art In Athens: except for the AncIent mAsterpIeces, In Athens you cAn ApprecIAte exceptIonAl contemporAry Art As well!

By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

imagine a palm tree

aphF 2016

the equilibrists

ai WeiWei

Contemporary print art

Athens Photo Festival 2016. The leading international festival of photography at the Benaki Museum

Exploring critical issues relevant to our times, this year’s programme works within an international, national and local context, encompassing a variety of exhibitions and activities designed to reflect the diversity of contemporary photography and to create opportunities for exchange of ideas, artistic expression and international engagement.INFO Until 31 July. Thu&Sun 10:00-18:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-22:00. Mon closed. Pireos St. Annexe, 138 Pireos & Andronikou St., +302103453111, benaki.gr ______________________________________________________

Ai Weiwei for the first time in Greece by The Museum of Cycladic Art

The Museum of Cycladic Art (MCA) in Athens unveils Ai Weiwei at Cycladic, the artist’s first major exhibition in Greece which includes a new artwork that responds to the museum’s collection. Significant works by the Chinese artist are displayed among the museum’s renowned permanent collection. The exhibition looks at his recurring use of particular materials which draw parallels with Greek counterparts, such as wood and marble. In a personal interpretation of Cycladic art, Ai has augmented the scale, thus transforming the modest Cycladic figurine into a towering deity. INFO Until 30 October 2016. Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-17:00. Tue closed. Admission: €7. Museum of Cycladic Art (MCA) 4, Neofytou Douka str. / Vas. Sofias & Irodotou 1, +302107228321-3, cycladic.gr ______________________________________________________

What comes after Europe?

Jonas Staal’s exhibition “After Europe” looks for answers @ State of Concept

After Europe is the first Greek solo exhibition of Dutch visual artist Jonas Staal, curated by iLiana Fokianaki. The exhibition After Europe centers on the current political, economic, and humanitarian crises in Europe. Rejecting both the existing managerial and corporate policies of the EU as well as the rise of ultranationalist parties all over the continent, Staal proposes art as a space to criticize and rethink the idea of the political union. The first part of the exhibition consists of the artistic and political organization New World Summit, which the artist founded in 2012 and since then has developed by creating “alternative parliaments” for stateless and blacklisted political organizations. The second part consists of Staal’s New Unions, the beginning of a new long-term project shown for the first time.INFO Until 7 October. Wed- Fri 16:3020:30, Sat 13:00-17:00 or by appointment. State of Concept, Tousa Botsari 19, +302130318576, stateofconcept.org/ ______________________________________________________

Do you know about the Palm Trees of Athens?

“Imagine A Palm Tree” by Navine G. KhanDossos @ Benaki Museum of Islamic Art

Since arriving in Athens in September 2015, Navine G. Khan-Dossos has heard a curious story, told and

retold in different ways. It is about the removal of the palm trees from the urban landscape of Athens as a way of visually “re-orientating” the city towards Europe rather than the “Orien”. Imagine a Palm Tree is a performance of painting open for visitors of the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art to watch and interact with. INFO Until 25 September. Thu-Sun 11:0019:00. Mon-Wed closed. Full admission: € 9. Athens Benaki Museum, Kerameikos Building Complex: Museum of Islamic Art, 22 Ag. Asomaton & 12 Dipilou St.,+302103251311, benaki.gr ______________________________________________________

Contemporary Print Art from Athens @ Museum Herakleidon

A group exhibition dedicated to the art of contemporary printmaking, seen through the work of eight artists who live and work in Athens, Greece. This exhibition is organized in collaboration with the Athens School of Fine Arts (curator: Michalis Arfaras, director of the Printmaking department) and the Culture, Sports and Youth Organization of the City of Athens.“This exhibition constitutes a tribute to the handmade relief print, the true mother of the imprint processes and the magic woven by this old but yet so modern artistic expression” notes the curator Michalis Arfaras”. INFO Until 18 Semptember. Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00. Mon closed. General admission: €5. Guided tours: €6 per person, Museum Herakleidon Annex 37, Ap. Pavlou Str., Thissio,Thissio Rail Station, herakleidon-art.gr/ ______________________________________________________

The Equilibrists @ Benaki Museum

A project organized by the New Museum, New York and the DESTE Foundation, Athens in collaboration with the Benaki Museum, Athens, on the occasion of DESTE’s 33rd anniversary. The exhibition is curated by Gary Carrion-Murayari and Helga Christoffersen with Massimiliano Gioni. The Equilibrists brings together work by a new generation of young Greek and Cypriot artists working in Athens and abroad. The 33 artists and collaborations in the exhibition have adopted radically diverse approaches towards reflecting and engaging with the world around them. Working across painting, sculpture, drawing, film & video, and performance, the artists capture the fragility of the present moment through a shared approach to materiality. INFO Until 9 October. Tue, Sun 10:00-18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00. Mon-Wed closed. General admission: €8. Benaki Museum Pireos Annex, Pireos 138, benaki.gr. Closed in August. ■

Anemi Jazz Festival in Folegandros

If you happen to be in the small, picturesque island of Folegandros from 28 to 30/7, make sure not to miss Anemi Jazz Festival, in which Greek musicians from the jazz scene as well as famous djs will perform in three very special events. In Anemi hotel & Pounta, Chora. CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 29

Athens Epidaurus Festival 2016

Contemporary trends in theatre, music and dance meet two of the world’s most ancient and significant theatres as well as other venues of artistic interest, in Greece’s annual celebration of the Arts.

THEATRE

State Theatre of Northern Greece- Cezaris Graužinis, Seven Against

Thebes by Aeschylus When his horrific deeds are revealed, Oedipus leaves the throne to his two sons, Eteocles and Polynices, who agree to alternate as rulers of Thebes. However, when the time comes for Polynices to take his turn as king, Eteocles does not keep his promise. With English surtitles. INFO 22-23.07/21.00/ Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus

Onassis Cultural Centre-Nikos Karathanos, The Birds by Aristophanes A production of Aristophanes’ The Birds (414 BC), directed by Nikos Karathanos. A group of artists bids goodbye to fear, bursting with love at the words of a poet who is ‘not ashamed of anything’. English surtitles. INFO 19-20.08/21.00/ Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus The Little Things Orchestra- The

Massacre at Paris by Christopher Marlowe The production uses the play’s fast-moving, almost cinematic, plot to bring out the poetry behind the action and focuses on the endless cycle of violence through its movement and music. INFO 18-19.07/21.00/ Peiraios 260, D

MUSIC

Kyklos Ensemble- On the verge of Ro-

manticism The Kyklos Ensemble continue their aesthetic explorations with performances of works which were destined to have a decisive impact on how aspects of 20th-century music would develop. INFO 25-26.07/21.00/ Megaron, The Athens Concert Hall, “Dimitris Mitropoulos” Hall

Greek National Opera- Carmen By Georges Bizet One of the most emblematic of all French operas, Carmen is as provocative today as when it was first performed 140 years ago. The gypsy heroine defends her freedom and her right to choose her lovers and not to be chosen by them. Conducted by Loukas Karytinos, with the Orchestra, Chorus, Ballet and Children’s Chorus of the Greek National Opera. INFO 24,26-27,29/07/21.00/ Odeon of Herodes Atticus

30 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

➊ Kyklos Ensemble-On the verge of Romanticism ➋ The Little Things Orchestra, The Massacre at Paris by Christopher Marlowe ➌ State Theatre of Northern Greece - Cezaris Graužinis, Seven Against Thebes by Aeschylus ➍ Greek National Opera: Carmen By Georges Bizet ➎ Nikos Karathanos, The Birds by Aristophanes

TICKETS INFO

– Credit Card Bookings via greekfestival.gr. – The Athens and Epidaurus Festival Box Office: 39 Panepistimiou Str. Mon-Fri 9:0017:00, Sat: 09:0015:00 – Event venues: the box office opens two hours before the sched-

uled performance. -Credit Card Telephone Booking Telephone Booking Centre: +302103272000 | Mon-Sun: 9:0021:00 -You can also buy tickets in the following shops: Public, Reload, Evripidis bookshop

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 31

t Don’s mis out

a night with aristophanes in the ancient theatre of e epiDaurus

he comedy “ΤΗΕ Birds” Brought on stage this summer By one of the Best greek directors and a great cast

Galini Hatzipashali

Natassa Bofiliou

32 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Where would you like to live? What is it that you want? And finally... What do you want? These are the basic elements of the ancient comedy The Birds by the famous playwright Aristophanes that will be pre presented this summer in the Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus. For only two nights, 19th and 20th August, a remarkable group of actors bids farewell to fear, bursting with love at the words of a poet who is “not ashamed direcof anything”. Performing under the direc tion of the well acclaimed director Nick Karathanos, great actors give their best as part of the Athens and Epidaurus Festival with the support of The Onassis Cultural Centre. The experience of watching a play live in Epidaurus is definitely a unique experience and this production/feast of the senses, rooted in the unsurpassable poetic power of this remarkable comedy, is a must see for sure. It is worth to get to know an authentic story that is more than comedy. The Birds, the most comical version of Aristophanes’ plays is, “perhaps the first work of utopian literature we have”, said once the reporter, writer and scholar of Aristophanes’ work, Stathis Dromazos. In one sentence this is a story about flanking the human need to fly free, to create a new world based on true desires. So this summer follow the Birds to find your way as the hoopoe, the nightingale, the cuckoo, the hawk, the goldfinch and the heron approach. They are always on hand since 414 BC and this year they felt again like joining the audience for their show. They tell the story of two friends who are desperately looking for utopia in the country of “Nubicuculia”. They leave Athens to seek a new home “soft and plump like a feather mattress, or like a baby’s tummy”. Finally, they find refuge in the country of their dreams, the land of birds, and are

pHOTO: NIKOLAS MASTORAS, ARTWORK: BEETROOT

By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

Alexandra Aidini emily Koliandri

thrown all together with enthusiasm to build a wall up in the sky to stop the communication between gods and humans. Imagination and reality, human, gods and animals come together in a world that has the seriousness of a game, the fluidity of a dream, and the sweet melancholy of life. This is a production that aims at a clear approach of Aristophanes, wishing for the poetry of the leading comedian of Attica to be heard and loved anew. A theatre group “that wants to fly, while falling”, seeking, daring, and confronting “an elusive happiness, so big that cannot be uttered or thought of”. Do not miss the opportunity to admire this festival of joy, with the following artists: Alexandra Aidini, Aliki Alexandraki, Maria Diakopanagiotou, Vassiliki Driva, Nikos Karathanos, Emily Koliandri, Giannis Kotsifas, Ektoras Liatsos, Christos Loulis, Fotini Baxevani, Konstantinos Mpimpis, Angelos Papademetriou, Foivos Rimenas, Michalis Sarantis, Aris Servetalis, Aggelos Triantafyllou, Galini Chatzipaschali, Giannis Sevdikalis, Grigoria Metheniti, Natassa Bofiliou.

info

Giannis sevdikalis

AristopHANes’

“tHe Birds”

19-20 AuGust 2016,

21:00, ANcieNt tHeAtre of epidAurus, WitH eNGlisH suBtitles sgt.gr

Aristophanes’ “The Birds”. Translation: Giannis Asteris. Direction: Nikos Karathanos. Production: Onassis Cultural Centre - Athens.

Konstantinos Mpimpis

TickeTs

€45-10, (Reduced) €15, €5. Special fees for groups: -10% 11-20 persons, -20% 21+ persons. Info & tickets: 2103272000. Group reservations and transportation: +302130178066, +302103222720, ornithes@sgt.gr

christos Loulis

Main Box office

39 Panepistimiou Str. (inside Pesmazoglou Arcade), Map H10 Panepistimio. Monday to Friday: 9:0017:00 | Saturday: 9:00-15:00. Ancient Theatre of Epidaurus Box Office. Argolis Prefecture, Peloponnese. Monday to Thursday: 9:00-19:00 | Friday to Saturday: 9:00-21:00

Aris servetalis

A-LIVE

JULY

Lana Del Rey 19/7 Rockwave Festival @ Terra Vibe Park The enigmatic singer born Elizabeth Woolridge Grant, will travel in a wavy 50s style from the lo-fi breakthrough single “Video By GEORGE DIMITRAKOPOULOS Games” to her 4th collection of new shining material entitled ouldn’t it be nice to watch your favorite art- Honeymoon, with a full band ist live during your stay in Athens? Rangalong with the Californian ing from a big variety of music genres this Allah-Las, the local music acts summer’s live agenda is full of stars. Check out this Iratus, and Daphne & the Fuzz. updated live guide in chronological order and match 19/7 The Budos Band @ Gagarin 205 The instrumenyour music date! From Lana Del Rey to Muse, here tal combo from the fine Dapare Athens’ best events this summer. tone Records roster, started with an afrobeat vibe and recently moved to a psychedelic spirit which rocks their new record “Burnt Offering”. 20/7 Scorpions @ Plateia Nerou If you are “still loving” Bolivar Beach Scorpions, you have to know Bar Poseidonos that Germany’s most successAvenue, Akti tou ful classic rock band will be Iliou, Kalamaki coming to Athens for their 50th +30 6980392325 Anniversary Tour. Cariocas Beach 20/7 Chico Trujillo @ Schinos, Loutraki Technopolis A Chilean cumbia band merging cumbia, Gagarin 205, ska, reggae and rock in a crazy Liosion 205, combination. Attiki +302114112500 23/7 Ejekt Festival @ Plateia Nerou The most exciting Piraeus Academy live act in the world is set to Kerameikos, play in Athens on 23th July. Pireos 117, The British rock band Muse +302108820426 headline Ejekt Festival and Plateia Nerou you have many reasons to be Leof. Poseidonos entertained by their relent& Leof.Siggrou, Kallithea

IN ATHENS

V E NUE S

Lana Del Rey

(30/8-5/9) 1st Odyssia Festival @ Cariocas Beach Odyssia Festival is a 7-day electronic music festival that presents a staggering line-up with over 60 DJs playing at the magical secluded bay of Schinos, just one-hour drive from Athens. Inspired from Homer’s epic poem “Odyssey”, this unique music celebration travels around 18 hour daily partying on both land and sea. Performance art and installations, traditional food and drinks, make a mosaic of activities that offer a complete holiday and entertainment experience. Among the selected 34 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

SEPTEMBER

2/9 LP (Laura Pergolizzi) @ Technopoils L.P. is a poprock singer from New York with a powerful melodic voice, having released three albums before her recent single “Lost On You” played in rotation. 7/9 Eagles of Death Metal @ Piraeus Academy Despite their name, Eagles of Death Metal is not a death metal band. Formed in 1998 by best friends Jesse Hughes and Josh Homme, they have already launched their first extensive tour since the Paris terror attacks last November. 10/9 Marky Ramone @ Piraeus Academy The legendary drummer and his cover/tribute band playing Ramones classics. Hey ho… 30/9 Saint Etienne @ Gagarin 205 22 years after their masterpiece Tiger Bay, the Croydon trio have already rewritten the rules of alternative dance suggesting their own unique take on what pop means.

DISCOVER THE LOCAL SCENE @TECHNOPOLIS

Votanikos Stage Kassandras 23 (Iera Odos Ave. & Sp. Patsi), Votanikos, +302103473835

CLUBBING

less energy and sensational spectacle. 28/7 Ana Tijoux @ Piraeus Academy Emerging from Womex 2015 in Budapest, Ana Tijoux is Latin America’s foremost female MC equally inspired by classic hip-hop, the great South American songwriters and deep Latin roots.

Five of the most creative Greek artists present their work at the beautiful open air space of Technopolis at Gazi( Kerameikos). A unique chance to get updated with the contemporary local music scene ranging from rock and electronic to Greek tradition – always with a twist-that you will definitely find unique. 8/9 Pavlos Pavlidis _ 9/9 K Bhta _ 12/9 Giannis Aggelakas 14/9 Thanasis Papakonstantinou _ 19/9 Sokratis Malamas

DJs and producers you ‘ll find some key players on the dance scene right now like Gilles Peterson, DJ Harvey, Body & Soul (Francois K, Joe Claussell, Danny Krivit) celebrating their 20th Anniversary with a10 hours set, Benji B, Kyle Hall, Vakula, Midland and Maurice Fulton.

4 CLUB NIGHTS @ BOLIVAR BEACH BAR

18/7 Steve Aoki Superstar DJ Steve Aoki for a special live performance full of energy and frenic beats. 22/7 Finnebassen Dirty melancholic

house music, is the product of musical soul searching, for the emerging Norwegian producer Finnebassen. 5 /8 Paul Oakenfold One of the world’s leading DJ and remixers still on a trance mission. 26/8 Louie Vega The mastermind of house “Little” Louie Vega playing his soulful afro beats, latin and jazz rhythms with his unique taste. 24/9 Nina Kraviz @ Gazi Music Hall Russian techno DJ and an accomplished producer, she is one of dance music’s breakthrough names of the last years.

ATHENS

ON THE MOVE

tour around athens can be a challenging experience without guidance. where does one begin? hop on the city sightseeing bus and get started! The City sightseeing tours provide the perfect way to see all the best sights and attractions in each city. The Athens and Piraeus Lines operate daily and interchange at the Acropolis every 30 minutes. Each tour has a commentary in eleven languages that traces the history and culture of Athens. You can Hop On Hop Off from any one of the 27 stops as many times as you wish. The buses run every 30 minutes. The Beach-Riviera Line takes 90 minutes return and passes along the scenic seaside road, stopping at 3 beaches; Agios Kosmas Beach, Asteria Glyfada Beach, and Akti Vouliagmeni Beach. The tour ends at the famous Vouliagmeni Spa Lake, a warm water lake with health benefits. The city sightseeing open top red bus tours operate daily every 30 minutes, from 08:30 until 21:00. The terminal in Athens is on Syntagma square, and in Piraeus is right outside the main cruise ship terminal. It takes 90 minutes for the Athens and 70 minutes for the Piraeus tour. Passengers can hop off at any bus stop and then rejoin the next buses. City sightseeing –Athens and Piraeus– is a member of a famous global brand, an easily recognizable banner, one which ensures customers tours of quality and excellence worldwide.

TickeTs include ● Free wifi ● 2 Free walking tours daily ● 1 Free photo tour daily ● 10% Discount on any city sightseeing world wide by presenting your ticket ● Safety seat belts ● Luxury brochures with a detailed map and useful travelers’ tips ● A free poncho in the rare case of rain ● Reductions to several private museums and various shops by presenting our bus ticket ● Innovative multi-lingual commentary in 11 languages ● Friendly professional and multi-lingual staff ● City sightseeing -a global brand- offering passengers discounted tickets worldwide and internet bookings via the cs website or with partners. ■

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 35

GREEN LIFE A

THENS CAN GET REALLY HOT DURING THE SUMMER. THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT SOME OF THE BEST PLACES TO CHILL OUT DURING A WARM DAY ARE LOCATED IN MUSEUM YARDS SO YOU CAN COMBINE SOME MOMENTS OF RELAXATION IN A SHADY GARDEN WITH AN ARTY VISIT.

THE ACROPOLIS MUSEUM

By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI, ELISA SINADINOU

Café at the Kerameikos Building Complex (Museum of Islamic Art)

The fresco in this colourful and lively atrium is handcrafted by Navine G. Khan-Dossos, an artist who drew inspiration from Athens’s palm trees. A feelgood environment, perfect for a quick coffee break. INFO Thu, Fri, Sun 11.00-19.00, Sat 11.00-23.00 Map I4 Thissio, Ag.Asomaton 22 & Dipilou, Monastiraki, +302103251311, benaki.gr ______________________________________________________

Numismatic Museum of Athens

One of the best atmospheres in town, a shady, green yard with replicas of ancient statues and a cozy old-fashioned café. You won’t believe how quiet this place is, given that it is located right on the very busy Panepistimiou Avenue. The café offers beverages, salads etc. Every Thursday night there is a jazz live. INFO Mon-Sun 09:00-24:00. Map J11 Syntagma, Panepistimiou 12, Syntagma, +302103610067 ______________________________________________________

Cycladic Café

Modern secret garden right in the heart of Athens, the café-restaurant of the Cycladic Art Museum is ideal for a break with a touch of Mediterranean cuisine. INFO Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:0020:00, Sun 11:00-17:00 Free WiFi. Map K15 Evangelismos, Neofytou Douka 4, Kolonaki, +302107228321-3 ______________________________________________________

Benaki Museum Café

A meeting point for the cultural crowds, one of the most popular museum cafés of Athens, known for its beautiful bougainvilleas and its terrace with a truly remarkable view. Promises unforgettable romantic 36 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

afternoons with a view of the Acropolis.

INFO Wed & Fri 21:00-17:00, Thu & Sat 09:00-

24:00, Sun 09:00-15:00. Closed on Mon-Tue Map K15 Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias & Koumpari 1, Kolonaki, +302103671000 ______________________________________________________

Byzantine and Christian Museum Café

A maximalistic choice, located in the glorious villa of the Duchess of Plaisance which now houses the Byzantine Museum. Coffee, sweets, hot dishes and a noise-free environment. INFO Mon-Tue, Sun 08:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 09:0024:00. Map K15 Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias 22, Kolonaki, +302110120441 ______________________________________________________

Café of the National Archaeological Museum

The largest Museum in Greece celebrates its 150 years with a full renovation of its Atrium, inside which is located this café. It now houses 700 new plants referred to in Greek Mythology, so it offers a great combination of an Ancient Greece flavour with some exhibits of botanical interest. INFO Mon-Sun 08:00-20:00. Victoria,Patission 44 , Victoria, +302132144891 ______________________________________________________

Dexameni

A real Athenian choice. All day restaurant-café, the place to be if you want to chill while watching posh passers-by. This café is one of the oldest hangouts of the Greek intellectual scene, a landmark of the Kolonaki district. INFO Mon-Sun 10:00-01:00. Map I15 Evangelismos, Dexamenis Sq, Kolonaki, +302107224609

Photo THANASSIS KARATZAS

HIDDEN SPOTS FOR THE NECESSARY BREATHS OF FRESH AIR

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National Garden Café

The National Garden is a vast green area with a huge history. Inside its premises, you will find one of the most original old-fashioned Greek cafés, a picturesque scenery ideal for very warm days, as the temperature there is comfortably lower than in the city centre. INFO Open from 09:00 to sunset. Map N12 Syntagma, National Gardens, Syntagma, +302107232820 ______________________________________________________

Parko Eleftherias

A proper getaway in a green scenery, this romantic restaurant-café offers delicious modern Greek cuisine along with cocktails and the privilege of its location, which is much greener than most of the city’s other meeting points. INFO Mon-Sun 10:00-01:30. Map H21 Megaro Moussikis, Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki, +302107223784

BENAKI MUSEUM CAFÉ

STAY COOL & FIND YOUR PARK Beyond all expectations, Athens has green places and many decent parks that may surprise you with their size and beauty. Press pause on intense sightseeing and enjoy secret gardens, hills and many outdoor spaces where green is the only colour around.

NUMISMATIC MUSEUM OF ATHENS

The National Garden

There was a time when Greece had actually its own Royal family. Before doing some research in Greek History, take the time to visit the National Garden, designed and created by Queen Amalia in the 19th century. An earthy heaven right in the centre of Athens with meandering bench-laden paths, cool trees and popular ponds, that make it a favourite stroll for everyone. For the garden aficionados, there is also a Botanical Museum, while for the little ones (or those young at heart), there is a Childrens’ Museum. Map L12 Syntagma ______________________________________________________

Zappeion Garden

The place where most Athenians spent the Sundays of their childhood. Situated right next to the National Garden, it is actually its extension, Zappeion Garden generously provides a serene getaway from the hustle and bustle. Take a walk among wonderfully crafted statues, enjoy hidden green corners and don’t miss out on the acclaimed café and restaurant as you move further into its paths. Map N11 Syntagma ______________________________________________________

icated botanic section with pharmaceutical plants. Many university students choose this garden for their summer concerts. INFO 08:00-20:00, Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00 Iera Odos 403, Votanikos ______________________________________________________

Botanical Garden - Diomidous Gardens

Lycabettus Hill

A designated wildlife sanctuary with an overwhelming abundance of flora (more than 3,000) extending over a vast area of 1,800 hectares in Athens’s western suburbs. Overseeing Korydallos, Dafni and Agia Varvara regions, Botanical Garden forms a lovely, invigorating scenic stroll. Within its expansive serene grounds, you can find numerous kinds of plants, some of which are exceedingly rare, as well as a ded-

AETHRION AT CYCLADIC ART MUSEUM

If you choose to get there on foot, reaching the top can turn into quite an adventure. The strenuous but rewarding walk to the summit via the stairs was built by the “Union of Forest Friends” between 1908 and 1918. Walking through the existing path, you will take breaths of fresh air whilst passing under the pine trees on the side, ideal habitat for dozens of bird species. If walking is not your thing, there is always the option of CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 37

Photo KATERINA POULIMENOU ZAPPEION GARDEN

the funicular or even the car. Park somewhere over the hill or enjoy the excellent views to the entire city and the Saronic Gulf from the funicular. The most popular attraction of Lycabettus is the small gleaming-white picturesque church of Saint George. Get there and find yourself on one of the most popular spots in the postcards of Athens! Map F16, Evangelismos ______________________________________________________

Pedion tou Areos

Recently renovated and despite its infamous side, Pedion to Areos is worth a visit as it is a historical park, one of the oldest in Athens. Located within easy walking distance from the National Archaeological Museum, it’s a good choice for a walk in the daytime, but not as attractive after dark. Its expansive tree-lined vistas are excellent for a pleasant stroll while admiring the numerous impressive statues of Greek heroes of the War of Independence. Map A11 ______________________________________________________

Philopappou Hill

A trip straight back to the ancient times. Visit one of the most beautiful hills of Athens, close to the Acropolis, and step on the rocks where in the past (since the 5th century B.C.) great Greek statemen, generals and orators –such as Themistocles, Aristides, Pericles and Demosthenes– used to address the public. Known at the time as the Hill of the Muses, the hill forms a green area south west of the Acropolis with great views to the Parthenon, the whole city of AthANTONIS TRITSIS PARK

ens and the Aegean Sea that surrounds Attica. In 115 AD, a monument dedicated to the exiled Roman Prince Gaius Julius Antichus Philopappos of Commagene was erected on top of the hill, giving the it its current name “Philopappos”. Map O5 Akropoli ______________________________________________________

Akademia Platonos

A significant cultural centre of Athens in ancient times, Akademia Platonos or “Plato’s Academy” is the place where philosopher Plato taught his disciples back on 5th century BC. These days, it is an oasis of green filled with monuments, ideal for strolls and picnics. It is a favourite among youngsters who often gather there for parties, feasts and festivities. It also houses the “Cooperative Café”, a hangout for more alternative crowds, offering mezedes and rakomelo. Map E2 ______________________________________________________

Antonis Tritsis

Located away from the city centre, it may be not so easy to reach, but if you love parks and green spaces it’s a definite a must see. Described as “Park of Environmental Information and Sensitization”, this sprawling expanse of green in the area of Ilion, stays open 24/7, whilst promoting many ecological activities. Groups of volunteers organize very frequent cleanings in all areas of the park making it a constant delight for little children, who come to play with horses and donkeys (it also includes a riding centre). ______________________________________________________

Garden of the Athens Concert Hall (Megaron)

Culture found its ultimate shelter right on its doorstep. Megaron Concert Hall is among the best cultural places of the country and its garden is the perfect place to enjoy art. An oasis of green in the heart of the city, it hosts many cultural events in the summer, and enjoying a concert while lying on its grass is a must-do. Map E21 Megaro Moussikis, Vasilissis Sofias & Kokkali ______________________________________________________

RUN

FAMILY Discover Athens with your kids By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

5 ROUTES TO JOG IN THE CITY

Allou! Fun Park

The largest amusement park in Greece covering 40,000 sqm. The youngest ones love the fairytale land of Kidom with its most enchanting carousels and surprises. Things get tough for 12 to... 99 year old kids in the Adrenaline Zone, the Shock Tower (a screaminducing 40-metre fall experience) or in the House of Fear where terror resides permanently. Enjoy! INFO Mon-Fri 17:00-23:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-24:00. Access: Bus No Γ18, B18, 500, 790, & trolley /Bus No2 from Omonia. Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Rentis, +302108092800, allou.gr ______________________________________________________

Attica Zoological Park

A unique educational and entertaining destination, for families and people of all ages. Only 20mins from the city centre, you will be able to admire more than 2,000 animals, such as dolphins, lions, giraffes, monkeys, tigers, bears, penguins, parrots and many more.Shows and educational programs are held daily. INFO Open 365 days a year, from 9:00 am until sunset (last entrance 1hr before sunset). Access: Bus No 319 from DoukissisPlakentias, enery 35. Bus stop: Spata City Hall. Yalou, Spata, +302106634724-5, atticapark.com/zoo ______________________________________________________

Hellenic Children’s Museum

Learning can be fun! Or so parents and teachers say. But in this historic three-storey neoclassical building of Athens they actually mean it. It is the country’s only multi-thematic, interactive museum specially designed for children. INFO Tue-Fri 10:00-14:00 /Sat -Sun 10:00 -15:00. Free admission. Kidathinaion 14, Plaka, +302103312995, hcm.gr (Closed Aug) ______________________________________________________

Hellenic Cosmos Cultural Centre

A state of the art cultural centre for those looking for a highly educational experience. It is also home to Tholos, a dome-shaped theatre where you can currently take virtual tours of the Ancient Athenian Agora. Educational Fun for everyone. INFO Tue-Fri & Sun 10:00-15:00 / Closed Mon & Sat. Access: Bus No 049 & 914, from Omonia/ Bus stop: ΑΣΚΤ and Overground train (ISAP) to Piraeus until Kallithea station. Pireos 254, +302122540000, hellenic-cosmos.gr ______________________________________________________

The Goulandris Museum of Natural History A museum that offers an extensive collection of zoological, botanical, entomological, geological and palaeontological exhibits with many interactive displays and audiovisual performances. Its ultra-modern facility, the Gaea Centre, showcases the natural sciences and the evolution of the planets. INFO Tue-Fri 09:00-14:30/ Sat-Sun 10:00-15:00 Levidou 13 & Othonos, Kifissia, +302108015870 ■

EAR IN MIND THAT IN ATHENS, DURING THE SUMMER, THE TEMPERATURE RISES WELL ABOVE 30°. CONSIDER RUNNING BEFORE 10:00 OR AFTER 20:00. By ELISA SINADINOU

NATIONAL GARDEN The National Garden (ex Royal Garden): With a temperature that is up to 5 °C lower compared to the rest of the city, the vast area full of trees, lakes, flowers, is the ideal city running route. It is open from dusk until dawn and has 4 main entrances – Leoforos Amalias, Vasilissis Sofias Avenue, Herodou Attikou Street, Zappeion.

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IMITTOS MOUNTAIN

Breathtaking view of the city and Pireus and peace of mind. You can access Imittos from Kaissariani.

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SYGGROU FOREST If you stay in Northern Athens, try Syggrou Forest, a quiet place where a lot of people walk their dogs off leash. It is open from sunrise to sunset each day. Its main entrance is located in Kifissias Avenue.

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DIONISSIOU AEROPAGITOU STREET

For a run combined with sightseeing, and if you are fit enough for an uphill running, try Dionissiou Aeropagitou Street. You can run all the way up to the Acropolis, or continue straight in Apostolou Pavlou street and end up in the famous neighbourhood of Thisseion.

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FALIRO

For a run with a view to the sea, try the coastline route. Take the tram towards Faliro, pick a stop that suits you and... start jogging. ■ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 39

shopping

athenian style

rom ancient-looking sandals to modern fashion, athens can satisfy all your shopping instincts. there are shops for every taste and budget. be on the lookout for special offers and discounts, which are frequent and can come on sale seasons as well as on demand.

international brands balenciaga

Bright, minimal boutique with small wonders. Map I13 Evangelismos, Tsakalof 28, Kolonaki, +302107290151 ______________________________________________________

enny di Monaco

i-d ConCept store

A bright world of items unfolds in front of those who love style and modern aesthetics. Amazing jewelry, created by the most famous Greek and foreign designers, but also costume jewelry (these pieces that spice up your everyday outfits). Watches for collectors but also more affordable ones. Colognes and perfumes you won’t find elsewhere, glasses in a very wide range, men's and women's accessories, candles, cashmere sweaters and shirts in the right price, coats, jackets. Don’t miss out on the bags: the big collection includes avant garde designs and more casual suggestions for every taste. Map J13 Evangelismos, 12 Kanari Street, Kolonaki, +302103221801

Mugler, Louboutin, Nina Ricci, Zac Posen... shall we say more? Map J 15 Evangelismos, Herodotou 23, Kolonaki, +302107290805/ Tria Pigadia, Mykonos, +302289077100 ______________________________________________________

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Favela dress Code

gucci

Colourful funky clothes and accessories from all around the world. British Sugarhill Boutique and Ruby Rocks, but also Greek Mary’s Fairies and A2L. Dresses and accessories by many more brands. Map H13 Evangelismos, Skoufa 64, Kolonaki, +302122133434 ______________________________________________________

Free shop

Perfect T-shirts, unique jewellery and accessories. A modern “Colette”. Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 50, +302103641308 40 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Indulge yourself. Don’t forget the Jackie ’O purse. Map I13 Evangelismos, Tsakalof 27, Kolonaki, +302103602519 ______________________________________________________

hermès

Endless window shopping. Arty displays. Hermès. Map I13 Panepistimio, City Link, Voukourestiou 1, Kolonaki, +302103233715 ______________________________________________________

lacoste

Ultra chic for the old school fans. Polos in every

pantone colour. Map I11 Syntagma, Panepistimiou 18, Kolonaki, +302103618030 ______________________________________________________

Linea Piu

Greek Rue Cambon. Chanel, Blumarine, Galliano, Tom Ford. All chosen carefully. Map K13 Panepistimio, Sekeri 6, Kolonaki, +302103606125, lineapiu.gr ______________________________________________________

Louis Vuitton

Style does matter and this is the real thing. Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 19, Kolonaki, +302103613938 ______________________________________________________

Luisa

Designer names from Lanvin and Chloé to Cavalli and Stella McCartney. Not forgetting Yves Saint Laurent, Manolo Blahnik, Pucci and Jean Paul Gaultier. Map I13 Panepistimio, Skoufa 15, Kolonaki, +302103635600, luisa.gr ______________________________________________________

Mah Jong

The atmosphere tranports you straight to Tanino Crisi’s store in Florence. Do you remember? Mah Jong addresses customers who pay attention to the details. Map J13 Panepistimio, Kanari 14, Kolonaki, +302103622860 ______________________________________________________

Nike

The world’s favourite sports brand right on the most casual square of Athens. Map J13 Syntagma, Ermou 1, Syntagma sq., +302103224407 ______________________________________________________

Polo Ralph Lauren

The world of Ralph Lauren, including men’s clothing, shoes and accessories. Map J11 Syntagma, Voukourestiou 11, Kolonaki, +302103611831 ______________________________________________________

Prada

The Devil wears them and here you too can purchase a small “devilish” piece. Then you might want to change your name to Meryl. Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 17, Kolonaki, +302103388386 ______________________________________________________

Sotris

The most glamorous clothes from famous exclusive brands like Topshop, Dries Van Noten, Marni. Vintage pieces can be found at the first address. Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 41 & Tsakalof, Kolonaki, +302103610662/ Golden Hall, 1st floor, sotris.gr ______________________________________________________

Trussardi Jeans

All jeans and all luxurious accessories branded with the famous greyhound. Map J13 Syntagma, Solonos 1, Kolonaki, +302103641429 ______________________________________________________

wesc

Wesc is a very popular brand among the young (and the young-at-heart) of Greece. Casual lifestyle clothing, urban/street designs, describes perfectly the way Athenians dress in their everyday lives. From men’s jeans to ladies’ outwear, any casual fashion lover loves them. wesc.com

Basic Tips Sales The official sales periods are mid-January to midFebruary and mid-July until the end of August. Credit cards Use of credit cards in Greece is common and they will be accepted in most central shops. However, smaller shops, such as periptera (kiosks) or souvlatki restaurants will only accept cash. Where to shop Downtown is the place to be, whether you are looking for brand names or small vintage shops and second-hand stores. Plaka, the foremost tourist area, is the standard place to buy memorabilia. Nearby, Monastiraki is home to a famous Athenian flea market. Visitors will lose themselves in a huge variety of shops that appeal to aficionados of records, jewellery, clothes, shoes and all things vintage. This is an area in which haggling is accepted by the playful and friendly shop owners. Between Monastiraki sq. and Omonia sq, one comes across the AthensÕ Central Market, a good place to buy some local herbs. Ermou str. is by far the most celebrated shopping street: a pedestrian street with large windows, and a great variety of goodies, from clothes and jewellery to shoes and gifts. But when it comes to expensive brand shopping, Kolonaki is the perfect place to be. Luxury clothing, high prices and impeccably dressed customers are the norm here.

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GREEK DESIGNERS

Atelier Dassios

The only Greek designer with such a popular appeal in cities like St.Tropez, Modena, Mallorca, Imola, Porto Montenegro, Tokyo, Capri, Milan, New York, Paris, Istanbul, Qatar, Florence. In his collection, you will find bags, denim jackets, silk holiday kaftans, waistocoats, jewellery that allude to his Greek roots. Unique creations of authentic handmade materials from the Middle East, leather, fabric and silk. Necessary to book an appointment. Map K16 Syntagma, Vas. Sofias 35, Kolonaki, +302109573582, dassios.com ______________________________________________________

Deux Hommes

The studio and showroom of Grigoris Triantafyllou and Dimitris Alexakis is the hottest place to find a limited prêt-à-porter and the current collection of the unbeatable duo. Map J13 Panepistimio, Kanari 18, Kolonaki, +302103614155, deuxhommes.gr ______________________________________________________

Yiorgos Eleftheriades Space (Flagship store)

Yiorgos Eleftheriades constructs in a mesmerizing way intellectual sartorial creations in graceful silhouettes whose dynamic nature consistently maintain balance together with fluidity. For many years, he has been cooperating with some of the most important directors and actors/actresses in Greece. The brand’s collections have been showcased in Athens, Milan, Paris and Barcelona. Map I14 Evangelismos, Tsakalof 29 and Voukourestiou, Kolonaki, +302103616272, yiorgoseleftheriades.gr ______________________________________________________ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 41

Calzedonia

then go for this brand. Attica - Golden Hall: Kifissias 37A, 2111814000. Bettina: Anagnostopoulou 29, Kolonaki, +302103392094

Authentic, trendy and fashionable socks and beachwear for women, men and kids, in a highly competitive quality / price ratio. Map K8 Syntagma, Stadiou 21, +302106840005/ Solonos 17, +302103605775

JeWellery bvlgari

A “B.zero1” ring or an “Assioma” watch are the must-have items, if you want to invest in Bulgari. Map I 13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 8, Kolonaki (Watches), +302103711011/ Panepistimiou 7, Kolonaki, +302111802600, bulgari.com ______________________________________________________

Cartier

greeK design Forget Me not

According to the Guardian UK, Forget Me Not is one of the top 10 new places you should visit in Athens. Design Greek souvenirs beautifully made by new designers, like wooden sunglasses, T-shirts of the new era, witty totes and more. Akropoli, Adrianou 100, Plaka, +302103253740, facebook.com/ForgetMeNotAthens ______________________________________________________

Graffito

Unique shopping experience combined with a health bar and restaurant in the center of the town. Fascinating with a funky “attitude”, with silent yet powerful vibes of minimal aesthetics and love for unique, beautiful things, this store has become a serene cosmopolitan haven for shoppers, a meeting-point almost exotic. Map I12 Panepistimio, Solonos 34, Kolonaki, +32103608936, graffito.gr ______________________________________________________

greece is for lovers

A team of young designers who have used humour and irony to take the awkwardness out of traditional Greek souvenirs. Original and (mostly) elegant yet functional objects inspired by ancient Greece. Map F12, Panepistimio, Valtetsiou 50-52 (4th floor), Exarchia, +302109245064 (Visit by appointment only) ___________________________________________

ioanna Kourbela

Inspired by nature, Ioanna only uses natural materials combined with elaborate textures. Her creations have a touch of youthful craziness, as if they are constantly in motion. Distributor: +302109942731, Map M9 Akropoli, Adrianou 109 & Hatzimichali 12, Plaka, +302103224591, ioannakourbela.gr ___________________________________________

Zeus + Δione

This is the Greek Maison Hermes. Exeptionally tasteful clothes and accessories based on refined craftsmanship. Leather sandals, handbags and gold jewellery in wonderful designs made with high quality exclusivelly Greek materials. If you’re going to take home one quality souvenir from Athens, 42 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

You don’t have to be extra loaded to own a Cartier. This is where you can find the young collection “Entrelaces”, whose rings don’t cost much, as well as the ultimate “Love” bracelets and rock “Marcello” bags. Map I13 Panepistimio, City Link, Voukourestiou 7, Kolonaki, +302103313600, cartier.com ______________________________________________________

Fanourakis

Greek designer Lina Fanouraki’s jewellery is ultimately Greek spirited but does not resemble at all the traditional ancient, like necklaces and wreaths. Using the prime materials of high-end goldsmithery, her work is modern and humorous but always classy. Map J15 Evangelismos, Patriarchou Ioakim 23, Kolonaki, +302107211762 ______________________________________________________

Folli Follie

Affordable luxury in fashion jewellery, watches and accessories. A global brand. Map K10 Syntagma, Ermou 18, Syntagma, +302103230729, follifollie.gr ___________________________________________

Openin!g HOur s Except for the tourist hotspots, like Plaka, most shops are closed on Sundays and National Holidays, with the exception of flower shops, patisseries, liquor stores and the like. Official business opening hours are 09:00-21:00 on weekdays (09:0020:00 on Sat). However, many smaller businesses keep the older working hours (closed after 15:00 on Mon, Wed, Sat and between 14:30 and 17:30 on Tue, Thu, Fri).

ileana Makri store

Ileana Makri is a well-known Greek jewelry designer. Her fine designs are inspired by a multitude of symbols that exist in popular Greek culture and their meanings, such as the beads that protect of the “evil eye”, the monks’ worry beads, iridescent beetles and bugs of the Greek nature, the sea urchin and more. Map J 16 Evangelismos, Patriarchou Ioakeim 13-15, +302107217982, ileanamakri.com ___________________________________________

Kessaris

Diamonds and blues… Those aren’t icebergs – they’re diamond rings! Salesmen can be quite snobbish, but the quality is great. You’ll know the owner by his red glasses. Map I13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 5 & 7, +302103711010, kessaris.gr ___________________________________________

lalaounis

The heart of the internationally recognised jewellery house is located in Kolonaki. As Ilias Lalaounis says, “every jewel has its own history”, whether it begins in Mycenae or in Byzantium. We’ve seen Charlize Theron

greCian ChiC

Bold graphic style in bright colors and designs that transmit Greek culture, all in wonderful silk scarves by Elena Zournatzi and her brand, Grecian Chic. Find them in Zina Fragi boutique. Agg. Metaxa 33, Glyfada, +302108985039 wearing them. Map I 13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 6 & Voukourestiou, +302103611371, iliaslalaounis.eu/portfolio ______________________________________________________

liana Vourakis

Liana Vourakis is a third generation descendant of a Cretan family of jewelers, which has dominated the Greek market since 1926. Liana continues to honour the founding principles of her grandfather. In her collections she draws inspiration from Greece’s rich traditions, its culture and the magical world of symbols. Her collections combine fantasy and imagination along with a certain sense of nostalgia. Map I14 Evangelismos, City-Link, Stoa Spiromiliou, Voukourestiou str., +302103311107, e: info@vourakisliana.gr ______________________________________________________

lito - Cabinet de Curiosités

Jewels that tell the stories of journeys. Thailand, Arizona, India and Egypt. A small private museum full of treasures with the Lito Karakostanoglou signature who transforms anything old into a modern rock suggestion. Map J15 Panepistimio, Irodotou 25, Kolonaki, +302107295177 ______________________________________________________

Keep in Mind ● Pay a visit to the New Benaki Museum (Pireos 138); its

Greek handmade jewellery is a delight.

● Buy a small figurine in the gift shop of the Cycladic Art Mu-

seum (Vasilissis Sofias & Irodotou 1).

● Clothes and accessories by Ioanna Kourbela and Zeus +

Dione rate among the most elegant examples of Greek design.

● Try to do your shopping in the morning. ● You will come across all the major international brands on

Voukourestiou str.

● Shopping centres Attica (Panepistimiou 9, Athens city cen-

tre) and Golden Hall (Kifissias Avenue 37A, Maroussi) sport the widest variety of shops ● If you have time to kill, have a look at the interesting markets of Kifissia (northern suburbs) and Glyfada (southern suburbs).

______________________________________________________

stop at one. Map J15 Panepistimio, Patriarchou Ioakim 12, Kolonaki, +302107239708, swatch.com/ gr_el/home.html

underWear tezenis

Tezenis stores are cosmopolitan, with youthful, constantly evolving collections, enhanced every week by new items, dedicated to women, men and children. Map I8 Panepistimio, Stadiou 28, +302103225469

shoes Camper shop

Beloved artistic jewellery gallery with a permanent showroom for Greek and foreign designers. Map I15 Evangelismos, Charitos 34, Kolonaki, +302107217789 ______________________________________________________

The most comfortable footwear with a healthy dose of humour. You don’t have to say jokes anymore in order to be funny. Map I14 Panepistimio, Anagnostopoulou 23 & Heraklitou, Kolonaki, +302103640052/ Ermou 34, +302103240050, camper.com ______________________________________________________

Minas

salvatore Ferragamo

Marianna petridi

The ultimate rock designer. Vintage all-time classic jewels, the first choice among the trendy youth. Emanouil Benaki 8, Kifissia, +302106233577, minastudio.com ______________________________________________________

swatch

Code: colour. The must-have Swiss watch, you can’t

intiMissiMi

Amazing lingerie with simple, elegant Italian style, for both men and women. Map K10 Syntagma, Stadiou 21, +302106840005

Ultimate must-have flat or slightly heeled “Varina” ballerinas in every colour of the rainbow (the only label where you can still find some shoes in six different sizes for every style). Map J11 Syntagma, City Link, Stadiou 4, Kolonaki, +302103356437 ______________________________________________________

tod's

Those loafers are haunting us: they’re everywhere – from the feet of grannies to their 12-year-old grandchildren. Map I13 Panepistimio, Voukourestiou 13, Kolonaki, +302103356425

shopping Centres attica

360 shops in a shop. Upmarket department store, the biggest in the city. A comprehensive selection of designer wear (Armani, Burberry, Juicy Couture, Missoni, etc.), casual brands, accessories, exclusive Joe Malone and Molton Brown distributor. A great view

tezenis

Cosmopolitan stores with youthful collections of underwear, beachwear and nightwear, enhanced every week with new items. For women, men and kids. Map i8 Panepistimio, Stadiou 28, +302103225469

from the 6th floor café, and full beauty treatment on the 4th floor. Map I13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 9, Sintagma, 2111802500, atticadps.gr ______________________________________________________

golden hall

Luxurious shopping centre with expensive brands, clothes, accessories, jewelry, sportswear, cosmetics, art objects, Doudesis hair salon, Mastic Spa for special beauty treatment and more. Be warned: it gets extremely crowded on a Saturday. Kifisias 37A, Marousi, +302106803450, goldenhall.gr ______________________________________________________

hondos Center

With 85 stores around Greece, Hondos Center can provide When and t u you with everything you o e you’r athens, need, for your season n i t e t u i abo vour a f r shopping or just for a tiny u o y uploadoments on elegant gift. Or go straight m m using to the roof garden, for a r g a t s in htag some tasty traditional Greek the hasmag k cuisine, and the most beautibeauti #loo ful view. Map F8 Omonia, Omonia Sq. 4, +302105282800, hondoscenter.com ______________________________________________________

notos galleries

A standard department store primarily selling clothes and satisfying most of the consumption needs of the modern Athenian. Clothes, shoes, underwear, accessories, sportswear, toys. Map G8 Omonia, Eolou 99 & Lykourgou, +302103245811, notosgalleries.gr

apiVita

Greek natural cosmetics brand. Natural products on the ground floor, personal cosmetic orders on the first floor, head to the basement for facial and body treatment. Map H12 Panepistimio, Solonos 26, Kolonaki, +302103640560

shopping spree at Mcarthurglen

A mega store filled with popular brand names in clothing, shoes, accessories and household goods with 35 to 70% discount. +302106630840, more information on mcarthurglenathens.com ______________________________________________________

the Mall athens

200 shops within a shop, the Village cinema complex, restaurants and cafés and a super market, all wrapped up in a futuristic design with a roof garden offering an amazing view. Andrea Papandreou 35, Maroussi, +302106300000-003, themallathens.gr

beauty-Care CosMetiCs Mastiha shop

Mastic is a unique natural product that can be found only on the Greek island of Chios. The brand’s collaboration with Korres has developed exceptional products such as the mastic conditioner with mastic oil and provitamins. Map I13 Panepistimio, Panepistimiou 6 & Kriezotou, +302103632750 ______________________________________________________

sephora

All the latest fragrances, plus all the alternative collections that set global trends: Make up for ever, Sephora Products, Strivectin, OPI. Map K10 Syntagma, Ermou 24, Syntagma, +30 2103313167/ Milioni 2, Kolonaki, +302103613051/ The Mall Athens, Marousi, +302106300125

hair salons d. Frank

Hair cuts, coiffures, flashes, colours, everything a classical hair salon offers, as well as lots of surprises. Fragiskos is still the top Scissorhands. Map I14 Evangelismos, Sina 50 & Anagnostopoulou, Kolonaki, +302103603297 ______________________________________________________

georgios doudessis

Georgios Doudesis’ professionalism and modern aesthetics changed the world view of Athenian hair salons forever. Map I13 Evangelismos,Voukourestiou 39, Kolonaki, +302103629970, doudesis.com ______________________________________________________

talkin’ heads Cut & Colour

The most “theatrical” hair salon in Athens. Great modern design, mirrors on the ceiling, fantastic music and superb cuts and styles by George Kambouris who is also a radio DJ. City hipsters love him. Map G12 Evangelismos, Massalias 5, Kolonaki, +302103392211 ______________________________________________________

Vangelis hatzis

The most luxurious service. Slightly specialised in natural-looking blonde colours. But don’t even think of turning up without an appointment. Kifissias 196, Psichiko, +302106747011, vangelishatzis.gr ■

international

b oK stores

find something to read in your own language. By DANAE DEROU anaVasi An exquisite travel bookstore offering a plethora of maps and travel guides to anyone wishing to find their way around hiking and joining activities in Greece. Map K10 Syntagma, Voulis 32, Syntagma,+302103218104 benaKi MuseuM The Benaki Museum store has a variety of art books, catalogues and other beautiful souvenirs available to the public. Map K13 Syntagma, Koumbari 1 & Vasilissis Sofias, Kolonaki, +302103671000/ The New Benaki Museum, Map K1 Kerameikos, Pireos 138, Rouf, +302103453111 best booK hunters This bookstore is ideal for booklovers who wish to purchase used books, but also explore the cornucopia of book collections the store has in stock. Map E12 Panepistimio, Zoodohou Pigis 41A, Exarchia, +302103603473 deutsChe buChhandlung Ideal for those loving German literature, the store also provides plenty of board games for children. Map I10 Panepistimio, Omirou 4 & Stadiou 10, Gallery Lemos, +302103225294 ianos Not only does this store provide a variety of books for

literature and art lovers, but it also organizes cultural events within the store, and includes a small, cozy café. Map I10 Panepistimio, Stadiou 24, Panepistimio, +302103217917

international press By far the largest store with international press in Athens, offering many publications while also providing books. Map F9 Omonia, Panepistimiou 73, Omonia, +302103210989 le liVre ouVert It mostly offers French literature, but it also includes a large section of international titles. Map G11 Panepistimio, Solonos 77, Kolonaki, +302103629703 papasotiriou Updated travel guides as well as international and Greek literature can be found in various spots of this bookstore, such as the Press Point at the Athens International Airport. More info at papasotiriou.gr politeia Vast bookstore offering a huge variety of titles and authors whilst having helpful and well-informed staff, as well as relatively low prices. Map G11 Panepistimio, Asklipiou 1-3, Panepistimio, +302103600235 publiC A large department store in which one can explore his/her choices, as it provides books under most sciences and interests, including Economics, Psychology, and fashion. Map K10 Syntagma, Karagiorgi Servias 1, Syntagma, +302103246210 traVel booKstore This excellent travel bookshop belongs to the top Greek cartography companies ORAMA and ROAD Editions (NAKAS GROUP of companies’ members), which are our map suppliers. Huge variety of top quality maps and travel guides covering every last corner of the country, as well as international maps and travel guides series. If you mention you’re a reader of this guide, the bookshop’s experienced staff will happily give you an extra discount. Map G12 Panepistimio, 71 Solonos street, Kolonaki, +302103616943, travelbookstore.gr ■

HOTELS G

reece is a country identified with friendliness and hospitality. athens, with its nearly 500 hotels actively proves this. from 5* to youth hostels, there is accommodation for all budgets and tastes.

By ERO PARTSAKOULAKI

Arion Luxury Collection Resort & Spa

Vouliagmeni. Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, +302108902000, arionresortathens.com ______________________________________________________

Athenaeum Intercontinental

Athens City Centre. Map Q8, Sygrou-Fix, Sygrou 89-93, +302109206000, ichotelsgroup.com ______________________________________________________

Athens Hilton Athens City Centre.

POSEIDON HOTEL

+302109471000, chandris.gr ______________________________________________________

New Hotel Athens City Centre. Map L11

Syntagma, Filelinon 16, +302103273000, newhotel.athenshotels.it ______________________________________________________

N.J.V. Athens Plaza Athens City Centre.

Map K11 Syntagma, Vassileos Georgiou 2, +302103352400, njvathensplaza.gr ______________________________________________________

Map K19 Evangelismos, Vasilissis Sofias 46, +302107281000, hiltonathens.gr ______________________________________________________

Park Athens City Centre. Map A11, Victoria, Alexandras 10, +302108894500, athensparkhotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Crowne Plaza Athens City Centre. Map J21 Megaro Moussikis, Mihalakopoulou 50, +302107278000, cpathens.com ______________________________________________________

Royal Olympic Athens City Centre.

Map IP8 Akropoli, Athanasiou Diakou 28-34, +302109288400, royalolympic.com ______________________________________________________

Electra Palace Athens City Center.

Saint George Lycabettus Athens City Centre. Map I15, Kleomenous 2, +302107416000, sglycabettus.gr ______________________________________________________

Grand ResortLagonissi Lagonissi. 40th Km Athinon-Souniou, +302291076000, lagonissiresort.gr ______________________________________________________

Semiramis Kifissia. Kifissia, Charilaou Trikoupi

Grande Bretagne Athens City Centre.

Alexandros Athens City Centre. Map F22 Megaro Moussikis, Timoleontos Vassou 8, Ampelokipi, +302106430464, airotel.gr ______________________________________________________

King George II Athens City Centre.

Amalia Athens City Centre. Map L11, Omonia, Amalias 10, +302103237301-9, amalia.gr ______________________________________________________

Map L10 Syntagma, Navarchou Nikodimou 18, +302103370000, electrahotels.gr ______________________________________________________

Map K11, Syntagma, Syntagma sq., +302103330000, grandebretagne.gr ______________________________________________________ Map K11 Syntagma, Syntagma sq., +302103222210, classicalhotels.com ______________________________________________________

Melia Athens Athens City Centre. Map E9,

Omonia, Chalkokondili 14, +302103320100, melia-athens.com ______________________________________________________

Metropolitan Athens City Centre. Syggrou 385, 48 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

48, +302106284400, semiramis.athenshotels.it

Art Hotel Athens Athens City Centre. Map D8,

Omonia, Marni 27, +302105240501, arthotelathens.gr ______________________________________________________

Athens Atrium Athens City Centre. N.Kosmos, Okeanidon 21, +302109319300-4, athensatrium.gr

Athens Lotus Athens City Centre.

Map D5 Metaxourghio, Chiou 9, +302105249050, athenslotushotel.gr ______________________________________________________

AVA Hotel & Suites Athens City Centre. Map N9 Akropoli, Lisikratous 9-11, +302103259000, avahotel.gr ______________________________________________________ Electra Hotel Athens City Centre. Map K10 Syntagma, Ermou 5, +302103378000, electrahotels.gr ______________________________________________________ Fresh Hotel Athens City Centre. Map H7,

Omonia, Sofokleous 26 &Klisthenous 2, +302105248511-6, freshhotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Golden Age Athens City Centre. Map I21

Megaro Moussikis, Michalakopoulou 57, +302107240861-9, goldenage.gr ______________________________________________________

Hera Hotel Athens City Centre. Map Q8 Sygrou-Fix, Falirou 9, +302109236682, herahotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Achilleas Athens City Centre. Map J10

Syntagma, Leka 21, Syntagma, +302103233197, achilleashotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Acropolis Select Athens City Centre.

Map Q7, Syggrou-Fix, Falirou 37-39, +302109211610, acropoliselect.gr ______________________________________________________

Adrian Hotel Athens City Centre. Map L8 Syntagma, Adrianou 74, +302103221553, douros-hotels.com ______________________________________________________ Arethusa Hotel Athens City Centre.

Map K10 Syntagma, Mitropoleos 6-8 & Nikis 12, +302103229431-8, arethusahotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Arion Athens Hotel Athens City Centre.

Map I7 Monastiraki, Omonia, Agiou Dimitriou 18, +302103240415, arionhotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Athens Center Square Monastiraki.

Herodion Athens City Centre. Map P7

Map H7 Syntagma, Aristogitonos 15, +302103211770, athenscentersquarehotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Holiday Suites Hotel Athens City Centre.

Attalos Monastiraki. Map K10 Syntagma, Athinas 29, +302103212801-2-3, attaloshotel.com ______________________________________________________

Ilissia Athens City Centre. Map K19

Omiros Hotel Athens City Centre. Map L9 Syntagma, Apollonos 15, +302103235486-7, omiroshotel.com ______________________________________________________

Ilissos Athens City Centre.

Pan Athens City Centre. Map K10 Syntagma, Mitropoleos 11, +302103237816, panhotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Novotel Athenes Athens City Centre.

Philippos Hotel Athens City Centre. Map P7 Akropoli, Mitseon 3, Makrigianni, +302109223611, philipposhotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Parthenon Athens City Centre. Map O9

Poseidon Hotel Palaio Faliro. 72 Poseidonos Ave., +302109872000, poseidonhotel.com.grt

Periscope Athens City Centre. Map I5

HOSTELS

Akropoli, Rovertou Gali 4, +302109236832-6, herodion.gr ______________________________________________________ Map I21 Megaro Moussikis, Arnis 4, +302107278690, holiday-suites.com ______________________________________________________ Evangelismos / Megaro Moussikis, Mihalakopoulou 25, +302107244051-6, ilisiahotel.gr ______________________________________________________ Syggrou-Fix, Kallirois 72, +302109202000, ilissos.gr ______________________________________________________ Map C7, Larissa Station, Michail Voda 4-6, +302108200700, novotelathens.gr ______________________________________________________ Akropoli, Makri 6, Plaka, +302109234594, airotel.gr ______________________________________________________ Evangelismos, Haritos 22, +302107297200, yeshotels.gr ______________________________________________________

StratosVassilikos Athens City Centre. Map G23 Megaro Moussikis, Mihalakopoulou 114, +302107706611, airotel.gr ______________________________________________________ The Athenian Callirhoe Athens City

Centre. Map Q8, Syggrou-Fix, Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, +302109215353, tac.gr ______________________________________________________

Titania Athens City Centre. Map G9, Omonia, Panepistimiou 52, +302103326000, titania.gr ______________________________________________________ Zafolia Athens City Centre. Map B17,

Alexandras 87-89, +302106449002, zafoliahotel.gr ______________________________________________________

Athens Backpackers Athens City Centre. Map P9 Akropoli, Makri 12, +302109224044, backpackers.gr ______________________________________________________ AthenStyle Athens City Centre. Map J7

Monastiraki, Agias Theklas 10, +302103225010, athenstyle.com ______________________________________________________

Dioskouros Athens City Centre. Map N10 Akropoli, Syntagma, Pitakou 6, +302103248165, hoteldioskouros.com ______________________________________________________ The Student and Travellers Inn Athens City Centre. Map M9 Akropoli / Syntagma, Kidathineon 16, +302103244808-2, studenttravellersinn.com â&#x2013; CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 49

RESTAURANTS

ATHENIAN EATING AT ITS BEST

N GREECE, WHAT WE CALL “MAMA’S FOOD” HOLDS A PROMINENT PLACE IN OUR DAILY DIET. OVER THE PAST YEARS, THE WORLD HAS ALSO LEARNT TO APPRECIATE THE DELIGHTS AND HEALTH BENEFITS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN DIET. WHILE WE ARE VERY PROUD OF OUR NATIONAL CUISINE, THERE IS PLENTY OF CHOICE, IN ATHENS, TO SATISFY EVEN THE MOST DEMANDING CUSTOMER, WHETHER YOU ARE LOOKING FOR A GLIMPSE INTO THE TRADITIONAL GREEK CUISINE OR A CREATIVE, INTERNATIONAL SUGGESTION. By NENELA GEORGELE - KATERINA VNATSIOU

GREEK TRADITIONAL The best compliment a Greek Traditional chef can hear: “This reminds me of the way my mother used to make this plate when I was little… ”. Extra virgin olive oil, fresh seasonal vegetables, greens and herbs, crispy pies and juicy roasts, fresh fish and seafood are some of the ingredients that have established the Greek cuisine as one of the best in the world. You will find it in all tavernas and restaurants throughout the city. 50 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Dexameni

One of the most historical "kafeneia" of Athens, open from 10:00 till very late, for coffee, meze, Cretan raki and delicious home-made halva with ice-cream. Map I15 Evangelismos, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki, +302107214368 € ______________________________________________________

Economou

Traditional tavern in a former working class neihbourhoud which is now a hip area crowded by young artists. Excellent house wine and high quality Greek cuisine. Closed Sun. Map O1 Troon 41 & Kidantidon, Petralona, +302103467555 € ______________________________________________________

Filippou

This historic restaurant will serve you “mama’s” food in very good prices. Closed Sat evening and Sun (also 8-23/8). Map I15 Evangelismos, Xenokratous 19, Kolonaki, +302107216390 €€ ______________________________________________________

Karamanlidika tou Fani (Ta)

FanisTheodoropoulos, the man who opened the popular Arapian (great delicatessen for cold cuts),

MICHELIN

ICHELIN STARS FOR EXCELLENCE ARE AWARDED TO SELECTED RESTAURANTS AND ATHENS COULD NOT MISS ITS SHARE IN TOP QUALITY ESTABLISHMENTS. SPONDI With two Michelin stars, Spondi is con-

sidered the absolute best restaurant in Greece. French cuisine by chef Angelos Langos, luxurious environment and service which makes you feel like a king. Pirronos 5, Pagrati, +302107564021 ___________________________________________________

FUNKY GOURMET Two young and extremely talented chefs, Nikos Roussos and Georgianna Hiliadaki, have won two Michelin Stars with their Modern Greek cuisine. Their motto: “innovative cooking activates the senses”.They already opened a second resto in London. 13, Paramithias Street & Salaminos, Kerameikos, +302105242727 ___________________________________________________ BOTRINI’S Minimal environment in a beautiful

old house with a cozy garden, and an excellent menu by famous chef Ectoras Botrini. Good value for money. B. Georgiou B 24b, Chalandri, +302106857324 ___________________________________________________

€ up to15 €€ 15-25 €€€ 25-35 €€€€ 35+

HYTRA Reach the 6xth floor of the Onassis Cultural Center, and you will find yourself in Hytra, where you can enjoy the great view along with great food. Mainly Greek cuisine by chef Tasos Mantis. Offers a degustation menu and many choices for different budgets. Syggrou Avenue, 107-109, +302103316767 ___________________________________________________ VAROULKO SEASIDE Lefteris Lazarou is the

first Greek chef to acquire a Michelin star. He is one of the country’s most renewed chefs, with a loyal audience and a unique knowledge of seafood. In Varoulko, modern Greek cuisine meets the international gastronomy in an excellent venue with huge windows and a breathtak breathtaking view of the sea which lies in ATHENS HAS a 2 meters distance. Akti KouITS OWN moundourou 52. Mikrolimano, Kentrikon MATSUHISA +302105228400 One of the oldest and most popular Home of the world famous Nobu restaurants in the city center, operating cuisine, Matsuhisa meets the highest since 1937. Greek traditional cuisine. standards for sushi. Highlights: Only open until 18:00. Closed Sun. black cod, nice cocktails, fantastic and on bank holidays. Map J1O location on the sea front. Syntagma, Kolokotroni 3, Syntagma, Astir Palace Hotel, +302103232482 €€ Vlassis Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, __________________________________________ Plain and simple space with an +302108960510 “intellectual” touch, but its pas pasRozalia €€€€ sion for original Greek food remains One of the classic eateries in Exarchia. Its intact. Splendid cooked dishes, and Greek cuisine and lush green roof garden make even better grilled or fried seafood. Closed Sun it very popular. Another plus is the fact that it stays (also 8-23/8). open until very late at night all week. Map D11 Meandrou 15, Ilissia, +302107256335 €€ Omonia, Valtetsiou 58, Exarchia, +302103302933 € ______________________________________________________

introduces a brand-new eatery with spicy dishes, authentic cold cuts from the city of Drama, saganaki with pastrami and handmade dolmadakia. You can also choose from a variety of products on sell. Map H7 Omonia, Sokratous 1 &Evripidou 52, +302103254184 € ___________________________________________

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 51

LIVE LIKE AN ATHENIAN!

GUIDE FOR AN AUTHENTIC I NSIDER'S ATHENIAN EXPERIENCE ARISTON Legendary cheese and other pies. From 1910. Ask for a «kourou». Voulis 10, Sydagma _____________________________________________________ LOUKOUMAS Round pastry, similar to churros.

Served with cinammon and honey. The most traditional can be found in «Ktistakis». Sokratous 59, Monastiraki _____________________________________________________

TRIFYLLI Old fashioned, authentic small tavern.

Small variety of plates, but every single one is worth trying. Budget friendly. After 8pm. Panathinaikou 7, Ambelokipi _____________________________________________________

UBERNESS your chance to impress your date with your Athens insights. Tv chef Vasilis Kallidis opened an avant garde pop up canteen –restaurant located inside the Central Market of Vegetables. The food it serves can be described as «gourmet street food». Tue-Frid 12:00-1:00. _____________________________________________________ PALEO Wine resto for connoisseurs! Located

in a small street in Pireus, close to the port. 450 etiquettes of wine and some of the most delicious plates in town. Polideukous 39, Pireus _____________________________________________________

PAPOTO Ice cream with alcohol, on a stick, served in the ultimate urban terrace of Bios bar. Breathtaking view of the Acropolis on the side. Pireos 84, Keramikos _____________________________________________________ KOSTAS Probably the best souvlaki around!

There is always a queue, and it stays open only until 5pm. Aghias Irinis Square, Monastiraki

GREEK CREATIVE Greeks love their tradi traditional homemade cui cuiZONAR’S sine and renowned Legendary Zonar’s has Greek chefs love been a trademark and meeting to experiment point for the Athenian bourgeois with its recipes. over decades. Recently renewed by What they come some of Greece’s top designers and up with is some professionals. Open all day with cofee, of the country’s tea, snacks and traditional as well most representarepresenta as creative dishes and sushi. Map tive dishes served J11 Sydagma, Voukouresup “with a twist”. tiou 9 and Panepistimiou, The finest restaurestau +302103251430 rants of the Greek crecre €€€ ative cuisine are...

Aleria

Α yard that resembles the french countryside. Two 52 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

level building, elegant decoration, one of the best menus in Greek creative cuisine. You can also relax and have a drink. Sun. Closed. Map G3 Metaksourgio, Meg. Alexandrou 57, Metaksourgio, +302105222633 €€ ______________________________________________________

Athiri

Award-winning chef, creative cuisine, magnificent dishes. Mon.Closed. Map H3 Kerameikos, Plateon 15, Kerameikos, +302103462983 €€ ______________________________________________________

Belle Amie

In this beautiful renovated neoclassical building, you will find traditional Greek coffee, creative Greek dishes with the signature of the excellent chef Christos Tzieras, great desserts and Greek wines. Aggelou Metaxa 11& Voulgari (Kanari sq.), Piraeus, +302104175740 €€ ______________________________________________________

Cookoovaya

Five excellent chefs (N. Karathanos, P. Koskinas, V. Liakos, S. Liakos, K. Zournatzis) have taken over the cuisine of this restaurant, making the whole city curious to try their dishes. Closed 10-17/8. Xatzigianni Mexi 2a, Ilissia, +302107235005 €€€ ______________________________________________________

Dionysos

Enjoy magnificent Mediterranean cuisine in this emblematic restaurant of Athens facing the Acropolis. Beautiful garden and posh customers. Map O7 Akropoli, Rovertou Gali 43, Makrigianni, +302109233182 €€€€ ______________________________________________________

Rififi

A beloved, warm restaurant in the district of Exarchia, which operates in a unique culinary philosophy: buying from small producers, offering a limited selection of dishes and portions on a daily basis and making everything on their own using traditional and organic ingredients. Map E12 Omonia, Em. Benaki 69A & Valtetsiou, Exarchia, +302103300237 €€ ______________________________________________________

The Parliament

The restaurant of the NJV Athens Plaza hotel combines luxury with the simplicity of Mediterranean and Greek flavors. Next to it, you will find the Explorer’s Bar, where you can enjoy excellent finger food, until 2 a.m. Vassileos Georgiou A2, Syntagma, +302103352400 €

MEDITERRANEAN Local, Greek products provide the best material for Mediterranean cuisine and Athens remains the best place to enjoy the tastiest and most creative Mediterranean dishes.

______________________________________________________

City Bistro

Joint in the heart of the city, open from the morning, for coffee, alcoholic beverages and tasty Mediterranean cuisine. Map J11 Syntagma, Stoa Spiromil-

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 53

GREEK PRODUCTS

In Greece, there are plenty delicacies to taste and squeeze in your suitcase when you leave. You can find them everywhere, from deli shops, to simple super markets.

AVGOTARAHO (GREY MULLET BOTTARGA) A delicacy of cured Grey Mullet Roe.

Natural without preservatives, with high nutritional value and a pleasant, long-lasting aftertaste. It can be consumed in small slices as an appetizer, with freshly baked bread or with pasta.

METAXA Internationally famous Greek brandy, since

1888. It leaves a smooth aftertaste, but in the same time it's strong and lively. Perfect for cocktails.

OROPEDIO

Boutari Winery is one of the oldest in Greece, offering very popular wines. Their last creation comes from selected vineyards of Arcadia, a region in Peloponnese famous for its variety of Moschofilero. Oropedio is a white wine with aristocratic character, lasting fine aromas of Greek land and it ideally accompanies salads, legumes, fish, or seafood dishes. Ideal present for friends or even for yourself, it will always remind you of Greek tastes and aromas. Available in restaurants and cellars.

ATTIKI HONEY Absolutely pure and natural, ATTIKI Greek Honey adds flavour to our daily lives and at the same time gives us an immediate energy boost and added strength. The innovative, practical, modern and award-winning Smart Packs for ATTIKI Greek Honey and FINO Greek Forest Honey lock in all the taste, aroma and nutrition of your favourite honey. Young and old alike can now make every moment sweeter, wherever they are, without wasting a single drop of nutritional, high-quality honey. Plus, at any time of the day, use the PΕΤ container to prepare a healthy, filling breakfast or nutritious snack for all the family. TSIPOURO APOSTOLAKIS

Produced in Volos, the place of tsipouro, by a Greek family business. The exclusively natural distillation of the Tsipouro, made with an old traditional recipe and the passion of the young generation of the family, ensures its excellent quality, the rich aromas and light taste. The tradition of Volos, the aromas of the grapes, the celebrations...every Greek moment is in it! 54 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

iou, Athens City Centre, +302103211315-16 €€€ ______________________________________________________

Id 24.7.365

Housed in a privileged establishment, very close to the Acropolis, this new complex is open 24/7. Mediterranean cuisine, excellent coffee and many more are waiting for you ! Map J5 Thissio, Agion Asomaton Sq. 1A, +302103247365 ______________________________________________________

Prosopa

Located in one of the oldest and most picturesque areas of downtown Athens– beloved for its delicious Mediterranean dishes. Enjoy food under the stars. Closed 10-25/8. Konstantinoupoleos 4 & Megalou Vassiliou 52, Rouf, +302103413433 €€ ______________________________________________________

Soleto

The meeting point in Glyfada. During the morning, it serves irresistible breakfasts, but it is mostly known for its Mediterranean (mainly Italian) dishes. It is open until late for drinks and excellent cocktails. Laodikis 36, Glyfada, +302109680460 €€ ______________________________________________________

Vezene

One of the best restaurants in the city, located behind Hilton Hotel. It is always packed with afficionados of nouvelle cuisine. Enjoy the delicacies from Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. Closed Sun. Map K19 Evangelismos, Vrasida 11, Hilton, +302107232002 €€

FANCY A GREEK MEZE ? AMA LACHI Housed in an old school. In the

same building you will also find chez Violette, an authentic French bistrot. Map C12 , Kallidromiou 69, Eksarchia, +302103845978 ___________________________________________________

AVLI Ultra traditional choice, budget-friendly. Relaxed atmosphere, serves coffee in the morning and all kinds of mezedes during the day. Map Q7 G.Olympiou 4, Koukaki, +302114051412 ___________________________________________________ SEYCHELLES Do you like to make friends with the people sitting in other tables in the same restaurant, singing altogether over a plate of delicious Greek food? This place is for you. Map G5 Keramikou 49, Metaksourgio, +30211184789 ___________________________________________________ DIOSKOUROI A favorite choice for tourists, located near the Ancient Agora. Great view, precious shady spots under the trees. Map L6 Dioskouron 13, Plaka, +302103219607 ___________________________________________________ KRITI Named after the eponymous island (Creta in Greek), it serves authentic cretan cuisine. Map E9 Verantzerou 5 (Kaniggos Square), Omonoia, +302103826998

ATHENS FROM ABOVE Like all beautiful cities, Athens looks even better from above. Grab a bite while gazing at this beautiful city in some restaurants, with a privileged location. They can guarantee not only the good quality of the food, but also the most spectacular views of the city. ______________________________________________________

Café Avyssinia

The whole city knows this low-profile but greatly respected taverna, which still carries the good old Athenian atmosphere. The décor and the menu combine aspects of the Balkans, Europe and Middle East. Closed on Sun evenings and Mon. Map J6 Monastiraki, Kynetou 7, Avyssinias sq., Monastiraki, +302103224501 €€ ______________________________________________________

GB Corner

Deluxe art deco interior and impeccable service. An excellent choice after shopping in what can only be branded as Athens’ most chic and historical brasserie. You’ll be sitting next to powerful businessmen, and journalists in search of their next story. Delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Map K11 Syntagma, Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma sq., +302103330000 €€€€ ______________________________________________________

La Suite Lounge

Eating by the Vertigo Pool is cool! Luxurious decoration, original Greek tastes. Nice view to the city and pleasant soundscape. BBQ on Mondays. Map G16 Evangelismos, Hotel St. George Lycabettus, Kleomenous 2, Dexameni, +302107416000 €€ ______________________________________________________

Skyfall

Terrace with unobstructed view of Athens: Acropolis, the Pillars of Olympian Zeus, the city’s bustling avenues. Mediterranean cuisine, finger food, tapas, large wine list and signature cocktails. Map P12, M. Mousourou 1, Mets, +302109210098 €€ ______________________________________________________

The Zillers

This year everybody is talking about The Zillers’ terrace. Lovely setting, outstanding view of the Acropolis, green scenery decoration. Open all day for coffee or drinks, snacks, hot dishes and cocktails. Map K8 Sydagma, Mitropoleos 54, Sydagma, +302103222277 €€

FISH Atherina

A beautiful garden and decoration that brings to mind the Greek islands. Here you can enjoy fresh fish at really good prices. Xar. Trikoupi 162, Nea Erithraia, +302106200089 € ______________________________________________________

Dourabeis

An all-time classic and rightly famous. Fish cuisine of the highest standards. Akti Protopsalti 27, Piraeus, +302104122092 €€€

EAT HEALTHY IN ATHENS

LUTEN FREE, VEGETERIAN, VEGAN, RAW: THERE IS AN ANSWER TO EVERY QUESTION! YI The first raw-eating restaurant in Greece: noth-

Istioploikos

A landmark of Mikrolimano overlooking the Saronic Gulf. In the evening it feels like you are at a beach bar. Modern, Mediterranean cuisine. The café looks like a boat deck. Akti Mikrolimano, Piraeus, +302104134084 -184, 6944915220 €€€€ ______________________________________________________

ing is cooked over 46C. Yi is a multipurpose venue with huge windows, large wooden tables, floral seats and high quality food. Salads, pizzas and excellent sweets: the choice is yours. Grigoriou Labraki 69, Glifada , facebook.com/YiAthens _____________________________________________________

Jimmy and the Fish

TO BAZAKI Huge variety of cold pressed juices. The juices are served in fancy jars (the word bazaki means little jar in Greek). They also serve delicious soups and sandwiches as well as detox deals. The garden is super cozy! Aristotelous 33, Chalandri, tobazaki.com _____________________________________________________

Milos Estiatorio

PURE JUICE BAR Smoothies, acai bowls,

Athenians who love fish frequent this cozy place, which serves big or smaller fish in both creative and traditional way s in its lovely yard. Irakleos & Lisikratous 2, Moschato, +302109404518 €€

unique sandwiches, energy bars (and balls) and a variety of other healthy snacks. White minimal space, delivery service. Sina 21, Evangelismos, Kolonaki, purejuicebar.gr _____________________________________________________

MAMA TIERRA Open kitchen, relaxing tables,

excellent trip advisor reviews. Excellent value for money. They use bio products. Akadimias 84, Evangelismos _____________________________________________________

WILD IN THE CITY Bakery serving smoothies,

sweets and pies made without processed sugar, milk or gluten. Like the healthy version of an espresso bar! Stoa Bolani, Voulis 7, wildinthecity.gr _____________________________________________________

AVOCADO Siblings with neighbouring yoga

school, it’s a hotspot for vegeterians and healthy eaters. Very high rankings on TripAdvisor. Suitable for lunch or dinner. Nikis 30, Sydagma, avocadoathens.com

STREET FOOD: GRAB A BITE ON THE GO

ETNICO Alternative street cuisine. Falafel, quesadillas, burritos, all in budget-friendly prices. Kolokotroni 22 & Havriou, Monastiraki, +302114113880 ______________________________________________________ FEYROUZ Mama’s food: delicious soups and

excellent homemade lahmacun. Karori 23 & Eolou, Monastiraki, +302130318060 ______________________________________________________

JUST MADE 33 Pies, burgers, countless

sandwiches! A «gourmet» hotspot. Evagelistrias 33, Monastiraki, +302155258062 ______________________________________________________

METROPOLIS Popular sandwiches, based on

a variety of products from every corner of the country. Voulis 9-11, Sydagma, +302103222122

56 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

It stands out among the tourist tavernas of Mikrolimano. Meeting point for a fish lunch on Sun by the yachts and fishing boats. Akti Koumoundourou 46, Mikrolimano, +302104124417 €€€€ ___________________________________________________ Inside the Hilton Hotel, minimal ambience, fish and seafood experts. Fixed lunch menu at €27. Map K19 Evangelismos, Hilton Hotel, Vasilissis Sofias 46, Kolonaki, +302107244400 €€€€ ______________________________________________________

Thalassinos

BAR RESTAURANTS 48 Urban Garden

A secret garden in the centre of Athens, inside the popular Ileana Tounta gallery, it offers visitors the unique combination of street food with a gourmet twist. Also, there is a fancy food track in the yard. Map D20, Ambelokipi, Armatolon & Klefton 40, +302106439466 €€ ______________________________________________________

Albion

Bar resto with predominantly Mediterranean cuisine – with emphasis in Italian food – and celebrity clientele. Open noon on Fri, Sat and Sat. Omirou 6, N. Psychiko, +302106740710 €€€€ ______________________________________________________

Balthazar

One of the most beautiful buildings in Athens, it attracts the city’s elite. Here is where politicians, businessmen, artists enjoy their early meals and drinks. Mediterranean cuisine by top chef Christoforos Peskias and a small garden, where sushi is served.Map D21 Ambelokipi, Tsoxa & Vournazou 27, Ambelokipi, +3022106441215 €€€€ ______________________________________________________

School

All-day bar restaurant, with cheerful décor. It utilises school desks for tables. Ideal for coffee, tasty pizza and cocktails. Map J8 Monastiraki, Agias Irinis sq. 8, Monastiraki, +302103251444 € ______________________________________________________

T.G.I. Friday’s

Give some “flavour” to your evenings at TGI Friday’s with appetizers and cocktails at happy hour prices. At TGI Friday’s you will find a variety of refreshing signature cocktails and straight drinks mixed by the greatest bartenders in the world.Kifisia Koloko-

ATHENS’ CHINATOWN

VERY METROPOLIS HAS A CHINAE TOWN: IN ATHENS IT IS LOCATED AROUND SYNTAGMA, WHERE YOU CAN

FIND INSPIRED CHEFS WHO KEEP UP WITH INTERNATIONAL TRENDS AND FEEL THE ORIENTAL VIBE OF THE CITY. FURIN KAZAN Small Japanese restaurant

troni 35, +30 210623 3947-8/ Kolonaki Map K15 Syntagma, Neofytou Vamva 2, +302107227721/ Ambelokipi Map D24 Ambelokipi, Kifisias & Alexandras, +302106475417-8/ Glyfada Lazaraki 43, +302108982608-9/ Palio Faliro Marina Flisvou, Pier One, +302109853281/ Agios Dimitrios The Athens Metro Mall, Vouliagmenis 276, +302109717223/ Asteras Vouliagmenis Apollonos 40, +302108901625 €€

FAST & CASUAL

serving traditional dishes, including sushi, Japanese beers and other specialties. Apollonos 2, +30 2103229170 €€ _____________________________________________________

They pop-up all around the city, offering nicely designed interiors and quick and cheap food.

EAST PEARL Restaurant serving traditional

Crepa-Crepa

Chinese dishes, where you can have a great meal. Apollonos 2 & Nikis ,+30 2103211218 € _____________________________________________________

nese restaurants, Dosirak serves a combination of Japanese and Korean cuisine. Apollonos 8, +302103233330 € _____________________________________________________

Where crepes are worshipped. Tasty, colourful, savoury or sweet, it will be a little hard to choose what to order! Glyfada Artemidos 1, +302108985944/ Halandri Herakliou 3-5, +302106858138/ Kolonaki Map H12 Panepistimio, Skoufa 46, +302114044803/ Monastiraki Mitropoleos 80 +302103216003 €/ Nea Smyrni, Martiou 25 & Irinis 2, +302109317705 Lambrini Traleon 71, +302102222071/ Psiri Map I7 Monastiraki, Iroon Sq. 5 & Pallados 24-26, +302103218484/ Saronida Saronidos 28-30 2291054602/ The Mall Athens Andrea Papandreou 35, Marousi, +302106198207 € ______________________________________________________

ATTIC MOON Traditional Chinese restaurant

Everest

NOLAN Japanese, Vietnamese, Korean and Chinese cuisines come together in Nolan, where Greek ingredients are used to prepare the dishes. Voulis 31-33, +302103243545 €€ _____________________________________________________ DOSIRAK Decorated like traditional Japa-

serving traditional Chinese food. Xenofontos 10, +30 2103227095 € _____________________________________________________

SUSHIMΟU Serves sushi prepared from

chef Antonis Drakoulakis. You can try matcha tea, and also Japanese whisky. Skoufou 6, +302114078457 € _____________________________________________________

BAΒAJI BabaJi prepares great Indian street

food. Spicy dishes, and a lot of choices for vegetarians. Nikis 11, +302103254841 € _____________________________________________________

INDIAN KITCHEN The name gives away

what it’s all about. Simple, yet not exactly traditional Indian food is served here. Apollonos 6, +302103237720 € _____________________________________________________

JINK Traditional Chinese food, menus on iPads and great noodles are found at Jink. Nikis 13, +30 2112159352 € _____________________________________________________ NOODLE BAR Tasteful classics of Asian kitchen, noodles, spring rolls and sushi can be found at Noodle bar. Apollonos 11, +302103318585, € When y ________________________

KOI Famous sushi bar, relatively cheap sushi and classic sushi appetizers. Dine outside when it's hot. Nikis 15, +30 2103211099 € 58 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

There’s one on every corner. A dazzling array of ingredients to choose from and make your own dream sandwich. The same applies for pies, salads, pastry, coffees, beverages and drinks. Those in the city’s centre are usually open 24 hours. € ______________________________________________________

Graffito

The first concept store in the center of Athens. You can go shopping (clothes, furniture and items with the signature of famous designers) or just for the amazing raw-vegan desserts, the healthy dishes and the excellent wine. Solonos 34, Kolonaki, +302103608936 €€ ______________________________________________________

Hot Hot

One of the best places to eat burger. Not only for its tasteful burgers (Buffalo Ribeye is highly recommended), but also for the amazing prices. Furthermore the rock music and the 1960’s décor make you feel like you are at the best rock n’ roll party! Map I9 Panepistimio, Vrioulon 3, N. Filadelfia, +302130246631, Praxitelous 2, Panepistimio, +302130272440 € ______________________________________________________

It The “it” place to have a lunch break, the absolute out and ou’re about in Athe meeting point for the locals. Combines the vibe n of a modern restaurant with the casualness of favouri s, upload you on inst te moment r a take away. Healthy and fresh food, natural hashtaagram using s juices, salads, soups, an alternative option for th g# fast food. Open all day. Map G12 Panepisand let athensvoicee timio, Skoufa 29, Kolonaki, +302103631827, take a the world 2103635773 €€ of the Aglimpse thenian life!

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 59

MAKING WINE FOR 6,500 YEARS By GIANNIS DIMOPOULOS

Dionysus (Bacchus in Roman) being the bad boy of Mt Olympus was the last god to be accepted. He was the god of wine. Greeks invented symposia (literally drinking parties) and Greece is one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions, making its own wine for the past 6,500 years. Since the tourism boom of the country in the 1960s, retsina, a white wine with resin aroma, has become almost synonymous to Greece and Greek wine. But there is far more than that for the wine lovers. In recent years the wine industry in Greece has opened up to younger new participants. Charming wine bars spring up everywhere and a generation of new winemakers, educated in France and the US, take charge of existing wineries, introduce new methods and reintroduce old forgotten varieties. For many years now, top international varieties have been cultivated with great success. Top sommeliers, wine writers and traders have put Greece firmly on the global “wine map”. There are also many rare regional varieties, which are well worth trying. The years to come will be very interesting! Some of the best producers and their top wines are listed below. A bottle of good white wine in the liqueur stores costs between €12-20 and a bottle of red €15-30. ______________________________________________________

WINE RESTO

Bottega

An essential all day wine spot with 120 selected labels of Greek and international wine varieties paired with delicious dishes. With its funky look, jazz music and the collaboration between sommelier Nikos Orfanoudakis and executive chef Kostas Tsigkas which is focused on wine. Fragkokklisias 3A & Granikou, Maroussi, +302106100288 € ______________________________________________________

By the Glass

This hot spot for wine lovers offers one of the most updated and exciting wine lists in the city, in a cozy beautiful atrium. You may choose from 250 different wine labels including Greek and international varieties. More than 50 of them are served by the glass. 60 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

THE MOST IMPORTANT INDIGENOUS GREEK WINE GRAPES WHITE VARIETIES Assyrtico: The finest white grape from Santorini Island and possibly the cheapest top white wine of the world. Mineral with high acidity, ages well. Try to distinguish an aged assyrtiko to a Chablis Grand Cru. Malagousia: Aromatic, with a scent of ripe peaches, apricots and green pepper. Moschofilero: A sweet, aromatic grape, the Greek Gewurztraminer! RED VARIETIES Agiorgitico: Rich, deeply coloured, ages well. Xinomavro: Greece’s answer to Barolo, needs time to develop. SOME OF THE TOP PRODUCERS Aivalis, Alpha Estate, Antonopoulos, Arghyros, Biblia Chora, Boutaris, Driopi, Gaia, Gerovassiliou, Hatzidakis, Hatzimichalis, Katogi Strofilia, Katsaros, Kir-Yanni, Manousakis, Mercouri, Papaioannou, Pavlidis, Samos, Sigalas, Skouras, Tselepos. MY FAVOURITES WHITE WINES Alpha Estate: Sauvignon Blanc Antonopoulos: Chardonnay Anax Arghyros: Vareli Assyrtico, Ktima Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Kalisti Reserve Gaia: Τhalassitis, Wild ferment Assyrtico

Gerovassiliou: Chardonnay, Malagousia Hatzidakis: Nihteri, Louros (top wine) Katsaros: Chardonnay Kir-Yanni: Samaropetra Manousakis: Roussanne Mercouri: Malvasia Sigalas: Nihteri, Cavalieros Skouras: Viognier Eclectique RED WINES Aivalis: Monopati Alpha Estate: Xinomavro Unfiltered, Alpha 1 Antonopoulos: Nea Dris Avantis: Collection (top Syrah) Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Classic Grand Reserve (top wine since 1879) Driopi: Agiorgitico Gaia: Agiorgitico Gerovassiliou: Avaton, Syrah Karydas: Xinomavro Katogi Strofilia: Ktima Averof Kir-Yanni: Diaporos, Blue Fox Manousakis: Syrah Mercouri: Refosco Papaioannou: Mikroklima, Terroir Sigalas: Mavrotragano Skouras: Solera aged Labyrinth, Megas Oinos Thimiopoulos: New age Xinomavro Tselepos: Kokkinomylos (top Merlot) SWEET WINES Vinsanto: Sun dried grapes from Santorini. These wines have the complexity of olorosos and Tokajs. Top producers: Argiros and Sigalas. Mavrodaphne: Sweet fortified wines. Best old like Banyls. Muscat: Sweet wines from Samos island. ■

They also serve coffee, juices and spirits and Greek and international food. From early in the morning till late at night. Map M11 Syntagma, G. Souri 3 & Philellinon, +302103232560 € ______________________________________________________

Heteroclito

Wines from Greek producers, good prices and tasty side-dishes with cheese and cold cuts. Every day from 18:00 till late. Map K9 Syntagma, Fokionos 2 & Petraki, +302103239406 € ______________________________________________________

Winepoint

Just next to the Acropolis Museum, it offers a huge variety of wine (150 unique choices) from 4,000 labels, 600 wineries and 200 local grape varieties, plus live music and other surprises. Map P9 Akropoli, Athanasiou Diakou 2 & Porinou, Makrigianni, +302109227050, +302103219855 €

Grab a bite in “New York” style. Beef sandwiches, meatballs with sauce, chicken, soups and, for dessert, a piece of the best cheesecake in town. Map E25,Sinopis 3, Pyrgos Athinon, +302107778475, Nikis 23 Sydagma +303216000 € ______________________________________________________

Neoklassikon

One of the most famous places to taste Greek Souvlaki, but also great traditional greek dishes. Map K10 Syntagma, Kar. Servias 20 & Lekka, +302103318810 € ______________________________________________________

Nice n Easy

Probably the only place in Athens with a combination of mostly organic food and calorie counts in the menu. Fresh, local ingredients used. Menu of healthy and delicious choices and sushi. Open for coffee and breakfast at 09:00. Map H13 Panepistimio, Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Kolonaki, +302103617201, Papadiamanti 7, Kifissia, +302108082014 €

Stelios Parliaros

SWEET TASTES Traditional Greek pastries are sweet, rich and soaked in flavour

HALVA A fudge made with sesame seed paste,

Open from 11 a.m. for coffee and brunch. As time passes by, you will find selected French dishes. Extra tip: its garden is one of the most beautiful in the area. Zirini 2, Kifissia, +306936144744 €€€ ______________________________________________________

sesame oil and sugar. It is offered as a dessert in many tavernas, after the end of a meal. BACLAVA Nuts, almonds, cinnamon, cloves and syrup. One of the most popular pastry desserts. GALAKTOBOUREKO Another popular sweet. A pie filled with custard and then doused in vanilla syrup. LOUKOUMADES Deep fried little doughnuts served with honey, syrup or ice cream. GLYKA KOUTALIOU Various Greek fruits preserved in thick sugary syrup. They come in small jars and are an ideal gift for friends back home. RYZOGALO Rice pudding made of rice boiled in milk, sugar and vanilla, sprinkled with cinnamon. You can find it in dairies and super markets. DIPLES Deep fried honey rolls served with nuts. ____________________________________________________

L’ Abreuvoir

Chatzis Traditional sweet tastes since 1908. Try

FRENCH CUISINE Greeks love their crème brûlée and the city has its fair share of French restaurants. ______________________________________________________

Artisanal

All time classic French cuisine, elegant and stylish. Enjoy the food in its beautiful garden – alongside politicians, esteemed businessmen and VIPs. Map I16 Evangelismos, Xenokratous 51, Kolonaki, +302107229106 €€€€

ITALIAN Fine restaurants, chain brands, diners and cozy trattorias with the sights and scents of Italy.

______________________________________________________

Pasteria (LA)

Twelve restaurants all over the city. With a rich wine list and a tempting menu from all over Italy. Marousi The Mall Athens, +302106198230 Kolonaki +30210 3632032/ Glyfada +302108945085/ Kifisia +302108085607/ NeaSmyrni +302109319146/ PaleoFaliro +302109858880/ Ambelokipi +302106401480/ AgiaParaskevi +302106019975/ Halandri +302106854210/ Kato Patissia +302102236295 €€ ______________________________________________________

Vincenzo

Authentic thin Italian crust, wonderful pepperoni, rich pasta. Great menu with Italian flavours to chose from. Reasonable prices and most importantly excellent, personal service. Giannitsopoulou 1, Glyfada, +302108941310 €€ ■

the baklava, the cream pie (galaktoboureko) and ekmek kantaifi with butter made from buffalo milk. Map K10 Syntagma, Mitropoleos 5, Syntagma, +302103222647 _____________________________________________________

Paul The well-known, internationally acclaimed French boulangerie makes Athenians’ lives considerably sweeter. Authentic French delicacies, including brioche, baguettes, pastries and more , in a regular meeting point of taste lovers. Map J11 Syntagma, Panepistimiou 10, Athens City Centre, +302103632362/ Esperidon Sq. & Kyprou 70, Glyfada, +302108947169 _____________________________________________________ Sweet Alchemy The pastry chef who has

changed the face of confectionary in Greece, Stelios Parliaros, studied art and pastry-making in France. Author of eight books, since 2008 Parliaros has hosted the weekly Greek TV show “Sweet Alchemies”. He has rightfully earned the title of the top Greek chef pâtissier. Map K15 Evangelismos, Irodotou 24, Kolonaki, +302107240205/ Kolokotroni 9, Kifissia (Metro Line 1), +302108080480 _____________________________________________________

Varsos Long and rich tradition in sweets. Specialties include ryzogalo (creamy rice pudding topped with a sprinkle of cinnamon) and delicious tsoureki. Kassaveti 5, Kifisia, +302108012472 ■ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 61

Photo: ALKIS KALOUDIS

New York Sandwiches

62 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 63

Bars&cluBs

f AtheniAns Are good in one thing, ιτ is enjoying nightlife! We spend most of our nights out, And We Welcome visitors to our fAvourite hAngouts. come hAve A drink With us!

By ElEni BEzirianoglou, Eliza Synadinou

Elegant and classy cocktail bar, noir atmosphere. Different menu every month. Hip hop, jazz, soul music. Map J10 Syntagma, Kolokotroni 3, Syntagma, +306948242455 ______________________________________________________

Baba au rum

Sounds like a sweet but it’s actually one of the best bars around, serving exceptional cocktails based on rare recipes and ingredients often imported from far away places. Map J9 Monastiraki, Klitiou 6, Monastiraki, +302117109140 ______________________________________________________

Bartesera

A hangout for actors and new artists who use its alternative exhibition space. Map J9 Syntagma, Kolokotroni 25, Syntagma, +302103229805 ______________________________________________________

Drunk sinatra

Hype place that attracts the city’s trendiest crowds, always packed with youngsters. Posters of Frankie 64 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

on the wall, of course. One of the most popular places in town. Map J9 Syntagma, Thisseos 16, Syntagma, +302103313733 ______________________________________________________

Galaxy

Old time classic, very famous among the people who know the Athenian nightlife well. Bohemian urbanities mix with journalists and connoisseurs. Map J11 Syntagma, Stadiou 10, Syntagma, +302103227733, Closed Sun ______________________________________________________

Key Bar

A well known hangout for journalists, it also hosts photography exhibitions. This year, it celebrates its ten years anniversary. Indie pop music. Map I9 Monastiraki, Praxitelous 37, Monastiraki, +302103230380

GaZI - VOTaNIKOs - KEraMEIKOs A meeting point, under the spell of the urban charm of the Technopolis. The metro has made it easily accessible, helping the area to flourish.

Photo Constantinos tsilakis

DOWNTOWN

OTHEr aTHENIaN NIGHTlIFE DIsTrIcTs

Bios

Arty space with cool terrace, great view and urban style. It hosts gigs and performances. Map I3 Kerameikos, Pireos 84, Kerameikos, +30 2103425335 ______________________________________________________

PaNOrMOu squarE

(Map A25 Panormou) Also known as “The island of Athens”, because of its open-air bars. Dunkel offers delicious cocktails (+302130409418), in Marabou’s terrace you will discover a flirty side in you (+302106910797), Potopolion might remind you of an Irish pub (+302106911672), and Santa Botella (+302106981032) is a classical choice in the area. ______________________________________________________

Gazarte

Sophisticated lounge space on three levels. Its summer terrace attracts visitors from all around the city. It often hosts gigs and other events. Map I1 Kerameikos, Voutadon 32-34, Gazi, +302103460347 ______________________________________________________

Hoxton

KarITsI squarE

Chesterfield sofas, industrial design. One of the first bars in the area, once packed with trendy crowds. Cool ambiance. Map I1 Kerameikos, Voutadon 42, Gazi, +30 2103413395 ______________________________________________________

(Map J10 Syntatgma) Once the ultimate hipster hotspot, now struggling to hold its position, nevertheless still an option with quality choices. Probably the best is the Gin Joint, with more than 65 varieties of Gin (+30 2103218646), Toy Bar is a tiny favourite (+30 2103311555), Priza is perfect for Brit-Pop affectionados (+30 2103244101) and PairiDaeza is the oldest bar on the square (+302103210233). ______________________________________________________

Intrepid Fox

Loud music and punk rock mood. A big pool table in the middle, gig posters featuring rock stars on the walls, a couple of cages to rough things up and a wide bar. Map I1 Kerameikos, Triptolemou 31, Gazi, +302103466055 ______________________________________________________

MaVIlI

Nipiagogio

(Map F22 Ambelokipi) Historic Mavili Square will reward you if you are looking for a slightly sophisticated summer hangout. BrIKI The place to be after 1:00 AM. Legendary bar with loyal patrons, always crowded. A hub for the city’s thirty somethings. Dorileou 6, Mavili sq., +302106452380 KyrIOs Very classy decoration, expensive glasses, jazzy music. Also serves food. Dorileou 2, Mavili sq., +302106400615 Galaxy Bar Luxury overdose on the Athens Hilton rooftop with a breathtaking view. Lounge music, excellent service, comes at a price of course. Map K19 Megaro Moussikis, Vassilisis Sofias 46, Hilton Hotel, +302107281402 lOras A classic of the Athenian nightlife. Journalists meeting point, excellent quality of alcohol. Soutsou 7, Mavili sq., +302106428473

Rumor has it that it plays the best black music in town. The name means “kindergarten”, and it is housed in the building of an old...kindergarten. Map J1 Kerameikos, Elasidon 8 & Kleanthous, Gazi, +302103458534

PlaKa - PsIrI - MONasTIraKI THIssIO - PETralONa After your daily sightseeing, the area offers a great variety of bars to choose from.

a For athens

Famous roof garden, namesake of the hotel housed in the same building. Stunning view and innovative, award winning cocktails. Map J7 Monastiraki, Miaouli 2-4, Monastiraki, +302103244244 ______________________________________________________

six d.o.g.s

Absolute hipster hot spot, it often hosts art events and is connected to alternative music as a hub. There is also a gig space. Nice, relaxed garden in the back. Map J7 Monastiraki, Avramiotou 6-8, Monastiraki, +302103210510 ______________________________________________________ Arty multispace with relaxed ambiance and homey furniture where you can also visit art exhibitions or attend various performances. Map J8 Monastiraki, Kolokotroni 57, Monastiraki, +302103240944 ______________________________________________________

cantina social

Ultra urban location, in a backyard squeezed between apartment buildings. The decoration resembles a junk shop. Usually hosts dj’s. Map J5

Photo anna Roumelioti

Booze

Monastiraki, Leokoriou 8, Psiri, +302103251668 ______________________________________________________

Klouvi

Rock and jazz music “cage”, arty customers, small venue, bohemian - cool style. Dimofontos 57, Ano Petralona, +302103479998 ______________________________________________________

Tiki Athens

Crowded by tourists mainly due to its location, tropical decoration and happy faces. Music includes mixing of new and oldest pieces. Map Q7 Akropoli, Falirou 15, Makrigianni, +302109236908 ______________________________________________________

Transistor

An Athenian favourite over the past years, a guarantee for a great night-out with freestyle music and thirty something faces. Map J7 Monastiraki, Protogenous 10, Psiri, +302103228658 ______________________________________________________

Photo Leonidas Rigopoulos

Vrettos

After Hours Athens belongs to the club of cities claiming they never sleep, and rightly so. you can find a watering hole around the clock and these are the ones we recommend.

Maybe the most popular of all, MG gives shelter to half of the city’s night-dwellers when every other bar is closed. If you pop in before 01:00, there’ll be barely 5 people around. But don’t be disappointed: three hours later it’ll be crowded as hell with people listening to classic rock. Map F22 Ambelokipi, Soutsou 11, Mavili sq. ______________________________________________________

The Seven Jokers

Tiny but super lively joint with great music, excellent drinks and loads of fun. Open till dawn. Very flirty mood. Map J10 Syntagma, Voulis 7, Sintagma, +302103219225 ______________________________________________________

Batman

The ultimate afterhours place to be, named after its owner's nickname, who is the DJ. Be prepared for a real taste of the Athenian lifestyle. There is no label outside, but trust us, you will spot it. Be prepared to listen to Greek folk music followed sometimes by the Beetles and meet original, Athenian night figures. If you know Batman, you know Athens. Vristhenis 40, Neos Kosmos, +302109241585 66 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

A landmark of Plaka, with a colourful background of bottles containing more than 20 kinds of house produced liquor. It’s also Europe’s second oldest distillery. Map N9 Akropoli, Kidathineon 41, Plaka, +302103232110

KOLONAKI Relaxed but chic

Minnie the Moocher

Classy and lively, crowded, excellent service and upbeat jazzy music. Map I13 Panepistimio, Tsakalof 6, Kolonaki, +302103641686 ______________________________________________________

Passepartout

Lively 30 something yuppies’ meeting point. Tasty Mediterranean cuisine and a varied wine list. Usually with a DJ set from early noon and Saturday afternoon parties. Map I13 Panepistimio, Skoufa 47-49, Kolonaki, +302103645546 ______________________________________________________

Skoufaki

One of the favourite Athenian hotspots and meeting point for actors and theatre people. Some of the staff are also actors. Many special guest DJs at nights. Map H12 Panepistimio, Skoufa 47-49, Kolonaki, +30210 3645888

EXARCHIA The neighbourhood of contrasts

Excellent cocktails and a very friendly atmosphere from the staff and owners. It serves breakfast and very special Ukrainian pies! Most importantly, it's very low budget. Map E12 Omonia, Emmanouil Benaki 67, Exarchia, +302103801771 ______________________________________________________

Warehouse

80 varieties of wine, tasty bites, very cool ambiance,

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 67

Agias Irinis Square Map J7

Monastiraki

Athens’ current superhotspot, always crowded. In the square around the church of St. Irene on Aeolou Street there are a number of all day café-bars with outdoor tables. ISLAND

friendly staff. Map F12 Omonoia, Mavromihali & Valtetsiou 21, Exarchia +306986214872 ______________________________________________________

Tziz

In between Exarchia and Kolonaki, quiet in the morning and early afternoon, busier in the evening, with soul funk vibes and nice cocktails. Map F11 Omonia, Navarinou 12, Exarchia, +302103633120

ATHENS SEAFRONT The closest thing to a Riviera in the capital. To get there, ask for “Paraliaki”.

Holy Spirit Cocktail Bar

Tailor Made Classy and crowded, located in a building designed by architect Ernst Ziller. +302130049645 ______________________________________________________ Osterman A taste of Parisian ambiance, a bar

restaurant with exceptional food and a high profile mood. +302103243331 ______________________________________________________

Telaro Brand new pet friendly choice, white details, friendly staff, cold plates. +302103243740 ______________________________________________________ Zaf Great wine list, youthful and flirty environment. +302103236711 ______________________________________________________ Throubi Sibling to an ultra famous bar in Spetses island which goes by the same name, soul music, fine cocktails. +302103230928

Created by top mixologist Xavier Misailides and several of the best professionals in town, it’s always crowded with some of the prettiest faces around. Enjoy a top quality cocktail at the tables outside or the feel-good music inside and dance if you feel like it. Laodikis 41, +302108982650 ______________________________________________________

sic, dance parties, lots of celebrities. Every Thursday “jungles nights” party with DJ ACE2ACE and interesting acts with the signature of Konstantinos Rigos. 27th km Athens-Sounio Road, Varkiza, +302109653563-4 ______________________________________________________

Akrotiri Club Restaurant

A slice of indie in the heart of Glyfada . Old-school pop and rock tunes fused with dance grooves. Laodikis 30, Glyfada, +302108983208

Decorated in black and white, with fluorescent notes, echoing mainstream disco and house music. It offers Mediterranean cuisine and attracts a fashionable crowd. Vassileos Georgiou B'5, Agios Kosmas Beach, +302117709600 ______________________________________________________

Bolivar Beach Bar

Sun, sand, music, fun. The bamboo decoration and palm trees tansform the place into an exotic island. Every year, it hosts the most prominent names of the domestic music scene. Poseidonos Avenue, Akti Iliou, Alimos, +306970367684 ______________________________________________________

Island

The most famous “island” in Athens. A modern clubrestaurant that captures the spirit of the Cyclades. Frozen cocktails, Mediterannean cuisine, lounge mu-

Late night

bites

Mosaiko

PIRAEUS - Trouba Once a red-light district that hosted the harbour’s brothels, cabarets and sleazy bars. the 1960 Oscar-winning movie “Never on a Sunday” was staged there. Now it has a second life as Piraeus’ nightlife centre.

Madama

A few meters from the harbour with decoration straight from the famous Trouba of the 60s, mainstream music, impressive cocktails and delicious fingerfood. Defteras Merarchias 9 & Filonos 101, Piraeus, +3021041745911

Are you out and about feeling hungry? Fear not. Athens will equally please you with late night bites as well as fab drinks! Here are some of the legendary canteens which serve hot dogs and souvlaki, a favourite Athenian after hours choice. The canteen on Mavili sq, a popular spot late at night. [Moved a few meters away at Soutsou 3 str so it is not an actual “canteen” anymore, but the food remains the same]. • The red wagon outside Panteion University on Syggrou Av. • The famous canteen on Michalakopoulou Str. There is always a queue, proof of the quality of the food.

68 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Beluga

Unique modern-retro décor, open from early in the morning till late at night with delicious coffee, Mediterranean cuisine, a varied wine and cocktail list combined with swing jazz sounds. Defteras Merarchias 8-10, Piraeus, +302104116505

Other bars nearby

Bouzoukia The original Greek Experience V

isitors often have a hard time understanding this favourite Greek entertainment, seeing it as a rather exotic experience. Usually in large venues, famous singers have their fans throwing flowers at them, dancing on the stage. Musically, modern bouzoukia have incorporated influences from diverse genres, including folk, pop, even ...techno.

Lola’s Bar Defteras Merarchias 14, Piraeus, +302104529722 6 Stolos Filonos 52 & Bouboulinas 6, Piraeus, +30210411653 Troubar Filonos 131, Piraeus, +306940556837 Barouge Filonos 91, Piraeus ,+302130375221 Scaraveos Filonos76, Piraeus, +306988081003

Estate Seaside - Akrotiri

Gay Friendly

Thea

There are noumerous choices out there for a Gay friendly night, as Athens increases its tolerance vibe year by year. Gay friendly areas, such as Gazi and Agias Irinis Sq. are flourishing.

Big Bar

Low prices, very friendly atmosphere, also hosts exhibitions. Map J1 Kerameikos, Falesias 12, Votanikos, +306946282845 ______________________________________________________

Noiz

Probably the best known club for girls who like girls, also very welcoming to every other sexuality. Map H1 Kerameikos, Konstantinoupoleos 78, Gazi +302103467850 ______________________________________________________

Shamone

SAKIS ROUVAS, THODORIS FERRIS, KONSTANTINOS KOUFOS Fri-Sat, Vas.Georgiou B' 5, Ag. Kosmas, +302109859147, akrotirilounge.gr NIKOS OIKONOMOPOULOS, STELLA KALLI, MALOU Fri-Sat, Poseidonos Avenue 3, Kalamaki, +302109813950, theaclub.gr

Frangelico group

GIORGOS GIANNIAS, LENA PAPADOPOULOU, SAKIS ARSENIOU Thu-Sat, Poseidonos Avenue 35, Kalamaki, +302109843250, frangeliconights.gr

Posidonio Music Hall

GIANNIS PLOUTARXOS Fri-Sun, Poseidonos Avenue 18, Elliniko, +302108941033, posidoniomusichall.gr

Cabaret@romeo

GIORGOS SAMPANIS, TAMTA, DEMY Fri-Sat, Ellinikou 1, Elliniko, +302108945345

Fantasia live

Fun club, theme nights, drag shows, happy ambiance. Kerameikos, Konstantinoupoleos 46, Gazi, +302103450144 ______________________________________________________

KONSTANTINOS ARGYROS, ELENI FOUREIRA,FANI DRAKOPOULOU Fri-Sat, Poseidonos Avenue 5, Elliniko, +302108940203

Dyari Café

Must Seaside Club

Nice coffee and relaxed drinks. Cozy atmosphere, interesting music choices. Map H2 Kerameikos, Megalou Alexandrou 124, +302103426710. ______________________________________________________

Rooster

Snacks, coffee, drinks, in the lively area of Agias Irinis Sq. LGBT friendly. Map J7 Monastiraki, Agias Irinis Square, 4, +302103224410 ■

tips Greek Bar-life dictionary Shot sfinaki Low quality alcohol beverage bomba Straight drink sketo Cheers ya mas! Free drink (usually offered by the barman or another customer) kerasma

PANOS KIAMOS, KOSTAS MARTAKIS, OTHERVIEW Thu-Sat, K.Karamanlis Avenue 4, Voula, +302152151636, mustclub.com.gr

LiFe is aLways better on the

beach LIMANAKIA

re you in Athens for holidAys or for A short stAy before visiting one of our beAutiful islAnds?in Any cAse, don’t miss the opportunity to swim into the turquoise wAters of AtticA. A trAm ride or A short drive AwAy, you’ll find yourself working on your suntAn And enjoying A relAxing dAy fAr from the city buzz. just follow the list And our tips to find whAt is best suited for you.

By ero Partsakoulaki

Free beaches alepochori (66 km)

a beautiful beach which gathers athenian crowds and offers various facilities. You can find beach volley nets, cafes and tavernas and certainly one of the must dos is staying late to enjoy the sunset. ______________________________________________________

edem (pAleo fAliro) (9 km)

the closest (free) beach to the city centre, usually pretty crowded, so rush hours are to be avoided. Close to Flisvos beach, the easiest way to get here is by taking the Tram to the stop “Edem”. ______________________________________________________ AGIA MARINA

erotospilia (43 km)

Admittedly overcrowded during the weekends. Most probably you will find yourself either cramped among scores of bathers resting under the trees’ shade or directly facing the sun. It is worth a visit however. Take your own umbrella and enjoy the sea, visiting the kiosk nearby for water and basic food supplies. ______________________________________________________

Legrena (64 km)

Considered by many as the best attica beach, it is advisable to better come here on weekdays to avoid the crowds of the weekend. To get here, turn left upon seeing the kaPe sign, shortly before you get to the village of “Legrena”. ______________________________________________________

Limanakia Vouliagmenis (20 km)

KAVOURI

if you get here before 11:00 you’ll probably be lucky enough to find a nice spot. The water is clear and the landscape is quite original. Favorite location for nudists, this area is not actually a beach. Leave your towel on the rocks surrounding the turquoise natural pools and jump straight into the water. You can just park your car on the side of the road. ______________________________________________________

Megalo Kavouri (17km)

VOULIAGMENI

70 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

With a small island as its trademark, this beach has much to offer. It is heavily crowded, with shallow waters and there are many options to buy refreshments, food and coffee, but there is limited parking space. However it is a great choice for chilling in the evening. ______________________________________________________

Psatha (66 km)

An hour and a half drive from the city centre, this beach is big enough to accomodate everyone. With two and a half km of coastline, it is visibly less crowded than the nearby, organized Alepochori. With a view to the Corinthian gulf and crystal clear waters, the landscape is great and you can even set up your tent for the night. To get there take the road to Megara and then follow the signs to Alepochori. ______________________________________________________

Varnava (35 km)

Get to the village named “Varnava” in the East of Attica region and drive 12 more km to the beach. On the way to the coast you will pass many bays but it’s preferable to choose among those on your right. If you feel like eating something there are a few family tavernas in the area.

Organised beaches Asteras Glyfadas (20 km)

A cosmopolitan complex with 3 bars, children facilities, and a capacity of over 5,000 people. Very close to the city centre. Right on the beach, in Balux CafeSeaside, you can enjoy a dish of Polynesian cuisine. info Bus line 122 from Elliniko metro station or Bus A2 from Acadimias Str. Entrance fee: €4 weekdays and €6 on weekends (deckchairs and umbrellas included). Half price for children 4-12 years old. +302108941620, asterascomplex.com ______________________________________________________

Asteras Vouliagmenis (20 km)

Favoured by celebrities, emerging stars and their fans, this beach is definitely the most glamorous and an Athenian elite favourite. It has been visited, among others, by Brigitte Bardot and Joan Collins. INFO Bus line 122 from Elliniko metro station. Entrance fee: €18 weekdays, €28 weekends, free admission for children under 5, half price for those between the ages of 5 to 12. Free facilities include umbrellas, deckchairs, locker rooms, showers with hot water and Internet access. The pool is a good alternative. Caretaker service for little children provided upon request. +302108901694 ______________________________________________________

Grand Beach Lagonissi (35 km)

A choice of luxury. Enjoy the pool, the floating bar, the beach bar, the restaurants as well as facilities for people with disabilities in a relaxed environment. info Entrance fee €15 weekdays, €25 weekends. The price includes umbrellas and decks. Parking costs €6 on weekdays and €12 on the weekend. +302291076000, lagonissiresort.gr ______________________________________________________

Vouliagmeni beach (20 km)

One of the most popular destinations, this beach lays just a heartbeat away from Athens’s centre and has a coastline of 650 meters. Located almost 20 km southeast of the center, just off Poseidonos Avenue, it offers beach umbrellas and sun-beds, a variety of sport activities (tennis, basketball, volleyball and racquetball) and a mini playground.

info Entrance fee is €4 euros per person weekdays and €5 weekends. The reduced fee is €3 on weekdays and €4 on weekends. Reduced fees apply for students 6 to 18 and big families (relative documentation required). ______________________________________________________

Vouliagmeni Lake (21 km)

A thermal spring that lies sunk in the remains of an immense limestone cavern, it is highly recommended fot the therapeutic qualities of the water. Its temperature is always between 22 to 29 C, so devoted patrons come for morning-long immersions all yearround. There is also a restaurant and a romantic café. info Entrance fee €10 weekdays, €11 weekends. limnivouliagmenis.gr, +302108962237 ______________________________________________________

Yabanaki (27 km)

A family option, Yabanaki is a large water park located in Varkiza. Cafés, restaurants, beach bars, waterslides, water games and free parking. info Entrance fee €5 weekdays, €6 weekends, €3,50 for students, senior citizens and children aged 6-12. Free admission for children under 6. On weekdays regular deckchairs are free of charge, weekends you have to pay €10/set. +302108972414, yabanaki.gr

Naked in the sun

Limanakia Vouliagmenis (20 km)

The third cove is mainly favoured by nudists. Keep in mind that on your way back you’ll have to hike on rocks. No bar or kiosk nearby, so be prepared: bring water and snacks with you. ______________________________________________________

Legrena (second beach) (64 km)

Nudists prefer the second beach, next to the big one just pass the small rocks. Along the Athens-Sounio coastal road, there are dozens of small coves ideal for all swimming preferences. As there are no organised nudist beaches in Greece be prepared for primitive splashes. ______________________________________________________

Ramnounta (64 km)

A bit far, isolated and not organised. To get there, head east to Gramatiko and just before the local village turn right following the sign “Limnonas”. Be brave enough to continue the journey and go ahead as soon as you see the “Sesi” sign. At this point turn right to the steep downhill. ■

How to get there

bus You can see all the bus schedules at oasa. gr or call 1185 (Mon-Fri 06:30-22:30, Sat-Sun 07:30-22:30) tram The most relaxed way to get to the South East coastline. Voula is the terminal station (“Asklipio Voulas”), departs from Syntagma. Info: stasy. gr KTEL buses They depart from Mavromateon str. Pedion tou Areos and go all the way to Rafina and Sounio (for Athens-Sounio call +302108808081 and for Athens-Rafina call +302108808082) CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 71

ISlAndS W

ElcOmE TO PARAdIsE: blAzING suN, mEsmERIsING bEAcHEs, cRysTAl clEAR wATERs ANd APPETIsING FOOd. IN THE FOllOwING PAGEs, wE PIckEd A FEw OF OuR FAvOuRITE GREEk IslANds, TO GIvE yOu sOmE IdEAs FOR yOuR NExT dEsTINATION. By ELIZA SYNADINOU, ERO PARTSAKOULAKI, DANAI DEROU

AMORGOS

IN THE HEART OF THE AEGEAN Many claim that the island carries metaphysical vibes. On one hand, there is the sweetness and intense nightlife of Aigiali, and on the other hand the relaxed atmosphere of Katapola. Hard to choose between the two. Between them lies Chora. Mountainous and beautiful, it shines under the Cycladic sun.

Where to swim

The wild environ of Aghia Anna, which is the background in the movie “Deep Blue” is highly ranked and gives one a consciousness of the power of nature. The waters of the whitewashed point of Aghios Pavlos, are a great choice. As are Phoenixes and Tyrokomio, next to Xylokeratidi, where you can walk from Aghios Panteleimonas to Maltezi. At Aigiali, the water is ideal for a night swim as there is usually no wind nor waves, and it is located next to small bars. Skin-diving fans chose Kampi as a base. ______________________________________________________

Where to stay

Blue and white huts, in the camping, or at Kastanis rooms to let in Katapola (+302285071277, www.kastanisgroup. gr/campingkastanis). Mornings are wonderful, along the marble tables, and at night, when Antonis grabs his violin, the echo of wonderful music reaches even the mountain. It offers marvelous bedded huts, while in the restaurant you will enjoy magnificent home cuisine. A 20% discount is offered to students, unemployed and large families. Camping is also available in Aigiali (+302285073500). In Arkesini you can stay at Marouso rooms to let (+302285072253, +306977619444), near Mouro and Kalotariitissa beaches. Luxury can be found in Aegialis 74 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Hotel & Spa (amorgos-aegialis.com, 2285073393) a large complex viewing the sea. Extraordinary stay, in a 5 star hotel with luxurious facilities next to the vast blue of the Aegean and next to Ormos of Aigiali, and also offering a variety of activities such as yoga. The hotel also features an exquisite restaurant. ______________________________________________________

Where to eat

In graphic Arkesini, Marouso (+302285072331) is a traditional tavern, where Mrs. Marouso and her family prepare home food, using local ingredients, in a familiar and friendly environment. Also open for coffee in the morning. The sunset from its beautiful veranda is majestic, and its dishes are unique: traditionally cooked goat, squid filled with feta cheese, fresh fish, and many meat dishes, aubergines cooked in the oven with feta cheese and tomatoes, and other tasty dishes, all in affordable prices. The space can be rented for events as well.A good choice is also Armiriki (+306987353408). Order Amorgian split peas, local cheese, fish and lobster spaghetti. Meli kai Kanela (+302285071485) in Katapola is the first patisserie to make doughnuts with baked raki. In Katapola, Kapetan Dimos (+302285071020) was the first bar of the island, and as of 12 years prior, it operates as a restaurant. ______________________________________________________

Where to have fun

At Chora, stop at the cozy Giasemi (+302285074017). Botilia (+306976610005) serves exquisite cocktails and wine bar Tzitziki (+302285072080) has an artistic decoration and wine tasting nights. ______________________________________________________

Transportation

It is preferable to have a means of transportation. Cars (4x4 as well), motorcycles and bicycles can be rented at good prices at Thomas Auto Moto Rental (+302285071777) in Katapola. ■

ISlAnd EScApES

IOS

THE IslANd THAT NEvER slEEPs Considered among the most beautiful islands of the Aegean, Ios is a lot more than simply a famous nightlife destination. Youthful crowds, beautiful beaches and ancient findings form the setting of the island, which –in terms of booze consumption, bar hopping and summer lovescompetes with other famous destinations, such as Mykonos and Santorini. Ios however attracts mainly younger visitors with its carefree, devilmay-care vibe. A strategic island in prehistoric times, the inhabitants of Ios strongly support the theory that Homer is buried on their island. Despite its reputation, Ios still offers alternative ways of fun than just endless partying. You can walk along mountainous paths, observe the wild nature or enjoy activities of agrotourism, including taking care of the locals’ livestock, fishing or harvesting honey. To get an idea about the island’s history visit the Archaeological Museum, built on a hill of Chora. In 2008, Ios was awarded the European Union Cultural Heritage prize for its conservation efforts at the archaelogical site of Skarkos.Find out more about the island on the official website of the municipality of Ios: www.ios.gr. In case you don’t have a car and decide to explore your transportation options, write down the number of the local bus (+302286092015).

Where to swim

Ios is replete with numerous beautiful beaches to choose from. Gyalos is a fully equipped beach near the harbour 76 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

with beautiful sand and tamarix trees. Mylopotas is very busy with beach bars, tavernas and two camping sites. At Koumpara, on a crystal clear beach near the port you can enjoy a relaxing bath, even without your bathing suit. Prepare for dreamy dives at Magganari, with its crystal clear waters, velvet like sand and private yachts sailing around. Agia Theodoti at Epano Kampos is the perfect spot for a romantic peaceful swim. Kalamos is where you will also find peace and quiet as well as a perfect diving spot. The beach at the bay of Psathi and its wild surroundings is suitable for surfers. ______________________________________________________

Where to stay

In Chora you will find dozens of rooms among the narrow streets, but in Mylopotas village you can enjoy spacious hotels to enjoy your coffee, along with a morning dive in the swimming pool before starting your journey to the beach. Get more info at the municipal website (www.ios. gr). If however you enjoy camping, you have two options in the area. Choose between Stars Camping & Purple Pig (+302286091302) and the famous Far Out (+302286091468). On the beach of Mylopotas you will find Ios Palace Hotel (+3022860 92000), with two swimming pools, rooms to please every taste overlooking the big Aegean blue plus a spa for ultimate relaxation. Another option at Mylopotas is Levantes Luxury Resort (+302286092588) also providing luxury suites with private pools and panoramic views over the bay. Other options include Agalia in Tzamaria (+302286091019). ______________________________________________________

Where to eat & drink

A great choice for the afterhours is the Slammer (+302286092375). Ask for the renowned Tequila Slammer Hammer, but be prepared for anything! They say that when a visitor passes by, he just can’t avoid to go again and again. In the central square of Chora you will find Baru

(+302286091488), a bar-club housed in an old 19th century building. Staying open until dawn, it plays nonstop mainstream music, serves pure drinks and spectacular cocktails with dry ice. At Koumbaras beach,it is highly recommended to try the traditional dishes of Polydoros (+302286091132), serving for the past 30 years. In the beautiful Koumbara beach you must also visit the fish restaurant of the same name Koumbara (+302286091699). By the sea, accompanied by tasty appetizers and the freshest fish on the island, you will enjoy the sunset from Iosâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; best spot. Located on the same beach as well, Pathos Lounge Bar Restaurant (+306981000122) serves modern Greek cuisine and their cooked vacuum cod, served with garlic sauce and tomato jam, should be put straight away on your list. Try the Taste of Joy in Tzamaria (+302286091019). When it comes to nightlife, you will certainly find something that suits you.You need to know that half of Chora consists mainly of bars! Nice after bars are the classic Disco 69 and the newest Traffic. If you wish to try something different, go to Steps just below the windmills. Sit comfortably on colorful cushions on the stairs, taste fine wines from Santorini, interesting drinks and a relaxed, summer atmosphere. For a drink on the beach, try Free Beach Bar (+302286028357). ______________________________________________________

Shopping Therapy!

For unique Greek designer clothes, handmade jewelry, shoes, bathing suits, sandals and many more items to juice up your vacation, take time to visit Votsalo (+306937297541), the Concept Boutique Store located both in Chora and the port of Ios. â&#x2013;

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 77

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When you’re out and about on some bea island, uploadutiful favourite mom your e on instagramnts using the hash #athensvoicetag

KOUFOnISIA smAll cyclAdIc GEms

Koufonisia is a complex of two beautiful islands. The island of Ano Koufonisi has been used as a base by pirates in the Medieval times and is now experiencing great development in tourism, especially due to its exotic beaches, but also due to its peaceful environment. Ano Koufonisi, or simply Koufonisi, is more residential and developed. One walk is sufficient to see the whole island. Kato Koufonisi is the heart of free camping. A settlement of tents and camps is created each summer.

Where to swim in Ano Koufonisi

Waters are so clean, that you can even swim in the harbour. However, the organized beach of Phoenix, where you can also find rooms to let, is only a 15 minute walk. Following in order are: Fanos and Italida (Platia Pounta), which is preferred by those who like building sand castles and sculptures. More to the East, you will find the rocky and windy beach of Pori. Throughout the coastline of the island, crystal blue waters can be found, resembling pools due to the shapes of rocks surrounding them.You can tour around the island by boat, or visit Kato Koufonisi which has also amazing waters and beaches. ______________________________________________________

Where to stay

Despite the fact that there are a number of hotels and rooms to let available, if you wanted to visit in August, it would be a good idea to book in advance. The traditional hotel Aigaion (hotel-aigaion.gr, +302285074050) is the first to operate on the island, while Dafnis Studios (www.dafniskoufonisia. com, +302285074020), Villa Maria Vekri (+302285029225), Selini Studios (+302285074143), Alkionides (www.alkionides.gr, +302285071694) and Ostria Villa (www.ostriavilla. gr, +302285071671), are also good picks. Koufonisia Hotel Resort (+302285074067) is a top quality choice. 78 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Where to eat

The majority of locals enjoy the occupation of fishing and do so daily, which means that fresh fish will always be available. However, in July and August, there are lots of tourists, and in order to enjoy fresh fish, one has to book in advance (morning preferably). On the port, next to the sea, you can find a number of traditional taverns, in which you can enjoy cooked food, and meat. Gastronaftis (+302285071468) offers a slightly twisted version of Mediterranean kitchen, and there you will find fresh pasta, meat dishes and fresh sea shells in risottos, and also a great variety of Greek wines and beers, produced by small, Greek breweries. The best-seller dishes are: the tuna stake, the pappardelle with shrimp, while starters are also spectacular, with handmade cheese loukoumades, served with homemade tomato jam. Lavanda e Rosmarino (+302285074434) will offer you authentic Italian recipes, as it was founded by three Italian women (mother, daughter and aunt), who fell in love with the island while on vacation. You will enjoy fresh, cooked or raw fish, homemade pasta and Italian gluten-free goods, all while having a view of the sea. Moreover, the most hip “ouzeries” of the island are Karnagio (+302285071694), Kapetan Dimitris’s Tavern (+302285071695), where every dish smells like the sea. _____________________________________________________

Where to have a great time

For an authentic experience of a Greek night-out, try En Plo (+302285074489), which promises to keep you up until dawn. You can visit it from the early afternoon hours, for a coffee or homemade sweets. The cold “rakomelo” of the island is a must-try. It is refreshing and very easy to come across. For a romantic drink, with the view of Keros, Milos is the place, while for a chill out night, Kalamia (+302285074444) is a great choice. The establishment of the old school, now operates as a rock bar, and is called School (+302285071837). The number 1 bar of the island is the old time classic Sorokos (+302285 071704), with cool cocktails and an extra inclination towards dance. ■

Koufonissia 2285074489

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 79

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nAxOS

GREEcE AT ITs FINEsT From historical sites to sandy beaches and clear waters, Naxos has it all. Its breathcatching landscapes, including mountains and green valleys, are only a few of the things Naxos has to offer. Do visit the old villages by the seaside, as local festivals with traditional music and folklore dances are organised every season. Naxos boasts the remnants of Byzantine and Ancient Greek history on its soil. Byzantine churches are scattered across the island, while monasteries and fortified castles have an imposing presence. Naxos’s aqueduct which features a tunnel from Barou to Kaminia is also worthy of a visit. One must see the ruins of the unfinished Temple of Apollo, and pay a visit to the islet of Palatia, where the magnificent site of Portara is located. Portara offers unforgettable views of the sea and breathtaking sunsets. Naxos’s multiple beautiful locations, along with its rich history, make it a very popular holiday destination.

What to see

The signs of a rich history are almost constantly in front of the visitor, In Naxos you can enjoy tranquility and isolation 80 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

even during the busiest days of August or party wildly while bar-hopping in the town or the coast road from Ai-Giorgis to Plaka. In ancient Greece, Naxos was the island of gods Dionysos and Demetra and therefore the ancient temples dedicated to them are a must-see. Dionysos’s temple is at Yria, behind Agia Anna, while Demetra’s restored temple is at Sangri. At Melanes you will see the ancient Kouros, a huge statue that looks like it’s laying down and sleeping in the fields. In the north, at the coastal village Apollonas you will find the ancient, colossal Kouros statue, laying in supine position. Naxos is well-known for its Byzantine towers, such as the towers of Bazaeos, Zevgolis, Glezos and Delarokas and also its castles, such as the castle-monastery of Photodotes, of Epselotera and the famous castle of the town. ______________________________________________________

Where to swim

No other Cycladic island has so many and beautiful beaches. Crystal clear, turquoise waters, either organized and cosmopolitan, or isolated, there are many options to choose from. Ai-Yiorgis, Agios Prokopis and Agia Anna, are all well equipped and organized. Leaving Plaka behind, you’ll find the beautiful and more deserted beaches of Orkos, Mikri kai Megali Vigla (Small and Big Vigla), Pyrgaki, Kastraki and Alyko. On the northern side of the island you will find Ammitis, Abrami and Agioi Theodoroi. On the east, Psili Ammos, Azalas, Klidos and Panormos. ______________________________________________________

Where to stay

Naxos Magic Village (+302285026590, www.naxosmgicvil-

lage.com), built amphitheatrically on the hill of Stelida, just 5 miles from the town of Naxos, is the hotel with the best panoramic view in the whole island. This well-tended, clean and beautiful bungalow residence on the side of a hill, near the beach, challenges you to enjoy a truly magical and relaxing holiday. Other options include Pension Philoxenia (+302285022042, www.pension-philoxenia. com), Porto Naxos (+302285023970, www.portonaxos. gr), Naxos Holidays Hotel (+302285024350, www. naxosholidayshotel.com). Astir of Naxos at Ai-Giorgis (+302285029320, www.astirofnaxos.com) and Naxos Resort Hotel (+302285026650, www.naxosresort.gr). ______________________________________________________

Where to eat

Grab a bite at Irinis (+302285026780), one of the most celebrated tavernas in Chora, by the harbour: traditional cuisine and friendly service. Also by the harbour, you will find Pekanteko (+302285022371), for the past 20 years it’s been the island’s most famous restaurant to enjoy gyros and grilled dishes, and Like Home (+306942830326), Good quality food and interesting flavors can also be found at the Italian restaurants Il Girasole (+302285023326), Sue Giu (+302285029029), as well as at the wine restaurant Lavyrinthos (+302285022253) with a nice yard and Mediterranean dishes. The beach bar Banana (+306978733402, the restaurant Island and the restaurant Patatosporos are top choices in Agia Anna. If you wish to try Naxian cuisine at its best, make sure to make an early reservation at Axiotissa (+302285075107) in Kastraki.

Don’t miss

We reccomend to taste and buy the world-famous traditional cheeses of Naxos. Do pay a visit to Tirokomia Naxou (+302285024918) at the village of AgiosIsidoros. You can also find them in the shop Koufopoulos at the centre of Chora (Papavassileiou Str. +302285026018). In Citron CaféCocktail Bar (+302285027055), at the coastal area of Chora, you can buy the famous liquer of Naxos, called Kitron and used in unique cocktail combinations. ■

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SERIFOS dREAmy bEAcHEs

Serifos has its own place in Greek Mythology: Danae, the daughter of King Acrisius of Argos, was made pregnant by Zeus, the king of Gods, who met her in the form of golden rain, as her father had her locked away following an oracle that her son would one day kill him. When Acrisius sent Danae and her newborn, Perseus, away, they found shelter in Serifos, where the King fell in love with Danae. Perseus killed him, when he grew older. The prophecy was nevertheless fulfilled many years later, when Perseus accidentally hit his grandfather in the head without knowing it was him, during the Olympic Games. In antiquity, Serifos was believed to be the home to a species of mute frogs and during the Roman imperial period served as a place for exile. Later, in the 19th century, it developed a strong economy based on the exploitation of the island’s extensive iron ore deposits and became known as an island of metals. Serifos’ underground, in fact, is so rich in minerals that in the 6th century the island issued its own currency. The mines closed down in 1960 and the island’s economy began to decline. Nowadays, main sources of income are tourism, with very high seasons every summer, and low-level agriculture. The main attractions of the island are its numerous 82 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

beaches (more than 70). Some of them are considered among the best in Greece. The picturesque village of Chora, the island’s capital, is also a good reason to visit Serifos. It is built on top of a hill, an authentic medieval settlement with magnificent views. There, often in the summer nights, the customers of various taverns form large groups and sing together under the starry night. Youngsters prefer the popular and busy Livadi with its many bars, Koutalas with its old stone houses and old miners’ settlements, and Mega Livadi with the mining company’s old headquarters, evoking classical style. The most well-known ancient monument is the White Tower, a Hellenistic marble watchtower (ca. 300 BC), standing on a hilltop just east off the road from Chora to Mega Livadi, near Mega Chorio. Several other tower-like constructions have been spotted or unearthed, including the megalithic Psaros Pyrgos, or, as it is more commonly known, “Couch of the Cyclops”, in tandem with the myths about Cyclops inhabiting the island.

Where to swim

With more than 70 beaches to chose from, there is a one for everyone. Livadi has umbrellas, sunbeds and a sandy beach, Avlomonas and Livadakia are sandy beaches with tamarix trees, Karavi with flat rocks in the water, is shaded by trees and is suitable for nudism. At Koutalas bay you will find Ganema and Vagia shaded by trees and protected under Natura 2000. To the east you there is Psili Ammos, once voted the best beach in Europe, sandy with shallow waters, Kentarhos is just below the village with the same nameand Platys Gyalos has shade and a taverna. To the

north there is Sykamia, a long beach, and Karavas which you can only reach through a rough country road or a path ______________________________________________________

Where to stay

At Livadakia, Alexandros Vassilia (www.alexandros-vassilia.gr, +3022810 51119) is located just in front of a clean, golden-sandy beach and offers a relaxing experience at reasonable prices. All rooms come with a great view. The facilities also house a restaurant with excellent, traditional homemade food. Try the famous “revithada” with rosemary or traditional tomato and zucchini balls. Indigo Studios (+302281052548, +306945437966), just 40 km from the sea, at Livadi, is comprised of fully-equipped, beautifully furnished apartments and rooms. Of course, if you are an open-air aficionado, there is always Coralli, the camping, (+302281051500, www.coralli.gr) one of the best camping facilities in Greece, very organized with an internet area, restaurant, mini market, dining hall, swimming pool, shared kitchen, and laundry room. The front row of tents is located just 10 meters away from the crystal sea. ______________________________________________________

Where to eat & drink

Cuckoo (+302281052697), in Hora, serves delicious Italian cuisine, pasta and pizza at their best. A quality choice in a charming environment. At Thalami (+302281052668) in Livadi, you can choose the tables on the beach or those in the beautiful yard, and you will enjoy real Greek seafood and local dishes. Mpakakaki (+302281051010) in Livadi spelialises in meat dishes served in a traditional environment. At the same area you will find Skipper’s Dock, a wine and cocktail bar-restaurant, which also serves delicious breakfast. Takis (+302281051159) is a traditional tavern by the sea. The Kafeneio stou Stratou (+302281052566) is probably the island’s best-loved place in Ano Chora right in the Town Hall square. Vatrahos, also in Ano Chora, (+302281052687) is a lively bar with zappy music offering a variety of unique cocktails. It is a traditional coffee house serving royal omelettes and a special marble cake, crowded by locals. Café bar Anemos (+302281051783) offers a unique view of Chora. Yacht Club (+302281051888), in Livadi, has a presence of more than 20 years and is renowned for its laid-back vibe and its variety of drinks and dishes. Aerino (+302281052592) yhas a breathtaking view from the terrace – one of the best spots to have a drink on the island. Indigo Café (+302281051956) is an all-day, delicious chill-out café-bar at Livadi, right by the sea, ideal for a refreshing juice on a deckchair. The jazz, ethnic, retro and rock music – makes it very popular. ______________________________________________________

Don’t miss

Right by the ferry terminal, Barbara’s (+302281052390, +306974828715) offers souvenirs, fashion accessories and brand clothes at very accessible prices. In Le Côtéchéri (+302281052056), designed by Dassios, you can find selected items from his personal collection, as well as accessories and objects brought back from his travels. For car rental service try Poseidon Rent a Car (Livadi, +302281052030). In love with Cyclades? Feel like buying a home here? Serifos Real Estate (+302281052089), based in Livadi, Serifos, but also catering to other Cyclades islands, is the place you are looking for to get started. ■ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 83

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SIFnOS uNwINd IN sTylE

Sifnos, the “Capital of Pottery”, is an island of the Cyclades, and it does justice to its reputation. “Sifnian” pots, styled in such a way that they’re considered trademarks of the island, jugs, and other beautiful, unique vessels are an exquisite sight, so do visit the Small Museum of Modern Pottery in the monastery of Firogia. The historical sites of Sifnos are also worth visiting. Like most Greek islands, Sifnos is full of old monasteries. The monastery of Prophitis Apsilos, which is built on the ruins of an ancient citadel, located on the highest mountain of Sifnos, as well as the beautiful monastery of AgiosIoannis Chrysostomos in Kato Petali, really worth your time. Panayia tou Vounou also qualifies as a good choice to visit, as it features an amazing architectural

structure and a magnificent view of Platis Gialos beach and the island of Kipriani. According to Sifnos’ history, the island was rich with gold, silver and lead mines. The ancient mines of Agios Sostis, Agios Silvestros, Vorini, Kapsalo and Xeroxilo, are all great sites to pay a visit to. Finally, the Archeological Museum of Sifnos, in the village of Kastro, built on the site of the extensive medieval remains of the ancient city of Sifnos and the Folklore Museum of the Association of the Sifnians, in Apollonia, are both fantastic choices.

Where to swim

Platis Yialos is well organized with a cosmopolitan atmosphere. If you prefer a more secluded experience, you should go to Herronisos. Fasolou beach is private too, with trees providing natural shade and a small traditional taverna. Those with more extreme tastes could choose the rocky Epta Martyres beach. Close to the harbour, you will find the Kamares beach. Rent a car from Podotas(+302284033973)-it also offers accommodation and ticket services) so you can go everywhere! ______________________________________________________

Where to stay

Smaragdi (+3022840 33901-2, +306940 577413, +302114035982), a family-run picturesque hotel located in the center of the famous and quaint village of Artemonas, is a great choice for your stay on the island. Conveniently located and in walking distance from the main village of Apollonia, it offers well-equipped, furnished, air conditioned rooms with en-suite bathrooms. Expect to enjoy a comfortable stay with free wi-fi access and spacious balconies with panoramic views. In Windmill Bella Vista (+302284033518), in Artemonas, you can stay in luxury apartments, studios and even in a traditional windmill with breathtaking views, a swimming pool for your dives and a nice restaurant. You can also choose Margado (+302284031927) in Kamares, as well as Delfini Hotel (+302284033740), which has a restaurant serving local cuisine and traditional sweets of the island. 84 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Authentic Sifnos Cuisine

To Steki

RESTAURANT-CATERING Platis Yialos, Sifnos

2284071215

Where to eat & drink

At the area of Kamares, you will find Araksovoli (+302284032362), a restaurant with beautiful view to the harbour and tables by the sea with traditional cuisine and some modern Mediterranean touches. Don’t miss their traditional chickpea soup baked in the oven, mastelo cheese and most importantly fresh fish, fished daily with their own boat. All dishes (including fish, which is usually more expensive) come in extremely affordable prices. In Platis Gialos you will find Steki (+302284071215) with lovely local cuisine (revithokeftedes, traditional mastelo and caper salad are among the highlights) and fresh fish. You will enjoy your meal at the tables by the sea. In Kamares, Sirma (+302284031829) is a café-bar where you can enjoy

coffee, snacks and drinks right on the beach. ______________________________________________________

Shopping

In Apollonia, multispace Cycladon Choros (+302284032215) has become a place for social meetings and cultural activities. It includes the restaurant Rambagas, the gallery named Giomisti Kefali and and the boutique Biba Fashion, hidden in a huge garden, offering designer brands from all over the world (M Missoni, 120% Lino, Pin Up, American Vintage, LTB e.tc.) at very good prices. Le Cotecheri (+302284033970), located in an old mansion with many rooms and cellars, sells clothes, accessories, ethnic objects and jewelry, all in the style of famous Greek designer Dimitris Dassios. ■

rooms

Artemonas Sifnos +30 2284 033901

www.smaragdi.gr

fb: Smaragdi Hotel in Sifnos, Greece CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 85

ISlAnd EScApES When you’re out and about on some bea island, uploadutiful favourite mom your e on instagramnts using the hash #athensvoicetag

SyROS

sTATEly bEAuTIFul

Rich with history and character, the capital of the Cyclades has always been at the epicentre of economic developments. Its capital port, Ermoupolis, combines a cosmopolitan feel with the elegant calmness of a long-time tradition of wealth. During the 19th century Ermoupolis surpassed even the port of Piraeus in commercial importance. The settlement history of the island begins in the Early Bronze Age and the Cycladic Civilization. Syros was also the home of the philosopher Pherecydes, the teacher of Pythagoras. In modern history and because of its crucial position, Syros was known as a maritime way-point. In the 1821 Greek War of Idependance, a series of factors led to the island’s neutrality. After the Independence and the establishment of the modern Greek state, Syros had a spectacular economic growth. Ermoupoli, a major port with significant shipyards, was fast modernized. To this day, Ermoupoli has a special architectural interest due to the buildings designed at the time by famous architects, in the then fashionable neoclassical style. Such architectural landmarks include the City Hall (designed by the famous German architect Ernst Ziller), the theatre Apollon by the Italian architect Campo (a miniature version of La Scala in Milano), Miaoulis square and many more. The commercial activities included trade of silk, leather, fabrics and iron. The renowned Neorion shipyard, which is still operational, is to this day an important industrial monument. Medieval-style Ano Siros, located very close to Ermoupolis, is also an important tourist attraction. 86 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Where to swim

The southern coast of Syros boasts the most popular beaches, and they are relatively different from one another, so they cover a wide range of tastes. Some pebbled, others sandy, yet they all share one common trait: crystal waters. By far the most organized Syros beaches are Galissas, Megas Gialos, Kini and Poseidonia, with advanced tourist infrastructure, namely beach bars, hotels and seaside tavernas. The island offers a comprehensive bus service but the most convenient way to visit every remote beach is to rent a car (we recommend Maistrali, www.maistraligroup.gr) ______________________________________________________

Where to stay

Ermoupolis, the capital, is a classic choice. If you want a place to stay for a unique holiday, try En Ermoupoli (+302281085789), only a few meters from the central square and the port and within walking distance of the historic centre of the city.The hotel is housed in a recently renovated neoclassical building of the last century. There is also Diogenis hotel, housed in an authentic 19th century building (+302281086301) and Paradise which is also on a very central spot (+302281083204). In Vari, for a seaside experience: Kamelo Hotel (+302281061217) is very good value and has an almost private beach and a cosy restaurant - café Bolas. In Azolimnos try Anemelia (+302281063000), where you can relax in well-equipped studios and apartments. Don’t forget to taste their homemade jam. ______________________________________________________

Where to eat & drink

In Ermoupolis: Mazi(+302281088811). Discover modern greek cuisine and spend hours in the restaurant’s secret garden. In Kini, Dyo tzitzikia st’ armirikia is the ultimate greek tavern (+302281071151), and serves fresh fish only by local fishermen, a perfect base for modern as well as traditional cuisine.

In Posidonia, a new arrival is Ono (+302281045099), a coastal complex which serves, among others, sushi prepared by Japanese chefs. Barola is a cafe-bar in the heart of the Cycladic capital combining interesting flavors and drinks with a pleasant, lively

atmosphere (+302281087513). In Ermoupoli, Elliniko (+302281089248), Tarsanas (+302281077667). In Kini: Stou Zaloni (+302281071211). In Azolimnos: Stis Filomilas (+302281062088). Stou Kontou for tsipouro (+302281061020). â&#x2013;

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TInOS

THE mAGNIFIcENT bluE OF THE AEGEAN Religious reverence, unmatched food, picturesque villages and a lot more, await the visitor on the island of Tinos.

Where to go

Obviously, Panagia of Tinos is a must, as is the red carpet on which pilgrims crawl on their knees on their way to the Virgin Mary church. History buffs should not miss the monument of Elli, the cruiser destroyed on the 15th of August 1940. Pyrgos is the largest village of Tinos and one of the most picturesque of the Cyclades. Do not bother going with a car, as they are not allowed there. After visiting the house of greek artist Chalepas, take a walk along the beautiful narrow routes and grab a coffee in the square with the grand plane tree (the revolution of 1821 on the island commenced on this spot). The Pisistrato aqueduct, which provided the town's water supply until 1934, is also a great site. The beautiful abbey of Ursulines at Loutra was founded in 1862 and is worth a visit. In its courtyard, you can enjoy multiple cultural events. In order to enter the village of Tarabado, you must pass under a Medieval arch before you can admire the infamous dovecotes of the 16th century. In order to find them, follow the instructions on the marble plaque. Isterinia, has been one of the most important centers for marble carving. The village of Isternia features a grandiose church, and a majestic view of the open sea, thanks to its panoramic location. Furthermore, one can visit the few museums of the island: Museum of marble carving (Pyrgos,+302283031290) which was built by the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural 88 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Foundation, the House - Museum of Giannoulis Chalepa (Pyrgos,+302283031262), the museum of contemporary art â&#x20AC;&#x153;Kostas Tsoklisâ&#x20AC;? (Kampos, +302283051009, open from May 1st to September 30th). ______________________________________________________

Where to swim

The most organized beach of the island, and its largest, is Aghios Fokas. It is accesible on foot from Chora. For peace and quiet, go a bit further up to the end of the beach at Kionia. When Northern winds hit the island, avoid Livada which has stones, rocks and deep waters. The beach of Rocharis in the North is organized too and is close to the beautiful village of Panormos. For quieter and remote escapes, try Aghios Petros which features fine sand and shallow waters. The church by the same name is located there since the 16th century. Pachia Ammos has huge sand-dunes and clean waters. If you fancy games on the sand, it will become your favourite. Another of the most beautiful beaches is Apigania. It is not accessed easily (lots of walking required), but you'll think it was well worth it, once you come across its beautiful crystal clear waters. Do not forget to bring drinking water with you . ______________________________________________________

Where to stay

If you prefer high aesthetics, in a magnificent space, do try Castria Studios, in Kionia (+306972984473). Rooms with handmade furniture and such a panoramic view of the blue Aegean sea, you will not want to leave. Stone, wood and natural elements dominate the space, while you can unwind in the totally Zen space of the pool and lose the sense of time. Near the harbour, an excellent choice is the Vincenzo Family Rooms (+302283025888). In Chora, Hotel Ageri (+302283025940). In Aghios Fokas, Golden Beach (+302283022579), is built next to a clean beach. In Aghios

ISlAnd EScApES

Ioannis Port, Porto Vlastos (+302283025229) offers apartments just 300 meters from the sea, while Porto Tango (4 stars, +302283024411) and Porto Raphael (+302283023913, which features a large garden for children, are also available. In Aghios Sostis, 5 miles from Chora, Cavos (+302283024224) is a good option. ______________________________________________________

Where to eat

For homemade pasta, produced daily and a pleasant atmosphere where everyone enjoys cocktails prepared by the awarded mixologist George Tsirikos, do pay a visit to Dough and Shaker (+302283031119), in Pyrgos. You should not leave without trying the sweet pizza! In Isternia, at Exo Meria (+302283031552), from 9 am until 5 pm, you can enjoy a tasteful brunch, with croque madame, eggs etc. With an unmatched balcony, the place serves food all day long – do try the homemade pizza, made with local ingredients. During the evening hours, it transforms into a bar, where live music is often played. Marathia is a restaurant by the seaside, next to Aghios Fokas beach (+302283023249). Nearby, you can find San to alati (+302283029266) in a beautiful location. In Chora, the beloved Itan ena mikro Karavi (+302283022818) offers Greek cuisine with a twist, based on local products. Located near the sea and operating in a yard filled with green is Aithrio o Markos (+302283023033). Definitely try the rustic omelet. In Panormos, go straight to Marina (+302283031314) for the exquisite “Fisherman’s pasta”. It contains great seafood. In Ormo of Isternia, Thalassaki (+302283031366) is a well-known tavern of Tinos. Built in a picturesque location, with a beautiful view of the sea, with a kitchen overseen by chef Antonia Zarpa, whose specilities include octopus with molasses, fish roe salad and boiled hake served with garlic sauce and dried caper, is a great choice. 90 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Where to have fun

You mustn't visit Tinos without going to legendary Koursaros (+302283023963), the oldest bar on the island, located by the harbour in an early 18th century building. Through its windows youhave a perfect view of the Aegean. In Isternia, taste the famous homemade lemonade at Magiou All-Day Bar (+302283031882) and do not forget to try the chocolate pie in a vase, Tip: The highlight of the bar is its ...WC the best on the island! This summer bar Cactus (+302283025930) is celebrating 27 years of operation: ethnic atmosphere and mojitos with a great view. In Panormos, for a beer go to Peri Anemon, for wine to 360 (+306947166369), and for chilling out by the beach to Rochari beach bar (+306972326036). At Argonaftis (+30228302104), you will experience intense dance nights, while enjoying great cocktails. Megalos Kafenes (+302283031647) in Pyrgos has been around for over 100 years. _____________________________________________________

Tips

For alternative and environmentally friendly jewellery, made from recycled stuff (beer cups to Nespresso capsules), do not forget to pass from Denou in the harbour (+306937013981). There you will also find marble artworks made by Tenian artisans, all at affordable prices. You can rent a bike or a car from a variety of vehicles offered by the family business Vidalis Rent a Car (+302283023400). There, the smiling and polite staff, will kindly deliver or retrieve your rented vehicle from your hotel, without extra charge! There are four operating offices throughout the island and you will have no problem locating one.Visit Ena Karo (+302283400027) in Chora for handmade soaps and beautiful small gifts ■

CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 91

ISlAnd EScApES

pAROS

A syNONym FOR GREEk summER Besides its beautiful beaches and resorts, Paros has a lot more to offer. The 4th century Byzantine church of Panayia Ekatontapiliani in Parikia, along with the ruins of the ancient temple of Apollonas and Dilio, the Castle, and the ruins of Asklipiio, are must-sees. The island also offers magnificent opportunities for walks through its Environmental & Cultural Park. An excursion through the road of Parikia

to Aliki, next to the river, and into the Valley of Butterflies is always a charm. Aliki’s Folklore Museum, the Dryo, and Kalpaki’s mesmerizing cave with stalactites and stalagmites will satisfy even the most demanding nature lovers. Finally, we highly recommend a pleasant day-trip to Antiparos, Paros’ “sister-island”. ______________________________________________________

Where to swim

Kolympithres is the most famous and popular beach of Paros, with sculpture-like rocks. Not far from Kolympithres, hidden and almost secluded, lies the beach of Babou, with stubbles running down to the water edge. Surfers will love the Golden Beach (Chrisi Akti), Pyrgaki and Glyfa Lolantonis, as well as Tserdakia on the southeast of the island. On the south and protected by the wind, lies the sandy Souvlia beach, with calm and shallow waters, ideal for children. In Santa Maria you can enjoy watersport facilities and a great beach-bar ideal for day parties. ______________________________________________________

Where to stay

Sunrise Apartments (+302284052180, www.sunriseparos.com) offer a great variety of accommodation ranging from budget rooms to luxurious apartments, all fully equipped and built around a series of small courtyards, just like a traditional Cycladic village. They include a pool, a bar and an impressive view to the gulf of Naousa. Other options are Kalipso (www.kalypso.gr, +302284051488), Arokaria Beach Studios (www.arokaria. gr, +302284051923) and Villa Konitopoulos (www.konitopoulos.gr, +302284091202). ______________________________________________________

Where to eat & drink

Giemeni, in Naoussa (+302284051445), is a traditional choice which offers excellent quality food. The restaurant Thalassa Mou (+302284091461) in Aliki offers a fine dining experience in an ideal setting by the sea. Mediterraneo (+302284053176) is a nice choice for fresh fish and really tasty seafood dishes. Before you leave the island, make sure to try the famous “loukoumades” (a greek version of doughnuts) in the renowned Paradosiakon. You will spot the place by the huge queue outside, but it’s definitely worth the wait. In Naoussa, you can find traditional products at Tripolitsiotis (+302284052527) and have a drink at Fouska (+302284051445). ■ 92 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

public Photo Mikaela Gabriela Marazoti

trAnsportAtion

thenians love their cars, but mainly due to the economic crisis and the improvement of facilities, the use of public transportation has increased over the years. the fastest means of transport remain the metro (red and blue lines) and isap (Green line, partly overGround).

By TAKIS SKRIVANOS

Athenians use the Metro, Buses and Trolleys for their daily commute – although in recent years bicycles have made their appearance as well. Running hours start from 05:30 until around midnight, except for the Tram (Mon-Thu 05:30-00:30, Fri-Sat 05:30-02:30) and the Metro that extends its hours until 02:20 on Fridays and Saturdays. Tickets cost €1.40, and are valid for all means of transportation and for as many journeys as you wish for up to 90 minutes after validation. If you are planning to move around a lot buy the daily ticket (€4.5). The five-day ticket costs €9. Ticket-control checks are frequent and if you’re caught without a ticket the fine is relatively high. To get to the ports of Rafina and Lavrio, you will need to use the intercity bus network (KTEL) departing from Pedion Areos park. For information call +302108808080 (06:00-22:00, information in English available). The Tram (perfect for a nice journey to the coastline but a bit slow) and Suburban Railway complete the city’s transportation network. ______________________________________________________

GettinG to the Airport

4 bus lines are available to get you to the airport, every 15-30 minutes, around the clock, for €6: the X93 departing from Kifisos Bus Station; the X95 from Syntagma Square; the X96 from Piraeus Port; and the X97 from Dafni Metro station.

Tickets can be bought on the bus. You can also get to the airport by metro or Suburban Railway (ticket price: €10). Airport journeys by Metro start at 05:30 and run every half-hour until 22:45. The Suburban Railway airport service starts at 06:00 and runs every 20 minutes until 23:00 (for enquiries call 14511). You can also take a taxi – but be sure to read our advice below first. ______________________________________________________

there Are oVer 14,000 tAxis runninG

Finding a yellow taxi is very easy in Athens and most drivers can communicate in English. Not many drivers will try to overcharge you, but you are advised to be careful and always ask for a receipt. Minimum taxi fare is 3,45 euros. The total fare almost doubles between midnight and 5.00 am. The fare to Eleftherios Venizelos Airport is fixed at €35 (€50 from 24:00 to 05:00), including luggage, VAT and tolls. A reliable and modern way to find a taxi is by using the following applications on your smartphone: taxibeat, uber and taxiplon at no extra cost. You can visit the profiles of registered taxi drivers and check the languages they speak and rate the driver afterwards. ■ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016 _ 93

Emergency Numbers

Aiport Police +302103536919 Coast Guard 108 ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400 Fire Service 199 Hospitals, Doctors, Pharmacies Info 14944 Police 100 SOS Doctors 1016 Tourist Police 171 Traffic Police +302105230111 Ambulance service 166 Emergency Police 100 Fire Service 199 Greek Railways OSE 14944

Piraeus Port

Authority +302104593000 Rafina Port Authority +302294023605 Lavrio Port Authority +302292025249 Eleftherios Venizelos 14944

International Airport +302103530000

98 _ CITY GUIDE SUMMER 2016

Hospitals Accident Hospitals Asklipieio Voulas Vassileos Pavlou 1,Voula, +302132163000 KAT Nikis 2, Kifissia, +302106280000 Public General Hospitals Evangelismos Ipsilantou 45-47, Evangelismos, +302132041000 Geniko Kratiko-Gennimatas Mesogion 154, Ethniki Amyna, +302132032000 Ippokratio Vas. Sofias 114, Ambelokipi, +302132088000 Laiko Agiou Thoma 17, Ambelokipi, +302132060800 Tzanio Afentouli & Tzani 1, Piraeus, +302132081000 Public Children’s Hospitals Agia Sofia Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou, Goudi, +302132013000 Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias, Goudi , +302132009000 Maternity Hospitals

Alexandra Vas. Sofias 80, Megaro Moussikis, +302132162000 • Elena Venizelou Elena Venizelou sq. 2, Ambelokipi , +302106432220 • Iaso Kifisias 37-39, +302106184000 • Leto Mouson 7-13, +302106902000 • Mitera Kifissias & Erithrou Stavrou 6, +302106869000

Embassies Albania Vekiareli 7, Filothei, +302106876200 Australia Kifissias 1-3, +302108704000 Austria Vas. Sofias 4, +302107257270 Belgium Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, +302103617886 Bulgaria Stratigou Kallari 33A, Psyhiko, +302106748106 Canada Ioannou Gennadiou 4, +302107273400 Cyprus Xenofontos 2A,+302103734800 Czech Republic Seferi 6, Psyhiko, +302106719701 Denmark Mourouzi 10 +302107256440 France Vas.Sofias 7, +302103391000 Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Kolonaki, +302107285111

Hungary Karneadou 25, Kolonaki, +302107256800 China Krinon 2A, Psyhiko, +302106723282 Ireland Vas. Konstantinou 5-7, +302107232771 Israel Marathonodromon 1, Psyhiko, +302106705500 Italy Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, +302103617260 Japan Ethnikis Antistaseos, +302106709900 Netherlands Vas. Konstantinou 5-7, +302107254900 Norway Vas. Sofias 23, +302107246173 Poland Chrysanthemon 22, Psyhiko, +302106797700 Romania Em. Benaki 7, Psyhiko,

+30210 6728875 Russia Nikiforou Lytra 28, Psyhiko, +302106725235 Serbia Vas. Sofias 106, +302107774344 Slovakia Georgiou Seferi 4, Psyhiko, +302106771980 South Africa Kifissias 60, Marousi, +302106106645 Spain Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, +302109213123 Sweden Vas. Konstantinou 7, +302107266100 Switzerland Iasiou 2, +302107230364 Turkey Vassileos Georgiou 8, +302107263000 UK Ploutarhou 1, +302107272600 USA Vas. Sofias 91, +302107212951