updated
2013 edition
including Chalkidiki
THESSALONIKI A VISUAL, VERBAL, UNUSUAL
AND WONDERFUL GUIDE TO THE COSMOPOLIS
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That’s the time I love the best Seasons in Thessaloniki “As I walk through the fragments of the palaces of Galerius, among the half covered mosaics, then on to the triumph of Kamara, towards your majestic Rotunda, a temple of the Nationals in the past, an orthodox Saint George afterwards, later an Islamic Mosque, I keep thinking that everyone claims you, poor city, you shall never be in peace. They have called you Thessaloniki, Saloniki, Salonik, Selianik, Saloniko. Little Constantinople and New Jerusalem. ‘Mother Thessaloniki’, that’s how they called you. And that’s exactly how we feel”.
Many have praised Greece’s second largest city. We’ve chosen this excerpt cause it belongs to a man who has honoured us. Thomas Korovinis won the 2011 National Literature Prize. Thessaloniki has become a prized guest in the last few years awards, since the poet Dinos Christianopoulos has also won the National Grand Prize for his lifelong contribution to the Greek craft of verse. We are telling you this story cause it says a lot about the city. A century after its liberation, Thessaloniki is a youthful, vibrant, peripheral center of great interest. Come see us. The Editorial Team
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Publisher Fotis Georgeles Editorial Director Dimitris Karathanos Art Director Dimitris Karathanos Graphic Design JV Illustrations Argiris Saraslanidis (Ser) Editorial Team Dimitris Athanasiadis, Lina Mandrakou, Vaya Matzaroglou, Stefanos Tsitsopoulos, Kosmas Mavridis, George Papageorgiou, George Bakas Special Contributor Victoria Hislop Copy Editor Lina Mandrakou IT Manager Vaios Syntsirmas
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Photography Dimitris Karathanos (unless where noted) Cover Art Paris Koutsikos Advertising Director Louiza Nathanail Director of Commercial Development Nikos Tsouanatos Key Account Managers Anastasia Bafouni Direct Market Manager Vassilis Zarkadoulas Accounting Director Efi Mourtzi Accounting Sotiria Psichogiou Copyright ATHENS VOICE 2013 All rights reserved. No part of this publica足tion may be reproduced in any form with足out written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.
Cover Artist Paris Koutsikos (parisko) is a graphic artist born in Florence in 1967 and is based in Athens, Greece. He studied Visual Communication Design in Athens (AKTO) and in London (Middlesex University). For 12 years he has been responsible for the art direction of OXY Pbl., a publishing house which, since its founding in 1995 till 2007, gained many distinctions in various contests and had a great impact at the greek graphic design. Since 2007, he experiments in a wide range of different graphic applications including murals (with his friend and collaborator Alexandros Vasmoulakis - www. vasmou.com), as well as typography, collage, painting, illustration, installations and, lately, silk screen printing with Athens-based designer and printer Tind (www.tind.gr). His main purpose is experimenting and communicating using graphic design as a tool.
Further info paris koutsikos www.parisko.com Book design www.parisko1.tumblr.com Screen printing www.parisko2.tumblr.com Murals www.parisko3.tumblr.com Illustration / Typography www.parisko4.tumblr.com www.behance.net/pariskoutsikos www.flickr.com/parisko tel.: +30 6974482811 In this edition’s cover image parisko collaborated with Marina Genadieva, student of the Athens Fine Arts School (her work can be found at flickr).
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Stop being a tourist!
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Rock of Ages: A Brief History Lesson
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Districts of Thessaloniki_____20
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Adventures in Culture
Thessaloniki Through Architecture
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That’s Entertainment 50 Ten Things to Do Before You Leave
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Shop Around More Than Just Hotels
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Chalkidiki: Destination Paradise 90
_______Phoneography 6
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Top
STOP BEING A TOURIST! Key phrases you have to know in order to familiarize yourself with the city. “Thessaloniki, erotiki poli” / Thessaloniki, erotic city. The Athenian cliché says that Thessaloniki is the most erotic city of Greece. Don’t believe the hype! The L in bold / The citizens of Thessaloniki pronounce the letter “l” bold, like the Catalans. Kardasi / A way to say “yo, bro!”. In plural: kardasia. For familiar use only. Halara / Relax, take it easy. It’s a way of life, it’s a point of view, it’s the city’s motto. Frappé / The official city’s cold coffee
a hedonistic night out. It protects against hangovers. Tsoureki / The traditional city’s cake. Greeks use to eat tsoureki only during Easter. In Thessaloniki, any day is tsoureki day! Koutra / Free of charge (slang). “Kamara se 5” / See you in Kamara in five minutes. The Arch of Galerius is the meeting point for the young students and protesters. “Fisai Vardaris” / Vardaris is a cold wind blowing from the north. When it blows, it offers a clear view of the
drink. Reflects the “halara” way of life, given that ordering a glass of frappé at a café you may enjoy careless relaxation and small talk for hours. Bougatsa / The traditional delicious city’s pie (with cheese or with cream). Try bougatsa for breakfast or after
Olympus mountain. “San ti Chalkidiki den ehei” / There is no place like Chalkidiki. The people of Thessaloniki are very proud for the beaches of Chalkidiki. They believe that Chalkidiki’s beaches are among the most beautiful in the world! True!
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Guest editor
Thessaloniki A multicultural Cosmopolis Welcome to Thessaloniki. On the course of the following pages you will be able to find all the information necessary to get acquainted with the
breed, in being one of a kind. Our story is a history dating back to the mists of time, and our stakes are particularly high at this moment, since we are
city in the best of all possible ways. This is a city consisting of hidden charms and obvious joys, manifesting itself through culture, history, entertainment, rhythm and personality. Though between us, it is known by definition that, however ample a city guide may be, it cannot substitute the solid experience that can be obtained through exploring Thessaloniki in order to fully appreciate it. Thus, let the following pages be approached as a starting point, wherein you can discover an atmosphere of unique ambience, designed to transport you as soon as you let yourself to be inspired by it. We take pride in considering ourselves an exceptional
challenged to work a way out of a crisis through highlighting our extrovert, creative, multicultural nature. We are determined to make it happen! So get out there and explore the city in every aspect, get in touch with it, enjoy it, become inseparable with it. Because its ultimate charisma is, that it denies itself to no one willing to embrace it. For a while, or forever. Bold, pioneering, youthful, explosive and pulsating, the Thessaloniki you are about to leaf through, proves itself a multicultural crossroad.
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Spiros Pengas (Appointed Councilor for Tourism and International Relations, City of Thessaloniki)
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THESSALONIKI A Brief History Lesson
Rock of Ages Illustration by SER
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316 BC: Origins of the name “Thessaloniki” can be tracked right after the king Phillip II succeeds a decisive military victory at the Battle of Crocus Field against a war tribe in Thessaly with the help of Thessalian horsemen. Phillip’s daughter of the same name, half sister of Alexander the Great, grew up to marry the Macedonian general Kassandros, who in his turn decided to honour his wife by naming the city after her. 168 BC: Gory battles between Romans and Macedonians result in the former conquering the area which then becomes a roman subordinate province. Thessaloniki soon becomes capital of one of the four Roman districts of Macedonia. A strategic key-point, the city is located ideally on the Thermaikos Gulf and the east-west Via Egnatia. Additionally, Thessaloniki’s proximity to the Axios / Vardar River valley corridor provides a crucial northern gateway to the Balkans, thus, helping it become a leading commercial center, but also the subject of continuous warfare. 50-57: A Jewish community begins to take form. Soon the Apostle Paul visits in order to preach in the Jewish synagogue, establishing the first Christian church. His two letters to the Christian community of the city have been renowned ever since as the Epistles to the Thessalonians. The city is rapidly becoming an early center of Christianity. 306: St. Demetrius becomes the city’s patron saint after being credited with a number of miracles that saved Thessaloniki. Formerly a roman prison, the church of Saint Demetrius was first built by the Roman sub-prefect of Illyricum Leontios in 463. Nowadays, the church is part of the site Paleochristian and Byzantine monuments of Thessaloniki on the list of World Heritage Sites by Unesco. 379: When the Roman Prefecture of Illyricum is divided between East and West Roman Empires, Thessaloniki becomes the capital of the new prefecture, second only to Constantinople itself.
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390: Thessaloniki becomes the location of a revolt against the emperor Theodosius I and his Gothic mercenaries. As a result, 7,000 – 15,000 citizens were massacred in the city’s hippodrome in revenge, an act which earned Theodosius a temporary excommunication. 1204: The city passes out of Byzantine hands when Constantinople gets captured by the Fourth Crusade. It becomes the largest fief of the Roman Empire. 1246: Thessaloniki is recovered by the Byzantine Empire. 1423: The Despot Andronicus, who was in charge of the city, handles it to the Republic of Venice in hope that it would be protected by the assaulting Ottomans. 1430: On 29 March, the Ottoman Sultan Murad II captures Thessaloniki and leads the brutal massacre and enslavement of one-fifth of the inhabitants, many of whom committed escape. 1519: Under Ottoman authority, the city’s Jewish population grows. For the next two centuries, Thessaloniki is the largest Jewish city in the world, heralded by many as “mother of Israel”. 1881: The founder of the Young Turk movement as well as of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk is born in Thessaloniki. 1912: During the First Balkan War, on 26th October, the symbolic day the city celebrates Demetrius, its patron saint, the Greek army accepts the surrender of the Ottoman garrison at Thessaloniki. 1917: The catastrophic fire of 18th August destroys most of the old town, leaving some 72,000 homeless, mostly among the Turkish community.
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1941: On 22 April the city falls under German occupation. The city suffers considerable damage from Allied bombing. During World War II, 50,000 of the city’s Jews are deported to concentration camps, where most are murdered in gas chambers. 1963: On 22 May, soon after he had delivered a key-note speech at an anti-war meeting in Thessaloniki, Gregoris Lambrakis, politician, physician, athlete, pacifist, activist, leading member of the United Democratic Left was assassinated. Two far-right extremists, Emannouel Emannouilides and Spyros Gotzamanis driving a vehicle, struck Lambrakis with a club at the head in plain view. Suffering incurable brain injuries, Lambrakis died in the hospital five days later, becoming a national symbol against political repression. His life and death were chronicled in the novel “Z”, by Vassilis Vassilikos, later a great cinema success thanks to the movie by Greek – French director Kosta Gavras. 1978: The city gets hit by a powerful earthquake, registering a moment magnitude of 6.5. The tremor causes tremendous damage to several buildings and ancient monuments. Fourty people are crushed to death and an entire apartment block collapses at the Hippodromio district. 1997: Thessaloniki becomes European City of Culture and is taking advantage of the honour by renewing a great number of its infrastructures and hosting numerous acclaimed cultural events. 2004: Thessaloniki hosts a number of football events as part of the 2004 Athens Olympics. 2012: The city celebrates a century of independence.
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Modiano Market Ladadika Polytechneiou, Tsimiski, Salaminos, Ionos Dragoumi and Kountouriotou Streets. Bordered by
The city’s old commercial center which had fallen into decadence has been drawn out of neglect during Thessaloniki’s European Capital of Culture period, in 1997, whereas it was completely renovated and inhabited by a new industry, this time of the form of restaurants, cafes, bars and hotels. Its industrial origins can still be traced, especially in terms of architecture.
Bus routes: 3, 5, 6, 12, 33.
Vassileos Irakleiou Ermou Streets.
Bordered by and Balkan folklore in full glory in this district that looks like it jumped out of an Emir Kusturica film. The noisiest, most lively and colourful market of Thessaloniki, offering daily goods
of all sorts: fruit and vegetables, fish, meat, bread and pastry, pies, nuts, herbs, spices, almost anything you can put your mind to, basically. The district is overflowing with shops and once too often you can find yourself crossing elbows with other people in order to get first to the goods that caught your eye. On top of that, the Louloudadika market, the city’s biggest flower market, is located at the heart of Modiano. Bus routes: 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 12, 15, 16, 20, 21, 25, 27, 29, 31, 32, 37, 58, 78.
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This is where Thessaloniki puts its smartest shoes in an effort to meet the European metropolis. The melting pot of modern urbania, where the young and the beautiful flirts with its own image on display windows and where the eternal desire to see and be seen is suppressed only by the exhaustion of another day-long shopping marathon. Endless lines in front of the huge department stores’ cash desks, ATM’s working full time, traffic policemen hopelessly trying to organize the chaos, desperate taxi drivers stuck in the bottling traffic, the human beehives of sidewalks and pedestrian crosses. Almost anything you need can be found here: from clothes and technology devices to books and magazines. The “Plateia” shopping center is a universe on its own: teenagers exchange their first kisses providing a romantic canvas against the backdrop of coffee aficionados who relax in the surrounding shops, whilst film goers order their tickets for the night from the cinema complex. Most notably, Aristotelous is renowned for its lively cafè scene.
Bus routes: 3, 5, 6, 12, 58, 78.
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A widening path of endless possibilities. A walk from the port to the
White Tower and deep into
the recently constructed Nea Paralia site, up to the Megaron Mousikis, can be as invigorating as any 3km stroll beside the sea is, and therefore could and should be rewarded with a steaming latte or a frozen freddo cappuccino in any of the magnificent cafes who, thanks to their quality of service and idyllic location have given Thessaloniki the characterization of “coffee capital of Greece�. More than a habit, coffee drinking in Thessaloniki is part of the local culture and a daily visit at Leoforos Nikis is almost ceremonial to locals. Bus routes as shown on Tsimiski and Mitropoleos districts.
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Bordered by
Lagada and
Katsimidou Streets.
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What used to be the city’s most central market up until the early eighties is now a discount area, or rather a low budget Tsimiski. It’s true that you won’t find any of the trendy labels here, but the presence of many different ethnicities, cultures and languages can offer some of the most diverse, stylistically intriguing opportunities for the adventurous personalities. Besides, Egnatia is one of the liveliest districts of the city, with a huge market, many office buildings and innumerable students who choose to live in this part of the city due to the cheaper rent prices. Many sites of archaeological interest to be found here, whilst the Bit Pazar area, with its graphic little taverns, the “meze” delicacies and homemade retsina and wines should not be bypassed without a visit.
Bus routes: 2, 8, 14, 17, 20, 21, 25, 27, 29, 31, 32, 37. 27
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Bordered by Olympiados, Eptapyrgiou, Elenis Zografou Streets and Sykies.
Universally unparalleled in its postcardlike beauty and its sublime fusion of diverse religion and ethnicity elements, Ano Poli, (Greek for Upper Town), is naturally situated at the Its architectural uniqueness, an almost theatrical reproduction of the past, is secured by law of the state, so thankfully the district will remain unchanged in the future. Ano Poli is surrounded by
highest spot of the city.
castles of the Byzantine period and churches that
date back to the 14th century. Perhaps it is this aura of couleur locale that attracts so many of the city’s youth at its old, but too often thoroughly renovated and relatively cheap apartments.
Bus routes: 22, 23, 24, 50. 29
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Aristotelous Square and Nikiforou Foka Street. To put it simBordered by
ply, if the impossible was bound to happen and Carrie Brandshaw was about to land on city grounds, this is where she’d start in order to embark on a serious shopping spree. For these streets are the boudoirs of expensive shops for expensive tastes. Compared to Proxenou Koromila street, Mitropoleos is somehow livelier, with trendy cafes, fast food and souvlaki canteens blending happily with the stores. On the other hand, Proxenou Koromila lives up to the ambition of being a compressed version of the Athenian Kolonaki district, providing the elite of boutiques, department stores and local designers’ salons.
Bus routes: 3, 5, 6, 12, 58, 78. 31
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A symbol of the city’s diversity and multicultural spirit, Navarino Square is part an open air exhibition, hosting some of the most interesting ancient ruins of Thessaloniki, part a surreal collage of the counterculture,
with punks, metalheads, rappers, hipsters and rastafaris prowling the area on a 24/7 basis. Alcohol and drug consumption is part of the Navarino underground’s lifestyle but it is not reckless, so the district is relatively safe at all times. Navarino also has some of the most interesting bookshops around, as well as a great number of second-hand record stores, (touring artists never fail to pay a visit, especially rap producers), skate, accessories and folk art stores, along with the obligatory cafes and fast food stalls.
Bus routes: 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 12, 15, 16, 20, 21, 25, 27, 29, 31, 32, 37, 58, 78. 33
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High living standards in affordable prices within reach from the downtown. A large number of attractions await the visitor here. From the
“Mediterranean Cosmos”, “Apollonia Politeia” and “Macedonia” shopping malls, to the “Village Center” and “Ster Cinema” multiplexes, as well as the numerous by-the-sea cafes and legendary fish taverns, the Kalamaria area marks the Eastern Suburbs limits of Thessaloniki. Bus routes: 3, 5, 6, 7.
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Western Suburbs
Vardaris Monastiriou, Anagenisseos, Sidirodromikou Stathmou Streets and the New Western Gate. Bordered by
An erotic epicenter of legendary status, Vardaris is the district that used to house all the city’s brothels, porn cinemas, strip clubs and basically anything capable of honing the passer-by with an aura of bad reputation. All this belongs in the past now, though the occasional strip club exists and the older red lights have been substituted by the red lamps of Chinese shops, since a large part of the Vardaris district, mainly around the Anagenisseos streets, is rapidly turning into a local Chinatown. Bus routes: 2, 3, 8, 20, 21, 25, 27, 29, 31, 32, 37.
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Bordered by Lagada Street, the Thessaloniki Ring Road and Nea Ionia. An enormous chunk of urban environment that consists of Stavroupoli, Ambelokipi, Menemeni, Evosmos, Kordellio, Ilioupoli and Nikopolis, the west side is best known as “the edge of the city”. A project in the making, the western suburbs are offering new housing solutions in an everexpanding city that’s trying its limits. Not much to offer to the visitor, in terms of sight-seeing, but the City Gate shopping center and especially the Moni Lazariston complex, with its museum, concert space and theater are both a great option. Bus routes: 18, 19, 20, 21, 27, 29, 32.
Double fantasy. Reflecting upon oneself under an idyllic twilight in the coastline of Megalou Alexandrou street. 37
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Archaeological Museum Manoli Andronikou 6, (+30) 2310 830 538, www.amth.gr Chronologically, the museum narrative begins on the lower level with the exhibition “5,000, 15,000, 200,000 years ago … An exhibition about life in prehistoric Macedonia.” The section “Towards the birth of cities …” presents the material remains from settlements and cemeteries dating to the Iron Age (1100-700 BC) in the region extending between Mt. Athos and Olympus. The permanent exhibition also includes the “Macedonia from the 7th BC until late antiquity”, “Thessaloniki, The Metropolis of Macedonia”, recreating the unique role played by Thessaloniki during the Roman period, and finally, “The Gold of Macedon” thematic.
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The walls of Thessaloniki captured by Frederic Boissonnas, 1913. Part of the ongoing Museum of Photography’s exhibition: “Beyond History: Thessaloniki through photography”.
Museum of Photography Port of Thessaloniki, Warehouse A, (+30) 2310 566 716, www.thmphoto.gr The museum plays a pivotal role in the city’s cultural environment, due to its constant artistic activity. Its goals include organising exhibitions and publications, supporting historical research and criticism on the subject of Greek photography, creating an updated library with titles and documents of Greek and international photographic literature, as well as enriching its own collection with donations and purchases of historical and contemporary photographic works by Greek and foreign photographers.
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State Museum Of Contemporary Art Kolokotroni 21, Moni Lazariston, Stavroupoli, (+30) 2310 589 140 / 1 www.greekstatemuseum.com/kmst If you were to visit a single museum in this city, it is strongly suggested that you try this. Housed in a renovated monastery in the western district of Stavroupoli, its pride and joy is the huge Costaki collection. Including 1.275 masterpieces of Russian avant garde artists of the 1890 – 1930 period, the collection covers every art movement which appeared at the time in Russia, such as neo-primitivism, suprematism, constructivism and futurism. Representative of all the trends and tendencies of one of the most interesting periods in international art history, the collection offers the chance to the visitor to witness the works of Vasilii Kandinski, Liubov Popova, Kazimir Malevich, Aleksandr Rodchenko and other colossal figures of the early 20th century.
Macedonian Museum of Contemporary Art Helexpo, Egnatia 154, (+30) 2310 240 002, www.mmca.org.gr The first museum of contemporary art in Greece. This is where the internationally acclaimed collector Alexandros Iolas chose to donate thirty works of global fame. Which should speak for itself about MMCA’s importance. Standing out as the institution that endlessly promotes Greek and foreign art, the Macedonian often loans works to other European museums, publishes collectable catalogues of its exhibitions, organizes special programs and holds lectures. Warhol, Akrithakis, Beuys, Takis, Fassianos, Zongolopoulos are just a few of the artists of the permanent collection.
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Peruvian novelist Santiago Roncagliolo at the State Museum of Contemporary Art, 2013.
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Thessaloniki Center of Contemporary Art Warehouse B1, Port Area, +30 (2310) 546 683, www.cact.gr Promoting new media and contemporary art techniques in a minimalistic environment.
Museum Of Byzantine Culture Leoforos Stratou 2, (+30) 2310 306 400, www.mbp.gr With Thessaloniki being the most “Byzantine” of all Greek cities, a museum representing the various aspects of life during the Byzantine and Postbyzantine periods, such as art, ideology, social structure and religion, was more than necessary in order to provide hindsight to historical changes. The 11 rooms that comprise the museum’s permanent exhibition opened gradually to the public from 1997 to early 2004. The collection is organized chronologically, beginning with early Christian period church specimens, continuing to the middle Byzantine period, where archaeological materials and panels offer a tour to the Iconoclasm movement, the spiritual and cultural acme that the Komnenian dynasty has been to the empire, all the way to the twilight of the final conquest by the Ottoman Turks in 1453. Byzantium after byzantine is the last part of the exhibition, concerned with the period between the fall of Constantinople and the end of the 19th century, mostly through religious paintings. The “discovering the past” section, marks the epilogue to an adventurous history lesson provided by the MBC.
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Teloglion Foundation Of Art
 Aristotle University of Thessaloniki Agiou Dimitriou 159A, (+30) 2310 247 111, www.teloglion.gr Constructed nearby the campus site of Aristotle University, Teloglion fuses impressive design with a continuous effort to promote art. Apart from exhibitions, Teloglion organizes educational programs, symposiums and seminars. The centerpiece of the foundation is the Nestoras and Aliki Teloglou collection: idols, mainly from Hellenistic times, Corinthian, Hellenistic and Roman urns, Persian miniatures, specimens of Arabian and Chinese art such as vases, wall hangings and plates, as well as Thai wood carvings produce just a part of a stunning collection. The main core of the collection though, is the works of significant Greek artists of the 19th and 20th centuries, represented by oil paintings, water colours, drawings, engravings, sculptures and a notable collection of ceramics.
National Bank of Greece Cultural Foundation (MIET) Vasilisis Olgas 108, (+30) 2310 834 404, www.miet.gr Various expressions of art such as paintings, prints, photography and architecture, are blended with the history and micro-history of the city and its environs.
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On a historic course that spans over 23 centuries of continuous history, Thessaloniki was shaped by a variety of different ethnicities. The city’s architecture is an emblem of its rich cultural diversity. The new City Hall Designed by leading Athenian architects Tassos Mpiris, his late brother Dimitris and associates, the new City Hall is on the corner of Vassileos Georgiou and Tritis Septemvriou streets in a central location already replete with notable architecture, including the Archaeological Museum designed by Patroklos Karantinos and the Museum of Byzantine Culture designed by Kyriakos Krokos. The total area is 14,000 square meters, yet the building does not look pompous, neither massive due to the way it is shaped and distributed. (Vassileos Georgiou A’ 1)
The Cultural Center of MIET Privileged to be housed in a unique early twentieth century building, one of the few surviving villas of old Thessaloniki, it’s worth the visit both as a sight of architectural interest and as an exhibition center. (Vasilissis Olgas 108).
The new City Hall.
The Red House Across the church of Agia Sofia, at the intersection of Agias Sofias 31and Ermou 52 streets, the Red House is a majestic, albeit sad affair, standing silent and derelict, awaiting to be restored. Abandoned due to a mixture of complicated inheritance issues and state indifference, the otherwise known as “Loggos Mansion” was built between 1926 and 1928. 47
Aristotelous Square
Casa Bianca
Designed by the French architect, archaeologist and urban planner Hernest Hebrard, who was summoned by the Greek government in order to reconstruct a city devastated by the massive fire of 1917, the square symbolizes the rupture between the city’s Ottoman past and it’s European aspirations for the future. Tall arches, influenced by the Byzantine rhythm, metropolitan European motifs, christian platings in the balconies.
An excellent monument of art nouveau mixed with hints of neoclassical eclecticism, build by Piero Arrigoni between 1911-1913, it was the house of Dino Fernandez - Diaz, an Italian Jew. Now it’s used by the municipality of Thessaloniki for numerous events and art exhibitions. (Vassilisis Olgas 214) Culture and religion at the Rotonta.
The buildings of the historic banks: Ethniki, Ellados and Ioniki-Laiki (now Alpha Bank) Gathered close together in the financial and commercial centre of the city, on Tsimiski, Ionos Dragoumi and Mitropoleos streets, the main offices of the Ethniki Bank and the Bank of Greece (Ellados) form a single building complex, constructed in 1928 on behalf of Ethniki Bank by architects A. Valvis and I. Isigonis. This is a characteristic example of inter-war eclecticism. Characteristic features of the facades are the propylon in the Doric order on Tsimiski Street and the tall columns with their Corinthian capitals which support a projecting cornice on Dragoumi and Mitropoleos Streets. 48
Thessaloniki Port and Passenger Terminal Built in 1910 by Eli Modiano, the terminal, apart from transportation services, nowadays houses various commercial and cultural facilities, is characteristic of the industrial aesthetic that was dominating Europe during late 19th and early 20th century.
Eli Modiano’s glorious Passenger Terminal.
Other sites of interest Rotonta. Built in the 4th century A.D. (Kamara) The Arch of Galerius. (Dimitriou Gounari 43-47) The Walls of Thessaloniki. (Ano Poli) The Christian church of Agia Sofia. Built in the 9th century A.D. (Agias Sofias square) The Christian church of Agios Dimitrios. Built in the 5th century A.D (Agiou Dimitriou 97) The administration building of Thessaloniki. Built in 1891 by the Italian architect Vitaliano Poselli (Filimona Dragoumi & Agiou Dimitriou) Villa Allatini. Built in 1896 by the Italian arcitect Vitaliano Poselli (Vasilissis Olgas 198) Papafio orphanage. Built in 1894 by the architect Xenofontas Paeonidis (Papafi 33) Villa Morntoh. Built in 1905 by Xenofontas Paeonidis (Vasilissis Olgas 162) University faculty of philosophy. Built in 1887 by Vitaliano Poselli (University campus, Egnatia st.) Genti Koule. Built in 1431 (Eptapyrgio) The museum of the Macedonian conflict. Built in 1890 by the architect Ernst Ziller (Proksenou Koromila 23) Alatza Imaret. Built in 1484 (Kassandrou 91) Catholic church. In 1742 (Fragon 19) 49
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L. Nikis 21, Τ +30 2310 239 842, Thessaloniki
www.thermaikos.net
.ES Fragon 2-4,
Bristol Georgiou Papandreou 24, (+30) 2310 867 448 A traditional British pub. Coffee and tea by early morning with the transition to stronger spirits available as soon as the mood takes you. The Murphy’s red or bitter, the Fischer’s a crispy, fresh lager and naturally the unmistakably superb Erdinger Weissbräu is always at your disposal. Bottled beers include various lager, pilsener, ale, monastery brands, all accompanied by a full British menu card.
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(+30) 2310 532 503 With a reference to Spain’s world wide web acronym in its name, .ES naturally relies heavily on its influences by the land of flamenco, without necessarily being limited to that. Mediterranean cuisine for those of you with an inclination towards experimentality. .ES is also an institution for modern art, with a constant array of painting and photography exhibitions.
Cityzen Paleon Patron Germanou 12, (+30) 2310 413 213 Refined wood and charcoal - black surfaces illuminating the dominating glassware offer all the atmosphere you need on a busy workday. Great design, beautiful tables and chairs, innumerable varieties of aromatic coffee, plus a list of 90 rare wine etiquettes. Relax and enjoy watching all types of locals passing in front of you.
Now open all day! G. PAPANDREOU 29 - ANTHEON P: (+30) 2310 869 331
De Facto Pavlou Mela 19, (+30) 2310 263 674 Strongly opinionated on a variety of matters, from good coffee to heavenly music to essential literature, this is a frequent meeting point for most of Salonica’s downtown. Constantly renewed photo and art exhibitions, a large collection of malt whiskeys, specialized cocktail summer list, frequently renovated. A true classic.
Estrella Pavlou Mela 48, (+30) 2310 272 045 Coffee, Mediterranean food, homemade pies, yogurt served in marmalade jars, great jazz and indie pop tunes, a huge variety of beers. To add a pinch of gusto to good taste, Estrella is simultaneously a late night bar with tons of attitude.
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Efimerida Filikis Eterias 11, White Tower, facebook.com/EfimeridaCafe Drink gallery, wine bar, urban art gallery, an unpremeditated place to be for all enthusiasts of freestyle in both attitude and essence. Decorated by a renowned local surrealist artist and complemented by a complete collection of national urban bible, SOUL magazine, this is a more than convenient 24 hour spot, servicing breakfasts, brunches, lunches, fingerfood, along the lines of bright young people.
Habanera Georgiou Papandreou 29,
Freideriko, agapi mou Olympou 87, (+30) 2310 238 532 Named after the legendary dog who introduced itself as a puppy and has gradually grown to become an affectionate, albeit phlegmatic adult, Freiderikos is the master of a stateof-the-art house that is surrounded by embroidered frames, delicate pastels, colorful Muranos vases and a variety of rare glassware. An institution for fans of pop culture, Freiderikos is the definitive cafe-bar with a sense of humour. The old movie posters celebrate kitchy filmic greekadelia, whereas the cuckoo clock on the wall strikes punctually at cocktail time. For a mere five euros, try the Apricot Royal. You’ll keep coming back for more.
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(+30) 2310 869 331 The city’s most popular Caribbean restaurant. Local specialties from Cuba, Jamaica, the Domenican Republic, Puerto Rico or Trinidad. Another notable detail about Habanera is its ability to offer a number of different design styles under one roof without distracting from the architectural quality of the original building. Exquisite cocktails such as the self-titled Habanera are must.
Local Espresso Bar Paleon Patron Germanou 17, (+30) 2310 223 307 The espresso is always good, strong and prepared by the most qualified team of baristas this city has known. The interior is crowded at all hours, so if you fancy a stand or a barstool, make sure to be early. Top of the moment music, expertly conceived cocktails, freshly made daily dishes and a very thorough wine catalogue add much more than coffee grounds to this classic meeting point.
Maδrigal: Bar y Tapas Thalitos 29, Poseidonio, (+30) 2310 429 419 An enjoyable tapas bar. Delicacies include the likes of Pa Amb Oli, Queso Manchego, Mejillones a la Catalana, Paella Valenciana and Paella Des Vegetables! So many delicious temptations, so many different tastes of Spain at your disposal! Make sure to not forget the desserts. Helados y Galletas, ie vanilla ice cream with cookies and chocolate sauce. Yummy!
Mpakalikon Navarino Squ. 7, (+30) 2310 227 676, mpakalikon.gr
Worth multiple visits if only for a unique specialty, the best buffalo burger in town. In accordance with the more traditionally orientated clientele, the menu includes a variety of roasted meats, the best Greek cheeses, halloumi and Kefalotyri, fine red and white wines. All this in an enchanting environment, made up of vintage grayscale images of Thessaloniki.
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Mavro Provato Syggrou 11 Aka Black Sheep, but with many different ways to soothe your soul. The rock idiom naturally dominates, exercised by famous djs, and cheered along by big crowds. Mostly anything goes here, depending on the mood and the day. A good option for any weekday, the tension rises accordingly with the volume during weekends.
P. P. Germanou 12, T: (+30) 2310 413 213
Paparouna Paggaiou 4, (+30) 2310 510 852 Paparouna has never disappointed in keeping a high standard of quality whilst attracting the city’s most diverse and colorful clientele. From artists and students to public officers or businessmen. Fine menu, one of the vastest wine selections, with more than 250 local and international etiquettes to choose from.
Thermaikos Leoforos Nikis 21, (+30) 2310 239 842 Α reminder of a period when Thessaloniki was oozing glamour, progressive sounds and trends. Still essential after all those years, one can’t but admire the design details.
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Mistra 12 & Konstantinou Paleologou 6, Pilaia, Thessaloniki, T: (+30) 2310 318 169
Astoria
Elite
Navarinou Square 17,
Navarinou Square 14,
(+30) 2310 220 975 One of the best looking coffee shops around Navarinou Square, surrounded by ancient ruins.
(+30) 2310 228 808 Football discussions, backgammon games, lively at any given hour.
Brasserie Garcon
Valaoritou 29,
Leoforos Nikis & Agias Sofias 2, (+30) 2310 253 033
Fragile
Breakfast, sunny lunch breaks,
(+30) 6982 964 834 Is the only bar in town situated on a rooftop.
creamy risottos, fillets and pastas al dente. The best view in town.
Haven
Chontro Alati Ermou 26, (+30) 2310 281 556 The freshest fish in the piqaresque neighborhood of Agora Modiano. Make sure not to miss an all time favorite dish like oysters, right out of the sea, boiled and rinsed with lemon.
Rogoti 4, (+30) 2310 261 271 One of the city’s most stylish venues.
Ifilios Proksenou Koromila 1, (+30) 2310 280 655 Art nouveau meets an ethnic fusion with global exotica.
El Burrito
Kitchen Bar
Chrisostomou Smyrnis 5,
Limani, Warehouse B,
(+30) 2310 220 662 An adorable cantina Mexicana & coctaileria. Burritos, tacos, fajitas, ensaladas, exceptional cocktails.
(+30) 2310 502 241 Location by the sea, excellent view, international cuisine. Also an ideal place to enjoy a coffee.
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Thalitos 29, Posidonio, Thessaloniki T: (+30) 2310 429 419
Ladoze Art Cocktail Bar
Pulp
Vilara 1 Radiating youthful energy and sex appeal, this is as trendy and artistic as you can get.
(+30) 2310 270 830 Andy Warhol, Johnny Cash and Ramones live! And reside in this cozy pub!
Le Monde
The Rover Hangover
Maria Kallas 3,
Salaminos 6, Ladadika,
(+30) 2313 038 414 At popular Posidonio area,
(+30) 2310 544 304 It’s only rock n roll and we love it!
a modern, casual cafĂŠ bar. The cocktail and wine menu is as brilliant as the sandwich and cold dish catalogue.
Mojito Mistra 12 & Konstantinou Palaiologou 6, Pilea, (+30) 2310 318 169 Small bar, huge and juicy cocktails, great music.
Olympion Aristotelous 10, (+30) 2310 278 920 A not to be missed destination.
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Aleksandrou Svolou 8,
Shark Argonafton 2 & Themistokli Sofouli, (+30) 2310 416 855, (+30) 2310 416 856, (+30) 2310 421 606 A combination of cool glamour and warm hospitality.
Simply Burgers Mediterranean Cosmos, (+30) 2310 383 048 www.simplyburgers.gr International cuisine, 100% fresh ground beef, homemade sauces and marinades.
T.G.I. Fridays Aristotelous Square 3, (+30) 2310 242 914 Delicious Tex Mex burgers.
The Excelsior Bistro Komninon 10 & Mitropoleos 23, (+30) 2310 021 020 European food restaurant with class and excellent tastes.
The Real Rocknrolla Valaoritou 31, (+30) 2313 037 828 One city under a groove.
Tiffany’s Iktinou 3, (+30) 2310 274022, tiffanys.gr Operates since 1970 and has managed to remain faithful to its style ever since. Excellent greek traditional food and daily dishes.
To Mikro Iktinou 12, (+30) 2310 283 181 A cute café bar at Iktinou. You can choose between a couch and a table in the courtyard
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10 THINGS TO DO BEFORE YOU LEAVE
Guest Editor Victoria Hislop Another view, by Greece’s most celebrated British novelist. Thessaloniki loves Victoria Hislop, and the author loves the city back. 68
1.STROLL - along the
esplanade by to the sea, from Eleftherias Square (have a look at the Holocaust memorial while you are there) to the Megaro Musikis. It’s magical from dawn to dusk, in rain or shine.
2.BUY a freshly-made
“trigono” from Elenidis (corner of Tsimiski and Gounari), eat it immediately, in the street, and lick your fingers.
3.CLIMB the hill to the Upper Town and find the tiny Church of Nikolaos Orfanos (Irodotou 20) which contains heart-stoppingly beautiful frescoes. 70
4.MARVEL at the
magnificent Rotunda of Galerius (designed to be a mausoleum, used as a church, transformed into a mosque).
5.VISIT the Jewish
Museum (Agiou Mina 13) for the tragic story of the city’s once thriving Jewish population.
6.SHOP in Mitropoleos
Street for a dress - and have it tailored to fit by a resident seamstress - for men, buy a shirt somewhere.
7.BRAVE the strange
atmosphere of the birthplace of Mustafa Kemal, the founder of Modern Turkey (Apostolou Pavlou 75). 71
8.BREATHE in the aroma and atmosphere of the bustling Modiano Market (near Ermou).
9.LISTEN to rebetika
over dinner at Tombourblika (Naumaxias Limnou 14).
10.DRINK coffee at
Thermaikos on the seafront (Leoforos Nikis 21) and gaze at Mount Olympus. *Victoria Hislop is the author of best-selling novels “The Island”, “The Return” and “The Thread”. Her latest book is the collection of short stories “The Last Dance”. victoriahislop.com 72
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Fenafresh
The Box Gallery
of labels that speaks to any type.
markers, masks, blackbooks, and everything else graffiti related to the local enthusiasts. A variety of Kidrobot, Toy2r and Medicom Toy figures is also at arm’s length.
Pavlou Mela 8, 2310 257 447 A pop experiment which fuses fashion, home design and gadget culture combined with every new essential style element. Commes de Garcons and Volcom, Budhist Punk and Sonia Rykiel, Joop! and Dsquared2, a wide selection
MicroXtreme
Apelou 6, Navarinou Square, (+30) 2313 050 315 Argyris (aka Ser) and Simoni, are not only two of the most relevant street artists this city has produced, but also shopkeepers of this lovely gallery that supplies inks, sprays,
Dim. Gounari 19, (+30) 2310 260 431 A cesspool of alternative shopping. Circa, Forum, Lakai, Matix, Insight, Boardsports, Zoo York, provided by a large group of friends who constantly organize snowboard and skateboard events without failing to dress you in style.
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Handover
IPPODROMIOU 3, (+30) 2313 014 061 Clearly the coolest selection of vintage clothes and accessories you’re likely to discover in northern Greece. Most items are brought from Britain and the Netherlands, and the prices are ridiculously affordable for such a valuable little shop of goodies.
Ianos
Aristotelous 7, (+30) 2310 284 833 You won’t find a better selection of books in Greek, English and other languages. Everything from novels to poetry, art, architecture or anything with print on it. An influential cultural factor to this country’s spiritual life, Ianos hosts weekly book presentations where readers get a chance to meet and discuss with their favourite authors. Its bestselling list, published in newspapers is considered essential, as well as its frequent, own publications.
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Notos Galleries
Stoa Hirs, Tsimiski 24 & Mitropoleos 33, (+30) 2310 366 600 Northern Greece’s answer to KaDeWe promises five floors full of cool elegance, containing more than 250 fashion brands, which offer an apotheosis of shopping. Street classics such as Denim and Supply Ralph Lauren, Juicy Couture, Custo Barcelona, Tommy Hilfiger, Diesel and Replay are living harmoniously along
Public
Tsimiski 24 – Mitropoleos 33,
exclusives by Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Christian Dior and Burberry.
(+30) 2310 227288 Mediterranean Cosmos, (+30) 2310 472 633
Ultra
We love the atmosphere in Public stores: although the technology and culture is gigantic in proportions, there’s something very casual, almost domestic about the place. Visit anytime and indulge in the largest variety of foreign language books and graphic novels, as well as music, photography, computers and tablets, gadgets of any imaginable sort. Lovely.
Alexandrou Svolou 40, (+30) 2310 232 741 Streetwear at its very best: adidas, insight, Diesel, Von Dutch, Replay, Bench, Kanabeach and everything regarding skate, surf and streetfighting outfits.
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Mirepsos
V. Hugo 12, (+30) 2310 518 450 Fragrance paradise. Also, organic shower gels, lotions, moisturizing oils, bath salts and shampoos, hand soaps, sponges, candles and sticks. Totally earth friendly.
Fashion Andria Creations, Mitropoleos 64, (+30) 2310 222 335, adria.gr Cocktail Jane, Zefxidos 5
Sugarcube
Tsimiski 94 Bags, hats, scarves, gloves, purses, and all sorts of accessories. A bohemian lair for girls who care for style and character.
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Decibel, Dimitriou Gounari 27, (+30) 2310 282 948/ Egnatia 14, (+30) 2310 536 617, desibel.gr Philly, Mitropoleos 60, (+30) 2310 242 304, philly.gr Peter Sport, Ermou 36, (+30) 2310 265 595/ Mitropoleos 97, (+30) 2310 274 634 Prime Timers, Kouskoura 5, (+30) 2310 226 248, prime-timers.gr Rania Xanthopoulou, Proxenou Koromila 41, (+30) 2310 276 278 T-Bar, Alexandrou Svolou 24, (+30) 2310 211 299, t-bar.gr
Underwear Elegance, Tsimiski 74, (+30) 2310 269 809 Med, Tsimiski 51, (+30) 2310 256 131
Sunglasses Zografos, Ermou 77, (+30) 2310 281 456 Tarasoudis, Agias Sofias 9, (+30) 2310 276 487
Accessories Atelie Domini, Zefxidos 3 La-di-da, Dimitriou Gounari 22, (+30) 2310 220 158, ladida.gr Max Boutique, Mitropoleos 38, (+30) 2310 262 224 Naya and Piu, Dimitriou Gounari 30, (+30) 2310 269 708, nayaandpiu.gr RinTinTin, Tsimiski 113 & Dimitriou Gounari, (+30) 2310 273 117/ Karipi 16, (+30) 2310 244 412 Stamion, Ionos Dragoumi 24, (+30) 2310 261 393, stamion.gr
Optika Damoula, A. Papanastasiou 134, (+30) 2310 300 687, opticsdamoula.gr Cosmetics Fresh Line, Agias Sofias 16, (+30) 2310 267 460, Mitropoleos 62, (+30) 2310 223 264 Sephora, Tsimiski 62, (+30) 2310 235 416 Home accessories Galerie Dora Penga, Proxenou Koromila 19, (+30) 2310 286 482
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H&M
Tsimiski 40, (+30) 2310 268 066, Agias Sofias 11, (+30) 2310 281 237, Mediterranean Cosmos, (+30) 2310 024 194, City Gate, Giannitson 61 and Koletti, (+30) 2310 567 537 At first, the Tsimiski store catches your attention through a wide array of cosmetics and a selection of reduced price items. The renovated neoclassical artifact at Agias Sofias street is the second dominant store in Thessaloniki by the globally acclaimed H&M brand. Bordering Tsimiski with Mitropoleos and facing the waterfront, the location at the heart of the city matches the superb Summer 2013 collections, all based around soft pastel colours, adding an element of luminosity to the most
laid-back of all seasons. Affordable prices, exclusive design through collaborations with famous fashion trend makers, prolific production, iconic lifestyle, cosmopolitan viewpoint, all those elements and many more interconnect H&M with the metropolitan way of life in Thessaloniki. 80
publi
Public is Greece’s largest IT, Telecoms, Culture and Entertainment retailer currently present in 21 cities throughout Greece and Cyprus maintaining 33 physical stores offering high quality services. Two of the chain’s most impressive and largest stores are based in Thessaloniki. In both the Tsimiski (at the city center near by Aristotelous Square) and Pylaea (in Mediterranean Cosmos shopping center) area stores of Thessaloniki, Public’s unique concept is based on exciting the pleasure of discovering a diversity of technological and cultural products, such as: mobiles, tablets, smartphones, audio, and video equipment as well as books, CDs and DVDs. Over the years, Public
has steadily become a “Love Brand”, thanks to an unrivalled selection of 500.000 products that is further supported by expert staff advice and unique environment. Focusing on the vibrant and rapidly growing Tablets and Smartphones segments, the customer is privileged by the ability to see, feel and live test more than 100 devices, thus offering a fulfilling purchasing experience that any other retailer could hardly match. In addition, a wide range of cultural events, such as book presentations, mini concerts etc complement Public’s unique concept. Last but not least, one can also buy tickets for all important venues and shows taking place throughout the country.
Photos © Giannis Megas Collection. Part of the ongoing Museum of Photography’s exhibition: “Beyond History: Thessaloniki through photography”. 82
The Excelsior Hotel An important part of Thessalonikian history on its own, the Excelsior has been a choice of quality since 1924. Brainchild of a family of hoteliers with a longstanding reputation for their commitment to excellence, the Excel sior is part a business, part a labour of love for the Tornivoukas family, owners of a number of respectable hotels around Greece. A couple of years ago, the family decided to renovate the original building entirely, resulting to a luxurious contemporary five star boutique hotel which has already earned great acclaim among locals and foreigners. The interior
resembles a Parisian building of the 1900s with a classic marble staircase and an original vintage elevator both of them adding smart overtones to modern stylistic touches. But it is the ornamented art deco balconies and neo-classical full length windows that truly captivate one’s attention, as well as the Excelsior’s instant proximity to everything that matters in this city. Mitropoleos 23 tel. (+30) 2310 021 020 fax. (+30) 2310 021 030 info@excelsiorhotel.gr www.excelsiorhotel.gr
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Colors Central Ladadika One of the city’s newest establishments and most definitely one destined to become a classic. Low priced on principle but rich in comfort and casual in mentality, Colors Central Ladadika is located in the picturesque Ladadika district. 12 individually themed rooms make it all the more enjoyable to appreciate the sea view from your master bed or readjust your mood by changing the color of your room. Mind you, waking up early was never an issue at Colors, since breakfast is served at all times. Room types: FRESH EXECUTIVE Room, COZY Room, SUNNY CORNER Suite, BUSINESS ECONOMY Room. Prices: 50E - 80E Oplopoiou 1 tel. (+30) 2310 502 280 info@colors.com.gr www.colors.com.gr 84
Colors Rooms & Apartments Fully furnished apartments, located in the prominent, youthful district of Valaoritou. “Accessible” would never be an euphemism for this value for money hotel, since it’s just seconds away from Aristotelous square, while the distance to the city’s waterfront and port is merely a short stroll. Ca sual, cool, vibrant, pop artish, Colors is basically the much needed answer to an old problem: why should a mod ern traveler pay for commodities that
equipped with kitchenettes for travelers that wish to prolong their trip are also available upon request. Unique add-ons that can be enjoyed with a small fee, include massage, espresso machine, unlimited minibar, stay fit pack, “Thessaloniki!” breakfast and much more. In case the aforementioned do not assure the “personal budget luxury” tag, we should also mention the surprisingly affordable low rates, the satisfying room size, as well as the free wi-fi, dis
do not appeal in the least? Why the pretentious service and over-charged banalities? Thus, “Be a Colorista”. Age groups among 20 to 40 have already embraced the hospitality provided by the spacious rooms, designed to accommodate from 1 up to 4 persons, with each one of them offering a living room, separate bedroom, en-suite bathroom and working space, whilst apartments
counts at local places, along with the complimentary drink per guest, which awaits you upon arrival. Additionally, all Colors’ guests are provided with a COLORISTA card, offering a 10% off the price for future visits. Valaoritou 21 tel. (+30) 2310 502 280 info@colors.com.gr www.colors.com.gr
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City Hotel An eco friendly hotel, one of the city’s most central hotels, City is ideal for those eager to feel the downtown vibes, offering close eyesight at most of the shopping, culinary and drinking, attractions of Tsimiski Street and Aristotelous Square. Not only is it conveniently located, but its modern design, green philosophy and highly efficient service have long established it among the jet set favourites. Awarded with the green key, City is also renowned for its technologically advances conference rooms that host many of the city’s business meetings, training seminars, samplings, private and board meetings for up to 100 peo ple. All in all, City manages to make a difference as a hotel that provides high quality accommodations, green hospitality, an atmosphere of calm and tranquil relaxation and facilities in its 125 renovated and spacious rooms. Komninon 11 tel. (+30) 021 000, 2310 269 421 fax. (+30) 2310 240 715, 2310 274 358 info@cityhotel.gr www.cityhotel.gr
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LOOKING FOR A COOL HOTEL AT A LOW PRICE?
Welcome to COLORS CENTRAL! Design rooms, great location location, low prices from 50€ to 80€. COLORS CENTRAL, OPLOPOIOU 1, LADADIKA is the newest hotel in Thessaloniki, open from 01.07.13. With 12 themed rooms, excellent service and casual mentality, COLORS CENTRAL is here to meet and host the modern traveller. Enjoy the sea view from your Master Bed, change the color of your room to meet your mood. Value-For-Money Accomodation For The Modern Traveler. Stay at COLORS, enjoy life. COLORS Rooms & Apartments | Oplopiou 1, Thessaloniki tel +30 2316 007 676 | www.colors.com.gr
Daios Luxury Living An impressive exterior resembling a ship. Balconies which look like decks and rooms that look like cabins. An array of overlooking glassworks that put you into a voyager’s frame of mind. A hotel set to sail anchored in front of the Thermaikos coastline. Obtaining a better view to the sea is highly improbable. In a Thessaloniki which has long been considered as the ideal weekend break environment in the Balkans, it is not that hard to come to grasps with Daios Hotel’s success. Located in a historic building that used to house the old American Embassy, constructed so effectively that aroused public discussion as a model for modern architecture, Daios has been the talk of the town long before it opened its gates. As a result, nowadays it has been embraced by locals, loved by visitors, bookmarked by future comers. Check in and sail away. Leoforos Nikis 59 tel. (+30) 2310 250 200 fax. (+30) 2310 250 900 info@daioshotels.com www.daioshotels.com
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Makedonia Palace Hotel A great amount of history surrounds this gigantic hotel that dominates the seafront esplanade. It has traditionally been chosen as the place of residence for prime ministers, members of parliament and generally speaking, men in high places. Under a new management, Makedonia Palace repositions itself in the market and nods towards new chapters of brilliance. Postscript: most probably the most beautiful balconies to take a glance at northern Greece. Megalou Alexandrou Avenue 2 tel. (+30) 2310 897 197 fax. (+30) 2310 897 211 info@makedoniapalace.gr www.makedoniapalace.gr
Electra Palace Ease yourself to an idyllic morning with a delightful American Buffet Breakfast before stepping out to meet the day. Under the arched pathway of Electra Palace’s street café in the center of Aristotelous Square, a step away from both Tsimiski and Mitropoleos streets and the gulf of Thermaikos adding to the impression of the vibrant, harmonious epicentre of the Balkans that Thessaloniki can be consider by residents of the city’s most strategically placed hotel. Neo-classical architecture and up to date design with luxurious fabrics and furniture fulfil even the wildest expectations, while the sophistication of the cuisine manages an extensive range of the dishes of Mediterranean gastronomy. As an established choice
The Met Hotel A hotel of world-class caliber, ideal for travelers. Luxurious without making a fuss out of it: simple, elegant, minimalistically furnished. Also note the Met’s extensive collection of fine of stay, or as a meeting point for art, which could easily find room in moonlit cocktails in the infamous roof any respectable urban museum. garden, visitors agree that Electra Palace is truly unparalleled. 26th Oktovriou 48 tel. (+30) 2310 017000 Aristotelous Square 9 fax (+30) 2310 017100 tel. (+30) 2310 294 000 themethotel@chandris.gr fax. (+30) 294 001 www.themethotel.gr reservationsskg@electrahotels.gr www.electrahotels.gr
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San ti Chalkidiki den ehei! Oops, apologies! You don’t speak Greek. You actually needn’t, for we’re here to sort it out for you. “San ti Chalkidiki den ehei” means “There is no place in the planet like Chalkidiki”. Within an hour of Thessaloniki, it’s a vast expanse of crystal clear blue waters and velvety sand –truly a heavenly holiday destination of glorious proportions. Let’s walk it through, shall we? Proto Podi First things first: Chalkidiki consists of a large peninsula in the northwestern Aegean Sea, resembling a hand with three “fingers” (though in Greek these peninsulas are often referred to as “legs”, so for convenience’s sake, we’ll keep to the Greek definition: “Proto Podi” is greeklish for “First Leg”. It doesn’t take longer than an hour to reach Proto Podi, and immerse yourself into the pleasures of exceptional beaches, such as Nea Iraklia, Nea Kalikratia, Geoponika and Vergia. The beaches here are fully organized, to due the proximity to the city, which makes it
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easily accessible to a lot of families, children and groups of friends. The waters are just brilliant, despite being too crowded at times. We suggest you’d try Kalithea, Pallini Beach, and most particularly, Chanioti, whereas the Molos beach bar is the definitive location to enjoy a swim, as well as to indulge to a bit of celebrity spotting. Owned by famous TV host and rock persona Antonis Kanakis, it attracts the analogous breed of people.
area, delicious fruit salads, pizzas and ice drinks. The sea’s equally fine at Posidi, most particularly at the Chrusos beach, at Aigeopelagitika and Siviri. For lunches and dinners, try the delicious gourmet mediterranean and traditional greek food specialties at Massalia (+30 23740 81008), located at Nea Fokaia, right into the central square of the village. Come clubbing time, place your bewildered feet at Angels, in Ka-
Waters in front of the beach bar Anemos (+30 23740 31690) at the peninsula of Sani is shallow, so it could be ideal for children. However, what it lacks in depth, it makes up with blue-green exoticness. Now if you’re into outdoor camping, fix your tent at the Blue Dream camping (+30 23740 31249 & 31435). Besides the ever so promising seas, you could do worse than miss the parties of beach bar Anemos, especially right after the sun sets. Right after Sani, at Kypsa beach, rests the adorable Chelona beach bar (+30 6987 444624). Shallow, warm waters, lots of parties, lots of fun, especially designed racket
lithea. Practically everyone with an appetite for some serious fun will be there.
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Deftero Podi A bit farther down the road, but no longer than a couple of hours out of Thessaloniki is what we Greeks refer to as “blue paradises” reside. Kalogria and Agios Ioannis should be treasured. Quite a bit of free camping in the latter, although it’s officially prohibited –but who cares? You only live once. Sykia and Linaraki offer the sort of long, expansive beaches without intruding eyes getting in the way.
hotel Despotiko (+30 23750 51150), is conveniently right next to Ethnik. Surrounded by the characteristic in Chalkidiki wild olive trees, Despotiko hosts a restaurant, a tavern, a pool bar, a beach bar, as well as a swimming pool and playground. Intermission: are you by any chance a fan of nudism? If so, Kavourotripes, Kriaritsi and Alatobares are three places invented just for you. Karidi at Vourvourou, (ask locals
Peaceful too, since you won’t find a single beach bar in sight. The sea at Tristinika in front of Ethnik bar is simply irresistible. Ethnik is a Deftero Podi classic: reminiscing a mexican hacienda built into the seaside, it does indeed have a taste for ethnic music. If you choose to spend the night,
for the “Kathigites plaz”) might be kind of isolated, but you know what they say: riches comes to those who know how to search (or something along the lines). The beach of Kohi beach bar at Marmaras, near the Porto Carras hotel complex, is also a Chalkidiki classic. The clientele lays mostly on the
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Chanioti, Chalkidiki
Kalithea, Chalkidiki
wealthy side, the sea is an epitome of quality, the overall atmosphere is one of utter serenity. Might as well describe it as our very own Saint Trope. At Akti Zografou, rests the adorable new entry Paparouna (+30 6989 696369), which offers a supreme beach, an exceptional bar and a gourmet restaurant by the sea. Enchanting place. You’re your ears open for the numerous weekend parties.
Finally, the Armenistis camping, is our private Woodstock, albeit with a pinch of Eden to add to the mix.
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Trito Podi Once there, visit Nea Roda by Ouranoupoli, near the Eagles Palace Hotel. Ammouliani is a tiny exotic island with many exquisite beaches. Also visit Gaidouronisia for unlimited free camping and tremendous relaxation without a care in the world. If anything, you should offer yourself a treat and get to Trito Podi for the aforementioned Eagles Palace (+30 23770 31070). Aptly named and masterfully crafted, Eagles Palace is unparalleled in both location and atmosphere, the supreme monastic architecture notwithstanding. Hospitable as it gets but with a decisive aura of mysticism, Eagles Palace combines romance and idyllic scenery with the luxurious facilities and services one requires for a dreamy vacation. Having reached that point, do take a mental note of all the adventurous amenities Eagles Palace is so well known for: athletic and artistic activities, gourmet dining and wine tasting festivals, boutiques, water sports and scuba diving centre, practically everything one can put one’s mind into.
tel.: +30 6987 444624
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Buses Organization of Urban Transportation (OASTH) Call Center: 185, (+30) 2310 981 100, www.oasth.gr Ktel “Macedonia” Bus Center, Giannitson 244, (+30) 2310 544 633, www.ktelmacedonia.gr Trains (OSE) 14944, www.ose.gr, www.trainose.gr International Airport “Macedonia” Telephone center: (+30) 2310 985 000 Courier services ACS, (+30) 2310 567 912, 567 914 Geniki Taxidromiki, (+30) 2310 266 802, 254 663 Radiotaxi Alfa Leukos Pirgos, (+30) 2310 214 900, 218 600 Macedonia, (+30) 2310 550 500 Eurotaxi, (+30) 2310 866 866, 511 855, 551 525 Mercedes Club, (+30) 2310 525 000 Airlines Olympic Air: (+30) 801 1120 000 Aegean Airlines: (+30) 801 1120 000 British Airways: (+30) 801 1156 000
Austria: (+30) 2310 474 190 Alitalia: (+30) 2310 383 414, 801 1150 055 Malev: (+30) 2310 475 740 Vim avia: (+30) 2310 519 289, 473 354 Jat Airways: (+30) 2310 383 130, 233 188 easyJet: (+30) 210 3530 000 Post Offices Ethnikis Amynis & Manousogiannaki 6, (+30) 2310 227 274 Car rental Rent a car in Greece, Agelaki 25 & Nikotsara 1, (+30) 2310 250 735 Mediterranee, Salaminos 10, (+30) 2310 566 353 Emergency numbers Police: 100 Tourist police: 171 Ambulance: 166 Fire Service: 199 Hospitals, Pharmacies: 1434 General Hospitals Ippokratio A. Papanastasiou 50 , Thessaloniki (+30) 2310 837 921 G. Gennimatas Ethnikis Amynis 41, (+30) 2310 211 221-2
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