Athens Voice English Guide 2022 by Athens Voice

2022

CITY GUIDE’

S U M M E R 2 0 2 2 - w w w . a t h e n s v o i c e . g r - F ree p ress

Get athensvoice CITY guide on your smartphone www.bestofathens.gr & www.athensvoiceguides.com

City & Islands Guide 2022 Publisher Fotis Georgeles Editorial Consultant: Editorial Director: Stavroula Panagiotaki Aggeliki Birbili General Advertising Director: Louiza Nathanail Art Director: Konstantina Vlachopoulou IT Manager: Vaios Syntsirmas Web Content Manager: Dimitris Athanasiadis

Tune in to 102.5 fm and listen to the best music in the city

Editorial Team: Yannis Nenes, Nenela Georgele, Takis Skrivanos, Georgia Skamagka, Yiannis Dimopoulos, Eleni Bezirianoglou, Katerina Vnatsiou, Isabelle Clayton, Sreesha Ghosh, Katherine Brubaker, Kat Martin, Christina Vasileiadis

Digital Advertising Director: Eva Vangeli Digital Advertising Manager: Pepi Kraliovits A.V Network Advertising Manager: Aggeliki Kokkorogianni Direct Market Advertising Managers: Michalis Drakakis, Eva Valamvanou, Nontas Dabanis Creative Marketing Director: Vassiliki Kotsou Creative Director: Stratis Kanimas Advertising Coordinators: Mary Kourti, Niki Skamagka Digital Advertising Coordinator: Mina Giannaki Digital Traffic Manager: Evi Tarnari

Photographer: Thanasis Karatzas Copy Editor: Dimitra Grous Creative Art Director: Fotis Pechlivanidis Layout & Design: Sotos Anagnos

Financial Director: Efi Mourtzi

08 Welcome to Greece

Accounting: Ourania Michali, Mary Lykousi, Vassilis Nakos An annual publication of Athens Voice S.A. Harilaou Trikoupi 22, 106 79 Athens-Greece Editorial: tel +302103617360 Advertising: tel +30210 3617530 www.bestofathens.gr e-mail: info@bestofathens.gr Copyright ATHENS VOICE 2022 All rights reserved.

ASE RECYC LE

No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner.

14 Monuments of the Athens City At a glance, Athens may look like an ordinary, contemporary, metropolitan city. But the truth is that amidst the hustle, bustle and concrete gray buildings actually lies a colorful, vibrant, warm and friendly city, full of overwhelming energy and stunning abstractions. From urban architectural treasures and natural hideaways to unforgettable nightlife and a culinary blend that is local-driven as it is international, every Athenian street and every Athenian turn unveils the immortal traces of the ancient Greek culture and glory. vHere, at Athens Voice –Greece’s leading publication for 20 years– we’re excited to welcome all of you to our beautiful country. In doing so, we’ve prepared our annual guide, packed with all the insider knowledge you need and our clear, concise expertise on everything Athens has to offer. From popular spots for drinks to an off-thebeaten-path art gallery, we’ll show you all our favorite destinations, and hopefully they’ll become yours too! We look forward to being your trusted companion during your stay. Follow us @athensvoice and share your favorite moments on Instagram using the hastags #athensvoice, #lookmag, #tastevoice, #athensvoiceradio.

COVER: Designed by α.v.

Enjoy your stay!

16 Museums 24 Athens Epidaurus Festival 2022 26 Neighbourhoods 30 See Athens in one day 34 A first-timer in Athens 36 Biking in Athens 38 Green Oases 40 Open air cinemas 42 Shopping 48 Bookshops 50 Hotels 54 Sugar cravings 60 Restaurants 80 Bars & clubs 82 Beaches 86 Getaways 90 Metro SUMMER 2022_ 3

Vasilis Kikilias Minister of Tourism

Dear visitor, Welcome to Athens, one of the oldest cities in the world, a city that has more to offer than meets the eye. A city well known for its heritage and history, but at the same time a contemporary metropolis full of life cultural events and gastronomical gems waiting to be discovered by you. Even if this is your first or multiple visit, I urge you to discover the historical centre, the Athenian riviera where you enjoy an island like beach life and entertainment, as well as the less known neighbourhoods and suburbs of Athens. You will find yourself amazed with the abundance of choices for all types of visitors. I wish you a pleasant stay and will be awaiting you to return to discover even more. 4 _ SUMMER 2022

ATHENS:

The recovery of the Metropolis of the Greek Tourism

©V. Zavos

By Dimitris Fragakis Secretary General of the Greek National Tourism Organization

he Greek tourism, after two extremely tough years, is finally bouncing back. Fact is that the pandemic during the years 2021 and 2022 caused our country an economic loss as high as 25 billion euros of its tourism income. In particular, urban tourist destinations, with Athens on top, suffered a great damage dissimilar to other regional spots. Nevertheless, during the pandemic, Greece remarkably withstood and handled this crisis in the best possible way. Thanks to our targeted planning and to our systemic and collective efforts we have managed not only to keep our country’s brand at high levels but also to reinforce it. An achievement that guided us to a leading place! Athens stands by itself as a potential tourism brand and we, at the Greek National Tourism Organization aim to build up on it, in collaboration with local authorities, the mass media, the commerce and the society of the citizens. The Athens Voice Guidebook you are actually holding is an exceptional mapping of what awaits a visitor during his stay in Athens. After all, the city introduces itself as a miniature of the whole country, with its diverse landscapes, its glowing civilization and its exquisite cuisine… a totally effervescent European capital. 6 _ SUMMER 2022

Ancient monuments magically coexist with contemporary place marks. Athens is firmly associated with the sea. In fact, the Athens Riviera is a project that develops fast on the coastline of the southern suburbs. Furthermore, contemporary architecture buildings such as the National Gallery, the Museum of Modern Art, the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, the Onassis Stegi, have remarkably contributed to the city’s upgraded image. A challenging day after, with many opportunities indeed. “The Greekend”, a campaign we created about your long Greek weekend, has already become iconic. “Greece Does Have a Winter”, for the first time an inspirational campaign to call attention to Greece during wintertime. At the same time, we propose numerous fascinating experiences one may have in the Greek capital and its suburbs. For us, it is of crucial importance to promote Marine and Health & Wellness types of tourism, as well as to prove that Athens is a digital nomad-friendly city and by all means, a luxury living place. Undoubtedly, both recovery and sustainable development in Athens, the metropolis of the Greek tourism, constitute issues that are not easy to deal with and require a lot of effort. However, I strongly believe that we will successfully manage!

Welcome Greece: Associated by most with its long, sunny Greek summer, golden beaches, turquoise waters, traditional food by the sea. But our country is a lot more than this. There is a lot of history and a lot of happening now. Athens, the capital city, overcoming the crisis, is again a buzzing metropolis, a lively hive of creative spirit, with something of interest for all its visitors. There is “joie de vivre” in every corner of it. Below are some useful things to know from the minute you step foot in this wonderful country of contrasts. By YANNIS NENES

The rails on the pedestrian pathway at Makriyiannis Street are the remnants of the old Athenian Tram, which stopped operating in the early 60s. The underground river flowing underneath Monastiraki Square, some of its parts now exposed in sight, is Eridanos river. The longest road in Athens is Acharnon street, stretching for about 3 kilometers of length. The narrowest is Kallipou street, about 2 meters in weidth. It is located between Monastiraki square and Kapnikarea, intersecting Ermou Street. The name of the english nobleman who removed the marbles of Parthenon is Thomas Bruce, 7th Earl of Elgin. About 7% of all the marble produced in the world comes from Greece. The first Athenian suburb was Kolonos. Back in 1853 the population of Athens was 30,000. Today it exceeds 3,5 million. The Presidential Guard (Evzones) in front of the Greek Parliament building at Syntagma, "rotates" every hour. Facing the building of the Academy of Athens, the statue on the left is Plato and that on the right is Socrates. 8 _ SUMMER 2022

ATHENS

Could Athens become the new Berlin? The BBC wondered not long ago. The city might look poor in aspects but there is a sexy vibe in it. Industrial spaces have turned into art venues, performance studios, places where much is happening. The hype is art and emerging artists are fleeing from all over Europe. Berlin, maybe not. But shaping its own modern identity, yes!

BROKEN PAVEMENTS and slope warning

Don’t expect properly conserved pavements and roads. So put on your sneakers instead of high heels! BOUZOUKIA It used to be the ultimate Greek nightout. Large stages, whiskey & flowers thrown to the singer we like – don’ t ask why. Younger Greeks, now, prefer big concerts of tribal, balkan, ethnic beat.

CROSS Older people will cross themselves when passing a church. It’s a common gesture for good luck. Notice many taxi drivers do it too. DRIVERS They are kind of sloppy. Following the street signs is something of a weak character. So beware.

DERTI “An unrelenting sense of loss or unfulfilled

desire”. It’s a word to describe the feeling you get after a heartbreak, a sentiment Greeks love to sing about. Remember, “drama” is also a greek word. DRUGS Cannabis in Greece is illegal for recreational purposes. In 2017 medical use of cannabis was legalized. If you are found carrying it around (or using it) you will probably get arrested.

EATING in Athens Never fails to please. There are

hundreds of great places to eat in every part of the city. You will find a wonderful fusion of traditional and modern greek cuisine. Just be careful of restaurants that seem very ˝touristic”– the food there is usually not the best.

FOUSTANELLA Traditional pleated kilt that comes of

the 19th century. It is worn by the guards of the former Royal Palace, Evzones, (meaning the “well-belted” elite soldiers, a term traced in Homer’s times). In Syntagma square, you can take your picture next to them and see if they blink. Every so often they do a little march to break the monotony of standing still all day and at 6pm you can watch the changing of the guards. Just make sure that you do not stand in their way; they are not allowed to stop for any reason-instead, they can march-kick the obstacles with their pompom shoes. FRAPPE SOCIETY Frappe coffee is the lifeblood of Greek society. Made with instant Nescafe mixed with water, ice, milk and lots of sugar, a frappe will provide you with the right amount of caffeine for your coffee break, and the right buzz to sip while gossiping and people watching. Now entries are the fredoccino, the frapuccino and everything as long as it’s cold and long

"Happy is the man, I thought, who, before dying, has the good fortune to sail the Aegean Sea"

©Marco Montero Pisani/unsplash

-Nikos Kazantzakis, “Zorba the Greek”

SUMMER 2022_ 9

The Columns of Olympian Zeus are the remainings of a "gigantic" Temple dedicated to Zeus. At its time, Olympieion as it was called, it was bigger than the Parthenon, in fact it was the biggest temple in Greece. The Parthenon’s roof was kept well maintained for more than 2,000 years, until late 17th century, in 1687, when it was bombarded by the Venetians under Francesco Morosini. The tallest building in Athens, and in the whole Greece, is the "Athens Tower" at Ampelokipi. Its 28 floor-structure go up 103 meters to the sky. Athens limits buildings to 12 floors so as not to block the view of the Parthenon. There are 29 cities in the world named "Athens", seven of which are found in the United States. The world’s third leading producer of olives, the Greeks have cultivated olive trees since ancient times. Some olive trees planted in the thirteenth century are still producing olives. Sometimes thw city of Athens is referred to as The Big Olive. Greece enjoys more than 250 days of sunshine-or 3,000 sunny hours a year.

giving many different flavours of honey, especially in the region of Attica and Crete. You will want to try thyme honey, which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

INTERNET Greece has 3G, 4G+ 5G mobile broadband and Satellite Internet access. Greece also has an extensive fiber optic network throughout the country. Most cafes and restaurants offer free Wi-Fi. Ask for the password. IT IS A SMOKER’S PARADISE Smoking is very popular in Greece and still relatively cheap compared to the rest of Europe. Non-smoking signals in bars are not to be trusted. If you are looking for a smoke-free environment, ask the waitress. JEWELRY SHOPS Everywhere! Greek men don’t wear so much gold like the Italians do. Except maybe, a golden cross their mama gave to them 30 years ago! Greek women love jewels but, most of all, tourists love handcrafted gold since it is inexpensive in Greece but also for its high quality and excellent craftsmanship. KAFSONAS If you hear this word on the news, be prepared: it means heatwave. KIOSKS We call them “periptero” and they provide almost anything. Cigarettes, milk, snacks, condoms etc. Some of them stay open 24/7: that’s the best part of it. KOULOURI Walking around the city, you will spot some men selling this kind of bagel, round pastry coated in sesame seeds. It’s the most healthy snack you can find for a relatively small price (maximum €1,5). It’s the handy breakfast for most greeks, along with the morning coffee. KEFI/KEFIA Means joy, spirit, passion, happiness, triumph, mojo, excitement, feeling good, having fun, loving life. If we had to choose only one word describing Greece’s values in general, this would be it. MALAKA The most common address between friends

to drink. Third wave coffee is also a great preference especially among young people who hang out in new and established specialty coffee shops.

GRAFFITI Athens is considered to be a paradise for graffiti artists, as most of them can go and spray wherever they want, mostly tagging their logos. Still, there are many wonderful wall arts made by creative graffiti artists who have their own colourful way to spray the city. GREEK COFFEE Unfiltered coffee probably of Arabic/ Turkish origin. Served hot in small cups. You drink only the liquid part. Greek coffee has to be made the traditional way that most die-hard old men in coffee shops (cafenéon) follow: boiled on hot sand (“chovoli”). There is a long tradition in old Greece of reading the remains in coffee cups and foretelling the future, a highly prized skill. HONEY An ancient super food. Hippocrates advised people to eat honey every day in order to live longer. From the early prehistoric times the art of apiculture and honey collection still remains a primary agriculture activity for Greeks. Due to long periods of sunshine, Greek honey is internationally known for its distinct biological and organoleptic characteristics. The abrupt changes of landscape make Greek flora so rich, that 7,500 different species of plants are growing in Greece 10 _ SUMMER 2022

or enemies. Among friends it is used like “dude”. But if the person addressing you with this word looks angry, walk away because you never know! MOUTZA You may notice that some drivers give an open palm gesture to each other. It’s a kind of an offensive curse of Byzantine, or French, or Venetian origin.

ΝEOCLASSICAL HOUSES Beautiful buildings

of the 19th century have survived and they have been renovated. Most of them in the area of Plaka.

OWL Throughout the antiquity, goddess Athena and

her companion owl served as city and primary coin type. What made the Athenian silver so popular and long lasting was its status as the definition of good money. The modern Greek one-euro coin features the owl taken from the ancient Athenian four-drachma piece, practically the first coin in the history of Europe. Artist Dimitris Kasdaglis draws owls on peebles hiding them in various places in the city, free for finders keepers.

PALAMAKIA Clapping your hands rhythmically. Apart from showing appreciation, it’s also essential for dancing and having fun the greek way. Old greeks used to clap when they wanted to attract the waiter’s attention in tavernas. PHILOTIMO Greeks are very proud of this word which cannot be translated. It means “the love of honour”, or

THE GREEK DIET It used to be simple: bread, cheese, vegetables, olive oil, wine, and on Sundays fish or pork. Beef was seldom eaten, and sheep and goats were kept mainly for hides, wool, and milk. Nowadays, it’s a Sunday everyday.

©stavrialena gontzou/unsplash

GREEK BREAKFAST For many Greeks it consists of a quick coffee, “tyropita” (feta cheese pie) and cigarettes on the move.

"doing good”, and it refers to the concept of respecting values. According to ancient Greek philosopher, Thales, “A Greek is not a Greek without it”. PUBLIC TRANSPORT The subway (metro) in Athens is relatively new, clean and proper. But it’s far from covering the whole city. The subway’s three lines are line 1 (green), line 2 (red) and line 3 (blue). You can use the train to move from the North of the city to the port, and buses to move in the rest uncovered areas. The latter require patience and good will, because they are rarely on time.

QUEER ATHENS LGBTQ+ crowd is very active in Athens. Gay and lesbian clubs and bars can be found in Gkazi. You can find wild dance floors or quiet places within a kilometer of the metro station “Kerameikos”. REBETIKA Urban popular songs of the Greeks, especially the poorest, from the late 19th century to the 1950s, similar to the blues culture. The word is connected to the adjective “rebetis”, which means a person connected to some particular subculture. RELAX The most important part of the Greek coffee ritual. Do a little chit chat, read a newspaper or just stay still thinking about great truths of life. Enjoy. SANDALS There are quite a lot new designers

(Christina Martini and Nikolas Minoglou, London based Marios Schwab for Ancient Greek Sandals footwear label, Zali Sandals, Greek Salad Sandals, Grecian Chick, Zeus+∆ione and DiGaia, Greece Is For Lovers design team) who have updated the classic Greek leather sandals to a new impressive level. Not just strappy,

“NEVER ON A SUNDAY” Oscar winning music theme for the movie of the same name. The composer, Manos Hadjidakis, is one of the most favorite Greek composers. 12 _ SUMMER 2022

raw-edged leather flats but contemporary designs combining aesthetics of Ancient Greek sculpture and modern streetwise accessories fashion. SUPERSTITIONS Greeks have many. The strongest among them is the “evil eye” – If someone looks at you in a bad way, he will “give you the evil eye”, headache and bad luck. That’s why we are very often wearing a small blue charm, for protection. It’s a common Mediterranean thing.

TAXIS They are yellow, they are everywhere and, compared to other international cities, the rates are still cheap. You should always request a receipt for the amount paid, which should also indicate the taxi registration number and the driver’s name. If you do get overcharged don’t start a fight but report the licence plate to the Tourist police. You can always use Uber, Beat and the TaxiPlon free applications for a ride, if you want to pay by card. TAP WATER In Greece is fine. And bottled spring water is readily available. Nevertheless, do not pay more than €1 for O,5L of bottled water. VEGETABLES Famous, well-loved greek summer dishes are made with fresh, ripe vegetables. If you want to buy vegetables, preferably buy them from the farmer’s market (“laiki agora”). Held on various days of the week in neighborhoods throughout the city.

WINE Is traditionally good in Greece and enjoyed in everyday meals. In small, old type taverns, wine is served in kartoutsos (kar-tou-tchos), metal jars in fixed sizes. Many new bohemians consider them to be excellent kitchenware. WALKING When walking around the city centre, bear in mind that car drivers don’t usually respect the whiteline crossings. Never, ever cross a street if the green light is not on. Also, be careful for pickpockets. YASSOU It is the a very common salute, meaning

“hello”. Address a local like that to steal his heart and have him at hello. It comes from “health to you”. YAMAS “Health to us all”. It’s the familiar greek way to say Cheers!

ZEIBEKIKO A Greek improvisational dramatic solo dance for men. Its name comes from Zeybeks, people of Asia Minor. The dancer is surrounded by other people, who kneel and clap to him. It is a renowned dance for “mangas”, the macho archetype in the Greek poetry of masculinity.

Monuments The city of Athens is, in and of itself, a sort of museum. Walking through the city, you ’re sure to encounter marble figureheads and fenced off areas enclosing archaeological digs. The very streets upon which you walk encase the histories of the women and men who occupied this land thousands of years ago. But, like any museum, Athens has too many artifacts to explore in a lifetime, let alone a single vacation. See below for some of our favorite monuments around the city, rich with the cultural heritage of Greece. By Isabelle Clayton

14 _ SUMMER 2022

Acropolis of Athens When you visit the iconic Acropolis, you stand upon one of Greece’s 18 World Heritage Sites. As the Acropolis transitioned from being a citadel, to a site of pagean worship, to a center for religious gathering, its monuments maintained transcendent value. Today, they remain cultural and historical landmarks of Greek Antiquity, admired on the global scale. Parthenon The Parthenon, perched

atop the Acropolis, exists as an ever present reminder of the city’s immense history. Following the Greco-Persian Wars, Pericles launched a project to rebuild the Acropolis, creating the Parthenon as a tribute to the patron goddess and namesake of the ancient city: Athena. Today, an incredible portion of the building’s architecture remains intact, despite it being used, plundered, and even, bombed, over the past two thousand years.

The Theatre of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodoes Atticus

As you hike up to the summit of the Acropolis, take the opportunity to rest your legs and explore the site’s two great theaters: the Theater of Dionysus and the Odeon of Herodes Atticus. In the Theater of Dionysus, the oldest theater in the world, thousands once sat to watch the great tragedies of Sophocles, Euripides, and Aeschylus. The Herodeon, constructed in Roman times, continues to serve Athens as an open-air theater, hosting the Athens Epidaurus Festival and other performances, all open to the public.

©hert-niks/unsplash

The Ancient Agora Northwest of the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora of Athens was once a site of commercial activity, political assembly, and pagean festivals. Athenian ideals of democracy were cultivated in the Agora, both through citizens’ right to vote, and through the enforcement of laws by way of jury proceedings. Pnyx (Pnika) Although democracy was first bred in the Agora, in the fifth century, political assemblies moved their discussions to a rocky mass known as the Pnyx. On this hill, men demonstrated ideals of equality and democracy through their shared right to debate and vote upon issues of public, political, and economic concern. Filopappou Hill Filopappou hill has many wonders to explore, including the

Prison of Socrates and the Filopappou Monument, a funerary column honoring Roman Gaius Julius Antiochus. Also known as the Hill of the Muses, hikes here not only offer a rich cultural experience, but also panoramic views of the Acropolis and the Saronic Gulf.

The Roman Agora and the Library of Hadrian

Due to invasion in the 200s A.D., the Ancient Agora’s routine operations were moved to the Roman Agora, built with the sponsorship of Julius Caesar and Augustus. This Agora functioned in tandem with the Library of Hadrian, which acted not only as a library, but as a significant civic center. Today, find both landmarks in the neighborhood of Plaka.

Choragic Monument of Lysicrates

In ancient times, the significant costs required to put on performances were covered by wealthy Greek men known as choregos. Donated between 335-334 B.C., Lysicrates’s Monument celebrated a first-prize winning performance that Lysicrates had financed. To this day, it is the only Choragic Monument we have uncovered.

Kerameikos Prior to becoming a cemetery, Kerameikos was a settlement of keramos (potters). In archeological excavations of the area, incredible stores of pottery have been discovered here, in addition to thousands of tombs, some dating back as early as the Bronze Age. Panathenaic Stadium While the architecture of the Panathenaic Stadium has changed over time, its symbolic value as a site of sport and athletics has transcended the ages. In 330 B.C., the stadium hosted the ancient Panathenaic Games, and in 1896, the renovated stadium hosted the first Modern Olympic Games. Today, the stadium is a popular tourist attraction and venue for physical activity, specifically running. Temple of Olympian Zeus

The Temple of Olympian Zeus, also known as the Olympieion, took over 600 years to complete, and existed through Roman times as one of the largest temples in Greece. Only 15 of its 104 columns remain today, colossal marble fragments which only help us to imagine what the monument may have looked like in its prime. SUMMER 2022_ 15

National Archaeological Museum 16 _ SUMMER 2022

National Archaeological Museum

Greece is well known for its rich history, dating back to the ancient times, and its major contributions to modern culture. When visting the country’s capital, Athens, exploring at least some of its museums is a must. Each of Greces' numerous museums gives visitors the chance to find out about all aspects of Greek culture and history, ranging from ancient Greece and Greek traditions, to the arts and many more.

©secret travel guide/unsplash

By Christina Vasileiadis

The largest museum in Greece, and one of the most important museums in the world was founded in 1829. It was the first museums founded in the Greek state, after the revolutionary struggle and the liberation of Greece. The museum’s collection includes: Prehistoric period, the Sculptures collection (which demonstrates the development of ancient Greek sculpture form the 7th to the 5th centuries BC). The Vase and Minor objects collection (ancient Greek pottery) and the Metallurgy collection (with many fundamental statues). Highlights include the Golden Mask of Agamemnon that was unearthed by H. Schliemann in Mycenae. Latest additions include a 4th century BC gold funerary wreath and 6th century marble statue of a young woman, returned to Greece in 2007 by the Getty Museum in California. The museum is a 19th century neoclassical building, hosting more than 11,000 exhibits, and covers an area of 8,000 sq. metres, it was designed by L. Lange and remodeled by Ernst Ziller. Make sure that you have plenty of time to spend at the museum, at least 3 to 4 hours or an entire day. Don’t forget to visit the atrium’s garden, recently renovated, which displays 700 plants, many of them referred to in Greek mythology. Tue 13:00-20:00•Wed-Mon 08:00-20:00•Admission fee: €12•Reduced admission: €6•Free admission for: Escorting teachers on educational visits from EU memberstates, visitors under the age of 25 from EU member-states (upon presentation of ID), students from E.U. countries, admission card holders (Free Entrance Card, Culture Card, ICOM, ICOMOS), guides (by showing their professional cards), members of Societies of Friends of Museums and Archaeological Sites of Greece, by showing their membership card, escort of blind people and escort of persons with mobility difficulties.•Reduced admission for: Senior citizens over the age of 65 (upon presentation of ID or passport for verification of their age and country of origin), parents acompannying educational visits from primary schools. Victoria, 44 Patission (28 October) Str., Victoria, +302132144800, namuseum.gr

The Acropolis Museum

It’s an architectural jewel in the city of Athens. A modern glass building that allows the natural sunlight to embrace the statues, while also providing visitors with breathtaking views of the Acropolis opposite. It holds more than 20,000 pieces, unearthed during excavations in Athens. Located on the ancient road Dionysiou Areopagitou, only 300 meters southeast of the Parthenon. The Acropolis Museum was voted one of Trip Advisor travelers’ choice in 2016. It was also third in the Sunday Times list of the 50 best museums of the world. The museum is approximately 1 kilometer from Monastiraki stastion, and 2 kilometers fron Syntagma (Constitution) station. Where possible, try to avoid visiting during the rush hours of 10:00 to 14:00. Always begin the tour on the first floor at the northeast corner to best appreciate the significance of the Acropolis in the Mycenaean Period.

Friday night at the museum

Every Friday the Acropolis Museum stays open until 22:00 and its restaurant until midnight. Enjoy a special menu ,based on tradiotional recipes, with beautiful night views of the Acropolis and great value for money. The restaurant, located on the second floor of the museum, occupies 700 square meter of public terrace and commands a breathtaking view of the historic hills of Athens. Mon 08:00-16:00•Tue-Thu & Sat-Sun 08:00-20:00•Fri 08:00-22:00• Admission Fee: €10•Public entrance from Dionysiou Areopagitou/ Groups from Mitseon•For: the ground floor Shop and Café, the purchase of a ticket is not required•For: the second floor Shop and Restaurant, a free admission ticket is required from the Ticket Desk.•Free admission EU students - ID required. Akropoli, 15 Dionysiou Areopagitou Str., +302109000900, theacropolismuseum.gr

Cycladic Art Museum

It was founded in 1986, to hold the collection of Nicholas and Dolly Goulandris. Since then it has grown in size, currently holding one of the biggest private collctions od Cycladic art in the world. Ancient cultures of the Aegean and Cyprus, both SUMMER 2022_ 17

©arno senoner/unsplash

Follow @athensvoice Upload your favourite moments on instagram using the hashtag #athensvoice

The Acropolis Museum

permanent and temporary exhibits of approximately 3,000 objects from all phases of Cycladic, Ancient Greek and Cypriot art are housed in the two buildings of this museum. With special emphasis on the Cycladic Art of the 3rd millennium BC. The glass-roofed corridor that connects the modern building of Neofytou Douka Street to the restored 19th century neoclassical Stathatos Mansion is a feast for the eyes. Don’t forget to visit the new Cycladic café that brings the taste of Aegean fresh air into the City of Athens, in more ways than one! It is the perfect place to enjoy your breakfast, brunch, lunch or just a coffee. Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00•Thu 10:00-20:00 •Sun 11:00-17:00•Closed Tue•Admission fee: €10,•Reduced fee: €7•Reduced fee for: Seniors (over 65 y.o.), 19-26 y.o., students and chamber of fine arts cardholders•Free admission for: Kids and young persons under 18, visitors with disabilities and their companion, archaeologists, archaeology and art history students, members of ICOM-ICOMOS, journalists, qualified guides. Syntagma/Evangelismos, 4 Neophytou Douka Str. / 1 Irodotou & Vas. Sofias Ave., Athens, +302107228321-3, cycladic.gr

The Byzantine & Christian Museum

Over 25,000 artifacts from between the 3rd and 20th century AD: Early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval, postByzantine and later periods. The size and range of the collections and value of the exhibits make the Museum a veritable treasury of Byzantine and post-Byzantine art and culture. It also houses a conservation department. You can admire reconstructions of parts of early churches, wonderfully preserved mosaic floors and wall paintings. The early Christian ecclesiastical artifacts and icons can offer a foretaste for those 18 _ SUMMER 2022

eager to make a tour of Athens’s abundant churches. The building was originally the villa of the eccentric French-American philhellene the Duchess of Plaisance. Inspired by the Greek War of Independence, she resolved to fund a museum. Mon 08:00-20:00•Τue: 13:00-20:00•Wed-Sun: 08:00-20:00•Admission fee: €8•Free admission for: Children and young people aged between 6 and 25 years, of member states of the EU and the European Economic Area, on presentation of their passport to confirm their age and country of origin Evangelismos, 22 Vasilissis Sofias Str., Kolonaki, +302132139517, byzantinemuseum.gr

EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Athens

The National Museum of Contemporary Art Athens, located at the former FIX brewery, has been building its collection the beginning of its operation in 2000. Its current collection holds approximately 1,400 artworks and is separated into two categories; historic art, dating from the second half of the 20th century, and contemporary art. Periodically, the museum features temporary exhibitions ranging from art commissioned by the museum to photography and video installations. Opening hours: Tuesdays-Wednesdays & Fridays-Sundays 11:00-19:00, Thursdays 11:00-22:00 General Admission: €8 Reduced Admission: €4, for young people ages 13-18, university students, groups of 10 visitors or more, visitors over the age of 65. Free Entrance for: children under the age of 12, visitors with disabilities and their guides, groups of school, university and technological Educational institution students and their accompanying teachers and professors, members of ICOM-ICOMOS and licensed tour guides. Kallirois Av. & Frantzi Str., (former Fix brewery), Athens, +302111019000

For more info on opening hours and entrance fees, it' s worth visiting the Greek National Tourism Ifomration Office (Areopagitou 18-20, just opposite the Acropolis Museum entrance). EU students get free or reduced admission to museums and galleries, which is also sometimes the case for citizens over the age of 65 and under 19. Don't forget you ID.

Visiting in the earlier hours is the best choice as later in the day, especially midday, tempratures soar up to 40°C (100° F) and the UV index is much higher. The quietest days to visit museums in the capital are Wednsedays. Some museums remain closed on Mon or Tue. Virtual tours are offered by many museums, allowing visitors to get a better idea of the space and be more prepared for their visit.

National Gallery

The War Museum

The War Museum was found in 1964, to honor all those who fought for the country’s freedom. It presents many important periods of Hellenic History. It explores military conflicts, including the Asia Minor campaign, the Balkan Wars, the involvement of Greek forces in Korea and even Cyprus-related conflicts. It features 18th and 19th century swords, handguns and military uniforms. Standout exhibits include the fullscale model of the Daedalus and the fighter planes in front of the entrance. Visitors are recommended to start their visit from the first floor that hosts the hall of antiquities. Everyday 09:00-19:00•Admission fee: €6•Concessions: €3•Concessions for: Non - EU College and University students, by presenting their student ID, senior EU Citizens (over the age of 65), by presenting their ID card or passport and Non EU individuals of 18 years old and under•Free admission for: visitors under 19 years old who are citizens of countries/members of the EU, by presenting their ID, university students from E.U. countries, senior citizens (over 65 y.o.), ICOM card holders, registered tour guides, by presenting the corresponding ID, journalists, by presenting their press card and individuals with special needs ( e.g. disabled, blind) and their escorts. Evangelismos, 2 Rizari Str., Evangelismos, +302107244464

National Historical Museum

Even the building that this museum is housed in since 1960 is historical: it was once the first Greek House of Parliament. Located in front of its entrance, and the museums symbol, stands the commanding bronze statue of General Theodoros Kolokotronis. The museum trails the history of Greece since the fall of the Byzantine Empire in 1453 through archival records, photographs, costumes and flags. Tue-Sun 10:0016:00•Closed Mon•Admission fee: €3•Concessions:

€1.5 Concessions for: students and senior citizens (+65 y.o.)•Free admission: every Sun, under 18 y.o. Syntagma, 13 Stadiou Str., Syntagma, +302103237617

Numismatic Museum of Athens

One of the oldest public museums in Greece, founded in 1834 it hosts a wide collection of coins andmedals,dating from Classical, Macedonian, Roman and Byzantine eras up to the foundation of the Modern Greek state. The collection is housed in Iliou Melathron, a neoclassical building near Syntagma (Constitution) Square. It was built and designed by German architect Ernst Ziller, and was originally the residence of celebrated archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, the father of Mycenaean and Trojan archaeology. Tue-Sat 08:00-20:00•Sun 08:3015:00•Mon 13:30- 20:00•Admission fee: €6•Concessions: €3•Concessions for: citizens of Member - States of the European Union who are over 65 years old, upon presentation of their ID card or passport for verification of their age and country of origin and students of University - Higher Education Institutes, Technological Educational Institutes or equivalent Schools of countries from outside the European Union, upon presentation of their student ID cards• Free admission for: under 18 y.o. Syntagma, 12 Panepistimiou Str., Syntagma, +302103632057, +302103612834, +302103612872

Jewish Museum

The aim of this museum is to provide a vivid picture of Jewish life and culture over a 2,300 year course. The museum displays more than 10,000 artifacts (some of them unique), investigating the Greek - Jewish experience in both religious and secular terms, in an area of 800 sqm. There are also plenty of planned SUMMER 2022_ 19

Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation

Situated in the heart of Athens, the Museum of the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation houses a world-renowned modern and contemporary art collection that includes rare masterpieces by European avant-garde artists. The collection features works by Cézanne, van Gogh, Gauguin, Monet, Degas, Rodin, Toulouse-Lautrec, Bonnard, Picasso, Braque, Léger, Kandinsky, Miró, Giacometti, Balthus, Pollock, Bacon, Lichtenstein and Botero as well as acclaimed modern and contemporary Greek artists including Parthenis, Bouzianis, Vassiliou, Hadjikyriakos-Ghika, Tsarouchis, Moralis, Tetsis, Takis, Chryssa, Stamos and others. Guided tours in Greek, English and French also take place. The Museum Shop offers a broad range of exclusive, custom-made products inspired by the collection and designed by Greek artists, while the Café-Restaurant, which boasts a cozy and discreet urban garden, specializes in creative Mediterranean cuisine with a twist. Wed-Thu 10:00-18:00•Fri 10:00-20:00•Closed Tue•General Admission 10€•Concession Tickets 7€ for 13-26 y.o. and over 65 y.o.•Free admission for under 12 y.o., people with disabilities and their accompanying person 13 Eratosthenous Str., Pangrati, +302107252895, goulandris.gr

20 _ SUMMER 2022

activities and exhibitions. Mon-Fri 09:00-14:30 •Sun 10:00-14:00•Closed Sat•Admission fee: €6 • Concessions: €3 (for students) •Guided tours for groups: €50 (upon arrangement) Syntagma, 39 Nikis Str., Syntagma, +302103225582

Benaki Museum of Greek Culture

A major institution and landmark in the City of Athens, the museum is located in the upmarket district of Kolonaki. Housed in one of the most beautiful neoclassical building hosts more than 40,000 items in its permanent collection, illustrating the character of the Greek world through a spectacular historical panorama: from antiquity and the age of Roman domination to 1922, the year the Asian Minor disaster took place. Its founder, Antonis Benakis, belonged to one of the leading families of the Greek diaspora. Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00•Thu 10:00-00:00•Sun 10:00-16:00•Closed Tue•Admission fee: €12• Temporary exhibition: €8•Reduced: €9•Reduced on temporary exhibition: €6•Reduced for: students, persons over 65 y.o., archaeologists and European Youth Card holders•Free admission for: under 22 y.o, museum members, disbaled persons and their guides and ICOM members. Syntagma, 1 Koumbari & Vasilissis Sofias Str., Kolonaki, +302103671000, benaki.org

Benaki Museum / Pireos 138

Α vast industrial space (8,200 sqm with underground areas of 2,800 sqm and an internal courtyard of 850 sqm. The exhibition halls span 3,000 sqm). It is dedicated to contemporary art and design and has no permanent collections. The Museum gift shop is filled with unique pieces for house design and decoration. The café-restaurant on the ground floor serves a good selection of dishes and is a good place for breakfast. Thu, Sun 10:00-18:00•Fri, Sat 10:00-22:00•Closed

Mo-Wed•Also closed in August•Admission fee: €5-15•Reduced admission: €2,50-12•Reduced for: students, persons over 65y.o., archaeologists and European Youth Card holders•Free admission for: under 22 y.o, museum members, guides and ICOM members Kerameikos, Pireos 138 Str., Rouf, +302103453111, benaki.org

Benaki Museum of Islamic Art

Collections from India, Persia, Mesopotamia, Asia Minor, Middle East, Arabia, Egypt, North Africa, Sicily and Spain. The Benaki Museum of Islamic Art demonstrates more than 8,000 works of art, including ceramics, gold, metalwork, textiles and glass, smaller groupings of bone objects, inscribed funerary steles and weaponry, as well as the marble-faced interior of a reception room from a 17th-century Cairo mansion. Ιt also includes a section of the ancient city wall of Athens and an ancient tomb both uncovered at the level of the houses’ foundations during the preservation works. Don’t leave without a glimpse at the view from its terrace café. Thu-Fri-Sat-Sun 10:00-18:00•Closed Mon-Tue-Wed•The Café is open every Saturday until 23:00•Admission fee: €9•Concessions: €7•Reduced for: students, persons over 65y.o., archaeologists and European Youth Card holders•Free admission for: under 22 y.o, museum members, guides and ICOM members. Thissio, 22 Ag. Asomaton str. & 12 Dipilou Str., +302103251311, benaki.org

Herakleidon

The museum and its annex consist of two small and beautiful neoclassical buildings in the historic district of Thissio, nextto the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora, that look more like large homes rather than museums. Now days the motto of the museum is “Science, Art and Technology of the Ancient Greeks” and it’s hosting the exhibition “Eureka”, which is presenting the most representative of the ancient Greek technological accomplish- ments, in the area of War - military technology. The mighty war ship trireme, that ruled Mediterranean for almost ten centuries, armors, large weapons, walls, siege machines and communication systems among others, are things that you can see or learn about. Don’t forget to visit the gift shop, offering a wide selection of collectables that have been inspired by the periodic visual arts exhibitions including M.C. Escher, Constantin Xenakis and Toulouse-Lautrec. WedSun 10:00-18:00• Admission fee: €5•Concessions: €3•Concessions for: yound adults 12-18 y.o., students and pensioners•Free admission for: children up to 12 y.o., ICOM members and journalists•Family ticket: €14 (2 adults with 1 child) and €19 (2 adults with 2 children). Annex: 37 Apostolou Paulou Str., Thissio, +302110126486, herakleidon-art.gr

Industrial Gas Museum

Housed in an industrial heritage building, that supplied energy and lighting in the Athens metropolitan area for 130 years. It opened its doors in 2013, the site where the Technopolis of Athens is now located, approximately 30 years after the Athens gasworks permanently closed down. Visitors have the opportunity to tour the plant’s facilities, observe the

coal gas production line, that provided the city with power for 130 years, and discover a forgotten part of the history of Athens. The exhibits include a rich collection of photographs and archive material as well as audiovisual material, including short films and recorded interviews of factory workers and residents of the area. The collection is further enriched with items from the factory itself as well as interactive applications. It is the first industrial museum in Athens. Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00•Thu, Sun 10:00-21:00•Admission fee: €1. Kerameikos, 100 Pireos Str., Kerameikos, +302130109325, 2130109300, technopolis-athens.com

Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum

The first museum devoted to jewelry in Greece and one of the few of its kind in the world.ΩIt was established in 1993, its permanent collection includes over 4,000 pieces of jewelry and micro sculptures from over 50 collections, designed by the museum’s founder, Ilias Lalaounis, between 1940 and 2000. Lalaounis is the country’s most internationally renowned artist and jeweler. The permanent collection is enriched with donations including jewelry and decorative arts from all over the world. Lucky “Big spenders” usually head straight to the shop for 24K gifts! The museum includes many programs such as: jewelry design, making, gemology, art history, children’s theatre, special workshops on temporary exhibitions. Mon- Sat 09:00-15:00•Closed Sun and Mon•Admission fee: €5•Concessions: €4•Concessions for: Students and senior citizens•Free admission for: under 18 y.o., people with disabilities and their huides, archaeologists, journalists, members of ICOM and qualified tourist guides. Free admission every Saturday and throughout August (except for special tours). Akropoli, Karyatidon & 12 Kalisperi Str., Plaka +302109221044, lalaounisjewelrymuseum.gr

Municipal Gallery of Athens

The gallery’s collections feature the visual works of 3,000 artists –most of them Greek–, representative of the trends, influences and discussions which have marked the journey of Greek art. The museum is housed in a neoclassical building, which was abandoned until 1854 and later housed a silk processing plant, a shopping and residential complex, and the headquarters of the Hellenic Police. Of special interest are the drawings of German architect Ernst Ziller, father of neoclassical design in modern Greece. Tue 10:00-21:00•Wed-Sat 10:00-19:00 • Sun 10:00-15:00•Closed Mon•Free admission. Metaxourgeio, Leonidou & Mylerou Str., +302103243023, 2103231841

Museum of Modern Greek Culture

A treasure trove of Greek folk embroidery, weaving, traditional costumes and household items. The highlight is on the first floor: a reconstructed room from a house on the island of Lesvos with a series of murals by folk artist Theofilos. If you are a pompom shoes lover, (tsarouchia- traditional leather shoes) you will really enjoy your visit to the museum. Mon-Sun: 08:30-15:00• Closed Tue•Admission fee: €2 •Concessions: €1• Concessions for: students from non - E.U. countries, SUMMER 2022_ 21

Kotsanas Museum of Ancient Greek Technology

A journey to cutting edge technology of Ancient Greece Kotsanas Museum is located in the heart of Athens at Kolonaki district a few meters from the Greek Parliament and Syntagma Square. In a unique historic Art Nouveau building which once belonged to the family of Queen Aspasia Manou, wife of Alexander I, you may discover the panorama of Ancient Greek Technology from 2000 BC until the end of the ancient Greek world. Visitors may explore a relatively unknown aspect of Ancient Greek culture through the permanent exhibition “Ancient Greece The Origins of Technologies” which includes approximately 100 unique exhibits, from the robotservant and the “cinema” of Philon to the automatic theater of Heron, and from the Alarm Clock of Plato to the Antikythera Mechanism. The journey to the world of technology continues with Pythagoras and Ktesibios through 42 fully functional, reassembled musical instruments. The helicon and the sixth string of Pythagoras, the lyre of Hermes, the guitar of Apollo, the Homeric phorminx, the harp of Sappho, the Ptolemaic helicon, the Pan flute, the hydraulis of Ktesibios and others are presented through the exhibition “Ancient Greek Musical Instruments and Toys”. At Kotsanas Museum the hands-on experience is only to begin with! Ostomachion of Archimedes and Ancient Greek strategy games along with a series of educational workshops and thematic guided tours are some of the Museum highlights. Opening hours: Monday - Sunday 10:00 to 18:00 6 Pindarou Str. & Akadimias, Athens, www.kotsanas.com

senior citizens from E.U•Free admission: persons under 19, EU students, classical studies and Art students, journalists, ICOM-ICOMOS members, tour guides and disabled people. Akropoli, 22 Panos Str., Plaka, +302103229031, melt.gr 22 _ SUMMER 2022

Museum of Ancient Agora

A small museum housed in the renovated Stoa of Attalos, within the archaeological site of the Ancient Agora. Its collection mainly consists of findings from wells, deposits, burials, workshops and sanctuaries. The highlights include art dating all the way back to the stone age, every-day life objects, and artifacts related to the Athenian democratic functions during the Classical period. It is where in 2003 the Treaty of the European Union enlargement was signed. Tue-Sun 08:30-15:30•Mon 10:00-15:30•Admission fee: €8•Concessions: €4•Concessions for: citizens of Member - States of the European Union who are over 65 years old and students of University - Higher Education Institutes, Technological Educational Institutes or equivalent Schools of countries from outside the European Union•Free admission for: EU students, persons up to 18 y.o., members of the ICOM-ICOMOS Monastiraki/ Thissio, 24 Adrianou Str., +302103210185

Athens Olympic Museum

Located within the Golden Hall Mall, the Athens Olympic Museum offers the epitome of a modern museum experience. Walking through its chronologically organized exhibits, audiovisual programs, and interactive displays, visitors teleport through two thousand years of Olympic History. The museum begins by setting the scene in ancient Olympia, the site of the first Olympic Games, and continues to the present day, with a display commemorating the upcoming 2022 Winter Olympics. Real uniforms, medals, and torches from each Olympic Game are on display, thanks to donations made by former athletes. The museum also takes care to document how gender, race, and disability have factored into the Games over time, and notably features a section on the Paralympic Games. Open Mon-Sun 10:00-21:00 Athens Olympic Museum, 37A Kifissias Av. (Golden Hall Mall), Maroussi, +302106885560

Eleni @ Tasos Thomoglou

Ancient Drama Agamemnon by Aeschylous

22-23/07 21:00 Ancient Theater of Epidaurus A unique chance to experience the world premiere of “Agamemnon” by Aeschylous directed by Ulrich Rasche. In the first chapter of Aeschylus’ Oresteia trilogy, Agamemnon’s homecoming signals a new, bloody chapter of violence when he is murdered by his wife, Clytemnestra. One of the most exciting new German directors, Rasche, is noted for his unusual and impressive scenic language. His actors are often driven towards a deeply existential and “manic” style

of performance, combining text, movement, and rhythm.

Antigone by Sophocles

05-06/08 21:00 Ancient Theater of Epidaurus In the aftermath of the Civil War in Thebes, the city’s champions celebrate their victory, trying to erase the days of insecurity and misery from memory. Young Antigone also “celebrates”: a celebration of disobedience, energized by an enthusiastic resistance against the political pragmatism of tyranny. Established Lithuanian director Cezaris Graužinis returns to the Athens Epidaurus Festival with

Agamemnon Residenz theater @ SimonKoy

The Athens Epidaurus Festival is Greece’s leading cultural organization and one of the oldest continuously running festivals in Europe; it has been taking place for 67 years. It has welcomed some of the greatest local and international music, dance and theater acts, attracting large audiences from all over the world. In addition to the Odeon of Herodes Atticus and the Ancient Theater of Epidaurus, it is also held at five venues in the Peiraios 260 industrial venue.

24 _ SUMMER 2022

Opera Tosca by Giacomo Puccini

Tosca @ A. Simopoulos

28-31/07 21:00 Odeon Herodes Atticus Tosca: an opera diva, insanely jealous of her lover. Scarpia: a powerful man taking pleasure in the pain of his victims. Noble patriot Mario Cavaradossi is caught and led to his death: not on account of his ideas, but because he has won the heart of Tosca. Audiences will enjoy a thrilling and highly dramatic version of Tosca, faithful to the composer’s spirit; the revival of the successful production of the Greek National Opera originally presented in 2012 under the helm of famous Argentinean director Hugo de Ana. Acclaimed chief conductor Philippe Auguin serves as conductor, with the participation of world-renowned opera singers.

a strikingly contemporary, timely adaptation of Sophocles’ tragedy.

Helen by Euripides

19-20/08 21:00 Ancient Theater of Epidaurus In the tragedy Iphigenia in Aulis, the main heroine dies for the sake of a futile, destructive imperialist war. A decadent society sacrifices Iphigenia, who embodies an entire generation of young people. Themis Moumoulidis presents a performance reflecting on the past, present, and future. The production is pervaded by a complete musical work by composer Stavros Gasparatos, who is inspired by the form of Iphigenia, creating a parallel narrative in dialogue with the direction.

Ajax by Sophocles

29-30/07 21:00 Ancient Theater of Epidaurus Once an admired warrior on a par with Achilles, Ajax ends up becoming a deadly enemy of the Greek army leaders in the War of Troy and a pawn in the hands of gods, unable to grasp the spirit of a newly emerging era. A production of the National Theater of Greece, Ajax marks the directorial debut of well known Greek actor/director Argyris Xafis at the Ancient Theater of Epidaurus.

Aias @ KarolJarek

12-13/08 21:00 Ancient Theater of Epidaurus Written in the aftermath of the Athenians’ crushing defeat at the Sicilian Expedition, Euripides’ Helen is notable both for its anti-war qualities and its focus on virtues such as the power of oath and intelligence, both personified in the titular heroine. Produced by the National Theater of Northern Greece and directed by Vassilis Papavassiliou.

Iphigenia in Aulis

SUMMER 2022_ 25

Exploring Athens New York City has its boroughs, Paris has its arrondissements, and Athens has its neighborhoods. From sightseeing to shopping, from fine dining to clubbing, each Athenian neighborhood has its own unique character, offering different things to those who visit it. Chances are, in order to truly experience Athens, you’ll have to explore its neighborhoods too!

©daria volkova/unsplash

By Isabelle Clayton

Piraeus

Piraeus, a port in ancient times, remains the largest port in Europe and a place rich with history. If you plan on visiting the islands while in Greece, arrive in Piraeus a few hours early to explore the Hellenic Maritime Museum, or to feast on fresh seafood with an idyllic view of the Aegean Sea.

26 _ SUMMER 2022

Glyfada

In Glyfada, young people wear designer brands and luxury yachts float peacefully on the pristine sea. With places to shop, clear water beaches, and bustling nightlife, Glyfada is a place for both tourists and locals alike.

Exarcheia

In Athens’ most bohemian neighborhood, you can expect to see walls painted with powerful political messages, young people engaging in intellectual conversations in cafes, and live rock bands performing in nightclubs. Especially popular among the college demographic, many come here for an inexpensive bite to eat, or to shop at its vintage clothing stores.

Piraeus ©Eurokinissi • Glyfada ©ANTONIS NIKOLOPOULOS /EUROKINISSI • Exarcheia ©THANASIS KARATZAS • Monastiraki-Thisseio ©andrea leopardi/unsplash • Plaka ©E.DAKOULA • Historic Center ©hert niks/unsplash • Kolonaki ©THANASIS KARATZAS • Kifissia ©CHRISTOS KEDRAS

Stroll through the streets of these two neighborhoods with a view of the Acropolis, and purchase souvenirs or bags of roasted nuts from vendors atop the site of the ancient Agora (marketplace). Monastiraki is one of the most notable shopping destinations in Athens, hosting a weekly Sunday flea market, and is popular among tourists for its tavernas and bars. Thisseio is far less rowdy, with roof-top restaurants perfect for a romantic dinner, or an Open Air Cinema showing movies on crisp summer nights.

Likely one of the most touristic neighborhoods in Athens, Plaka is a tight knit matrix of small houses, restaurants, shops and cafes, directly below the Acropolis. As you walk through the cobblestone streets of Plaka, buildings dating back to the Ottoman occupation of Greece and ancient remains of the Roman Agora are sure to make you feel like you are traveling back in time.

The Historic Center of Athens is as much a modern hub as it is a place of historical significance. Between Syntagma, Monastiraki, and Omonia, this neighborhood is the site of the city’s government (in Syntagma Square) and corporate headquarters, but also hosts important cultural landmarks, like the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and the Athens Academy, Library, and University trilogy.

Monastiraki-Thisseio

Plaka

Historic Center

Kolonaki

Kifissia

Gazi

Directly above Pangrati, Kolonaki is one of the most wealthy neighborhoods in Athens. What sets it apart is not only its hip restaurants, trendy bars, and designer boutiques, but its placement on the steep incline below Lycabettus Hill.

Kifissia is a wealthy residential neighborhood in Northeast Athens. It undoubtedly juxtaposes the city center, with its picturesque parks, manicured lawns, large mansions, and even, bike lanes.

In Gazi, tightly packed restaurants and clubs hum with music and dance into the early hours of the morning. Once the site of the Athens gasworks, the neighborhood now features incredible displays of street art, as well as the Technopolis, a venue for art exhibitions and concerts.

SUMMER 2022_ 27

by Christina Vassiliadis

From the tranquility of the blue clear waters and the alluring sandy beaches to the rocky inlets of Lavreotiki with small and almost private swimming areas, from the dazzling lights emanating from its vibrant nightlife to a romantic stroll on the white paved paths and from a movie night under the stars to a high-end fine dining experience or a journey through the marvels of ancient history, Athens Riviera has a lot to offer. Hop on the tram from Syntagma Square to Voula and indulge your senses with an «island-like» experience in the southern heart of the capital.

One of the most famous organized beaches in Athens, Astir Beach located in Vouliagmeni, approximately 30 minutes from the center of Athens, offering countless sun beds and umbrellas, as well as a bar, restaurant, boutiques, spa treatments and many more services. The price for one umbrella, two sun beds (maximum of 2 people) costs €50 on weekdays and €80 on weekends, kids from4-12 y.o. can enter for €20. Another private beach, having a more affordable entry

fee than Astir beach, is Akti Vouliagmenis, a 650 meter coast offering tennis, basketball and beach volleyball courts, for those who love sports. On weekdays general admission costs €10 and on weekends €15, while persons over 75 and students get a reduced entry fee of €5 on weekdays and €8 on weekends. For those who prefer a natural, less organized beach, Lavreotiki Riviera is the place for you. Many continuous bays with beautiful waters and golden sand, however more rocky. KAPE beach in Sounio is a diverse beach, with sandy, pebbled and rocky sections. If you want to avoid large groups of people it is ideal to visit on weekdays, as it attracts a lot of visitors on the weekends. Additionally, a trip to Lake Vouliagmeni is a must, for an unforgettable swimming experience, a natural lake with fresh spring and seawater where the water is always warm, making it a popular spot. For sailing enthusiasts, there are countless marinas scattered along the coastline of the Athens Riviera that offer daily catamaran cruises along the coastline, swimming in the most beautiful waters and dinning on board parked, off the Athenian shoreline, and enjoying the beautiful sunset. Standing for an eternity at the end of the Sounio Peninsula at the southernmost point of Attica, the imposing ruins of the Temple of Poseidon bathed in a vibrancy of colors as the sun dives into the sea, captivate your mind and soul. The temple dedicated to the God of the Sea, cited as holy grounds by Homer and Herodotus, was made entirely of white marble and has been welcoming visitors for 2.500 years. Right below

The cool summer breeze rustles through verdant tree leaves in a play of abundant sun light and shadow, giving shape to an incredible stretch of coastline in the south suburbs of Athens that only a handful of visitors know about. Spanning from Piraeus to Sounio and some 16km (9.9 mi) from downtown Athens, the Athens Riviera can take you oceans away from Greece, to a magical place, worth exploring.

Athens, where you can enjoy the Athenian sea breeze while watching the latest movies. For the food lovers visiting the Athens Riviera, there are countless restaurants scattered all along the Athens Riviera for everyone’s taste from Mediterranean, Italian, sushi and more, there is no doubt you will find a restaurant that suits your taste. For a great Italian, Mercato, an upscale trattoria located at the famous Astir Place, authentic Italian dishes enjoy on the outdoor terrace overlooking the Athenian Riviera. For a beautiful view of the sunset right above the water, try Moorings, a café in the afternoon and restaurant later in the day, with Mediterranean cuisine, a sushi menu and an impressive wine list, it is the perfect restaurant to relax with a beautiful view of the water and a delightful dining experience. If you are travelling with kids, there is a plethora of parks and playgrounds featuring loads of family activities. Voula’s Park, also known as Notos, is one of them. At Notos, a large café-bar, adults can relax with a coffee or a drink, while children play in the safe playground. Additionally a perfect place for kids and adults alike, Stavros Niarchos Foundation is a multifunctional and sustainable environment in Kallithea. The whole center consists of the National Library of Greece, the Greek National Opera and the 210,000m² Stavros Niarchos Park that can be enjoyed by both parents and their children. One of the center's mission is to create a safe, creative and educational environment for kids to play and have fun in.

lays a small beach with two small taverns, perfect for a quick swim and a bite after visiting the Temple. Heading to the top of the hill to watch as the sun sets behind the Tempe of Poseidon, is the perfect ending to a busy day in Cape Sounio. If you prefer a relaxed day at the Athens Riviera, just walking along the coastline, through all the areas from Faliro, to Glyfada, Vouliagmeni, Varkiza, Lagonissi and more are just some of the areas you can walk through, all with a unique atmosphere, from beach bars turning into night clubs, to beautiful views of the beaches. Each area offers different activities for all kinds of people, from romantics to food lovers and generally for those who love Greek summers. After the sun has set, the main focus moves to the vibrant nightlife of the Athens Riviera. Alimos, Glyfada, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza offer some of the best beach bars and nightclubs, with people drinking and having fun until the early morning hours. Some of the most famous nightclubs in Athens are located in the Riviera, loved by both locals and visitors. All of them offer a unique and unforgettable experience with nonstop music and partying all night long. For the film lovers, some of the best open-air cinemas are located at the Athens Riviera. Cine Floisvos, located in the Floisvos Marina Park, open since 2003, is one of the newest open-air cinemas in Athens. An outdoor cinema experience right next to the seas, still being relatively close to the city center, just a 15 minute drive or 20 minute tram ride from downtown

Set your compass south and let yourself soak up a breathtaking coastal view only a short drive from the bustling capital. From the enchantment of the ancient Temple of Posidon to the elite superyacht marinas and the dazzling nightlife, Athens Riviera boasts abundant options for a memorable summer stay.

If you’ve only got a single day to spend in Athens, it’s probably a clever move to chart out your day’s agenda beforehand to ensure you’re able to maximize your time and make the most of your experience. If you don’t know where to start, fear not! We’ve collated the best of Athens below — which should give you a few ideas for a jumping off point, if not an entire travel plan. Feel free to personalize it to yourself, and your individual interests and attractions. By Sreesha Ghosh

30 _ SUMMER 2022

Syntagma Square

8:00 A.M.

If you’re trying to squeeze as much daylight as possible out of your 24 hours in Athens, it might make sense to start your day at 8 A.M. in Syntagma Square. Syntagma Square is the central square of Athens, and a major point of its commercial, political and social life. Named after the constitution (syntagma) King Otto was forced to grant his people after a popular and military uprising in 1843, Syntagma Square continues to be a stage for demonstrations and political rallies above and beyond being a hub for tourist activity. Syntagma Square also houses the Parliament building, built around 1842 as the residence for King Otto and Queen Amalia and serving as the Parliament quarter since 1934. At the bottom of the Parliament stands the Monument of the Unknown Soldier, a cenotaph (tomb erected in honor of persons whose remains are elsewhere) commemorating all fallen soldiers in war. The monument is guarded by the evzones, members of the presidential guard. Every 15 minutes, the two evzones standing guard switch position by way of a strange yet oddly alluring choreography. We recommend getting to Syntagma Square at 8 A.M. so you can pick up early breakfast and catch the changing of the guards, officially k icking off your day in Athens. Temple of Olympian Zeus

9:00 A.M.

From Syntagma Square, we recommend that you head toward Hadrian’s Arch and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. The Temple of Zeus is one of the biggest ancient temples of the Greco–Roman Empire, and one of the most impressive Athenian archeological sites. This massive temple was only completely in 132 AD by Emperor Hadrian after being partially built and then left in limbo for about 700 years for a variety of different reasons. After building a colossal statue of Zeus to adorn the temple, Hadrian then proceeded to build an equally large one of himself. Although the temple is mostly decayed today, it does not take too much imagination to envision the beast it must have been so long ago. In fact, the Corinthianstyle columns (17m high with a base diameter of 1.7m) are only 15 of a temple that had a whopping 104. Depending on how interested you are, you can choose to observe the temple from a distance or actually enter it. If you choose to visit, the entry ticket costs approximately 6 euros. The Acropolis

10:00 A.M.

No visit to Athens is complete without a visit to the infamous Acropolis. The Acropolis is an ancient citadel located on a rocky outcrop above the city and contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historic importance, the most famous being the Parthenon. Developed in the 5th century, it was the breeding ground of many modern ideas and innovations, including democracy itself,

which grew from the conversations people and philosophers had on the lands of the Acropolis. The most famous building in the Acropolis is the Parthenon, dedicated to the Goddess Athena. An enduring symbol of Ancient Greece, although the Parthenon has suffered much damage over the centuries, including the loss of most of its sculpture, its basic structure has remained intact. Moreover, the Greek Government is actively working to restore it. Other sights of particular interest in the Acropolis also include Socrates’ old stomping ground and the Erechtheion. Note that the Acropolis is an immensely popular tourist destination, and even in offseason, can be overrun with a colossal number of visitors — making it important to take particular steps to avoid the swarm and improve the quality of your experience. One recommendation is to visit the Acropolis during the cooler hours of the day, either early in the morning around 8 A.M. or late in the afternoon at about 5 to 6 P.M. when there is only a fraction of the people who visit in droves during the morning hours. Another is to avoid the main entrance of the Acropolis and instead use the lesser-traveled south slope entrance. It’s also a good idea to get your ticket in advance, as well an audio guide or guidebook, so you know what you’re looking at. The Acropolis Museum

11:30 A.M.

If you’re particularly interested in history and archaeology, then you should absolutely visit the Acropolis Museum. Here, you get to see the best orientation of what you’ve already seen at the Acropolis — in fact, it might come as a surprise to some of you that the museum actually holds the original pieces excavated from the Acropolis whereas buildings on the site itself comprise mostly of replicas. Displaying numerous incredible statues and art saved, preserved and conserved from the archaeological site, the museum’s presentation is simply exquisite. The ticket to enter the museum is 10 euros. If you’ve only got 24 hours, we’d recommend only entering the museum if you’re seriously interested. On the other hand, if you’re looking for a museum to visit for more than just the originals of duplicates you’ve already seen, we recommend the National Archaeological Museum. The most comprehensive museum in Athens, it’s also the only place you can see archaeology from every single region in Greece across every single time period. Note, however, that it does take about four hours to see it thoroughly and it’s recommended to take a guided tour to really understand the importance and context of the different artifacts you’ll undoubtedly be awed by. Plaka

1:00 A.M

Plaka is the oldest section of Athens. Located in the shadow of the Acropolis, it seems almost a world away from the urbanism of the city. Jewelry stores, souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes run abound in the area — in fact, Plaka is a pretty good stop to get SUMMER 2022_ 31

Monastiraki Square

2:30 P.M.

Bordering Plaka is Monastiraki Square, a flea market neighborhood in the old town of Athens, and one of the principal shopping districts. Not only does it boast landmarks and archaeological monuments like Hadrian’s Library, the Ancient Agora and the rebuilt Stoa of Attalos, with a museum exhibiting Athenian artifacts, but its flea market is also a huge tourist hit, with a jumble of shops selling everything from artisanal soaps to handmade sandals to souvenir T-shirts. A boiling cauldron of people, ideas, civilizations, and religions, Monastiraki is a must-visit!

Dionysiou Areopagitou Street

4:00 P.M.

After Monastiraki, we’d recommend taking a stroll along one of the most picturesque boulevards in all of Athens, offering an extraordinary view of the southern slope of the Acropolis, along with the Parthenon itself. Most of the buildings on one side of the road facing south were constructed in the late 19th and early 20th century in the neoclassical or modernist style, reflecting the aristocratic style of the street. Named after Dionysius the Areopagite, the 1st Athenian convert to Christianity and patron saint of the city of Athens, this not only offers you an opportunity to walk like a true local Athenian but also make for fantastic photo-ops.Some places to look out for as you walk along include: the Sanctuary and Theatre of Dionysus, where the plays of the great Greek dramatists like Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes were performed, the Sanctuary of Asclepius, a temple that housed patients and functioned as a basic hospital, and the Stoa of Eumenes, a walkway where theater-goers at the time could take shelter from sun or rain. Varvakios Central Market

5:00 P.M.

Varvakios Central Market is, to put quite simply, the Grand Central Station of food, where people from all walks of life converge to discover the freshest and most delicious ways to satiate their hunger. Everyone shops here, from celebrity chefs to neighborhood

Plaka 32 _ SUMMER 2022

©Eurokinissi

some lunch; you’ll be able to enjoy outdoor seating and authentic Greek food. As for the souvenir shops, you’re likely to discover a number of interesting objects, some more eclectic than others, antiques, hand painted icons, carvings and paintings, all likely compelling enough for you to feel like you need to get souvenirs for everyone you know. There is almost too much to do in Plaka over several weeks, much less several hours. A handful of places worth visiting include: Cine Paris, the best outdoor movie theater in Athens, Angelo the Ouzo King, the shop that prides itself on having the most varied lineup of ouzo as compared to any other shop in Athens, and Remember, a punk-fashion store. Plaka is paradisiacal, and has something for everyone, no matter what you’re looking for in Greece.

©VASSILIS REBAPIS/Eurokinissi

Follow @athensvoice Upload your favourite moments on instagram using the hashtag #athensvoice

grocery store owners. Named after one of Greece’s national heroes, gentleman pirate Ioannis Varvakis, this is a tribute to the everyman, as the Athens Central Market knows no class divides. Fish reign supreme, with almost a hundred fishmongers located in the heart of the building block. Even if you’d rather not buy anything, you’ll still be in total awe of one of the most interesting places in Athens. Alternatively, if you’re looking for any herbs, spices, or oils, this is absolutely the place to get them. Note that parts of the market start closing at 3:00 P.M (if you’d like to go earlier), but others are open until 7:00 or 8:00, so you will have plenty o f time to look around.α Psiri

6:30 P.M.

Psiri is yet another neighbourhood in Athens, known for its restaurants, bars, live music tavernas, and small number of hotels, and our last destination for the day. While it might seem early to close down, rest assured, Psiri needs all the time it can get. We recommend starting with its street art—just like street artist INO once said in a New York Times interview, ‘If you want to learn about a city, look at its walls.’ Psiri boasts breathtaking and vibrant street art like that of Alexandros Vasmoulakis, who mixes collage, photography, paint, and digital media to that of Jupiterfab, known for his projects that express social and political opinions.

From there, we’d recommend heading back to the main square and catching dinner at one of its many restaurants and tavernas. Restaurants in Psiri are mainly traditional, with authentic Greek mezze and homemade specialties. Whether it be Kokkion, the artisan ice cream parlour, or Mavros Gatos, a Greek and Mediterranean restaurant, there is no shortage of the delicious in Psiri, so make sure you come hungry. As the evening arrives, cafes, restaurants, souvlaki shops, ouzeries and bars in Psiri begin to open and soon, the neighborhood starts buzzing with the sound of music and conversation. Athens really comes alive at night and Psiri is at the centre of all that action. Nightlife is vibrant and bohemian, with small, friendly bars and hip entertainment. Tranzistor is a lovely place with colorful decoration and reasonable prices, Cantina Social, with its renowned Russian beers, attracts the counter culture crowd, hipsters and bands and Psira, one of the earliest bars to open in this district, is the favorite hangout for students. Pick up a beer at Beertime or some ouzo if you aren’t already tired of it. Psiri is also really popular for its live music. A small bar called The Party has live rock and pop music just about every single night; other bars and clubs include Therion, 7-Times Club, Barrett Bar and so much more. If you still feel like you could use another drink after Psiri, you can finish off your day either at 360 Degrees or at A for Athens rooftop bar in Monastiraki. SUMMER 2022_ 33

A first-timer in Athens By Georgia Skamagka

The National Observatory Visitors’ Center at Thission It is situated on the Hill of the Nymphs right across the Parthenon and to the north of the Hill of P n y x w h e re M e t o n w a s p e r fo r m i n g t h e f i r s t astronomical observations of the classical Greek period using his heliotrope. Explore the Geoastrophysics Museum and the library of the Observatory, which contains historic books and documents of significant importance as well as a variety of scientific instruments of the 20th and 19th century. Open-air cinemas A movie night out! Cine Pari and Cine Thission are two of the most celebrated open-air cinemas in the city. Actually these two are the only open-air cinemas in central Athens with a stunning view to the Acropolis. Watching a great film under a starry summer sky, however, comes with a serious price. You might as well be distracted from the movie and miss the whole story. Piraiki An eastside story unfolds by the “rocks of Piraiki”, the quaint old-fashioned settlement to the east of the main port site of Piraeus. A widely paved “vein” of almost 5 kilometers runs along the picturesque seaside, from the Naval Academy to Alexandras Square, making the route ideal for walks especially late in the afternoon when the entire Attica across the horizon (from Faliro to Glyfada) is bathed in sunset colors. Vintage street lambs illuminate your footsteps in shades of light yellow and the remnants of the ancient Themistoclean Wall blend harmonically in a lengthy frame of local-favorite fish tavernas, coffee joints and cocktails hangouts. The flea-markets at Elaionas and Tavros A colorful patchwork of people, loud voices, music, the smell of souvlaki and barbequed meat and cars parked on the background in total “anarchy”, is quilted every weekend at Elaionas and Tavros districts in southwest Athens. Antiques, crockery, furniture, decorative items of all shorts, vinyls, typewriters and turntables, books and comics, clothing, shoes, jewelry, artworks and paintings and various tools, practically anything you can imagine, make up the scene of a unique treasurehunt for the explorers of the “irreplaceable”.

Parnitha

Parnitha Cable car Hiking the abundant pine forest along the mountain trails of Parnitha’s National Park sounds re-energizing and most intriguing if you have some extra time while in Athens, not only for the unique landscape with its significantly rich flora and fauna, but rather for the ecstatic view of Attica, far and beyond. To get to this magnificent top you can either use your car or better yet, use the cable car and brace yourself for the most exciting ride ever! First and only stop: the “Mont Parnes” Casino. Either you choose to challenge your luck or walk the mountain paths to the two beautiful refuges of Bafi and Flabouri, it is an “adventure” worth living. 34 _ SUMMER 2022

Cape Sounio A 70-kilometers drive away from the city center and along a seaside road that reveals the bluest waters, you’ll find yourself gazing at the sunset in absolute wonder surrounded by the ancient ruins of the majestic Temple of Poseidon on the southernmost tip of the Attic peninsula. Take a dip in the crystal clear waters of the neighboring beaches at Legrena or Lavrio, just perfect, and enjoy fresh fish and side-dishes at the traditional tavernas lining along the coast. The beach at Varnavas White sand, deep blue and sapphire waters, miraculously unspoiled. One of the most beautiful and cleanest beaches in Attica lies some 12 kilometers distance from the scenic settlement of Varnavas. Refreshing dips in the waters and fresh fish at the local tavernas. A great opportunity also to visit the historical monuments in the area, such as the 5th century BC Archaic tower and the church of St Peter and Paul.

©ANTONIS NIKOLOPOULOS/EUROKINISSI

©theo maroulis/unsplash

©sotiris dimitropoulos/Eurokinissi

Kerameikos

An archaeological site of particular importance rests literally in the heart of the city, right in the buzz of a modern metropolis, but curiously enough, remains the least visited. Kerameikos was the cemetery of ancient Athens situated on the northwest fringe of the Capital. Follow Ermou street pass the Monastiraki train station and there it is on your right. Its natural surrounding proves equally serene, almost magical: a small part of the Eridanos stream, turtles and frogs, birds and a vast variety of colorful flora.

The old Euripos bridge at Chalkida

Watching the unique tidal phenomenon of Euripos from the old sliding bridge is truly amazing. The old Euripos bridge is one of the world’s last remaining sliding bridges while the unusual effects of the tide that happens nowhere else in the world, are on full show six to seven times a month with the strait’s current changing direction as many as 14 times within a single day. Chalkida, an ideal daytrip destination, also offers scenic waterfront walks amongst fishermen dilettante and street performers. A line-up of colorful umbrellas reveals an endless stream of fish restaurants and cafes for some traditional Greek hang-out.

Ιsthmia and the Corinth Canal

Another bridge one should definitely “cross” is the submersible bridge over the Corinth Canal; actually there are two such bridges, one on each end (the bridge of Posidonia on the Corinthian side and the bridge of Isthmia by the Saronic Gulf) both surrounded by beautiful local tavernas and refreshment spots. The 6.4 kilometers long Corinth canal with its imposing rocky walls rising 90 meters above sea level is definitely a must-visit site. The canal links the Corinthian Gulf to the Saronic Gulf through the narrow 25 meters isthmus of Corinth, once an important navigational route guiding ships into the Aegean Sea. SUMMER 2022_ 35

It might not seem so at a glance but the truth is that there are few more exhilarating ways to discover the city of Athens than on two wheels. Set aside your private and public transportation for the day and follow along on any of the cycling routes we’ve set out for you below—rest assured, when you’re surrounded by some of the most astonishing geography in the world, up close and personal, you’ll be grateful that you did. by Sreesha Ghosh

1 The City Route

One of the simpler Athenian cycling experiences, this route follows the pedestrianized circle that rings the Acropolis on the wide, tree-lined boulevard of Dionysiou Areopagitou. You can bike through Plaka, Monastiraki, Thissio and Koukaki, with a slight detour around the National Garden —not only does it make for an absolutely charming urban cycling route, but you’ll also pass by literally three millennia of existence— from stunning archeological sites of ancient Greece and Rome to the busy bustle and crowded streets of the city today; the old and the new in this crazy urban patchwork. Segments of a new pedestrian walkway and bike route in Athens, the “Megalos Peripatos” (Grand Stroll) project, involves extending pedestrian and cycling areas and unifying the city’s archaeological sites and landmarks along a 6.8 km walkway.

2Poseidon’s Temple

This coastal cycling route is not for the faint-hearted— approximately 52 km in length, the road to the Temple of Poseidon at the tip of Cape Sounion is challenging but also incredibly rewarding. Cycle on highquality asphalt towards the imposing ancient temple, accompanied by the ever-faithful and majestic Saronic Gulf. The route is mostly flat with a few short hills, but even so, if your legs aren’t up to 50 klm in each direction, you can always stop early and turn around at any of the beaches or seaside towns along the way, like Vouliagmeni or Lagonisi.

4Street Art Tour

This one is a bit unorthodox as compared to most other cycling routes—but its views are just as gorgeous. Several cycling tours in Athens offer to take their customers through the city’s graffiti-sprayed backstreets and hidden corners where hip young Athenians are creating the city's modern alternative culture, including street art alleyways, unique cafés and offbeat shopping districts. While we’d recommend going with a local tour guide, you can do it by yourself—some famous street art districts include Psiri and Metaxourgeio. All that said, this is probably better oriented for experienced cyclists since you will have to navigate fairly busy streets.

5Athens by Night

If you can’t stand the crowd and the daytime heat, this option’s perfect for you. Ditch the morning route and cycle through lamplit Athenian streets at night instead. Soak up the cooling atmosphere as you pedal past the streets—surrounded by soothing melodies of street musicians and illuminated ancient Greek monuments against the dark night sky. See stunning archeological sites like the Acropolis, the Parthenon and the Temple of Zeus in a way most tourists don’t, as well as the bustling nightlife of Syntagma Square, Plaka and Psiri. Consider opting for this option only if you’re an experienced cyclist or if you have a guide so as not to get lost at night.

CYCLING ROUTES

This route goes along Athens’ longest (7 km) bicycle lane— starting from the Thissio Metro station, it passes along Ermou, and through the charming Athenian neighborhoods of Petralona, Kallithea, Tavros and Moschato. As it crosses the buried Illisos River, the route ends on an incredible coastline reveal from the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre, whose olive trees and lavender gardens are as refreshing to cycle past as the breeze that inevitably follows. From there, you can wrap up your tour—or you can keep going along the seafront promenade of the Athens Riviera, passing through Palio Faliro and Alimos to the buzzy coastal suburb of Glyfada. No matter how you spin this ride, the sights you’ll come upon are like none other. 36 _ SUMMER 2022

For an even more challenging ride, consider following along on a mountain trail—ambitious riders need not look far for incredible routes and stimulating terrain. Mount Parnitha is probably the most formidable of them, but it also rewards you with an otherworldly, lunar landscape around the nearby casino and eerie, abandoned sanatorium. Mount Ymittos is another favorite amongst seasoned cyclists—although its terrain is much rockier and requires a grueling hour’s climb. Mount Pendeli offers a thrilling descent towards the coastal beaches in Schinias. If you’re interested in mountain trails but you’re not quite to the challenge of a Parnitha or Ymittos, fear not—the area around the royal estate of Tatoi is full of idyllic trails through cypress, olive and citrus orchards—and are much easier and much more accessible for beginners.

©michael odelberth/unsplash

3The Aesthetic Route

6The Mountain Trail

Let's Meet in Athens This

company, run by a Dutch lady, and producing Dutch bicycles, offers not just a variety of tours of all ages but also arrange tailor-made routes for larger groups on request. Some of their popular bike tours include: a highlights of Athens bike tour, a bike tour through alternative Athens, the ride and bite bike tour and the archeological bike tour.

Sole Bike This is the place to go for electronic bike tours—travel through impressive ancient sites built of marble and picturesque paved alleys, all along accompanied by bike-friendly earphones that assure that you won’t miss any story-telling details. Some of their popular bike tours include: the classic Athens bike tour, the Athens Riviera bike tour, a wine tour and a night tour. Coco-Mat Wooden Bikes These bikes are made

entirely from all natural material including solid ash wood frames— thereby making them wholly sustainable yet wholly fashionable. Not only does it offer bike rentals, but also two different tours—one for ancient, archeological Athens and the other, a beach tour.

spots and insider information with must-see monuments and landmarks. You can either join a daily group tours, book a private one or just rent a bike from them.

GR Cycling They offer road, mountain, e-bikes and city bikes for rental, and several different tours should you like to be guided or accompanied. Some of its popular bike tours include: the bike tour to the temple of Poseidon, rides to Lake Vouliagmeni and Sounion and bike tours to Mount Parnitha. Travelncycle They offer half-day mountain bike tours to Marathon and Mount Parnitha, plus a range of other itineraries around Athens and Greece. Attica Paths They offer a range of guided bike rides from Athens, including to places Mount Ymittos and a Sounion bike safari tour.

Athens by Bike They offer enjoyable and active bike trips around the city, combining secret

Roll in Athens They offer small, personalized tours from 1-5 individuals in order to take into account each person's particular needs and desires. Some of their popular tours include a highlights of Athens tour and a coastal tour. FUNKyRiDE They offer a range of city, hybrid and mountain bikes for rental for anywhere from 3 hours unto 3 days, as well as repairs at their store in Koukaki. One last place to consider not for tours or for rentals but rather to experience the atmosphere of the Athenian biking community is Vicious Cycles Athens in Psiri and the Handlebar next door (a cyclingthemed café). The place is considered to be a sort of mecca for cyclists of all stripes. Not only will you experience the vibrancy of the cycling scene, but it’s also the best place to learn about cycling events, from road and mountain bike races to alleycats and raucous street parties.

SUMMER 2022_ 37

Parks, the few green spaces within the concrete jungle of Athens, provide shade and fresh air to those roasting under the Mediterranean sun. Dispersed throughout the city, parks large and small offer trails for runners, benches for picnics, and open spaces for dogs to romp around. In some, you might even find remnants of ancient ruins. By Isabelle Clayton Akademia Platonos

The National Garden The National Garden, once the Royal Garden, was created by Queen Amalia in the 19th century. Now, it stands as one of the largest gardens in Athens, with fish-filled ponds, networks of winding gravel paths, a Botanical Museum, a playground, and a zoo. Dispersed among its myriad flowers and shrubs, including the iconic acanthus, ancient ruins serve as places for people to sit and enjoy the shade.

Zappeion Garden For many Athenians, Zappeion Garden is a relic of their childhood. This green space surrounds the Zappeion Megaron, a remarkable piece of architecture used for large events, conferences, and exhibitions. On the weekends, children play among the garden’s 23 marble statues, and old friends catch up at the café or restaurant located within its wide, sand-colored paths. Diomidous Botanical Gardens

The Diomidous Botanical Gardens will be the plantlover’s paradise. As the largest garden in Athens, and the largest botanical garden in Greece, this expansive green space hosts over 2,500 species of native and global plants. The garden is organized by both plant type and region, with notable exhibitions of medicinal florae and trees from around the world. Classicists will enjoy the garden for its section of historically

Parko Eleftherias

significant plants, like the Laurus nobilis (Apollo’s laurel), and the Paliurus aculeatus (used to weave the thorn crown of Jesus).

Lycabettus Hill For an incredible birdseye view of the ancient city, Lycabettus Hill is a must see. The arduous climb to the top of the hill is offset by unbelievable views of the ancient Acropolis and the serene Saronic Gulf. For those hesitant to make the trek, the summit is also accessible by car or funicular railroad. At the top, visit the quaint church of Saint George or watch the sunset over the Aegean Sea. And, if your hike has stirred your appetite, multiple bars and restaurants are perched atop the hill, including the famed Orizontes. Pedion tou Areos: With a plethora of wildlife and monuments in tribute to the Greek heroes of the War of Independence, Pedion tou Areos is often referred to by locals as simply, the Park. Thanks to recent renovations, the park offers long, tree-lined stone pathways, perfect for both runs and long walks. However, due to its proximity to Omonia Square, it is recommended that you avoid this area in the evenings and early mornings. Philopappou Hill When key figures of Greek antiquity, including Aristides and Pericles, would address political matters to the public atop Philopappou Hill, it was known as the Hill of the

©Thanasis Karatzas

Philopappou Hill

Muses. However, upon the death of Prince Gaius Julius Antichus Philopappos, a Roman exile and major benefactor of the ancient city, a monument was erected atop the hill in his honor. With its close proximity to the Acropolis, people climb Philopappou Hill for mesmerizing glimpses of the Parthenon and the Mediterranean coast. Lesser known but equally incredible sites on the hill include the prison of Socrates and the Dora Stratou Theater.

Parko Eleftherias Parko Eleftherias is a serene section of green space with an incredible political and military past. Named Freedom (Eleftherias) Park, its monuments, Arts Center, and museums pay tribute to those who served and died here throughout the Balkan Wars and Greek military dictatorship. The park is also home to a beloved eatery, functioning as a café during the day and a lively bar throughout the night. Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC) In clear contrast to the

classical architecture of Athens, SNFCC serves as a modern academic and civic hub, as well as an expansive green space within the city. The Stavros Niarchos garden is home to a rich variety of florae, including a collection of aromatic plants which only add to the tranquility of this green oasis. Moreover, its playgrounds and water jets make this a beloved garden by the children of Athens.

©yannis papanastasopoulos/unsplash

Akademia Platonos In 387 B.C., Plato founded his Academy. Over 2 millennia later, a park marks the ground of this great philosophical center, with archeological remains decorating its meandering paths and green expanses. While it has become a popular site for picnics and Sunday strolls, the academic legacy of Akedemia Platonos endures through sporadic art exhibitions, workshops in philosophical thinking, and a Digital Museum at the park’s center. Garden of the Athens Concert Hall (Megaron): Offering not only cool respite from the Athens heat, the Garden of the Athens Concert Hall, Megaron, provides an opportunity for an immersive cultural and musical experience. From wandering through outdoor art exhibitions to listening to poetry or jazz performances as you lie in cleancut grass, this garden is surely a favorite summer destination for both locals and tourists.

Dexameni Dexameni is a local favorite, offering shade, drinks, and a perfect atmosphere for people-watching. For those planning on enjoying a movie or concert at the nearby Dexameni Outdoor Cinema, stop at this outdoor café for a delicious bite to eat.

Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center

Open cinemas During warm summer nights, outdoor film screenings are a habit most treasured by Athenians. Little tables and chairs aligned under the stars and the air filled with the scents of jasmine mixed with the distinct and irresistible flavors of hot buttered pop-corn. Here is a list of the best open air movie theaters in the Athenian neighborhoods. By Christina Vasileiadis

40 _ SUMMER 2022

Cine Thissio

Cine Dexameni

Cine Aegli

Built in 1935, this summer outdoor movie theater, found in the heart of Athens, near the historic regions of Thissio and Plaka, famous for being one of the most enjoyable open-air cinemas in the world, is perfect for a movie night out in Athens. The selection of movies ranges from old classics loved then and now to newly released movies that are carefully selected. Enjoy homemade sweet sour cherry dessert as well as handmade liquor or an ice cold homemade sour cherry juice.

Located in the center of Kolonaki, one of Athens’ most historic areas, this open-air theater is surrounded by busy streets and beautiful plants. Built in 1991 on top of the water tank that provided Athens with water up until the mid-20th century. The selection of movies ranges from blockbusters to European cinema, selected based on the quality of the movie and not necessarily its popularity.

Athens’ oldest open-air cinema built in 1903 in the garden of Zappeio Hall, next to the National Garden and the Parliament building. Its café offers a range of snacks, souvlaki skewers and other food you can enjoy while watching a movie. For a more private experience, you can book a private screening on the veranda, for up to 8 people, with an option of a private dinner prepared by a chef from the next-door restaurant Aigli.

7 Ap. Pavlou Str., +302103420864 Ticket price: MON-WED: €6.50 THU-SUN: €8.50

Pl.Dexamenis, Kolonaki, +302103602363 Ticket price: General admission €8, Student discount €5, WED €5

4 Vasilissis Olgas Ave., Zappeion, +302103369300 Ticket price: starting from €6

Cine VOX

82 Themistokleous Str., Exarcheia, +302103810727 Ticket price: General admission €7, children, students and persons over 65y.o. €6 Every MON&TUE €5 Every THU €8 for two people One of the oldest outdoor cinemas in Greece, built in 1938, located in Exarcheia. A 10-minute walk from both Omonoia and Panepistimio station, but only discovered by few international visitors. The rooftop terrace overlooks the busy Exarcheia square. It arguably has one of the best selection of films amongst the open-air cinemas of Athens.

SUMMER 2022_ 41

42 _ SUMMER 2022

International Brands Balenciaga

Bright, minimal boutique with small wonders. Evangelismos, 17 Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302107290151

Enny Di Monaco

Mugler, Louboutin, Nina Ricci, Zac Posen... shall we say more? Evangelismos, 23 Herodotou Str., Kolonaki, +302107290805/ Tria Pigadia, Mykonos, +302289077100

Free Shop

Perfect T-shirts, unique jewellery and accessories. A modern “Colette”. Panepistimio, 17 Skoufa Str., +302103616200

Gucci

Indulge yourself. Don’t forget the Jackie ’O purse. 3 Venizelou Eleftheriou Str., Athens, +302103610870

Virgil Abloh’s Italian luxury fashion label is now in Athens. Fashionable items, accessories, jewelry for men, women, children. 5 Stadiou Str., Syntagma

Prada

The Devil wears them and here you too can purchase a small “devilish” piece. Then you might want to change your name to Meryl. Panepistimio, 17 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103388386

Sotris

Endless window shopping. Arty displays. Hermès. Panepistimio, City Link, 1 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103233715

Linea Piu

Tezenis

Greek Rue Cambon. Chanel, Blumarine, Galliano, Tom Ford. All chosen carefully. Panepistimio, 6 Sekeri Str., Kolonaki, +302103606125, lineapiu.gr

Louis Vuitton

By eleni bezirianoglou

Off White

Glamorous clothes from famous exclusive brands like Topshop, Dries Van Noten, Marni. Vintage pieces can be found at the first address. 30 Panagiotou Anagnostopoulou Str., Kolonaki +302103610662/ Golden Hall, 1st floor, sotris.gr

Hermès

Whatever your shopping tastes and needs, in Athens you’ll find everything money can buy. From big shopping malls to small boutique shops, get ready to indulge yourself and take advantage of the summer sales until the end of August.

you will find them in a wide variety and surmesure. You will also find the insuperable leather accessories of the Neapolitan brand Tramontano, Sartori, Santangelo, John Lobb shoes, Roda’s wonderful silk scarves and more. Panepistimio, 14 Kanari Str., Kolonaki, +302103622860

Style does matter and this is the real thing. Panepistimio, 19 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103613938

Luisa

Designer names from Lanvin and Chloé to Cavalli and Stella McCartney. Not forgetting Yves Saint Laurent, ManoloBlahnik, Pucci and Jean Paul Gaultier. Panepistimio, 15 Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302103635600, luisa.gr

Mah Jong

A men’s store with excellent international brands. If you have a passion for KITON men’s suits,

Cosmopolitan stores with youthful collections of underwear, beachwear and nightwear, enhanced every week with new items. For women, men and kids. Panepistimio, 28 Stadiou Str., +302103225469

Calzedonia

Authentic, trendy and fashionable socks and beachwear for women, men and kids, in a highly competitive quality / price ratio. 30 Stadiou Str., Syntagma, +302103253125/ 15 Patriarchou Ioakeim Str., Kolonaki

Intimissimi

Amazing lingerie with simple, elegant Italian style, for both men and women. 5 Kanari Str., Kolonaki, +302103611883 SUMMER 2022_ 43

Sales

The official sales periods are mid-January to mid-February and mid-July until the end of August.

Where to shop

Downtown is the place to be, whether you are looking for brand names or small vintage shops and second-hand stores. Plaka, the foremost tourist area, is the standard place to buy memorabilia. Nearby, Monastiraki is home to a famous Athenian flea market. Visitors will lose themselves in a huge variety of shops that appeal to aficionados of records, jewellery, clothes, shoes and all things vintage. This is an area in which haggling is accepted by the playful and friendly shop owners. Between Monastiraki sq. and Omonia sq., one comes across the Athens Central Market, a good place to buy some local herbs. Ermou street is by far the most celebrated shopping street: a pedestrian street with large windows and a great variety of goodies, from clothes and jewellery to shoes and gifts. But when it comes to expensive brand shopping, Kolonaki is the perfect place to be. Luxury clothing, high prices and impeccably dressed customers are the norm here.

Keep in mind Pay a visit to the New Benaki Museum (138 PireosStr.); its Greek handmade jewellery is a delight. Buy a small figurine in the gift shop of the Cycladic Art Museum (Vasilissis Sofias & 1 Irodotou Str.). Clothes and accessories by Ioanna Kourbela and Zeus + Dione rate among the most elegant examples of Greek design. Try to do your shopping in the morning. You will come across all the major international brands on Voukourestiou Str. Shopping centres Attica (9 Panepistimiou str., Athens city centre) and Golden Hall (37A Kifissias Av., Maroussi) sport the widest variety of shops If you have time to kill, have a look at the interesting markets of Kifissia (northern suburbs) and Glyfada (southern suburbs).

44 _ SUMMER 2022

Greek Designers Daphne Valente

Η Daphne Valente designs timeless, sculptural clothes inspired by the Ancient Greek pleating of Mariano Fortuny. Minimal and very feminine, the clothes offer the epitome of greek haute couture. Syntagma, 3 Axarlian Athanasiou Str., Syntagma, +302103242260

DeuxHommes

The studio and showroom of Grigoris Triantafyllou and Dimitris Alexakis is the hottest place to find a limited prêt-à-porter and the current collection of the unbeatable duo. Panepistimio, 18 Kanari Str., Kolonaki, +302103614155, deuxhommes.gr

Kimalé

An innovative fashion brand that celebrates the “joie de vivre” of the global riviera. Established by Irène Mamfredos, a French designer, Kimalé merges bold African fabrics with clean and contemporary silhouettes. Limited edition clothes, jewelry and home accessories which playfully navigate between the colorful palette of African culture and the minimal side of contemporary fashion. Every item is made with love and craftsmanship in downtown Athens. Panepistimio, 21 Mavromihali Str., Exarheia, Athens, +302130292865, www.kimale.co

Parthenis

Orsalia Parthenis creates timeless fashion with a genderbending, minimal feel and elegant Greek aesthetic. Premium basics in high quality fabrics, interspersed with statement pieces, create wardrobe staples for a refined and elevated everyday look. This Summer, the iconic Greek fashion house meets the dynamic lines of David Downton, one of the world’s leading fashion artists. The collection features beachwear and pieces that reflect the common passion for timeless

sophistication and a super modern look. Panepistimio 20 Dimokritou & Tsakalof Str., Kolonaki, +302103633158, orsalia-parthenis.gr

Sophie Deloudi

Sophie Deloudi’s collections reflect her values and principles on design and fashion: high quality, perfect lining, impeccable fitting, flawless finishing, clean shapes and str.ong discrete femininity. Elaborated, edged silhouettes and insinuated sensuousness integrate the pieces destined to dress confident and elegant women on their way to the beach. Its eras’ aura combines classic design heritage of the past with a synchronous point of view. Attica City Link, 9 Panepistimiou Str., Athens, +302119900000, sophiedeloudi.gr

Yiorgos Eleftheriades Space (Flagship store)

Yiorgos Eleftheriades constructs in a mesmerizing way intellectual sartorial creations in graceful silhouettes whose dynamic nature consistently maintain balance together with fluidity. For many years, he has been cooperating with some of the most important directors and actors/actresses in Greece. The brand’s collections have been showcased in Athens, Milan, Paris and Barcelona. Evangelismos, 29 Tsakalof & Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103616272, yiorgoseleftheriades.gr

Zeus + Δione

This is the Greek Maison Hermes. Exeptionally tasteful clothes and accessories based on refined craftsmanship. Leather sandals, handbags and gold jewellery in wonderful designs made with high quality exclusivelly Greek materials. If you’re going to take home one quality souvenir from Athens, then go for this brand. 6 Voukourestiou Str., Syntagma, +302103230132

Greek Design Celia Kritharioti

Haute Couture Collections to Bridal Collections, special collaborations and red carpet looks. 8 Dedalou Str., Syntagma, +302107255357

also find high quality leather sandals and ballet flats better than Repettos! Lemisios shoes are not only exceptional, but a real fashion statement. Panepistimio, 6 Likavittou Str., Athens, +302103611161, fb: lemisios shoes Since 1912

i-D concept store

Savapile

A bright world of items unfolds in front of those who love style and modern aesthetics. Amazing jewelry, created by the most famous Greek and foreign designers, but also costume jewelry (these pieces that spice up your everyday outfits). Don’t miss out on the bags: the big collection includes avantgarde designs and more casual suggestions for every taste. Evangelismos, 12 Kanari Str., Kolonaki, +302103221801

Lemisios Shoes

Lemisios is a lovely store that opened in the heart of Athens in 1912. Here, you can have the shoes of yours dreams thanks to their custom-made orders. You will

A family-owned company manufacturing beautiful, fisherman’s wicker hats, that began in 1960. These hats, typical of the Greek summer, are handmade in many different shapes. The most famous of these is the naval cap, known as the “Zorba cap”. And the most impressive, the huge, sexy str.aw hat that works more like a parasol. 14 Monastiraki Agias Eleoussis Str., Psyrri, +302103217087, @savapile

Vassilis Zoulias

Greek fashion designer who respects and translates the historical implications that an outfit holds to today’s era, always

When you’re out and about in Athens, upload your favourite moments on instagram using the hashtag #lookmag

respecting each time’s aura. Some of his creations are seen in Netflix series “Emily in Paris“. 4 Akadimias Str., Syntagma, +302107225613

Jewellery Both Jewellery Studio

The creative meeting of two jewellery designers, George Giannoutsos and Vasia Pachi. Here, the process of jewellery design and construction is seen through all its different stages from the initial concept to the finished product. This is true not only of George and Vasia’s own collections, but also of individual commissions. Acropoli, 9 Veikou Str., Acropolis, +302114167791

Bvlgari

A “B.zero1” ring or an “Assioma” watch are the must-have items, if you want to invest in Bulgari. 20 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103609400

Cartier

You don’t have to be extra loaded to own a Cartier. This is where you can find the young collection “Entrelaces”, whose rings don’t cost much, as well as the ultimate “Love” bracelets and rock “Marcello” bags. Panepistimio, City Link, 7 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103313600, cartier.com

Fanourakis Greek designer

LinaFanouraki’sjewellery is ultimately Greek spirited but does not resemble at all the traditional ancient, like necklaces and wreaths. Using the prime materials of high-end goldsmithery, her work is modern and humorous but always classy. Evangelismos, 23 Patriarchou Ioakim Str., Kolonaki, +302107211762

Ileana Makri Store

Ileana Makri is a well-known Greek jewelry designer. Her fine designs are inspired by a multitude of symbols that exist in popular Greek culture and their meanings, such as the beads that protect of the “evil eye”, the monks’ worry beads, iridescent beetles and bugs of the Greek nature, the sea urchin and more.

Except for the tourist hotspots, like Plaka, most shops are closed on Sundays and National Holidays, with the exception of flower shops, patisseries, liquor stores and the like. Official business opening hours are 09:00-21:00 on weekdays (09:00-20:00 on Sat). However, many smaller businesses keep the older working hours (closed after 15:00 on Mon, Wed, Sat and between 14:30 and 17:30 on Tue, Thu, Fri).

46 _ SUMMER 2022

Evangelismos, 13-15 Patriarchou Ioakeim Str., +302107217982, ileanamakri.com

Kessaris

Diamonds and blues… Those aren’t icebergs – they’re diamond rings! Salesmen can be quite snobbish, but the quality is great. You’ll know the owner by his red glasses. 8a Voukourestiou Str., Syntagma, +302103711020, kessaris.gr

Lalaounis

The heart of the internationally recognisedjewellery house is located in Kolonaki. As IliasLalaounis says, “every jewel has its own history”, whether it begins in Mycenae or in Byzantium. We’ve seen CharlizeTheron wearing them. Map I13 Panepistimio, 6 Panepistimiou & Voukourestiou Str., +302103611371, iliaslalaounis.eu/portfolio

Liana Vourakis

Liana continues to honour the founding principles of her grandfather. Her collections combine fantasy and imagination along with a certain sense of nostalgia. 42 Pindarou Str., Kolonaki, +302103619441, info@vourakisliana.gr

Lito - Cabinet de Curiosités

Jewels that tell stories from long travel. Thailand, Arizona, India and Egypt. A small private museum full of treasures with the Lito Karakostanoglou signature who transforms anything old into a modern rock suggestion. Panepistimio, 25 Irodotou Str., Kolonaki, +302107295177

Marianna Petridi

Beloved artistic jewellery gallery with a permanent showroom for Greek and foreign designers. Evangelismos, 34 Charitos Str., Kolonaki, +302107217789

Minas

The ultimate rock designer. Vintage all-time classic jewels, the first choice among the trendy youth. 8 Emmanouil Benaki Str., Kifissia, +302106233577, minas-designs.com

Swatch

Code: colour. The must-have Swiss watch, you can’t stop at one. 5 Hermou Str., Syntagma, +302103313833, swatch.com/gr_el/home.html

Shopping Centres Attica

360 shops in a shop. Upmarket department store, the biggest in the city. A comprehensive selection of designer wear (Armani, Burberry, Juicy Couture, Missoni, etc.), casual brands, accessories, exclusive Joe Malone and Molton Brown distr.ibutor. A great view from the 6th floor café, and full beauty treatment on the 4th floor. 9 Panepistimiou Str., Sintagma, +302119900000, atticadps.gr

Golden Hall

Luxurious shopping centre with expensive brands, clothes, accessories, jewelry, sportswear, cosmetics, art objects, Doudesis hair salon, Mastic Spa for special beauty treatment and more. Be warned: it gets extremely crowded on a Saturday. 37A Kifisias Av., Marousi, +302106803450, goldenhall.gr

Hondos Center

It can provide you with everything you need, for your season shopping or just for a tiny elegant gift. Or go straight to the roof garden, for tasty traditional Greek cuisine, and the most beautiful view. Omonia, 4 Omonia Sq, +302105282800, hondoscenter.com

Notos Galleries

A standard department store primarily selling clothes and satisfying most of the consumption needs of the modern Athenian. Clothes, shoes, underwear, accessories, sportswear, toys. Omonia, 99 Eolou & Lykourgou Str., +302103245811, notosgalleries.gr

Shopping Spree at McArthurGlen

A mega store filled with popular brand names in clothing, shoes,

Savapile

Established in 1960, the Savapile handmade hats’ workshop is still on the same narrow alley of Psyrri neighborhood, where Lisa creates floppy dreams of “straw”. Lisa Sariyiannidou, the passionate chapelier modiste, took the reins of herfather’s business after he stood down in 2011, determined to keep the legacy of his craftsmanship alive and flourishing. Apart from the straw hats, Savapile’s reputation grew for its naval caps, commonly known as “the Zorba hat”. However, the undisputed trademark of Savapile is the oversized hats, staples of summer and female allure that Lisa sews in her sewing machine. 4 Agias Eleousis Str., Psyrri, 2103217087, @savapile

3QUARTERS

Lazing on a terrace or strolling around the city streets looking up the sky, a distinctive pattern dominates your horizon: the awnings on the balconies; green, orange, white, blue, with stripes or flower motifs, some new, some old and worn-out or torn by the wind, the rain or time, but still at place. A piece of canvas reflects the very texture of urban reality. The Athenian awnings have been an integral part of the city’s architecture, its trademark. 3QUARTERS turned this unique trademark into fashionable handmade handbags. Reuse, redefine, redesign. There is beauty in everything, throw nothing away. The message is clear. The result: beautiful, one-of-a-kind handbags made by old awnings’ canvas. 19 Agiou Dimitriou Str., Psyrri

accessories and household goods with 35 to 70% discount. +302106630840, more information on mcarthurglenathens.com

The Mall Athens

200 shops within a shop, the Village cinema complex, restaurants and cafés and a super market, all wrapped up in a futuristic design with a roof garden offering an amazing view. 35 Andrea Papandreou Str., Maroussi, +302106300000-003, themallathens.gr

Beauty- Care Cosmetics Korres

Natural Greek skincare and beauty products with exclusively natural and/or certified organic ingredients of best quality. 4 Hermou Str., Syntagma, +302103210054

Mastiha Shop

Mastic is a unique natural product that can be found only on the Greek island of Chios. The brand’s collaboration with Korres has developed exceptional products such as the mastic conditioner with mastic oil and provitamins. Panepistimio, 6 Panepistimiou & Kriezotou Str., +302103632750

Naxos Apothecary

Four in-house contemporary laboratories (Homeopathy, Phytotherapy, herbal Cosmetic and Nutrition) operate in fully controlled environments creating everything your body needs. Syntagma, 3-5 Kolokotroni Str., Syntagma, +302107222774

Sephora

All the latest fragrances, plus all the alternative collections that set global trends: Make up for ever, Sephora Products, Strivectin, OPI. Syntagma, 24 Ermou Str., Syntagma, +30 2103313167/ 2 Milioni Str., Kolonaki, +302103613051/ The Mall Athens, Marousi, +302106300125

The APIVITA Experience Store

A renovated neo-classical building designed to offer a unique and holistic experience, this is Athens’s top destination for natural cosmetics, SPA treatments, “green” hair salon and organic juice bar to refresh and energize. Discover the “natural pharmacy” where the specialists can help you create your own personal cosmetics and of course, the BEEHIVE SPA, a real beehive spa sanctuary! The spa cabins are made of real wooden bee hive

parts and the ceiling is made of honey tinted crystal elements that literally immerse the visitor in the bee world. 6 Solonos Str., Kolonaki, +302103640560

Hair Salons D. Frank

Hair cuts, coiffures, flashes, colours, everything a classical hair salon offers, as well as lots of surprises. Fragiskos is still the top Scissorhands. 50 Sina & Anagnostopoulou Str., Kolonaki, +302103603298

Georgios Doudessis

GeorgiosDoudesis’ professionalism and modern aesthetics changed the world view of Athenian hair salons forever. 39 Voukourestiou Str., Kolonaki, +302103629960, doudesis.com

Vangelis Hatzis

The best hairdresser in town. He will give you the style and haircut you didn't know you wanted but absolutely needed. The most luxurious service. Slightly specialised in naturallooking blonde colours. But don’t even think of turning up without an appointment. 196 Kifissias Av., Psichiko, +302106755664, vangelishatzis.gr SUMMER 2022_ 47

No vacation is complete without an engrossing beach read. And if, amidst the excitement of escaping to Greece for the summer, it slipped your mind to pack a captivating book in your carry-on, never fear — the myriad bookstores of Athens will have just the page-turner you’re looking for. Located all across the city, here are a few of our favorite places to purchase books throughout your stay. By ISABELLE CLAYTON

Polyglot

Polyglot’s international selection is constantly enriched with titles and authors. Thumb through more than 20.000 books in English, French, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, German, Turkish and more, both for children and adults. And if you can’t find what you are looking for, Polyglot will be more than happy to order it for you. 84 Akadimias Str., Athens,

+302103300455, fb: Polyglot Bookstore, www.polyglotbooks.gr

Anavasi

Greece is a land of overwhelming history combined with aweinspiring natural landscapes and wanders. From scenic coastlines and idyllic sand beaches to spectacular canyons, majestic rivers and imposing mountain

volumes, explore them all, starting from the wall-to-wall bookshelves of the two floors store filled with a vast range of guidebooks, maps, special trail editions created by Anavasi’s highly experienced staff and a wide display of travel guides and maps of Europe and the world. 32 Voulis Str., Athens historic center

Politeia

One of the largest bookstores in Athens, and likely the most comprehensive. The store is split into multiple sections, each accesible via different entrance points along Asklipiou Str., featuring thousands of texts to choose from, usually at discounted prices, Politeia is sure to have a book perfect for your summer reading needs. 1-3 Asklipiou Str.

Lexikopoleio

Browse among Lexikopoleio’s floor-to-ceiling shelves, and find dictionaries, picture books or newly released fiction novels. This bookstore is special not only for its selection of novels in English,

Greek Islands

A coffee table book that takes you in a fascinating journey to the wonders of the Aegean Sea. The pictures taken by photographer Katerina Katopi-Lykiardopoulou and the inspiring and admiration bountiful writing of author Chysanthos Panas make your mind wander decades back to their rich and long celebrated history and their natural beauty. An esthete portrait of the islands for those who cherish the intoxicated slow living lifestyle experience of the Greek summer.

48 _ SUMMER 2022

Greek Islands Chrysanthos Panas Assouline Editions

French, and other languages, but for the genuine warmth of its staff. 13 Stasinou Str., Athens

Book Loft

If you find yourself in the beautiful, upscale neighborhood of Kolonaki, be sure to visit Book Loft. Although relatively small, the store houses a wonderful collection of books ranging from children’s books to classical and contemporary literature. You might also come to Book Loft to purchase unique stationary gifts, notebooks and other book-oriented knick-knacks. 44 Patriarhou Ioakim Str., Athens

Evripidis

Bookshelves populate all four floors of Evripidis, housing collections of texts in a variety of languages, including English. After buying a book, or two, migrate to one of the bookstore’s two cafés, where frequent customers come to enjoy their new purchases while sipping on cool glasses of freddo espresso. 11 Andrea Papandreou, Chalandri /310 Kifissias Av., Kifissia

Lemoni

Named after the lemon trees hidden in its picturesque back yard, “Lemoni” bookstore is an open door to a lemon scented universe of magical words and unexplored horizons tucked away in the pages the carefully selected books cramming its shelves: classical and Modern Greek and foreign literature, poetry, philosophy, children’s book and international magazines, as well as a surprisingly large collection of Japanese poetry, to mention a few. 22 Irakleidon Str., Thissio

Little Tree Books & Coffee

With wooden shelves, vintage furniture and the alluring old Athens ambience, this beautiful bookstore, also a charming café, at the foothills of the Acropolis, offers hours of good book readings with an intriguing variety of publications ranging from children’s books, Greek literature and poetry, philosophy and politics, as well as exceptional

English translations of celebrated Greek novelists. Also, a satisfying volume of French and Italian classics. 2 Kavalloti Str., Athens

Poems n’ Crimes

The 1850 building hosts the offices of the Gavriilides Publications and its printed abundance of poetry collections and crime fiction. The venue, a blend of sophisticated elegance and contemporary graffiti art, also serves as a bookstore and a coffee bar where arts meets psychology, poetry meets prose, philosophy meets enthralling crime novels. 17 Agias Irinis, Athens

Le Livre Ouvert

For the French-speaking residents of the city and French visitors alike, this bookshop, overflowing with a French chic aura, feels like “home”. Here you will find a plethora of classics and best sellers of French literature as well as a great selection of international titles translated in French. An interesting array of dictionaries claims a fair portion of the shelves as well. 77 Solonos Str., Athens

SUMMER 2022_ 49

From 5* to youth hostels, there is accommodation for all budgets and tastes By Regina Filoglou

Athens is much more than a quick stop on the way to the islands. The stylish, luxurious city hotels attract thousands of tourists who wish to explore the capital and its unique beauty. With breathtaking view at Acropolis or just a few steps away from the city's nightlife, you can find everything you were dreaming of.

★★★★★ Athenaeum Intercontinental

Athens City Centre Syggrou-Fix, 89-93 Syggrou Av., +302109206000, ichotelsgroup.com

Athens Capital Hotel Athens City Centre 4 Eleftheriou Venizelou & Kriezotou Str. +302144442000, achotel.gr/athenscapitalhotel-mgallery/el

Crowne Plaza

Athens City Centre Megaro Moussikis, 50 Mihalakopoulou Str, +302107278000, cpathens.com

Electra Metropolis

Athens City Centre Syntagma, 15 Mitropoleos Str. +302141006200, electrahotels.gr

Electra Palace

Athens City Centre Syntagma, 18 Navarchou Nikodimou Str., +302103370000, electrahotels.gr

Four Seasons

Vouliagmeni 40 Apollonos str, +3021 08901000, astir.gr/four-seasons-astir-palace

Grand Resort Lagonissi

Lagonissi 40th Km Athinon-Souniou, +302291076000, lagonissiresort.gr 50 _ SUMMER 2022

Grande Bretagne

Athens City Centre Syntagma, Syntagma Sq., +302103330000, grandebretagne.gr

King George II

Athens City Centre Syntagma, Syntagma Sq., +302103222210, classicalhotels.com

Melia Athens

Athens City Centre Omonia, 14 Chalkokondili Str., +302103320100, melia-athens.com

Athens Marriott

Athens City Centre 385 Syggrou Av., +302109471000, chandris.gr

New Hotel

Athens City Centre Syntagma, 16 Filelinon Str., +302103273000, newhotel.athenshotels.it

N.J.V. Athens Plaza Athens City Centre Syntagma, 2 Vassileos Georgiou Str., +302103352400, njvathensplaza.gr

Radisson Blue Park Hotel

Athens City Centre Victoria, 10 Alexandras Str., +302108894500, athensparkhotel.gr

Royal Olympic

Athens City Centre Akropoli, 28-34 Athanasiou Diakou Str., +302109288400, royalolympic.com

Saint George Lycabettus

Athens City Centre 2 Kleomenous Str., +302107416000, sglycabettus.gr

Semiramis

Kifissia Kifissia, 48 Charilaou Trikoupi Str., +302106284400, semiramis.athenshotels.it

Xenodocheion Milos

Athens City Centre 3-5 Kolokotroni Str., +302166003300, xenodocheiomilos.com

★★★★ Alexandros

57 Michalakopoulou Str., +302107240861-9, goldenage.gr

Herodion

Athens City Centre Akropoli, 4 Rovertou Gali Str, +302109236832-6, herodion.gr

Holiday Suites Hotel

Athens City Centre Megaro Moussikis, 8 Timoleontos Vassou Str., Ampelokipi, +302106430464, airotel.gr

Athens City Centre Megaro Moussikis, 4 Arnis Str., +302107278690, holiday-suites.com

Amalia

Athens City Centre Omonia, 10 Amalias Str., +302103237301-9, amalia.gr

Athens City Centre Evangelismos / Megaro Moussikis, 25 Mihalakopoulou Str., +302107244051-6, ilisiahotel.gr

Art Hotel Athens

Mira Me

Ilissia

Athens City Centre Omonia, 27 Marni Str., +302105240501, arthotelathens.gr

Athens City Centre Monastiraki, 18 Ermou str, +302152151930, mirameathens.com/el

Athens Atrium

Novotel Athenes

Athens City Centre N. Kosmos, 21 Okeanidon Str., +302109319300-4, athensatrium.gr

Athens City Centre Larissa Station, 4-6 Michail Voda Str., +302108200700, novotelathens.gr

Athens Lotus

Periscope

Athens City Centre Metaxourghio, 9 Chiou Str., +302105249050, athenslotushotel.gr

Athens City Centre Evangelismos, 22 Haritos Str., +302107297200, yeshotels.gr

AVA Hotel & Suites

Stratos Vassilikos

Athens City Centre Akropoli, 9-11 Lisikratous Str., +302103259000, avahotel.gr

Electra Hotel

Athens City Centre Syntagma, 5 Ermou Str., +302103378000, electrahotels.gr

Fresh Hotel

Athens City Centre Omonia, 26 Sofokleous & 2 Klisthenous Str., +302105248511-6, freshhotel.gr

Golden Age Athens City Centre Megaro Moussikis,

Athens City Centre Megaro Moussikis, 114 Mihalakopoulou Str., +302107706611, airotel.gr

The Athenian Callirhoe

Athens City Centre Syggrou-Fix, 32 Kallirois & Petmeza Str., +302109215353, tac.gr

The Foundry Hotel

Athens City Centre Thisseio, Sarri 40 Str, Psirri, 2111824604, thefoundryhotelathens.com

SUMMER 2022_ 51

Titania

Athens City Centre Omonia, 52 Panepistimiou Str., +302103326000, titania.gr

Zafolia

Athens City Centre 87-89 Alexandras Str., +302106449002, zafoliahotel.gr

★★★ Achilleas

Athens City Centre Syntagma, 21 Leka Str., Syntagma, +302103233197, achilleashotel.gr

Acropolis Select

Athens City Centre Syggrou-Fix, 37-39 Falirou Str., +302109211610, acropoliselect.gr

Adrian Hotel

Athens City Centre Syntagma, 74 Adrianou Str., +302103221553, douros-hotels.com

Arethusa Hotel

Athens City Centre Syntagma, 6-8 Mitropoleos & 12 Nikis Str., +302103229431-8, arethusahotel.gr

52 _ SUMMER 2022

Academia Hotel

With a total of 60 rooms and suites and surrounded by the overwhelming traces of the city’s ancient history, Academias Hotel provides the ideal setting for harmonious interplay between intellectual creativity and a handful of leisure and business activities. Inspired by the world celebrated ancient Athenian intellect, this hotel portrays a contemporary interpretation of Plato’s Academy while featuring bespoke facilities, impeccable services and unique experiences soaked in alluring luxury. The hotel’s all-day Plato Lounge Bar is a place filled with speakeasy vibes. Spend happy hours with a glass of gin (labels from around the world) or a cocktail. On the glamorous rooftop, at Nyx Gastrobar, indulge in high-end Japanese fusion flavors or enjoy handcrafted cocktails while gazing at the majestic Acropolis that dominates the horizon. Panepistimio, 38 Akadimias & Omirou Str., Athens, +302103670000, info@academiashotel.com

Attalos

Monastiraki Syntagma, 29 Athinas Str., +302103212801-2-3, attaloshotel.com

Philippos Hotel

Athens City Centre Akropoli, 3 Mitseon Str., Makrigianni, +302109223611, philipposhotel.gr

Poseidon Hotel

Palaio Faliro 72 Poseidonos Ave., +302109872000, poseidonhotel.com.grt

Hostels Athens Backpackers

Athens City Centre Akropoli, 12 Makri Str., +302109224044, backpackers.gr

AthenStyle

Athens City Centre Monastiraki, 10 Agias Theklas Str., +302103225010, athenstyle.com

Dioskouros

Athens City Centre Akropoli, Syntagma, 6 Pitakou Str., +302103248165, hoteldioskouros.com

Hub

Athens City Centre Monastiraki, 7 Agias Eleoussis Str., +302103254754

Selina

Athens City Centre Monastiraki, 8 Theatrou Str., +302160010891

Mosaiko

Athens City Centre Syntagma, 61 Kolokotroni Str., Syntagma, +302103235000

Nubian

Athens City Centre Panepistimio, 47 Mavromichali Str., +302103390019

The Student and Travellers Inn

Athens City Centre Akropoli / Syntagma, 16 Kidathineon Str., +302103244808-2, studenttravellersinn.com

SUMMER 2022_ 53

Athens is a place to simply walk and marvel a thriving combination of history, tradition and style as they mingle with all aspects of urban life. And what a better way to explore all these intangible elements than watching the Athenian life going by while spending hours of leisure and relaxation at the coffee spots -a trend for locals- scattered around its vibrant streets north to south, complemented by sugar loaded flavors. From traditional ice cream scoops and authentic Italian gelato recipes to irresistible baklava pieces, kantaifi and nougats, and from family run pastry shops and park cantinas to museum garden cafes and high-end patisseries, Athens hosts a mouthwatering display of sweet treasures, definitely worth experiencing. By NENELA GEORGELE, KATERINA VNATSIOU

Greek Delights

Diples Deep fried honey rolls served with nuts.

Halvas

A fudge made with sesame seed paste, sesame oil and sugar. It is offered as a dessert in many tavernas, after the end of a meal.

Galaktoboureko Another popular sweet. A

Loukoumades Deep fried little doughnuts served with honey, syrup or ice cream.

Glyka koutaliou

Ryzogalo Rice pudding made of rice boiled in milk, sugar and vanilla, sprinkled with cinnamon. You can find it in dairies and super markets.

pie filled with custard and then doused in vanilla syrup.

Various Greek fruits preserved in thick sugary syrup. They come in small jars and are an ideal gift for friends back home.

54 _ SUMMER 2022

©omer haktan bulut/unsplash

Baclavas Nuts, almonds, cinnamon, cloves and syrup. One of the most popular pastry desserts.

SUMMER 2022_ 55

Arte Athens

A delicious display of colors and flavors of authentic Italian gelato with a twist of Greek tradition. Try the cream with wild cherries or the chocolate sorbet and definitely the crushing Catalino with its three layers of salty caramel. 16 Tripodon Str., Plaka, artegelato.gr FB: Arte Athens, Insta: @arte_athens

Kaggelis

For more than 40 years this pastry shop has been supplying Athens with amazing, always fresh and with the best raw materials sweets. In its shop windows you will find all the favorite Greek traditional and modern sweets, such as pastes, cakes, ice creams, while its macarons are also famous. 37 Chloes Str., Zografou, +302107756729

Le Greche

This is one of the most famous ice-cream shops in Athens. Here you are going to try pure, absolutely fantastic handmade ice cream in many flavors. It’s probably the most tasteful ice cream you have ever taste. You should definitely try it. 16 Mitropoleos, Syntagma, +302167006458/456 Mesogeion, Agia Paraskevi, +302100101617/220 Olimpionikon & Lykourgou, Neo Psychiko, +302130416299/ Flagstore +302167006416

Madame Fraise The first ghost pastry shop of Athens was set up by two exceptional and well-traveled pastry chefs who make amazing desserts, classic but also 56 _ SUMMER 2022

modern, while some of them are even sugar-free following the plant-based philosophy. You order them through Wolt app or through take away. 225 Ymittou Str., Pagkrati, +302114186086

Sweet Alchemy

The pastry chef who has changed the face of confectionary in Greece, Stelios Parliaros, studied art and pastry-making in France. Author of eight books, since 2008 Parliaros has hosted the weekly Greek TV show “Sweet Alchemies”. He has rightfully earned the title of the top Greek chef pâtissier.

Varsos

With a history that dates back to 1892, Varsos pastries have grown many Greek generations. Enjoy your breakfast surrounded by the lavish greenery of its garden and explore memorable sweet flavors of traditional pastry, such as “galaktoboureko” or the “rizogalo”, or croissants filled with chocolate and nuts. A unique array of ice creams gives your taste buds an extra thrill. 5 Kassaveti Str., Kifisia, +302108012472, varsos.gr, Fb: varsoskifisia, Insta: @varsos_ kifisia_1892

Zuccherino

Here you will find every dessert you have ever dreamed! Cakes, ice creams, pastes, many sweets without sugar, always fresh, with an emphasis on raw materials. Zuccherino has many shops around Athens, but you can see and order the desserts through their eshop: zuccherino.gr, +302109830869

In an increasingly industrial era, Athens is not what one would call synonymous to nature. On worn out roads, scorched by car fumes and petrol bombs, it often feels like all that’s left of Athenian nature is a citrus tree here and there, evening primroses, some battered pine trees and a few poplars. But the truth is—not all is lost. While it might be true that Athens has fewer sweeping natural gardens than ever, it would be incorrect to suggest that there is no greenery at all. Instead, we have observed a kind of evolution in the presence of this greenery—in the place of traditional forms of nature, we’ve seen a rising number of restaurant, cafe and museum gardens, as idyllic as any natural grove could possibly be. Let’s take a trip down the different museum and restaurant gardens in Athens, refreshing our memories with some of the classics and discovering the beauty of other hidden gems. By Sreesha Ghosh

Café & Restaurant B&E Goulandris Foundation An urban garden hides between the ground floor and the first floor of the Basil & Elise Goulandris Foundation. The atrium of the B&E Goulandris Café-Restaurant is an oasis of greenery in the heart of the city where you can enjoy creative Mediterranean cuisine with a twist. 13, Eratosthenous Str., Athens

Café at the Kerameikos Building Complex (Museum of Islamic Art)

The fresco in this colourful and lively atrium is handcrafted by Navine G. Khan-Dossos, an artist who drew inspiration from Athens’s palm trees. A feelgood environment, perfect for a quick coffee break. Mon-Wed-Sun 10.30- 17.30, Thu-Sat 12.00-20.00, Tue: Closed. Thissio, 22 Ag. Asomaton & Dipilou Str., Monastiraki, +302103251311, benaki.gr

Numismatic Museum of Athens

The Numismatic Museum houses one of the greatest collections of coins, ancient and modern, in the world. The museum itself is housed in the neoclassical mansion of archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann (known for his excavations in the ancient cities of Troy and Mycenae, later acquired by the Greek State and used to house the Greek Supreme Court and later on the Numismatic Museum), and the garden is located in its gorgeous courtyard, just a couple steps from Syntagma Square and the House of Parliament. A true oasis of serenity, removed from the busy city centre of the Greek capital, the garden is in full bloom —of both flora and ancient Greek statues. On a sunny day, consider grabbing a drink at the cafe in the garden— if you do go, you should absolutely stay until later in the evening for the stunning views to come. Also, consider

SUMMER 2022_ 57

keeping an eye on their events calendar as the Numismatic Museum organizes jazz concerts at the garden from time to time! Syntagma, 12 Eleftheriou Venizelou, +302103632057 For the most updated information, please visit: www.nma.gr or www.facebook.com/ NumismaticMuseum.Athens

Benaki Museum Café

A meeting point for the cultural crowds, one of the most popular museum cafés of Athens. Promises of unforgettable romantic afternoons with a view of the Acropolis. Wed & Fri 21:00-17:00, Thu & Sat 09:0024:00, Sun 09:00-15:00. Closed on Mon-Tue. Evangelismos, 1 Vasilissis Sofias & Koumpari Str., Kolonaki, +302103671000

Byzantine and Christian Museum Café

The Byzantine and Christian Museum resides in the Doukissis Plakentias villa—its Duchess is long gone but her home and her gardens still stand in grandeur. The gardens of the Byzantine Museum are small escapes from reality, littered across seating areas under fruits trees or near aromatic herbs and fountains. Tour the three archeological exhibitions in the gardens and take a journey across ancient Athenian history and art—from the Well-Cistern that depicts how Athens was supplied with water from ancient times to the

58 _ SUMMER 2022

present, to Paradise, which talks about Byzantine concepts of the afterlife, and the River Ilissos that paints a picture on the development of the fluvial landscape on the banks of the Ilissos from antiquity to modern times. See the birds chirp, the flowers bloom, the trees sprout, the kids run and so much more in the Byzantine Gardens. If you’re looking for a cool afternoon drink, you can also drop by the cafe-bistro Illisia. Evangelismos, 22 Vasilissis Sofias Av., Kolonaki, +302132139517 For the most updated information, please visit: www.byzantinemuseum.gr/en/gardens/

Café of the National Archaeological Museum

Located inside the Atrium, the café houses 700 plants referred to in Greek Mythology, so it offers a great combination of an Ancient Greece flavour with some exhibits of botanical interest. Mon: 13:00-20:00. Tue-Sun. 08:00-20:00. Victoria, 44 Patission Str., +302132144891

Cycladic Café

A modern secret garden right in the heart of Athens ideal for a break with a touch of Mediterranean cuisine. Mon-Wed-Fri-Sat 10:00-17:00, Thu 10:0020:00, Sun 11:00-17:00 Free WiFi. Evangelismos, 4 Neofytou Douka Str., Kolonaki, +302107228321-3

Goulandris National History Museum Garden

The Goulandris Natural History Museum is located in the elegant suburb of Kifissia and is home to zoological, botanical, marine, rock, mineral and fossil specimens, aiming to teach all those that come into contact with it about the animal and plant kingdoms and the interaction of ecosystems in Greece and the rest of the world. The museum itself is an enjoyable experience for all—but even more so is the gorgeous garden around it; brimming with over a hundred different varieties of plants, bushes and trees, it’s the perfect place to kick back and let nature envelop you. Accompanying the garden is an equally wonderful cafe, run by Dimitris Skarmoutsos and Dionysis Alertas whose food tastes just as good as the flowers look. 13 Levidou Str., Kifisia, +302108015870 For the most updated information, please visit: www.gnhm.gr/en

National Archaeological Museum Garden

The National Archaeological Museum is a “must-see” destination for any visitor arriving in Athens—but little is it known that its gardens are actually as impressive as the museum itself. A showpiece in their own right, and renovated in 2016 so as to look like an ancient peristyle courtyard, the gardens were transformed

into one of the most aesthetically pleasing exhibits in the museum, boasting native Greek species like cretan dittany, for example, that does not grow anywhere else in the world. According to legend, Aphrodite used the same herb to heal her son Aeneas after he was struck by a spear in the Trojan War. The gardens are heavily influenced by Greek mythology—each of the plants in the garden tells a tale, or rather has a story that can be found on specially placed signposts or on bookmarks that visitors can take away as a souvenir. 44 Patission Str., +302132144800 For the most updated information, please visit: www.namuseum.gr

Kapodistriakon, Kostis Palamas Building

Τhe neoclassical Kostis Palamas, erected in 1857, serves and operates primarily as a cultural centre, hosting cultural events, conjectural exhibitions, lectures addressed to small audiences, round tables, book presentations, symposiums and more. Kapodistriakon is a restaurant in the building, popular amongst Athens University students, for anything from a romantic date to a business meeting—and when you’re surrounded by the exquisite marble table and flowers beds all around, you feel like you’re a million miles away from the bustling city centre. 48 Akadimias Str., Athina, +302103688711 For the most updated information, visit: en.uoa.gr

SUMMER 2022_ 59

€_up to 15 €€_15-25 €€€_25-35 €€€€_35+

TASTE VOICE

From small family-run “tavernas” serving Greek meze and authentic grill houses with old money aesthetic scattered around the Athenian neighborhoods, to all day coffee spots and eateries, and from bistros and cocktail bars featuring creatively reinvented Greek staples, to rooftop bar-restaurants with a view to an instragram-feed sun plunging into the horizon and Michelin star winning fine-diners on the terraces of high-end Athenian hotels looking at a staggering, lit up Acropolis, Athens has generated a vibrant dine-out urban culture that proudly demonstrates the country’s lavish seasonal produce, its abundance of fundamental superfood ingredients and its rich heritage handed down from generation to generation. Exploring the diverse culinary universe of Athens is an exciting palate challenge for foodies, worth taken up. By NENELA GEORGELE, KATERINA VNATSIOU

60 _ SUMMER 2022

©luisa brimble/unsplash

When you’re out and about in Athens, upload your favourite moments on instagram using the hashtag #athensvoice #tastevoice and let the world take a glimpse of the Athenian life!

SUMMER 2022_ 61

MICHELIN

Michelin stars for excellence are awarded to selected restaurants and Athens could not miss its share in top quality establishments. Spondi With two Michelin stars, Spondi is considered the absolute best restaurant in Greece. French cuisine by chef Arnaud Bignon, luxurious environment and service which makes you feel like a king. 5 Pirronos Str., Pagrati, +302107564021

Botrini’s Minimal environment in a beautiful old house with a cozy garden, and an excellent menu by famous chef Ectoras Botrini. Good value for money. 24b Vas. Georgiou B Str., Chalandri, +302106857324 Hytra Reach the 6xth floor of the Onassis Cultural Center, and you will find yourself in Hytra, where you can enjoy the great view along with great food. Mainly Greek cuisine. Offers a degustation menu and many choices for different budgets. Syggrou- Fix, 107-109 Syggrou Ave., +302103316767 Varoulko Seaside Lefteris Lazarou is the first

Greek chef to acquire a Michelin star. He is one of the country’s most renewed chefs, with a loyal audience and a unique knowledge of seafood. In Varoulko, modern Greek cuisine meets the international gastronomy in an excellent venue with huge windows and a breathtaking view of the sea which lies in a 2 meters distance. 52 Akti Koumoundourou Str., Mikrolimano, +302105228400

CTC Talented chef Alexandros Tsiotinis sings the praises of Greece’s gastronomic history in a way most intriguing and originally unique. 15, Plateon Str., Athens, +302107228812 PELAGOS A panorama of Luca Piscazzi’s creative mindset on fish-oriented fine dining flawlessly executed with world celebrated French techniques. Four Seasons Astir Hotel: 40, Apollonos Str., Vouliagmeni, +302108901192 The Bib Gourmand (in recognition of skillful cooking in reasonable prices) was awarded to Nolan (31 Voulis str., Syntagma, +302103243545), Oikeio (15 Ploutarchou Str., Kolonaki, +302107259216) Cerdo Negro 1985 (5, Vitonos str., Gazi, 2103470628). GB Rood Garden (1a Vas. Georgiou Str., Syntagma, +302103330000), Cookoovaya (2 Chatzigianni Mexi str., Hilton, +302107235005), Vezene (11 Vrasida str., Hilton, +302107232002), Sense (5 Dionissiou Aeropagitou Str., Akropoli, +302109200240), Aneton (19 Stratigou Lekka Str., Marousi, +302108066700), Athenee (9 Voukourestiou Str., +302103251430), Ergon House (23 Mitropoleos, +302100109090), Okio (33 Nikis Str., Syntagma, +302103311436), Aleria (57 Megalou Alexandrou Str., Metaxourgeio, +302105222633), Alficon (8 Ironda Str., Pagrati, +302169005059).

62 _ SUMMER 2022

Greek Traditional

Extra virgin olive oil, seasonal vegetables, greens and herbs, crispy pies and juicy roasts, fresh fish and seafood are some of the ingredients that have established the Greek cuisine as one of the best in the world. You will find it in tavernas and restaurants throughout the city. The best compliment a Greek traditional chef can hear: “This reminds me of the way my mother used to make this plate when I was little...

Avgo tou Kokora

Pinned on the Athenian map of gastronomy for almost two decades it has rightfully claimed the hearts of authentic taste aficionados, many of whom represent the city’s artistically inspired crowd. Let your senses revel in what Greek traditional cuisine really tastes like. From 1:00 at noon till 1:00 after midnight. Metaxourgeio, 25 Myllerou Str., Metaxourgeio, +302177050103

Dexameni

One of the most historical “kafeneia” of Athens, open from 10:00 till very late, for coffee, meze, Cretan raki and delicious home-made halva with ice-cream. Map I15 Evangelismos, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki, +302107214368 €

ATHENS HAS ITS OWN Matsuhisa Home of the world famous Nobu cuisine, Matsuhisa meets the highest standards for sushi. Highlights: black cod, nice cocktails, fantastic location on the sea front. Astir Palace Hotel, 40 Apollonos Str., Vouliagmeni, +302108960510 €€€€

SUMMER 2022_ 63

3 restaurants which have a shopping section within Have you ever been so excited by some dishes at a Greek Restaurant that you wished you could buy the ingredients and cook the dish at home? Now your wish can come true! Jams and delicious cold meats, cheeses from all over Greece, handmade pasta, nuts, honey, wines and spirits, all of which you can enjoy in the street as a snack, in your hotel, as a lunch or as a memorial when you go back home.

Ta karamanlidika tou Fani

The ideal place to taste tradition “meze” from all over Greece. Their products are excellent, you can dine in and/ or buy some of their products. In the centre of the premises is a glass display with dozens of cold meats, cheeses, sausages and spicy sausages (soujouki), for you to choose from. Omonia, 1 Sokratous & Εvripidou str., +302103254184, Mon-Sat: 12:00-23:00 (sales: 08:00-21:00) New: 119 Ermou Str., Monastiraki, +302103219119

Ergon

One of the most popular and successful chain of restaurants not only in Greece but also in London, Brussels, Miami. Here, the first foodie hotel in Athens. Ιt serves quality food but you can buy Greek products: olive oil, olives, honey, jams, pasta, sauces, syrups, herbs. Tip: Discover "Retire", a perfect terrace with Acropolis view on the last floor. Syntagma, 123 Mitropoleos Str., +302100109090, 12 pm-12 am (store hours 09.00-01.00)

Mezeklikia tis Lachanagoras

In the very heart of the main vegetable market of Athens you are going to experience something truly unique… At “Mezeklikia tis Lachanagoras” you are going to learn what the greek word “mezes” really means. Here, all the dishes are made with greek products, that you can actually buy, since this restaurant is also a delicatessen! Discover greek wines, different kind of cheese and cold cuts, beers, sauces, handmade pasta and many more delicacies. Vegetable Market, Renti, +302104820020

Yoleni’s

With thousands of quality products from small producers from all around the region it’s an ambassador of Greek traditional flavors! The six-story building includes the coffee corner, with rare coffee varieties, pites and sandwiches, the restaurant with great meat options, Greek tavern, an olive oil bar, a cellar with fine Greek wine labels and a room for cooking classes. Syntagma, 9 Solonos Str., Kolonaki, +302122223623 64 _ SUMMER 2022

Economou

Traditional tavern in a former working class neihbourhoud which is now a hip area crowded by young artists. Excellent house wine and high quality Greek cuisine. Closed Sun. 41 Petralona Troon & Kidantidon Str., +302103467555 €

Filippou

This historic restaurant will serve you “mama’s” food in very good prices. Closed Sat evening and Sun (also 8-23/8). Evangelismos, 19 Xenokratous Str., Kolonaki, +302107216390 €€

O Kalos Lykos

The «big bad wolf» came to life in 2015 in a wonderful street corner of Psyrri, only this time as the «good fellow» with a vibrant, happy and relaxing disposition. Enjoy awesome appetizers before reaching for the most inspiring dishes of fresh pork pan-fry, juicy steaks, crispy cheese croquettes or irresistibly spicy meatballs complemented with ice cold beers, raki or tsipouro. 2, Orygou, 10 Navarhou Apostoli Str., Psyrri, 6974320286, Fb: okalosolykos1

Klimataria

One of the oldest tavernas in Athens, a culinary landmark in the city center and in close distance to the central market place, Klimataria is hosted in a very old little house with an inner yard adorned with vast greenery and flowers and a lovely decoration. You’ll enjoy delicious greek traditional flavours, while the long menu includes all the classic and home-cooked style recipes: a great variety of fresh salads, soups, pies, legumes, lamb fricassee and its “signature” dish, pot-roasted lamb with potatoes. Pretty much a local's restaurant with a wonderful, homey ambiance, some evenings accompanied by the live tunes of Greek bouzouki. Good price list, friendly service. 2 Theatrou sq, +302103216629

SUMMER 2022_ 65

Green Park

The long-awaited return of the historic «family entertainment» center in one of the biggest city parks, gives the Athenian food scene a fascinating boost. After being closed for many years and with a staggering restoration undertake that fully respected the rare architectural elements of its heritage structure, the landmarked complex is given a second life in the versatile dining world of the capital. The vast greenery of the park, the trees and the flowers and the vintage fountain create a serene, most refreshing and relaxing ambience for guests to enjoy a morning coffee, early day delicacies or a cool drink during sun down, while an array of exquisite Greek-oriented dishes reinvent its long-standing reputation through generations and generations of Athenians. Live music almost every night. Pedion tou Areos park, 22 Mavromateon Str., +302108832391

Kyveli

Keeping its retro “profile” that blends perfectly with the all so retro neighborhood, Kyvelli is popular among the locals. Happy interior adorned with old photographs and advertising posters of past decades. The menu, a refreshing culinary experience, includes salads, appetizers and delicious “meze”. Monday closed. 15 Eptanisou Str., Kypseli, +302108219406

To Kaplani

Owner Manolis Romanakis and chef Dimitris Skafidas design dishes that reveal centuries of Cretan culinary heritage, using top quality raw materials directly from the island! Try horta tsigariasta (wild greens cooked in olive oil) with fresh tomatoes, onions and lemon or the «gamopilafo» (a staple

of Cretan cuisine, traditionally served at weddings!). The pie of Sfakia with thyme honey and cinnamon ice cream, at the end, is a must. 47, Efroniou Str., near Caravel Hotel, +302107211161, +302107211191, www.tokaplani.gr, Fb: tokaplani, insta: tokaplani

To Scholarchio tis Kypselis

Right on the bustling square of Agios Georgios, the “delicious” smells coming from the corner of Eptanissou street whet your appetite. The menu reveals the versatile temperament of traditional Greek food with an intriguing variety of seafood, meat and stews, plus beers and local spirits. 18 Eptanissou Str., Kypseli, +302108815820, FB: To Scholarchio tis Kypselis, Insta: to_scholarchio_tis_ kypselis

Open-air market on Kallidromiou street The open-air market of Kallidromiou street is the perfect place to connect with the locals and get a worth remembering «taste» of Greek authentic. For a few hours every Saturday (starting at dawn and until 4 in the afternoon) the street is transformed with an assembly of counters and benches overwhelming of the fresh and low-cost seasonal produce of the country: veggies, eggs, cheese varieties, wines, fishes and seafood treasures. The bizarre hub is «orchestrated» by the loud voices of sellers, producers and vendors yelling out their «finest of quality». You should also expect some live tunes filling the air as it is accustomed for music bands with traditional instruments scattered along the way to play live music. Cold beers are served soon after… 66 _ SUMMER 2022

Vlassis

Plain, simple space with an “intellectual” touch, but its passion for original Greek food remains intact. Splendid cooked dishes, even better grilled & fried seafood. Closed Sun (also 8-23/8). Megaro, 15 Meandrou Str., Ilissia, +302107256335 €€

Greek Creative

Greeks love their traditional homemade cuisine and renowned Greek chefs love to experiment with its recipes. What they come up with is some of the country’s most representative dishes served up “with a twist”. The finest restaurants of the Greek creative cuisine are...

Aleria

Α yard that resembles the french countryside. Two level building, elegant decoration, one of the best menus in Greek creative cuisine, chef Gikas Xenakis. You can also relax and have a drink. Closed Sun. Metaxourgio, 57 Meg. Alexandrou Str., +302105222633 €€€

Cookoovaya

Five excellent chefs (N. Karathanos, P. Koskinas, V. Liakos, S. Liakos, K. Zournatzis) have taken over the cuisine of this restaurant, making the whole city curious to try their dishes. Closed 10-17/8. Megaro, 2a Xatzigianni Mexi Str., Ilissia, +302107235005 €€€

Delta

Within the complex of Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, a fine dining restaurant of elegant aesthetics and culinary supremacy gives sustainability a whole new meaning. The menu, a gastronomic destination that fits its values of excellence, features conceptual cuisine flavors inspired by Greek tradition with a cosmopolitan twist, while providing for all tastes – protein, vegetarian and vegan. Its wine «cellar» arrays 685 labels of Greek and international vineries. The price

• • • •

art craft fashion jewellery

Concept Store

Porto Heli

Porto Heli Beach, 2754053595 e-mail: zsfyri@gmail.com Fb: στο δεντρο not another tavern insta: stodentro SUMMER 2022_ 67

The Line Athens

One of the newest additions to the city’s culinary scene gives you a homely feeling that «tastes» superb. You’ll try fruit wine from an elegant array of labels, traditionally made home bread, comfort food, small brewery beers and masterfully blended cocktail drinks. The Industrial design with the long bar, an Locali indoors patio and a zero waste What its name suggests philosophy, stimulate the palette even is that you become a local further.37 Agathodemonos Str., when hanging out in places you Kato Petralona, feel at home. Here you are, relaxed +302103421311 in its beautiful patio of cultural contrasts, the imposing figures of the Caryatids on the wall, feasting your senses with imaginative flavors and signature cocktails, featuring a mix list starts at about 110 euros. of Greek spirits. Open in the Mondays closed. 364 Syggrou morning. Thisseio, Av., Kallithea, +302168091288 44 Sarri Str., Psyrri, +302103250673

Fita

Though it made its debut a few months ago in an off Broadway neighborhood of central Athens, it is already a culinary hangout with a devoted young crowd. The menu features alternative flavors that reflect the unwavering philosophy of its chefs-owners towards an inspiring experimentation with regional fresh products and ingredients. Chill out atmosphere, beautiful faces, among which some of the city’s most celebrated personalities. Good prices. 1 Dourm & 6-8 Kassamouli Str., Neos Kosmos, +302114148624

Soil

The old, urban mansion was given a tasteful refurbishment that complements the chef’s passion of infusing fine dining with regional flavors. The charismatic and awardwinning Tassos Mantis creates a truly traceable culinary experience with a farm-totable seasonal menu featuring delectable ingredients that come directly from his own farm. The beautiful yard with the orange trees pays homage to the inspiring philosophy. A 14 course degustation menu costs 85 euros. Sundays closed. 5, Ferekidou Str., Pagkrati, +302107513505

To Mavro Provato (Black Sheep)

One the city’s most loved restaurants, it fills quickly daily with Athenian crowds, actresses, screenwriters, artists and celebrities. Very 68 _ SUMMER 2022

good modern Greek cuisine, emphasis is placed on quality ingredients, traditional dishes with a modern touch, a relaxed and intimate atmosphere. Tables inside and outside on the pavement, make sure to book. Daily from noon, Sunday serving only midday. Evangelismos, 33 Arrianou Str., Pagrati, +302107223466 €€

Vasilainas

This historic 100-year-old restaurant has catered for an all-star list of visitors who have passed through Greece – from Sofia Loren to Winston Churchill. Now in a new location, behind the emblematic Hilton, in a property that has been magnificently designed by the famous architects A. Kourkoulas - M. Kokkinou. Cuisine Greek, creative and unforgettable gastronomic experience, degustation menu and a la carte, wine cellar with the best of Greek and international vineyards. Reduced rates at noon. Evangelismos, 3 Vrassida Str., (behind the Hilton Hotel), +302107210501 €€€

Mediterranean It

The “it” place to have a lunch break, the absolute meeting point for the locals. Combines the vibe of a modern restaurant with the casualness of a take away. Healthy and

fresh food, natural juices, salads, soups, an alternative option for fast food. Open all day. Panepistimio, 29 Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302103631827, +302103635773 €€

Lyra

The restaurant is set in a beautiful neo-classical building in the «neighborhood of gods», surrounded by the unique appeal of the city’s past. In an elegant cascading table arrangement in the picturesque alley expect a display of contemporary Greek cuisine dishes based on premium quality ingredients. Live music and intriguing cocktail options lift the experience even higher. 12, Lysiou Str., Plaka, +302103229727

Vezene

One of the best restaurants in the city, located behind Hilton Hotel. It is always packed with afficionados of nouvelle cuisine. Enjoy the delicacies from Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. Closed Sun. Evangelismos, 11 Vrassida Str., Hilton, +302107232002 €€€

Athens from Above GB Roof Garden

Deluxe art deco interior and impeccable service. An excellent choice after shopping in what can only be branded as Athens’ most chic and historical brasserie. You’ll be sitting next to powerful businessmen, and journalists in search of their next story. Delectable mediterranean cuisine, amazing view. Syntagma, Grande Bretagne Hotel, Syntagma Sq., +302103330000 €€€€

Hytra

One of the most celebrated restaurants of the city and privileged with an astonishing view of Athens, especially when night falls. 107-109 Syggrou Av., Neos Kosmos, +302103316767

SUMMER 2022_ 69

Avgotaraho (Grey Mullet Bottarga) By Isabelle Clayton

The Greek meat-lover’s trifecta! But are these meals truly different from one another? Foreign travelers may be surprised to hear that there are many factors, such as cooking process and type of meat, that set them apart. It is possible for you to like Kebab, but not Souvlaki; Souvlaki, but not Gyro. For this reason, we present to you a run down on these three meat dishes, both to satisfy your carnivorous cravings, and to open up a whole new world for you within Athenian cuisine.

Souvlaki

A popular and inexpensive street food in Athens, Souvlaki denotes grilled chunks of meat on a skewer. Traditionally, is made with pork, however, it is becoming more and more common to find chicken or lamb Souvlaki. Souvlaki can also connote a type of sandwich, with skewered meat, tomatoes, onions, french fries, and sauce wrapped tightly within pita.

Kebab

Although traditionally a Turkish dish, ordering a Kebab in Athens will not get you the doner kebab you might be expecting. In Athens, Kebabs are made by forming spicy minced meat, usually lamb, but also chicken, pork, or beef, around a skewer, and grilling it. Kebabs are usually served with pita and a type of yogurt-based dipping sauce.

Gyro

The meat used for Gyros, usually lamb, is cut into thin pieces and layered around a large, vertical skewer. It is cooked incrementally as the skewer turns around a source of heat. When you order a Gyro, an assortment of crispy and juicy meat is cut from the outer edges of the large skewered mass, and placed within pita along with salad, tomatoes, tzatziki, and sometimes, french fries. 70 _ SUMMER 2022

A delicacy of cured Grey Mullet Roe. Natural without preservatives, with high nutritional value and a pleasant, long-lasting aftertaste. It can be consumed in small slices as an appetizer, with freshly baked bread or with pasta.

La Suite Lounge

Eating by the Vertigo Pool is cool! Luxurious decoration, original Greek tastes. Nice view to the city and pleasant soundscape. BBQ on Mondays. Evangelismos, Hotel St. George Lycabettus, 2 Kleomenous Str., Dexameni, +302107416000 €€€

Mavili Beach

Seven stories above ground, high up on the terrace of Hotel Alexandros in the heart of the vibrant Mavili square, an almost cinematic set unfolds; a beautiful “sandy beach”, literally, you can drop your towel on, and a traditional tavern with the white washed Cycladic aura and authentic “meze”. Megaro Moussikis, 8 Timoleontos Vassou Str., Plateia Mavili, +302106430464

Nyx

Japanese fusion with a 360o view of the city’s miraculous history and urban culture. Located on the top floor of the Academias Hotel Athens, Nyx features top notch Japanese influenced flavors, masterfully combined with signature cocktails. Nyx, Academias Hotel, 38, Academias & Omirou Str., Athens, +302103670000

The Zillers

This year everybody is talking about The Zillers’ terrace. Lovely setting, outstanding view of the Acropolis, green scenery decoration. Open all day for coffee or drinks, snacks, special dishes and cocktails. Syntagma, 54 Mitropoleos Str., Syntagma, +302103222277 €€€

Fish Dourabeis

An all-time classic and rightly famous. Fish cuisine of the highest standards. Akti Protopsalti 27, Piraeus, +302104122092 €€€

Istioploikos

A landmark of Mikrolimano overlooking the Saronic Gulf. In the evening it feels like you are at a beach bar. Modern, Mediterranean cuisine. The café looks like a boat deck. Akti Mikrolimano, Piraeus, +302104134084 -184, +306944915220 €€€

Jimmy and the Fish

It stands out among the tourist tavernas of Mikrolimano. Meeting point for a fish lunch by the yachts and fishing boats. 46 Akti Koumoundourou Str., Mikrolimano, +302104124417 €€€

Thalassinos

Athenians who love fish frequent this cozy place, which serves big or smaller fish in both creative and traditional way s in its lovely yard. Moschato, 2 Irakleos & Lisikratous Str., Moschato, +302109404518 €€

AMERICAN WAY T.G.I. Friday’s

Give some “flavour” to your evenings with appetizers and cocktails at happy hour prices. At TGI Friday’s you will find a variety of refreshing signature cocktails and straight drinks mixed by the greatest bartenders in the world. Kifissia: 35 Kolokotroni Str., +302106233947-8/ Kolonaki Syntagma: 2 Neofytou Vamva str., +302107227721/

SUMMER 2022_ 71

Ambelokipi Ambelokipi: Kifissias & Alexandras, +302106475417-8/ Glyfada: 43 Lazaraki str., +302108982608-9/ Palio Faliro: Marina Flisvou, Pier One, +302109853281/ Agios Dimitrios The Athens Metro Mall: 276 Vouliagmenis Av., +302109717223/ Asteras Vouliagmenis: 40 Apollonos Str., +302108901625 €€

Bar Restaurants Balthazar

One of the most beautiful buildings in Athens, it attracts politicians, businessmen, artists, who enjoy their early meals & drinks. Mediterranean cuisine by top chef Christoforos Peskias and a beautiful garden. Ambelokipi, 27 Tsoxa & Vournazou Str., +3022106441215 €€€€

Eden’s Garden

Located in one of the most vivid neighborhoods of Athens, this club-restaurant is the hidden paradise of the city. You will enter an amazing garden, where you can taste fusion cuisine, drink an exceptional cocktail or even try hookah! 48 Triptolemou Str., Gazi, 6942252950

Efimerida ATH

The ambience, the interior, the music and the out-of-the ordinary flavors switch your mornings up a lot. In the morning for a lovely coffee and a selection of “voluptuous” breakfast and brunch dishes and later in the day for a lunch break, dinner, some drinks and cocktails listening to great music that gets louder as the

When you’re out and about in Athens, upload your favourite moments on instagram using the hashtag #athensvoice #tastevoice and let the world take a glimpse of the Athenian life!

72 _ SUMMER 2022

night falls. Panepistimio, 6 Sina & Vissarionos Str., Panepistimio, +302103648077

ALL DAY Athineon Politeia

Indulge in a rich breakfast or the exquisite flavors of authentic Greek and Mediterranean cuisine, complemented by a selective variety of wines and signature cocktails. Your self-discipline over a delicious array of homemade desserts definitely poses an extra challenge. 1, Akamantos & 33, Apostolou Pavlou Str., Thissio, +302103413795, Fb: athinaionpoliteia, Insta: athinaion_politeia

F Bar

Just a stone’s throw away from the Acropolis, F Bar spreads its scenic vibes to a cool crowd of all ages flocking in awed by the fascinating volume of the majestic monument. Superb coffee blends, refreshing beverages, great cocktail drinks, premium spirits and a selective variety of wine labels. 29 Heraklidon Str., Thissio, +302130116173, Fb: rockbarathens, Insta: @Φ BAR

Iguazu

A panorama of latin-american flavors devised by the charismatic chef Yiannis Parrikos. Soak in the aromas of coffee in the morning complemented with exquisite brunch dishes and as the day pushes forward, sensations and tastes mingle in a menu most inspiring. 16 Laodikias & 1 Nimfeou Str., Athens +302107775225, iguazu.gr, Fb: iguazu.athens, Insta: @iguazu.athens

Nice N Easy

Displaying an elegant chic atmosphere, it has become the hottest meeting point for those strolling around the lively central streets of Kolonaki. The menu features an abundant selection of organic flavors, yummy simple delights,

as well as original day dishes of legumes, pasta or meat, burgers and must-try bagels with salmon. 60 Omirou & Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302103617201

Shakespeare in Love

The history of this 1897 stone building at Piraeus got swept away by love with the art of fine Mediterranean cuisine making. Enjoy exceptional coffee, freshly made juices and brunch in the morning and indulge in the Mediterranean breeze with ravioli with rooster and xinomyzithra cheese or grilled salmon with seasonal veggies in the evening. Over 25 labels of excellent wine and uniquely made cocktail. 3 Agiou Spyridonos Str., Piraeus, 2104131999, S.i.L Shakespeare in Love, @S.i.L Shakespeare in Love

French Cuisine L’ Abreuvoir

All time classic French cuisine, elegant and stylish. Enjoy the food in its beautiful garden – along side politicians and VIPs. Evangelismos, 51 Xenokratous Str., Kolonaki, +302107229106 €€€€

VeriTable

An aura of elegance surrounds this authentic bistronomie that honors the philosophy of the exquisite French gastronomic tradition. Chef-patron Alain Parodi and his wife Christine will spoil you with lip smacking dishes, French cheeses and cold cuts paired with excellent French wines - on the upper floor rests a collection of 2000 fine wine labels from France mostly, but also from Greece, Italy and Roumania. You’ll find it open on Saturday noons. Closed on Sundays. 8 A. Sikelianou Str., Neo Psychiko, +302111829109

Italian Aglio Oglio e peperoncino

Veiled under the imposing

SUMMER 2022_ 73

Koulouria Delight

Incredibly crunchy on the outside with an amazingly soft and slightly chewy centre. Koulouria are delicious Greek bread rings covered with toasted sesame seeds. It is the most popular street food one can find in Greece. And with good reason! When walking the streets of Athens you can’t miss the street vendors selling these popular sesame bread rings. These famous Greek Koulouria are probably the most popular breakfast for Greeks, along with a cup of coffee. You will love them with feta cheese or Graviera and Kalamata olives as a filling snack or cutting them in half crosswise, spreading with butter, honey or jam for breakfast. Simply delicious!

volume of the sacred Acropolis rock this beautiful place of minimal chic aesthetics fuses its menu with pure Italian quintessence. Choose among an intriguing variety of Italian antipasti, colorful salads and fresh handmade pasta prepared masterfully in its kitchen and topped with traditional Italian sauces; not to mention the delightful desserts. Closed on Mondays, only at noon on Sundays. Acropolis, 13 Porinou str., Acropolis, +302109211801

Cupola

Tastes from Italy with the best Italian chef Stefano Rossi, you will be amazed by his delicious carbonara. Also try authentic Italian pizza! On the list you will find a wide variety of Greek and Italian wines. Taste delicious cocktails from the most famous bartenders in the city. Next to Panathenaic Stadium, tables outside. Open from Tue to Sat 19.00-00.30. On Sun from 13.00-19.00, 74 _ SUMMER 2022

13 Ephorionos Str., Pagrati, +302114117444 €€

Frankie

Borrowing the name from Frank Sinatra, Frankie stands out on one of the busiest streets of central Athens. Its menu brings the Italian finesse on a plate, with authentic Italian dishes created with regional products that emphasize its farm to table philosophy. Beautiful interior with vintage aesthetics and an open kitchen. Open daily from the morning hours for coffee, brunch or Italian snacks. Also an excellent list of Greek and Italian wine. 42 Skoufa Str., Kolonaki, +302103647052 €€

Pasteria (La)

Twelve restaurants all over the city. With a rich wine list and a tempting menu from all over Italy. Maroussi The Mall Athens: +302106198230, Kolonaki +30210 3632032/ Glyfada: +302108945085/ Kifissia: +302108085607/ Nea Smyrni: +302109319146/ Paleo Faliro: +302109858880/ Ambelokipi:+302106401480/ Agia Paraskevi: +302106019975/ Chalandri: +302106854210/ Kato Patissia: +302102236295 €€

Street Food Everest

There’s one on every corner. A dazzling array of ingredients to choose from and make your own dream sandwich. The same applies for pies, salads, pastry, coffees, beverages. Those in the city’s centre are usually open 24 hours. €

Feyrouz

Mama’s food: delicious soups and excellent homemade lahmacun. Monastiraki, 23 Karori & Eolou str., Monastiraki, +302130318060 €

Hoocut

Our national street food, the “souvlaki”, redesigned by highly talented, Michelin starred Greek chefs (owners

of some of the most popular high-end cuisines in Athens). Simply delicious, definitely traditional, altogether an epicurean delight. Monastiraki, 9 Plateia Eirinis, Central Athens, +302103240026

Mailo’s The Pasta Project

A rare blend of fresh pasta with the street food culture created right in front of you. Mailo’s open kitchen cooks daily three different kinds of pasta using only organic semolina and water. Choose your kind and move on with adding one of the ten different handmade, signature sauces - the “Truffle Mushrooms” with wild mushrooms and truffle oil is divine. 11 Athinaidos St., Agias Eirinis Square, mailos.gr, Fb: Mailo’s – The Pasta Project, Insta: @mailos_pasta

Microu Lee

Generous portions and very reasonable prices for Chinese food (the most expensive dish costs €4,90), the best comfort noodles in the world! Note this summer highlights: noodles with chicken and curry, won ton shrimps, fried rice with shrimps, beef soup, sweet potato salad and finally cheesecake with tofu. Omonia, 14 Stournari Str., Exarchia, +302103800672 €

Thess Bao

Fine dining inside a (bao) bun. Handmade fluffy buns filled with creative stuffing such as the marinated pork in honey and beer roasted for four hours in the oven before being pulled apart and crammed into the bun along with tomato, crispy onions and a cream of greek yogurt and celery. The menu continues with strikingly unexpected combinations. 30-32 Perikleous Str., Syntagma, +302103214717/ Thessaloniki: 3 Kalapothaki, 2310235225, 11 Lori Margariti, 2310235226, thessbao.gr, Fb: Thessbao, Insta: @thessbao

SUMMER 2022_ 75

Getting wine drunk on vacation without a care in the world is one of summer’s greatest pleasures and Greek culture might be the one to thank for such a fabulous tradition. It’s true. Greeks invented the so-called “symposia” (literally drinking parties with a couple of orgies involved) to honor Dionysus, the God of wine and mischief, hence Greece being considered one of the world’s oldest wine-producing regions, making its own wine for the past 6,500 years. Ever since the tourism boom in the country during the 1960s, a white wine called “retsina” became almost synonymous to Greek wine and Greece in general, due to its strong resin aroma . But there is far more than that for wine lovers. In recent years the wine industry in Greece has opened up to younger new participants. Charming wine bars are springing up everywhere, together with a generation of new winemakers, educated in France and the US, taking charge of existing wineries, introducing new methods and reintroducing old forgotten varieties. For many years now, top international varieties have been cultivated with great success. Top sommeliers, wine writers and traders have put Greece firmly on the global “wine map”.

3 wine trends in Greece Like the rest of the world, in Greece as well there is a selective tendency for consumers when it comes to wine as they look for “special” ones which will offer a unique experience in the form of a bottle. Here are some of the Greek labels on the rise: Liatiko Amphorea (Douloufakis), Rhobola (Melissinos), Rhoditis (Tetramythos), Mystirio (Karamolegos), Orange Wine (Anatolikos), Orgion (Sklavou) Xinomavro Rosé (Oenos Nature).

By Yiannis Dimopoulos

Orange wines are also becoming more popular among the aspired wine consumers. To make orange wine you have to combine the ingredients of white wines and the process of reds. This means that this particular kind is made with white grapes varieties that ferment with their skin and seeds still on. The taste however has nothing to do with the regular white wines or the reds. It is unique. Sour and somewhat dry, fruity and strong. Some of the most promising Greek labels are: ΜΕΤΑ 2011, Pieria Eratini (Pieria Malagouzia), Mithymneon Portokali - Yiannis Lambrou (Lesbos Hydiriotiko), Tatsis Rhoditis (Goumenissa).

76 _ SUMMER 2022

Tides have also turned for some rare Greek varieties, some of which we may have never heard before and some, lost in time and forgotten, have “flourished” again due to the efforts of devoted Greek winemakers. As such, it is worth looking for: Villana, Vidiano, Limniona, Liatiko, Kydonitsa, Plito, Mavrotragano, Monemvasia, Negoska. Some of the best producers and their top wines are listed below. A bottle of good white wine in the liqueur stores costs between €15-25, and a bottle of red €20-40.

SUMMER 2022_ 77

Wine resto By the Glass This hot spot for wine lovers offers one of the most updated and exciting wine lists in the city, in a cozy beautiful atrium. You may choose from 250 different wine labels including Greek and international varieties. More than 50 of them are served by the glass. They also serve coffee, spirits and food. From early in the morning till late at night. Syntagma, 3 G. Souri & Philellinon Str., +302103232560 €€ Heteroclito Wines from

Greek producers, good prices and tasty side-dishes with cheese and cold cuts. Every day from 18:00 till late. Syntagma, 2 Fokionos & Petraki Str., +302103239406 €

Materia Prima This

authentic bar is always filled with happy faces appreciating a glass of good wine. The extensive wine list includes labels from celebrated Greek wineries as well as an excellent sample from wine producing regions around the world. If you fancy beer or spirits more, you’ll find the list updated for you too, on a weekly basis. Open from 17:00 in the afternoon. Mondays closed. 68 Falirou Str., Koukaki, +302109245935

Oinoscent This is one of the

best places in the Historic Centre of Athens that offers a wide variety of fine wines from all over the world, from over a decade. Every single one of them is carefully selected by the hands of the two-time winner of Best Sommelier of Greece, Aris Sklavenitis. Syntagma, 45-47 Voulis Str., Athens, +302103229374

Warehouse Assemblage Just a few

minutes from Monastiraki Square, this is one of the newest Athenian wine spots where you can taste a variety of Greek and International wines and also buy them. All of them pairing with the crafted dishes on their menu. Syntagma, 8 Mitropoleos Square, Athens, +302103253503

78 _ SUMMER 2022

White varieties Assyrtico: The finest white grape from the Island of Santorini, and possibly the cheapest top white wine in the world. Mineral with high acidity, ages well. Try to distinguish an aged assyrtiko to a Chablis Grand Cru. Malagousia: Aromatic, with a scent of ripe peaches, apricots and green pepper. Moschofilero: A sweet, aromatic grape, the Greek Gewurztraminer! Red varieties Agiorgitico: Rich, deeply coloured, ages well. Xinomavro: Greece’s answer to Barolo, needs time to develop.

Some of the top producers Aivalis, Alpha Estate, Antonopoulos, Arghyros, Biblia Chora, Boutaris, Driopi, Douloufakis, Gaia, Gerovassiliou, Hatzidakis, Hatzimichalis, Katogi Strofilia, Katsaros, Kir-Yanni, Manousakis, Mercouri, Papaioannou, Pavlidis, Samos, Sigalas, Skouras, Sklavos, Thimiopoulos, Tselepos.

Red wines Aivalis: Monopati Alpha Estate: Xinomavro Unfiltered, Alpha 1 Antonopoulos: Nea Dris Avantis: Collection Syrah Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Classic Grand Reserve, 1879 Driopi: Agiorgitico Gaia: Agiorgitico Gerovassiliou: Avaton, Syrah Karydas: Xinomavro Katogi Strofilia: Ktima Averof Kir-Yanni: Diaporos, Blue Fox Manousakis: Syrah Mercouri: Refosco Papaioannou: Mikroklima, Terroir Sigalas: Mavrotragano Skouras: Solera aged Labyrinth, Megas Oinos Thimiopoulos: New age Xinomavro Tselepos: Kokkinomylos

My favourite

Sweet wines Vinsanto: Sun dried grapes from Santorini. These wines have the complexity of olorosos and Tokajs. Top producers: Argiros and Sigalas. Mavrodaphne: Sweet fortified wines. Best old like Banyls. Muscat: Sweet wines from Samos island.

White wines Alpha Estate: Sauvignon Blanc Antonopoulos: Chardonnay Anax Argyros: Vareli Assyrtico, Ktima Biblia Chora: Ovilos Boutaris: Kalisti Reserve Gaia: Τhalassitis, Wild ferment Assyrtico Gerovassiliou: Chardonnay, Malagousia Hatzidakis: Nihteri, Louros Katsaros: Chardonnay Kir-Yanni: Samaropetra Manousakis: Roussanne Mercouri: Malvasia Sigalas: Nihteri, Cavalieros Skouras: Viognier Eclectique Sklavos: Robola

Good and fairly priced Let us recommend to you some good and fairly priced Greek wines that are easy to pair, fine-bodied and naturally refreshing for an all-hours allure. Ktima Alpha: Malagouzia Zafirakis: Paleomilos Skoura: Armira Avantis: White Gaea: Moshofilero Semeli: Yiorti Tselepos: Mantinia Vivlia Chora: White Pavlides: Thema White Kyr-Yiannis: Samaropetra Theodorakakos: Kydonitsa

SUMMER 2022_ 79

Athens is the city of enjoying nightlife. Visitors are always welcome to spend crazy nights out. Especially, in the centre of Athens you can find many hot spots with a view or unique bars with special cocktails or clubs for partying till the sun comes up. Come on, come and join us! By Nenela georgele, Katerina vnatsiou

Island

ous The most fam modern A . ns he At “island” in ptures ca at th nt club-restaura Frozen s. de cla e Cy the spirit of th rannean cuisine, ite cocktails, Med dance parties, lounge music, brities. lots of cele o Road, Athens-Souni km th 27 , Varkiza 563-4 +302109653

80 _ SUMMER 2022

Greek Bar dictionary

PLAKA - MONASTIRAKI THISSIO - PETRALONA

Shot sfinaki Low quality alcohol beverage bomba Straight drink sketo Cheers ya mas! Free drink (usually offered by the barman or another customer) kerasma

Tiki Athens Tiki is the first exotica bar

DOWNTOWN Baba au Rum Also among Worlds’ Best

Bars, this is the place to try the finest rums you can find in Athens and choose from a huge selection (competing Europe’s largest.) You'll be surprised how well rum goes with chocolate. 6 Klitiou Str., Athens, +302117109140

The Bank Job Located only 5 to

10 minutes walk from Monastiraki and Syntagma, Kolokotroni street is the city's hot spot and Bank Job is one of its most popular cocktail bars thanks to its peculiar cocktail list. This year, you can discover Athens and its world famous museums via the inspired recipes of Bank Job’s 14 new cocktails. 13 Kolokotroni Str., Athens, fb: thebankjobathens

The Bar in Front of the Bar

A youthful, vibrant street bar that switches up its menu daily while everything there, is made from scratch, from cordials to jams. Numerous led mottos invite passers- by to drink with the stuff. 1 Petraki Str., Athens, +306980635896

The Clumsies One of the most popular

downtown bars in Athens, ranked no4 on the World’s Best Bars. Nikos Bakoulis and Vasilis Kyritsis founders and also behind the bar, serving cocktails since 2014, are always a step ahead of the international trends. 30 Praxitelous Str., Athens, +302103232682

GAZI - VOTANIKOS KERAMEIKOS Bios A multi lever building full of arts,

drinks and music. It is highly recommended for party’s. It hosts very often famous djs, live performances, art and new-media exhibitions. Also you can enjoy your drink at the roof garden. Kerameikos, 84 Pireos Str., Kerameikos, +302103425335

in athens. Many unique events take place at TIKI. Music includes mixing of new and oldest pieces. Akropoli, 15 Falirou Str., Makrigianni, +302109236908

Upopa Epops Spirits and fresh

ingridients in a talk of the town bar that is a flash back in old Athens. Kerameikos, 7 Alkminis Str., Petralona, +302121055214

Athens Seafront Akrotiri Club Restaurant

Decorated in black and white, with fluorescent notes, echoing mainstream disco and house music. It offers Mediterranean cuisine and attracts a fashionable crowd. B’5 Vassileos Georgiou Av., Agios Kosmas Beach, +302109859148

Other Athenian Nightlife Districts Kypseli

Pismo A new cocktail bar at one of the “hottest” square of Athens. Try exceptional signature cocktails and feel the Athenian summer vibes(9 Agiou Georgiou Sq., Kypseli, +302152151930

Panormou Square (

Panormou) Also known as “The island of Athens”, because of its open-air bars. Wee dram (+302106916509) is an authentic scottish pub, Sensimilia and Santa Botella (+302106981032) are classical choices in the area.

Karitsi Square ( Syntatgma) Once the ultimate hipster hotspot, now struggling to hold its position, nevertheless still an option with quality choices. Probably the best is the Gin Joint, with more than 65 varieties of Gin (+302103218646), Tall’s Toy Bar is a tiny favourite (+302130448864), and Pairi Daeza is the oldest bar on the square (+302103210233). Mavili (

Ambelokipi) Mavili Square will reward you if you are looking for a slightly sophisticated summer hangout. Briki, the place to be after 1:00 a.m. Legendary bar with loyal patrons, always crowded. A hub for the city’s thirty somethings. (6 Dorileou Str., +30210 6452380). Kyrios, very classy decoration, expensive glasses, jazzy music. Also serves food (Dorileou 2, +30210 6400615). Loras, a classic option of the Athenian nightlife. Journalists meeting point, excellent quality of alcohol (7 Soutsou Str.,+302106428473).

Fine Drinking in Athens The Athenian bartending community is celebrating moments of glory, because those who are part of this scene are young with real passion for their job and at the same time they have experience and great knowledge about drinking. Excellent drinks are offered everywhere, while in the narrow streets of the historical center you will find many bars you can taste a truly amazing cocktail. Discover your own spot on your next walk.

Gay Friendly Big Bar

The first gay friendly bar in Athens includes: low prices, very friendly atmosphere, also hosts exhibitions. Kerameikos, 12 Falesias Str., Votanikos, +306946282845

Noiz

Probably the best known club for girls who are looking for girls, also very welcoming to every other sexuality. Kerameikos, 78 Konstantinoupoleos Str., Gazi +302103467850

Shamone

Fun club, theme nights, drag shows, happy ambiance. Kerameikos, 46 Konstantinoupoleos Str., Gazi, +302103450144 SUMMER 2022_ 81

Life’s a

Follow e svoic @athen favourite ur o y d a Uplo stagram ts on in momen the hashtag using nsvoice #athe

82 _ SUMMER 2022

Athens is no Santorini, and yet the city’s clear water beaches are perfect ways to spend warm summer days when island-hopping is not on the agenda. Accessible by tram, bus or car, the Athens coastline has myriad places to swim, tan and relax, away from the hustle and bustle of the city center. By Isabelle Clayton

Free Access Beaches Edem (Paleo Faliro)

Easily accessible by public transportation, Edem is a popular location for long walks on the shore, beach tennis competitions, swimming, and other watersports. For those with children, Edem is also home to a small water park!

Erotospilia

On the weekends, locals spill into Erotospilia to soak up the sun and cool down in its clear blue waters. Pine trees encompass the beach’s sweeping coastline, completing the picturesque image of its shores.

Vouliagmeni

Across from the famed Astir beach, the public beach of Vouliagmeni offers a cozier and cheaper option. With crystal clear waters, rentable daybeds, and a beachside bar, this beach will make the perfect day trip for families and friends alike.

Megalo Kavouri

The shallow waters of Megalo Kavouri are a sought out destination for families with small children. Many cafes, restaurants, and bars surround the beach, and its flat sand is perfect for sunset strolls and sunbathing. For a calmer, less crowded experience, avoid visiting this beach on the weekends.

Mavro Lithari

Upon seeing the clean blue waters and white sandy beach of Mavro Lithari, many are surprised to discover that it

SUMMER 2022_ 83

offers free access to visitors. Note that because this beach is not directly accessible by public transport, it can be more efficient to travel there by car or taxi.

Sounio Beach

In close proximity to the iconic Temple of Poseidon, Sounio Beach offers refreshing waters and unparalleled views of both the temple and the sunset. Get here early, as the free portion of the beach is smaller than the organized portion, and tends to fill up quickly.

Psatha

Swim while admiring stunning views of the Corinthian Gulf, or rent a canoe to experience the totality of Psatha’s landscape. Restaurants and cafés are easily accessible, and usually serve fresh fish!

K.A.P.E. BEACH

Named after the acronym for the nearby centre for renewable energy sources, KAPE Beach is the closest beach on this list to resemble one of a Greek island. Hidden from bird’s eye view, it might even miss you altogether as you drive down the road towards Sounio. This secret spot is absolutely stunning — with a jawdropping view of the Aegean and a seafloor covered with crisp, clear waters that get abruptly deep, you might just forget you’re just less than an hour’s drive away from Athens. You’ll need to walk down a short stairway to the rocks. If you’re not sure where you are, keep your eyes peeled for a small canteen or a few parked cars — they’re good indications that you’re in the right place.

Organized Beaches Astir Beach

Located at the high end of the Athens Riviera, in the chic southern suburb of Vouliagmeni, Astir Beach is the epitome of ultimate luxury. Largely considered by both families and celebrities alike to be the place to be in the summer, the

84 _ SUMMER 2022

beach offers a full range of highquality services, from free WiFi across the beach, to the ability to pre-book sun-loungers, and of course, a wide selection of coffees, ice creams, food and drinks. A little button on your sun-chair allows you to order snacks without even getting up. Other amenities on the beach include lockers, beach towels, changing cabins, medical assistance and a non-smoking exterior area. One can water ski, jet ski or play sand sports — but if the athletic activity doesn’t feel like the way to go, you can also curl up and pamper yourself at Orloff Spa. Astir Beach also holds the Platinum Lounge, with a capacity of 80 persons and capable hosting anything from theme parties to business cocktails, making it a main reference point for summer socializing, be it social or corporate. Unfortunately, all of this comes at a fairly steep price. You’ll need about 50 euros for a set of sun lounges and an umbrella during week days and 80 euros during the weekend. If you're on a budget, the nearby beaches of Vouliagmeni and Kavouri are good alternatives. Also consider prebooking, especially on weekends.

Grand Beach Lagonissi

This beach covers the entire Lagonissi peninsula, and is as spectacular in its aesthetics as it is close to Athens, almost unbelievably so. Ideal for a daylong visit, the beach offers a wide range of amenities from the classic umbrella and beach-chair to a series of different water sports for adults to participate in. Other facilities include a cinema, volley court, beach bar, changing rooms, medical assistance and free Wi-Fi. Visitors can unwind by the Grand Pier jetty-bar while admiring the waterfront view and enjoying the sea breeze, accompanied by soft music, fresh juice and a stunning sunset. Alternatively, you can dip your toes into either the sea or the swimming pool should you feel like cooling down under the sun. After you’re done, you may access a number of dining options like Poseidon Tavern for a casual dining

experience. You’ll need to pay about 40 euros for a set of sun beds and an umbrella on weekdays and 80 euros on weekends. Note that if you bring a car, you will have to pay a parking price.

Vouliagmeni Beach

Accessible via public transportation, Vouliagmeni Beach is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike. The beach is incredibly clean, with volleyball nets, glistening waters and sunbeds perfect for tanning.

Vouliagmeni Lake

One of the more romantic locations on the Athenian coast, Vouliagmeni Lake offers mesmerizing views and warm waters all year round. Take in the beauty of your surroundings in a lavish sunbed, or over a decadent dinner at one of the lake’s intimate restaurants.

Yabanaki

Located in the suburb of Varkiza, Yabanaki Beach is a what a beach would be if a beach was an amusement park. Equipped with a full stack of services, guests can consume a range of options for coffee, refreshments, fast food, ice cream, seafood mezze and ouzo. Inside the beach, you’ll be able to access all the amenities you need to enjoy a full day in the water, from sun-chairs and umbrellas to massages and water sports. With over 20 seaside activities, Yabanaki offers a wide array of water sports from waterskiing and banana boats for adults to windsurf rentals and stand-up paddle-boarding lessons for smaller children. All in all, the sun-beds, pavilions and torches create an electric, exotic atmosphere. The Moana Beach House can host beach parties and other events, fresh fish is served at the Isalos tavern and Holy Spirit is good for a cocktail or two. An entrance fee of 7.50€ per head during the week including an umbrella and sun loungers. On weekends, the entrance fee is 8.50€ but you’ll need to pay an additional 10€ for an umbrella and a set of sunbeds. Entrance after 7:00 p.m. is always free.

Nude Beaches Limanakia

A rocky mass overlooking the ocean, Limanakia is a popular destination for both nude sunbathers and members of the LGBTQIA+ community. It is accessible by foot from Vouliagmeni.

Legrena

Close to the Temple of Poseidon, Legrena is home to a long expanse of unorganized coast. While the beaches can get busy over the weekends, Legrena is almost empty most weekdays. Locals like to gaze out at the sea over drinks at nearby restaurants, and naturists enjoy tanning out in nude at the pebbly KAPE beach, a section of Legrena.

Ramnounta

To the east of Marathon, the beach at Ramnounta is an ancient site, surrounded by excavation projects (which are fenced off to the public). The remote beauty of its pebble beaches and turquoise waters offer the perfect backdrop for relaxation. Ramnounta is definitely difficult to find, but is a favorite spot for couples and naturists in Athens. SUMMER 2022_ 85

Spectacular sunsets, cobblestone streets, chrystilline shores, romantic restaurants and traditional tavernas, just a short ferry ride. By Isabelle Clayton

Agkistri

If you’re looking for a quieter, more peaceful destination, look no further than Agkistri. With its stunning beaches and rich natural environment, Aegina’s neighbor island is the perfect place for you. Just an hour and a half ferry ride from Piraeus port and with relatively low-ticket prices, it is one of the best vacation spots to visit. If you are an avid fan of hiking, camping, and generally the outdoors, you’ll be delighted to know that there are multiple hiking trails riddled across the island, as well as a multitude of camping sites. If you’re more of a beach person, most of the islands’ beaches are easily accessible on foot, like Skala beach, located next to the port.

86 _ SUMMER 2022

Chalkida

Blends, in the most perfect way, its mountainous landscapes with its beautiful waters. Only a short drive away from Athens, it is perfect for a quick getaway during your stay in Greece. Its breathtaking natural environment combined with its relaxed atmosphere makes it the ideal place to escape to. The straits of Evripos are perfect for a swim and then a quick bite at Asteria Plage, offering a wide range of dishes, from brunch to shrimp risottos. Its beautiful waters and scenic views make it a perfect day-trip location.

endless beaches, it is the perfect place to be. There’s a beach for everyone’s taste, from organized beaches, full of sun beds, umbrellas and beach bars, to natural beaches, where all you need is your beach towel. Especially well-known is Schinia beach, with its golden sand and bright blue waters, surrounded by a forest. For sports lovers, Moraitis beach is perfect for water sports, like water-ski and wake board. After a visit to the beach, countless taverns and restaurants are scattered across the coastline, offering fresh dishes.

Marathonas

Póros

The ideal destination for a seaside trip, just a 45 minute drive from Athens, with beautiful forests and

Póros, with its cobblestone streets, terracotta roofs, and yacht-laden ports, looks fit for a postcard.

Aegina

In the warmer months of July and August, the hour-long ferry ride to Aegina attracts both Athenians and tourists to the island’s crystalline shores. Small villages line the coasts of Aegina, their quaint beach clubs and tavernas accentuating the more traditional, intimate mood of the island. Those interested in sightseeing will enjoy Aegina’s incredible trove of ancient temples, monasteries, and museums; those sweating beneath the Mediterranean sun will find cool respite swimming in Aegina’s turquoise waters, or sipping on cocktails in umbrella-covered daybeds, as they look out over the motionless sea. Whether you’re here for a day, or two, or three, make sure to try a pistachio during your stay. Soft and sweet, Aeginian pistachios are like none other.

From the island’s central port, take a water taxi to Askéli Beach for a day full of swimming and water sports, or, plan a romantic getaway to Love Beach’s serenely pebbled shores. If you can’t decide whether to go swimming or sightseeing, visit Russian Bay Beach, where ruins of a Russian naval base during the Greek Revolution backdrop the beach’s white sand and verdant trees. In the evenings, silverware clatters as couples indulge in fresh seafood, and music pulses from neon-lit clubs into the early hours of the morning. Climb up to the Póros clocktower at sunset to watch as hues of pink and orange disappear behind Peloponnesian windmills and the still blue waters of the Saronic Gulf.

Tzia

Thought of as one of the best daytrip locations, the closest Cycladic island to the capital, just one hour away from Lavrio port, Tzia is one of the most popular destinations for Greeks and tourists alike. Its small alleyways leading to beautiful beaches and its vibrant natural landscapes make it stand out from other islands. Downtown Tzia is full of traditional houses and is perfect for walk and even hiking, offering a total of 81km of hiking trails.

Ydra

The crescent-shaped port of Ydra offers a beckoning image of the island’s picturesque shores. Whitestoned buildings dot the island’s slopes, and at night, the island’s pier glows warmly under the lights

of numerous restaurants and bars. With no cars or motorcycles, donkeys are tasked to transport luggage, produce, and sometimes even people, to different destinations, their clacking hooves setting the island’s rhythm. Explore Ydra Town by strolling through its web of narrow pedestrian streets, and meander up hiking trails to visit hilltop Monasteries. Watch the sunset over drinks and a swim at Spilia Beach, or spend the day soaking up the sun at one of the island’s more remote beaches, like Bisti, accessible by water taxi. Only a two hour ferry ride from Piraeus, Ydra is a perfect destination for those interested in a day trip, weekend getaway, or more budget-friendly island hopping experience.

SUMMER 2022_ 87

Sounio

A quick getaway by car, in the southernmost part of Attica is Sounio. The combination of the Ancient Temple of Poseidon and the Sounio beach located right beneath is exactly what you need to get away from the fast paced life of the capital. The beautiful view of the sunset with the temple seeming almost like a painting is an experience you only get in Sounio. After a quick dip, all roads lead to the local taverns with fresh seafood and fries. The Archaeological Site of Sounio is the best place to visit, before or after a swim, as it is open throughout almost the entirety of the day, from 9:30 to 20 minutes before sunset.

88 _ SUMMER 2022

Follow @athensvoice Upload your favourite moments on instagram using the hashtag #athensvoice

Delphi

Below towering Mount Parnassus lies the remains of ancient Delphi. This location is rich with history and one of the most important archeological sites in Greece. As a visitor, you are transported back to a time where fact and fiction are intertwined and sometimes indistinguishable. Less than a three hour drive from Athens, you can experience the tangible past of Delphi in a single day.

SUMMER 2022_ 89

Emergency Numbers

Hospitals

Accident Hospitals Aiport Police +302103536919 Asklipieio Voulas 1 Vassileos Pavlou str.,Voula, Coast Guard 108 +302132163000 ELPA (roadside assistance) 10400 KAT 2 Nikis str., Kifissia, +302106280000 Fire Service 199 Public General Hospitals Hospitals, Doctors, Evangelismos 45-47 Ipsilantou str., Pharmacies Info 14944 Evangelismos, +302132041000 Police 100 Geniko Kratiko-Gennimatas 154 Mesogion str., SOS Doctors 1016 Ethniki Amyna, +302132032000 Tourist Police 171 Traffic Police +302105230111 Ippokratio 114 Vas. Sofias str., Ambelokipi, +302132088000 Laiko 17 Agiou Thoma str., Ambelokipi, +302132060800 Ambulance service 166 Tzanio Afentouli & 1 Tzani str., Piraeus, +302132081000 Emergency Police 100 Public Children’s Hospitals Fire Service 199 Agia Sofia Thivon & Papadiamandopoulou str., Greek Railways OSE 14944 Goudi, +302132013000 Aglaia Kyriakou Thivon & Levadias str., Goudi, Piraeus Port +302132009000 Authority +302104593000 Rafina Port Authority Maternity Hospitals Alexandra 80 Vas. Sofias str., Megaro Moussikis, +302294023605 +302132162000 Lavrio Port Authority Elena Venizelou Elena Venizelou sq. 2, +302292025249 Ambelokipi, +302106432220 Eleftherios Venizelos 14944 Iaso 37-39 Kifisias str., +302106184000 International Airport Leto 7-13, Mouson str. ,+302106902000 +302103530000 Mitera Kifissias & 6 Erithrou Stavrou str., +302106869000 90 _ SUMMER 2022

Embassies Albania 7 Vekiareli str., Filothei, +302106876200 Australia 1-3 Kifissias str., +302108704000 Austria 4 Vas. Sofias str., +302107257270 Belgium 3 Sekeri str., Kolonaki, +302103617886 Bulgaria 33A Stratigou Kallari str., Psyhiko, +302106748106 Canada Ioannou 4 Gennadiou str., +302107273400 Cyprus Xenofontos 2A,+302103734800 Czech Republic 6 Seferi str., Psyhiko, +302106719701 Denmark 10 Mourouzi str., +302107256440 France 7 Vas.Sofias str., +302103391000 Germany Karaoli & Dimitriou 3 str., Kolonaki, +302107285111 Hungary 25 Karneadou

str., Kolonaki, Lytra str., Psyhiko, +302107256800 +302106725235 China 2A Krinon str., Serbia 106 Vas. Sofias Psyhiko, +302106723282 str., +302107774344 Ireland 5-7 Vas. Slovakia 4 Georgiou Konstantinou str., Seferi str., Psyhiko, +302107232771 +302106771980 Israel 1 Marathonodromon str., South Africa 60 Kifissias Psyhiko, +302106705500 str., Marousi, Italy 2 Sekeri str., +302106106645 Kolonaki, +302103617260 Spain 21 Dionysiou Japan Ethnikis Areopagitou str., Antistaseos str., +302109213123 +302106709900 Sweden 7 Vas. Netherlands 5-7 Vas. Konstantinou str., Konstantinou str., +302107266100 +302107254900 Norway 23 Vas. Sofias Switzerland 2 Iasiou str., str., +302107246173 +302107230364 Poland 22 Turkey 8 Vas.Georgiou Chrysanthemon str., str., +302107263000 Psyhiko, +302106797700 UK 1 Ploutarhou str., Romania 7 Em. Benaki +302107272600 str., Psyhiko, USA 91 Vas. Sofias str., +302106728875 Russia 28 Nikiforou +302107212951

Athens Voice English Guide 2022

Articles inside

Metro

Getaways

Restaurants

Beaches

Bars & clubs

Shopping

Sugar cravings

Bookshops

Open air cinemas

Monuments

Museums

Biking in Athens

Neighbourhoods

Green Oases

A first-timer

See Athens

Welcome to Greece