ATHLEISURE MAG #100 APR ISSUE | INDULGE YOURSELF AND ME TIME Josie Natori

When we began working in the fashion industry, there are a number of memories that we will never forget that allowed us to see the work of those who have brands that focus on the importance of heritage and artistry. One of our NYFW experiences involved a stunning runway show that showcased dramatic crisp white shirts with architectural collars and accessorized with belts and earrings. We also attended an intimate fragrance launch at her home where she not only played piano for us, but allowed us to see how her brand is truly one that runs seamlessly in your life beyond just what one wears on one's body. Josie Natori is the epitome of refined style, luxury, and the ultimate in self-care.

We sat down with the Founder and Chief Executive of The Natori Co. in her offices in NYC to talk about being a child prodigy in piano, how she climbed the corporate ladder at Merrill Lynch, and how her passion for creativity led to her launching her namesake company which includes a number of coveted labels, and the importance of having brand authenticity and integrity.

ATHLEISURE MAG: It is such a pleasure to see you again! We met many years ago!

JOSIE NATORI: Yes, you were at one of my fragrance launches, I don’t remember which one it was.

AM: Yes it was awhile ago and it was such a beautiful event as I was able to hear you play the piano, and you hosted it at your home. I have been such a fan of the brand for so long so it’s amazing to be here now to talk to you!

When did you realize that you loved fashion and wanted to design?

JN: No, I never said that I wanted to design. I loved fashion, when you grow up in the Philippines, you love clothes. So it was never a dream or an aim or a goal. It was a total accident as it was not something that I would have thought about.

I started out in Wall Street for 9 years and

it was a great business to be in. But then I also had this artistic background as a pianist as I had been playing since I was 4 and that creative and artistic aspect as well. I never dreamt of nor wanted to and I don’t like to be called a clothing designer. I’m an artist and a businesswoman. I like beautiful things and I have figured out how to do them.

AM: What do you love about playing the piano?

JN: It’s kind of second nature. You’re born, you dance, you play, you sing, you dance, you act, and my mother, she was also a pianist. So everyone had to play an instrument, you didn’t question it –you just did it. I started playing when I was 4, I performed concerts and at the age of 9, I played solo with the Manila Philharmonic Orchestra. Thank God that I did it and I love to play the piano because it’s a great way for me to express myself through the piano.

AM: That really nice.

You came to the US and attended Manhattanville College with your focus in Economics and you’re such a trailblazer, as you climbed the corporate ladder at Merrill Lynch in the 70s.

JN: Yes, I was the first female VP of Investment Banking at Merrill Lynch.

AM: Well what did it mean to you to have that position especially as a woman?

JN: You know what, when I was on Wall Street, that never really occurred to me. Growing up in Manila, I came from a place with strong matriarchal society where the women were very strong. My mother was an entrepreneur, my grandmother was also a businesswoman. I never questioned that. So when other people would look at what I did and say how unique it was, for me I never had that as an issue, I never confronted it, I didn’t worry about it, I just did it. I know that those looking at me felt that as a woman and a minority, I checked 2 boxes, but I never saw it that way. I think that I was just at the right place at the right time and I think that with my background and my upbringing, I had no fear.

AM: What took place for you to transition from being in finance and doing well, to move on to fashion?

JN: Yes, I got bored after being there for 9 years and I came to the decision that I had no desire to be the President of Merrill Lynch. It’s not that I was given that opportunity, but I knew that that wasn’t something that I wanted. I felt that I had climbed the mountain, and I woke up in the morning and I felt that I didn’t have -

AM: That fire.

JN: Yes. So I always knew that I would have my own business because my grandmother is entrepreneurial, my father started his business and he was a selfmade man. It was only a question of what business. Then Ken and I got married and I was thinking of what business we could do. We explored a brokerage firm, but we didn’t have the resources and it wasn’t the right time in the Stock Market. So I started exploring and thinking about other businesses like opening up a McDonald’s and other ideas. But it was just by accident that the business of import/export in the Philippines came up. Not in a million years was I thinking about design, it was about the trade of product. It evolved and I was really fortunate and the left brain and the right brain aligned. That’s what was missing. Wall Street had made me work in one way and there is a lot of creativity in that field that people find exciting, but for me, it was boring. In terms of finance I did enjoy making the deals. But in fashion you’re making deals and also working with product. It was exciting and I have always enjoyed fashion, I’m a shopaholic.

AM: What was your vision initially when you first launched the label?

JN: There was no vision, it was just buying and selling. It was just me seeing items and purchasing it and you just keep going. It was only later on when I brought in an embroidered blouse to a buyer and she felt that it would be great as a sleep shirt and so that was lingerie. At the time, lingerie was either lewd or frumpy. So I was lucky that I was able to get into that area and I was also very persistent and I learned on the job!

AM: It’s the best way to go about it sometimes.

JN: No one taught me.

AM: Looking at your brand today, you have a number of labels. What is your process in deciding what pieces will go with what portion of the label and the corresponding design?

JN: I think that over the years we have been fortunate to be able to have some tiers because you have Josie Natori which is the most luxurious, distinctive, and most expensive label and that’s not for everybody and it’s available at Saks in terms of its distribution. Natori is more everyday and it’s at Dillard's and N Natori at Von Maur. It’s for that day-to-day life. We also have Josie which is a bit dormant right now, but it is for that younger customer. We’re just really fortunate to be able to have that a brand that has different tiers and also includes various categories. I think that we have something to offer for everyone. Whether you’re buying a caftan for $6,000, $900, or $198 you see the difference in materials, but the integrity of the brand is there.

AM: I have had the pleasure to wear some of your caftan dresses from Josie Natori and they are the most stunning and beautiful pieces to wear.

JN: Thank you!

AM: One of the things that I like so much about your lines is that you do have a number of licensees and categories that are within the brand. What is your process in terms of how you decide on including accessories, home goods, candles, fragrances, etc?

JN: Well, I think that it was after 5 years. You know, you’re not really a brand until the customer tells you so. When the customer tells you, that’s when you can look at things differently and Natori really is a state of mind. There is a whole philosophy about it. I thought that the brand is about feeling good and there is a sociological element about the brand and there is also a design element. The brand is about having feel good products and being true to yourself as well as feminine. Then there is the actual aesthetic of the design which is the East-West and the modern aspects of it and you can see it in a number of the pieces that we have. It is about bringing art into life.

But when it comes to products, I’m not going to do pots and pans, that doesn’t relate to the brand. We’re focused on the inside and out as well as head-to-toe. Because you can create that East- West in so many places in the home and under the covers. A feel good brand means you’re going to think about fragrances, fabrics, and what makes you feel good. As a brand, I think that we have a point of view and that’s what makes us distinctive and there is also that psychographic where when you buy Natori, it’s a gift to yourself. It’s about feeling feminine, loving yourself, why not? It’s indulgence.

AM: One of my favorite bras is actually from your line as it’s a T-Shirt style super light and comfortable while feeling luxurious. It’s always easy to wear and I agree with you on how the brand inherently has that feel good nature about it.

In looking at the collections that you have, it allows that woman to go out to for a night on the town, to work, to being casual and to really navigate her life. What would be 3 pieces that are essential across your whole brand or for each individual label?

JN: That’s really hard and you know, my philosophy is that we make clothes that make you feel good, feminine, comfortable, elegant, and stylish. But where you wear it, that’s your decision! I’m not telling you what to do! Some people like to take our slip dress and wear it to sleep in, but someone else is wearing it to go out in. So for me, it’s a range of possibilities and a point of view. It’s a sensibility of how you dress you know? It’s a statement, it’s feminine, and to me, it’s about wearing it wherever you want!

In terms of pieces, you want to have that great foundation, so you want to make sure that your underwear is comfortable. Then you have those options of wearing a caftan, or a lovely kimono or a dress. Of course, there’s accessories and it’s hard to point out just one as there are so many options! To me, the items that are closest to your skin are the most important as opposed to what’s outside.

AM: I couldn’t agree more!

There was a runway show that you did years ago and I know my mom and I attended this show. Most of the looks were dynamic white crisp shirts paired with your accessories. I just remember seeing beautiful collars, elements of Geometria, and belts – it was just stunning.

JN: Oh great!

AM: It was like a Dynasty moment which I am a huge fan of as I love the glamour and drama that came through with the way that the characters were styled on that show.

JN: I am very proud of the artistry that we have created for this brand and the handwork comes from the Philippines. We have been able to bring that craftsmanship to our collections and it’s about bringing the best of the past and to apply it to modern luxury whether it’s on your body or your bed. I just think that we deserve it. We work so hard on this Earth!

AM: Where do you see the brand going whether it’s collaborations or big product launches that we should keep an eye out for?

JN: We are fortunate that we have built a following and a customer base and we have never taken that for granted! We need to continue to be relevant to the next generation. We want to continue only do the categories that relate to the brand and we always have to think about who our customer is. Each generation is different and I am always thinking about who we can speak to what they are looking for and what makes sense for who we are. We can’t be stuck. My son is the President of Natori and we’re always looking forward and keeping things fresh.

AM: What does it mean to you to have Natori as a member of the CFDA?

JN: Obviously, it’s a wonderful organization that really showcases and supports its members and it’s great to have a voice and I appreciate that. I don’t really consider myself a designer, but I think it is important to be involved whether it’s hosting a function/event, to mentor as well as to advise and to have that representation.

AM: Absolutely.

What are you the most proud of in terms of what you have done with this Empire?

JN: Well, it’s not an empire number 1.

AM: I think it is a big deal to be around as long as you have with your distribution channels, licenses and being a multi-million dollar brand. To start as a sleepwear/lingerie brand and to have an array of celebs like Lady Gaga, Kate Beckinsale, and Rose Huntingon-Whiteley wearing your labels.

JN: I have to say that we are very proud. There aren’t too many brands, I don’t think that have lasted this long and are independent. So I feel that that is something that my family is very proud of. My son Ken taking over as President, but I’m not retiring anytime soon! I’m getting close to 77, but I don’t feel old you know? It’s really a mindset to me and I think young! When I’m traveling with our team, sometimes they say, “can we rest?” and I say, “what do you mean rest? It’s time to go!” They are more than half my age. So it’s fun and I think that we are just proud that we are able to build this brand and we are proud of the connections to the Philippines because I think that without my Asian heritage, and I am very proud about that, it is what distinguishes me and it is my point of differentiation to bring that heritage and background and to bring the essence of that in an art form into our prints and patterns is great to add and to infuse in our modern way of living. It’s been an exciting journey you know? We’re known for our prints and I think that being able to have that distinctive point of view we are proud of what we have offered and continue to do. We are proud of being a privately held and family owned company. But, there is no sitting on your laurels. It’s a very tough environment and we’re just navigating that is the business climate is different and has its challenges. But it’s exciting when you’re doing this and to see what you have built and will continue to do as you evolve and to present yourself the way that you want to present yourself. There is freedom in being able to do that. I’m proud of that and I think the real test is that I want the brand to live beyond me. It has to keep on going and we can’t bastardize the brand. I’d rather keep the brand like this and to have integrity which is important to me.

AM: You have been such a trailblazer and it has been such an honor to have you talk with us about the brand so that we can share with our fans and readers of Athleisure Mag!

JN: I’ve looked at your magazine and Athleisure doesn’t mean that you’re just wearing the sweats, track suits, or activewear. I think the term and how you present it is redefining it. Natori is a way of dressing. It’s a way of dressing that’s feminine, glamorous, statement, full of color, happy, and it feels good. It’s a mindset of how you want to be whether I’m relaxing and reading the paper on the couch. Athleisure is my time! It’s me time! That’s why Natori is about buying for yourself! You can buy it and afford the pieces that you want and I think it is interesting!

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@josienatori

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Natori