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ATHLEISURE MAG #96 DEC ISSUE | THE ART OF THE SNACK Tsubame
As we end the year, we find that we tend to enjoy going out just a bit more! It's the perfect way to eat at places that we enjoy coming back to again and again as well as to try something entirely new that we feel will be in our rotation for years to come!
Located in Tribeca, Tsubame is a Kaiseki Inspired Omakase. We sat down with Chef/Owner Jay Zheng who talks about the recently launched restaurant that will allow our tastebuds to be truly transported with each bite that we enjoy of their menu.
He shares his culinary background, why he opened this restaurant, the menu's focus as well as walking us through what we can expect when we make our next reservation for one of the two seatings that they have available for dinner.
ATHLEISURE MAG: When did Tsubame launch?
CHEF JAY ZHENG: Tsubame opened its doors on August 29, 2023
AM: Can you tell me about your culinary background? Where did you train and what kitchens you worked in prior to opening Tsubame?
CHEF JZ: Born in rural China, my family grew up under very humble beginnings. In search of a more prosperous future, my father emigrated our family to the United States Midwest when I was 7, where I was first introduced to a kitchen in my family’s new restaurant at the time. Humbly, the restaurant took off, and around my early teenage years, my father took our family on frequent visits to Japan where I gained extensive knowledge of culinary tradition and culture. I quickly fell in love. Since, I had a stint at the Peninsula Hotel in Chicago.
AM: What was the reason and vision behind Tsubame?
CHEF JZ: Initially, I opened my first restaurant in Indiana in 2012, but authentic Jap -
anese cuisine was less appreciated in the area than I had hoped. After 4 years, in 2016, I was fortunate enough to move to New York City, where I opened Gaijin, an upscale sushi restaurant in Astoria, Queens, which I relaunched as Kōyō after the pandemic. While this restaurant was a success, I always had my heart set on opening a location in Manhattan, so when I found the location in Tribeca for Tsubame, I jumped on the opportunity. The name, Tsubame, comes from a barn swallow that nested in my childhood village during the spring.
AM: Tsubame is a kaiseki-inspired omakase restaurant. Many of our readers are familiar with omakase, but can you tell us about what kaiseki is and how that connects with an omakase experience?
CHEF JZ: In Japan, Kaiseki refers to a traditional multi-course meal, crafted from the finest seasonal ingredients. It is characterized by extreme sophistication of taste and appearance, carefully selected ingredients, and meticulous attention to the arrangement of the vessels and space. The world of kaiseki is a very deep world involving the concept of wabi-sabi and the five yin-yang elements. At Tsubame, we employ the Japanese culinary concept of Shun for our kaiseki-inspired progression, using ingredients at their prime seasonal freshness, making each offering both the best-tasting and most visually appealing. This is central to my omakase preparation because I believe omakase is more than just a dining experience, but also a sensory one as well.
AM: How does one become a kaiseki master?
CHEF JZ: You must be trained in true Kaiseki restaurants for years to become a master, which not many exist outside of Japan. There are no shortcuts to becoming a master.
AM: For those that are coming to Tsubame, can you tell us about the ambiance
and the space?
CHEF JZ: The interior was designed by AESAM based in Hong Kong in a minimalist fashion with blonde wood and a white textured wall that is inset and backlit to set a very relaxed mood. The tasting counter is lined with very comfortable high, black velvet barstools trimmed in gold. At the entrance are handblown white glass birds to evoke the restaurant’s namesake. While the interior is clean and comfortable, we wanted to avoid the over-the-top flashiness so we could let the ingredients and dishes shine instead.
AM: With only 10 seats for diners, how many sittings are available each night?
CHEF JZ: 2 seatings, at 5:30 p.m. and 8 p.m. from Tuesday to Saturday.
AM: Can you walk us through each portion of the seasonal menu which is 8 courses?
CHEF JZ: Our menu rotates quite often as our menu is based on seasonal freshness, but recently, here are some of the dishes we’ve had.
Sakizuke – the amuse bouche – launches the meal. My Shiroebi Uni Shokupan is a big opener, housemade milk bread layered raw baby shrimp from Toyama and vivid uni from Hokkaido, garnished with shiso flowers. Luxuriously creative, it sets a tone for the meal that follows.
Hassun, meaning “eight inches” is a collection of small bites served on miniature dining pedestals and marks the menu as an evocation of the season establishes my range as a chef. Eaten from right to left, the dishes are: Tako, Hokkaido octopus tentacle slow braised for four hours with daikon and served with wasabi, is pure Japanese country; Caviar Shiso Potato Pave heaps rich, briny Ossetra caviar atop a crispy scalloped potato and garnished with citrusy sansho pepper that gives the dish a Tokyo-meets-Paris sophistication; Toro Gobo Tart combines raw bluefin tuna, crisped gobo (burdock root) and
torched rakkyo (pickled onion) in a rice paper wafer.
Yakimono, in more traditional fashion, is a grilled fish course. Japanese Amadai (tilefish) is crisped yubiki style with hot oil before it is finished on a binchotan grill, served with house made negi shoyu (green onion and soy sauce) over baby corn.
The Mushimono that follows features Dungeness crab, and nagaimo (mountain yam), layered in an egg custard that is finished a slurry of kudzu and shaved black truffles. It’s a worldly New Yorker’s take on Chawanmushi.
Futamono (lidded dish) is A5 Miyazaki Wagyu Shabu Shabu with udon made of pressed sawara (Spanish mackerel), in awase dashi, is a tribute to Chef’s family fish noodle. It is accompanied by a jidori egg in sweet shoyu (soy sauce) for dipping.
The entrée is Gohan, a rice course served in two different sets beginning with a nigiri progression and ending with a small rice bowl. For his nigiri, chef favors a fluffy, lightly seasoned blend of two grains of koshihikari rice, Tsubame will serve seven to eight piece of nigiri for each seating, which may include: ten day aged Shima aji (striped jack); Kinmedai (golden eye snapper) from Chiba; Barracuda from Kamasu; lightly cured Iwashi (sardine); Aji (horse mackerel) from Oita; Toro (tuna) from Spain; and Muki Hotate (scallop) from Miyagi. The proceeding rice bowl is composed of Uni from Hokkaido and Ossetra caviar over koshihikari rice.
The experience concludes with Mizumono, two light seasonal desserts. The first is a light serving of Hojicha Custard topped with bruléed seasonal fruits. As it is customary to end a kaiseki meal with tea, Tsubame serves ceremonial Uji Matcha Green tea from Kyoto with seasonal fruit.
AM: Tell me about your beverage program and pairings that you suggest with this meal?
CHEF JZ: We offer a sake program, sourced from World Sake Imports, including rarities, as well as a selection of Japanese beers and teas. I would suggest Sake to be paired with the experience, as it’s most traditional and pairs excellently with the flavors of the fish.
AM: As we're in the holiday season, can you tell us about what Tsubame's NYE and NYD plans are?
CHEF JZ: We will be open for New Year’s Eve under normal operating hours, one seating at 5:30 p.m. and another at 8 p.m. It’s a perfect destination to ring in the New Year with a luxurious date night, or simply for a great meal.
@tsubameny
