ATHLEISURE MAG #66 JUN 2021 | THE ART OF THE SNACK: Concord Hill

As the summer continues, there are more opportunities to go out and enjoy the long days with friends and family. For this month's The Art of the Snack, we talk with Owner/Chef Guy Kairi to find out about Concord Hill located in Brooklyn. He shares his culinary journey, what we should order on our next visit and what we can expect when we swing by.

ATHLEISURE MAG: Tell us about your culinary background.

CHEF GUY KAIRI: I grew up in Tel Aviv in a family of Greek and Egyptian immigrants and food was always a big part of my life. I went to culinary school in New York and when I graduated, I kept thinking about working in Europe even though New York had a great culinary scene. I just wanted a more classic setting where I could perfect my skills. I spent some time in France, about six months since I could not afford to work for free for very long! I apprenticed in a few restaurants in Paris and a butcher shop in Normandy, absorbing whatever knowledge I could along the way. When I returned home to Israel, I wanted to put my classic training to use. My first five years were spent at a super busy bistro at a boutique hotel. I learned to work very fast in the kitchen while still maintaining the quality of food. This was a good first part of my career and made it easier to take a step up to fine dining. Then I heard about a Japanese chef coming from the UK to open a restaurant in Tel Aviv, also in a boutique hotel. It was a very interesting project as it took 13 years to renovate the building. A real passion project from a guy from London who wanted to have his favorite London restaurant, Dinings, in the hotel. [I actually was connected with him through some friends in the art world, his art dealer was my friend.] It was a complete switch from French to Japanese, like starting from scratch. The whole approach to the experience was completely different so I immersed myself fully into the process. Usually to be a sushi chef, you need 7 – 10 years of training but the chef said I would be ready in 3 years. By the end of my time there, I was able to execute the menu at a very high level. I did learn that you can make amazing things in a small space. All it takes is to be adaptable, creative and have a skillful hand. By the time I was in my mid-thirties, I knew sushi was not my passion. My real passion is more connected to cooking with wood and live fire with a clear connection to nature and what’s going on around us. I was always drawn to the sea and seafood. My focus became more about cooking simple preparations but using the best ingredients. I’ve also worked in San Sebastian and was very inspired by my time there.

AM: How would you define your style of cooking?

CHEF GK: For me, it all starts with the ingredients, which is then backed up with Japanese techniques and classic French preparation.

AM: What led you to become the chef/ owner of Concord Hill located in the Brooklyn?

CHEF GK: While I was in cooking school, I bartended in the West Village. Over the years, I kept in touch with the owner and whenever I came back to see what was happening in NYC, we’d meet up. I was scoping out what it would take for me to open in the city. He co-owned this restaurant with two people I used to work with but it wasn’t really working out. He was torn between closing or selling, really whatever came first. For me, coming from a foreign country, having a place that was plug and play was the best option. I had already lived in Williamsburg and it was natural for me to come back. Concord Hill provided me with a good platform to do what I wanted without having to build a restaurant first.

AM: When did you launch and what can guests expect when they come to dine at Concord Hill?

I bought the restaurant in April 2019 and then spent several months slowly changing the menu. Guests can expect a warm welcome, we’re sort of “fine casual.” I’m committed to sourcing high quality ingredients, at the peak of the season and at peak quality. The menu evolves with the seasons and always features different types of seafood and flavors. Diners have the option for a lighter meal or more sophisticated multi-course dinner. I look for healthy ingredients, grown and harvested responsibly.

AM: Can you talk about the aesthetics of your restaurant for those that will be dining inside?

CHEF GK: The dining room is intimate, about 36 seats, but we nearly double the seating in the warmer months with the outdoors. We have touches of marble like our bar counter top and some ledges but generally the décor is simple and color palette muted. It’s really about what’s on the plate.

AM: When creating this menu, can you tell us about where inspiration for your dishes came from?

CHEF GK: It always starts with the ingredients. I love talking with my purveyors about what they’re bringing in. From there, it’s all about how to prepare them in the simplest way.

AM: What are 3 signature dishes that you suggest that we should enjoy?

CHEF GK: Hay Roasted Chicken – if you like chicken that’s a great one to try. Yuzu-miso Glazed Grilled Shrimp – it’s just a delicious combination of flavors. Wild Caught Fish - I always have a wild caught fish on the menu. They’re caught off Long Island and brought to the restaurant whole. I butcher them here.

AM: What are 3 appetizers and/or desserts that we should try at Concord Hill?

CHEF GK: Mushrooms with Egg Yolk - our mushrooms are foraged and I only use free-range eggs. Jamon Iberico on a mini baguette from Balthazar shows off one of the world’s greatest hams. It really brings me back to my time in San Sebastian in Spain. Basque Cheesecake with fermented blackberry sauce has become a signature dessert at the restaurant. It’s also inspired by my time in the Basque country in Spain. The crustless cheesecake is baked at high temperatures to create a singed outer layer that gives it a burnt look on the outside yet it is airy and velvety on the inside.

AM: What are 3 cocktails that you suggest we should have when visiting?

CHEF GK: There’s a fun story with one of our signature drinks, the MandarAnna. It was a bespoke cocktail we created for the birthday of Anna, one of our great friends and loyal customers. It’s made with mezcal, mandarin, morita chile. St. Germain, thyme. She loved it and asked us to put it on the menu, which we were happy to do. The Goose is Loose with pear vodka, lemon, ginger, jalapeño, pear puree – it has a little kick from the ginger and jalapeño tamed by the fruit. It’s light and easy to drink.

You've Gotta Be Kiwiing Me is made with gin infused with kiwi, cucumber and basil, boomsma bitter, aquavit and lemon. Our bar team loves to infuse spirits with other ingredients to create uniquely flavored, delicious cocktails that you can’t find anywhere else. The cocktails change seasonally and this one is perfect for summer.

AM: What vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free friendly items do you have?

CHEF GK: Fresh Herbs & White Beans and Grilled Mixed Cauliflower are both vegan dishes. For vegetarian options we have Mixed Lettuce, Almond & Pear Salad; Mixed Organic Mushrooms & Egg Yolk; Grilled Kale & Parmigiano Reggiano, and Truffle Fingerling Potatoes.

AM: During COVID-19, many restaurants have had to pivot on how they serve the guests and neighborhoods with pickups, delivery, reduce indoor dining, outdoor dining etc. – what have you been doing during this time?

CHEF GK: When the pandemic started, we pivoted immediately to pickup and delivery. It was just me and my GM working every day. I was cooking alone in the kitchen and it was incredibly stressful. We didn’t know how long we would have to do that. Thankfully, we had been doing some delivery beforehand so we didn’t have to start from zero. It grew pretty rapidly and introduced us to a lot of new customers. Our delivery volume today is actually still higher than before the pandemic so that’s a win. Now that everything is reopening and New Yorkers are dining out again, we are meeting people for the first time even though they have been delivery customers for over a year. That’s very cool. Outdoor dining has been amazing. Previously we only had a couple of tables outside but once the city loosened regulations, we were able to build a curbside structure and add several more tables on the sidewalk. We’re also part of Open Streets so in the summer we have a lot more seats.

IG @Guy.Kairi

@ConcordHillBK

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY | Concord Hill