Spinks Smokies

By Janice Hopper

One name dominates the world of Arbroath smokies, and that name is Spink, but there are several Spink companies ready to serve you their excellent seafood.

First off, M & M Spink has been in business since 1965, and it’s possible to visit their simple smokehouse on the Arbroath harbour side, which produces smokies in the traditional way. Here, visitors can see how the haddock is salted in brine before the catch is tied together by the tail, and gently smoked by hand over hardwood embers. Afterwards, make a few seafood purchases in the rudimentary but tempting shop.

Alternatively, consider G & A Spink Fish Merchants of Arbroath. Haddock, lemon sole, plaice, cod and hake make up much of their fresh product list, and the smoked fish specialities include Arbroath smokies, hot smoked salmon, trout, seabass, mackerel and herring. G & A Spink also own the delicious Tailend Restaurants in St Andrews and Dundee. While the Tailend fish bars serve traditional takeaway with classics such as haddock and chips, they offer so much more than that. Sit down to savour a starter of Scottish scallops, followed by a main of Arbroath smokies served up in a relaxed but smart restaurant setting. The cherry on the cake is the fact that children eat free in the restaurant on Sundays, making it an ideal spot for weekend family dining.

One of the most well known and revered Spinks in the smokie story is Iain Spink, the fifth generation of his family to work in the seafood industry. Iain starting working with his father, Robert Spink, in the family fish processing company, R. R. Spink and Sons, at the age of sixteen. Smokies were just one part of the many skills learned in those early years, as well as processing bigger hauls such as cod for household names like Findus and Birds Eye.

“I started working for my dad without much consideration, it was natural to help out,’ says Iain. ‘I had no idea smokies would go on to play such a big role in my life.”

Iain’s father played a key role campaigning to secure Arbroath smokie’s PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status. The successful inclusion of smokies in 2004, meant that the produce could only be made within a five mile radius of the town. Similar to champagne and Parma ham, such protection stopped imitators pushing their copies onto the market. It was a game changer in, not only protecting the authenticity of the smokie, but enhancing its reputation across Europe.

After Robert Spink sold the family business, Iain had a brief hiatus from the seafood industry, studying for a BSc in Environmental Science at the University of the Highlands and Martin Spink of M&M Spink

Islands. He returned to smokies almost by accident, as a way of making extra student income during the summer months, turning smokies into a business in a relatively unusual way. He hit the road, taking the haddock to festivals, markets and events to demonstrate how Arbroath Smokies are made, accompanied by a mix of jute string, old whisky barrels, hessian wrap and Toblerone-shaped wooden sticks to smoke the fish in the traditional way.

Iain’s first event was the Aberdeen Highland Games in 2002 then, after a busy season of summer shows, a friend asked Iain to bring his unique smokiemaking operation to Cupar’s farmers market, which he did, and they completely sold out. Not only did the audience gain insight into the smoking process, they could also purchase the freshest, hottest smokies available, at their very best, straight from the fire. The reactions were positive to say the least, with long queues of eager customers patiently waiting for the first batch of fish to come off the barrel. Iain carved out a niche for himself with this new business, and essentially committed the majority of his weekends for the next two decades to visiting the length and breadth of Scotland showcasing Arbroath’s most renowned local product. Over the years key events have included the Royal Highland Show, Moy Game Fair, the Golf Open, and T in the Park.

“One of my favourite events is Ardbeg day at the Islay Whisky Festival because of the fantastic, unique atmosphere across the whole island. Visitors from all over the world are in attendance, many of whom are trying their first ever smokie and washing it down with the latest smoky/peaty offering from Ardbeg. It’s a great combination — see me there 4 June 2022!”

Such markets and festivals were Iain’s shop window and, over time, this flair for engaging an audience led to television appearances ranging from Countryfile to Coast, meeting presenters such as Jamie Oliver and Gordon Ramsay. Iain even wrote ‘The Arbroath Smokie Bible’, featuring a host of recipes and smokie information.

Iain worked hard sharing his passion for Arbroath’s heritage food but Covid changed everything for his business model. A global pandemic threw a packed diary of events under the bus. Equally it allowed Iain to step back and assess his commitment to working the majority of weekends, especially over the summer. With decades of success behind him, he says he’s ready to take his foot off the gas.

“Over the years I’ve invested a lot of time introducing people to smokies and getting the word out there. It’s time for something new, and a few weekends at home!” History of Smokies The small fishing village of Authmithie has been claimed as the original home of the smokie. Around three miles north of Arbroath, this cliff top village looks down onto a small pebbled beach and the old harbour. While visiting, be sure to dine at the renowned but informal But’n’Ben restaurant. Guests tuck into traditional and warming hearty Scottish meals including But’n’Ben smokie pancakes, home-made cream of Arbroath smokie soup and hot buttered Arbroath smokie. thebutnben.com

Tailend St Andrews - Arbroath Smokie & Chips M & M Spink - mmspink.co.uk G & M Spink - gandaspink.co.uk Iain Spink - arbroathsmokies.net

Other Spinks of note include Alex Spink & Sons, plus there’s D. Spink & Sons Fish Merchants on the High Street.

The Arbroath Smokie Bible

Janice Hopper is a freelance writer based in Aberdeen who’s written features, copy and social media text for a range of publications and clients. Her Scottish family travel blog, Scots2Travel.com, covers child-friendly short breaks, attractions and activities.