Labor of Love

In the deep woods straddling the Northeastern Canadian/American border, just as winter’s last vestiges begin their recession and spring starts to steal itself into focus, the world’s maple syrup farmers trek out into the bush to begin their brief but intense harvest. A small portion of these farmers have embraced the traditional values central to the antiquated craft, opting to brew their share of the liquid gold the oldfashioned way.

These sugar shack operators’ secret to success is that they know that nature does the bulk of the work when it comes to transforming their sap into the sweet treat we love to slather over our breakfasts. Retaining relatively small-scale production without the help of industrialized machinery is no small feat; one gallon of maple syrup requires 40 gallons of sap boiled down over several days. The small-batch brewers have chosen to take the road less travelled in a noble effort to avoid the sacrificial shortcuts large-scale production often necessitates, like the vacuum lines of commercial producers which can have harmful impacts on the environment. These farmers combine their commitment to creating the purest possible product with a fierce ethical obligation to the conservation of nature. The story that these primarily family-owned businesses tell through their shared vision is a story that balances hard work and humility; a reminder of the value of simplicity and the virtue of patience. It is stories like this that resonate in our fast-paced society- a society that is often quick to forget a vital lesson that nature generously and steadfastly reminds us of: there is beauty in the process.

As the food industry shifts to accommodate more conscientious consumers, it is no longer an anomaly to encounter attempts at disentangling the long and elusive road from resources to retailer, but small batch maple syrup breweries have the concept of conscious sourcing embedded in their brand. With tools like social media, it is easy for owners and operators to practice transparency in the way they conduct business and production, fostering a connection with the consumers as well as personalizing their brand. The closer we can be to the production of our goods, the better we can feel about consuming them.

Similarly, the more we know about the companies we support, the better we can feel about exercising our purchasing power in their favor. One company, Cosman and Webb, integrates the history that informs the practice of sap collection, aligning their methodology with the indigenous peoples of northeastern North America, who were the first to discover the potential of sugar maple sap. The company’s organic certification is central to their image, boasting on their company website: “Unchanged by time, we sustainably tap delicious, organic maple syrup in a traditional sugar bush.” These assurances do more than ease anxieties over the impact of toxic chemicals and pesticides on bodies and the environment—their commitment to authenticity procures syrup with distinct flavor. Graeme Foers, owner and founder of “Tapped Out Small Batch” claims “a smoky, full-bodied, thicker consistency” differentiates the small batch mode of production from commercial vendors. This difference derives from the meticulous care put into the craft, but also from an approach that considers the endeavor to be a collaboration with nature rather than an exploration of it.” This sense of revere for the environment is both refreshing and inspiring in a period of overindustrialization and increasingly profitdriven business practice.

The process of maple syrup production begins during the lingering winter months when the temperature drops below zero during the night and tips above during the day. This repeated cycle of freezing and thawing creates the exact conditions necessary for the sugar maples to be ‘tapped’ (a small hole is drilled into the bark), allowing the sap to flow. Once spring takes full swing and trees begin to bud, the sap becomes too bitter to be boiled into syrup. This means their harvest (its length and productivity) is highly dependent on weather conditions, which is perhaps an integral aspect of the consistently genuine respect for nature evident in the philosophies of these businesses. They depend on the perfect conspiracy of several environmental factors to make a living; they have endured the despair and disappointment of winters where their harvest ends abruptly due to an unexpected heat wave, but they have also experienced the serendipitous joy of extended seasons that produce record setting crops. These small batch brewers consider their sugar maples to be the homes of diverse ecosystems, and they are careful to disrupt those habitats as little as possible. Graeme Foers of Tapped Out vows he “only takes what the tree will naturally offer”.

The inkling of rustic charm that attaches itself to this tried-and-true tradition proves it has substantial merit lurking beneath its wholesome appeal. These dedicated sugar maple brewers prove that there is a way to turn a profit and create valuable goods without taking shortcuts along the way. They demonstrate the oft-repeated and oft-overlooked sentiment: you can’t rush perfection. The labor-intensive task of collecting and transforming sap into syrup brings nature’s abundance into focus, fostering a keen sense of interconnectedness that inspires us not only to trust in the process, but to relish in it.

You may have noticed that syrup sometimes varies in color and consistency: this is due to the point of time in the season the sap was collected.

Grade A Light Amber

Clear and transparent enough for 75% of the light to shine through. This sap was probably collected in the early days of the season. The lighter the color, the lighter the taste.

Grade A Dark Amber

Medium dark syrup. Rich in flavor. This syrup was collected sometime in the middle of the season.

Grade B

A dark toned syrup that is robust in flavor and collected late in the season. Typically too strong to be used on its own, but often great for baking and cooking.

Grade C

Less than 30% of the light can shine through. Very dark and extremely strong. This syrup would have been collected at the close of the season.