Mudit mousam Gogoi by au-designcenter

INDIAN TRADITIONAL TEXTILES

Contents 1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21 23 25

Fabrics of India Ajrakh Banarasi Silk Bandhani Bhagalpuri Chanderi Chikankari Ikat Jamdhani Kalamkari Kanjivaram Kantha Kasavu

23 25 27 29 31 33 35 37 39 41

Kantha Kasavu Khadi Muga Silk Paithani Pashmina Patola Phulkari Sambalpuri Sanganeri

Fabrics of India The story of textiles in India is one of the oldest in the world. The earliest surviving Indian cotton threads date to around 4000 BC and dyed fabrics from the region are documented as far back as 2500 BC. India’s textiles were so central to its identity abroad that in ancient Greece and Babylon the very name ‘India’ was shorthand for ‘cotton’. India’s textiles are embedded in every aspect of its identity. Courtly splendour was proclaimed by magnificent fabrics and religious worship still finds expression through cloth.

India’s rich natural resources for making and decorating textiles are unrivalled. The varied geographical regions and climates provide a huge range of plant fibres and natural dyes for the cultivators, weavers, dyers, printers and embroiderers of the subcontinent. Over centuries, most regions developed specialities based on local resources: the golden silks of Assam, the fine cottons of Bengal, the red dyes of south-east India. Nothing speaks louder than a culture. And it’s essence is incomplete without traditions. Let’s step into the world of textiles, where we witness how cultures shape up these diverse traditions.

Ajrakh Rajasthan Ajrak is a block-printed textile that is resist-dyed using natural dyes. including indigo and madder. It is made by Khatris community in Kutch, Gujarat and is distinguished by its colour- blue with red - and its complex geometric & floral patterns. Its name is derived from ‘azarak’, ‘blue’ in Arabic and Persian. Ajrak is a legacy of text. It takes skill & patience to make Ajrak. There are between 14-16 different stages of dyeing and printing, which take 14-21 days to complete. The resulting cloth is soft against the skin and jewel-like in appearance, pleasing to touch & appealing to the eye.

Ajrakh printed cotton is traditionally worn by the pastoral Maldhari community. Apart from pagdis and lungis the women wear printed skirts, and use the ajrakh fabric as bed covers to line cradles for babies. Every colour tells a story and the design images the status. The Khatris have developed a feel for the contemporary market and now ajrakh yardage, kurta sets, furnishings, scarves can be bought. Ajrakh printing, using natural dyes is one of the oldest techniques of resist printing in India and is one of the most complex and sophisticated methods of printing.

Banarasi Silk Uttar Pradesh Banarasi Silk is a fine variant of Silk originating from the city of Varanasi in Uttar Pradesh, India. Saree woven from this fine silk, known as a Banarasi Silk Saree is extremely popular all over India and across the world. With a mention in the Mahabharata and in the Buddhist scriptures in the first millennium, Banarasi silk have its roots seeped into the rich cultural history of India. Originally crafted exclusively for the royalty, each Banarasi sari was created from real gold and silver threads, taking as much as a year to make.

It has actually been well known for its designing and gold as well as silver brocade or the ‘Zari’. The special characteristics of these sarees are their designs, which are Mughal inspired. Very often, it has been decorated with intricate floral as well as foliate designs. Moreover, you may also find a string of upright leaves, which are called as ‘Jhallar’. The idiosyncratic features of these Banarasi silk sarees include heavy working of gold, small detailed figures, metal visual effects and compact weaving as well.

Bandhani Gujrat Bandhej or Bandhani is the oldest form of tie and dye. According to the historical references, the first Bandhani saree was worn many years back, at a royal wedding. Ajanta caves also have a visual representation of Bandhej and this ancient art form is still in practice. Bandhani is generally performed on cotton and silk fabrics. The fabric is tied tightly, and it is then dipped in for a dye bath. The tied area of the fabric is dyed in vibrant colours.

Bandhej is generally worn as a wedding outfit or on traditional occasions. Finer the Bandhani work, more expensive the fabric is. Bandhani is generally made up of natural colours where the main colours are yellow, blue, green and black. Bandhej or Bandhani comes in a variety of designs, colours and patterns. These variations depend on the region this Bandhej fabric is manufactured in. After the making of Bandhani is over, it results in a variety of symbols including dots, waves, strips and squares.

Bhagalpuri Bihar The finest texture of silk springing out from the essence of nature and known as the ‘Queen of all fabrics’, Bhagalpuri Silk is very well known for its unique and striking resilience and superior quality. This intrinsic artwork showcases the original essence of Bhagalpur in its purest and flawless form. It is filled with every slice of Indian cultural aspects which are drawn from the intricacies of the natural surroundings and which are symbolic in its own form.

This elegant form of elegant artwork found its name, fame and recognition from the soil of Bhagalpur which is also popularly referred to as the ‘Silk City’. This purest and natural form of embroidered silk fabric traces its existence and emergence way back to the Vedic Age, which is centuries ago. However, the Maurya Age also recognized the magical soul of this artwork which managed to lure and attract majority of the people during that era and this attraction passed onto the later eras which slowly and gradually uplifted the level of recognition and demand of this artwork.

Chanderi Madhya Pradesh Chanderi is a traditional ethnic fabric characterized by its lightweight, sheer texture and fine luxurious feel. Chanderi fabric is produced by weaving in silk and golden Zari in the traditional cotton yarn that results in the creation of the shimmering texture. This fabric can be classified into three types â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Chanderi silk cotton, pure silk and Chanderi cotton. Traditionally, Chanderi fabric was primarily used in weaving Sarees and Salwar Kameez material.

Creation of unique buttis or motifs and the transparent or sheer texture of Chanderi fabric are the two prime characteristics that distinguishes it from other handloom fabrics. The buttis or motifs on Chanderi fabric are primarily hand woven on handloom, with the use of needles. Separate needles are used to create different motifs. Weavers coat these motifs with gold, silver as well as copper. Motifs created using chanderi weaving are inspired from nature and include Swans, gold coins, fruits, and heavenly bodies.

Chikankari Uttar Pradesh Chikankari is very similar to Shadow work, a white embroidery work that uses herringbone stitches on the back of the fabric to fill designs, resulting in a fine shadow on the face of the fabric. Chikan work is a combination of many different embroidery stitches, flat, raised and knot stitches. In chikan work some of the designs are worked from the back of the fabric and others from the front.

Chikankari designs were embroidered on the finest of cotton mulmul (muslin) fabrics during the Mughal period, and it had value and worth for its aesthetics. It had been encouraged very much during that time to make it one of the most popular embroidery techniques of India and which has remained so till date. This embroidery technique is popularly used to adorn beautiful kurtas and sarees and even home decor items.

Ikat Hyderabad Ikkat is one of the most ancient techniques of dyeing the fabric. The way in which these yarns are binded together, results in different pattern formation on the fabric. This process may be repeated multiple times, to create intricate patterns in a range of colors. Since the surface design of the Ikat fabric is created on both faces of the fabric; because of the yarn binding, Ikat fabric looks the same on both sides. Ikat pattern is not formed by weaving different yarns with complex strands, nor is it formed by printing on fabric

Ikat pattern is not formed by weaving different yarns with complex strands, nor is it formed by printing on fabric Ikat or Ikkat patterns are formed by dyeing the warp and weft yarns before weaving it. Ikat is an elaborate dyeing procedure done with cotton and silk fabrics. Ikat is a resist dyeing technique that is used to dye the yarns before weaving the fabric. Characteristic quality of Ikat fabric is its apparent blurriness to the design. This blurriness is a result of the difficulty a weaver faces while making the finished cloth.

Jamdani West Bengal Jamdani is a fine muslin textile of Bengal, produced for centuries in South Rupshi of Narayanganj district in Bangladesh. The historic production of jamdani was patronized by imperial warrants of the Mughal emperors. Under British colonialism, the Bengali jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to colonial import policies favouring industrially manufactured textiles. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh. Jamdani is typically woven using a mixture of cotton and gold thread.

Though mostly used for saris, Jamdani is also used for scarves and handkerchiefs. Jamdani is believed to be a fusion of the ancient cloth-making techniques of Bengal with the muslins produced by Bengali Muslims since the 14th century. Jamdani is the most expensive product of Dhaka looms since it requires the most lengthy and dedicated work. Jamdani patterns are mostly of geometric, plant, and floral designs and are said to have originated thousands of years ago. Due to the exquisite painstaking methodology required, only aristocrats and royal families were able to afford such luxuries.

Kalamkari Andhra Pradesh Kalamkari is an ancient style of hand painting done on cotton or silk fabric with a tamarind pen, using natural dyes. The word Kalamkari is derived from a Persian word where ‘kalam’ means pen and ‘kari‘ refers to craftsmanship. This art involves 23 tedious steps of dyeing, bleaching, hand painting, block printing, starching, cleaning and more. Motifs drawn in Kalamkari spans from flowers, peacock, paisleys to divine characters of Hindu epics like Mahabharata and Ramayana.

Kalamkari art primarily use earthy colours like indigo, mustard, rust, black and green. Natural dyes used to paint colours in Kalamkari art is extracted for natural sources with no use of chemicals and artificial matter. For instance, craftsmen extract black colour by blending jaggery, water and iron fillings which they essentially use for outlining the sketches. While mustard or yellow is derived by boiling pomegranate peels, red hues are created from bark of madder or algirin.

Kanjivaram Tamil Nadu Kanchipuram, also spelled as Conjeevaram, Kanjeevarum, Kanjiwaram, Kanjivaram is traditionally woven silk from the village called Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, India. For years now, Kanchipuram silk sarees have dominated the world of South Indian sarees. Synonymous with the sarees of South India, these are the mark of culture for every south Indian wedding, ceremony or occasion. The shine and durability of the fabric have made these Sarees popular attire among women across the globe. Thandavalam is one such patterned saree where parallel lines describe the saree.

Kanchipuram silk initially started with the 9-yard sarees that were woven to blend well with the culture of designing and patterning temple stories. Over a period of time, these sarees were converted to 6 yards with gold zari weaving. To make it available for every budget, these days there are Kanchipuram silk sarees woven in artificial gold zari, without loosing upon the shining glory of this textile. The saree has evolved in terms of textures and shapes have taken over the scriptures and art of the silk sarees. Each texture and desi have a name allotted to it with which it is best known.

Kantha West Bengal Kantha, a popular style of embroidery that comes from West Bengal, is a significant symbol that displays the skill and talent of the rural women in Bengal. Kantha, which basically means ‘throat’, is associated with Lord Shiva. The story revolves around how Lord Shiva consumed poison while stirring up the ocean, and therefore the significance of this word goes all the way back to the Vedic times. This type of stitch is basically the ‘running’ stitch, and is very simple.

Kantha is perhaps the oldest forms of Indian embroidery as it can be traced back to the first and second A.D. The thought behind this needlework was to reuse old clothes and materials and turn them into something new. This is what makes kantha embroidery only one of its kind. Kantha embroidery has definitely taken the fashion industry by storm. Sharbari Datta, an Indian fashion designer, has displayed beautiful ensembles of Kantha work, along with other Indian traditional embroideries, in several of her fashion shows.

Kasavu Kerala Kasavu is a handwoven cream colored saree with gold border, worn by Malayalee women. From the land of ‘God’s own country’, Kerala’s Kasavu emerges as one of the finest traditional saris which define the essence of the beauty of every woman in Kerala. It is a handloom designed material which enhances its glamor through the intrinsic borders soaked in the colour of pure gold. This fabric sari is considered to be the most auspicious attire for women in Kerela, especially during their new year, as per the Hindu calendar.

The basic attire of Kerala Kasavu is basically categorized into two pieces of garments; one is the ‘kara’ which represents the colored bit of a design that is imprinted in the border and the second which is the ‘Mundu’ that defines the lower portion of the garment. The attire also consists of the upper garment which is known as the ‘Neriyathu’. Traditional kasavu borders have also been creatively replaced by Diamonds and check shaped motifs and designs. Golden borders have added more colours like Green and Red in them, thus enhancing the look even more.

Khadi Gujrat Khadi fabric, also known as khaddar, is a hand-woven natural fibre made with cotton. The other variations of Khadi fabric include silk and wool. Khadi fabric originated during the time of Mahatma Gandhi when he led the Swadeshi Movement. This fabric has a rugged texture and feel comfortable when worn during winter season while also keeping one fresh in summers. In the year 1925, All India Spinners Association commercially launched Khadi fabric.

Advanced weaving techniques emerged and continued to flourish even after independence. KVIC (Khadi and Village Industries Commission) even today, is known for planning and promoting the development of Khadi fabric. After the fabric amassed considerable fame, the organisation worked diligently to improve the techniques and offer employment to Indian artisans. With dynamic advancements, Khadi fabric is now available in multiple variations.

Muga Silk Asssam One of the rarest Silks in the world is the Muga silk from Assam. It is produced only in Assam and nowhere else. The fact that sets this Silk apart from all other versions is that it is totally golden yellow in colour. The word `Mugaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; means yellowish in Assamese. It is known for its resilience. It can be given a fine texture by dry ironing it in a damp state or it can attain a crushed look by not getting ironed. This is one unique fabric where the golden luster increases with age. Any type of embroidery by a thread can be done on it.

The source of it is the Muga Silkworm which goes back to the age of the dinosaurs and is so sensitive in nature that it cannot tolerate even the most minimum of pollution levels. It is made from the semi-cultivated silkworm named Antheraea assamensis. It is organic and natural and has the strongest natural fiber. It is the most expensive type of Silk and is used for making products only for the upper segments of the market. One of the major highlights of Muga Silk is its longevity. It is said that generally, a Muga Silk fabric outlives the wearer.

Paithani Maharashtra Paithani sarees hold a treasured place in the trousseau of a bride. Symbolising the spirit of true Maharashtrian culture, the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Queen of Silksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is so called because only royals and aristocrats once wore it Paithani is a variety of sari, named after the Paithan town in Aurangabad Maharashtra state where the saree was first handmade. Present day Yeola town in Nashik, Maharashtra is the largest manufacturer of Paithani. Made from very fine silk, it is considered as one of the most expensive saris in India.

The lustrous weave makes a joyful intermingling of hues that creates the delicate illusion of shifting colours. The traditional motifs include parrots, peacocks and lotuses; however, during the Peshwa period, the Hans motif, the Ashraffi motif and the Asawalli were equally popular. The pallu usually consists of Muniya, a kind of parrot that is woven in the borders in green, with a whimsical touch of red at the mouth.

Pashmina Kashmir Pashmina refers to a fine variant of spun cashmere, the animal-hair fibre forming the downy undercoat of the Changthangi goat. The word pashm means â&#x20AC;&#x153;woolâ&#x20AC;? in Persian, but in Kashmir, pashm referred to the raw unspun wool of domesticated Changthangi goats. In common parlance today, pashmina may refer either to the material or to the variant of the Kashmir shawl that is made from it. Pashmina accessories are known for their softness and warmth.

Pure pashmina is a rather gauzy, open weave, as the fibre cannot tolerate high tension A craze for pashmina shawls, known as shahmina in Kashmir, in the mid-1990s resulted in high demand for the raw material, so demand exceeded supply. When these shawls rose into fashion prominence during the era, they were marketed dubiously. In the consumer markets, pashmina shawls have been redefined as a shawl/wrap with cashmere and cashmere/silk, notwithstanding the actual meaning of pashmina.

Patola Gujrat Patola is a double ikat woven sari, usually made from silk, made in Patan, Gujarat, India. The word patola is the plural form; the singular is patolu. They are very expensive, once worn only by those belonging to royal and aristocratic families. These saris are popular among those who can afford the high prices. Velvet patola styles are also made in Surat. Patola-weaving is a closely guarded family tradition.

There are three families in Patan that weave these highly prized double ikat saris. It is said that this technique is taught to no one in the family, but only to the sons. It can take six months to one year to make one sari due to the long process of dying each strand separately before weaving them together. Patola was woven in Surat, Ahmedabad and Patan. Highly valued in Indonesia, became part of the local weaving tradition there.

Phulkari Punjab Phulkari refers to the folk embroidery of the Punjab. Although Phulkari means floral work, the designs include not only flowers but also cover motifs and geometrical shapes. The main characteristics of Phulkari embroidery are use of darn stitch on the wrong side of coarse cotton cloth with coloured silken thread. Punjabi women create innumerable alluring and interesting designs and patterns by their skilful manipulation of the darn stitch.

The traditional varieties of Phulkaris are large items of cloth and include Bagh, Chope, Subhar, Sainchi, Tilpatra, Neelal, Ghungat bagh and chammas. Sometimes, the Bagh is given separate categorisation of its own as on other varieties of a Phulkari, parts of the cloth is visible, whereas in a Bagh, the embroidery covers the entire garment so that the base cloth is not visible. The Phulkari continues to be an integral part of Punjabi weddings to the present day.

Sambalpuri Odisha Sambalpuri is a traditional handwoven ikat wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. The fabric incorporates of traditional motifs like shankha (shell), chakra (wheel), phula (flower). Sambalpuri fabrics reflect an original style of craft known as Baandha. Traditionally, craftsmen created Baandhas with images of flora or fauna or with geometrical patterns. More recently, new types of Baandha depicting portrait, landscape and flower pots are being designed. Baandha fabric is created using a tie-dye technique.

This versatile technique enables a craftsman to weave colourful designs, patterns and images into a fabric capable of inspiring a thought or conveying a message. It is believed that this art migrated to Western Odisha along with the Bhulia community who fled Northern India in the year 1192 AD after the fall of the Chouhan empire at the hands of the Mughals. Since then and up to the year 1925 it flourished in Western Odisha in a limited number of designs and in vegetable colours and consisted mostly of saris used by the womenfolk of the Odisha.

Sanganeri Rajasthan Sanganeri is a hand-block printing technique originating from Sanganer, a village in the southern part of Jaipur, Rajasthan. This form of textile printing is almost 5 centuries old and till date holds a prominent place in the world of weavers and craftsmen. Other than Sanganer, there are other villages like Bagru, Akola, Barmer, and Jodhpur that are famous for block printing. Delicate patterns and lines with vibrant colored designs are the defining factors for this kind of printing technique.

The Sanganeri printing technique developed between the 16th and 17th century. The constant wars between the Mughals and Marathas caused several craftsmen to migrate from Gujarat to Rajasthan. This craft ultimately found its haven in Sanganer, where it has been thriving ever since. It became one of the major export items for the East India Company, and its trademark was the original dye used for printing designs. This dye soon became a matter of significance in European culture as well.