OCD ramblings in Corsica

The shortest day OCD ramblings in Corsica

There's a precipitous descent from Lama village, then the road to Pietralba climbs for about two miles and has a million potholes (I exaggerate, but you get my drift) and some gravel strewn sections. Nevertheless, it's a gentle climb with pleasant scenery as the road twists and turns into and out of alternating sunshine and shadow on this fine December morning. Here I have to confess to a white lie in the title as it is only the 20th, the day before the shortest day, but Janet and I are making the most of it while the weather holds good. Up through Pietralba village we pass over the main road between Ponte Leccia and L’Ille-Rousse on a bridge. Now here's a situation that raises a question for OCD aficionados. The main road clearly goes over a 400m plus col here, but it's one that we avoid as there is a more attractive alternative. The bridge is a col too, in exactly the same place on the map as the main road col, and some metres vertically above it. I suppose I could dangle a tape measure from the bridge to the tarmac below to determine its height. Is this is the only instance of a bridge over a col like this? After a descent to Ponte Leccia and a short spin up the main road towards Corte, we take a left turn on the small and quiet D39 and start a gradual ascent out of the Golo valley. It is warm and still; the unmistakable smell of goat wafts across my nostrils. Sure enough, round the next corner and there they are – a whole 'troupeau de chèvres' blocking the route. We slow down respectfully: they look so vulnerable; small and elegant with their silky coats and lovely curved horns. And they're trapped on the road by impossible steep and rocky slopes each side. They amble along in front of us, apparently unconcerned. Suddenly the bubble is burst and they scamper into the maquis, scattering small stones as they disappear. Corsican goats obviously have different definitions of 'vulnerable' and 'impossible' to British cyclists (except, perhaps, the LEL and PBP types). As we gain height, the hairpins once again provide alternating sun and shade. Just as I'm beginning to get too hot, I'm in the shade again, and so avoid premature shedding of layers. Eventually, though,

12 Arrivée May 2017 No. 136 Alpine scenery

the heat generated by climbing exceeds even the solar gain and I stop to remove a couple of jackets. By chance, I'm right next to an 'arbuste'. The bush is evergreen and so looks quite Christmassy, covered in its red spherical fruits. I spend the next ten minutes eating them- rich in vitamin c, so I'm led to believe, and (of more immediate importance) sweet and tasty. Further and higher, the surroundings become more alpine and mountain peaks come into view, some with their first scattering of the winter snow. Most of the vegetation is evergreen, but the occasional clutch of deciduous trees in their late autumn colours make a nice contrast in the sunshine. Far on a distant hillside, the village of Aiti looks idyllic lying in the golden silence. Above a particularly sunny bend and just below Gavignano, there's a fountain where we sit and eat our sandwiches. There are three virgin Marys in the alcove, so I fill my bottle, confident in the superior quality of the water. After Gavignano, we pass through the charming hamlet of Castineta, offset by the snowy mountains viewed through the bare branches of a sweet chestnut tree. Soon we're in Morosaglia, at 801m the highest point of the route and surprisingly easily achieved. Unfortunately it's not a col. Then comes the descent back to Ponte Leccia via the Bocca a Serna, the only claimable col of the circuit at 696m (though I am still wondering about that bridge...). My literary ability is not sufficient to do justice to this long sweeping sunlit descent. How many big mountains can you fit into an island less than half the size of Wales? Ponte Leccia is an unprepossessing town (though a good centre for cycling), but I arrive there in an elated state- fuelled by adrenalin and endorphins, or whatever it is that makes you think that you've just had one of the best bike rides ever. I realise that I've done the entire circuit on my big chainring.This is not as impressive as it sounds as it only has 40 teeth and is linked to a 12- 32 cassette. I could have sworn I saw a wisp of smoke from the 32 tooth sprocket when I stopped at the fountain. Later, climbing back to Lama, I go wibbledy-bonk and have to stop for a snack, but that's another story.

Paul Harrison