WORDS AND PICTURES DAVID MATTHEWS
The majesty of the mighty Millau “viaduct in the clouds” was a highlight of David Matthews’ marathon ride from St Malo to the foothills of the Pyrenees – but searing heat, and lack of food were the main things on his mind during a blisteringly hot 1,330km solo ride through France in July
Hot and hungry on the road to the mountains
FRANCE WAS HOT in July this year. Very hot. The prediction of temperatures of 40c made me rethink my original plan to fly to Geneva and cycle across the Massif Central at the height of summer, to visit friends in Montmaurin, south-west France. It would have been impossible to acclimatise to the heat. So my carefully-laid plans were scrapped. I would, instead, sail to St Malo in Brittany, where the temperatures were predicted to be a balmy 25c, rising to 30c by the time I reached the Loire a few days later. These more reasonable temperatures would allow me to acclimatise before I reached hotter climes further south. The mid-point of the ride would be the famous “viaduct in the clouds” at Millau. I wanted to see this marvel of modern construction myself, even though I knew cyclists weren’t allowed to cross it. I left Chester by train for Portsmouth on 8 July and took the ferry to St Malo, ready to undertake my sixth solo, unsupported long ride through France.
ST MALO TO EGUZONE-CHANTOME – SIX DAYS, 518KM, 2,100M ASCENT
David Matthews
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This straightforward route, swinging south-east, served as an excellent hors d’oeuvre, with steady riding over rolling countryside. As ever in rural France I had difficulty getting enough to eat due to the sparsity of cafes and shops, but survived on what I had surreptitiously taken from breakfast and a few muesli bars brought over from England. Eventually I arrived in Eguzone-Chantome during the evening of Bastille Day celebrations, and enjoyed a meal outside on the hotel patio in the midst of it all.
