A wild ride in search of national treasure

With the pandemic scuppering plans for a super-European tour, Devonbased rider Kevin Presland teamed up with his pal Richard Etches, and looked closer to home for a summer challenge. They found one – a wildcamping tour of ten of the country’s National Parks. Here is Kevin’s report of a 14-day, 1,675km slog around Britain’s most beautiful locations…

Kevin Presland, aged 56, and Richard Etches, 57, are both members of South Devon CTC. Richard is a relative newcomer to longdistance cycling, completing three SRs in preparation for his PBP. He has also ridden regular tours in France and Spain. Kevin, whose European 5000km ride was featured in a recent edition of Arrivée, has ridden seven SR series, LEL and PBP. He’s led many European cycle tours over the last ten years.

THE ORIGINAL IDEA was to head for in Europe in 2020 – to ride 5,000km across the continent. With the route worked out, flights booked and preparations in place, the realisation dawned early in the year that the rising tide of illness meant there would be no European adventure this year.

As the first lockdown eased, giving way to greater cycling freedom, the hope grew that there could be a home-grown tour on the cards. A new plan was born – to visit all the National Parks of England and Wales. Consulting the map, it became clear that the distance was too great for a fortnight trip, so the three newest National Parks (Norfolk and Suffolk Broads, the New Forest and the South Downs) were dropped. We would concentrate on the original ten parks.

While planning the route daily news bulletins were crammed with stories of fully-booked hotels. It was clear the only way to make the trip work was to rediscover wild camping by bike – something I’d not tackled for 25-years. After putting the word around I was delighted when local CTC colleague and PBP veteran Richard Etches accepted the challenge.

NORTH YORK MOORS

We headed out from Newton Abbot Station on 8 August for our five-hour train trip, arriving in York a little after lunch, with just a short 55km ride planned. In light headwinds and warm sunshine we headed north into an agricultural landscape, pleased to be leaving the traffic behind. Then we hit the first range of hills – a real shock, especially with the weight of the camping kit.

We arrived at our first national park at Kirkbymoorside – the North York Moors. The inadequacy of my route-planning was demonstrated as we descended on to a dirt track and gravelly ascent toward Hutton-le-Hole. We found the Lion Inn and set up on a small wild camping ground behind it. Sadly the pub was at capacity for dining so we had to sit outside in the chill air to eat. The beer was good though!

Overnight the wind buffeted our

tents, but our pegs held fast. Wild camping suits an early start. We made our way into the low cloud of the morning at 7am. Over the summit of Ledging Hill at 420 metres altitude, then some sharp undulations of up to 20 per cent gradient over Kildale Moor before finding valley roads out of the National Park and to breakfast at Stokesly after 25km. Tailwinds helped our pace around the south of Darlington, before hitting fast A-roads west to Barnard Castle.

We had lunch then headed into The North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) – a glorious expansive open moorland, but with many big ascents. Our first climb was over the 500m Bolihope Common a pleasant gradient and traffic-free. After a cuppa at Stanhope we stumbled upon an old stone arch. It was actually an old horizontal smelting flue. In days gone by, children would be sent down the flues to scrape the lead deposits. Makes you wonder how they survived to adulthood.

We found a camping spot on Hunstantonworth Moor in among the purple heather and soft tufty grass. A great, uninhabited panorama, sheltered from the easterly wind, with grouse chattering in the distance, but after 135km the overnight avian conversation did not disturb my slumbers. The view was concealed in the morning by a dense mist. This left a heavy dew on the soft and deep undergrowth, so we began the day with wet feet.

We made 30km to Hexham for breakfast as we headed north. Our route was hampered by roadworks on the A69, then we missed a turn and faced a narrow descent followed by a rise on rough ground into Acomb.

NORTHUMBERLAND

Good fast roads had us back on our way past Colleford and Hadrian’s Wall and into Northumberland National Park just before Bellingham. Provisions bought we headed on to the first picnic spot on the Kielder Reservoir for lunch, and a chance to lay out our damp camping gear in the now blazing heat of day. We were lucky though – down south the temperatures had soared, to be followed by violent storms. Progress remained fast around the Kielder, up and over the top of the pass to cross the border into Scotland. It was to be no more than a short foray north of the border, but long enough to enjoy an afternoon tea with a cooling strawberry slush in Newcastleton.

We took to lumpy lanes back into England, rising to gain glorious views over the Solway Firth, then a long descent into Carlisle after a 153km day.

Our plan was to stay in a hotel every three days to wash and dry gear. The Crown and Sceptre in the town square accommodated us. It was quiet, with most pubs closed – the one we found had no ale! Fortunately, there was a restaurant open. After our days in remote country this was a stark reminder of the impact of Covid. Sadly, our night’s sleep was disturbed by a fire alarm, not once but twice.

THE LAKE DISTRICT

An 8am start, and our lanes westward were clean and fast, and off to our left the magnificent skyline of Skiddaw. We descended into the land of the superlatives at Bassenthwaite Lake, and our third National Park – The Lake District. Our route through the Lakes followed side roads where possible, the

highlights being the Castlerigg Stone Circle and the road around the west of Lake Thirlmere with lunch on the beach looking up at Helvellyn.

We left busy Grasmere and enjoyed quieter roads through Skelwith Bridge for afternoon tea, then on through a bustling Hawkshead, and an unexpectedly steep country road at 25 per cent gradient to the south end of the lake – possibly the hardest hill of the trip. We made it over the final lumps then on to the ferry crossing to Bowness.

A shorter day at 107km, so we had time in hand before hunting for a campsite. We whiled away the evening in a pub garden, and headed on our way with low light on the edge of Brant Fell to set-up camp. It had been too late to climb on to the fell in the evening, so instead we got up on to the viewpoint before sunrise where we enjoyed the layered cloud over Lake Windermere below.

YORKSHIRE DALES

We made the 32km to Kendall via a lumpy B-road by 8am for breakfast. Sadly we were there before the cafes opened, so filled our time with some overdue bike fettling. We were soon into our fourth National Park – the Yorkshire Dales, and for me the best part of the trip.

Our route into the Dales was via Barbondale, a majestic valley, the road bounded by charming stone walls. We pressed on over the pass to drop down to Dentdale. The shaded river offered glorious respite from the heat of the day. We enjoyed the moment but when we came out from the tree canopy were surprised to see storm clouds gathering. We tried to outrun the rain, and reached Hawes, hiding under an arch for a dry lunch.

The gradient of Sleddale tested our climbing prowess to the limit. This was another contender for hardest of the trip. The saving grace of this climb was the gorgeous scenery – though some tree cover would have offered relief from the intense heat.

We reached the top to join Wharfe Dale and a downhill 40km. Heavy clouds formed once more but we got to Kettlewell for cold fare, then on to Grassington for the night’s stop. We camped at a lovely site and took a swim by Linton Falls, followed by a pub meal in the charming old town. There were times on this trip when we felt like tourists. We had accrued 116km for the day.

The sixth day was monstrously hilly, criss-crossing the Pennines and generally avoiding the busy valley roads. Our first crossing took us from Broughton to Colne. We were very aware that we were entering areas where Covid was at its highest, so were extra cautious with hand sanitising, masking up, and selecting places to stop.

The mountain road to Hebden Bridge was fabulous, though did not lack in contour crunching. After lunch beside the canal in the town we followed the towpath east to Luddenden where we picked up Route 68, a steep, merciless road. When we reached the crossing of the M62 we found the road was closed. The unhelpful sign for cyclists stated “Please find another route”. It was a huge detour, off the moor and back up again to the next crossing, then Richard spotted a couple of cyclists on a parallel road. We checked it out, and yes, there was an underpass. It was with huge relief that we finally dropped into Holmfirth for supper and a couple of beers, then up the 300m to a camping spot on Holm Moor, right at the northern tip of the Peak District National Park. This had been our toughest day yet at 113km, but with 2,250m of climbing.

Munsall head, now how do you get down to the cycle path? Peak District PEAK DISTRICT

The undulations on the western edge of the Peak District were not as wearing as those endured the previous day, but we were glad to descend to Ladybower Reservoir, and remain on valley roads through Hope to Castleton. With some 42km behind us we were ready for the giant breakfast that was served up.

Another long climb awaited, it literally wound its way around the giant hole that had been quarried for the Hope cement works.

Lunch at Monsall Head, then on to the trail, only how do you find it? We went the wrong way off the hill, toward Millers Dale, but no way across to the trail. If only I’d known that there was a tunnel under Monsall Head to join the trail from the opposite side. A load of pushing and carrying of bikes had us eventually joining the trail.

Another route-planning glitch meant that our way south was a steep field, so we joined the unpleasantly busy A6 before ascending Cowdale and across the hilltops to Allgreave. We’d decided on having another campsite night, but found that all were closed, full, or not accepting tents. We settled down to eat at a local pub, after which we were directed to a nearby recreation ground. We left early next day and arrived in Macclesfield by 5.50am.

SNOWDONIA

The early start meant we could use main roads with little traffic. Once over the M6 at Holmes Chapel we rode past Beeston Castle, dramatic on both approach and departure, and lunch at 100km at Hope Church. We’d arrived in Wales!

Then the hills started. First past Mold, then up into the dramatic Clynwidian range. We reached the pleasant town of Ruthin where there was time for a leisurely curry and beers, then up to the Clocaenog Forest for our wild camp pitch at the end of our 136km day.

The plan for day nine was to rest at a friend’s place in Snowdonia. The only flaw in the plan being the 75km distance to ride. We used the quiet of morning to navigate the normally busy A5 to Capel Curig, and breakfast at Betws-y-coed.

We’d had good fortune avoiding the thunderstorms affecting the southern half of the UK, but our arrival in Wales coincided with the arrival of more challenging weather. We weren’t able to see Snowdon over the pass. Then after Beddgelert we had our first proper rain, so were grateful for the short day and access to a washing machine, allowing a rest and nice clean start in the morning.

It was a bright start on the next day, through Harlech and its views of the castle and Ceredigion Bay, then the rain swept in from the Irish Sea. It was only to get worse. Fortunately, cafes were available in Barmouth so we took our time failing to either warm up or dry out, then took to walking over a windswept and wet Barmouth Rail Bridge.

The A487 is a road I have never ridden – now I know why it’s avoided by cyclists, given the heavy traffic and narrow carriageway. The darkening skies foretold showers, and we pulled into a bus shelter, thinking it would blow over quickly but it turned into an almighty, monsoon. We sat it out then headed into Machynlleth for lunch, but the rain never really stopped as we rode to Aberystwyth for afternoon tea.

We finally rolled into Aberaeron at 6pm after 136km but couldn’t find any hotel with vacancies, so resorted to a wet night under canvas on the town camp site.

On loading the bike in the morning, I discovered two broken spokes in the rear wheel, so made for Abaereron Cycle Works. I was fitted in first and got the rear wheel sorted. Perhaps fate was back on our side? We left town in sunshine feeling far happier, albeit rather late for us at 9.30. An alternative A487 avoidance route was devised on higher ground inland. This didn’t however avoid the torrential showers, and in one of these I missed an intended right turn. Not only did the resulting detour add distance it added a messy descent into the deep Cerdir valley, and a taxing climb out, then a drop down into Newcastle Emlyn for a healthy lunch.

PEMBROKESHIRE COAST

Climbing was on the agenda for the long haul to the majestic Preseli Hills and into the Pembrokeshire National Park. From the top I had envisaged a nice fast run into Carmarthen, and it started well, but was soon interrupted by no less than nine river valleys, each with steep climbs. On arriving in the we found nearly all accommodation was fully booked, but thankfully we got into the rather well appointed Spilman Hotel and adorned the room with drying tents and sleeping bags. Another tough day completed with 119km and just shy of 2000 m of climbing.

The next day a routing error took us on to a private road through Golden Grove Park. We weren’t keen to backtrack and got through without challenge, then sped into Llandeilo for a café as the rain began to fall. We were on the threshold of The Brecon Beacons National Park and took the route through Llandduesant and on to the mountain road to Sennybridge. We stopped for lunch in the shelter of a church porch, which proved unnecessary as the sun came out and remained for the afternoon.

BRECON BEACONS

The little lane north of the busy A40 proved to be quite lumpy, but we recharged our batteries at Brecon before heading on to Crickhowell via the Taffi Trail and a fast B-road concluding the mere 101km for the day. Following a hearty meal, we set our tents under a tree in the park just in time to shelter from heavy rain.

The next morning we arrived in Abergavenny for breakfast. The sunlight caught the mountain peaks and set a reddening horizon before us. We were now on familiar territory but at Usk I was tempted by an alternative route to Chepstow, following route 42. It’s clear why this is not used as the Audax route. Although pleasant in places, it involves steep ascents and messy roads.

EXMOOR

By now the wind had swung to the south, making the crossing the Severn Bridge quite a challenge. We’d completed the 56km ride to England by 9.30am. The cycle route to Avonmouth had been messed with, and we found ourselves joining the entirely unpleasant A403 into the village for our morning coffee stop.

The next challenge was to find the Avon cycle bridge. We then headed out via Clevedon and then on to the Strawberry Line for the tunnel through the ridge of the Mendip Hills AONB. It was a tough ride over the levels with an incessant headwind, but at least we were dry and now well ahead of our schedule.

We carried on into Bridgwater for afternoon tea, and then over the Quantocks. From the summit we were afforded fine views of the Severn Estuary and distant views across much of the days

cycling. We descended to Bishops Lydiard where we camped at a fowl small holding on the edge of Exmoor National Park, all manner of feathered creatures – an early awakening seemed inevitable. We’d made 161km despite the headwind, so decided we’d avoid the extra Dartmoor loop, but get home that day, having been so beaten up by the weather.

The night was to bring high winds, which did not abate – 20mph with 40mph gusts over the high ground, continuing for much of the day, and largely against us.

For our final day we had a long B-road climb on to the Brendon Hills. Once on the ridge with the great beech hedges protecting us from the wind, we made good to Exford for coffee. The protection thereafter had gone, so a slow ride to Simonsbath, and then into the wind over the high ridge to South Molton.

DARTMOOR

All was pretty straight forwards across Mid-Devon to Whiddon Down, apart from the mess of a jammed chain, and then a moment to savour as we rolled at tenth and final National Park, our very own Dartmoor and on down the Wray Valley to a triumphant arrival at home.

The total distance in the 14 days had been just over 1,675km, and the total climb attained 22,480m. It had been an amazing venture to directly link all of these wonderful landscapes into a single ride, together with the additional challenge of wild camping.

● The concept for this ride is now being developed into a 1600km, or an Imperial 1000 Audax that could also be ridden as an SR series or a consecutive series of 200km rides, so look out for it in the Permanents Calendar.